Re: [RBW] Digest for rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com - 25 Messages in 9 Topics

2010-09-13 Thread fknel



Sent from my iPod

On Sep 13, 2010, at 1:29 AM, rbw-owners-bunch+nore...@googlegroups.com  
wrote:



  Today's Topic Summary
Group: http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch/topics

Y a CD? [7 Updates]
how to measure Nitto model 136AA [1 Update]
Sackville Medium for Camping WAS Re: FS: Sackville medium, reduced  
price [6 Updates]

My new Rodeo [4 Updates]
Plethora of Rivendell [2 Updates]
B17 vs Team Pro... any direct comparison wisdom? [2 Updates]
FS: 57cm Bleriot [1 Update]
Fargo versus Bombadil versus Hunq versus Atlantis [1 Update]
double top tube working bike [1 Update]
 Topic: Y a CD?
MichaelH  Sep 12 05:55PM -0700 ^

> Do you find yourself in the 44 most of the time on flatter terrain?
> It seems like you would rarely use the 30t ring except climbing.

Yes, I am in the 44 most of the time, and do far fewer front end
shifts. But surprisingly I often find myself spinning lower gears on
this set up than I do on a triple, because they are so much easier to
get to. Vermont has very rolling terrain and I can often bounce over
the top of short hills without having to go down to the 30; which I
can't do with a 39 or often even a 34.


> is more cross chaining as well. The triples do shift slower with the
> long cage dérailleur. Seems like you have to choose what works best
> for each of us. I use a 50-40-28 Campy triple with a 11-30 cassette.


I use to think that, but I have found that I can easily spin a 44/11
(which equals a 52/13) up into the mid 30mph range and from there it
is always more advantageous to go into a tuck and reduce the co-
efficient of drag. Jan Hein ran some wind tunnel test, which were
published in BQ, showing that over 28mph the added energy of pedaling
was almost entirely off set by the added wind resistance and you will
actually gain speed faster in a tuck. I have found the threshold to
feel more like 31 or 32. The bigger gear may offer some small
advantage at the very bottom of hills, when you try to maintain
momentum, but it seems like a very little advantage compared to the
disadvantage of a triple. I rode a 50-40-30 for quite a while and
liked it fine, but this is better.

A 53/12 is a sprinting gear and I just don't race guys to the next
sign post to even think about it.


stevep33  Sep 12 05:55PM -0700 ^

Pick the gearing that works best most of the time, and don't fret
about the rest. Running 46T/30T compact with 12-27 gives all the
gears and shifting patterns I need. Maybe not enough gear inches to
pedal down a ridiculously fast downhill, but then maybe it's time to
coast and enjoy the ride.



charlie  Sep 12 07:19PM -0700 ^

This makes a bunch of sense unless you live in hilly country and/or
are old and fat as I am. My own recent change (which I am excited
about) has been to use a mountain triple 44x32x22 with a 12-32 seven
speed. There are some climbs in my area where I do use the 22 tooth
front ring in order to save my knees. I do find myself running the 16
and 14 tooth cog quite often in the 44 tooth chain ring on flat ground
and may go back to my Sugino crank for that reason. I rarely pedal the
downhills much anymore as I cannot keep up with my coasting speed
which has been right around 50 mph on two occasions but usually only
in the mid thirties. I thought about going to a 46x30 but would have
to couple that with one of the 34 or 36 max tooth nine speed cog sets
to get my wall climber gear. I did think about building a closer ratio
triple on the large rings with a tiny inner ring for a bailout gear in
order to stay on top of the gears better but I spent a solid year
single speeding (actually a two speed) and I learned to vary my
cadence more and actually slow down a little and relax on the flats
and downhills saving my legs for specific climbs that I could make
without walking.
I wanted to build my current geared bike for any terrain, when I felt
sick or was tired out at the end of a long commute. So far its been
fine enough and has actually allowed me to take some routes that I
have avoided previously due to the steep climbs.



charlie  Sep 12 07:23PM -0700 ^

Nice looking setup and I agree about buying American when possible.



charlie  Sep 12 07:29PM -0700 ^

I also find that I can stay in my 44 ring and ride over many of the
rollers in my area. Perhaps I am experiencing a similar thing due to
the fact that I am usually only using the 44 and 32 rings and only use
the 22 when I really need it. I'm only two teeth off from your compact
double so perhaps I could go that route in the future..h!



Michael_S  Sep 12 08:34PM -0700 ^

I like to go fast when I'm in the mood! We have one ride that has a
gradual 10 mile long downhill that follows a nice creek. It's fun to
push a big gear and go. Even on Jack Browns. Some of us on Rivendells
like to motor and some just cruise... for each his own.

~Mike~



rob markwardt  Sep 12 10:14PM -0700 ^

Talk about timing! I received one of the new VO 50.4  doubles (46/30)
this past week, installed it on my Rambou

[RBW] Re: FS: Misc: TA tools, Suntour, Tektro, Trek TX500 Frame

2010-09-13 Thread Marty
Tektro levers, seatpost and derailleurs have been spoken for. Thanks!

Marty


On Sep 12, 1:54 pm, Marty  wrote:
> In addition to the Trek "resto-rod" TX500 frame, I have a few things
> to part out:
>
> Trek 64cm TX500 frame, fork, HS and custom Blackburn rando rack. New
> paint. Paul braze-on mounts. $850 shipped.
>
> Suntour Superbe Pro levers - new (mounted once) with diacomp hoods
> modified for non-aero. $15 shipped.
>
> Vintage TA tool kit + extra TA tools. Amazing! $125 shipped.
>
>
> Photos here:  http://tinyurl.com/2b4aq6j
>
> Reply or ask questions off line. Combo offers welcome. Free shipping
> to lower 48 only please.
>
> Marty

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[RBW] Re: Plethora of Rivendell

2010-09-13 Thread EricP
Oops!  Tim - I meant you and your custom.  Not Dan.  I'd like to decry
it for being tired.  But, naw.  It's just bad memory for names.

Just uploaded a few photos.  http://tinyurl.com/5vnfmm

Eric Platt
St. Paul, MN



On Sep 12, 10:29 pm, Tim McNamara  wrote:
> On Sep 12, 2010, at 7:55 PM, EricP wrote:
>
> > Spent the weekend doing two different group rides.  The Jesse James
> > Bike Tour from Northfield, MN on Saturday and the St. Paul Bike
> > Classic today.  Besides my Sam Hillborne, saw, and spoke to, an
> > Atlantis owner on the Jesse James.  Weather was good, but for a decent
> > west wind.  Glad only rode the metric century.  Was pretty tired by
> > the time I got home.
>
> > Today, though, was different, bike-wise.  Besides my Hilborne, saw a
> > co-worker on her Bleriot.  At the start, saw list member Dan and his
> > custom.  Also spoke to an owner of a yellow Ram.  Then saw a smaller
> > blue Ram.  And another Atlantis.  Different one than yesterday.
> > Different fenders.  Weather was still nice today, although a bit of
> > wind.  The route is more in the city, so less effect, IMO.
>
> > Seven Rivendell bikes in two days.  Not bad for the middle of nowhere.
>
> My All-Rounder was on the Classic, too.

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[RBW] Re: Y a CD?

2010-09-13 Thread MichaelH
Charlie, glad you are OK.  I hate it when stuff like that happens.  I
think many, many drivers consistently underestimate the speed of
cyclist, even when we are just cruising along at 17 mph.   I regularly
experience drivers passing me on mountain roads and then hitting their
brakes when they are going way too fast for the road.   I remember
coming down a long hill in Gaspe last year.  I was doing 50 MPH in a
50 KPH speed zone when a guy passed me, swerved back into the lane and
immediately slammed on his brakes.  I guess he suddenly realized he
was at 2x the speed limit.  This usually calls for quick action and
then prayer, "Dear God whack this guy up side the head ur make
that Father forgive them for they no not what they do."

I'm convinced that bigger gears do not make us go faster.  A bigger
gear can get you up to speed faster, but it wont increase your maximum
speed.  I'm going just as fast on m 48/12 and 44/11 as I did on my
53/12.  I see when I ride with my 38 year old son, who is obviously
much stronger and faster than me, that he will jump ahead of me
quickly at the top of mountain  downhills, and open a gap of 100 - 150
meters, but then my speed will match his the rest of the way down.  Of
course, there is no gear that will help me stay with him on the next
uphill slog.  But he is kind and waits for me; perhaps he remembers
all the years I did the same for him.

Sitting here, I am remembering the turning point.  He was 14 and we
were climbing White Face Mountain out of Wilmington NY together, or
sort of together.  This is a very tough climb with 3+ miles of
unrelenting 12% grade.  About 3/4 of the way up, after he had long
since dropped me, he came riding back down the mountain and asked,
very solicitously,  "Dad, are you OK."  I knew then there was no point
in getting my testosterone in a knot.

Michael

On Sep 13, 2:14 am, charlie  wrote:
> Yea the 50 mph thing was quite scary actually. I did 49 mph on my
> recumbent downhill and the other was on my old Raleigh going down a
> long steep hill in a tight aero tuck. The scary part.a pickup
> truck started pulling out at the bottom of the hill and my brakes just
> faded away..fortunately I had slowed enough as he pulled across
> but for a hairy minute, I was a little stressed out. I don't think the
> driver saw me or figured I wasn't going that fast but I actually
> remember pondering about a small drag chute for long mountain descents
> on the way home then dismissed the idea and resolved to not try super
> fast descents again. I now sit up and feather my brakes.  The thought
> if hitting pavement wearing shorts and a tee shirt doesn't sound too
> appealing. Even 35 mph feels fast now plus I just don't think bicycles
> are designed to go that fast or brake well at higher speeds. I can't
> imagine doing 80+ mph in a streamliner, record or not wow !
>
> On Sep 12, 10:14 pm, rob markwardt  wrote:
>
>
>
> > Talk about timing!  I received one of the new VO 50.4  doubles (46/30)
> > this past week, installed it on my Rambouillet yesterday, and took it
> > on it's maiden voyage this morning.  It replaced a Sugino 48/36/26 and
> > is mated to an 11-32 9 speed freewheel (gear inches 25-111).  I
> > switched mainly because I wanted to lighten up the bike a little, and
> > I think they look cool.
> >    First off they really do look cool.  Nice classic design, high
> > polish, logos are visible but only up close. Has all the pins and
> > ramps of modern rings, feels slightly lighter than  a set of Sugino PX
> > cranks I just bought from a list member ( same sized rings). The only
> > negative is the dust caps.  They have a huge hexagon cutout (I don't
> > think the hole would really keep any dust out and I don't have a
> > wrench that size...I'm going capless). Installation was a breeze (also
> > put a new VO bottom bracket) I didn't touch the derailleurs, shifters,
> > etc and it all lined up and amazingly works just fine.
> >   Took it out for a ninety minute ride this morning traversing Queen
> > Anne hill in downtown Seattle. Queen Anne has every type of hill
> > imaginablelong slow ones, incredibly steep ones, nice easy grades
> > on top and incredibly fast decents.  I tried them all today and the
> > new double performed quite well.  I lost a few gear inches with the
> > new crank but was still able to grind up the big climbs without too
> > much difficulty.  If I ever need to replace the small ring I'd
> > consider a 28.   Shifting to the small ring in preperation for a steep
> > climb was easy and there didn't seem to be any momentum lost in the
> > switch.  A couple times I found myself in the 46 - 32 combo and was
> > ready to switch to a lower gear in back when I realized there was
> > anymore back there.  Going down the big descents I had all the gears I
> > need (disclaimer I have no desire to ever hit 50mph on a bike...45 is
> > fine thank you) and in reality I almost never touch the 11 tooth
> > cog.   It felt really good 

[RBW] Re: My new Rodeo

2010-09-13 Thread Leslie

Dave,

Gorgeous bike.   Congrats!




Anne,

I'm not an expert bicycle historian or anything, but my perspective on
it is that since the traditional 'road bike' had a double crank, like
a 40/50 pair or something around that (like a 39/53);  and mountain
bikes are where I first came into triples in the front for that granny
gear... which made so much sense for a touring bike that needs to lift
loads up hills... but the triple does add some weight... and, if
someone is being competitive, then someone that 'needs' a triple isn't
going to be competitive against someone strong enough to do it on a
road double, so, I think there was disparaging of triples in the road
bike circles.

Of course, some folks realized they could use a lower gear, but wanted
to stick w/ a double instead of a triple, so the compact double came
about... one can easily argue that it makes sense for cyclocross,
being lighter since it's a double, but allows for that climbing gear
if needed; but I think a lot of its attraction comes from those who
want to continue to hold off of going w/ a triple, wanted to stick w/
a double for their own reasons, but could have used a triple.



Eric and Bob,

I built my Ram w/ the rear being a XT 11-32 cassette, and XT long-cage
derailler, to have a wider range; in the front, I went with a Dura-Ace
crank, but went w/ a triple, so that I could have that climbing gear;
that way I have a 30/39/53, a good wide range.   Most of the time on
the flats, I'm trying to run 53/12, but can drop back whenever needed
(which, is often).   Here in East Tennessee, we do have some hills, so
I find that I have to make use of the range of my gears...  I do try
to use my 39 gear when I need to climb, so I'm often on my 39/32
combo... but, there are a few around here that I just need a bit more,
and am glad of being able to drop to the 30/32 for that last umph...
I try not to, I'm trying to get stronger and not use it, but, it's
better to use it than not have it, for me.

Running the cassette and crank that I am, some things to consider are
chain length and wrap.  Of course, if I'm on the 53, I should be in
the 11/12 gears in the rear, and if I'm on the 30, I should be on the
28/32 gears... but, if I happened to go w/ a 53/32 combo, then I'd
better have a long enough chain, so I don't break it.  But conversely,
if I went w/ a 30/11 combo, the chain would be hanging slack and
falling off if you don't have a long-cage derailler to take up the
slack.If I didn't use a long-cage, I could shorten the chain up a
bit to try to get the 30/11 combo to function, but, that risks being
too short,  the 53/32 combo to wreck the chain.   Of course, *don't*
use a 53/32 or a 30/11 pairing, is the correct answer, but, I did
adjust mine so it would function in the full range so I wouldn't have
a problem if I mis-shifted or something that put in in one of those
pairings. And, while I don't ever come close to using the 30/11
pairing since I try to stay off the 30,  I do try to stay on my 50,
and often will end up closer to the 53/32 pairing before I go to the
39... I need to go to the 39 earlier, perhaps, but, the 53/32 works,
on mine, but, I don't recommend it.

FWIW

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Re: [RBW] Re: My new Rodeo

2010-09-13 Thread PATRICK MOORE
I've found that a shorter derailleur hangar can sometimes prevent even
a long cage derailleur from climbing onto anything bigger than about a
28. I used the Ultegra (short cage) on a mountain bike with a long
hangar.

Perhaps mtb rds have longer bodies to clear bigger cogs?

On Sun, Sep 12, 2010 at 8:29 PM, JoelMatthews  wrote:
>> I've run a short cage Ultegra rd on a mountain bike (long hangar) with
>> a 14-32 7 sp and it worked fine until the drivetrain got cluttered
>> with sand.
>
> Sorry to hijack the thread - although the answer here may help the OP
> - but I wonder if the Patricks have any notion what is going on with
> my recent restore.  I saved a Raleigh Super Course from ignominious
> fixiedom.  I have a 46-36-26 up front which I wanted to pair with a 13
> -30 7 in the back.  The Ultegra long cage would not hit the 30.
> Switched to a 14-28 which works very well.
>
> Could it be the location of the der hanger?  Perhaps the chainstays
> are too long?
>
> On Sep 12, 7:46 pm, PATRICK MOORE  wrote:
>> On Sun, Sep 12, 2010 at 3:52 PM, Patrick in VT  wrote:
>>
>> > and FWIW, I've had no issues using a short cage derailer with a 30t in
>> > the back.  I'm sure a 32 would work too.
>>
>> I've run a short cage Ultegra rd on a mountain bike (long hangar) with
>> a 14-32 7 sp and it worked fine until the drivetrain got cluttered
>> with sand.
>
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-- 
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Albuquerque, NM
For professional resumes, contact
Patrick Moore, ACRW at resumespecialt...@gmail.com

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[RBW] D2R2

2010-09-13 Thread Patrick in VT
thought some folks on this list might enjoy some pics from the
Deerfield Dirt Road Randonee (aka D2R2) in Western, MA this year.

Lots of Rivs.  didn't get pics of all of them, but there was a custom,
at least 2 salukis, at least 2 AHHs, at least 3 Atlantises and at
least 3 Bleriots.  In addition to the Riv turnout, there was lots of
lugged steel to ogle, including two of J.P. Weigle's bicycles and
other top notch New England framebuilders.

The bikes, the ride itself, the people and the cause (Franklin Land
Trust) make D2R2 a special event.  I know it's a haul for some
folks . . . but if anyone is planning a little New England cycling
getaway, try to incorporate this ride.

Cheers,

http://www.flickr.com/photos/22267...@n02/sets/72157624784408522/

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[RBW] Re: Sackville Medium for Camping WAS Re: FS: Sackville medium, reduced price

2010-09-13 Thread Beth H
My only S24HO this year saw me take an upright Rivvy with a Nelson LF,
a sleeping bag and a thermorest pad to a friend's apple farm out in
Sandy (normally fairly private and not fond of visitors, she lets me
camp solo out there once a year and makes me breakfast so we can catch
up over waffles and coffee before I head home). It was in June, during
the break in the spring rains, and I felt confident enough to take
only that and a tarp, which I would've fashioned into a rough lean-to
(turned out I didn't need it). It all fit in the or lashed onto the
Nelson and a Hobo-styled handlebar bag up front.

The Sackville looks, frankly, gorgeous; but is more than I'm prepared
to spend on a saddlebag. --Beth

On Sep 12, 5:12 pm, Mike  wrote:
> I have a Sackville Medium SaddleSack and a Carradice Nelson LF and
> much prefer the SaddleSack. It packs stuff better and holds more
> stuff. Don't get me wrong, I love Carradice stuff  but SaddleSack is
> just a bit nicer and works fine without a support.

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[RBW] madison, wi

2010-09-13 Thread Seth Vidal
A while back I posted that I was going to madison, wi and asked for
suggestions of bike shops. I stopped in one of them yesterday to see
if we could rent a tandem. The shop was yellow jersey and I do not
think I could have been treated more rudely than there.

I asked about renting a tandem, they said they had a tandem for rent
but that we could not ride the tandem in the city.
when I asked why I was told that tandems were not safe for urban
biking that you cannot turn or brake quickly enough.

Considering that I ride a tandem with my stoker probably 3-4 days a
week in a city almost the identical size and density of madison I
found this claim... surprising. But if that was their policy I figured
I'd just move along.

so I asked - do you know of any other shops that rent tandems?

the response was: "I don't shop at any other bike shops" this was said
in the most derisive manner I have ever heard.

So, just in case anyone was curious - I do not think anyone not
wanting to be treated badly should go to that bike shop.


Curiously enough the experience I had there could not have been any
more opposite of the experience I've had at all of the rivendell
dealers and the people at rbwhq.

The folks at Mountain Sports Ltd in Bristol, VA could not have been
more helpful and friendly.
Jim Thill at Hiawatha was willing to put up with my silly-ass
questions via email and put together a set of cranks and salsa
crossing guard for me that I do so love.
Everyone I've ever spoken to at rbwhq has been helpful to the point of
making me think maybe I need to be a better person.

I like that.
Thanks to the rivendell folks and the dealers I've dealt with.

-sv

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[RBW] Re: D2R2

2010-09-13 Thread Michael_S
that is one awesome ride!  I gotta put that on my list. perfect ride
for a fat tired Rivendell.

~Mike~

On Sep 13, 7:08 am, Patrick in VT  wrote:
> thought some folks on this list might enjoy some pics from the
> Deerfield Dirt Road Randonee (aka D2R2) in Western, MA this year.
>
> Lots of Rivs.  didn't get pics of all of them, but there was a custom,
> at least 2 salukis, at least 2 AHHs, at least 3 Atlantises and at
> least 3 Bleriots.  In addition to the Riv turnout, there was lots of
> lugged steel to ogle, including two of J.P. Weigle's bicycles and
> other top notch New England framebuilders.
>
> The bikes, the ride itself, the people and the cause (Franklin Land
> Trust) make D2R2 a special event.  I know it's a haul for some
> folks . . . but if anyone is planning a little New England cycling
> getaway, try to incorporate this ride.
>
> Cheers,
>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/22267...@n02/sets/72157624784408522/

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[RBW] Re: Sackville Medium for Camping WAS Re: FS: Sackville medium, reduced price

2010-09-13 Thread Montclair BobbyB
General question for saddle bag users:

How does use of a saddlebag setup compare to using a rack and panniers
(which is what I have always used)?  I know there's a physics part,
where a seat bag fully-loaded is going to place the weight up higher,
versus panniers having the weight distributed lower on opposite sides
of the axle...

But in practical terms (aside from the aesthetics of a saddle bag),
what is the advantage of one over the other for, say a S24O trip?

Thanks,
BB

On Sep 13, 12:35 am, Rob Harrison  wrote:
> Thanks Stewart, Mike and Forrest, that is all immensely helpful. I'm  
> moving in the ultralight direction, so my gear is getting more compact  
> as well as getting lighter. A Sackville Medium and a Platrack could be  
> just the ticket for S24Os, and for credit card touring I substitute  
> the Lil' Loafer I got from Gino for the Platrack in front, sort of  
> like Mike's other setup.
>
> Rob in Seattle
>
> On Sep 12, 2010, at 1:10 PM, Stuart Fletcher wrote:
>
>
>
> > Rob, everyone:
>
> > On Sun, Sep 12, 2010 at 12:35, Rob Harrison   
> > wrote:
> >> Did you ever go camping with the Medium? If so, was it big enough?  
> >> If you
> >> fill it up, does it sag enough to require support, rack or bagman or
> >> similar?
>
> > I can't speak specifically to the SaddleSack Medium, but I camp with a
> > Carradice Nelson Longflap + a medium Wald basket and that works well
> > for me.  The capacity on the Carradice is quite similar to the medium
> > SaddleSack.  Here are the capacities in one place for perusal:
>
> > Peter White lists the capacity of a Nelson Longflap at 19.6 liters
> > (unclear if that's with the flap extended or not... I almost never
> > have to extend the flap for a summer overnight camping load).
>
> > The Rivendell site lists the capacity of the medium SaddleSack as:
> > "Not bulged: 18.6 liters; Bulged but not ridiculous: 23.2 liters; The
> > pocket adds about .82 liters".
>
> > So the capacities are in the same ballpark.  In fact it appears the
> > SaddleSack can hold a bit more than the Carradice.
>
> > I'm a light-ish packer(*), and how people pack can obviously vary
> > widely so this could be an apples-oranges comparison, but the basket +
> > Carradice combo has worked great for me on overnighters this summer,
> > and I don't see any reason the same setup couldn't go for 2 or 3
> > nights (or more).  If I didn't have the Carradice I would definitely
> > consider getting the medium sized SaddleSack with commuting AND
> > camping in mind.
>
> > Don't know if this data point will help you, but thought I'd chime in
> > with my experience.
>
> > Stuart Fletcher
> > Seattle, WA
>
> > *: For a bit more reference, my most current packing scheme has
> > sleeping bag up front in the basket (it's a Wiggy's that Rivendell
> > sells in a smaller stuffsack than comes w/ the bag), tent lashed to
> > top of Carradice (a Tarptent Contrail, so it's nice & small/light),
> > and sleeping pad under seat/in front of Bagman rack (Thermarest Neoair
> > -- anything bigger wouldn't fit there).  Small bag of personal stuff
> > goes in basket with sleeping bag and all else is in Carradice,
> > including a Trangia cooking kit w/ the large-ish (IMO) stand and
> > windscreen.  So bulk isn't as minimized as it could be, but some work
> > has gone toward that goal.  Hope this info helps.
>
> > --
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> > bu...@googlegroups.com.
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> > For more options, visit this group 
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> > .- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

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[RBW] Re: D2R2

2010-09-13 Thread cyclotour...@gmail.com
A ride for a country bike if there ever was one!

Was it as hot this year as last?  I remember reading about the heat
last year, and it sounded oppressive!

On Sep 13, 8:20 am, Michael_S  wrote:
> that is one awesome ride!  I gotta put that on my list. perfect ride
> for a fat tired Rivendell.
>
> ~Mike~
>
> On Sep 13, 7:08 am, Patrick in VT  wrote:
>
> > thought some folks on this list might enjoy some pics from the
> > Deerfield Dirt Road Randonee (aka D2R2) in Western, MA this year.
>
> > Lots of Rivs.  didn't get pics of all of them, but there was a custom,
> > at least 2 salukis, at least 2 AHHs, at least 3 Atlantises and at
> > least 3 Bleriots.  In addition to the Riv turnout, there was lots of
> > lugged steel to ogle, including two of J.P. Weigle's bicycles and
> > other top notch New England framebuilders.
>
> > The bikes, the ride itself, the people and the cause (Franklin Land
> > Trust) make D2R2 a special event.  I know it's a haul for some
> > folks . . . but if anyone is planning a little New England cycling
> > getaway, try to incorporate this ride.
>
> > Cheers,
>
> >http://www.flickr.com/photos/22267...@n02/sets/72157624784408522/

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Re: [RBW] how to measure Nitto model 136AA

2010-09-13 Thread CycloFiend
on 9/12/10 9:57 PM, Rene at valbu...@ix.netcom.com wrote:

> I need help. How do you measure the size of Nitto Randoneur model
> 136AA? When the size says 42, does it mean the width of the top or the
> flared drop? I read it somewhere but I forgot.

You should confirm that with whomever is doing the measuring.  Riv states
that they measure in this manner:

"All of our drop bars are measured the same way: Center of the curve to
center of the curve. The normal way is center of the end to center of the
end. We measure center of the curve to center of the curve because our drops
have a slight flare below the curve, and measuring the ends would give a
false impression of the width you'd actually feel. It's not complicated: If
you're a small woman, order a 41; medium woman or small guy, get a 44;
average guy, get the 46; big strong guy, the 48."

BUT! That doesn't mean it's a standard method...

- Jim "measure twice, order once."

-- 
Jim Edgar
cyclofi...@earthlink.net

Cyclofiend Bicycle Photo Galleries - http://www.cyclofiend.com
Current Classics - Cross Bikes
Singlespeed - Working Bikes

Gallery updates now appear here - http://cyclofiend.blogspot.com

"Then I sat up, wiped the water out of my eyes, and looked at my bike, and
just like that I knew it was dead"

-- Robert McCammon, "Boy's Life"

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Re: [RBW] D2R2

2010-09-13 Thread CycloFiend
on 9/13/10 7:08 AM, Patrick in VT at swing4...@gmail.com wrote:

> http://www.flickr.com/photos/22267...@n02/sets/72157624784408522/

Nice photos, Patrick.

Definitely a ride that's on my life list.

- J

-- 
Jim Edgar
cyclofi...@earthlink.net

Cyclofiend Bicycle Photo Galleries - http://www.cyclofiend.com
Current Classics - Cross Bikes
Singlespeed - Working Bikes

Gallery updates now appear here - http://cyclofiend.blogspot.com

"Maybe a bike, once discarded, pines away year after year for the first hand
that steered it, and as it grows old it dreams, in its bike way, of the
young roads."

-- Robert McCammon, "Boy's Life"

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[RBW] atlantis siting

2010-09-13 Thread Seth Vidal
In the square around the state capitol in madison, wi. Atlantis -
looked like a 53? maybe? with a green brooks saddle.

If you're on the list: we saw and waved at your bike. :)

-sv

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Re: [RBW] how to measure Nitto model 136AA

2010-09-13 Thread Rene Valbuena
Thanks.


-Original Message-
>From: CycloFiend 
>Sent: Sep 13, 2010 9:19 AM
>To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
>Subject: Re: [RBW] how to measure Nitto model 136AA
>
>on 9/12/10 9:57 PM, Rene at valbu...@ix.netcom.com wrote:
>
>> I need help. How do you measure the size of Nitto Randoneur model
>> 136AA? When the size says 42, does it mean the width of the top or the
>> flared drop? I read it somewhere but I forgot.
>
>You should confirm that with whomever is doing the measuring.  Riv states
>that they measure in this manner:
>
>"All of our drop bars are measured the same way: Center of the curve to
>center of the curve. The normal way is center of the end to center of the
>end. We measure center of the curve to center of the curve because our drops
>have a slight flare below the curve, and measuring the ends would give a
>false impression of the width you'd actually feel. It's not complicated: If
>you're a small woman, order a 41; medium woman or small guy, get a 44;
>average guy, get the 46; big strong guy, the 48."
>
>BUT! That doesn't mean it's a standard method...
>
>- Jim "measure twice, order once."
>
>-- 
>Jim Edgar
>cyclofi...@earthlink.net
>
>Cyclofiend Bicycle Photo Galleries - http://www.cyclofiend.com
>Current Classics - Cross Bikes
>Singlespeed - Working Bikes
>
>Gallery updates now appear here - http://cyclofiend.blogspot.com
>
>"Then I sat up, wiped the water out of my eyes, and looked at my bike, and
>just like that I knew it was dead"
>
>-- Robert McCammon, "Boy's Life"
>
>-- 
>You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW 
>Owners Bunch" group.
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>



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[RBW] Re: D2R2

2010-09-13 Thread Patrick in VT


On Sep 13, 12:17 pm, "cyclotour...@gmail.com" 
wrote:
> A ride for a country bike if there ever was one!

absolutely.  bike choice is all over the place on this ride - but,
nothing looks quite as right and at home on this ride as a fat tired
country bike a la rivendell, etc.

> Was it as hot this year as last?  I remember reading about the heat
> last year, and it sounded oppressive!

weather was cool and comfortable this year, which made the ride more
enjoyable for many, I'm sure.  A good friend and I went for a swim
along the ride - it was actually a bit chilly in the Deerfield River
and I don't think I broke a sweat all afternoon!

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[RBW] Mickelson Trail Trek?

2010-09-13 Thread Timothy Whalen
Hi all,

Anyone ever ridden the Mickelson Trail Trek in SD?  This is a ride of about
110 miles on a rail trail spread over three days and centered around Custer
that looks like fun.  I am thinking about doing it this weekend and
especially looking for other's experience regarding bike choice.  The
website describes the trail as surfaced in crushed limestone and recmmends a
mountain bike.  I wonder though whether a versatile Rivendell with wider
tires would not work just fine.  I am thinking either my Rodeo with 35's or
my QB with something a bit wider.

Thanks in advance,
Tim Whalen
Colorado Springs

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[RBW] Bike Shops in Santa Cruz

2010-09-13 Thread stevew
Hi all,

I am going to be riding the Surf City 600K brevet in Santa Cruz at the
end of the month and was wondering if anyone had recommendations for
bike shops in the area to check out.

Riv content = I am riding my Rambouillet.

Thanks!
Steve

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Re: [RBW] Mickelson Trail Trek?

2010-09-13 Thread J. Douglas Way

 Hey Tim-

Debbie and I rode the Trail Trek a couple of years ago.  I rode my 
Atlantis with 26 x 1.75" tires that are about 38 mm wide.  Deb rode her 
Heron with the same tires.  The hills are very mellow because they used 
to be railroad grades.  I never got into my triple the entire ride.  We 
had a grand time.


I bet your Roadeo with 35 mm tires would be ok.

Have fun,
Doug Way
Boulder, CO

On 9/13/10 12:16 PM, Timothy Whalen wrote:

Hi all,

Anyone ever ridden the Mickelson Trail Trek in SD?  This is a ride of 
about 110 miles on a rail trail spread over three days and centered 
around Custer that looks like fun.  I am thinking about doing it this 
weekend and especially looking for other's experience regarding bike 
choice.  The website describes the trail as surfaced in crushed 
limestone and recmmends a mountain bike.  I wonder though whether a 
versatile Rivendell with wider tires would not work just fine.  I am 
thinking either my Rodeo with 35's or my QB with something a bit wider.


Thanks in advance,
Tim Whalen
Colorado Springs
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***
J. Douglas Way, Professor
Chemical Engineering Dept., Colorado School of Mines
1500 Illinois Street, Golden, CO  80401-7887  USA
Phone: 303-273-3519  Fax:  303-273-3730  Email:  d...@mines.edu
http://chemeng.mines.edu/faculty/dway/
***

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[RBW] Re: double top tube working bike

2010-09-13 Thread jlvota
That guy's really using his head

On Sep 11, 11:33 am, "Rene Valbuena"  wrote:
> []
>
>  image001.jpg
> 58KViewDownload

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[RBW] Rambouillet on Colorado Springs, CO Craigslist

2010-09-13 Thread J. Douglas Way
 No connection with the seller.  Could be a great deal if it is a 
complete bike for $1200.  No frame size given in the ad.


Here's the link:

http://cosprings.craigslist.org/bik/1947392664.html

Doug Way
Boulder, CO

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***
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Chemical Engineering Dept., Colorado School of Mines
1500 Illinois Street, Golden, CO  80401-7887  USA
Phone: 303-273-3519  Fax:  303-273-3730  Email:  d...@mines.edu
http://chemeng.mines.edu/faculty/dway/
***

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Re: [RBW] Rambouillet on Colorado Springs, CO Craigslist

2010-09-13 Thread Jon Grant
Doug Way wrote:

No connection with the seller.  Could be a great deal if it is a
complete bike for $1200.  No frame size given in the ad.

Here's the link:
http://cosprings.craigslist.org/bik/1947392664.html

Doug Way
Boulder, CO

***

Carbon bars? Selling due to "getting old?" Sounds stolen.

--
Jon "Papa" Grant, who gets plenty of exercise jumping to conclusions, in
Austin, Texas


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Re: [RBW] Mickelson Trail Trek?

2010-09-13 Thread Steve Palincsar
On Mon, 2010-09-13 at 12:16 -0600, Timothy Whalen wrote:
> Hi all,
> 
> Anyone ever ridden the Mickelson Trail Trek in SD?  This is a ride of
> about 110 miles on a rail trail spread over three days and centered
> around Custer that looks like fun.  I am thinking about doing it this
> weekend and especially looking for other's experience regarding bike
> choice.  The website describes the trail as surfaced in crushed
> limestone and recmmends a mountain bike.  I wonder though whether a
> versatile Rivendell with wider tires would not work just fine.  I am
> thinking either my Rodeo with 35's or my QB with something a bit
> wider.

I was on a bike tour in the Black Hills a couple of years ago.  We ran
into the Trail Trek riders at one of the trail entry areas on our last
day.  We had a Saluki, a Bleriot and a Riv All-Rounder, all tires around
38mm, and we did just fine.



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Re: [RBW] Mickelson Trail Trek?

2010-09-13 Thread Steve Palincsar
On Mon, 2010-09-13 at 12:34 -0600, J. Douglas Way wrote:
> The hills are very mellow because they used 
> to be railroad grades. 

"Mellow," yes that's what I thought.  How tough could a 2-3% grade be?
Ha!  If you're from rolling country and your big hills are 0.6 miles
long, 6 miles of 3% grade on a crushed limestone gravel surface can be
very tiring indeed.  You can't stop pedaling for a second, as you come
to a complete halt and would just fall over.  No coasting, no rest.  

Here's what their web site says:  "A majority of the trail does not
exceed a 4% grade, but parts of the trail are considered strenuous.
Dumont is the highest point and the 19 mile stretch from Deadwood to
Dumont is the longest incline."  

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[RBW] Re: FS: Bridgestone MB-Zip + Dura Ace/ Shimano 600/ TA misc

2010-09-13 Thread Dave in Los Angeles

Do you still have the Zip? If so, can I get the st and tt measurements
please? What's the ballpark price you're looking for? I wouldn't know
where to start...

Thanks,

D

On Aug 31, 8:53 pm, Beardpapa  wrote:
> For Sale:
>
> 1.  Bridgestone MB-Zip (don't ride enough to justify keeping it). 1991
> small.  Comes with complete original group set. Make me an offer.
> 2.  Rear Derailleur - 9 Speed Dura Ace  - $50 shipped
> 3.  Cassette - 9 Speed Dura ace 12-23 - $60 shipped
> 4.  Bar Ends - 9 Speed Dura ace - $75 shipped
> 5.  Rear Derailleur - 9 Speed Ultegra Long Cage - $50
> 6.  Chainrings - TA Zephyr 50 + 34 - $90 Shipped
> 7.  Fenders - SKS P35 - $25 shipped
> 8.  Front Derailleur - Shimano 600 double - $15 shipped
> 9.  Cranks - Shimano 600 53x39 - $30 shipped

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[RBW] Re: Sackville Medium for Camping WAS Re: FS: Sackville medium, reduced price

2010-09-13 Thread Earl Grey
The way I see it (and i don't own a saddlebag bigger than a banana bag
[yet]), is that a saddlebag has the advantage of being there in case
you need it for impromptu shopping/adding of gear. I doubt too many of
us ride around with empty or near empty panniers unless we are
planning to pick something up along the way. On a short tour/s24o an
added benefit may be saving the weight of a rack,(plus perhaps the
fact that all the gear is already on the bike) but it seems to me that
the better weight distribution of panniers make up for that, plus the
ease with which they can be removed. Which leads  me to a question: do
you take your saddlebag off to load it for an s24o?

Gernot

On Sep 13, 7:19 pm, Montclair BobbyB 
wrote:
> General question for saddle bag users:
>
> How does use of a saddlebag setup compare to using a rack and panniers
> (which is what I have always used)?  I know there's a physics part,
> where a seat bag fully-loaded is going to place the weight up higher,
> versus panniers having the weight distributed lower on opposite sides
> of the axle...
>
> But in practical terms (aside from the aesthetics of a saddle bag),
> what is the advantage of one over the other for, say a S24O trip?
>
> Thanks,
> BB
>
> On Sep 13, 12:35 am, Rob Harrison  wrote:
>
>
>
> > Thanks Stewart, Mike and Forrest, that is all immensely helpful. I'm  
> > moving in the ultralight direction, so my gear is getting more compact  
> > as well as getting lighter. A Sackville Medium and a Platrack could be  
> > just the ticket for S24Os, and for credit card touring I substitute  
> > the Lil' Loafer I got from Gino for the Platrack in front, sort of  
> > like Mike's other setup.
>
> > Rob in Seattle
>
> > On Sep 12, 2010, at 1:10 PM, Stuart Fletcher wrote:
>
> > > Rob, everyone:
>
> > > On Sun, Sep 12, 2010 at 12:35, Rob Harrison   
> > > wrote:
> > >> Did you ever go camping with the Medium? If so, was it big enough?  
> > >> If you
> > >> fill it up, does it sag enough to require support, rack or bagman or
> > >> similar?
>
> > > I can't speak specifically to the SaddleSack Medium, but I camp with a
> > > Carradice Nelson Longflap + a medium Wald basket and that works well
> > > for me.  The capacity on the Carradice is quite similar to the medium
> > > SaddleSack.  Here are the capacities in one place for perusal:
>
> > > Peter White lists the capacity of a Nelson Longflap at 19.6 liters
> > > (unclear if that's with the flap extended or not... I almost never
> > > have to extend the flap for a summer overnight camping load).
>
> > > The Rivendell site lists the capacity of the medium SaddleSack as:
> > > "Not bulged: 18.6 liters; Bulged but not ridiculous: 23.2 liters; The
> > > pocket adds about .82 liters".
>
> > > So the capacities are in the same ballpark.  In fact it appears the
> > > SaddleSack can hold a bit more than the Carradice.
>
> > > I'm a light-ish packer(*), and how people pack can obviously vary
> > > widely so this could be an apples-oranges comparison, but the basket +
> > > Carradice combo has worked great for me on overnighters this summer,
> > > and I don't see any reason the same setup couldn't go for 2 or 3
> > > nights (or more).  If I didn't have the Carradice I would definitely
> > > consider getting the medium sized SaddleSack with commuting AND
> > > camping in mind.
>
> > > Don't know if this data point will help you, but thought I'd chime in
> > > with my experience.
>
> > > Stuart Fletcher
> > > Seattle, WA
>
> > > *: For a bit more reference, my most current packing scheme has
> > > sleeping bag up front in the basket (it's a Wiggy's that Rivendell
> > > sells in a smaller stuffsack than comes w/ the bag), tent lashed to
> > > top of Carradice (a Tarptent Contrail, so it's nice & small/light),
> > > and sleeping pad under seat/in front of Bagman rack (Thermarest Neoair
> > > -- anything bigger wouldn't fit there).  Small bag of personal stuff
> > > goes in basket with sleeping bag and all else is in Carradice,
> > > including a Trangia cooking kit w/ the large-ish (IMO) stand and
> > > windscreen.  So bulk isn't as minimized as it could be, but some work
> > > has gone toward that goal.  Hope this info helps.
>
> > > --
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> > > For more options, visit this group 
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>
> > - Show quoted text -

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[RBW] Tahoe Epic 2010 - a set on Flickr

2010-09-13 Thread Eric Norris
 My Riv-enabled weekend ride: just a shade under 300 miles with 18,000 feet of 
climbing from Davis to Lake Tahoe and back, all aboard my Riv Road Standard:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/35176...@n03/sets/72157624947289984/ 

Captions for the photos coming soon.

--Eric
campyonly...@me.com
www.campyonly.com
www.wheelsnorth.org

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[RBW] Tent suggestions

2010-09-13 Thread nathan spindel
What's your favorite two-person tent for bike camping? I'm looking for
a tent that's somewhat light (< 5 lbs?), warm enough for most
California spring/summer/fall nights, and sets up easily.

-nathan

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Re: [RBW] Mickelson Trail Trek?

2010-09-13 Thread Steve Palincsar
On Mon, 2010-09-13 at 15:12 -0400, Steve Palincsar wrote:

> I was on a bike tour in the Black Hills a couple of years ago.  We ran
> into the Trail Trek riders at one of the trail entry areas on our last
> day.  We had a Saluki, a Bleriot and a Riv All-Rounder, all tires around
> 38mm, and we did just fine.

Correction: the bikes were a Bleriod, a Riv All-Rounder and a Kogswell
P/R.  Sorry for the mental lapse.



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[RBW] Super-spongy brakes on my AHH - any help?

2010-09-13 Thread Adam Kimball
Wow, I'm not having much luck in the brake department with my new
ride.  I set up my Hilsen with Silver brakes and found that they
simply wouldn't stop me - I could have both levers to the tape and
still roll.  So, I changed to Paul Racer's on the advice of my LBS and
found that the situation really isn't much better.  Here is where my
thinking is at:

* I'm seeing a lot of flex in the brakes themselves and at the cable
hangers.  The rear brake is worse than the front (as is usually the
case) but I suspect the inline barrel adjuster and the rear cable
hanger (light-weight aluminum one that hangs of the seat-post bolt) is
flexing too much.

* I've brought the yokes up pretty high - I can get them higher, but
not much.  So, I'm not certain this is the problem.

* Brake-pads are the standard black Kool-Stops and I would have to
assume they are not the problem

* My Dura-Ace brake levers are incredibly squishy.  This is one piece
of the equation that is common to both setups (Silvers & Racers).  The
Racer brakes are indeed short-pull so those road levers should be fine
- but I've suspected them before.

Another mechanic took a look at the brakes and road the bike today.
He agreed that the brakes are massively under performing.  He thought
that a "travel agent" might help to pull more cable.  He also wanted
to re-cable since I cut the rear cable a little short.  He wanted me
to find out if Paul makes a stiffener that attaches to the calipers.

Does anyone have any other ideas for me?  I don't have another AHH to
ride, so it is hard for me to know just how bad my brakes are.  Keven
at Rivendell didn't think the Racer's are much better than the Silvers
for braking (and he has a pair on his Hilsen) and so he wondered what
the other problem might be.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Adam

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Re: [RBW] Super-spongy brakes on my AHH - any help?

2010-09-13 Thread James Warren

Mark at Rivendell built up my AHH with the Silvers and the Shimano Tiagra 
levers that they sell, and the performance is excellent.

-Jim W.


-Original Message-
>From: Adam Kimball 
>Sent: Sep 13, 2010 2:21 PM
>To: RBW Owners Bunch 
>Subject: [RBW] Super-spongy brakes on my AHH - any help?
>
>Wow, I'm not having much luck in the brake department with my new
>ride.  I set up my Hilsen with Silver brakes and found that they
>simply wouldn't stop me - I could have both levers to the tape and
>still roll.  So, I changed to Paul Racer's on the advice of my LBS and
>found that the situation really isn't much better.  Here is where my
>thinking is at:
>
>* I'm seeing a lot of flex in the brakes themselves and at the cable
>hangers.  The rear brake is worse than the front (as is usually the
>case) but I suspect the inline barrel adjuster and the rear cable
>hanger (light-weight aluminum one that hangs of the seat-post bolt) is
>flexing too much.
>
>* I've brought the yokes up pretty high - I can get them higher, but
>not much.  So, I'm not certain this is the problem.
>
>* Brake-pads are the standard black Kool-Stops and I would have to
>assume they are not the problem
>
>* My Dura-Ace brake levers are incredibly squishy.  This is one piece
>of the equation that is common to both setups (Silvers & Racers).  The
>Racer brakes are indeed short-pull so those road levers should be fine
>- but I've suspected them before.
>
>Another mechanic took a look at the brakes and road the bike today.
>He agreed that the brakes are massively under performing.  He thought
>that a "travel agent" might help to pull more cable.  He also wanted
>to re-cable since I cut the rear cable a little short.  He wanted me
>to find out if Paul makes a stiffener that attaches to the calipers.
>
>Does anyone have any other ideas for me?  I don't have another AHH to
>ride, so it is hard for me to know just how bad my brakes are.  Keven
>at Rivendell didn't think the Racer's are much better than the Silvers
>for braking (and he has a pair on his Hilsen) and so he wondered what
>the other problem might be.
>
>Any help would be greatly appreciated.
>
>Thanks,
>Adam
>
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[RBW] Re: Tent suggestions

2010-09-13 Thread cm
This is a tough question. I've  worked in the outdoor industry for the
last 10 years. Here is what  I would say:

1) freestanding or non-freestanding
2) tent or Tarp?
3) find a style you like-- the basic shape you want. Look at things
like the shape of the floor, the angle of the walls (steeper= less
headroom)
4) If at all possible, set them up and climb in them. No good shop
should blink at setting up 5-10 tents for you.
5) Pay attention to fabrics. Lighter weight often means less durable.
There are good places to use ultralight fabrics on a tent and there
are bad places.
6) Pay attention to set-up. How many poles? How many different size
poles? Ask yourself if this is something that you would want to do
after a long day of riding and in the rain.
7) What are the poles made out of? I think alum is best choice.

Depending on what you are looking for, you should be able to get a
killer tent from a great company for under $250. I bought a Marmot
Skylight for $189 that we use for touring. It replaced a similar North
Face tent that lasted more than a decade of hard (read: careless)
use.

Use a footprint. Buying the footprint from the manufacturer will give
you some pitching options, or you can use a sheet of plastic. I have
heard of people even using housewrap.

Once you have an idea what you want, look at the Gear Guide
(Backpacker is a good place to start). Be weary of reviews, both in
that mag and online. They def have an agenda.

Cheers!
cm

On Sep 13, 1:33 pm, nathan spindel  wrote:
> What's your favorite two-person tent for bike camping? I'm looking for
> a tent that's somewhat light (< 5 lbs?), warm enough for most
> California spring/summer/fall nights, and sets up easily.
>
> -nathan

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[RBW] Re: My new Rodeo

2010-09-13 Thread Johnny Alien
> Hey Johnny,
>
> Downtube shifters are more classic than barcons and lighter too.  A triple
> really isn't classic, and the bottom bracket and cranks are both heavier
> than a traditional double or compact double.
>
> Regards, Doug
>
> P.S.  No slight intended, but it seems to me like a lot of Roadeos are being
> built up pretty much the way I would think most AHHs get built up rather
> than as any lighter than average go-fasties...

I definitely wanted to be more on the racier end but with keeping with
some classic looks.  I never thought about it but DT shifters might be
a fantastic idea.  They are very light and more classic than putting
on brifters. (I didn't want to do barcons).

100% going to do a compact double.  I'm not sure what to do with the
FD and RD.  But DT shifters???  You have me leaning this way.

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[RBW] WTB: Mark's Rack

2010-09-13 Thread Adam Kimball
Anyone have a used Mark's rack they would like to sell?  If so,
contact me.

Thanks,
Adam

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[RBW] Re: madison, wi

2010-09-13 Thread Tim McNamara
Seth, I'm shocked.  I've been into The Yellow Jersey several times  
and have always gotten great service.  But since I was dealing with  
the owner each time, maybe that made a difference (hopefully that  
wasn't who you were dealing with, in which case color me even more  
embarrassed for recommending TYJ highly).  You might forward your  
experience to Andrew Muzi (am...@yellowjersey.org); he is the owner.


Tim


On Sep 13, 2010, at 9:21 AM, Seth Vidal wrote:


A while back I posted that I was going to madison, wi and asked for
suggestions of bike shops. I stopped in one of them yesterday to see
if we could rent a tandem. The shop was yellow jersey and I do not
think I could have been treated more rudely than there.

I asked about renting a tandem, they said they had a tandem for rent
but that we could not ride the tandem in the city.
when I asked why I was told that tandems were not safe for urban
biking that you cannot turn or brake quickly enough.

Considering that I ride a tandem with my stoker probably 3-4 days a
week in a city almost the identical size and density of madison I
found this claim... surprising. But if that was their policy I figured
I'd just move along.

so I asked - do you know of any other shops that rent tandems?

the response was: "I don't shop at any other bike shops" this was said
in the most derisive manner I have ever heard.

So, just in case anyone was curious - I do not think anyone not
wanting to be treated badly should go to that bike shop.


Curiously enough the experience I had there could not have been any
more opposite of the experience I've had at all of the rivendell
dealers and the people at rbwhq.

The folks at Mountain Sports Ltd in Bristol, VA could not have been
more helpful and friendly.
Jim Thill at Hiawatha was willing to put up with my silly-ass
questions via email and put together a set of cranks and salsa
crossing guard for me that I do so love.
Everyone I've ever spoken to at rbwhq has been helpful to the point of
making me think maybe I need to be a better person.

I like that.
Thanks to the rivendell folks and the dealers I've dealt with.

-sv

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Re: [RBW] Re: madison, wi

2010-09-13 Thread Seth Vidal
On Mon, Sep 13, 2010 at 6:07 PM, Tim McNamara  wrote:
> Seth, I'm shocked.  I've been into The Yellow Jersey several times and have
> always gotten great service.  But since I was dealing with the owner each
> time, maybe that made a difference (hopefully that wasn't who you were
> dealing with, in which case color me even more embarrassed for recommending
> TYJ highly).  You might forward your experience to Andrew Muzi
> (am...@yellowjersey.org); he is the owner.
>

I doubt I was dealing with the owner unless the owner is in his
early/mid 20s. We ended up going to the budget bicycle center where
they had an early 90s burley duet for rent. It has been perfect for us
so far today and we were treated really well there.


-sv

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[RBW] Re: Tent suggestions

2010-09-13 Thread AJ


My vote is for the Big Agnes Emerald SL2, great tent!! Can be had for
as little as $235/ with footprint.
Cheers, AJ

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[RBW] Re: Tent suggestions

2010-09-13 Thread Michael_S
as a backpacker for 30+ years I'll help you  narrow down the
decisions... choose freestanding, aluminum shock corded poles, double
wall ( seperate fly) with mesh upper panels ( light weight and
breathability).  Two doors is a nice feature but slightly heavier.

depending on your budget there are many tents that fit those criteria.
REI has some lower cost models, Marmot, Big Agnes, and Sierra Designs
are all quality mfgs.

Have fun!

~Mike~

On Sep 13, 2:27 pm, cm  wrote:
> This is a tough question. I've  worked in the outdoor industry for the
> last 10 years. Here is what  I would say:
>
> 1) freestanding or non-freestanding
> 2) tent or Tarp?
> 3) find a style you like-- the basic shape you want. Look at things
> like the shape of the floor, the angle of the walls (steeper= less
> headroom)
> 4) If at all possible, set them up and climb in them. No good shop
> should blink at setting up 5-10 tents for you.
> 5) Pay attention to fabrics. Lighter weight often means less durable.
> There are good places to use ultralight fabrics on a tent and there
> are bad places.
> 6) Pay attention to set-up. How many poles? How many different size
> poles? Ask yourself if this is something that you would want to do
> after a long day of riding and in the rain.
> 7) What are the poles made out of? I think alum is best choice.
>
> Depending on what you are looking for, you should be able to get a
> killer tent from a great company for under $250. I bought a Marmot
> Skylight for $189 that we use for touring. It replaced a similar North
> Face tent that lasted more than a decade of hard (read: careless)
> use.
>
> Use a footprint. Buying the footprint from the manufacturer will give
> you some pitching options, or you can use a sheet of plastic. I have
> heard of people even using housewrap.
>
> Once you have an idea what you want, look at the Gear Guide
> (Backpacker is a good place to start). Be weary of reviews, both in
> that mag and online. They def have an agenda.
>
> Cheers!
> cm
>
> On Sep 13, 1:33 pm, nathan spindel  wrote:
>
>
>
> > What's your favorite two-person tent for bike camping? I'm looking for
> > a tent that's somewhat light (< 5 lbs?), warm enough for most
> > California spring/summer/fall nights, and sets up easily.
>
> > -nathan- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

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Re: [RBW] Re: Tent suggestions

2010-09-13 Thread Anne Paulson
On Mon, Sep 13, 2010 at 3:40 PM, AJ  wrote:
>
>
> My vote is for the Big Agnes Emerald SL2, great tent!! Can be had for
> as little as $235/ with footprint.
> Cheers, AJ

It appears from the REI page that the Emerald doesn't, in its usual
configuration, have a vestibule. Is that right? For bike touring, I
think a gear vestibule is essential. There needs to be a place to put
shoes, helmet,  and panniers where they don't get wet if it's raining,
and to stash wet raingear so the clothes and sleeping bag can stay
dry.

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My hovercraft is full of eels

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[RBW] Re: Mickelson Trail Trek?

2010-09-13 Thread Forrest
In the summer of 2004, a friend and I did the length of the trail from
Deadwood to Edgemont and back (220 miles) over four days. I did it on
a Trek hybrid bike with over-inflated 35mm tires (I didn't know any
better). Shortly after this ride I acquired my first Rivendell bike,
an Atlantis. My buddy, a skilled and experienced rider, did it on his
Chris Kvale custom road bike with 30mm Michelin XC tires that barely
cleared his frame and brakes. The terrain is a mix of crushed rock,
packed dirt, loose sand, larger gravel, and in some stretches a mix of
slick-rock and tree roots.

There's a map with an elevation bar to the left of it here:
http://gfp.sd.gov/state-parks/directory/mickelson-trail/map.aspx

I would really like to go back and do this trail again, using my Sam
Hillborne with 40mm Schwalbe tires at about 40psi. That would be just
the ticket, I think. The Mickelson Trail is very scenic, challenging,
and (IMHO) fun. Much of it is in the Black Hills (pine forest), with
some in high plains desert.

-- Forrest

On Sep 13, 1:16 pm, Timothy Whalen  wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> Anyone ever ridden the Mickelson Trail Trek in SD?  This is a ride of about
> 110 miles on a rail trail spread over three days and centered around Custer
> that looks like fun.  I am thinking about doing it this weekend and
> especially looking for other's experience regarding bike choice.  The
> website describes the trail as surfaced in crushed limestone and recmmends a
> mountain bike.  I wonder though whether a versatile Rivendell with wider
> tires would not work just fine.  I am thinking either my Rodeo with 35's or
> my QB with something a bit wider.
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Tim Whalen
> Colorado Springs

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Re: [RBW] Tahoe Epic 2010 - a set on Flickr

2010-09-13 Thread Anne Paulson
Eric, and others doing that route, do you know the nicer route on the
Tahoe side of Luther Pass? A touring cyclist pointed it out to me last
week when I was finishing off my (Riv-enabled) Sierra Cascades trip by
riding over Luther and Carson Passes to Sacramento.

In the westward direction, don't turn off Highway 50 onto Highway 89
in Meyers. Instead, go a little further, cross the river, then turn
left onto S. Upper Truckee Road. Ride until you reach Highway 89.
Then, instead of turning onto Highway 89, cross the road and enter the
campground. Ride through the campground. Eventually you'll reach a
Tahoe Rim trailhead, where you'll turn left to finish off the climb to
Luther Pass.

In the eastward direction, after cresting Luther Pass and beginning to
head down, turn right at the Tahoe Rim trailhead, ride through the
campground, cross 89, ride down S. Upper Truckee Road, turn right to
continue on to South Lake Tahoe.

Riding down the Sierra, I was forced to spend a lot of time on Highway
89. It's not a particularly pleasant road, so I was glad to take any
opportunity that presented itself to ride a nicer parallel road.

On Mon, Sep 13, 2010 at 1:20 PM, Eric Norris  wrote:
>  My Riv-enabled weekend ride: just a shade under 300 miles with 18,000 feet 
> of climbing from Davis to Lake Tahoe and back, all aboard my Riv Road 
> Standard:
>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/35176...@n03/sets/72157624947289984/
>
> Captions for the photos coming soon.
>
> --Eric
> campyonly...@me.com
> www.campyonly.com
> www.wheelsnorth.org
>
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>



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[RBW] Re: Tent suggestions

2010-09-13 Thread William
I have an 18 year old North Face Tadpole 23, and have been very
pleased with it.  I just bought a new Tadpole 23 at the North Face
Outlet (thank god they had the footprint) and it's great, too.  Pretty
good sized vestibule for my stuff.  If I'm solo, all the stuff can
come inside.  I used it with both kids (ages 9 and 6) for S24O's.  I
used it without the fly on Mt Diablo, and the breathability was
great.

On Sep 13, 3:46 pm, Anne Paulson  wrote:
> On Mon, Sep 13, 2010 at 3:40 PM, AJ  wrote:
>
> > My vote is for the Big Agnes Emerald SL2, great tent!! Can be had for
> > as little as $235/ with footprint.
> > Cheers, AJ
>
> It appears from the REI page that the Emerald doesn't, in its usual
> configuration, have a vestibule. Is that right? For bike touring, I
> think a gear vestibule is essential. There needs to be a place to put
> shoes, helmet,  and panniers where they don't get wet if it's raining,
> and to stash wet raingear so the clothes and sleeping bag can stay
> dry.
>
> --
> -- Anne Paulson
>
> My hovercraft is full of eels

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[RBW] Re: Tent suggestions

2010-09-13 Thread AJ


Anne,

The BA Emerald has about 13'9" square feet, standard vestibule.  The
adder vestibule, adds another 27 square feet.-AJ

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[RBW] Mickelson trail trek

2010-09-13 Thread Roger and Carolyn SKALLERUD

It is a beautiful ride, there are a couple of long (12 mile) gradual grades but 
my 68 year old body can make them all.  I live only a few miles from the trail 
so ride it often on a 650B Bleriot, the trail is mostly hard packed granite 
chips.  Good ride, beautiful scenery, good food, it is not one to miss.

Roger

Belle Fourche, SD
  

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Re: [RBW] Re: Mickelson Trail Trek?

2010-09-13 Thread erik jensen
i rode it several years ago with a crosscheck on 38mm supremes, you'd be ok
with less. very fun, not too challenging. a wonderful day spent in pleasant
surroundings.

erik

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[RBW] Re: Tent suggestions

2010-09-13 Thread Andy.M
I toured down the CA coast this summer and have done a few s24o's with
this guy here

http://tinyurl.com/cabelasxpg

this thing is great and without the fly packs down to about 5'' x 12''
and is super easy for one person to set up and tear down.

-Andy in SoCal  (but soon to be Seattle)

On Sep 13, 1:33 pm, nathan spindel  wrote:
> What's your favorite two-person tent for bike camping? I'm looking for
> a tent that's somewhat light (< 5 lbs?), warm enough for most
> California spring/summer/fall nights, and sets up easily.
>
> -nathan

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[RBW] Re: Super-spongy brakes on my AHH - any help?

2010-09-13 Thread Dave Craig
Adam

A travel agent won't help. It is designed for linear pull brakes.

Is it possible that you used derailleur cable housing instead of brake
housing?

Is it possible that the brake housing isn't properly seated in the
brake lever bodies?

On Sep 13, 2:27 pm, James Warren  wrote:
> Mark at Rivendell built up my AHH with the Silvers and the Shimano Tiagra 
> levers that they sell, and the performance is excellent.
>
> -Jim W.
>
>
>
> -Original Message-
> >From: Adam Kimball 
> >Sent: Sep 13, 2010 2:21 PM
> >To: RBW Owners Bunch 
> >Subject: [RBW] Super-spongy brakes on my AHH - any help?
>
> >Wow, I'm not having much luck in the brake department with my new
> >ride.  I set up my Hilsen with Silver brakes and found that they
> >simply wouldn't stop me - I could have both levers to the tape and
> >still roll.  So, I changed to Paul Racer's on the advice of my LBS and
> >found that the situation really isn't much better.  Here is where my
> >thinking is at:
>
> >* I'm seeing a lot of flex in the brakes themselves and at the cable
> >hangers.  The rear brake is worse than the front (as is usually the
> >case) but I suspect the inline barrel adjuster and the rear cable
> >hanger (light-weight aluminum one that hangs of the seat-post bolt) is
> >flexing too much.
>
> >* I've brought the yokes up pretty high - I can get them higher, but
> >not much.  So, I'm not certain this is the problem.
>
> >* Brake-pads are the standard black Kool-Stops and I would have to
> >assume they are not the problem
>
> >* My Dura-Ace brake levers are incredibly squishy.  This is one piece
> >of the equation that is common to both setups (Silvers & Racers).  The
> >Racer brakes are indeed short-pull so those road levers should be fine
> >- but I've suspected them before.
>
> >Another mechanic took a look at the brakes and road the bike today.
> >He agreed that the brakes are massively under performing.  He thought
> >that a "travel agent" might help to pull more cable.  He also wanted
> >to re-cable since I cut the rear cable a little short.  He wanted me
> >to find out if Paul makes a stiffener that attaches to the calipers.
>
> >Does anyone have any other ideas for me?  I don't have another AHH to
> >ride, so it is hard for me to know just how bad my brakes are.  Keven
> >at Rivendell didn't think the Racer's are much better than the Silvers
> >for braking (and he has a pair on his Hilsen) and so he wondered what
> >the other problem might be.
>
> >Any help would be greatly appreciated.
>
> >Thanks,
> >Adam
>
> >--
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> >"RBW Owners Bunch" group.
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>
> - Show quoted text -

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[RBW] Re: Tent suggestions

2010-09-13 Thread MichaelH
I don't do much bike camping, but do  canoe camping every year.  We
use a three person Tarp Tent. It weighs 30 oz and packs up pretty
small.  Two weeks ago we camped through a night of heavy rain and
remained completely dry.  I will say  though, that the tent is quite
sensitive to being set up just right.  The mfg. doesn't provide any
real help in getting the tent set up correctly, but once I mastered
that, it has been a great tent.

Michael

On Sep 13, 4:33 pm, nathan spindel  wrote:
> What's your favorite two-person tent for bike camping? I'm looking for
> a tent that's somewhat light (< 5 lbs?), warm enough for most
> California spring/summer/fall nights, and sets up easily.
>
> -nathan

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Re: [RBW] Tahoe Epic 2010 - a set on Flickr

2010-09-13 Thread Eric Norris
You are far more adventurous than us.  Hwy 89 was actually an alternate 
choice--my preference is to stick to Hwy 50 for the return trip.  

--Eric
campyonly...@me.com
www.campyonly.com
www.wheelsnorth.org

On Sep 13, 2010, at 3:56 PM, Anne Paulson wrote:

> Eric, and others doing that route, do you know the nicer route on the
> Tahoe side of Luther Pass? A touring cyclist pointed it out to me last
> week when I was finishing off my (Riv-enabled) Sierra Cascades trip by
> riding over Luther and Carson Passes to Sacramento.
> 
> In the westward direction, don't turn off Highway 50 onto Highway 89
> in Meyers. Instead, go a little further, cross the river, then turn
> left onto S. Upper Truckee Road. Ride until you reach Highway 89.
> Then, instead of turning onto Highway 89, cross the road and enter the
> campground. Ride through the campground. Eventually you'll reach a
> Tahoe Rim trailhead, where you'll turn left to finish off the climb to
> Luther Pass.
> 
> In the eastward direction, after cresting Luther Pass and beginning to
> head down, turn right at the Tahoe Rim trailhead, ride through the
> campground, cross 89, ride down S. Upper Truckee Road, turn right to
> continue on to South Lake Tahoe.
> 
> Riding down the Sierra, I was forced to spend a lot of time on Highway
> 89. It's not a particularly pleasant road, so I was glad to take any
> opportunity that presented itself to ride a nicer parallel road.
> 
> On Mon, Sep 13, 2010 at 1:20 PM, Eric Norris  wrote:
>>  My Riv-enabled weekend ride: just a shade under 300 miles with 18,000 feet 
>> of climbing from Davis to Lake Tahoe and back, all aboard my Riv Road 
>> Standard:
>> 
>> http://www.flickr.com/photos/35176...@n03/sets/72157624947289984/
>> 
>> Captions for the photos coming soon.
>> 
>> --Eric
>> campyonly...@me.com
>> www.campyonly.com
>> www.wheelsnorth.org
>> 
>> --
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>> "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
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>> 
>> 
> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> -- Anne Paulson
> 
> My hovercraft is full of eels
> 
> -- 
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[RBW] Re: Super-spongy brakes on my AHH - any help?

2010-09-13 Thread MichaelH
I certainly can't give you a definitive answer, but I can share my
experience.  I had a bike with Shimano canti brakes and Ultegra
levers.  The stopping power was frighteningly poor.  First I switched
to a set of paul's neo retros and that helped smewhat.  Then I
replaced the Ultegraa Brifters  with a pair of Cane Creek levers and
voila, had great braking power and control.  I have come to the
conclusion that Shimano levers simply don't draw enough cable to work
reliably with anything other than short reach shimano brakes.

Michael



On Sep 13, 5:27 pm, James Warren  wrote:
> Mark at Rivendell built up my AHH with the Silvers and the Shimano Tiagra 
> levers that they sell, and the performance is excellent.
>
> -Jim W.
>
>
>
> -Original Message-
> >From: Adam Kimball 
> >Sent: Sep 13, 2010 2:21 PM
> >To: RBW Owners Bunch 
> >Subject: [RBW] Super-spongy brakes on my AHH - any help?
>
> >Wow, I'm not having much luck in the brake department with my new
> >ride.  I set up my Hilsen with Silver brakes and found that they
> >simply wouldn't stop me - I could have both levers to the tape and
> >still roll.  So, I changed to Paul Racer's on the advice of my LBS and
> >found that the situation really isn't much better.  Here is where my
> >thinking is at:
>
> >* I'm seeing a lot of flex in the brakes themselves and at the cable
> >hangers.  The rear brake is worse than the front (as is usually the
> >case) but I suspect the inline barrel adjuster and the rear cable
> >hanger (light-weight aluminum one that hangs of the seat-post bolt) is
> >flexing too much.
>
> >* I've brought the yokes up pretty high - I can get them higher, but
> >not much.  So, I'm not certain this is the problem.
>
> >* Brake-pads are the standard black Kool-Stops and I would have to
> >assume they are not the problem
>
> >* My Dura-Ace brake levers are incredibly squishy.  This is one piece
> >of the equation that is common to both setups (Silvers & Racers).  The
> >Racer brakes are indeed short-pull so those road levers should be fine
> >- but I've suspected them before.
>
> >Another mechanic took a look at the brakes and road the bike today.
> >He agreed that the brakes are massively under performing.  He thought
> >that a "travel agent" might help to pull more cable.  He also wanted
> >to re-cable since I cut the rear cable a little short.  He wanted me
> >to find out if Paul makes a stiffener that attaches to the calipers.
>
> >Does anyone have any other ideas for me?  I don't have another AHH to
> >ride, so it is hard for me to know just how bad my brakes are.  Keven
> >at Rivendell didn't think the Racer's are much better than the Silvers
> >for braking (and he has a pair on his Hilsen) and so he wondered what
> >the other problem might be.
>
> >Any help would be greatly appreciated.
>
> >Thanks,
> >Adam
>
> >--
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Re: [RBW] Re: Super-spongy brakes on my AHH - any help?

2010-09-13 Thread Steve Palincsar
On Mon, 2010-09-13 at 16:34 -0700, MichaelH wrote:
> I have come to the
> conclusion that Shimano levers simply don't draw enough cable to work
> reliably with anything other than short reach shimano brakes.


I don't know about brifters - I've never used them - but Shimano aero
brake levers work just fine with cantilevers and center pull brakes.  I
use them with Avid Shorty 4 and Deore XT II cantis, and with Mafac Raid
and Paul Racer center pulls without any issues.



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Re: [RBW] Super-spongy brakes on my AHH - any help?

2010-09-13 Thread Doug Van Cleve
Hey Adam.

I've gotta think plenty of Silver/Tektro calipers are in use with Shimano
aero levers.  I would suspect the cable housing.  Are the ends cut cleanly
and squared off, with a file if necessary?  Are you using metal housing end
caps where they fit or at least the plastic ones?  I would recommend using
some so-called "compressionless" housing, kind of a brake/derailleur
hybrid.  SRAM and Jagwire both make it, probably others do as well.  Also,
you want the pads reasonably close to the rims, I'd say 2-3mm clearance.

HTH, Doug

P.S.  The Tektro/Silvers are on the flexy side due to their length, but
should still give reasonable performance if set up right.


On Mon, Sep 13, 2010 at 2:21 PM, Adam Kimball wrote:

> Wow, I'm not having much luck in the brake department with my new
> ride.  I set up my Hilsen with Silver brakes and found that they
> simply wouldn't stop me - I could have both levers to the tape and
> still roll.  So, I changed to Paul Racer's on the advice of my LBS and
> found that the situation really isn't much better.  Here is where my
> thinking is at:
>
> * I'm seeing a lot of flex in the brakes themselves and at the cable
> hangers.  The rear brake is worse than the front (as is usually the
> case) but I suspect the inline barrel adjuster and the rear cable
> hanger (light-weight aluminum one that hangs of the seat-post bolt) is
> flexing too much.
>
> * I've brought the yokes up pretty high - I can get them higher, but
> not much.  So, I'm not certain this is the problem.
>
> * Brake-pads are the standard black Kool-Stops and I would have to
> assume they are not the problem
>
> * My Dura-Ace brake levers are incredibly squishy.  This is one piece
> of the equation that is common to both setups (Silvers & Racers).  The
> Racer brakes are indeed short-pull so those road levers should be fine
> - but I've suspected them before.
>
> Another mechanic took a look at the brakes and road the bike today.
> He agreed that the brakes are massively under performing.  He thought
> that a "travel agent" might help to pull more cable.  He also wanted
> to re-cable since I cut the rear cable a little short.  He wanted me
> to find out if Paul makes a stiffener that attaches to the calipers.
>
> Does anyone have any other ideas for me?  I don't have another AHH to
> ride, so it is hard for me to know just how bad my brakes are.  Keven
> at Rivendell didn't think the Racer's are much better than the Silvers
> for braking (and he has a pair on his Hilsen) and so he wondered what
> the other problem might be.
>
> Any help would be greatly appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
> Adam
>

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[RBW] WTB- Mustache Handlebars and a B17 approximate

2010-09-13 Thread Adam
Greetings,

Looking to replace the handlebars and saddle of a somewhat budget
vintage trek I'm working on, it's a 1987 560 if you're interested.
I'd like to find some used nitto Mustache bars as well as a B17 Brooks
saddle or something similar.

I live in Berkeley, close proximity is nice though I'm willing to pay
shipping.

Thanks,
Adam

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[RBW] Re: Tent suggestions

2010-09-13 Thread Adam
I'm a big fan of the Black Diamond First Light.  It's the choice tent
for many back country workers in the High Sierra.  Extremely light and
compact, it fits 2 people who are OK with intimacy and is more water
proof than some would let you believe.  Check it out.

Cheers,
Adan

On Sep 13, 1:33 pm, nathan spindel  wrote:
> What's your favorite two-person tent for bike camping? I'm looking for
> a tent that's somewhat light (< 5 lbs?), warm enough for most
> California spring/summer/fall nights, and sets up easily.
>
> -nathan

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[RBW] Re: madison, wi

2010-09-13 Thread JoelMatthews
Seth:

There actually is some logic behind the no tandem rent in the city.
While I am sure you and your partner are experienced tandem riders,
novices can be quite a hazard on tandems, especially in urban areas.
A rental out fit in Chicago added tandems to its mix a few years
bike.  After a high accident rate it was forced by its insurer to drop
them.

Obviously the fellow should have been more polite about it.

On Sep 13, 9:21 am, Seth Vidal  wrote:
> A while back I posted that I was going to madison, wi and asked for
> suggestions of bike shops. I stopped in one of them yesterday to see
> if we could rent a tandem. The shop was yellow jersey and I do not
> think I could have been treated more rudely than there.
>
> I asked about renting a tandem, they said they had a tandem for rent
> but that we could not ride the tandem in the city.
> when I asked why I was told that tandems were not safe for urban
> biking that you cannot turn or brake quickly enough.
>
> Considering that I ride a tandem with my stoker probably 3-4 days a
> week in a city almost the identical size and density of madison I
> found this claim... surprising. But if that was their policy I figured
> I'd just move along.
>
> so I asked - do you know of any other shops that rent tandems?
>
> the response was: "I don't shop at any other bike shops" this was said
> in the most derisive manner I have ever heard.
>
> So, just in case anyone was curious - I do not think anyone not
> wanting to be treated badly should go to that bike shop.
>
> Curiously enough the experience I had there could not have been any
> more opposite of the experience I've had at all of the rivendell
> dealers and the people at rbwhq.
>
> The folks at Mountain Sports Ltd in Bristol, VA could not have been
> more helpful and friendly.
> Jim Thill at Hiawatha was willing to put up with my silly-ass
> questions via email and put together a set of cranks and salsa
> crossing guard for me that I do so love.
> Everyone I've ever spoken to at rbwhq has been helpful to the point of
> making me think maybe I need to be a better person.
>
> I like that.
> Thanks to the rivendell folks and the dealers I've dealt with.
>
> -sv

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[RBW] Re: Tent suggestions

2010-09-13 Thread JoelMatthews
I only camp alone.  My brother is lucky enough to have a partner who
is as into camping as he is.  They have been using a Hilleberg Jannu
for a couple years now.  It is a beautiful, well made tent that is
very light and sets up quickly.

On Sep 13, 3:33 pm, nathan spindel  wrote:
> What's your favorite two-person tent for bike camping? I'm looking for
> a tent that's somewhat light (< 5 lbs?), warm enough for most
> California spring/summer/fall nights, and sets up easily.
>
> -nathan

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Re: [RBW] Tahoe Epic 2010 - a set on Flickr

2010-09-13 Thread Anne Paulson
Really? You think Highway 50 is better than 89 to 88? I didn't much
like 88 & 89 but I heard 50 is busier and also has no shoulder.

On Mon, Sep 13, 2010 at 4:30 PM, Eric Norris  wrote:
> You are far more adventurous than us.  Hwy 89 was actually an alternate 
> choice--my preference is to stick to Hwy 50 for the return trip.
>
> --Eric
> campyonly...@me.com
> www.campyonly.com
> www.wheelsnorth.org
>
> On Sep 13, 2010, at 3:56 PM, Anne Paulson wrote:
>
>> Eric, and others doing that route, do you know the nicer route on the
>> Tahoe side of Luther Pass? A touring cyclist pointed it out to me last
>> week when I was finishing off my (Riv-enabled) Sierra Cascades trip by
>> riding over Luther and Carson Passes to Sacramento.
>>
>> In the westward direction, don't turn off Highway 50 onto Highway 89
>> in Meyers. Instead, go a little further, cross the river, then turn
>> left onto S. Upper Truckee Road. Ride until you reach Highway 89.
>> Then, instead of turning onto Highway 89, cross the road and enter the
>> campground. Ride through the campground. Eventually you'll reach a
>> Tahoe Rim trailhead, where you'll turn left to finish off the climb to
>> Luther Pass.
>>
>> In the eastward direction, after cresting Luther Pass and beginning to
>> head down, turn right at the Tahoe Rim trailhead, ride through the
>> campground, cross 89, ride down S. Upper Truckee Road, turn right to
>> continue on to South Lake Tahoe.
>>
>> Riding down the Sierra, I was forced to spend a lot of time on Highway
>> 89. It's not a particularly pleasant road, so I was glad to take any
>> opportunity that presented itself to ride a nicer parallel road.
>>
>> On Mon, Sep 13, 2010 at 1:20 PM, Eric Norris  wrote:
>>>  My Riv-enabled weekend ride: just a shade under 300 miles with 18,000 feet 
>>> of climbing from Davis to Lake Tahoe and back, all aboard my Riv Road 
>>> Standard:
>>>
>>> http://www.flickr.com/photos/35176...@n03/sets/72157624947289984/
>>>
>>> Captions for the photos coming soon.
>>>
>>> --Eric
>>> campyonly...@me.com
>>> www.campyonly.com
>>> www.wheelsnorth.org
>>>
>>> --
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>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> -- Anne Paulson
>>
>> My hovercraft is full of eels
>>
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[RBW] WTB: Midge, Woodchipper, Junebug, Dirtdrop, Etc, Part 2

2010-09-13 Thread jandrews_nyc
I'm back looking for one of the above (or similar) trail type flared
handlebars after purchasing some that never materialized.
I'm pretty open to the type, style, size (as they all seem pretty
wide), because this is really a trial run for me with this sort of
bar.
25.4 clamp size would be ideal, but I'm flexible.
Thanks!
Jason

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Re: [RBW] Tahoe Epic 2010 - a set on Flickr

2010-09-13 Thread Eric Norris
Busier, yes, but only one summit to climb to get to Placerville.  There are 
four summits if you take Hwy 89 (Luther Pass, Carson Pass, Carson Spur, and the 
climb to the top of Mormon Emigrant Trail).

--Eric
campyonly...@me.com
www.campyonly.com
www.wheelsnorth.org

On Sep 13, 2010, at 6:00 PM, Anne Paulson wrote:

> Really? You think Highway 50 is better than 89 to 88? I didn't much
> like 88 & 89 but I heard 50 is busier and also has no shoulder.
> 
> On Mon, Sep 13, 2010 at 4:30 PM, Eric Norris  wrote:
>> You are far more adventurous than us.  Hwy 89 was actually an alternate 
>> choice--my preference is to stick to Hwy 50 for the return trip.
>> 
>> --Eric
>> campyonly...@me.com
>> www.campyonly.com
>> www.wheelsnorth.org
>> 
>> On Sep 13, 2010, at 3:56 PM, Anne Paulson wrote:
>> 
>>> Eric, and others doing that route, do you know the nicer route on the
>>> Tahoe side of Luther Pass? A touring cyclist pointed it out to me last
>>> week when I was finishing off my (Riv-enabled) Sierra Cascades trip by
>>> riding over Luther and Carson Passes to Sacramento.
>>> 
>>> In the westward direction, don't turn off Highway 50 onto Highway 89
>>> in Meyers. Instead, go a little further, cross the river, then turn
>>> left onto S. Upper Truckee Road. Ride until you reach Highway 89.
>>> Then, instead of turning onto Highway 89, cross the road and enter the
>>> campground. Ride through the campground. Eventually you'll reach a
>>> Tahoe Rim trailhead, where you'll turn left to finish off the climb to
>>> Luther Pass.
>>> 
>>> In the eastward direction, after cresting Luther Pass and beginning to
>>> head down, turn right at the Tahoe Rim trailhead, ride through the
>>> campground, cross 89, ride down S. Upper Truckee Road, turn right to
>>> continue on to South Lake Tahoe.
>>> 
>>> Riding down the Sierra, I was forced to spend a lot of time on Highway
>>> 89. It's not a particularly pleasant road, so I was glad to take any
>>> opportunity that presented itself to ride a nicer parallel road.
>>> 
>>> On Mon, Sep 13, 2010 at 1:20 PM, Eric Norris  wrote:
  My Riv-enabled weekend ride: just a shade under 300 miles with 18,000 
 feet of climbing from Davis to Lake Tahoe and back, all aboard my Riv Road 
 Standard:
 
 http://www.flickr.com/photos/35176...@n03/sets/72157624947289984/
 
 Captions for the photos coming soon.
 
 --Eric
 campyonly...@me.com
 www.campyonly.com
 www.wheelsnorth.org
 
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>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> --
>>> -- Anne Paulson
>>> 
>>> My hovercraft is full of eels
>>> 
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>> 
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> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> -- Anne Paulson
> 
> My hovercraft is full of eels
> 
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[RBW] Re: madison, wi

2010-09-13 Thread RonaTD
On Sep 13, 5:23 pm, Seth Vidal  wrote:
> I doubt I was dealing with the owner unless the owner is in his
> early/mid 20s.

Andy's definitely not that, but as the owner he sets the tone for the
shop. Personally, I wasn't surprised to read your story. In my
experience and talking to others, what you get at YJ is a pretty
random mix from great to rude.

Ted Durant

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Re: [RBW] Re: madison, wi

2010-09-13 Thread Seth Vidal
On Mon, Sep 13, 2010 at 8:45 PM, JoelMatthews  wrote:
> Seth:
>
> There actually is some logic behind the no tandem rent in the city.
> While I am sure you and your partner are experienced tandem riders,
> novices can be quite a hazard on tandems, especially in urban areas.
> A rental out fit in Chicago added tandems to its mix a few years
> bike.  After a high accident rate it was forced by its insurer to drop
> them.
>
> Obviously the fellow should have been more polite about it.
>

Joel,
 I don't disagree that tandeming in the city takes some more effort.
However, my objection was not to being told they wouldn't rent it to me.

 It was to being treated like I was not deserving of their attention or time.

-sv

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Re: [RBW] WTB: Midge, Woodchipper, Junebug, Dirtdrop, Etc, Part 2

2010-09-13 Thread cyclotourist
Hi Jason, I think I mentioned this in Part I, but the Origin8 Gary bars are
readily available and cheap from your LBS.  25.4 clamp.


On Mon, Sep 13, 2010 at 6:12 PM, jandrews_nyc wrote:

> I'm back looking for one of the above (or similar) trail type flared
> handlebars after purchasing some that never materialized.
> I'm pretty open to the type, style, size (as they all seem pretty
> wide), because this is really a trial run for me with this sort of
> bar.
> 25.4 clamp size would be ideal, but I'm flexible.
> Thanks!
> Jason
>
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David
Redlands, CA

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[RBW] Re: Tent suggestions

2010-09-13 Thread Gary
Big Agnes SL2. Great tent under 3 lbs. Ive used mine for 3 years as of
this summer. Down to frost temps and in summer you can pop the fly and
have a 360 degree bug free view of the stars. Has a decent vestibule
for panniers, shoes and even a quick cook in a down pour. Free
standing and real easy to set up. I have 4 tents for Back/Bikepacking
and mountaineering. If you don't plan on spending days above the tree
line or sub freezing temps then this should be on your short list to
check out. It's my favorite to date for this kind of use.

Gary

On Sep 13, 1:33 pm, nathan spindel  wrote:
> What's your favorite two-person tent for bike camping? I'm looking for
> a tent that's somewhat light (< 5 lbs?), warm enough for most
> California spring/summer/fall nights, and sets up easily.
>
> -nathan

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[RBW] Re: WTB: Midge, Woodchipper, Junebug, Dirtdrop, Etc, Part 2

2010-09-13 Thread Gary
I have a WTB mountain drop in excellent shape from a build I just took
apart. The bike I had it on a Specialized Epic Marathon but the TT on
that bike was too long for drops even with a small stem. I also have a
used (less than 100 miles) set of mechanical Avid Disc brakes and
rotors.  If your interested I'll measure it tomorrow and shoot you a
picture. I forgot the size as it's not measured like regular drop
bars. You can contact me off list if interested.
Gary

On Sep 13, 6:12 pm, jandrews_nyc  wrote:
> I'm back looking for one of the above (or similar) trail type flared
> handlebars after purchasing some that never materialized.
> I'm pretty open to the type, style, size (as they all seem pretty
> wide), because this is really a trial run for me with this sort of
> bar.
> 25.4 clamp size would be ideal, but I'm flexible.
> Thanks!
> Jason

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Re: [RBW] Tahoe Epic 2010 - a set on Flickr

2010-09-13 Thread cyclotourist
Amazing... utterly amazing.

On Mon, Sep 13, 2010 at 6:27 PM, Eric Norris  wrote:

> Busier, yes, but only one summit to climb to get to Placerville.  There are
> four summits if you take Hwy 89 (Luther Pass, Carson Pass, Carson Spur, and
> the climb to the top of Mormon Emigrant Trail).
>
> --Eric
> campyonly...@me.com
> www.campyonly.com
> www.wheelsnorth.org
>
> On Sep 13, 2010, at 6:00 PM, Anne Paulson wrote:
>
> > Really? You think Highway 50 is better than 89 to 88? I didn't much
> > like 88 & 89 but I heard 50 is busier and also has no shoulder.
> >
> > On Mon, Sep 13, 2010 at 4:30 PM, Eric Norris 
> wrote:
> >> You are far more adventurous than us.  Hwy 89 was actually an alternate
> choice--my preference is to stick to Hwy 50 for the return trip.
> >>
> >> --Eric
> >> campyonly...@me.com
> >> www.campyonly.com
> >> www.wheelsnorth.org
> >>
> >> On Sep 13, 2010, at 3:56 PM, Anne Paulson wrote:
> >>
> >>> Eric, and others doing that route, do you know the nicer route on the
> >>> Tahoe side of Luther Pass? A touring cyclist pointed it out to me last
> >>> week when I was finishing off my (Riv-enabled) Sierra Cascades trip by
> >>> riding over Luther and Carson Passes to Sacramento.
> >>>
> >>> In the westward direction, don't turn off Highway 50 onto Highway 89
> >>> in Meyers. Instead, go a little further, cross the river, then turn
> >>> left onto S. Upper Truckee Road. Ride until you reach Highway 89.
> >>> Then, instead of turning onto Highway 89, cross the road and enter the
> >>> campground. Ride through the campground. Eventually you'll reach a
> >>> Tahoe Rim trailhead, where you'll turn left to finish off the climb to
> >>> Luther Pass.
> >>>
> >>> In the eastward direction, after cresting Luther Pass and beginning to
> >>> head down, turn right at the Tahoe Rim trailhead, ride through the
> >>> campground, cross 89, ride down S. Upper Truckee Road, turn right to
> >>> continue on to South Lake Tahoe.
> >>>
> >>> Riding down the Sierra, I was forced to spend a lot of time on Highway
> >>> 89. It's not a particularly pleasant road, so I was glad to take any
> >>> opportunity that presented itself to ride a nicer parallel road.
> >>>
> >>> On Mon, Sep 13, 2010 at 1:20 PM, Eric Norris 
> wrote:
>   My Riv-enabled weekend ride: just a shade under 300 miles with 18,000
> feet of climbing from Davis to Lake Tahoe and back, all aboard my Riv Road
> Standard:
> 
>  http://www.flickr.com/photos/35176...@n03/sets/72157624947289984/
> 
>  Captions for the photos coming soon.
> 
>  --Eric
>  campyonly...@me.com
>  www.campyonly.com
>  www.wheelsnorth.org
> 
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> 
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> --
> >>> -- Anne Paulson
> >>>
> >>> My hovercraft is full of eels
> >>>
> >>> --
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> Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
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> >>
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> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> > --
> > -- Anne Paulson
> >
> > My hovercraft is full of eels
> >
> > --
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[RBW] Re: Super-spongy brakes on my AHH - any help?

2010-09-13 Thread meinertj
Hey Adam,

I've never worked with the Silvers or the Pauls, but I work on a lot
of older 80's road bikes and often encounter squishy brakes.  Are the
levers returning to their position because if not it may be a cable
issue, but it doesn't sound like it.  Are your wheels out of true?
because if so that could keep you from getting the brake pads as close
as necessary...

It would be a good idea to get the yokes up as high as you can, but
maybe there is still a bit of space between your brake pads and the
rim, if that's then case then...

what I would try is (and this is easier with 2 people) setting your
yokes all the way down, loosening the bolt that holds your brake cable
to your Silvers, squeezing the brakes together onto your rims with one
hand, and pulling the cable as far as you can with your other hand
(easier with a pair of pliers) and then if you can while still pulling
the cable retighten the the bolt to your cable... if your wheel can
still spin after that, then tighten the yokes until your brakes start
rubbing on the rims and then loosen just a bit.  A travel agent may do
the trick also, but might be unnecessary.

Hope this helps, it may be just what I do on the old bikes but with
your better equipment, the problem may be as you said with the
flexing.  Good luck!

james

(ps. this is my first post, so if it gets past the admins: hello rbw
owners, i'm james, i live in st. louis, i work on old bikes a lot and
ride a fuji touring series and i like reading and following this
group!)

-Original Message-
>From: Adam Kimball 
>Sent: Sep 13, 2010 2:21 PM
>To: RBW Owners Bunch 
>Subject: [RBW] Super-spongy brakes on my AHH - any help?

>Wow, I'm not having much luck in the brake department with my new
>ride.  I set up my Hilsen with Silver brakes and found that they
>simply wouldn't stop me - I could have both levers to the tape and
>still roll.  So, I changed to Paul Racer's on the advice of my LBS and
>found that the situation really isn't much better.  Here is where my
>thinking is at:

>* I'm seeing a lot of flex in the brakes themselves and at the cable
>hangers.  The rear brake is worse than the front (as is usually the
>case) but I suspect the inline barrel adjuster and the rear cable
>hanger (light-weight aluminum one that hangs of the seat-post bolt) is
>flexing too much.

>* I've brought the yokes up pretty high - I can get them higher, but
>not much.  So, I'm not certain this is the problem.

>* Brake-pads are the standard black Kool-Stops and I would have to
>assume they are not the problem

>* My Dura-Ace brake levers are incredibly squishy.  This is one piece
>of the equation that is common to both setups (Silvers & Racers).  The
>Racer brakes are indeed short-pull so those road levers should be fine
>- but I've suspected them before.

>Another mechanic took a look at the brakes and road the bike today.
>He agreed that the brakes are massively under performing.  He thought
>that a "travel agent" might help to pull more cable.  He also wanted
>to re-cable since I cut the rear cable a little short.  He wanted me
>to find out if Paul makes a stiffener that attaches to the calipers.

>Does anyone have any other ideas for me?  I don't have another AHH to
>ride, so it is hard for me to know just how bad my brakes are.  Keven
>at Rivendell didn't think the Racer's are much better than the Silvers
>for braking (and he has a pair on his Hilsen) and so he wondered what
>the other problem might be.

>Any help would be greatly appreciated.

>Thanks,
>Adam

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[RBW] Re: Tent suggestions

2010-09-13 Thread Montclair BobbyB
I own a Sierra Designs Electron 2-person, 3 season... GREAT tent, twin
vestibule, alum pole, very waterproof, well-ventilated, nice
design Would buy it all over again.
I think it's discontinued, but I'm sure its successor is a quality
offering.

BB

On Sep 13, 8:24 pm, Adam  wrote:
> I'm a big fan of the Black Diamond First Light.  It's the choice tent
> for many back country workers in the High Sierra.  Extremely light and
> compact, it fits 2 people who are OK with intimacy and is more water
> proof than some would let you believe.  Check it out.
>
> Cheers,
> Adan
>
> On Sep 13, 1:33 pm, nathan spindel  wrote:
>
>
>
> > What's your favorite two-person tent for bike camping? I'm looking for
> > a tent that's somewhat light (< 5 lbs?), warm enough for most
> > California spring/summer/fall nights, and sets up easily.
>
> > -nathan

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[RBW] Re: My new Rodeo

2010-09-13 Thread Bill
I've been riding the same road bike, a Vitus, for the past 28 years.
I started with the Simplex downtube shifters which came on it.  For a
while I had Suntour Accushift butterfly shifters, and then for a long
time, barcons.  Recently I switched back to the downtube shifters
again for a trip down Memory Lane, and boy, it has been a great ride.
I highly recommend that you give them a try.  You may find that you
end up paying more time enjoying the ride and less time unnecessarily
shifting up and down on one-tooth cog differences.

On Sep 13, 5:35 pm, Johnny Alien  wrote:
> > Hey Johnny,
>
> > Downtube shifters are more classic than barcons and lighter too.  A triple
> > really isn't classic, and the bottom bracket and cranks are both heavier
> > than a traditional double or compact double.
>
> > Regards, Doug
>
> > P.S.  No slight intended, but it seems to me like a lot of Roadeos are being
> > built up pretty much the way I would think most AHHs get built up rather
> > than as any lighter than average go-fasties...
>
> I definitely wanted to be more on the racier end but with keeping with
> some classic looks.  I never thought about it but DT shifters might be
> a fantastic idea.  They are very light and more classic than putting
> on brifters. (I didn't want to do barcons).
>
> 100% going to do a compact double.  I'm not sure what to do with the
> FD and RD.  But DT shifters???  You have me leaning this way.

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Re: [RBW] Tent suggestions

2010-09-13 Thread Michael Williams
Sierra Designs Velox 2. its a 3 season tent, sets up super easy, fairly
light, I dont know the specs but Im sure you can find them somewhere. And
you can find them somewhat cheap from nline camping stores. Hope this helps,
Mike

On Mon, Sep 13, 2010 at 1:33 PM, nathan spindel  wrote:

> What's your favorite two-person tent for bike camping? I'm looking for
> a tent that's somewhat light (< 5 lbs?), warm enough for most
> California spring/summer/fall nights, and sets up easily.
>
> -nathan
>
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[RBW] Re: B17 vs Team Pro... any direct comparison wisdom?

2010-09-13 Thread Montclair BobbyB
My original post must have been rejected by the moderator, so I'll
respectfully try again.

A key difference in my opinion is the 3 holes in the top of the B17,
which don't exist on the Swift, Team, etc.  I am convinced this makes
a difference in the overall comfort.  In fact, I LOVE the assorted
colored team Swift and Pro saddles that are circulating out there, and
may consider one at some point, but only if I'm sure I can add
ventilation holes... Hey, if people make their own "Imperial"
versions, I should be able to add 3/16" holes, right?

BB


On Sep 12, 10:59 pm, Thomas Lynn Skean 
wrote:
> Thanks, all. I think what I'm hearing leads me to believe the shape of
> the Team Pro is the biggest "risk" for me; in fact, big enough not to
> experiment right now. On today's 20+ mile ride, my B17 felt great.
> Maybe better than on my last rude. But I'm losing interest in trying
> the Team Pro.
>
> Thanks again for all the info!
>
> Yours,
> Thomas Lynn Skean
>
> On Sep 12, 1:25 pm, Chris Halasz  wrote:
>
>
>
> > From Wallbike, on Flickr:
>
> >http://www.flickr.com/photos/wallblog/sets/72157624333065377/with/477...
>
> > - Chris- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

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[RBW] Roadeos and Downtube Shifters

2010-09-13 Thread Jon Grant
Moot point, right? I mean, I thought the Roadeo didn't have the proper
bosses for downtube shifters. It looks to me like all that¹s there are cable
guides. Like the Blériot. I own a Blériot, and I consider the lack of
downtube shifter bosses its single fault.

--
Jon "Not An Expert" Grant, who should be drawing bobcats in
Austin, Texas




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Re: [RBW] Re: Super-spongy brakes on my AHH - any help?

2010-09-13 Thread cyclotourist
Hi James! :-)

On Mon, Sep 13, 2010 at 3:42 PM, meinertj  wrote:

> Hey Adam,
>
> I've never worked with the Silvers or the Pauls, but I work on a lot
> of older 80's road bikes and often encounter squishy brakes.  Are the
> levers returning to their position because if not it may be a cable
> issue, but it doesn't sound like it.  Are your wheels out of true?
> because if so that could keep you from getting the brake pads as close
> as necessary...
>
> It would be a good idea to get the yokes up as high as you can, but
> maybe there is still a bit of space between your brake pads and the
> rim, if that's then case then...
>
> what I would try is (and this is easier with 2 people) setting your
> yokes all the way down, loosening the bolt that holds your brake cable
> to your Silvers, squeezing the brakes together onto your rims with one
> hand, and pulling the cable as far as you can with your other hand
> (easier with a pair of pliers) and then if you can while still pulling
> the cable retighten the the bolt to your cable... if your wheel can
> still spin after that, then tighten the yokes until your brakes start
> rubbing on the rims and then loosen just a bit.  A travel agent may do
> the trick also, but might be unnecessary.
>
> Hope this helps, it may be just what I do on the old bikes but with
> your better equipment, the problem may be as you said with the
> flexing.  Good luck!
>
> james
>
> (ps. this is my first post, so if it gets past the admins: hello rbw
> owners, i'm james, i live in st. louis, i work on old bikes a lot and
> ride a fuji touring series and i like reading and following this
> group!)
>
> -Original Message-
> >From: Adam Kimball 
> >Sent: Sep 13, 2010 2:21 PM
> >To: RBW Owners Bunch 
> >Subject: [RBW] Super-spongy brakes on my AHH - any help?
>
> >Wow, I'm not having much luck in the brake department with my new
> >ride.  I set up my Hilsen with Silver brakes and found that they
> >simply wouldn't stop me - I could have both levers to the tape and
> >still roll.  So, I changed to Paul Racer's on the advice of my LBS and
> >found that the situation really isn't much better.  Here is where my
> >thinking is at:
>
> >* I'm seeing a lot of flex in the brakes themselves and at the cable
> >hangers.  The rear brake is worse than the front (as is usually the
> >case) but I suspect the inline barrel adjuster and the rear cable
> >hanger (light-weight aluminum one that hangs of the seat-post bolt) is
> >flexing too much.
>
> >* I've brought the yokes up pretty high - I can get them higher, but
> >not much.  So, I'm not certain this is the problem.
>
> >* Brake-pads are the standard black Kool-Stops and I would have to
> >assume they are not the problem
>
> >* My Dura-Ace brake levers are incredibly squishy.  This is one piece
> >of the equation that is common to both setups (Silvers & Racers).  The
> >Racer brakes are indeed short-pull so those road levers should be fine
> >- but I've suspected them before.
>
> >Another mechanic took a look at the brakes and road the bike today.
> >He agreed that the brakes are massively under performing.  He thought
> >that a "travel agent" might help to pull more cable.  He also wanted
> >to re-cable since I cut the rear cable a little short.  He wanted me
> >to find out if Paul makes a stiffener that attaches to the calipers.
>
> >Does anyone have any other ideas for me?  I don't have another AHH to
> >ride, so it is hard for me to know just how bad my brakes are.  Keven
> >at Rivendell didn't think the Racer's are much better than the Silvers
> >for braking (and he has a pair on his Hilsen) and so he wondered what
> >the other problem might be.
>
> >Any help would be greatly appreciated.
>
> >Thanks,
> >Adam
>
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Cheers,
David
Redlands, CA

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Re: [RBW] Re: madison, wi

2010-09-13 Thread Tim McNamara


On Sep 13, 2010, at 5:23 PM, Seth Vidal wrote:

On Mon, Sep 13, 2010 at 6:07 PM, Tim McNamara  
 wrote:
Seth, I'm shocked.  I've been into The Yellow Jersey several times  
and have
always gotten great service.  But since I was dealing with the  
owner each
time, maybe that made a difference (hopefully that wasn't who you  
were
dealing with, in which case color me even more embarrassed for  
recommending

TYJ highly).  You might forward your experience to Andrew Muzi
(am...@yellowjersey.org); he is the owner.



I doubt I was dealing with the owner unless the owner is in his
early/mid 20s. We ended up going to the budget bicycle center where
they had an early 90s burley duet for rent. It has been perfect for us
so far today and we were treated really well there.


Andy is middle aged with long hair and a beard (looks hippy, thinks  
conservative).  He's owned TYJ since 1973 or something like that.  I  
think he'd definitely like to know about this experience as the shop  
is, of course, his livelihood and pissing off the customers is  
usually a bad plan.


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Re: [RBW] Re: D2R2

2010-09-13 Thread cyclotourist
This is just awesome.  Glad the weather was good and it appears to be a
great ride for everyone involved!  My Aunt lives in Hardwick, VT... I might
have to go visit her some September... :-)

On Mon, Sep 13, 2010 at 10:36 AM, Patrick in VT  wrote:

>
>
> On Sep 13, 12:17 pm, "cyclotour...@gmail.com" 
> wrote:
> > A ride for a country bike if there ever was one!
>
> absolutely.  bike choice is all over the place on this ride - but,
> nothing looks quite as right and at home on this ride as a fat tired
> country bike a la rivendell, etc.
>
> > Was it as hot this year as last?  I remember reading about the heat
> > last year, and it sounded oppressive!
>
> weather was cool and comfortable this year, which made the ride more
> enjoyable for many, I'm sure.  A good friend and I went for a swim
> along the ride - it was actually a bit chilly in the Deerfield River
> and I don't think I broke a sweat all afternoon!
>
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>


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Cheers,
David
Redlands, CA

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Re: [RBW] Re: Mickelson Trail Trek?

2010-09-13 Thread Timothy Whalen
Thanks everyone for the good info.  What a great resource this list is for
things like this.  Don't know if I can make it this year but if I do I'll
post a TR.
Cheers,
Tim

On Mon, Sep 13, 2010 at 4:56 PM, erik jensen  wrote:

> i rode it several years ago with a crosscheck on 38mm supremes, you'd be ok
> with less. very fun, not too challenging. a wonderful day spent in pleasant
> surroundings.
>
> erik
>
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Re: [RBW] Roadeos and Downtube Shifters

2010-09-13 Thread Horace
http://www.xo-1.org/2010_03_01_archive.html

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_ny-s_0BbP2k/TCrhFcazt_I/B_o/GJETLa8A48E/s1600/DSC04537.JPG

On Mon, Sep 13, 2010 at 9:03 PM, Jon Grant  wrote:

> Moot point, right? I mean, I thought the Roadeo didn't have the proper
> bosses for downtube shifters. It looks to me like all thatąs there are
> cable
> guides. Like the Blériot. I own a Blériot, and I consider the lack of
> downtube shifter bosses its single fault.
>
> --
> Jon "Not An Expert" Grant, who should be drawing bobcats in
> Austin, Texas
>
>
>
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Super-spongy brakes on my AHH - any help?

2010-09-13 Thread James Warren

I have had a few occasions of poor brake set-up in general, but I have never 
had poor brake performance when using the Shimano Tiagra levers that Rivendell 
sells. And this has been Tiagra levers with cantilevers and with longreach 
sidepulls, one of each of these set-ups currently in action now. ("In action" 
being figurative. I'm not riding as I type this.)

However, I did once try to set up my Atlantis with cantis and an older set of 
Shimano 600 aero brake levers. I couldn't get it working well and gave up. In 
fact, I think I responded by buying a pair of Tiagras.

-Jim W.

-Original Message-
>From: MichaelH 
: Super-spongy brakes on my AHH - any help?
>I have come to the
>conclusion that Shimano levers simply don't draw enough cable to work
>reliably with anything other than short reach shimano brakes.
>
>Michael
>
>
>
>On Sep 13, 5:27 pm, James Warren  wrote:
>> Mark at Rivendell built up my AHH with the Silvers and the Shimano Tiagra 
>> levers that they sell, and the performance is excellent.
>>
>> -Jim W.
>>
>>
>>
>> -Original Message-
>> >From: Adam Kimball 
>> >Sent: Sep 13, 2010 2:21 PM
>> >To: RBW Owners Bunch 
>> >Subject: [RBW] Super-spongy brakes on my AHH - any help?
>>
>> >Wow, I'm not having much luck in the brake department with my new
>> >ride.  I set up my Hilsen with Silver brakes and found that they
>> >simply wouldn't stop me - I could have both levers to the tape and
>> >still roll.  So, I changed to Paul Racer's on the advice of my LBS and
>> >found that the situation really isn't much better.  Here is where my
>> >thinking is at:
>>
>> >* I'm seeing a lot of flex in the brakes themselves and at the cable
>> >hangers.  The rear brake is worse than the front (as is usually the
>> >case) but I suspect the inline barrel adjuster and the rear cable
>> >hanger (light-weight aluminum one that hangs of the seat-post bolt) is
>> >flexing too much.
>>
>> >* I've brought the yokes up pretty high - I can get them higher, but
>> >not much.  So, I'm not certain this is the problem.
>>
>> >* Brake-pads are the standard black Kool-Stops and I would have to
>> >assume they are not the problem
>>
>> >* My Dura-Ace brake levers are incredibly squishy.  This is one piece
>> >of the equation that is common to both setups (Silvers & Racers).  The
>> >Racer brakes are indeed short-pull so those road levers should be fine
>> >- but I've suspected them before.
>>
>> >Another mechanic took a look at the brakes and road the bike today.
>> >He agreed that the brakes are massively under performing.  He thought
>> >that a "travel agent" might help to pull more cable.  He also wanted
>> >to re-cable since I cut the rear cable a little short.  He wanted me
>> >to find out if Paul makes a stiffener that attaches to the calipers.
>>
>> >Does anyone have any other ideas for me?  I don't have another AHH to
>> >ride, so it is hard for me to know just how bad my brakes are.  Keven
>> >at Rivendell didn't think the Racer's are much better than the Silvers
>> >for braking (and he has a pair on his Hilsen) and so he wondered what
>> >the other problem might be.
>>
>> >Any help would be greatly appreciated.
>>
>> >Thanks,
>> >Adam
>>
>> >--
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Re: [RBW] Super-spongy brakes on my AHH - any help?

2010-09-13 Thread CycloFiend
Adam - 

There are an awful lot of variables in that equation...

Unless you are a big guy and running the bike with a lot of additional
baggage, the Silvers and/or the Pauls should stop you, if properly set up.

First off - 

If you are talking about lever feel, "Spongy" brakes actually have plenty of
power.  When they feel hard at the levers, you have to put more power in to
get the same amount of power out - AASHTA (As Always, Sheldon Had the
Answer)

http://sheldonbrown.com/cantilever-geometry.html

(though it is ostensibly about cantilever brakes, the "Mechanical Advantage"
section applies to lever travel, braking power and related topics)

The first place I'd actually look is at those levers.  If you are running
DuraAce, does that mean you have brake/shift combined levers?  If so, there
are a few places that you can introduce play in the system, starting with
how the cable sits into the slot in the levers.  You also have to make sure
there's no gap between the housing and the brake body.

I'm really suprised that you were hittlng the bars without slowing.  On my
Hilsen setup (with aero Shimano brake levers and Silver brakes), I've got a
good inch and a half gap when applied and maybe an inch under a full gorilla
grip. 

As others said, I'd check that you have the correct housing.  And, what the
heck, the cables are correct, right?  Sometimes I've seen mis-marked
packages, or cables with undersized/oddly shaped ends that won't seat
properly or drop in too far.

You don't want to run a travel agent. You shouldn't need to run a travel
agent for a set up like you have. To be brutally blunt, if the mechanic
actually suggested that, I'd consider looking for another opinion.

I also find it odd that he thinks the problem might be with flex in the
brake itself.  That's one thing I have not really heard Paul brakes accused
of.  How high do you have the yoke set?  IIRC, recommended height is 1-2"
above the brake arms.

The last comment about flex at the cable stop is a bit confusing.  You
really shouldn't be seeing any flex until the brake pads are firmly down
against the rim. At which point, you should be stopping pretty effectively.
Do you mean there's a lot of friction when you are pulling the levers,
before the pads hit the rim?

Once you get the lever issues and setup variables out of the way, then the
only other advice I'd offer is that the salmon pads or the half/half
salmon/black pads seem to work best for me. But, it doesn't sound like the
pad compound is really the issue.

hope that helps a bit,

- Jim

-- 
Jim Edgar
cyclofi...@earthlink.net

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[RBW] Re: Mickelson Trail Trek?

2010-09-13 Thread Tony
I just rode part of the Mickelson on Saturday with a friend.  The
trail is in super condition, packed hard and very smooth.  Very few
loose spots on the trail.  I ride a Bleriot and have ridden this trail
many times.  Low grade, beautiful trail and the weekend weather looks
favorable to a great ride.  Come to the Black Hills and enjoy the
Mickelson.  (lots of new single track mountain biking in the hills
too!)

Tony

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