[RBW] alternative color hoods for tektro drop bar V-brake levers
Hi, all! Anyone know of a source for other-than-black hoods for the drop bar linear-pull brake levers that RBW sells? I think those levers are Tektro RL-520 model levers. I know Dia-Compe has some drop bar linear-pull brake levers that are available with either black or brown hoods; but even for those I don't know where to get replacement hoods. And the levers cost more. And I don't know if I'd like their shape as much as the Tektros, which feel pretty good to me. Thanks! Yours, Thomas Lynn Skean -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: What a beautiful hub!
> At those prices, one can easily consider White Industries or DT hubs with > the Campagnolo- > splined freehub body. Or perhaps Phils with a Shimano/SRAM cassette > and a J-tek device. Royce are easily as shiney as the penultimate Campy hub line. They have a sleeker design than the White and Phils. They do not have much of a dealer network outside of Europe. But with the magic of the internet and FedEx you can get your Royce hubs and parts in the U.S. almost as soon as someone living in the UK. On Aug 8, 10:29 pm, benzzoy wrote: > On Aug 8, 5:24 am, PATRICK MOORE wrote: > > > Stiill, it's beautiful, and we just move the aesthetics cutoff a few years > > forward. So this hub would date from when? > > The polished Campagnolo hubs with the allen bearing adjustment were > available from '99 to '06. You can still occasionally find these on > eBay and in the dusty corners of old-time shops but they are usually > quite expensive. As examples, on Aug 1, a 28-hole hub set went for > $643 and a 32-hole set went for $481 on eBay. Heck, another bidder > paid $130.50 just for the skewers from that era! At those prices, one > can easily consider White Industries or DT hubs with the Campagnolo- > splined freehub body. Or perhaps Phils with a Shimano/SRAM cassette > and a J-tek device. > > But yes, the polished Campagnolo hubs are quite nice looking, quite > lightweight and quite durable. The functionality/serviceability is > second to none. > > -B -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
Re: [RBW] Re: Hillborne or Hunqapillar
On Sun, Aug 8, 2010 at 9:55 PM, ewb wrote: > However, I am a little concerned by the posts that > I've read (by a small minority of owners) that the Hillborne ride > quality can degrade under load; the fact that the latest version of > the Waterford 56cm Hillborne has 2 top tubes seems to confirm that > this is a potential issue. In my own experience, the SH handles loads pretty well, though it is obviously not as stiff as a full on touring bike. Keven pointed out the tubing difference to me between it and the Atlantis when I talked to him about a bike for touring; but, in addition to getting a very good deal on the shop floor SH, I wanted a lighter framed bike for all round riding. Of course, when you get up to 50 lb you can feel the flex, but for me that is not really a problem; as I often report, I carry 40 lb loads on a much flexier, light-531 1973 Motobecane Grande Record. My problem with the SH is that the front end seems light and tends to wander slightly compared to my other bikes; and this both loaded (rear load only; light front load) and unloaded -- I first noticed it unloaded, in fact. How much of this is due to my seating position, which is far back, combined with the relatively long tt and high bar compared to my other road bikes , I don't know, but I wonder if this -- ie, less weight than optimal on the front wheel -- is the principal reason. (I also have a long torso and short-arms -- compared to knee scratching Anglos, anyway -- which may tend to increase a rearward weight bias.) The other problem is that, compared to my other road bikes, including the Motobecane, the SH just feels heavy and sluggish; doubtless some of this is due simply to its weight which, with all the accouterments, is considerable. But as others have said, if I just shut up and ride the thing for a week, I'll probably not notice the handling any more. -- Patrick Moore Albuquerque, NM For professional resumes, contact Patrick Moore, ACRW at resumespecialt...@gmail.com -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Hong Kong to Shanghai
I made this tour earlier this summer for my 50th birthday. At that time I was not a member of this group or I would have posted it here at that time. This was an absolute death march tour with the rains and flooding this summer in China. I am sorry about the lack of pictures but the description explains what happened to our only camera. I did this tour on the Sam Hillborne http://forums.roadbikereview.com/showthread.php?t=216917&highlight=hong+kong+to+shanghai -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Photos from 2010 Marin Century
Jim, Thank you, wish I were there. Ron On Aug 8, 11:34 pm, cyclofiend wrote: > Hey all - > > Spent a few hours rolling around Marin and Sonoma counties on > Saturday, at the annual running of the Marin Century. Had the Hilsen > all spiffed up and ready to go on the ride, which I'd anticipated > doing with Gino. Alas, 'twas not to be, and after a bit of will-I/ > won't-I monologues, I rolled out to the start. > > Photos here - > > http://www.flickr.com/photos/cyclofiend/sets/72157624557990317 > > Hopefully, I'll get a gap in the schedule this week to cobble together > a bit more of a ride report. > > In the meantime, enjoy! > > - Jim -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: shoulda turned left
It's not an adventure if you don't get lost! philip williamson www.biketinker.com On Aug 8, 5:06 pm, Seth Vidal wrote: > Went out for a bit of a ride today and decided to veer from my charted > course to see what this one hill I'd heard about was like. > > So I swung a right on borland and climbed for a good bit. Then a bit > more. then it leveled out and made a bend, then it went up a ways > further. I eventually reached the top and realized i had no idea where > I was. :) > > Eventually found a road I recognized but having no idea which end of > the road I was on I soldiered on. I shoulda turned left on dimmocks > hill, but oh well, it worked out nicely enough. What should have been > 25 miles ended up being 35 but, bah, what's being lost for 10 miles > > The romulus felt great and while at first I didn't like the jack > browns I'm coming around to them. I like the noise they make on slick > asphalt and the lack of debris they seem to collect. > > Things felt pretty good and the only pain I'm experiencing at this > minute is directly related to the 2 hours of weeding > > A few pics from today: > > http://www.flickr.com/photos/skvidal/tags/turnedthewrongwayoffofborland/ > > -sv -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
Re: [RBW] Re: Shimmy!
on 8/8/10 4:12 AM, MichaelH at mhech...@gmail.com wrote: > > Lots of interesting thoughts and suggestions here. I haven't heard > from anyone who thinks the very narrow tires might have contributed to > it. Tires can definitely be a factor. Ride buddy JimG had consistent shimmy issues on his Kog P/R 700C and reduced them by (among other things) using larger tires. He'd posted about them over on the iBob list and blogged about them as well. http://sfcyclotouring.blogspot.com/search?q=shimmy - Jim -- Jim Edgar cyclofi...@earthlink.net Cyclofiend Bicycle Photo Galleries - http://www.cyclofiend.com Current Classics - Cross Bikes Singlespeed - Working Bikes -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
Re: [RBW] Re: Shimmy!
on 8/8/10 12:21 PM, MichaelH at mhech...@gmail.com wrote: > Up till yesterday the Rambouillet has had > impeccable road manners. I don't think I would buy a second bike from > someone who had sold me a frame with built in shimmy. True shimmy is a reproduceable event. There is typically a specific speed that it starts at - not necessarily "fast". It also has a lot of variables, and it doesn't seem like anyone has ever actually nailed them down. Jobst, Sheldon, etc... a little more forward weight, a little less tire pressure, slightly tighter headset all change things, it appears. It sounds like the event could have been more of a "wobble" - maybe caused by specific circumstances than intrinsic behavior. I've had that happen once and have never been able to reproduce it. (wet road descent, heavily rear loaded, uneven but smooth road surface, who-knows-what-else...) - J -- Jim Edgar cyclofi...@earthlink.net Cyclofiend Bicycle Photo Galleries - http://www.cyclofiend.com Current Classics - Cross Bikes Singlespeed - Working Bikes Gallery updates now appear here - http://cyclofiend.blogspot.com "Then I sat up, wiped the water out of my eyes, and looked at my bike, and just like that I knew it was dead" -- Robert McCammon, "Boy's Life" -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
Re: [RBW] mixed terrain ride in Rocky Mtn. Nat. Park
on 8/6/10 10:27 AM, J. Burkhalter at burk...@yahoo.com wrote: > Great ride with very light and courteous traffic on the dirt road up. > The descent down Trail Ridge is super nice on the new asphalt. Great > clouds, a little light rain, and some bull elk! The Bleriot with > fatties and fenders was the perfect choice for the day. Here are some > pics... > > http://tinyurl.com/29jnmq5 Wow. Jay, those are great images. What a wonderful ride! How the heck to you breathe up at that altitude? - J -- Jim Edgar cyclofi...@earthlink.net Cyclofiend Bicycle Photo Galleries - http://www.cyclofiend.com Current Classics - Cross Bikes Singlespeed - Working Bikes "Whatever you do will be insignificant, but it is very important that you do it." Mahatma Gandhi -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Hillborne or Hunqapillar
Ernie , For perspective ... of course you're going to hear that the Sam frame is best for you because people here have them, I don't think anyone owns a Hunqapillar yet. Who's going to tell you how great it is if they don't own it? I ride the Bombadil on the road with 42mm tires and it doesn't feel sluggish or any less nimble than my pure road bikes. the only time I notice it weigh more is when I put it on my repair stand. The rest is all between my ears. I like the feel of the bigger tires as my local roads range from pavement to broken patch paved roads, to chunky, pot hole ridden gravel roads. I thought the extra stiffness of the frame may be a downside, but it is very compliant and I've never felt so good on a bike. Any bike. Just because a frame may *appear" to be too stiff/too stout or whatever, don't let that sway you into thinking you won't like it. The two frames have rather different geometry, top tubes are way different .. maybe look at the one that fits you best. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Shimmy!
Hello Angus, et al, The scenario is this: I’m riding Angus’ Quickbeam down Italy Turnpike outside Naples, New York. Your Quickbeam has just been serviced by a great mechanic. The frame is straight; the wheels are perfect; the tires are perfect; this headset is perfect. By coincidence, the fit is perfect. I have my spare tube and a set of allen wrenches in a little bag under my saddle. It’s a cold, sunny spring morning, and I’m shivering slightly. The fast guys are pulling away from me at 53 mph. I hit a bump in the road hidden by a shadow from a tree. I tense up and apply the brakes a little. I sit down reflexively to lower my center of gravity, which we all do when it looks like we are going to fall. To not do this requires extraordinary will power and confidence. Instantly, your Quickbeam starts to shake violently. My arms go stiff, and I grip the brakes harder to make it stop, but of course all this makes it shake harder. No one has been able to satisfactorily explain this phenomenon. Many have tried; all have failed. I watched the video that Jim G made of his bike shimmy. I couldn’t make a video of this on a big descent, because I can’t do anything when it starts. It’s progressive. It’s violent. It’s profoundly frightening. My 55 cm Raleigh with oversize aluminum tubing does this. My 59 cm Peugeot PX-10 with one-inch top tube does this. All bikes do this, when I am the rider. All of my bikes do this at almost any speed, even 15 mph, but the story ends differently at lower speeds, because I’m not frightened out of my wits at 15 mph. To stay relaxed on a bike that going fast and going out of control is very difficult. When the gradient ahead is INCREASING, it’s even more difficult. Experience, skill, confidence, will power. Sometimes I have these at my disposal, sometimes not. Regards, Bob Cooper -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
Re: [RBW] Re: Shimmy!
Does this only happen when you brake and goes away if you stop braking? Does I happen in bikes with canti brakes but not on bikes with sidepull brakes? I've had this problem only on a Gunnar with canti brakes. Have yet to descend fast on the Atlantis to see if it will happen. Front cantilever brakes when applied hard at high speeds produce this effect due to fork flex and forces applied when braking as the fork flexes and extends back repeatedly (my crude explanation). The first time this happened to me on a long fast descent it scared me badly as I thought the fork was broken (carbon). This doesn't seem to happen with sidepulls as they are bolted where there is no fork flex. I'm pretty sure brake type, leverage, pads, rim quality are some additional variables that play a role here. A highly modulating brake setup should help. There was very little modulation on the Gunnar setup compared to how I've now learned to set up high profile cantis after doing some research. René On 8/9/10, Bob Cooper wrote: > Hello Angus, et al, > > The scenario is this: > > I’m riding Angus’ Quickbeam down Italy Turnpike outside Naples, New > York. > > Your Quickbeam has just been serviced by a great mechanic. The frame > is straight; the wheels are perfect; the tires are perfect; this > headset is perfect. By coincidence, the fit is perfect. > > I have my spare tube and a set of allen wrenches in a little bag under > my saddle. > > It’s a cold, sunny spring morning, and I’m shivering slightly. > > The fast guys are pulling away from me at 53 mph. > > I hit a bump in the road hidden by a shadow from a tree. > > I tense up and apply the brakes a little. I sit down reflexively to > lower my center of gravity, which we all do when it looks like we are > going to fall. To not do this requires extraordinary will power and > confidence. > > Instantly, your Quickbeam starts to shake violently. > > My arms go stiff, and I grip the brakes harder to make it stop, but of > course all this makes it shake harder. > > No one has been able to satisfactorily explain this phenomenon. Many > have tried; all have failed. > > I watched the video that Jim G made of his bike shimmy. I couldn’t > make a video of this on a big descent, because I can’t do anything > when it starts. It’s progressive. It’s violent. It’s profoundly > frightening. > > My 55 cm Raleigh with oversize aluminum tubing does this. My 59 cm > Peugeot PX-10 with one-inch top tube does this. > > All bikes do this, when I am the rider. > > All of my bikes do this at almost any speed, even 15 mph, but the > story ends differently at lower speeds, because I’m not frightened out > of my wits at 15 mph. To stay relaxed on a bike that going fast and > going out of control is very difficult. When the gradient ahead is > INCREASING, it’s even more difficult. > > Experience, skill, confidence, will power. > > Sometimes I have these at my disposal, sometimes not. > > Regards, > > Bob Cooper > > -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > "RBW Owners Bunch" group. > To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to > rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. > For more options, visit this group at > http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. > > -- Sent from my mobile device -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: What a beautiful hub!
On Aug 9, 2:34 am, JoelMatthews wrote: > > At those prices, one can easily consider White Industries or DT hubs with > > the Campagnolo- > > splined freehub body. Or perhaps Phils with a Shimano/SRAM cassette > > and a J-tek device. > > Royce are easily as shiney as the penultimate Campy hub line. They > have a sleeker design than the White and Phils. > > They do not have much of a dealer network outside of Europe. But with > the magic of the internet and FedEx you can get your Royce hubs and > parts in the U.S. almost as soon as someone living in the UK. > Thanks, nice hub. Total Cycling sells the rear cassette hub for about $255: http://www.totalcycling.com/index.php/product/parts_accessories/hubs_road/HB_ROYCE_CAMPAG.html?action=currency&id=USD&shopsession=m52jmul7o6npvpvg04ravnuoo3 I wonder how loud is the hub when coasting? Shimano is still king as it is the quietest. Good Luck! -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
Re: [RBW] Re: Shimmy!
On Mon, 2010-08-09 at 08:44 -0700, Bob Cooper wrote: > It’s a cold, sunny spring morning, and I’m shivering slightly. That right there is enough to initiate a shimmy. > I hit a bump in the road hidden by a shadow from a tree. > > I tense up And per the FAQ that itself is a contributing factor in shimmy. > and apply the brakes a little. I sit down reflexively to > lower my center of gravity, which we all do when it looks like we are > going to fall. To not do this requires extraordinary will power and > confidence. > > Instantly, your Quickbeam starts to shake violently. > > My arms go stiff, and I grip the brakes harder to make it stop, but of > course all this makes it shake harder. Quoting from the FAQ: > Shimmy that concerns riders the most occurs with hands firmly on the > bars and it is rider generated by muscular effect whose natural > response is the same as the shimmy frequency, about that of Human > shivering. Descending in cold weather can be difficult for this > reason. The rider's "death grip" only enhances the incidence of > shimmy in this situation. Loosely holding the bars between thumb and > forefinger is a way of avoiding shimmy when cold. -- http://www.faqs.org/faqs/bicycles-faq/part4/section-25.html Plenty more good info about this phenomenon at the above URL. > > No one has been able to satisfactorily explain this phenomenon. Many > have tried; all have failed. On the contrary, although some aspects are a bit mysterious the FAQ has lots of successful explanation. > I watched the video that Jim G made of his bike shimmy. I couldn’t > make a video of this on a big descent, because I can’t do anything > when it starts. It’s progressive. It’s violent. It’s profoundly > frightening. Your description fits classic speed wobble perfectly. If so, it's NOT what JimG had. That's the "other" kind of shimmy. And by the way, I agree, there's little in life that's more frightening than speed wobble. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Shimmy!
René, Thanks for the comments. However, I doubt that brake design has much of an effect on shimmy. By the way, here I define “shimmy” as a mind-numbing terror at an oscillation of maybe 120 cycles per second and an imminent crash. “Shimmy” sounds like a silly dance that they did in the 1920s, but that’s what we call it. My eight or more bikes have cantis, center-pulls and side-pulls. It’s just that it’s tricky to apply the brakes without also tensioning the arms and upper body just a little. (At least until Campy comes out with that new, mind-controlled braking system, which I hear is slated for the new, fourteen-speed group.) Jobst is the only person who has shed enough light on this problem of mine that, when I actually apply his advise, it has an effect. All praise to Jobst for that post to the FAQ all those years ago. http://sheldonbrown.com/brandt/shimmy.html Essentially what he says is that, unless there is an egregious problem with the bike, for example, loaded heavily and improperly, broken frame member, wheel an inch out of true, et cetera, it’s the rider who propagates a shimmy that was initiated by a gust of wind, a bump, or such. Jobst: “...steering action twists the top tube and down tube, storing energy...” He didn’t use this analogy, but one way to think about it is as if the frame were a guitar string that has been plucked. The string vibrates, because the energy provided by the guitarist is alternately stored and released as the metal, gut or nylon string alternately pulls against the two anchor points. A string lying flaccid on the neck of the guitar, loosened at one end, will not vibrate harmonically. Without two anchor points, a guitar string has no method for storing and releasing energy -- vibrating. Rider skill and confidence are the key to solving this. When I am already going 50 mph on a strange road, and when I look ahead and see a drop (the gradient increases precipitously), I tend to grab for the brakes. That grab, in a sense, tightens the guitar string. Last month I descended a hill only to see a hairpin turn completely covered from grass to grass with fine sand. (Et cetera. Fill in your own emergency scenario.) Tense up. Apply Brakes. Shimmy. My pals, who went through the same turn much faster, I’m sure, and half an hour earlier, didn’t even remember it. After some prodding, one of them seemed to recall what I meant and then mumbled something about mountain biking. It’s the rider. Hope this helps, Bob -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
Re: [RBW] Re: Shimmy!
On Mon, Aug 9, 2010 at 10:32, Bob Cooper wrote: > Jobst is the only person who has shed enough light on this problem of > mine that, when I actually apply his advise, it has an effect. All > praise to Jobst for that post to the FAQ all those years ago. > http://sheldonbrown.com/brandt/shimmy.html We have discussed shimmy at much length over on the iBOB list. My opinion is that there is a distinction between what I term "speed wobble", which is what you get coasting down a hill at very high speeds, and "shimmy", which is what you get when you ride along at 16 mph no-hands. In terms of physics, they might be the same phenomenon, but it seems like bikes are often prone to one or the other, so I think there is good basis for the distinction. I think low-trail bikes are more prone to shimmy, and high-trail bikes relatively more prone to speed wobble. I would expect Rivendells to be more prone to speed wobble - the high trail geometries that started to supplant lower trail geometries a few decades ago seem to have been motivated in part by a desire to eliminate garden-variety shimmy. Pretty much all my bikes exhibit shimmy under some circumstances, and most of my road bikes can shimmy if I ride along no-hands, even when coasting. It's hard to imagine that it's something I am doing as a rider if I am not even pedaling. My low-trail bikes all shimmy riding no-hands, particularly when loaded. Flexible racks contribute to this phenomenon. My mid-trail Centurion hasn't shimmied, but I also don't have any racks on it. I did find recently a slight speed wobble while coasting down a steep hill, though. My 20"-wheeled Swift Folder is the only bike I have that has never shimmied, but it's a fixed gear, so I have never tried going 40 mph down a hill on it. My 20"-wheeled cargo bike shimmies ferociously, so I know it's not the wheel size, but the frame flex characteristics. I think Jobst's description is lacking, because it only addresses the speed wobble aspect, and not the shimmy aspect of this phenomenon. James Black -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Need 650b Tires
Alright, so one vote for CDLV, one for Fatty Rumpkin and one for Nifty Swifty. LOL! :D -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: What a beautiful hub!
> I wonder how loud is the hub when coasting? Shimano is still king as > it is the quietest. The Freewheel Royce at least are pretty quiet. I do not recall ever riding a bike with Shimano hubs. Maybe I have, just do not remember. The Royce are easily as quiet as my Maxi-Car, which is a rather quiet hub. On Aug 9, 12:21 pm, bfd wrote: > On Aug 9, 2:34 am, JoelMatthews wrote:> > At those > prices, one can easily consider White Industries or DT hubs with the > Campagnolo- > > > splined freehub body. Or perhaps Phils with a Shimano/SRAM cassette > > > and a J-tek device. > > > Royce are easily as shiney as the penultimate Campy hub line. They > > have a sleeker design than the White and Phils. > > > They do not have much of a dealer network outside of Europe. But with > > the magic of the internet and FedEx you can get your Royce hubs and > > parts in the U.S. almost as soon as someone living in the UK. > > Thanks, nice hub. Total Cycling sells the rear cassette hub for about > $255: > > http://www.totalcycling.com/index.php/product/parts_accessories/hubs_... > > I wonder how loud is the hub when coasting? Shimano is still king as > it is the quietest. Good Luck! -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] walk on art/ride on art
On the morning coffee run I noticed this outside my coffee shop: http://www.flickr.com/photos/skvidal/4875065709/in/pool-64927...@n00/ it's where I normally park my bike and I thought the juxstaposition of the walk-on art (the picture) and the ride-on art (the atlantis) was nice. :) -sv -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Need 650b Tires
Okay, I'll try to help but I can't promise anything :) I've used the NSs and CdlVs extensively for commuting, mixed terrain riding, long- distance road riding, and camping. IMO, both make fine commuting tires. One thing I'd like to make a point about is that I think the bike you are riding and what kind of ride characteristics you enjoy ought to dictate your choice. For instance, on my Kogswell P/R, which is low-trail (40mm) and heavy (34 lbs. in porteur mode), the NSs sucked when I used the bike for commuting on rough and dirty city streets. I found the ride harsh, and the PSI window was very narrow at around 5 PSI. I had them at around 50 and once they reached 45, I would definitely feel some sluggishness. I swapped out the NSs on the Kogswell for CdlVs and have not looked back. The ride was nicer both comfort-wise and in handling and stability, and I felt faster. Note that I found both tires durable as I've only had one flat with the both of them combined (a construction staple in one of the CdlVs was the cause). I also have the CdlVs on my Ebisu, which is also low trail (~45mm?), and has racks and fenders, etc. (~27 lbs). I ask more performance-wise out of the Ebisu than I do the Kogswell, and found the CdlVs to be fine: the bike handles, climbs, descends really nicely. Caveat: I haven't tried different tires on this bike. Finally, I have NSs on my Quickbeam (~22 lbs.) and love them. I use the Quickbeam for commuting and mixed terrain rides. The NSs suffered a bit from the slickness on gravel. But, on hardpack and on the rough streets of the Bay Area, they work just fine. I tried some Hetres on the Quickbeam and they totally killed the nimbless and quickness of the bike. When I put the NSs back on, the bike returned to being a joyful, fast ride. And again, I've never had a flat on them. Oh yeah, I know Franklyn has used the FRs on mixed terrain rides and long distance rides on his Kogswell P/R, and knowing him, he would have changed them if they weren't up to the task or fun. So, I think it'd be interesting to hear what bike you'll be using for commuting and what kind of ride you want from it. Or you looking to optimize the ride for a particular feature: Speed? Comfort? Thrills? Durability? Robustness? Geez, sorry for going overboard--I can talk about tires all day, obviously, haha. Best, Lee On Aug 9, 11:14 am, d2mini wrote: > Alright, so one vote for CDLV, one for Fatty Rumpkin and one for Nifty > Swifty. LOL! :D -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] A basket/saddlebag setup on a Saluki
I'm wanting to try a couple S24Os this summer, and I'm heading toward a basket-in-front and saddlebag-in-rear setup. I ordered a Medium Wald basket from Rivendell. Smaller than I expected, but it fits perfectly on a Mark's rack. My guess is that the Medium size is about optimum for a high trail bike, as far as how much stuff I'd want to pack into it before negatively affecting the steering, or running into that "how do I mount my light" question. Is that so? I have a rear Tubus "Fly" in stainless steel as a rear rack at the moment which I now use with usually a single Ortleib back roller for commuting, but would like to replace that setup with a saddlebag like a Nelson Long Flap or Sackville Large for camping trips, while using the basket to carry the commuting load. Purely a style issue. :) That kind of setup just looks "right" on the Rivs I've seen riding around town. Rob in Seattle -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Need 650b Tires
Thanks, Lee! Not overboard at all. ;) These will be going on my Homer. I currently have just the rear rack installed with an Arkel Tail Rider and I switch back and forth between a side pannier and a messenger bag depending on my mood. Usually I'm only carrying clothes and other odd/ends for the day, no touring, strictly commuting. I'm looking for durability, comfort and speed, probably in that order. But speed is still important, just the least of the three. In other words, I don't want something that is *noticeably* sluggish compared to the NS. But if it's really slight and I'm gaining something somewhere else, than that's ok. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Root beer Rambouillet
I'm currently the high bidder, and have been for several days. I doubt that my current bid will win, but I really do want it and will put it right to use if I do win. If somebody does outbid my current max bid I will most likely bid again. If anyone here on the list is planning to blow me out of the water at the end, please let me know to save me the stress of hitting refresh 16,000 times. If you are on the fence whether to bid or not, I vote that you let it go, so I can win it. :) Bill On Aug 4, 10:26 am, Will wrote: > < nicer. >> > > I was thinking the same, only I can think of a number of frames from > the 1970s that had this and other variants of brown. > > When is someone going to put a 62-cm Ramb up for auction (or FS on > this list)? I've been looking for 1.5 years and still nothing... > > Will > > On Aug 4, 10:47 am, JoelMatthews wrote: > > > Looks nice - but that is a problem for me. > > > If seller were offering in scratched up mode it would have been the > > perfect candidate to buy and fit with posts for the Braze on Paul > > Racer M. > > > As it is, I would hate to strip off the new paint job. > > > On Aug 3, 11:31 pm, rcnute wrote: > > > > Wow, I love this color! I don't think I've seen a Rivendell like > > > this. http://tiny.cc/wreyu > > > > Ryan > > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: A basket/saddlebag setup on a Saluki
FWIW, on my 56cm Hillborne I ran a Nitto Mini/Platrack in front with a R14 and a Saddlesack Large in back for my S24O on Mt Diablo. The tent, sleeping bag, and thermarest lashed to the platrack in front. Everything else went in the Saddlesack. Worked great, including no hands riding. A picture of the setup is here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/45758...@n04/4842030882/ On Aug 9, 12:04 pm, Rob Harrison wrote: > I'm wanting to try a couple S24Os this summer, and I'm heading toward > a basket-in-front and saddlebag-in-rear setup. I ordered a Medium > Wald basket from Rivendell. Smaller than I expected, but it fits > perfectly on a Mark's rack. My guess is that the Medium size is about > optimum for a high trail bike, as far as how much stuff I'd want to > pack into it before negatively affecting the steering, or running into > that "how do I mount my light" question. Is that so? > > I have a rear Tubus "Fly" in stainless steel as a rear rack at the > moment which I now use with usually a single Ortleib back roller for > commuting, but would like to replace that setup with a saddlebag like > a Nelson Long Flap or Sackville Large for camping trips, while using > the basket to carry the commuting load. Purely a style issue. :) That > kind of setup just looks "right" on the Rivs I've seen riding around > town. > > Rob in Seattle -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Root beer Rambouillet
I was on the fence but came to the realization I don't need another Riv at this point in my life. So I'm out. Good Luck Bill! On Aug 9, 3:42 pm, William wrote: > I'm currently the high bidder, and have been for several days. I > doubt that my current bid will win, but I really do want it and will > put it right to use if I do win. If somebody does outbid my current > max bid I will most likely bid again. > > If anyone here on the list is planning to blow me out of the water at > the end, please let me know to save me the stress of hitting refresh > 16,000 times. If you are on the fence whether to bid or not, I vote > that you let it go, so I can win it. :) > > Bill > > On Aug 4, 10:26 am, Will wrote: > > > > > < > nicer. >> > > > I was thinking the same, only I can think of a number of frames from > > the 1970s that had this and other variants of brown. > > > When is someone going to put a 62-cm Ramb up for auction (or FS on > > this list)? I've been looking for 1.5 years and still nothing... > > > Will > > > On Aug 4, 10:47 am, JoelMatthews wrote: > > > > Looks nice - but that is a problem for me. > > > > If seller were offering in scratched up mode it would have been the > > > perfect candidate to buy and fit with posts for the Braze on Paul > > > Racer M. > > > > As it is, I would hate to strip off the new paint job. > > > > On Aug 3, 11:31 pm, rcnute wrote: > > > > > Wow, I love this color! I don't think I've seen a Rivendell like > > > > this. http://tiny.cc/wreyu > > > > > Ryan- Hide quoted text - > > - Show quoted text - -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Rear Derailleur Capacity Limits
To conclude the thread, I purchased a Shimano LX M581 rear derailleur for the bike. Wow how modern derailleurs have improved. The spring action is super light, the pulley cage is 2cm. longer than the vintage Deore was,allowing for a 45t capacity, up from the 38t of the Deore. Needless to say, it handles everything just fine. Plenty of clearance. I notice easier shifting in friction. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Grant discounts the value of top tube length
In the most recent step on the frame-drawing tutorial, Grant stated more directly than I can recall his feeling about top tube length: "It's not the key, or even a key dimension. It matters, but not nearly as much as other things, or as much as people think it does. Bar height affects how far you have to reach to the bar more than top tube length does. Seat tube angle affects reach, too. But at some point yep, you gotta pick a top tube length." On every bicycle forum on the planet, including this one, there will be numerous posters who emphatically state that top tube length is the single most important dimension on a bike, and that frame size itself should be stated as a top tube length dimension rather than a seat tube length dimension. I know I used to be convinced of that thinking and am only beginning to accept the possibility of an alternative. The fact is, everybody wants to know what the top tube length is, so Grant lists it. If handlebar height is way more important, then I wonder why Grant/Riv don't propose a way to quantify that characteristic on a frame or a bike. I can't think of an easy way to do it, either. Is it just the altitude of the headset locknut with a particular normal tire? Is it the x,y coordinates of the headset locknut relative to (0,0) placed at the center of the BB? -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
Re: [RBW] A basket/saddlebag setup on a Saluki
Rob - I've got a Hilsen with the medium Wald and medium Shopsack that I used for commuting, shopping for about 8 months this past winter. Worked super great, but I got restless, and picked up some Acorn bags (rando front, and lg saddlebag). I like them, but for commuting, random donut/beer/wine gathering journeys, this combo was less versatile for me. I like the rando bag, but I will likely just use it on longer rides and touring. For day-to-day work, it's the basket (just put it back on this weekend). I also like the Riv bags in terms of usability/looks. I don't have any of their bigger saddle bags, but I would probably trade my Acorn at this point for a small or medium Sackville Saddlesack. One opinion... Brian Seattle, WA On Mon, Aug 9, 2010 at 12:04 PM, Rob Harrison wrote: > I'm wanting to try a couple S24Os this summer, and I'm heading toward a > basket-in-front and saddlebag-in-rear setup. I ordered a Medium Wald basket > from Rivendell. Smaller than I expected, but it fits perfectly on a Mark's > rack. My guess is that the Medium size is about optimum for a high trail > bike, as far as how much stuff I'd want to pack into it before negatively > affecting the steering, or running into that "how do I mount my light" > question. Is that so? > > I have a rear Tubus "Fly" in stainless steel as a rear rack at the moment > which I now use with usually a single Ortleib back roller for commuting, but > would like to replace that setup with a saddlebag like a Nelson Long Flap or > Sackville Large for camping trips, while using the basket to carry the > commuting load. Purely a style issue. :) That kind of setup just looks > "right" on the Rivs I've seen riding around town. > > Rob in Seattle > > > > -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > "RBW Owners Bunch" group. > To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to > rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com > . > For more options, visit this group at > http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. > > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
Re: [RBW] Re: Shimmy!
on 8/9/10 9:15 AM, Rene Sterental at orthie...@gmail.com wrote: > Does this only happen when you brake and goes away if you stop braking? > > Does I happen in bikes with canti brakes but not on bikes with sidepull > brakes? > > I've had this problem only on a Gunnar with canti brakes. Have yet to > descend fast on the Atlantis to see if it will happen. Front > cantilever brakes when applied hard at high speeds produce this effect > due to fork flex and forces applied when braking as the fork flexes > and extends back repeatedly (my crude explanation). > > The first time this happened to me on a long fast descent it scared me > badly as I thought the fork was broken (carbon). > > This doesn't seem to happen with sidepulls as they are bolted where > there is no fork flex. I'm pretty sure brake type, leverage, pads, rim > quality are some additional variables that play a role here. A highly > modulating brake setup should help. There was very little modulation > on the Gunnar setup compared to how I've now learned to set up high > profile cantis after doing some research. Rene - It sounds like what you are describing is canti-induced fork "chatter", as opposed to a shimmy. They are certainly similar in causing significant vibration, but quite different with respect to cause. My old (non-riv) CX bike did this heroically. To paraphrase other posts on other lists, basically, what you have is a flexing - either at the posts, through the legs or through the hanger - that hanger flex probably more than anything. This causes a micro-release not dissimilar to an automotive anti-lock brake. So, you are in effect releasing and stopping the rim at high frequency. It's more a fore-aft motion. Shimmy is well described in the Jobst posts that Steve cited. The vibration is different - more of an oscillation, and doesn't institute by braking. http://www.faqs.org/faqs/bicycles-faq/part4/section-25.html I've ridden alongside JimG when it occurs. He could forecast quite accurately when it was about to happen. Also, he could move above that speed and have it level out again, IIRC. - Jim - -- Jim Edgar cyclofi...@earthlink.net Cyclofiend Bicycle Photo Galleries - http://www.cyclofiend.com Current Classics - Cross Bikes Singlespeed - Working Bikes Gallery updates now appear here - http://cyclofiend.blogspot.com "There were messengers who named their bikes, but Chevette never would have done that, and somehow because she did think about it like it was something alive." William Gibson - "Virtual Light" -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Wow! There's an Atlantis under there somewhre
http://www.flickr.com/photos/37542...@n04/4815789734/ -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Root beer Rambouillet
Hope you win, but let me add please... I can never quite understand the eBay "Refresh-n-Stress" method of bidding. Recently I've won a coupla things on The Bay, and even more recently I've sold [and am selling] a metric poop-ton of high end drums & cymbals... and it seems to me that it's logical to approach these sorts of things with two thoughts: 1. Know your limit, your budget, what you are willing to go to... and then that's that. And then... 2. Just use something like 'Snipe It' [which is a legal eBay bidding device]. And really, that's it. PS-> You can read more about 'Snipe It' here [and download it too, if interested]... https://www.myibay.com/ Just a suggestion to minimize stress and such... -Scott On Aug 9, 1:42 pm, William wrote: > I'm currently the high bidder, and have been for several days. I > doubt that my current bid will win, but I really do want it and will > put it right to use if I do win. If somebody does outbid my current > max bid I will most likely bid again. > > If anyone here on the list is planning to blow me out of the water at > the end, please let me know to save me the stress of hitting refresh > 16,000 times. If you are on the fence whether to bid or not, I vote > that you let it go, so I can win it. :) > > Bill > > On Aug 4, 10:26 am, Will wrote: > > > < > nicer. >> > > > I was thinking the same, only I can think of a number of frames from > > the 1970s that had this and other variants of brown. > > > When is someone going to put a 62-cm Ramb up for auction (or FS on > > this list)? I've been looking for 1.5 years and still nothing... > > > Will > > > On Aug 4, 10:47 am, JoelMatthews wrote: > > > > Looks nice - but that is a problem for me. > > > > If seller were offering in scratched up mode it would have been the > > > perfect candidate to buy and fit with posts for the Braze on Paul > > > Racer M. > > > > As it is, I would hate to strip off the new paint job. > > > > On Aug 3, 11:31 pm, rcnute wrote: > > > > > Wow, I love this color! I don't think I've seen a Rivendell like > > > > this. http://tiny.cc/wreyu > > > > > Ryan -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: alternative color hoods for tektro drop bar V-brake levers
This may be a little off topic and a bad idea - but I was considering spraying mine using vinyl upholstery paint. Can't make them gum colored exactly but there are some options that come close - wear may be a factor. Otherwise I wouldn't be shocked if the hoods from other brands could be swapped in with some trial and error. On Aug 9, 8:55 pm, Thomas Lynn Skean wrote: > Hi, all! > > Anyone know of a source for other-than-black hoods for the drop bar > linear-pull brake levers that RBW sells? I think those levers are > Tektro RL-520 model levers. > > I know Dia-Compe has some drop bar linear-pull brake levers that are > available with either black or brown hoods; but even for those I don't > know where to get replacement hoods. And the levers cost more. And I > don't know if I'd like their shape as much as the Tektros, which feel > pretty good to me. > > Thanks! > > Yours, > Thomas Lynn Skean -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
Re: [RBW] Re: Root beer Rambouillet
On Mon, 2010-08-09 at 14:51 -0700, S.Cutshall wrote: > Hope you win, but let me add please... > > I can never quite understand the eBay "Refresh-n-Stress" method of > bidding. Recently I've won a coupla things on The Bay, and even more > recently I've sold [and am selling] a metric poop-ton of high end > drums & cymbals... and it seems to me that it's logical to approach > these sorts of things with two thoughts: > > 1. Know your limit, your budget, what you are willing to go to... and > then that's that. > > And then... > > 2. Just use something like 'Snipe It' [which is a legal eBay bidding > device]. > > And really, that's it. > > PS-> You can read more about 'Snipe It' here [and download it too, if > interested]... > > https://www.myibay.com/ How would this be an improvement over simply bidding as much as you are actually willing to pay in the first place? -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Root beer Rambouillet
Scott, I agree with you. I've handled this auction wrong. I should have bid my limit at the start, and just be content to let it go if somebody went over the top. I didn't do that, and so here I am. On Aug 9, 2:51 pm, "S.Cutshall" wrote: > Hope you win, but let me add please... > > I can never quite understand the eBay "Refresh-n-Stress" method of > bidding. Recently I've won a coupla things on The Bay, and even more > recently I've sold [and am selling] a metric poop-ton of high end > drums & cymbals... and it seems to me that it's logical to approach > these sorts of things with two thoughts: > > 1. Know your limit, your budget, what you are willing to go to... and > then that's that. > > And then... > > 2. Just use something like 'Snipe It' [which is a legal eBay bidding > device]. > > And really, that's it. > > PS-> You can read more about 'Snipe It' here [and download it too, if > interested]... > > https://www.myibay.com/ > > Just a suggestion to minimize stress and such... > > -Scott > > On Aug 9, 1:42 pm, William wrote: > > > I'm currently the high bidder, and have been for several days. I > > doubt that my current bid will win, but I really do want it and will > > put it right to use if I do win. If somebody does outbid my current > > max bid I will most likely bid again. > > > If anyone here on the list is planning to blow me out of the water at > > the end, please let me know to save me the stress of hitting refresh > > 16,000 times. If you are on the fence whether to bid or not, I vote > > that you let it go, so I can win it. :) > > > Bill > > > On Aug 4, 10:26 am, Will wrote: > > > > < > > nicer. >> > > > > I was thinking the same, only I can think of a number of frames from > > > the 1970s that had this and other variants of brown. > > > > When is someone going to put a 62-cm Ramb up for auction (or FS on > > > this list)? I've been looking for 1.5 years and still nothing... > > > > Will > > > > On Aug 4, 10:47 am, JoelMatthews wrote: > > > > > Looks nice - but that is a problem for me. > > > > > If seller were offering in scratched up mode it would have been the > > > > perfect candidate to buy and fit with posts for the Braze on Paul > > > > Racer M. > > > > > As it is, I would hate to strip off the new paint job. > > > > > On Aug 3, 11:31 pm, rcnute wrote: > > > > > > Wow, I love this color! I don't think I've seen a Rivendell like > > > > > this. http://tiny.cc/wreyu > > > > > > Ryan > > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
Re: [RBW] Wow! There's an Atlantis under there somewhre
Wow! Those are the smallest front panniers I've ever seen! :) Aaron Young Rochester, NY where the rain soaked me to the bone on my commute home. On Mon, Aug 9, 2010 at 5:06 PM, TomT wrote: > http://www.flickr.com/photos/37542...@n04/4815789734/ > > -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > "RBW Owners Bunch" group. > To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to > rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com > . > For more options, visit this group at > http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. > > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
Re: [RBW] Re: Root beer Rambouillet
On Mon, 2010-08-09 at 15:02 -0700, William wrote: > Scott, I agree with you. I've handled this auction wrong. I should > have bid my limit at the start, and just be content to let it go if > somebody went over the top. I didn't do that, and so here I am. So go ahead and raise your bid to your limit, and forget about it until the auction is over and you've won or not. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] FS:58cm Rambouillet,almost new Phil Wood wheelset 7 freewheel etc.
I'm selling my 58cm orange Rambouillett that I picked up from another Riv owner on this site around Feb. of this year. I'm moving into a much smaller place and can't fit 5 bikes,wife and 5 year old. It is not completely built up and will need to be finished.The majority of the parts are here.They are as follows: 1-58cm Rambouillet,fork,Shimano Ultergra Headset 2-Phil Wood wheelset 130mm rear spacing 7 speed freewheel w. Like new Ird Freewheel 32t big cog,laced to Velocity Dyad rims 3 cross.Bought the wheelset new, built by Bikeman in Maine around Feb.2010.Very low miles on the wheels and Freewheel. 3-Salsa silver skewers 4-2 Panaracer Pasela Compe folding 700x35c tires,tubes and rim tape. Lots of miles left 5-2 Panaracer Pasela torguard wire bead tires.Lots a miles left also 6-Ird Sidepull brakes model RC 450 7-Sugino XD 600 48/36/26 triple crank 170mm bought new also in Feb. 2010 8-MSS GR9 platform pedals 9-Specialized (Nitto Crystal Fellow) 27.2 seatpost,cut down but still sufficient amount of post left. 10-Nitto Periscopa 8cm stem 25.4 11-Soma Moustache handlebar 12-Shimano 105 Aero Brake levers 13-Selle Antomica W.S. saddle brown 14-Shimano Bar end shifters 15-New Echelon Brown swirl cork handlebar tape. 16-Suntour XC expert rear derailer 17-Suntour triple X1 front derailer 18-Ird Bottom Bracket The frame does have some scratches and scuffs. It still has a nice luster and it turns heads where ever I have ridden it. The previous owner had it framed saved as I did also. I think the only parts that are missing are the chain, and cables.This bike rides and climbs beautifully!!!. I have a 58cm 650b Saluki that is more versatile for the type of riding I do. I'm going to miss this ride.. Price is $1,800.00 which includes shipping and Paypal charges. Email me and I can send photos. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Grant discounts the value of top tube length
TT length is one of those "it is , but it isn't" things. If you ride a bike with too short of a TT , it is. If not it isn't. That's why you get the polar opposite opinions. Being tall, and ridden many short TT'd frames ,it is important to myself because stems only reach so far. They never compensate for an overly short TT. I find a longer TT'd bike with a shorter stem always feels better to ride than a short TT bike with a long stem. Of course, the height of the head tube in relation to the BB is just as important. If you've ever had your knees hit your headset while climbing you know the importance of TT length. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
Re: [RBW] Re: alternative color hoods for tektro drop bar V-brake levers
Gum-colored hoods are made for Ergo levers: http://campyonlyguy.blogspot.com/2010/07/today-bike-campy-alchemy.html You can probably also find them for your Tektros. --Eric Sent from my iPad On Aug 9, 2010, at 2:57 PM, TJ Ramb wrote: > > > This may be a little off topic and a bad idea - but I was considering > spraying mine using vinyl upholstery paint. > Can't make them gum colored exactly but there are some options that > come close - wear may be a factor. > > Otherwise I wouldn't be shocked if the hoods from other brands could > be swapped in with some trial and error. > > > > On Aug 9, 8:55 pm, Thomas Lynn Skean > wrote: >> Hi, all! >> >> Anyone know of a source for other-than-black hoods for the drop bar >> linear-pull brake levers that RBW sells? I think those levers are >> Tektro RL-520 model levers. >> >> I know Dia-Compe has some drop bar linear-pull brake levers that are >> available with either black or brown hoods; but even for those I don't >> know where to get replacement hoods. And the levers cost more. And I >> don't know if I'd like their shape as much as the Tektros, which feel >> pretty good to me. >> >> Thanks! >> >> Yours, >> Thomas Lynn Skean > > -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > "RBW Owners Bunch" group. > To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to > rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. > For more options, visit this group at > http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] FS: 2 Bull moose style handlebars
1. http://www.flickr.com/photos/bethness/4876712443/ 21.1 quill with cable hanger. 2. http://www.flickr.com/photos/bethness/4876712445/ 22.2 quill. Both bars are Cr-MO, neither appears to be Nitto (I looked); in decent used condition, showing surface rust which can easily be removed with chrome polish and a rag or steel wool. $30.00 each including shipping in conUS. I will combine both bars in one box for $50.00 including shipping in conUS. Paypal preferred, please reply off-list. Thanks much --Beth http://bikelovejones1.blogspot.com/ -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
Re: [RBW] Re: Shimmy!
You're correct. My confusion. It's just that the OP stated that at speed he'd see a bump or something, would tense and hit the brakes and the vibrations would start; it threw me off. This is quite an interesting discussion but seeing as there is no cure and it's just another bike trait to understand, I'd like to know what is the best way to address it when it happens at high speed on a downhill. That's when things get scary. The low speed wobble is not a real safety concern. René On Monday, August 9, 2010, CycloFiend wrote: > on 8/9/10 9:15 AM, Rene Sterental at orthie...@gmail.com wrote: > >> Does this only happen when you brake and goes away if you stop braking? >> >> Does I happen in bikes with canti brakes but not on bikes with sidepull >> brakes? >> >> I've had this problem only on a Gunnar with canti brakes. Have yet to >> descend fast on the Atlantis to see if it will happen. Front >> cantilever brakes when applied hard at high speeds produce this effect >> due to fork flex and forces applied when braking as the fork flexes >> and extends back repeatedly (my crude explanation). >> >> The first time this happened to me on a long fast descent it scared me >> badly as I thought the fork was broken (carbon). >> >> This doesn't seem to happen with sidepulls as they are bolted where >> there is no fork flex. I'm pretty sure brake type, leverage, pads, rim >> quality are some additional variables that play a role here. A highly >> modulating brake setup should help. There was very little modulation >> on the Gunnar setup compared to how I've now learned to set up high >> profile cantis after doing some research. > > Rene - > > It sounds like what you are describing is canti-induced fork "chatter", as > opposed to a shimmy. They are certainly similar in causing significant > vibration, but quite different with respect to cause. My old (non-riv) CX > bike did this heroically. > > To paraphrase other posts on other lists, basically, what you have is a > flexing - either at the posts, through the legs or through the hanger - that > hanger flex probably more than anything. This causes a micro-release not > dissimilar to an automotive anti-lock brake. So, you are in effect releasing > and stopping the rim at high frequency. It's more a fore-aft motion. > > Shimmy is well described in the Jobst posts that Steve cited. The vibration > is different - more of an oscillation, and doesn't institute by braking. > > http://www.faqs.org/faqs/bicycles-faq/part4/section-25.html > > I've ridden alongside JimG when it occurs. He could forecast quite > accurately when it was about to happen. Also, he could move above that speed > and have it level out again, IIRC. > > - Jim > > - > > -- > Jim Edgar > cyclofi...@earthlink.net > > Cyclofiend Bicycle Photo Galleries - http://www.cyclofiend.com > Current Classics - Cross Bikes > Singlespeed - Working Bikes > > Gallery updates now appear here - http://cyclofiend.blogspot.com > > "There were messengers who named their bikes, but Chevette never would have > done that, and somehow because she did think about it like it was something > alive." > > William Gibson - "Virtual Light" > > > -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > "RBW Owners Bunch" group. > To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to > rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. > For more options, visit this group at > http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. > > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
Re: [RBW] Re: Shimmy!
On Mon, 2010-08-09 at 17:28 -0500, Rene Sterental wrote: > You're correct. My confusion. It's just that the OP stated that at > speed he'd see a bump or something, would tense and hit the brakes and > the vibrations would start; it threw me off. > > This is quite an interesting discussion but seeing as there is no cure > and it's just another bike trait to understand, I'd like to know what > is the best way to address it when it happens at high speed on a > downhill. That's when things get scary. The low speed wobble is not a > real safety concern. Clamp the top tube between your knees. According to the FAQ, a light touch is sufficient; the times it happened to me, I squeezed the bejeezus out of it, trying my best to squash the tube flat - and that worked fine. And then, somehow, without knowing what I did, I changed the setup on the bike and it never did it again. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Root beer Rambouillet
Redundant question, Steve... that's what I am saying [only exception being: known fact that most bidding on high-end/desirable goods on The Bay happen in the last 20 seconds... so again, know your Max-Bid, program it in for the recommended 6 second protocol, walk away, enjoy life, and then check it after the fact]. Re: the last 20 seconds... Recently sold a very high-end 18" bass drum on The Bay. It was a 0.99 cent auction [let the market decide and all that... but very risky on my behalf as a seller], 7 day auction, bass drum was stalled at $199.99 for 6 of those days [not good on my end]... final day, 30 seconds to go, each time I hit Refresh on my browser to watch my day get better [or much, much, worse], the bidding popped from 3 bids @199.99 to 17 bids and a final of $1034.00. -Scott On Aug 9, 2:59 pm, Steve Palincsar wrote: > On Mon, 2010-08-09 at 14:51 -0700, S.Cutshall wrote: > > Hope you win, but let me add please... > > > I can never quite understand the eBay "Refresh-n-Stress" method of > > bidding. Recently I've won a coupla things on The Bay, and even more > > recently I've sold [and am selling] a metric poop-ton of high end > > drums & cymbals... and it seems to me that it's logical to approach > > these sorts of things with two thoughts: > > > 1. Know your limit, your budget, what you are willing to go to... and > > then that's that. > > > And then... > > > 2. Just use something like 'Snipe It' [which is a legal eBay bidding > > device]. > > > And really, that's it. > > > PS-> You can read more about 'Snipe It' here [and download it too, if > > interested]... > > >https://www.myibay.com/ > > How would this be an improvement over simply bidding as much as you are > actually willing to pay in the first place? -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Hong Kong to Shanghai
Welcome to the list! Sounds like an epic ride. You need an Olympus waterproof camera for your next trip. jim m wc ca On Aug 9, 3:28 am, Fai Mao wrote: > I made this tour earlier this summer for my 50th birthday. At that > time I was not a member of this group or I would have posted it here > at that time. This was an absolute death march tour with the rains and > flooding this summer in China. > > I am sorry about the lack of pictures but the description explains > what happened to our only camera. > > I did this tour on the Sam Hillborne > > http://forums.roadbikereview.com/showthread.php?t=216917&highlight=ho... -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Root beer Rambouillet
Scott and Steve You are both right. The stress is really based on wanting the thing and wanting it for the price I want it for. Sure, if somebody wanted that Rambu so badly that they bid $4000 for it, I would on one level be fine with that, but on another, you're still bummed you couldn't have it at your price. I'll make sure my real max is in there when it needs to be in there. Thanks On Aug 9, 3:54 pm, "S.Cutshall" wrote: > Redundant question, Steve... > > that's what I am saying [only exception being: known fact that most > bidding on high-end/desirable goods on The Bay happen in the last 20 > seconds... so again, know your Max-Bid, program it in for the > recommended 6 second protocol, walk away, enjoy life, and then check > it after the fact]. > > Re: the last 20 seconds... > > Recently sold a very high-end 18" bass drum on The Bay. It was a 0.99 > cent auction [let the market decide and all that... but very risky on > my behalf as a seller], 7 day auction, bass drum was stalled at > $199.99 for 6 of those days [not good on my end]... final day, 30 > seconds to go, each time I hit Refresh on my browser to watch my day > get better [or much, much, worse], the bidding popped from 3 bids > @199.99 to 17 bids and a final of $1034.00. > > -Scott > > On Aug 9, 2:59 pm, Steve Palincsar wrote: > > > On Mon, 2010-08-09 at 14:51 -0700, S.Cutshall wrote: > > > Hope you win, but let me add please... > > > > I can never quite understand the eBay "Refresh-n-Stress" method of > > > bidding. Recently I've won a coupla things on The Bay, and even more > > > recently I've sold [and am selling] a metric poop-ton of high end > > > drums & cymbals... and it seems to me that it's logical to approach > > > these sorts of things with two thoughts: > > > > 1. Know your limit, your budget, what you are willing to go to... and > > > then that's that. > > > > And then... > > > > 2. Just use something like 'Snipe It' [which is a legal eBay bidding > > > device]. > > > > And really, that's it. > > > > PS-> You can read more about 'Snipe It' here [and download it too, if > > > interested]... > > > >https://www.myibay.com/ > > > How would this be an improvement over simply bidding as much as you are > > actually willing to pay in the first place? > > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
Re: [RBW] Re: Shimmy!
I guess that's the best way to get rid of it! :-) Thanks for the emergency solution! René -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Grant discounts the value of top tube length
There is sort of a way of quantifying it, and it's apparently used by some professional fitters. When I was professionally sized at the Tommasini factory in Italy, they took a measurement that went from the center of the front hub to the center of the handlebar/stem clamp. It was ostensibly to tell me how high the stem/bars should be, given the other coordinates of the fit and frame that we worked out as I pedaled on the fit machine and he looked at my positioning. They also provided a very specific top tube length (54.5 cm) that was supposed work with the either of two seat tube angles that we were considering (73 and 73.5 degrees). On the other hand, and somewhat curiously, they did not bother to specify a head tube angle. My guess is that it would have been determined in the process of building the frame. Or perhaps it's proprietary information to Tommasini. I dunno. I didn't end up ordering a frame (yet). But they have my numbers on file for when I finally have the scratch to pull the trigger. Aaron On Aug 9, 2:14 pm, William wrote: > In the most recent step on the frame-drawing tutorial, Grant stated > more directly than I can recall his feeling about top tube length: > > "It's not the key, or even a key dimension. It matters, but not nearly > as much as other things, or as much as people think it does. Bar > height affects how far you have to reach to the bar more than top tube > length does. Seat tube angle affects reach, too. But at some point > yep, you gotta pick a top tube length." > > On every bicycle forum on the planet, including this one, there will > be numerous posters who emphatically state that top tube length is the > single most important dimension on a bike, and that frame size itself > should be stated as a top tube length dimension rather than a seat > tube length dimension. I know I used to be convinced of that thinking > and am only beginning to accept the possibility of an alternative. > The fact is, everybody wants to know what the top tube length is, so > Grant lists it. If handlebar height is way more important, then I > wonder why Grant/Riv don't propose a way to quantify that > characteristic on a frame or a bike. I can't think of an easy way to > do it, either. Is it just the altitude of the headset locknut with a > particular normal tire? Is it the x,y coordinates of the headset > locknut relative to (0,0) placed at the center of the BB? -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: What a beautiful hub!
On Aug 9, 8:18 am, JoelMatthews wrote: > > I wonder how loud is the hub when coasting? Shimano is still king as > > it is the quietest. > > The Freewheel Royce at least are pretty quiet. I do not recall ever > riding a bike with Shimano hubs. Maybe I have, just do not remember. > The Royce are easily as quiet as my Maxi-Car, which is a rather quiet > hub. > Thanks. Interestingly, looking at the totalcycling website, I see they sell the Ambrosio Zenith rear hub in silver. Its a very nice looking rear hub that weighs in at 268g (w/o skewers), available in both Campy and Shimano freehub and apparently is the same as the Grand Bois rear hub that Jan Heine sells (and highly recommends): ambrosio zeneith rear hub: http://www.totalcycling.com/index.php/product/HB_ZENITH_S_R.html grand bois rear hub: http://www.vintagebicyclepress.com/images/GBHubMR.JPG At about $65, the Ambrosio may be the best deal for a silver rear hub on the market! Good Luck! -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Grant discounts the value of top tube length
I think the point is, that reach isn't the same as top tube length. Reach, which for me is a key component of fit, does depend on top tube length, but also on seat tube angle, handlebar height, etc. I have an old Peugeot and a new Atlantis that have exactly the same effective top tube length. But the seat angle on the Peugeot is 76 degrees (so I have to shove my saddle all the way back), and on the Atlantis it's 72.5 degrees (and my saddle is centered on the seat tube). In the end, my reach is quite a bit longer on the Peugeot. On Aug 9, 5:14 pm, William wrote: > In the most recent step on the frame-drawing tutorial, Grant stated > more directly than I can recall his feeling about top tube length: > > "It's not the key, or even a key dimension. It matters, but not nearly > as much as other things, or as much as people think it does. Bar > height affects how far you have to reach to the bar more than top tube > length does. Seat tube angle affects reach, too. But at some point > yep, you gotta pick a top tube length." > > On every bicycle forum on the planet, including this one, there will > be numerous posters who emphatically state that top tube length is the > single most important dimension on a bike, and that frame size itself > should be stated as a top tube length dimension rather than a seat > tube length dimension. I know I used to be convinced of that thinking > and am only beginning to accept the possibility of an alternative. > The fact is, everybody wants to know what the top tube length is, so > Grant lists it. If handlebar height is way more important, then I > wonder why Grant/Riv don't propose a way to quantify that > characteristic on a frame or a bike. I can't think of an easy way to > do it, either. Is it just the altitude of the headset locknut with a > particular normal tire? Is it the x,y coordinates of the headset > locknut relative to (0,0) placed at the center of the BB? -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Root beer Rambouillet
I'm with you William, the ebaY can be rough on the emotions. I subscribe to the put your top bid in and hope it's enough. BUT, that still leaves me wondering if I am just slightly outbid. I ponder the question of perhaps the other bidder was willing to only pay a couple of bucks more than I bid? I know the seller and he has some very nice bicycles and one of the greatest people I know to boot! I know that he really likes the Rambouillet, this is his second. I don't think it would be too much if I out him a little and say that he was never really wild about the orange on the first one, thought he would try a little something different on the second. The bicycle looks really sharp in person, particularly when built up with silver components. The single color really looks sharp. The powder is a bit thicker so the shorelines of the lugs aren't quite as crisp as what you get with wet paint. But, you do gain the durability of the finish and Spectrum does probably the best job with powder in the business. I think if it were not for a really unique opportunity to pick something else up, he would likely hang on to the bike. I am certain that the winning bidder will ultimately be very pleased with the bike. Don't worry, there are still a couple of Rivendells in the collection. In fact, I think it was the Blériot that warmed his heart to the whole 650b world. Good luck with your bidding William, just over a day until we'll know if you are the winner! On Aug 9, 6:36 pm, William wrote: > Scott and Steve > > You are both right. The stress is really based on wanting the thing > and wanting it for the price I want it for. Sure, if somebody wanted > that Rambu so badly that they bid $4000 for it, I would on one level > be fine with that, but on another, you're still bummed you couldn't > have it at your price. I'll make sure my real max is in there when it > needs to be in there. Thanks > > On Aug 9, 3:54 pm, "S.Cutshall" wrote: > > > > > Redundant question, Steve... > > > that's what I am saying [only exception being: known fact that most > > bidding on high-end/desirable goods on The Bay happen in the last 20 > > seconds... so again, know your Max-Bid, program it in for the > > recommended 6 second protocol, walk away, enjoy life, and then check > > it after the fact]. > > > Re: the last 20 seconds... > > > Recently sold a very high-end 18" bass drum on The Bay. It was a 0.99 > > cent auction [let the market decide and all that... but very risky on > > my behalf as a seller], 7 day auction, bass drum was stalled at > > $199.99 for 6 of those days [not good on my end]... final day, 30 > > seconds to go, each time I hit Refresh on my browser to watch my day > > get better [or much, much, worse], the bidding popped from 3 bids > > @199.99 to 17 bids and a final of $1034.00. > > > -Scott > > > On Aug 9, 2:59 pm, Steve Palincsar wrote: > > > > On Mon, 2010-08-09 at 14:51 -0700, S.Cutshall wrote: > > > > Hope you win, but let me add please... > > > > > I can never quite understand the eBay "Refresh-n-Stress" method of > > > > bidding. Recently I've won a coupla things on The Bay, and even more > > > > recently I've sold [and am selling] a metric poop-ton of high end > > > > drums & cymbals... and it seems to me that it's logical to approach > > > > these sorts of things with two thoughts: > > > > > 1. Know your limit, your budget, what you are willing to go to... and > > > > then that's that. > > > > > And then... > > > > > 2. Just use something like 'Snipe It' [which is a legal eBay bidding > > > > device]. > > > > > And really, that's it. > > > > > PS-> You can read more about 'Snipe It' here [and download it too, if > > > > interested]... > > > > >https://www.myibay.com/ > > > > How would this be an improvement over simply bidding as much as you are > > > actually willing to pay in the first place? -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Root beer Rambouillet
It does seem very nicely done. and it's my size thinking William does have quite a few Rivs.. I have only one... I'll just watch for the moment. No promises though. ~Mike~ On Aug 9, 5:51 pm, Ken Yokanovich wrote: > I'm with you William, the ebaY can be rough on the emotions. I > subscribe to the put your top bid in and hope it's enough. BUT, that > still leaves me wondering if I am just slightly outbid. I ponder the > question of perhaps the other bidder was willing to only pay a couple > of bucks more than I bid? > > I know the seller and he has some very nice bicycles and one of the > greatest people I know to boot! I know that he really likes the > Rambouillet, this is his second. I don't think it would be too much if > I out him a little and say that he was never really wild about the > orange on the first one, thought he would try a little something > different on the second. The bicycle looks really sharp in person, > particularly when built up with silver components. The single color > really looks sharp. The powder is a bit thicker so the shorelines of > the lugs aren't quite as crisp as what you get with wet paint. But, > you do gain the durability of the finish and Spectrum does probably > the best job with powder in the business. > > I think if it were not for a really unique opportunity to pick > something else up, he would likely hang on to the bike. I am certain > that the winning bidder will ultimately be very pleased with the bike. > Don't worry, there are still a couple of Rivendells in the > collection. In fact, I think it was the Blériot that warmed his heart > to the whole 650b world. Good luck with your bidding William, just > over a day until we'll know if you are the winner! > > On Aug 9, 6:36 pm, William wrote: > > > > > Scott and Steve > > > You are both right. The stress is really based on wanting the thing > > and wanting it for the price I want it for. Sure, if somebody wanted > > that Rambu so badly that they bid $4000 for it, I would on one level > > be fine with that, but on another, you're still bummed you couldn't > > have it at your price. I'll make sure my real max is in there when it > > needs to be in there. Thanks > > > On Aug 9, 3:54 pm, "S.Cutshall" wrote: > > > > Redundant question, Steve... > > > > that's what I am saying [only exception being: known fact that most > > > bidding on high-end/desirable goods on The Bay happen in the last 20 > > > seconds... so again, know your Max-Bid, program it in for the > > > recommended 6 second protocol, walk away, enjoy life, and then check > > > it after the fact]. > > > > Re: the last 20 seconds... > > > > Recently sold a very high-end 18" bass drum on The Bay. It was a 0.99 > > > cent auction [let the market decide and all that... but very risky on > > > my behalf as a seller], 7 day auction, bass drum was stalled at > > > $199.99 for 6 of those days [not good on my end]... final day, 30 > > > seconds to go, each time I hit Refresh on my browser to watch my day > > > get better [or much, much, worse], the bidding popped from 3 bids > > > @199.99 to 17 bids and a final of $1034.00. > > > > -Scott > > > > On Aug 9, 2:59 pm, Steve Palincsar wrote: > > > > > On Mon, 2010-08-09 at 14:51 -0700, S.Cutshall wrote: > > > > > Hope you win, but let me add please... > > > > > > I can never quite understand the eBay "Refresh-n-Stress" method of > > > > > bidding. Recently I've won a coupla things on The Bay, and even more > > > > > recently I've sold [and am selling] a metric poop-ton of high end > > > > > drums & cymbals... and it seems to me that it's logical to approach > > > > > these sorts of things with two thoughts: > > > > > > 1. Know your limit, your budget, what you are willing to go to... and > > > > > then that's that. > > > > > > And then... > > > > > > 2. Just use something like 'Snipe It' [which is a legal eBay bidding > > > > > device]. > > > > > > And really, that's it. > > > > > > PS-> You can read more about 'Snipe It' here [and download it too, if > > > > > interested]... > > > > > >https://www.myibay.com/ > > > > > How would this be an improvement over simply bidding as much as you are > > > > actually willing to pay in the first place?- Hide quoted text - > > - Show quoted text - -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Root beer Rambouillet
Yeah, and now I'm outbid. I guess that still gives me all night to really contemplate my max/max to take a shot at it in the morning. On Aug 9, 5:51 pm, Ken Yokanovich wrote: > I'm with you William, the ebaY can be rough on the emotions. I > subscribe to the put your top bid in and hope it's enough. BUT, that > still leaves me wondering if I am just slightly outbid. I ponder the > question of perhaps the other bidder was willing to only pay a couple > of bucks more than I bid? > > I know the seller and he has some very nice bicycles and one of the > greatest people I know to boot! I know that he really likes the > Rambouillet, this is his second. I don't think it would be too much if > I out him a little and say that he was never really wild about the > orange on the first one, thought he would try a little something > different on the second. The bicycle looks really sharp in person, > particularly when built up with silver components. The single color > really looks sharp. The powder is a bit thicker so the shorelines of > the lugs aren't quite as crisp as what you get with wet paint. But, > you do gain the durability of the finish and Spectrum does probably > the best job with powder in the business. > > I think if it were not for a really unique opportunity to pick > something else up, he would likely hang on to the bike. I am certain > that the winning bidder will ultimately be very pleased with the bike. > Don't worry, there are still a couple of Rivendells in the > collection. In fact, I think it was the Blériot that warmed his heart > to the whole 650b world. Good luck with your bidding William, just > over a day until we'll know if you are the winner! > > On Aug 9, 6:36 pm, William wrote: > > > Scott and Steve > > > You are both right. The stress is really based on wanting the thing > > and wanting it for the price I want it for. Sure, if somebody wanted > > that Rambu so badly that they bid $4000 for it, I would on one level > > be fine with that, but on another, you're still bummed you couldn't > > have it at your price. I'll make sure my real max is in there when it > > needs to be in there. Thanks > > > On Aug 9, 3:54 pm, "S.Cutshall" wrote: > > > > Redundant question, Steve... > > > > that's what I am saying [only exception being: known fact that most > > > bidding on high-end/desirable goods on The Bay happen in the last 20 > > > seconds... so again, know your Max-Bid, program it in for the > > > recommended 6 second protocol, walk away, enjoy life, and then check > > > it after the fact]. > > > > Re: the last 20 seconds... > > > > Recently sold a very high-end 18" bass drum on The Bay. It was a 0.99 > > > cent auction [let the market decide and all that... but very risky on > > > my behalf as a seller], 7 day auction, bass drum was stalled at > > > $199.99 for 6 of those days [not good on my end]... final day, 30 > > > seconds to go, each time I hit Refresh on my browser to watch my day > > > get better [or much, much, worse], the bidding popped from 3 bids > > > @199.99 to 17 bids and a final of $1034.00. > > > > -Scott > > > > On Aug 9, 2:59 pm, Steve Palincsar wrote: > > > > > On Mon, 2010-08-09 at 14:51 -0700, S.Cutshall wrote: > > > > > Hope you win, but let me add please... > > > > > > I can never quite understand the eBay "Refresh-n-Stress" method of > > > > > bidding. Recently I've won a coupla things on The Bay, and even more > > > > > recently I've sold [and am selling] a metric poop-ton of high end > > > > > drums & cymbals... and it seems to me that it's logical to approach > > > > > these sorts of things with two thoughts: > > > > > > 1. Know your limit, your budget, what you are willing to go to... and > > > > > then that's that. > > > > > > And then... > > > > > > 2. Just use something like 'Snipe It' [which is a legal eBay bidding > > > > > device]. > > > > > > And really, that's it. > > > > > > PS-> You can read more about 'Snipe It' here [and download it too, if > > > > > interested]... > > > > > >https://www.myibay.com/ > > > > > How would this be an improvement over simply bidding as much as you are > > > > actually willing to pay in the first place? > > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Root beer Rambouillet
> How would this be an improvement over simply bidding as much as you are > actually willing to pay in the first place? Schadenfreude, Steve. Schadenfreude. The joy of eBay is not just in the winning. It is knowing someone else lost. And nothing elevates that pleasure more than waiting for those last few seconds to pounce on unsuspecting fellow bidders. No 3rd Party devices for me though. I have a pretty good cable connection. It's win on my own or lose. On Aug 9, 4:59 pm, Steve Palincsar wrote: > On Mon, 2010-08-09 at 14:51 -0700, S.Cutshall wrote: > > Hope you win, but let me add please... > > > I can never quite understand the eBay "Refresh-n-Stress" method of > > bidding. Recently I've won a coupla things on The Bay, and even more > > recently I've sold [and am selling] a metric poop-ton of high end > > drums & cymbals... and it seems to me that it's logical to approach > > these sorts of things with two thoughts: > > > 1. Know your limit, your budget, what you are willing to go to... and > > then that's that. > > > And then... > > > 2. Just use something like 'Snipe It' [which is a legal eBay bidding > > device]. > > > And really, that's it. > > > PS-> You can read more about 'Snipe It' here [and download it too, if > > interested]... > > >https://www.myibay.com/ > > How would this be an improvement over simply bidding as much as you are > actually willing to pay in the first place? -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Shimmy!
Actually, I said no such thing. I wrote that I was going 45 mph and moved from the drops to the tops & a tuck when the slight vibration started. I immediately reverted to the drops & the vibration stopped. Thanks for the reference to the ibob, discusiion & Brandt's thoughts. The thing that most struck me was Jobst assertion that shimmy should be repeatable event, so I set out today, the last day of my vacation, to climb the same mountain road with exactly the same set up and see if I could repeat the shimmy on the descent. Unfortunately I got rained out before I could complete this exercise. I did take a much hillier route over the the base of the mountain to see if I could reproduce it at somewhat slower speeds. When Prof. Garmin recorded my speed at 37.5, I let go of the handlebars on my Rambouillet. Then I shifted my weight between the pedals and seat, but was unable to create any shimmy. The road was relatively smooth, like the downhill that originally created a vibration, but it did have a long series of vertical tar snakes running across the road. I repeated this exercise on a bumpy road at 31 mph, and again, nothing. I headed up the mountain road, but only got about one mile when the skies opened; so I spent a pleasant half hour in a barn with a farm worker overhauling a tractor engine. We hit it off despite the fact that his english wasn't any better than my spanish. After thatI decided it wasn't a good day for high balling down the mountain. Michael On Aug 9, 6:28 pm, Rene Sterental wrote: >y confusion. It's just that the OP stated that at > speed he'd see a bump or something, would tense and hit the brakes and > the vibrations would start; it threw me off. > > > René -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
Re: [RBW] Re: Grant discounts the value of top tube length
I don't think top tube length is anywhere near the most important measure of a frame. Reach from the ischeal support points on the saddle to the points of grip on the handlebars is important, as is the position of the ischeal supports relative to the BB axis. The horizontal distance from the ischeal supports to the BB, or to a vertical that intersects it, is a function of seat tube angle, its length, seatpost setback, and saddle selection. The remainder of reach (making the simplifying assumption of horizontal reach) is from the BB intersecting vertical to the chosen handlebar grips, let's say the hoods. That distance is made up of the remainder of the top tube, the stem and it's extension, the handlebar curvature, and the design of the brake lever or brifter. There's a lot more involved than the top tube. By making some assumptions about handlebar, brifter, and stem reaches one may come up with a criterion for top tube length, but if you don't specify the seat tube angle, seatpost setback, saddle design, and saddle positioning, it is not possible to compare frames based on TT length. The difference in this rear half of the reach among different frame arrangements can be in the 4 cm range. How can one say "I need 53 cm, and 54 is too long" if there could be a 4 cm difference in hand gripping position? On Mon, Aug 9, 2010 at 8:48 PM, Lisa wrote: > I think the point is, that reach isn't the same as top tube length. > Reach, which for me is a key component of fit, does depend on top tube > length, but also on seat tube angle, handlebar height, etc. > > I have an old Peugeot and a new Atlantis that have exactly the same > effective top tube length. But the seat angle on the Peugeot is 76 > degrees (so I have to shove my saddle all the way back), and on the > Atlantis it's 72.5 degrees (and my saddle is centered on the seat > tube). In the end, my reach is quite a bit longer on the Peugeot. > > On Aug 9, 5:14 pm, William wrote: > > In the most recent step on the frame-drawing tutorial, Grant stated > > more directly than I can recall his feeling about top tube length: > > > > "It's not the key, or even a key dimension. It matters, but not nearly > > as much as other things, or as much as people think it does. Bar > > height affects how far you have to reach to the bar more than top tube > > length does. Seat tube angle affects reach, too. But at some point > > yep, you gotta pick a top tube length." > > > > On every bicycle forum on the planet, including this one, there will > > be numerous posters who emphatically state that top tube length is the > > single most important dimension on a bike, and that frame size itself > > should be stated as a top tube length dimension rather than a seat > > tube length dimension. I know I used to be convinced of that thinking > > and am only beginning to accept the possibility of an alternative. > > The fact is, everybody wants to know what the top tube length is, so > > Grant lists it. If handlebar height is way more important, then I > > wonder why Grant/Riv don't propose a way to quantify that > > characteristic on a frame or a bike. I can't think of an easy way to > > do it, either. Is it just the altitude of the headset locknut with a > > particular normal tire? Is it the x,y coordinates of the headset > > locknut relative to (0,0) placed at the center of the BB? > > -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > "RBW Owners Bunch" group. > To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to > rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com > . > For more options, visit this group at > http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. > > -- Ken Freeman Ann Arbor, MI USA -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
Re: [RBW] Re: Root beer Rambouillet
Speaking of ebay and Rivendell, this frame is stunning: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=330459226341 Someone please buy it! On Mon, Aug 9, 2010 at 6:16 PM, JoelMatthews wrote: > > How would this be an improvement over simply bidding as much as you are > > actually willing to pay in the first place? > > Schadenfreude, Steve. Schadenfreude. > > The joy of eBay is not just in the winning. It is knowing someone > else lost. > > And nothing elevates that pleasure more than waiting for those last > few seconds to pounce on unsuspecting fellow bidders. > > No 3rd Party devices for me though. I have a pretty good cable > connection. It's win on my own or lose. > > On Aug 9, 4:59 pm, Steve Palincsar wrote: > > On Mon, 2010-08-09 at 14:51 -0700, S.Cutshall wrote: > > > Hope you win, but let me add please... > > > > > I can never quite understand the eBay "Refresh-n-Stress" method of > > > bidding. Recently I've won a coupla things on The Bay, and even more > > > recently I've sold [and am selling] a metric poop-ton of high end > > > drums & cymbals... and it seems to me that it's logical to approach > > > these sorts of things with two thoughts: > > > > > 1. Know your limit, your budget, what you are willing to go to... and > > > then that's that. > > > > > And then... > > > > > 2. Just use something like 'Snipe It' [which is a legal eBay bidding > > > device]. > > > > > And really, that's it. > > > > > PS-> You can read more about 'Snipe It' here [and download it too, if > > > interested]... > > > > >https://www.myibay.com/ > > > > How would this be an improvement over simply bidding as much as you are > > actually willing to pay in the first place? > > -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > "RBW Owners Bunch" group. > To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to > rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com > . > For more options, visit this group at > http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. > > -- Cheers, David Redlands, CA "One man's religion is another man's belly laugh." --Robert A. Heinlein -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
Re: [RBW] Re: Root beer Rambouillet
On Mon, 2010-08-09 at 17:51 -0700, Ken Yokanovich wrote: > I'm with you William, the ebaY can be rough on the emotions. I > subscribe to the put your top bid in and hope it's enough. BUT, that > still leaves me wondering if I am just slightly outbid. I ponder the > question of perhaps the other bidder was willing to only pay a couple > of bucks more than I bid? Not an issue if you were really honest about your top bid. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
Re: [RBW] Grant discounts the value of top tube length
Every woman I know has had a tremendously hard time fitting frames (whatever the maker) due to "reach." They try to correct with super short stems, Terry shorter reach bars, compact levers, etc. This is after they size down a frame from what they could/should be riding based on PBH. For women, it seems to definitely be a factor to consider. On Mon, Aug 9, 2010 at 2:14 PM, William wrote: > In the most recent step on the frame-drawing tutorial, Grant stated > more directly than I can recall his feeling about top tube length: > > "It's not the key, or even a key dimension. It matters, but not nearly > as much as other things, or as much as people think it does. Bar > height affects how far you have to reach to the bar more than top tube > length does. Seat tube angle affects reach, too. But at some point > yep, you gotta pick a top tube length." > > On every bicycle forum on the planet, including this one, there will > be numerous posters who emphatically state that top tube length is the > single most important dimension on a bike, and that frame size itself > should be stated as a top tube length dimension rather than a seat > tube length dimension. I know I used to be convinced of that thinking > and am only beginning to accept the possibility of an alternative. > The fact is, everybody wants to know what the top tube length is, so > Grant lists it. If handlebar height is way more important, then I > wonder why Grant/Riv don't propose a way to quantify that > characteristic on a frame or a bike. I can't think of an easy way to > do it, either. Is it just the altitude of the headset locknut with a > particular normal tire? Is it the x,y coordinates of the headset > locknut relative to (0,0) placed at the center of the BB? > > -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > "RBW Owners Bunch" group. > To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to > rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com > . > For more options, visit this group at > http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. > > -- Cheers, David Redlands, CA "One man's religion is another man's belly laugh." --Robert A. Heinlein -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] F.S. two Brand New Elite Ciussi Button - Alloy water bottles
I am selling two brand new Elite Ciussi Button Alloy water bottles. They are not what I expected. So I am selling both at their combined original price of $17.98. I will pay for the shipping within the continental USA. The link to the online store where I bought them is here: http://tinyurl.com/35embr8 Please contact me off-list if interested. I prefer paypal payment. Thank you. Rene -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Grant discounts the value of top tube length
On Aug 9, 9:35 pm, cyclotourist wrote: > Every woman I know has had a tremendously hard time fitting frames (whatever > the maker) due to "reach." it's definitely a factor for me. i'm 5'8-1/2" or so, with a pbh of 84.45 -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] VO 50.4 BCD Crankset is here
The new 50.4 bcd TA Cyclotourist copy crankset is now in stock at VO. Looks very nice and shiny! The stock 46-30 combo seems like it would work well most flatter places. Though it seems like 46t ring would get a lot use to me since the 30 would only be needed climbing? What freewheel/cassette do most people run in hilly areas with this set? -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Grant discounts the value of top tube length
I had a nice discussion with Grant regarding the TT length as we narrowed down the details of a Riv on order. Basically, if I understood Grant correctly, his explanation was exact as Ken's is below. It all makes sense, really, since no one sits on the TT. Our contact points on the bike are the saddle, the handlebar and the pedals. Whatever's in between those three points can be extremely variable and not impact the three points as long as they cancel each other out; for example, a short TT and a steep ST angle cancelled out by a extreme setback seatpost with the saddle shoved back. -B On Aug 9, 7:14 pm, Ken Freeman wrote: > I don't think top tube length is anywhere near the most important measure of > a frame. Reach from the ischeal support points on the saddle to the points > of grip on the handlebars is important, as is the position of the ischeal > supports relative to the BB axis. The horizontal distance from the ischeal > supports to the BB, or to a vertical that intersects it, is a function of > seat tube angle, its length, seatpost setback, and saddle selection. The > remainder of reach (making the simplifying assumption of horizontal reach) > is from the BB intersecting vertical to the chosen handlebar grips, let's > say the hoods. That distance is made up of the remainder of the top tube, > the stem and it's extension, the handlebar curvature, and the design of the > brake lever or brifter. There's a lot more involved than the top tube. > > By making some assumptions about handlebar, brifter, and stem reaches one > may come up with a criterion for top tube length, but if you don't specify > the seat tube angle, seatpost setback, saddle design, and saddle > positioning, it is not possible to compare frames based on TT length. The > difference in this rear half of the reach among different frame arrangements > can be in the 4 cm range. How can one say "I need 53 cm, and 54 is too > long" if there could be a 4 cm difference in hand gripping position? > > -- > Ken Freeman > Ann Arbor, MI USA -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Grant discounts the value of top tube length
Perhaps I'm reading this incorrectly but I think we're misreading Grant's comments on TT length. He is not saying that TT length is unimportant, only that it is a dependent variable. I think the understanding of "the TT is not important" should be restated as "the TT is a dependent variable", in that after one tries to tweak the important independent variables, and the TT will be whatever it will be. See http://www.rivbike.com/blogs/news_post/251 On Aug 9, 8:01 pm, kps wrote: > On Aug 9, 9:35 pm, cyclotourist wrote: > > > Every woman I know has had a tremendously hard time fitting frames (whatever > > the maker) due to "reach." > > it's definitely a factor for me. i'm 5'8-1/2" or so, with a pbh of > 84.45 -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Need 650b Tires
I've commuted on Maxy Fastys, CdlV's, and Schwalbe Marathons, and have several hundred non-commuting miles on FR's. I had way too many flats on both the MF's and CdlV's. MF's I can understand, they are not designed for flat-resistance. At one point I had five flats in six days on the CdlV's. That was the last straw, so I bought the Marathons. Mounted them up with the same inner tubes as in the CdlV's. No more flats. They accelerate more slowly, but my 12 mile each way commute time is not noticeably slower (consistently 48 - 50 minutes, depending on stoplight delays). The comfort is about on a par with any other tire of a similar width and pressure (50 - 55 lb in my case). Since I absolutely, positively want to get to work on time, I'm sticking with the Schwalbes for commuting. I have never commuted on the FR's, but have done many 40 mile rides on the American River bike trail in Sacramento on them, taken them camping, etc. They can be had cheap, don't seem to flat often, roll reasonably well though there's a little buzzing from the tread pattern, weigh about 200 gm less than the Schwalbes, and given the choice I'd ride them instead of CdlV's any time over any terrain, and probably instead of the Marathons if I wasn't so prone to flatting on my commute. They don't suck IMO. Bill On Aug 9, 12:24 pm, d2mini wrote: > Thanks, Lee! > Not overboard at all. ;) > > These will be going on my Homer. > I currently have just the rear rack installed with an Arkel Tail Rider > and I switch back and forth between a side pannier and a messenger bag > depending on my mood. > Usually I'm only carrying clothes and other odd/ends for the day, no > touring, strictly commuting. > > I'm looking for durability, comfort and speed, probably in that order. > But speed is still important, just the least of the three. In other > words, I don't want something that is *noticeably* sluggish compared > to the NS. But if it's really slight and I'm gaining something > somewhere else, than that's ok. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
Re: [RBW] Re: Grant discounts the value of top tube length
it's a factor for me too - 84.5 pbh and 5'11 for me. not totally sure how to compensate.. i end up pushing the seat way back and putting the bars up high .. but i think that unweights the front end a bit too much, and contributes to wandering handling on my Sam Hillborne. -andrew On Aug 9, 2010, at 8:01 PM, kps wrote: > > > On Aug 9, 9:35 pm, cyclotourist wrote: >> Every woman I know has had a tremendously hard time fitting frames (whatever >> the maker) due to "reach." > > it's definitely a factor for me. i'm 5'8-1/2" or so, with a pbh of > 84.45 > > -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > "RBW Owners Bunch" group. > To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to > rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. > For more options, visit this group at > http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
Re: [RBW] F.S. two Brand New Elite Ciussi Button - Alloy water bottles
The bottle cages are sold. Thank you. -Original Message- >From: Rene >Sent: Aug 9, 2010 7:53 PM >To: RBW Owners Bunch >Subject: [RBW] F.S. two Brand New Elite Ciussi Button - Alloy water bottles > >I am selling two brand new Elite Ciussi Button Alloy water bottles. >They are not what I expected. So I am selling both at their combined >original price of $17.98. I will pay for the shipping within the >continental USA. The link to the online store where I bought them is >here: > >http://tinyurl.com/35embr8 > >Please contact me off-list if interested. I prefer paypal payment. > >Thank you. > >Rene > > >-- >You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW >Owners Bunch" group. >To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. >To unsubscribe from this group, send email to >rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. >For more options, visit this group at >http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Need 650b Tires
I've had Marathons on my Bleriot for the past 15 monthszero flats (and almost no wear). It wore CDL'vs before that for 13 months and had 6 flats...yes, I keep a spreadsheet (GEEK alert)! I've also had used Schwalbes (Marathon Racers) on my Rambouillet for over 18 months and had only one flat. Rob "becoming a Schwalbe convert" Markwardt -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: VO 50.4 BCD Crankset is here
Wow! I sometimes have mixed feelings about VO but this is really a good thing. I imagine I'll have these on my Hilsen by the the end of the year. I have a 46/34 double on there now, can I keep using the same derailer (Campy compact dbl)? --mike -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Root beer Rambouillet
That's a nice looking frame, and it's my size. If I had an extra $1700... I've never purchased something from eBay. I hope to keep it that way. --mike On Aug 9, 7:20 pm, cyclotourist wrote: > Speaking of ebay and Rivendell, this frame is stunning: > > http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=330459226341 > > Someone please buy it! > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
Re: [RBW] Re: Grant discounts the value of top tube length
Richard Sachs builds his bikes around the top tube length. However, he assumes a 100 cm stem and a certain reach on the bar. That is why Sachs frames have really odd frame angles with numbers like 72.454 The angles fit around the top tube based upon a 1 meter wheelbase On Tue, Aug 10, 2010 at 11:49 AM, andrew hill wrote: > it's a factor for me too - 84.5 pbh and 5'11 for me. > > not totally sure how to compensate.. i end up pushing the seat way back and > putting the bars up high .. but i think that unweights the front end a bit > too much, and contributes to wandering handling on my Sam Hillborne. > > -andrew > > On Aug 9, 2010, at 8:01 PM, kps wrote: > > > > > > > On Aug 9, 9:35 pm, cyclotourist wrote: > >> Every woman I know has had a tremendously hard time fitting frames > (whatever > >> the maker) due to "reach." > > > > it's definitely a factor for me. i'm 5'8-1/2" or so, with a pbh of > > 84.45 > > > > -- > > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > "RBW Owners Bunch" group. > > To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. > > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to > rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com > . > > For more options, visit this group at > http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. > > > > -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > "RBW Owners Bunch" group. > To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to > rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com > . > For more options, visit this group at > http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. > > -- Fai Mao The Blogger who sometimes responds to comments -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
Re: [RBW] VO 50.4 BCD Crankset is here
I would run a 13 - 28 8 speed with that but would rather have a 26-38-48 up front On Tue, Aug 10, 2010 at 11:04 AM, Michael_S wrote: > The new 50.4 bcd TA Cyclotourist copy crankset is now in stock at VO. > Looks very nice and shiny! The stock 46-30 combo seems like it would > work well most flatter places. Though it seems like 46t ring would get > a lot use to me since the 30 would only be needed climbing? What > freewheel/cassette do most people run in hilly areas with this set? > > -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > "RBW Owners Bunch" group. > To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to > rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com > . > For more options, visit this group at > http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. > > -- Fai Mao The Blogger who sometimes responds to comments -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
Re: [RBW] Re: Root beer Rambouillet
Oh man, that is beautiful...and perfectly sized for me Hm, I could buy it...as long as I can come and live with someone on the list, 'cause I'd be lookin' for new digs once my wife found out;) Rob in Seattle On Aug 9, 2010, at 7:20 PM, cyclotourist wrote: Speaking of ebay and Rivendell, this frame is stunning: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=330459226341 Someone please buy it! -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
Re: [RBW] Re: Root beer Rambouillet
On Mon, Aug 9, 2010 at 14:59, Steve Palincsar wrote: > How would this be an improvement over simply bidding as much as you are > actually willing to pay in the first place? >From eBay Psychology 101: If you bid earlier, the selling price is likely to be higher. The longer the price is high, the more time the bidders will have to convince themselves that they'll actually pay more than they would have decided otherwise. When I really want to try to get a good deal on something, I will always wait till the last minute (and I should really start using that sniping software). James Black -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Grant discounts the value of top tube length
Wow! I have a 86.4 PBH and am also 5' 11" with a short reach (short arms) My current bike (Surly Trucker) is similar to the Atlantis and has a fairly long top tube for a 58cm frame and I switched to a 75mm stem and viola the fit is now perfect for me given the top tube length. I shove my B17 all the way back in my Nitto two bolt post and my bars are a little above saddle height. I had used a 90 mm stem but never could get comfortable. This small change has made this bike worth keeping. I think your legs are shorter and you may benefit from moving the saddle forward 2 cm +/- and lowering your bar to level with the saddle. Maybe even getting a longer stem too. It sounds like you have a longer trunk and shorter legs than me although arm length can have a big effect too. Your maxed out setback and high bar will reduce weight on the front end and put more on your saddle. You need to experiment and find what works for your body. On Aug 9, 8:49 pm, andrew hill wrote: > it's a factor for me too - 84.5 pbh and 5'11 for me. > > not totally sure how to compensate.. i end up pushing the seat way back and > putting the bars up high .. but i think that unweights the front end a bit > too much, and contributes to wandering handling on my Sam Hillborne. > > -andrew > > On Aug 9, 2010, at 8:01 PM, kps wrote: > > > > > On Aug 9, 9:35 pm, cyclotourist wrote: > >> Every woman I know has had a tremendously hard time fitting frames > >> (whatever > >> the maker) due to "reach." > > > it's definitely a factor for me. i'm 5'8-1/2" or so, with a pbh of > > 84.45 > > > -- > > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > > "RBW Owners Bunch" group. > > To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. > > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to > > rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. > > For more options, visit this group > > athttp://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
