Re: Stus-List depth finder display

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

What make and model?

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of McElwreath, 
Daniel via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, June 14, 2015 5:08 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: McElwreath, Daniel
Subject: Stus-List depth finder display

The readout on my cockpit depth display on 1980 cnc 32 is barely readable in 
the daylight. I have been unable to find a source for simply replacing the 
displau unit.  Can that be done? or do I have to buy a complete set, with 
transducer, etc.  Thanks for any guidance. Dan Mc on Tively II at City Island
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Stus-List 34+ transom thru-hulls

[Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List]

Hi David, 

Congrats on getting the 34+. I've owned mine for 3 years and still think I 
could not have possibly gotten a better boat for what we do.  The promise 
is that is gives you plentiful room and comfort at the marina / anchor and 
runs like a bat out of he$$ around the cans..   It does just that. 

All your questions are really straightforward. 

Exhaust hose:  I replaced mine last year, it's not that bad. Your idea of 
connecting the old one to the new one is excellent.  I just wrestled my 
old one out and taped a fiberglass wiring rod to the new one to pull some 
/ guide it.  The trick is to remove all the aft stateroom cushions then 
remove the fuel tank access panel and the wooden blocks that are screwed / 
wedged-in securing the fuel tank and find a way to jack-up tank to 
facilitate threading the new hose in under it ( I used 2 x 2's) . 

The challenge to thread the new hose is to line it up between the exposed 
strut bolts.  Stick to the original hose construction / diameter and 
you'll be fine.  It's a bit of a sweaty wrestling match but you and 1 
other guy should be able to knock it out in less than 1 hour. 

"Through-Hulls" 

None of what you mentioned is below the waterline at rest. They get 
dipped-in some when motoring or sailing in excess of 5 or so knots but 
that's nothing that the standard siphon loops can't handle. The 34+ is the 
last of the Canadian C&C's and after 35 + odd years of designing racer 
cruisers they had it down.. Rob Ball knew what he was doing. 

FYI, all through hulls on mine are Marelon.  I close them all everytime I 
leave the boat and they works well, 

Also, there are no cockpit or deck scuppers on the boat.  All cockpit 
/deck water simply flows out the stern / swim platform area in a modern 
open stern / sport boat style.  On my boat there's a drain for the propane 
locker, also well designed.  No need to seal / mess with it as propane is 
heavier than air and flows down the drain like water with its exit above 
the waterline at rest  There's no quadrant well.  On my boat The rudder 
shaft goes up to the quadrant that is mounted on top and flush with the 
cockpit sub-floor.  All that is easily accessible by simply removing the 
triangular fiberglass cover. 

Feel free to PM me for more details on how to tune the boat  / other 
questions of you want. 


-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA

 





Subject: Re: Stus-List 34+ transom thru-hulls
Message-ID: 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

I said "appear" to be below the waterline because the boat's not in the 
water, isn't going in the water anytime soon, and I've never actually 
seen one of these in the water :)  All four thru-hulls are under the 
transom counter and below the boot stripe as well as below the waterline
 as defined by the existing bottom paint, so I have to assume they are 
submerged with the boat floating level.  Given their location in the 
bowels of the stern lazarettes, I know accessing them is a pain but I'm 
paranoid enough that I'd close them when I'm leaving the boat on her 
mooring and not returning for a span of days at a time.  On second 
though, I'd have to leave the two small ones open because those are 
scuppers, so no sense in valves on them at all.

Here's a pic of the two port side thru hulls, big one is the exhaust.  2 
more on the stbd side in the same configuration.

So I'm the proud new owner of a '90 34+, and the first project I bit off 
was replacement of the exhaust hose from the muffer back, including the 
thru-hull.

First off, this is not going to be fun because the hose runs under the 
fuel tank and span of the cockpit under the water heater where it is 
completely inaccessible.  I'm hoping I'll be able to pull the new hose 
through by clamping it to the old hose with a double-ended barb, but it 
seems like it's an awful tight fit under the tank.  If anyone else has 
done this job and has any suggestions, I'm all ears.

Second, the thru-hulls themselves.  There are 4 thru-hulls just under the 
transom - the exhaust, the two drains for the propane tank & steering 
quadrant well, and the bilge pump.  All 4 are plastic mushroom-head 
thru-hulls, and I want to replace at least the exhaust thru-hull with a 
new marelon one.  Question:  none of these thru-hulls have seacocks on 
them, which seems odd (and unwise) to me because they appear to be below 
the waterline.  What are your thoughts on putting a marelon ball valve on 
the new thru hull while I'm at it?  I'm tempted to replace all 4 of them 
with new thru-hull and valves.  Am I just being paranoid?

Thanks all.  I'm thrilled to have this boat and I'm sure I'll be pestering 
the heck out of this board!

-Dave
 1990 C&C 34+ "Faith Anne"



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Re: Stus-List Following R2AK (was thru-hulls)

[Jim Watts via CnC-List]

The R2AK has been a phenomenal race, and it still is. 20 minutes difference
between second and third after 750 agonizing miles. There's a three-way
fight for the next spot, and the Soggy Beavers have done an amazing job
just getting to Bella Bella.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 14 June 2015 at 13:35, Martin DeYoung via CnC-List  wrote:

>  Following R2AK on-line continues to be great entertainment.  What a
> great sail - human powered adventure.  Sailing Anarchy and 48 North's
> coverage has been good, the tracker has been on my screen 5 + times a day
> since it started.
>
>
>
> Calypso's co-owner and I were joking about adding 3 or 4 stationary bikes
> below for speed in light air.  I volunteered to stay on deck and drive.
> Based on my last trip up the inside of Vancouver Island a boat like Calypso
> would do OK going up wind in Johnstone Strait but would suffer in the
> common light air conditions.  We would eat and sleep well.
>
>
>
> If we won the $10K first prize it would just about cover the stationary
> bikes (used), the food, and the delivery costs back to Seattle.  It would
> not cover the physical therapy costs for a bunch of old guys working that
> hard to avoid using auxiliary power.
>
>
>
> Martin
>
> Calypso
>
> 1971 C&C 43
>
> Seattle
>  --
> *From:* CnC-List [cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] on behalf of Russ &
> Melody via CnC-List [cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
> *Sent:* Sunday, June 14, 2015 11:59 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Russ & Melody
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List thru-hulls & R2AK
>
>
> Bear in mind that if you combine two scuppers into one then one of then
> will probably not drain when heeled. Of course this only matters if you're
> sailing and get water at your feet. :)
>
> Cheers, Russ
> *Sweet *35 mk-1
>
> Anyone watching the R2AK? Too bad no C&C got into it... on the other hand,
> Francis (crew on MOB* Mentality) sails a C&C 115.
> * = Mail Order Bride
>
> At 10:45 AM 14/06/2015, you wrote:
>
> [Resending to list with your image removed since it exceeded msg size
> limits]
>
> Oh, yeah those look below waterline, I would want seacocks on them. I was
> thinking your transom extended further back + up, but those are below the
> bootstripe and close to the rudder.Â
>
> You could also combine the two scuppers into one outlet and then plug or
> remove a thruhull so you have one fewer. I assume those are deck scuppers
> and not cockpit scuppers. That's how my deck scuppers are setup, and they
> don't need rapid self bailing like the cockpit does.Â
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List 34+ transom thru-hulls

[davepulaski via CnC-List]

Thanks for all the info François!   Yes I've come to accept that those stern 
thru-hulls are in fact above DWL, regardless of what the painted waterline 
says.  I'm leaning towards not going to seacocks now, probably will at least 
replace the old thru-hull though with a new marelon one while I'm in there.  
Thanks for the tip on jacking up the fuel tank!

You're correct - the 2 small lines are for draining the propane tank 
compartment under the quadrant panel.  I like that the cockpit doesn't need 
scuppers!

While I have you - what are your thoughts on the rod rigging on these boats?  
AFAIK, she has all her original standing rigging.   Yes she's been only in 
fresh water so far, but the age still gives me pause.   Have you rerigged yet?

Dave
1990 34+ "Faith Anne"

Sent from my T-Mobile Galaxy Note 2

 Original message 
From: Jean-Francois J Rivard  
Date: 06/15/2015  10:45  (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: davepula...@hotmail.com 
Subject: Stus-List 34+ transom thru-hulls 
 
Hi David, 

Congrats on getting the 34+. I've owned mine for 3 years and still think I 
could not have possibly gotten a better boat for what we do.  The promise is 
that is gives you plentiful room and comfort at the marina / anchor and runs 
like a bat out of he$$ around the cans..   It does just that.   

All your questions are really straightforward. 

Exhaust hose:  I replaced mine last year, it's not that bad. Your idea of 
connecting the old one to the new one is excellent.  I just wrestled my old one 
out and taped a fiberglass wiring rod to the new one to pull some / guide it.  
The trick is to remove all the aft stateroom cushions then remove the fuel tank 
access panel and the wooden blocks that are screwed / wedged-in securing the 
fuel tank and find a way to jack-up tank to facilitate threading the new hose 
in under it ( I used 2 x 2's) .  

The challenge to thread the new hose is to line it up between the exposed strut 
bolts.  Stick to the original hose construction / diameter and you'll be fine.  
It's a bit of a sweaty wrestling match but you and 1 other guy should be able 
to knock it out in less than 1 hour. 

"Through-Hulls"  

None of what you mentioned is below the waterline at rest. They get dipped-in 
some when motoring or sailing in excess of 5 or so knots but that's nothing 
that the standard siphon loops can't handle. The 34+ is the last of the 
Canadian C&C's and after 35 + odd years of designing racer cruisers they had it 
down.. Rob Ball knew what he was doing. 

FYI, all through hulls on mine are Marelon.  I close them all everytime I leave 
the boat and they works well, 

Also, there are no cockpit or deck scuppers on the boat.  All cockpit /deck 
water simply flows out the stern / swim platform area in a modern open stern / 
sport boat style.  On my boat there's a drain for the propane locker, also well 
designed.  No need to seal / mess with it as propane is heavier than air and 
flows down the drain like water with its exit above the waterline at rest  
There's no quadrant well.  On my boat The rudder shaft goes up to the quadrant 
that is mounted on top and flush with the cockpit sub-floor.  All that is 
easily accessible by simply removing the triangular fiberglass cover.  

Feel free to PM me for more details on how to tune the boat  / other questions 
of you want. 


-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA

 





Subject: Re: Stus-List 34+ transom thru-hulls
Message-ID: 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

I said "appear" to be below the waterline because the boat's not in the 
water, isn't going in the water anytime soon, and I've never actually 
seen one of these in the water :)  All four thru-hulls are under the 
transom counter and below the boot stripe as well as below the waterline
 as defined by the existing bottom paint, so I have to assume they are 
submerged with the boat floating level.  Given their location in the 
bowels of the stern lazarettes, I know accessing them is a pain but I'm 
paranoid enough that I'd close them when I'm leaving the boat on her 
mooring and not returning for a span of days at a time.  On second 
though, I'd have to leave the two small ones open because those are 
scuppers, so no sense in valves on them at all.

Here's a pic of the two port side thru hulls, big one is the exhaust.  2 more 
on the stbd side in the same configuration.

So I'm the proud new owner of a '90 34+, and the first project I bit off was 
replacement of the exhaust hose from the muffer back, including the thru-hull.

First off, this is not going to be fun because the hose runs under the fuel 
tank and span of the cockpit under the water heater where it is completely 
inaccessible.  I'm hoping I'll be able to pull the new hose through by clamping 
it to the old hose with a double-ended barb, but it seems like it's an awful 
tight fit under the tank.  If anyone else has done this job and has any 
suggestions, I'm all ears.

Second,

Re: Stus-List 34+ transom thru-hulls

[Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List]

Rod Rigging.  Mine is also original and the boat has been freshwater for 
all its life except for 4 years.  I discussed the rig with one of the few 
(And be most accounts: the best) factory certified Navtec guys in the 
southeast  (Rick Zern) and his advice was: Have your local guy take a look 
at it (While it's down if possible) or you can look at it yourself. Here's 
what you look for:  No kinks, make sure the tangs (mast attachment ball / 
socket joints) are not deformed, can rotate smoothly, and are free of 
rust.  Same with the eyes / toggles / turnbuckles: free of rust, smooth 
turning. If that passes muster, don't worry about it. 

As you know, rod riggings are extremely stout and don't really stretch 
much at all.  If it has been abused, mistreated, or over-stressed in a 
storm, the aluminum mast structure around the tang area will deform,  same 
for the threads on the turnbuckles: They will get distorted long before 
the rods or heads get damaged. 

Rick told me that being a certfied Navtec rigger he decided to remove his 
and have it lab tested.  Keep in mind his boat (J-boat) had been raced 
hard in salt water for  15-20+ years / his rod rigging was original. 
Results after the dye and destructive tests done: Nothing wrong.  In his 
words:  It was a waste of money and efforts. 

His words (Again) if you're about to embark on extended ocean crossing 
passages then by all means spend the money to get work done as insurance. 
For the rest of us lake and coastal cruisers:  Keep sailing and taking 
reasonable care of your rig. 

Regards, 

-Francois
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA



















 




From:   davepulaski 
To: Jean-Francois J Rivard/Atlanta/IBM@IBMUS, cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Date:   06/15/2015 11:26 AM
Subject:RE: Stus-List 34+ transom thru-hulls



Thanks for all the info François!   Yes I've come to accept that those 
stern thru-hulls are in fact above DWL, regardless of what the painted 
waterline says.  I'm leaning towards not going to seacocks now, probably 
will at least replace the old thru-hull though with a new marelon one 
while I'm in there.  Thanks for the tip on jacking up the fuel tank!

You're correct - the 2 small lines are for draining the propane tank 
compartment under the quadrant panel.  I like that the cockpit doesn't 
need scuppers!

While I have you - what are your thoughts on the rod rigging on these 
boats?  AFAIK, she has all her original standing rigging.   Yes she's been 
only in fresh water so far, but the age still gives me pause.   Have you 
rerigged yet?

Dave
1990 34+ "Faith Anne"

Sent from my T-Mobile Galaxy Note 2


 Original message 
From: Jean-Francois J Rivard  
Date: 06/15/2015 10:45 (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: davepula...@hotmail.com 
Subject: Stus-List 34+ transom thru-hulls 


Hi David, 

Congrats on getting the 34+. I've owned mine for 3 years and still think I 
could not have possibly gotten a better boat for what we do.  The promise 
is that is gives you plentiful room and comfort at the marina / anchor and 
runs like a bat out of he$$ around the cans..   It does just that.   

All your questions are really straightforward. 

Exhaust hose:  I replaced mine last year, it's not that bad. Your idea of 
connecting the old one to the new one is excellent.  I just wrestled my 
old one out and taped a fiberglass wiring rod to the new one to pull some 
/ guide it.  The trick is to remove all the aft stateroom cushions then 
remove the fuel tank access panel and the wooden blocks that are screwed / 
wedged-in securing the fuel tank and find a way to jack-up tank to 
facilitate threading the new hose in under it ( I used 2 x 2's) .  

The challenge to thread the new hose is to line it up between the exposed 
strut bolts.  Stick to the original hose construction / diameter and 
you'll be fine.  It's a bit of a sweaty wrestling match but you and 1 
other guy should be able to knock it out in less than 1 hour. 

"Through-Hulls"  

None of what you mentioned is below the waterline at rest. They get 
dipped-in some when motoring or sailing in excess of 5 or so knots but 
that's nothing that the standard siphon loops can't handle. The 34+ is the 
last of the Canadian C&C's and after 35 + odd years of designing racer 
cruisers they had it down.. Rob Ball knew what he was doing. 

FYI, all through hulls on mine are Marelon.  I close them all everytime I 
leave the boat and they works well, 

Also, there are no cockpit or deck scuppers on the boat.  All cockpit 
/deck water simply flows out the stern / swim platform area in a modern 
open stern / sport boat style.  On my boat there's a drain for the propane 
locker, also well designed.  No need to seal / mess with it as propane is 
heavier than air and flows down the drain like water with its exit above 
the waterline at rest  There's no quadrant well.  On my boat The rudder 
shaft goes up to the quadrant that is mounted on top and flush with the 
cockpit s

Re: Stus-List 34+ transom thru-hulls

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

FWIW, Navtec recommends re-heading every 10 years or 10,000 miles.

Joel
35/3
The Office

On Mon, Jun 15, 2015 at 12:15 PM, Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Rod Rigging.  Mine is also original and the boat has been freshwater for
> all its life except for 4 years.  I discussed the rig with one of the few
> (And be most accounts: the best) factory certified Navtec guys in the
> southeast  (Rick Zern) and his advice was: Have your local guy take a look
> at it (While it's down if possible) or you can look at it yourself.  Here's
> what you look for:  No kinks, make sure the tangs (mast attachment ball /
> socket joints) are not deformed, can rotate smoothly, and are free of
> rust.  Same with the eyes / toggles / turnbuckles: free of rust, smooth
> turning. If that passes muster, don't worry about it.
>
> As you know, rod riggings are extremely stout and don't really stretch
> much at all.  If it has been abused, mistreated, or over-stressed in a
> storm, the aluminum mast structure around the tang area will deform,  same
> for the threads on the turnbuckles: They will get distorted long before the
> rods or heads get damaged.
>
> Rick told me that being a certfied Navtec rigger he decided to remove his
> and have it lab tested.  Keep in mind his boat (J-boat) had been raced hard
> in salt water for  15-20+ years / his rod rigging was original.  Results
> after the dye and destructive tests done: Nothing wrong.  In his words:  It
> was a waste of money and efforts.
>
> His words (Again) if you're about to embark on extended ocean crossing
> passages then by all means spend the money to get work done as insurance.
> For the rest of us lake and coastal cruisers:  Keep sailing and taking
> reasonable care of your rig.
>
> Regards,
>
> -Francois
> 1990 34+ "Take Five"
> Lake Lanier, GA
>
>
>
>
>
> From:davepulaski 
> To:Jean-Francois J Rivard/Atlanta/IBM@IBMUS, cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Date:06/15/2015 11:26 AM
> Subject:RE: Stus-List 34+ transom thru-hulls
> --
>
>
>
> Thanks for all the info François!   Yes I've come to accept that those
> stern thru-hulls are in fact above DWL, regardless of what the painted
> waterline says.  I'm leaning towards not going to seacocks now, probably
> will at least replace the old thru-hull though with a new marelon one while
> I'm in there.  Thanks for the tip on jacking up the fuel tank!
>
> You're correct - the 2 small lines are for draining the propane tank
> compartment under the quadrant panel.  I like that the cockpit doesn't need
> scuppers!
>
> While I have you - what are your thoughts on the rod rigging on these
> boats?  AFAIK, she has all her original standing rigging.   Yes she's been
> only in fresh water so far, but the age still gives me pause.   Have you
> rerigged yet?
>
> Dave
> 1990 34+ "Faith Anne"
>
> Sent from my T-Mobile Galaxy Note 2
>
>
>  Original message 
> From: Jean-Francois J Rivard 
> Date: 06/15/2015 10:45 (GMT-05:00)
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: davepula...@hotmail.com
> Subject: Stus-List 34+ transom thru-hulls
>
>
> Hi David,
>
> Congrats on getting the 34+. I've owned mine for 3 years and still think I
> could not have possibly gotten a better boat for what we do.  The promise
> is that is gives you plentiful room and comfort at the marina / anchor and
> runs like a bat out of he$$ around the cans..   It does just that.
>
> All your questions are really straightforward.
>
> Exhaust hose:  I replaced mine last year, it's not that bad. Your idea of
> connecting the old one to the new one is excellent.  I just wrestled my old
> one out and taped a fiberglass wiring rod to the new one to pull some /
> guide it.  The trick is to remove all the aft stateroom cushions then
> remove the fuel tank access panel and the wooden blocks that are screwed /
> wedged-in securing the fuel tank and find a way to jack-up tank to
> facilitate threading the new hose in under it ( I used 2 x 2's) .
>
> The challenge to thread the new hose is to line it up between the exposed
> strut bolts.  Stick to the original hose construction / diameter and you'll
> be fine.  It's a bit of a sweaty wrestling match but you and 1 other guy
> should be able to knock it out in less than 1 hour.
>
> "Through-Hulls"
>
> None of what you mentioned is below the waterline at rest. They get
> dipped-in some when motoring or sailing in excess of 5 or so knots but
> that's nothing that the standard siphon loops can't handle. The 34+ is the
> last of the Canadian C&C's and after 35 + odd years of designing racer
> cruisers they had it down.. Rob Ball knew what he was doing.
>
> FYI, all through hulls on mine are Marelon.  I close them all everytime I
> leave the boat and they works well,
>
> Also, there are no cockpit or deck scuppers on the boat.  All cockpit
> /deck water simply flows out the stern / swim platform area in a modern
> open stern / sport boat style.  On my b

Re: Stus-List Emergency Tiller Bracket Squeaking

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

Jim,  I do have a cover at my emergency tiller stock, but it doesn't keep
the water out. I have not experienced the squeak at the stock so can't
offer advice there. Is it possible to use something a bit heavier than
McLube, but lighter than standard grease. Triflow or similar?

Kevin
30-2 Osprey

On Sun, Jun 14, 2015 at 3:21 PM Jim Reinardy via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hello All,
>
>
>
> I have a persistent squeak when I turn the wheel on my 30-2.  I have
> traced it to the emergency tiller bracket in the back of the cockpit.I
> can spray McLube in there and it will go away for a short time, but always
> comes back, especially after a rain.   Was there originally a cover on the
> bracket, BTW?
>
>
>
> I don’t see a grease fitting like the lower part of the shaft has, or
> another way to get a better lubricant in there.
>
>
>
> Anyone had this issue before?  I am reluctant to remove the bracket for
> fear of causing larger issues with the steering system, so reassurance
> there would also be helpful.
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
>
> Jim Reinardy
>
> C&C 30-2 “Firewater”
>
> Milwaukee, WI
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Emergency Tiller Bracket Squeaking

[Andrew Burton via CnC-List]

My 40 and the 41 I'm delivering south from St John, NB at the moment both have 
grease fitting on the tube. These are packed with grease and you give them a 
turn every now and then to lube the tube. Mine hadn't been done for quite some 
time so it needed to be repacked twice before I was confident there was enough 
grease in there. That eliminated the squeak for me.

Andy
C&C 40
Peregrine

Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett
Newport, RI 
USA02840

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260

> On Jun 15, 2015, at 13:20, Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Jim,  I do have a cover at my emergency tiller stock, but it doesn't keep the 
> water out. I have not experienced the squeak at the stock so can't offer 
> advice there. Is it possible to use something a bit heavier than McLube, but 
> lighter than standard grease. Triflow or similar?
> 
> Kevin 
> 30-2 Osprey
> 
>> On Sun, Jun 14, 2015 at 3:21 PM Jim Reinardy via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> Hello All,
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> I have a persistent squeak when I turn the wheel on my 30-2.  I have traced 
>> it to the emergency tiller bracket in the back of the cockpit.I can 
>> spray McLube in there and it will go away for a short time, but always comes 
>> back, especially after a rain.   Was there originally a cover on the 
>> bracket, BTW?
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> I don’t see a grease fitting like the lower part of the shaft has, or 
>> another way to get a better lubricant in there. 
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Anyone had this issue before?  I am reluctant to remove the bracket for fear 
>> of causing larger issues with the steering system, so reassurance there 
>> would also be helpful.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Thanks,
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Jim Reinardy
>> 
>> C&C 30-2 “Firewater”
>> 
>> Milwaukee, WI
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
>> of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>> 
> ___
> 
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> of page at:
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> 
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Re: Stus-List Emergency Tiller Bracket Squeaking

[Jim Reinardy via CnC-List]

Hi Andy,


Thanks for the reply.  Are you talking about the lower tube where the post goes 
into the glass tube and ultimately out the bottom, or the top of the tube where 
it meets the cockpit floor?.  I put quite a bit of grease in the lower fitting 
last year in a futile attempt to get rid of the squeak.  The only thing that 
seems to help is getting some lube on the emergency tiller bracket in my case.


Jim






Sent from Windows Mail





From: Edd Schillay via CnC-List
Sent: ‎Monday‎, ‎June‎ ‎15‎, ‎2015 ‎12‎:‎44‎ ‎PM
To: Edd Schillay via CnC-List
Cc: Andrew Burton





My 40 and the 41 I'm delivering south from St John, NB at the moment both have 
grease fitting on the tube. These are packed with grease and you give them a 
turn every now and then to lube the tube. Mine hadn't been done for quite some 
time so it needed to be repacked twice before I was confident there was enough 
grease in there. That eliminated the squeak for me.




Andy

C&C 40

Peregrine

Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett

Newport, RI 

USA02840



http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260


On Jun 15, 2015, at 13:20, Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List  
wrote:





Jim,  I do have a cover at my emergency tiller stock, but it doesn't keep the 
water out. I have not experienced the squeak at the stock so can't offer advice 
there. Is it possible to use something a bit heavier than McLube, but lighter 
than standard grease. Triflow or similar?




Kevin 

30-2 Osprey



On Sun, Jun 14, 2015 at 3:21 PM Jim Reinardy via CnC-List 
 wrote:





Hello All,

 

I have a persistent squeak when I turn the wheel on my 30-2.  I have traced it 
to the emergency tiller bracket in the back of the cockpit.I can spray 
McLube in there and it will go away for a short time, but always comes back, 
especially after a rain.   Was there originally a cover on the bracket, BTW?

 

I don’t see a grease fitting like the lower part of the shaft has, or another 
way to get a better lubricant in there.  

 

Anyone had this issue before?  I am reluctant to remove the bracket for fear of 
causing larger issues with the steering system, so reassurance there would also 
be helpful.

 

Thanks,

 

Jim Reinardy

C&C 30-2 “Firewater”

Milwaukee, WI 
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Re: Stus-List Emergency Tiller Bracket Squeaking

[Andrew Burton via CnC-List]

Yes, the lower tube. Not only got rid of the squeak for me ,  but freed up the 
steering so driving became a real pleasure.

Andy

Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett
Newport, RI 
USA02840

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260

> On Jun 15, 2015, at 14:01, Jim Reinardy via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Hi Andy,
> 
> Thanks for the reply.  Are you talking about the lower tube where the post 
> goes into the glass tube and ultimately out the bottom, or the top of the 
> tube where it meets the cockpit floor?.  I put quite a bit of grease in the 
> lower fitting last year in a futile attempt to get rid of the squeak.  The 
> only thing that seems to help is getting some lube on the emergency tiller 
> bracket in my case.
> 
> Jim
> 
> Sent from Windows Mail
> 
> From: Edd Schillay via CnC-List
> Sent: ‎Monday‎, ‎June‎ ‎15‎, ‎2015 ‎12‎:‎44‎ ‎PM
> To: Edd Schillay via CnC-List
> Cc: Andrew Burton
> 
> My 40 and the 41 I'm delivering south from St John, NB at the moment both 
> have grease fitting on the tube. These are packed with grease and you give 
> them a turn every now and then to lube the tube. Mine hadn't been done for 
> quite some time so it needed to be repacked twice before I was confident 
> there was enough grease in there. That eliminated the squeak for me.
> 
> Andy
> C&C 40
> Peregrine
> 
> Andrew Burton
> 61 W Narragansett
> Newport, RI 
> USA02840
> 
> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
> +401 965-5260
> 
> On Jun 15, 2015, at 13:20, Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Jim,  I do have a cover at my emergency tiller stock, but it doesn't keep the 
> water out. I have not experienced the squeak at the stock so can't offer 
> advice there. Is it possible to use something a bit heavier than McLube, but 
> lighter than standard grease. Triflow or similar?
> 
> Kevin 
> 30-2 Osprey
> 
>> On Sun, Jun 14, 2015 at 3:21 PM Jim Reinardy via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> Hello All,
>>  
>> I have a persistent squeak when I turn the wheel on my 30-2.  I have traced 
>> it to the emergency tiller bracket in the back of the cockpit.I can 
>> spray McLube in there and it will go away for a short time, but always comes 
>> back, especially after a rain.   Was there originally a cover on the 
>> bracket, BTW?
>>  
>> I don’t see a grease fitting like the lower part of the shaft has, or 
>> another way to get a better lubricant in there. 
>>  
>> Anyone had this issue before?  I am reluctant to remove the bracket for fear 
>> of causing larger issues with the steering system, so reassurance there 
>> would also be helpful.
>>  
>> Thanks,
>>  
>> Jim Reinardy
>> C&C 30-2 “Firewater”
>> Milwaukee, WI
>> ___
>> 
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
>> of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
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> 
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Re: Stus-List Emergency Tiller Bracket Squeaking

[Jim Reinardy via CnC-List]

OK thanks.  It made some difference for me at the time as well.  I was not even 
looking for a grease fitting back there until one of the other 30-2 owners on 
this list made me aware of it.


Regards,


Jim Reinardy

C&C 30-2 “Firewater”

Milwaukee, WI 






Sent from Windows Mail





From: Edd Schillay via CnC-List
Sent: ‎Monday‎, ‎June‎ ‎15‎, ‎2015 ‎1‎:‎08‎ ‎PM
To: Edd Schillay via CnC-List
Cc: Andrew Burton





Yes, the lower tube. Not only got rid of the squeak for me ,  but freed up the 
steering so driving became a real pleasure.




Andy


Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett

Newport, RI 

USA02840



http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260


On Jun 15, 2015, at 14:01, Jim Reinardy via CnC-List  
wrote:





Hi Andy,




Thanks for the reply.  Are you talking about the lower tube where the post goes 
into the glass tube and ultimately out the bottom, or the top of the tube where 
it meets the cockpit floor?.  I put quite a bit of grease in the lower fitting 
last year in a futile attempt to get rid of the squeak.  The only thing that 
seems to help is getting some lube on the emergency tiller bracket in my case.




Jim






Sent from Windows Mail





From: Edd Schillay via CnC-List
Sent: ‎Monday‎, ‎June‎ ‎15‎, ‎2015 ‎12‎:‎44‎ ‎PM
To: Edd Schillay via CnC-List
Cc: Andrew Burton





My 40 and the 41 I'm delivering south from St John, NB at the moment both have 
grease fitting on the tube. These are packed with grease and you give them a 
turn every now and then to lube the tube. Mine hadn't been done for quite some 
time so it needed to be repacked twice before I was confident there was enough 
grease in there. That eliminated the squeak for me.




Andy

C&C 40

Peregrine

Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett

Newport, RI 

USA02840



http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260


On Jun 15, 2015, at 13:20, Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List  
wrote:





Jim,  I do have a cover at my emergency tiller stock, but it doesn't keep the 
water out. I have not experienced the squeak at the stock so can't offer advice 
there. Is it possible to use something a bit heavier than McLube, but lighter 
than standard grease. Triflow or similar?




Kevin 

30-2 Osprey



On Sun, Jun 14, 2015 at 3:21 PM Jim Reinardy via CnC-List 
 wrote:





Hello All,

 

I have a persistent squeak when I turn the wheel on my 30-2.  I have traced it 
to the emergency tiller bracket in the back of the cockpit.I can spray 
McLube in there and it will go away for a short time, but always comes back, 
especially after a rain.   Was there originally a cover on the bracket, BTW?

 

I don’t see a grease fitting like the lower part of the shaft has, or another 
way to get a better lubricant in there.  

 

Anyone had this issue before?  I am reluctant to remove the bracket for fear of 
causing larger issues with the steering system, so reassurance there would also 
be helpful.

 

Thanks,

 

Jim Reinardy

C&C 30-2 “Firewater”

Milwaukee, WI 
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Re: Stus-List Emergency Tiller Bracket Squeaking

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Jim,

If you have a delrin ring above deck it may be worn/the source of the
squeak.  I replaced the one on my 35/3 last year.You could try smoothing it
off with some 800 grit sandpaper.

Joel

On Mon, Jun 15, 2015 at 2:14 PM, Jim Reinardy via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>  OK thanks.  It made some difference for me at the time as well.  I was
> not even looking for a grease fitting back there until one of the other
> 30-2 owners on this list made me aware of it.
>
> Regards,
>
> Jim Reinardy
> C&C 30-2 “Firewater”
> Milwaukee, WI
>
> Sent from Windows Mail
>
> *From:* Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* ‎Monday‎, ‎June‎ ‎15‎, ‎2015 ‎1‎:‎08‎ ‎PM
>
> *To:* Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
> *Cc:* Andrew Burton 
>
> Yes, the lower tube. Not only got rid of the squeak for me ,  but freed up
> the steering so driving became a real pleasure.
>
> Andy
>
> Andrew Burton
> 61 W Narragansett
> Newport, RI
> USA02840
>
> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
> +401 965-5260
>
> On Jun 15, 2015, at 14:01, Jim Reinardy via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Hi Andy,
>
> Thanks for the reply.  Are you talking about the lower tube where the post
> goes into the glass tube and ultimately out the bottom, or the top of the
> tube where it meets the cockpit floor?.  I put quite a bit of grease in the
> lower fitting last year in a futile attempt to get rid of the squeak.  The
> only thing that seems to help is getting some lube on the emergency tiller
> bracket in my case.
>
> Jim
>
> Sent from Windows Mail
>
> *From:* Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* ‎Monday‎, ‎June‎ ‎15‎, ‎2015 ‎12‎:‎44‎ ‎PM
> *To:* Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
> *Cc:* Andrew Burton 
>
> My 40 and the 41 I'm delivering south from St John, NB at the moment both
> have grease fitting on the tube. These are packed with grease and you give
> them a turn every now and then to lube the tube. Mine hadn't been done for
> quite some time so it needed to be repacked twice before I was confident
> there was enough grease in there. That eliminated the squeak for me.
>
> Andy
> C&C 40
> Peregrine
>
> Andrew Burton
> 61 W Narragansett
> Newport, RI
> USA02840
>
> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
> +401 965-5260
>
> On Jun 15, 2015, at 13:20, Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Jim,  I do have a cover at my emergency tiller stock, but it doesn't keep
> the water out. I have not experienced the squeak at the stock so can't
> offer advice there. Is it possible to use something a bit heavier than
> McLube, but lighter than standard grease. Triflow or similar?
>
> Kevin
> 30-2 Osprey
>
> On Sun, Jun 14, 2015 at 3:21 PM Jim Reinardy via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Hello All,
>>
>>
>>
>> I have a persistent squeak when I turn the wheel on my 30-2.  I have
>> traced it to the emergency tiller bracket in the back of the cockpit.I
>> can spray McLube in there and it will go away for a short time, but always
>> comes back, especially after a rain.   Was there originally a cover on the
>> bracket, BTW?
>>
>>
>>
>> I don’t see a grease fitting like the lower part of the shaft has, or
>> another way to get a better lubricant in there.
>>
>>
>>
>> Anyone had this issue before?  I am reluctant to remove the bracket for
>> fear of causing larger issues with the steering system, so reassurance
>> there would also be helpful.
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>>
>>
>> Jim Reinardy
>>
>> C&C 30-2 “Firewater”
>>
>> Milwaukee, WI
>> ___
>>
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>> bottom of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>
>>  ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
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>
> ___
>
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> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
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>
>
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>
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> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Emergency Tiller Bracket Squeaking

[George Cone via CnC-List]

On my 40 I had the same problem, the steering became very “tight” or “hard”, I 
tied to add grease thru the fitting into the lower tube bad it was too far gone 
I guess, the yard at considerable expense had four guys pulling the rudder down 
after the quadrant and all had to be taken off, the rudder shaft polished and 
tube cleaned. Now it’s great but after 12 hours of Yard time. So get in there 
and locate your fitting and fill it before it becomes too late.

 

George

C&C 40

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Andrew 
Burton via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, June 15, 2015 2:08 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Andrew Burton
Subject: Re: Stus-List Emergency Tiller Bracket Squeaking

 

Yes, the lower tube. Not only got rid of the squeak for me ,  but freed up the 
steering so driving became a real pleasure.

 

Andy


Andrew Burton

61 W Narragansett

Newport, RI 

USA02840

 

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/

+401 965-5260


On Jun 15, 2015, at 14:01, Jim Reinardy via CnC-List  
wrote:

Hi Andy,

 

Thanks for the reply.  Are you talking about the lower tube where the post goes 
into the glass tube and ultimately out the bottom, or the top of the tube where 
it meets the cockpit floor?.  I put quite a bit of grease in the lower fitting 
last year in a futile attempt to get rid of the squeak.  The only thing that 
seems to help is getting some lube on the emergency tiller bracket in my case.

 

Jim

 

Sent from Windows Mail

 

From: Edd Schillay via CnC-List  
Sent: ‎Monday‎, ‎June‎ ‎15‎, ‎2015 ‎12‎:‎44‎ ‎PM
To: Edd Schillay via CnC-List  
Cc: Andrew Burton  

 

My 40 and the 41 I'm delivering south from St John, NB at the moment both have 
grease fitting on the tube. These are packed with grease and you give them a 
turn every now and then to lube the tube. Mine hadn't been done for quite some 
time so it needed to be repacked twice before I was confident there was enough 
grease in there. That eliminated the squeak for me.

 

Andy

C&C 40

Peregrine

Andrew Burton

61 W Narragansett

Newport, RI 

USA02840

 

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/

+401 965-5260


On Jun 15, 2015, at 13:20, Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List  
wrote:

Jim,  I do have a cover at my emergency tiller stock, but it doesn't keep the 
water out. I have not experienced the squeak at the stock so can't offer advice 
there. Is it possible to use something a bit heavier than McLube, but lighter 
than standard grease. Triflow or similar?

 

Kevin 

30-2 Osprey

 

On Sun, Jun 14, 2015 at 3:21 PM Jim Reinardy via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Hello All,

 

I have a persistent squeak when I turn the wheel on my 30-2.  I have traced it 
to the emergency tiller bracket in the back of the cockpit.I can spray 
McLube in there and it will go away for a short time, but always comes back, 
especially after a rain.   Was there originally a cover on the bracket, BTW?

 

I don’t see a grease fitting like the lower part of the shaft has, or another 
way to get a better lubricant in there.  

 

Anyone had this issue before?  I am reluctant to remove the bracket for fear of 
causing larger issues with the steering system, so reassurance there would also 
be helpful.

 

Thanks,

 

Jim Reinardy

C&C 30-2 “Firewater”

Milwaukee, WI 

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Re: Stus-List Emergency Tiller Bracket Squeaking

[Jim Reinardy via CnC-List]

Joel,


There is a ring there, yes.  Does it come out without disassembling the whole 
assembly?  Where did you find a new one?


Jim






Sent from Windows Mail





From: Edd Schillay via CnC-List
Sent: ‎Monday‎, ‎June‎ ‎15‎, ‎2015 ‎1‎:‎20‎ ‎PM
To: Edd Schillay via CnC-List
Cc: Joel Aronson





Jim,



If you have a delrin ring above deck it may be worn/the source of the squeak.  
I replaced the one on my 35/3 last year.You could try smoothing it off with 
some 800 grit sandpaper.




Joel



On Mon, Jun 15, 2015 at 2:14 PM, Jim Reinardy via CnC-List 
 wrote:




OK thanks.  It made some difference for me at the time as well.  I was not even 
looking for a grease fitting back there until one of the other 30-2 owners on 
this list made me aware of it.




Regards,




Jim Reinardy

C&C 30-2 “Firewater”

Milwaukee, WI 






Sent from Windows Mail





From: Edd Schillay via CnC-List
Sent: ‎Monday‎, ‎June‎ ‎15‎, ‎2015 ‎1‎:‎08‎ ‎PM


To: Edd Schillay via CnC-List
Cc: Andrew Burton







Yes, the lower tube. Not only got rid of the squeak for me ,  but freed up the 
steering so driving became a real pleasure.




Andy


Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett

Newport, RI 

USA02840



http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260


On Jun 15, 2015, at 14:01, Jim Reinardy via CnC-List  
wrote:





Hi Andy,




Thanks for the reply.  Are you talking about the lower tube where the post goes 
into the glass tube and ultimately out the bottom, or the top of the tube where 
it meets the cockpit floor?.  I put quite a bit of grease in the lower fitting 
last year in a futile attempt to get rid of the squeak.  The only thing that 
seems to help is getting some lube on the emergency tiller bracket in my case.




Jim






Sent from Windows Mail





From: Edd Schillay via CnC-List
Sent: ‎Monday‎, ‎June‎ ‎15‎, ‎2015 ‎12‎:‎44‎ ‎PM
To: Edd Schillay via CnC-List
Cc: Andrew Burton





My 40 and the 41 I'm delivering south from St John, NB at the moment both have 
grease fitting on the tube. These are packed with grease and you give them a 
turn every now and then to lube the tube. Mine hadn't been done for quite some 
time so it needed to be repacked twice before I was confident there was enough 
grease in there. That eliminated the squeak for me.




Andy

C&C 40

Peregrine

Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett

Newport, RI 

USA02840



http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260


On Jun 15, 2015, at 13:20, Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List  
wrote:





Jim,  I do have a cover at my emergency tiller stock, but it doesn't keep the 
water out. I have not experienced the squeak at the stock so can't offer advice 
there. Is it possible to use something a bit heavier than McLube, but lighter 
than standard grease. Triflow or similar?




Kevin 

30-2 Osprey



On Sun, Jun 14, 2015 at 3:21 PM Jim Reinardy via CnC-List 
 wrote:





Hello All,

 

I have a persistent squeak when I turn the wheel on my 30-2.  I have traced it 
to the emergency tiller bracket in the back of the cockpit.I can spray 
McLube in there and it will go away for a short time, but always comes back, 
especially after a rain.   Was there originally a cover on the bracket, BTW?

 

I don’t see a grease fitting like the lower part of the shaft has, or another 
way to get a better lubricant in there.  

 

Anyone had this issue before?  I am reluctant to remove the bracket for fear of 
causing larger issues with the steering system, so reassurance there would also 
be helpful.

 

Thanks,

 

Jim Reinardy

C&C 30-2 “Firewater”

Milwaukee, WI 
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-- 

Joel 
301 541 8551___

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Re: Stus-List Emergency Tiller Bracket Squeaking

[George Cone via CnC-List]

I needed to add that I removed the top bearing you describe, and it helped a 
little but only for short times and was not successful, it actually comes our 
quite easy, just nuts and bolts and slides out the top.

George

C&C 40

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Andrew 
Burton via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, June 15, 2015 2:08 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Andrew Burton
Subject: Re: Stus-List Emergency Tiller Bracket Squeaking

 

Yes, the lower tube. Not only got rid of the squeak for me ,  but freed up the 
steering so driving became a real pleasure.

 

Andy


Andrew Burton

61 W Narragansett

Newport, RI 

USA02840

 

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/

+401 965-5260


On Jun 15, 2015, at 14:01, Jim Reinardy via CnC-List  
wrote:

Hi Andy,

 

Thanks for the reply.  Are you talking about the lower tube where the post goes 
into the glass tube and ultimately out the bottom, or the top of the tube where 
it meets the cockpit floor?.  I put quite a bit of grease in the lower fitting 
last year in a futile attempt to get rid of the squeak.  The only thing that 
seems to help is getting some lube on the emergency tiller bracket in my case.

 

Jim

 

Sent from Windows Mail

 

From: Edd Schillay via CnC-List  
Sent: ‎Monday‎, ‎June‎ ‎15‎, ‎2015 ‎12‎:‎44‎ ‎PM
To: Edd Schillay via CnC-List  
Cc: Andrew Burton  

 

My 40 and the 41 I'm delivering south from St John, NB at the moment both have 
grease fitting on the tube. These are packed with grease and you give them a 
turn every now and then to lube the tube. Mine hadn't been done for quite some 
time so it needed to be repacked twice before I was confident there was enough 
grease in there. That eliminated the squeak for me.

 

Andy

C&C 40

Peregrine

Andrew Burton

61 W Narragansett

Newport, RI 

USA02840

 

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/

+401 965-5260


On Jun 15, 2015, at 13:20, Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List  
wrote:

Jim,  I do have a cover at my emergency tiller stock, but it doesn't keep the 
water out. I have not experienced the squeak at the stock so can't offer advice 
there. Is it possible to use something a bit heavier than McLube, but lighter 
than standard grease. Triflow or similar?

 

Kevin 

30-2 Osprey

 

On Sun, Jun 14, 2015 at 3:21 PM Jim Reinardy via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Hello All,

 

I have a persistent squeak when I turn the wheel on my 30-2.  I have traced it 
to the emergency tiller bracket in the back of the cockpit.I can spray 
McLube in there and it will go away for a short time, but always comes back, 
especially after a rain.   Was there originally a cover on the bracket, BTW?

 

I don’t see a grease fitting like the lower part of the shaft has, or another 
way to get a better lubricant in there.  

 

Anyone had this issue before?  I am reluctant to remove the bracket for fear of 
causing larger issues with the steering system, so reassurance there would also 
be helpful.

 

Thanks,

 

Jim Reinardy

C&C 30-2 “Firewater”

Milwaukee, WI 

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Stus-List Atkins Hoyle hatch replacement

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

For those who have replaced their forward A&H hatch with a Lewmar 60
series, did you use the low, medium or ocean profile hatch?  With or
without flange on the Ocean?

Defender has the medium on closeout.

-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Atkins Hoyle hatch replacement

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

On Perception, a 33-II with an angled front hatch almost to the deck at the 
front I used the Ocean series, no flange (if you mean the vertical piece that 
lines the opening). I leave the hatch slightly open so wanted the extra height 
in heavy rains when away from the boat. Fit the opening better than the Bomars 
I replaced( Not A&H – would have rebuilt them if I had them as I know the 
owner) .

Paul Fountain
Managing Director
SeaSource Inc.
Bookkeeping & IT Services.

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, June 15, 2015 3:05 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joel Aronson
Subject: Stus-List Atkins Hoyle hatch replacement

For those who have replaced their forward A&H hatch with a Lewmar 60 series, 
did you use the low, medium or ocean profile hatch?  With or without flange on 
the Ocean?

Defender has the medium on closeout.

--
Joel
301 541 8551
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Stus-List 34+ transom thru-hulls

[Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List]

I have seen that, which is the lawyer approved, blanket cover, we're in 
the business of selling you more new stuff statement. 

I did ask Rick about that he said:  It depends where the boat is used / 
how it's used / what conditions it sails or stays in. 

If in doubt, have it looked at by a qualified rigger (I did) 


Regards, 

-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take five"
Lake Lanier, GA


Message: 2
Date: Mon, 15 Jun 2015 12:22:13 -0400
From: Joel Aronson 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 34+ transom thru-hulls
Message-ID:
 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

FWIW, Navtec recommends re-heading every 10 years or 10,000 miles.

Joel
35/3
The Office
Regards



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Re: Stus-List Cored Hull

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

Hi Gary,
 Thanks for the encouragement.  I was familiar with the prop problem
and have been following the boat for a couple of years.

Fair winds,
Gary

~~~_/)~~


On Sun, Jun 14, 2015 at 9:28 PM, ahycrace--- via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Gary
> Ron solved the vibration problem with a new prop last year smooth
> as silk now. He also had the backstay area reinforced and the hull was
> addressed  as well, it should fly through a survey no problem. The boat is
> in better shape than Ron is !
>
>   Gary K. "Liberty"
>
>
>  Michael Cotton via CnC-List  wrote:
> > The "oil canning" was near the water line on the stbd side. What I
> remember of that boat Ron was always playing with the throttle to minimize
> engine vibrations. I did not have that problem on mine.
> > Good luck with your purchase.
> > Michael
> >
> > Sent from my iPhone
> >
> > > On Jun 14, 2015, at 7:56 AM, Gary Russell via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> > >
> > > Hi Mike,
> > >  Yes, that is the boat I am looking at, so we will pay special
> attention to those areas.
> > > Best regards,
> > > Gary
> > >
> > > ~~~_/)~~
> > >
> > >
> > >> On Sun, Jun 14, 2015 at 9:40 AM, Michael Cotton via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> > >> Hi Gary, Yes they are cored below the waterline. Additionally pay
> careful attention to the backstay chainplates. They are a known weak spot.
> One of mine failed. One more thing, remove one of the draw assemblies on
> the port side in the stateroom to inspect the tableing between the bulkhead
> and hull. It is only a couple of inches of tableing every couple of feet. I
> remember Ron Lacrix's having some "oil canning" where the forward bulkhead
> attached to the stbd side hull. I was a a part owner on a '90 C&C 37+ CB.
> I'll be frank. I would not buy the boat again. I think the hull is weak.
> > >> Michael Cotton
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> On Sunday, June 14, 2015 6:46 AM, Gary Russell via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> I am in the process of buying a 1990 C&C 37 Plus.  Is the hull cored
> below the waterline?  I know it's cored above the WL.
> > >>
> > >> Gary
> > >> S/V Expresso
> > >> '75 C&C 35 Mk II
> > >> East Greenwich, RI, USA
> > >> ~~~_/)~~
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> ___
> > >>
> > >> Email address:
> > >> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> > >> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> > >> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> ___
> > >>
> > >> Email address:
> > >> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> > >> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
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> > >
> > > ___
> > >
> > > Email address:
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> > > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
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> > >
>
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Stus-List depth finder follow-up

[McElwreath, Daniel via CnC-List]

Hi, the depth display is not readable on my 1980 cc 32. I asked listers and a 
number said, Listers said, what brand, what size, etc.  Anyway, it is a Brooks 
and Gatehouse  , squarish, measures 4 5/16 and 4 5/16.  I called the repair 
facility and he said (and he's right) it is the cockpit display of the unit 
down below at the nav table. Yes, that is working below..  But the service tech 
said it would take about 2 hours, and around $250 to repair.  Yikes.  !  Any 
suggestions?  Thanks in advance, Dan McElwreath  Tively II, City Island, NY
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Re: Stus-List Cored Hull

[Nauset Beach via CnC-List]

Gary R and / or Gary K

 

Was there any indication as to what about the prop that was causing the 
vibration?  Do you know what type of prop(s) the original and replacements 
were?   

 

I have had a fair amount of vibration after replacing the shaft, coupling and 
engine mounts, and the only culprit left is the prop itself.  

 

Thanks,

Brian

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary Russell 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, June 15, 2015 5:00 PM
To: C&C List
Cc: Gary Russell
Subject: Re: Stus-List Cored Hull

 

Hi Gary,

 Thanks for the encouragement.  I was familiar with the prop problem and 
have been following the boat for a couple of years.

 

Fair winds,

Gary




~~~_/)~~

 

On Sun, Jun 14, 2015 at 9:28 PM, ahycrace--- via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Gary
Ron solved the vibration problem with a new prop last year smooth as 
silk now. He also had the backstay area reinforced and the hull was  addressed  
as well, it should fly through a survey no problem. The boat is in better shape 
than Ron is !

  Gary K. "Liberty"

 

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Re: Stus-List Cored Hull

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

Hi Brian,
 I know the new prop is a Gori folding prop, but I don't know what the
problematic problem was.  Perhaps Gary Kolc can help.

Gary R.

~~~_/)~~


On Mon, Jun 15, 2015 at 5:41 PM, Nauset Beach via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Gary R and / or Gary K
>
>
>
> Was there any indication as to what about the prop that was causing the
> vibration?  Do you know what type of prop(s) the original and replacements
> were?
>
>
>
> I have had a fair amount of vibration after replacing the shaft, coupling
> and engine mounts, and the only culprit left is the prop itself.
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Brian
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Gary
> Russell via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Monday, June 15, 2015 5:00 PM
> *To:* C&C List
> *Cc:* Gary Russell
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Cored Hull
>
>
>
> Hi Gary,
>
>  Thanks for the encouragement.  I was familiar with the prop problem
> and have been following the boat for a couple of years.
>
>
>
> Fair winds,
>
> Gary
>
>
> ~~~_/)~~
>
>
>
> On Sun, Jun 14, 2015 at 9:28 PM, ahycrace--- via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Gary
> Ron solved the vibration problem with a new prop last year smooth
> as silk now. He also had the backstay area reinforced and the hull was
> addressed  as well, it should fly through a survey no problem. The boat is
> in better shape than Ron is !
>
>   Gary K. "Liberty"
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>
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Stus-List I need information on a LF38 for sale in Charleston, SC

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

A friend of mine is pretty impressed with a 1981 LF38 for sale at Ashley
Yachts in Charleston, SC and is close to making an offer on her. Jim is
interested in a strong and comfortable boat for retirement cruising on the
ICW starting this coming winter. He has sailed several times on my 38 mk2
and appreciates the build quality and performance, and the amenities in a
LF38 are attractive to his Admiral. He has already seen the boat, and has
asked me to go back with him to take a closer look at the mechanical systems
before finalizing an offer.

 

The name of the boat is "True Love". The listing on Yacht World is:
http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1981/C

&C-Landfall-2842472/Mt-Pleasant/SC/United-States#.VX9bgMtRH3g 

 

Does anyone know anything about this boat or its history. I'm a bit curious
about the new rudder. I also note that the tankage listed is different from
the original spec sheet on an LF38.

 

Do any of the LF owners on here see anything in the photographs on Yacht
World that require further investigation, or anything that strikes you as
especially desirable?

 

Finally, if this gets to the offer stage, Jim will need to have the boat
surveyed. Does anyone have a recommendation for a surveyor in the Charleston
area, especially one with C&C experience? A surveyor named David Hill was
recommended to my friend; does anyone have experience with him or knowledge
of his past performance?

 

Thanks for the help and advice.

 

Rick Brass

Imzadi  C&C 38 mk 2

la Belle Aurore C&C 25 mk1

Washington, NC

 

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Re: Stus-List I need information on a LF38 for sale in Charleston, SC

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

Seems like a good boat but Stainless steel holding tank is not a good idea.

Bob

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 15, 2015, at 7:25 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> A friend of mine is pretty impressed with a 1981 LF38 for sale at Ashley 
> Yachts in Charleston, SC and is close to making an offer on her. Jim is 
> interested in a strong and comfortable boat for retirement cruising on the 
> ICW starting this coming winter. He has sailed several times on my 38 mk2 and 
> appreciates the build quality and performance, and the amenities in a LF38 
> are attractive to his Admiral. He has already seen the boat, and has asked me 
> to go back with him to take a closer look at the mechanical systems before 
> finalizing an offer.
>  
> The name of the boat is “True Love”. The listing on Yacht World is:  
> http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1981/C&C-Landfall-2842472/Mt-Pleasant/SC/United-States#.VX9bgMtRH3g
>  
> Does anyone know anything about this boat or its history. I’m a bit curious 
> about the new rudder. I also note that the tankage listed is different from 
> the original spec sheet on an LF38.
>  
> Do any of the LF owners on here see anything in the photographs on Yacht 
> World that require further investigation, or anything that strikes you as 
> especially desirable?
>  
> Finally, if this gets to the offer stage, Jim will need to have the boat 
> surveyed. Does anyone have a recommendation for a surveyor in the Charleston 
> area, especially one with C&C experience? A surveyor named David Hill was 
> recommended to my friend; does anyone have experience with him or knowledge 
> of his past performance?
>  
> Thanks for the help and advice.
>  
> Rick Brass
> Imzadi  C&C 38 mk 2
> la Belle Aurore C&C 25 mk1
> Washington, NC
>  
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
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Stus-List Rudder 1980

[Louise Lemay via CnC-List]

t possible to use something a bit heavier than
>> McLube, but lighter than standard grease. Triflow or similar?
>> 
>> Kevin
>> 30-2 Osprey
>> 
>> On Sun, Jun 14, 2015 at 3:21 PM Jim Reinardy via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>> 
>>> Hello All,
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> I have a persistent squeak when I turn the wheel on my 30-2.  I have
>>> traced it to the emergency tiller bracket in the back of the cockpit.I
>>> can spray McLube in there and it will go away for a short time, but always
>>> comes back, especially after a rain.   Was there originally a cover on the
>>> bracket, BTW?
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> I don?t see a grease fitting like the lower part of the shaft has, or
>>> another way to get a better lubricant in there.
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Anyone had this issue before?  I am reluctant to remove the bracket for
>>> fear of causing larger issues with the steering system, so reassurance
>>> there would also be helpful.
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Thanks,
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Jim Reinardy
>>> 
>>> C&C 30-2 ?Firewater?
>>> 
>>> Milwaukee, WI
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> Email address:
>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>>> bottom of page at:
>>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>> 
>>> ___
>> 
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>> bottom of page at:
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>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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>> bottom of page at:
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>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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>> bottom of page at:
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> 
> 
> -- 
> Joel
> 301 541 8551
> -- next part --
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
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> <http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20150615/c29c42c2/attachment-0001.html>
> 
> --
> 
> Message: 2
> Date: Mon, 15 Jun 2015 14:22:10 -0400
> From: "George Cone" 
> To: 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Emergency Tiller Bracket Squeaking
> Message-ID: <002201d0a798$32400b70$96c02250$@alpinesy.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> On my 40 I had the same problem, the steering became very ?tight? or ?hard?, 
> I tied to add grease thru the fitting into the lower tube bad it was too far 
> gone I guess, the yard at considerable expense had four guys pulling the 
> rudder down after the quadrant and all had to be taken off, the rudder shaft 
> polished and tube cleaned. Now it?s great but after 12 hours of Yard time. So 
> get in there and locate your fitting and fill it before it becomes too late.
> 
> 
> 
> George
> 
> C&C 40
> 
> 
> 
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Andrew 
> Burton via CnC-List
> Sent: Monday, June 15, 2015 2:08 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Andrew Burton
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Emergency Tiller Bracket Squeaking
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, the lower tube. Not only got rid of the squeak for me ,  but freed up 
> the steering so driving became a real pleasure.
> 
> 
> 
> Andy
> 
> 
> Andrew Burton
> 
> 61 W Narragansett
> 
> Newport, RI 
> 
> USA02840
> 
> 
> 
> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
> 
> +401 965-5260
> 
> 
> On Jun 15, 2015, at 14:01, Jim Reinardy via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Hi Andy,
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the reply.  Are you talking about the lower tube where the post 
> goes into the glass tube and ultimately out the bottom, or the top of the 
> tube where it meets the cockpit floor?.  I put quite a bit of grease in the 
> lower fitting last year in a futile attempt to get rid of the squeak.  The 
> only thing that seems to help is getting some lube on t

Re: Stus-List 34+ transom thru-hulls

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

Stainless steel would be a much better choice than Marlon if you do decide to 
replace the exhaust through hull. And a proper exhaust through hull will have a 
flap built into it that will keep a following sea from entering the exhaust 
hose (and a loop at least 18” above the waterline between the muffler and the 
through hull to ensure that water does not get into the muffler and engine).

 

When I replaced the transom exhaust on Imzadi in 2010 (the OEM fitting was 1 ½” 
and pointed up at about 20-30 degrees, and sprayed a rooster tail out the back 
of the boat), I bought a 2” exhaust through hull on EBay for a bit over $50. 
Here is an example that is on EBay right now, though it is probably too large 
in diameter for your boat: 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sea-Dog-Corp-Exhaust-Thru-Hull-2-1-2-SS-521125-/141686562677?hash=item20fd2d5f75
 

 &vxp=mtr

 

 

Rick Brass

Imzadi  C&C 38 mk 2

la Belle Aurore C&C 25 mk1

Washington, NC

 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of davepulaski 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, June 15, 2015 11:26 AM
To: Jean-Francois J Rivard; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: davepulaski
Subject: Re: Stus-List 34+ transom thru-hulls

 

Thanks for all the info François!   Yes I've come to accept that those stern 
thru-hulls are in fact above DWL, regardless of what the painted waterline 
says.  I'm leaning towards not going to seacocks now, probably will at least 
replace the old thru-hull though with a new marelon one while I'm in there.  
Thanks for the tip on jacking up the fuel tank!

 

You're correct - the 2 small lines are for draining the propane tank 
compartment under the quadrant panel.  I like that the cockpit doesn't need 
scuppers!

 

While I have you - what are your thoughts on the rod rigging on these boats?  
AFAIK, she has all her original standing rigging.   Yes she's been only in 
fresh water so far, but the age still gives me pause.   Have you rerigged yet?

 

Dave

1990 34+ "Faith Anne"

 

Sent from my T-Mobile Galaxy Note 2


 Original message 
From: Jean-Francois J Rivard mailto:jfriv...@us.ibm.com> 
> 
Date: 06/15/2015 10:45 (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com   
Cc: davepula...@hotmail.com   
Subject: Stus-List 34+ transom thru-hulls 


Hi David, 

Congrats on getting the 34+. I've owned mine for 3 years and still think I 
could not have possibly gotten a better boat for what we do.  The promise is 
that is gives you plentiful room and comfort at the marina / anchor and runs 
like a bat out of he$$ around the cans..   It does just that.   

All your questions are really straightforward. 

Exhaust hose:  I replaced mine last year, it's not that bad. Your idea of 
connecting the old one to the new one is excellent.  I just wrestled my old one 
out and taped a fiberglass wiring rod to the new one to pull some / guide it.  
The trick is to remove all the aft stateroom cushions then remove the fuel tank 
access panel and the wooden blocks that are screwed / wedged-in securing the 
fuel tank and find a way to jack-up tank to facilitate threading the new hose 
in under it ( I used 2 x 2's) .  

The challenge to thread the new hose is to line it up between the exposed strut 
bolts.  Stick to the original hose construction / diameter and you'll be fine.  
It's a bit of a sweaty wrestling match but you and 1 other guy should be able 
to knock it out in less than 1 hour. 

"Through-Hulls"  

None of what you mentioned is below the waterline at rest. They get dipped-in 
some when motoring or sailing in excess of 5 or so knots but that's nothing 
that the standard siphon loops can't handle. The 34+ is the last of the 
Canadian C&C's and after 35 + odd years of designing racer cruisers they had it 
down.. Rob Ball knew what he was doing. 

FYI, all through hulls on mine are Marelon.  I close them all everytime I leave 
the boat and they works well, 

Also, there are no cockpit or deck scuppers on the boat.  All cockpit /deck 
water simply flows out the stern / swim platform area in a modern open stern / 
sport boat style.  On my boat there's a drain for the propane locker, also well 
designed.  No need to seal / mess with it as propane is heavier than air and 
flows down the drain like water with its exit above the waterline at rest  
There's no quadrant well.  On my boat The rudder shaft goes up to the quadrant 
that is mounted on top and flush with the cockpit sub-floor.  All that is 
easily accessible by simply removing the triangular fiberglass cover.  

Feel free to PM me for more details on how to tune the boat  / other questions 
of you want. 


-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA

 





Subject: Re: Stus-List 34+ transom thru-hulls
Message-ID: mailto:snt152-w7315fc52d9f459dde543fda0...@phx.gbl> >
Content-Type: text/plain; char

Re: Stus-List Rudder 1980

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

e.
>>> 
>>> Andy
>>> C&C 40
>>> Peregrine
>>> 
>>> Andrew Burton
>>> 61 W Narragansett
>>> Newport, RI
>>> USA02840
>>> 
>>> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
>>> +401 965-5260
>>> 
>>> On Jun 15, 2015, at 13:20, Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>> 
>>> Jim,  I do have a cover at my emergency tiller stock, but it doesn't keep
>>> the water out. I have not experienced the squeak at the stock so can't
>>> offer advice there. Is it possible to use something a bit heavier than
>>> McLube, but lighter than standard grease. Triflow or similar?
>>> 
>>> Kevin
>>> 30-2 Osprey
>>> 
>>> On Sun, Jun 14, 2015 at 3:21 PM Jim Reinardy via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>> 
>>>> Hello All,
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> I have a persistent squeak when I turn the wheel on my 30-2.  I have
>>>> traced it to the emergency tiller bracket in the back of the cockpit.I
>>>> can spray McLube in there and it will go away for a short time, but always
>>>> comes back, especially after a rain.   Was there originally a cover on the
>>>> bracket, BTW?
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> I don?t see a grease fitting like the lower part of the shaft has, or
>>>> another way to get a better lubricant in there.
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> Anyone had this issue before?  I am reluctant to remove the bracket for
>>>> fear of causing larger issues with the steering system, so reassurance
>>>> there would also be helpful.
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> Thanks,
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> Jim Reinardy
>>>> 
>>>> C&C 30-2 ?Firewater?
>>>> 
>>>> Milwaukee, WI
>>>> ___
>>>> 
>>>> Email address:
>>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>>>> bottom of page at:
>>>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>>> 
>>>> ___
>>> 
>>> Email address:
>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>>> bottom of page at:
>>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> Email address:
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>>> bottom of page at:
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>>> 
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> Email address:
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>>> bottom of page at:
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>> 
>> 
>> -- 
>> Joel
>> 301 541 8551
>> -- next part --
>> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
>> URL: 
>> <http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20150615/c29c42c2/attachment-0001.html>
>> 
>> --
>> 
>> Message: 2
>> Date: Mon, 15 Jun 2015 14:22:10 -0400
>> From: "George Cone" 
>> To: 
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Emergency Tiller Bracket Squeaking
>> Message-ID: <002201d0a798$32400b70$96c02250$@alpinesy.com>
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>> 
>> On my 40 I had the same problem, the steering became very ?tight? or ?hard?, 
>> I tied to add grease thru the fitting into the lower tube bad it was too far 
>> gone I guess, the yard at considerable expense had four guys pulling the 
>> rudder down after the quadrant and all had to be taken off, the rudder shaft 
>> polished and tube cleaned. Now it?s great but after 12 hours of Yard time. 
>> So get in there and locate your fitting and fill it before it becomes too 
>> late.
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> George
>> 
>> C&C 40
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-bou

Stus-List Cockpit drain/scupper screens

[Charles Nelson via CnC-List]

I am trying to find replacement screens for the cockpit drains on my 1995 
XL/kcb--built in the Canadian plant between 1993-1995.

It is plastic, 2 5/16" in diameter and white. It is not a Forespar model and my 
internet searches have not turned up anything identical.

Does anyone on the list know where C&C may have sourced these--screen and drain?

Thanks,

Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom


Sent from my iPad
___

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Re: Stus-List I need information on a LF38 for sale in Charleston, SC

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

Stainless steel is not resistant to the type of acids & salt you get in a 
holding tank--plastic is much better.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 15, 2015, at 8:07 PM, detroit...@aol.com wrote:
> 
> 
> why not agood idea?
> jim
> =20
> =20
> -Original Message-
> From: Robert Boyer 
> To: cnc-list 
> Cc: Rick Brass ; James Schwartz  m>
> Sent: Mon, Jun 15, 2015 7:30 pm
> Subject: Re: Stus-List I need information on a LF38 for sale in Charleston,=
> SC
> 
> 
> =20
> Seems like a

___

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Re: Stus-List I need information on a LF38 for sale in Charleston, SC

[Patrick Davin via CnC-List]

Looks like a good deal. Especially if that new engine install was well
done.

CNG stove is a downside vs LPG in my opinion. Not sure where they store
their CNG - the box that normally holds LPG tanks under the helm seat is
missing.

Listing says it's a 1981 but specs tab says 1979. Sometimes brokers just
mess up, but would be good to confirm which is which.

No windlass (unless they omitted it from specs) with a big anchor will make
for a good biceps workout. Nice Manson though.

Running rigging needs replacement probably, at least the genoa sheets. Boom
vang is an upgrade, that's nice. Teak toerails need reconditioning.

What is that in front of the stove? A 4' tall refrigerator? Gack.

I would definitely check it out! With close attention to how the engine
repowering was done.

-Patrick
C&C LF 38
Seattle, WA

On Mon, Jun 15, 2015 at 4:52 PM,  wrote:

> -- Forwarded message --
> From: Rick Brass 
> To: 
> Cc: James Schwartz 
> Date: Mon, 15 Jun 2015 19:25:52 -0400
> Subject: Stus-List I need information on a LF38 for sale in Charleston, SC
>
> A friend of mine is pretty impressed with a 1981 LF38 for sale at Ashley
> Yachts in Charleston, SC and is close to making an offer on her. Jim is
> interested in a strong and comfortable boat for retirement cruising on the
> ICW starting this coming winter. He has sailed several times on my 38 mk2
> and appreciates the build quality and performance, and the amenities in a
> LF38 are attractive to his Admiral. He has already seen the boat, and has
> asked me to go back with him to take a closer look at the mechanical
> systems before finalizing an offer.
>
>
>
> The name of the boat is “True Love”. The listing on Yacht World is:
> http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1981/C&C-Landfall-2842472/Mt-Pleasant/SC/United-States#.VX9bgMtRH3g
>
>
>
> Does anyone know anything about this boat or its history. I’m a bit
> curious about the new rudder. I also note that the tankage listed is
> different from the original spec sheet on an LF38.
>
>
>
> Do any of the LF owners on here see anything in the photographs on Yacht
> World that require further investigation, or anything that strikes you as
> especially desirable?
>
>
>
> Finally, if this gets to the offer stage, Jim will need to have the boat
> surveyed. Does anyone have a recommendation for a surveyor in the
> Charleston area, especially one with C&C experience? A surveyor named David
> Hill was recommended to my friend; does anyone have experience with him or
> knowledge of his past performance?
>
>
>
> Thanks for the help and advice.
>
>
>
> Rick Brass
>
> *Imzadi  *C&C 38 mk 2
>
> *la Belle Aurore *C&C 25 mk1
>
> Washington, NC
>
___

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Re: Stus-List depth finder display

[Joe Della Barba via CnC-List]

My 200 KHz transducer dates back to about 1980 or so and the depth finder
display is on its 4th or 5th version by now. Most depth finders are 200 KHz
and work with most transducers. I have a spare 200 KHz transducer sitting
around if you end up needing one.

 

Joe Della Barba

j...@dellabarba.com  

 

Coquina

C&C 35 MK I

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Hoyt,
Mike via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, June 15, 2015 8:41 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Hoyt, Mike
Subject: Re: Stus-List depth finder display

 

What make and model?

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
McElwreath, Daniel via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, June 14, 2015 5:08 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Cc: McElwreath, Daniel
Subject: Stus-List depth finder display

 

The readout on my cockpit depth display on 1980 cnc 32 is barely readable in
the daylight. I have been unable to find a source for simply replacing the
displau unit.  Can that be done? or do I have to buy a complete set, with
transducer, etc.  Thanks for any guidance. Dan Mc on Tively II at City
Island

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Re: Stus-List I need information on a LF38 for sale in Charleston, SC

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

> On Jun 15, 2015, at 6:25 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Do any of the LF owners on here see anything in the photographs on Yacht 
> World that require further investigation, or anything that strikes you as 
> especially desirable?

Hi, Rick!  A couple of things I noticed:

• In photo #2, it appears that the fixed side windows have been framed with 
something.  Better view in photo #10.

• In photo #3, to bow pulpit looks like it’s been bent quite a bit to port.  
Better check the mounting feet for leaks or glass issues.

• Photo #7: the steering pedestal has been replaced, and the engine controls 
switched over to the Edson dual-lever controls; a nice upgrade.

• Also photo #7: a new pedestal guard and pod for the chartplotter, to go with 
the new pedestal.  Also a nice upgrade.

• Photo #12: this boat has the starboard nav station with the “double” 
quarterberth to port; from the breaker panels, it looks like original 
electrical, so may need some work there.

• Photo #22: agreed on the mini-fridge — ack!

• Photo #25: interesting, my boat has teak ceilings on either side of the 
v-berth, as well as in the quarterberths.  What’s that weird cream-colored 
stuff in this boat?

From the specs:

• Agreed on the engine re-power — if done well, it’s a nice upgrade.

• Also agreed on the stainless holding tank — not a good idea.

• Where are they fitting in 135 gallons of water??  Mine came standard with a 
bow tank, as well as tanks under each of the saloon settees, for a total of 105 
gallons.  I’d have him recheck this number; it seems suspect.  The holding and 
fuel tanks seem a bit generous, too, considering that the holding tank is 
probably under the nav station seat.

• This does look a LOT more like a 1979 than a 1981.

That’s what I see for now.

— Fred


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI___

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Re: Stus-List Atkins Hoyle hatch replacement

[Jim Watts via CnC-List]

Ocean 60, no flange.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 15 June 2015 at 12:13, Paul Fountain via CnC-List 
wrote:

>  On Perception, a 33-II with an angled front hatch almost to the deck at
> the front I used the Ocean series, no flange (if you mean the vertical
> piece that lines the opening). I leave the hatch slightly open so wanted
> the extra height in heavy rains when away from the boat. Fit the opening
> better than the Bomars I replaced( Not A&H – would have rebuilt them if I
> had them as I know the owner) .
>
>
>
> *Paul Fountain*
>
> *Managing Director*
>
> *SeaSource Inc.*
>
> *Bookkeeping & IT Services.*
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Joel
> Aronson via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Monday, June 15, 2015 3:05 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Joel Aronson
> *Subject:* Stus-List Atkins Hoyle hatch replacement
>
>
>
> For those who have replaced their forward A&H hatch with a Lewmar 60
> series, did you use the low, medium or ocean profile hatch?  With or
> without flange on the Ocean?
>
>
>
> Defender has the medium on closeout.
>
>
>
> --
>
> Joel
> 301 541 8551
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>
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