FWIW, Navtec recommends re-heading every 10 years or 10,000 miles. Joel 35/3 The Office
On Mon, Jun 15, 2015 at 12:15 PM, Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Rod Rigging. Mine is also original and the boat has been freshwater for > all its life except for 4 years. I discussed the rig with one of the few > (And be most accounts: the best) factory certified Navtec guys in the > southeast (Rick Zern) and his advice was: Have your local guy take a look > at it (While it's down if possible) or you can look at it yourself. Here's > what you look for: No kinks, make sure the tangs (mast attachment ball / > socket joints) are not deformed, can rotate smoothly, and are free of > rust. Same with the eyes / toggles / turnbuckles: free of rust, smooth > turning. If that passes muster, don't worry about it. > > As you know, rod riggings are extremely stout and don't really stretch > much at all. If it has been abused, mistreated, or over-stressed in a > storm, the aluminum mast structure around the tang area will deform, same > for the threads on the turnbuckles: They will get distorted long before the > rods or heads get damaged. > > Rick told me that being a certfied Navtec rigger he decided to remove his > and have it lab tested. Keep in mind his boat (J-boat) had been raced hard > in salt water for 15-20+ years / his rod rigging was original. Results > after the dye and destructive tests done: Nothing wrong. In his words: It > was a waste of money and efforts. > > His words (Again) if you're about to embark on extended ocean crossing > passages then by all means spend the money to get work done as insurance. > For the rest of us lake and coastal cruisers: Keep sailing and taking > reasonable care of your rig. > > Regards, > > -Francois > 1990 34+ "Take Five" > Lake Lanier, GA > > > > > > From: davepulaski <davepula...@hotmail.com> > To: Jean-Francois J Rivard/Atlanta/IBM@IBMUS, cnc-list@cnc-list.com > Date: 06/15/2015 11:26 AM > Subject: RE: Stus-List 34+ transom thru-hulls > ------------------------------ > > > > Thanks for all the info François! Yes I've come to accept that those > stern thru-hulls are in fact above DWL, regardless of what the painted > waterline says. I'm leaning towards not going to seacocks now, probably > will at least replace the old thru-hull though with a new marelon one while > I'm in there. Thanks for the tip on jacking up the fuel tank! > > You're correct - the 2 small lines are for draining the propane tank > compartment under the quadrant panel. I like that the cockpit doesn't need > scuppers! > > While I have you - what are your thoughts on the rod rigging on these > boats? AFAIK, she has all her original standing rigging. Yes she's been > only in fresh water so far, but the age still gives me pause. Have you > rerigged yet? > > Dave > 1990 34+ "Faith Anne" > > Sent from my T-Mobile Galaxy Note 2 > > > -------- Original message -------- > From: Jean-Francois J Rivard <jfriv...@us.ibm.com> > Date: 06/15/2015 10:45 (GMT-05:00) > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com > Cc: davepula...@hotmail.com > Subject: Stus-List 34+ transom thru-hulls > > > Hi David, > > Congrats on getting the 34+. I've owned mine for 3 years and still think I > could not have possibly gotten a better boat for what we do. The promise > is that is gives you plentiful room and comfort at the marina / anchor and > runs like a bat out of he$$ around the cans.. It does just that. > > All your questions are really straightforward. > > Exhaust hose: I replaced mine last year, it's not that bad. Your idea of > connecting the old one to the new one is excellent. I just wrestled my old > one out and taped a fiberglass wiring rod to the new one to pull some / > guide it. The trick is to remove all the aft stateroom cushions then > remove the fuel tank access panel and the wooden blocks that are screwed / > wedged-in securing the fuel tank and find a way to jack-up tank to > facilitate threading the new hose in under it ( I used 2 x 2's) . > > The challenge to thread the new hose is to line it up between the exposed > strut bolts. Stick to the original hose construction / diameter and you'll > be fine. It's a bit of a sweaty wrestling match but you and 1 other guy > should be able to knock it out in less than 1 hour. > > "Through-Hulls" > > None of what you mentioned is below the waterline at rest. They get > dipped-in some when motoring or sailing in excess of 5 or so knots but > that's nothing that the standard siphon loops can't handle. The 34+ is the > last of the Canadian C&C's and after 35 + odd years of designing racer > cruisers they had it down.. Rob Ball knew what he was doing. > > FYI, all through hulls on mine are Marelon. I close them all everytime I > leave the boat and they works well, > > Also, there are no cockpit or deck scuppers on the boat. All cockpit > /deck water simply flows out the stern / swim platform area in a modern > open stern / sport boat style. On my boat there's a drain for the propane > locker, also well designed. No need to seal / mess with it as propane is > heavier than air and flows down the drain like water with its exit above > the waterline at rest There's no quadrant well. On my boat The rudder > shaft goes up to the quadrant that is mounted on top and flush with the > cockpit sub-floor. All that is easily accessible by simply removing the > triangular fiberglass cover. > > Feel free to PM me for more details on how to tune the boat / other > questions of you want. > > > -Francois Rivard > 1990 34+ "Take Five" > Lake Lanier, GA > > > > > > > > Subject: Re: Stus-List 34+ transom thru-hulls > Message-ID: <snt152-w7315fc52d9f459dde543fda0...@phx.gbl> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" > > I said "appear" to be below the waterline because the boat's not in the > water, isn't going in the water anytime soon, and I've never actually > seen one of these in the water :) All four thru-hulls are under the > transom counter and below the boot stripe as well as below the waterline > as defined by the existing bottom paint, so I have to assume they are > submerged with the boat floating level. Given their location in the > bowels of the stern lazarettes, I know accessing them is a pain but I'm > paranoid enough that I'd close them when I'm leaving the boat on her > mooring and not returning for a span of days at a time. On second > though, I'd have to leave the two small ones open because those are > scuppers, so no sense in valves on them at all. > > Here's a pic of the two port side thru hulls, big one is the exhaust. 2 > more on the stbd side in the same configuration. > > So I'm the proud new owner of a '90 34+, and the first project I bit off > was replacement of the exhaust hose from the muffer back, including the > thru-hull. > > First off, this is not going to be fun because the hose runs under the > fuel tank and span of the cockpit under the water heater where it is > completely inaccessible. I'm hoping I'll be able to pull the new hose > through by clamping it to the old hose with a double-ended barb, but it > seems like it's an awful tight fit under the tank. If anyone else has done > this job and has any suggestions, I'm all ears. > > Second, the thru-hulls themselves. There are 4 thru-hulls just under the > transom - the exhaust, the two drains for the propane tank & steering > quadrant well, and the bilge pump. All 4 are plastic mushroom-head > thru-hulls, and I want to replace at least the exhaust thru-hull with a new > marelon one. Question: none of these thru-hulls have seacocks on them, > which seems odd (and unwise) to me because they appear to be below the > waterline. What are your thoughts on putting a marelon ball valve on the > new thru hull while I'm at it? I'm tempted to replace all 4 of them with > new thru-hull and valves. Am I just being paranoid? > > Thanks all. I'm thrilled to have this boat and I'm sure I'll be pestering > the heck out of this board! > > -Dave > 1990 C&C 34+ "Faith Anne" > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Email address: > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the > bottom of page at: > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > > > -- Joel 301 541 8551
_______________________________________________ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
