Stus-List Cored Hull

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

I am in the process of buying a 1990 C&C 37 Plus.  Is the hull cored below
the waterline?  I know it's cored above the WL.

Gary
S/V Expresso
'75 C&C 35 Mk II
East Greenwich, RI, USA
~~~_/)~~
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Re: Stus-List Cored Hull

[Michael Cotton via CnC-List]

   
   - Hi Gary, Yes they are cored below the waterline. Additionally pay careful 
attention to the backstay chainplates. They are a known weak spot.  One of mine 
failed. One more thing, remove one of the draw assemblies on the port side in 
the stateroom to inspect the tableing between the bulkhead and hull. It is only 
a couple of inches of tableing every couple of feet. I remember Ron Lacrix's 
having some "oil canning" where the forward bulkhead attached to the stbd side 
hull. I was a a part owner on a '90 C&C 37+ CB. I'll be frank. I would not buy 
the boat again. I think the hull is weak.    

   - Michael Cotton
 


 On Sunday, June 14, 2015 6:46 AM, Gary Russell via CnC-List 
 wrote:
   

 I am in the process of buying a 1990 C&C 37 Plus.  Is the hull cored below the 
waterline?  I know it's cored above the WL.
GaryS/V Expresso'75 C&C 35 Mk IIEast Greenwich, RI, USA
~~~_/)~~


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Re: Stus-List Cored Hull

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

Hi Mike,
 Yes, that is the boat I am looking at, so we will pay special
attention to those areas.
Best regards,
Gary

~~~_/)~~


On Sun, Jun 14, 2015 at 9:40 AM, Michael Cotton via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
>- Hi Gary, Yes they are cored below the waterline. Additionally pay
>careful attention to the backstay chainplates. They are a known weak spot.
>One of mine failed. One more thing, remove one of the draw assemblies on
>the port side in the stateroom to inspect the tableing between the bulkhead
>and hull. It is only a couple of inches of tableing every couple of feet.
> I remember Ron Lacrix's having some "oil canning" where the forward
>bulkhead attached to the stbd side hull. I was a a part owner on a '90
>C&C 37+ CB. I'll be frank. I would not buy the boat again. I think the
>hull is weak.
>- Michael Cotton
>
>
>
>
>   On Sunday, June 14, 2015 6:46 AM, Gary Russell via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>
> I am in the process of buying a 1990 C&C 37 Plus.  Is the hull cored below
> the waterline?  I know it's cored above the WL.
>
> Gary
> S/V Expresso
> '75 C&C 35 Mk II
> East Greenwich, RI, USA
> ~~~_/)~~
>
>
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Stus-List KVH instruments

[William Walker via CnC-List]

Just completed install of new instruments and have working depth, speed, wind 
from kvh.  What wasn't working when removed was analog wind display.  Two 
working displays, one large mast display, depth and speed transducers, mast 
head wind transducer, control pad, kvh brain 4321, wire, kvh autocomp 1000 
fluxgate sensor.
If you are trying to keep your kvh running make me an offer off list.  Going to 
eBay soon. I would think some of components would work with other systems 
though I am no expert. 
Bill Walker
wwadjour...@gmail.com




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Stus-List 34+ transom thru-hulls

[David Pulaski via CnC-List]

So I'm the proud new owner of a '90 34+, and the first project I bit off was 
replacement of the exhaust hose from the muffer back, including the thru-hull.

First off, this is not going to be fun because the hose runs under the fuel 
tank and span of the cockpit under the water heater where it is completely 
inaccessible.  I'm hoping I'll be able to pull the new hose through by clamping 
it to the old hose with a double-ended barb, but it seems like it's an awful 
tight fit under the tank.  If anyone else has done this job and has any 
suggestions, I'm all ears.

Second, the thru-hulls themselves.  There are 4 thru-hulls just under the 
transom - the exhaust, the two drains for the propane tank & steering quadrant 
well, and the bilge pump.  All 4 are plastic mushroom-head thru-hulls, and I 
want to replace at least the exhaust thru-hull with a new marelon one.  
Question:  none of these thru-hulls have seacocks on them, which seems odd (and 
unwise) to me because they appear to be below the waterline.  What are your 
thoughts on putting a marelon ball valve on the new thru hull while I'm at it?  
I'm tempted to replace all 4 of them with new thru-hull and valves.  Am I just 
being paranoid?

Thanks all.  I'm thrilled to have this boat and I'm sure I'll be pestering the 
heck out of this board!

-Dave
 1990 C&C 34+ "Faith Anne"



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Re: Stus-List Cored Hull

[Michael Cotton via CnC-List]

The "oil canning" was near the water line on the stbd side. What I remember of 
that boat Ron was always playing with the throttle to minimize engine 
vibrations. I did not have that problem on mine.
Good luck with your purchase.
Michael 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 14, 2015, at 7:56 AM, Gary Russell via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hi Mike,
>  Yes, that is the boat I am looking at, so we will pay special attention 
> to those areas.
> Best regards,
> Gary
> 
> ~~~_/)~~
> 
> 
>> On Sun, Jun 14, 2015 at 9:40 AM, Michael Cotton via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> Hi Gary, Yes they are cored below the waterline. Additionally pay careful 
>> attention to the backstay chainplates. They are a known weak spot.  One of 
>> mine failed. One more thing, remove one of the draw assemblies on the port 
>> side in the stateroom to inspect the tableing between the bulkhead and hull. 
>> It is only a couple of inches of tableing every couple of feet. I remember 
>> Ron Lacrix's having some "oil canning" where the forward bulkhead attached 
>> to the stbd side hull. I was a a part owner on a '90 C&C 37+ CB. I'll be 
>> frank. I would not buy the boat again. I think the hull is weak. 
>> Michael Cotton
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> On Sunday, June 14, 2015 6:46 AM, Gary Russell via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> I am in the process of buying a 1990 C&C 37 Plus.  Is the hull cored below 
>> the waterline?  I know it's cored above the WL.
>> 
>> Gary
>> S/V Expresso
>> '75 C&C 35 Mk II
>> East Greenwich, RI, USA
>> ~~~_/)~~
>> 
>> 
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>> 
>> 
>> 
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Re: Stus-List 34+ transom thru-hulls

[Patrick Davin via CnC-List]

Regarding seacocks on transom thruhulls - what do you mean by "they appear
to be below the waterline"?  Either they are or they aren't, and it should
be pretty easy to determine this (are they submerged or not when the boat
is at the dock?). I'm not familiar with the 34+ but looking at some
pictures on Google Images it looks like the transom is similar to the LF38,
which would mean the exhaust thruhull and others are above waterline, but
can be submerged when you're pitching a lot in a wavy sea state.

The recommendation for seacocks is have them on every thruhull that is
below the heeled waterline. Whether you consider transom thruhulls that are
6-12" above waterline as being below the heeled waterline is probably
debateable. What I've heard is most people don't bother with them
(especially since access to them is usually a giant pain, so the seacock
would rarely be closed) - *unless* you plan to go offshore a bunch.
Although even offshore if a hose pulled off you could probably just stick a
wooden plug in (or potato or any of the other thruhull plugging devices).

So it's a matter of personal preference / your own paranoia level. I'm
pretty paranoid about below waterline thruhulls but for the transom ones
I've decided there are bigger risks to fry first.

-Patrick
C&C LF38
Seattle, WA

On Sun, Jun 14, 2015 at 9:00 AM,  wrote:
>
> From: David Pulaski 
> To: "CnC-List@cnc-list.com" 
> Cc:
> Date: Sun, 14 Jun 2015 11:16:14 -0400
> Subject: Stus-List 34+ transom thru-hulls
> So I'm the proud new owner of a '90 34+, and the first project I bit off
> was replacement of the exhaust hose from the muffer back, including the
> thru-hull.
>
> First off, this is not going to be fun because the hose runs under the
> fuel tank and span of the cockpit under the water heater where it is
> completely inaccessible.  I'm hoping I'll be able to pull the new hose
> through by clamping it to the old hose with a double-ended barb, but it
> seems like it's an awful tight fit under the tank.  If anyone else has done
> this job and has any suggestions, I'm all ears.
>
> Second, the thru-hulls themselves.  There are 4 thru-hulls just under the
> transom - the exhaust, the two drains for the propane tank & steering
> quadrant well, and the bilge pump.  All 4 are plastic mushroom-head
> thru-hulls, and I want to replace at least the exhaust thru-hull with a new
> marelon one.  Question:  none of these thru-hulls have seacocks on them,
> which seems odd (and unwise) to me because they appear to be below the
> waterline.  What are your thoughts on putting a marelon ball valve on the
> new thru hull while I'm at it?  I'm tempted to replace all 4 of them with
> new thru-hull and valves.  Am I just being paranoid?
>
> Thanks all.  I'm thrilled to have this boat and I'm sure I'll be pestering
> the heck out of this board!
>
> -Dave
>  1990 C&C 34+ "Faith Anne"
>
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Re: Stus-List 34+ transom thru-hulls

[David Pulaski via CnC-List]

I said "appear" to be below the waterline because the boat's not in the 
water, isn't going in the water anytime soon, and I've never actually 
seen one of these in the water :)  All four thru-hulls are under the 
transom counter and below the boot stripe as well as below the waterline
 as defined by the existing bottom paint, so I have to assume they are 
submerged with the boat floating level.  Given their location in the 
bowels of the stern lazarettes, I know accessing them is a pain but I'm 
paranoid enough that I'd close them when I'm leaving the boat on her 
mooring and not returning for a span of days at a time.  On second 
though, I'd have to leave the two small ones open because those are 
scuppers, so no sense in valves on them at all.

Here's a pic of the two port side thru hulls, big one is the exhaust.  2 more 
on the stbd side in the same configuration.

  

-Dave
 1990 C&C 34+ "Faith Anne"

From: jda...@gmail.com
Date: Sun, 14 Jun 2015 09:57:14 -0700
Subject: Re: 34+ transom thru-hulls
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com; davepula...@hotmail.com

Regarding seacocks on transom thruhulls - what do you mean by "they appear to 
be below the waterline"?  Either they are or they aren't, and it should be 
pretty easy to determine this (are they submerged or not when the boat is at 
the dock?). I'm not familiar with the 34+ but looking at some pictures on 
Google Images it looks like the transom is similar to the LF38, which would 
mean the exhaust thruhull and others are above waterline, but can be submerged 
when you're pitching a lot in a wavy sea state. 
The recommendation for seacocks is have them on every thruhull that is below 
the heeled waterline. Whether you consider transom thruhulls that are 6-12" 
above waterline as being below the heeled waterline is probably debateable. 
What I've heard is most people don't bother with them (especially since access 
to them is usually a giant pain, so the seacock would rarely be closed) - 
*unless* you plan to go offshore a bunch. Although even offshore if a hose 
pulled off you could probably just stick a wooden plug in (or potato or any of 
the other thruhull plugging devices). 
So it's a matter of personal preference / your own paranoia level. I'm pretty 
paranoid about below waterline thruhulls but for the transom ones I've decided 
there are bigger risks to fry first. 
-PatrickC&C LF38Seattle, WA
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Re: Stus-List 34+ transom thru-hulls

[Patrick Davin via CnC-List]

[Resending to list with your image removed since it exceeded msg size
limits]

Oh, yeah those look below waterline, I would want seacocks on them. I was
thinking your transom extended further back + up, but those are below the
bootstripe and close to the rudder.

You could also combine the two scuppers into one outlet and then plug or
remove a thruhull so you have one fewer. I assume those are deck scuppers
and not cockpit scuppers. That's how my deck scuppers are setup, and they
don't need rapid self bailing like the cockpit does.


On Sun, Jun 14, 2015 at 10:22 AM, David Pulaski 
wrote:

> I said "appear" to be below the waterline because the boat's not in the
> water, isn't going in the water anytime soon, and I've never actually seen
> one of these in the water :)  All four thru-hulls are under the transom
> counter and below the boot stripe as well as below the waterline as defined
> by the existing bottom paint, so I have to assume they are submerged with
> the boat floating level.  Given their location in the bowels of the stern
> lazarettes, I know accessing them is a pain but I'm paranoid enough that
> I'd close them when I'm leaving the boat on her mooring and not returning
> for a span of days at a time.  On second though, I'd have to leave the two
> small ones open because those are scuppers, so no sense in valves on them
> at all.
>
> Here's a pic of the two port side thru hulls, big one is the exhaust.  2
> more on the stbd side in the same configuration.
>
>
>
>
> -Dave
>  1990 C&C 34+ "Faith Anne"
>
>
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Re: Stus-List 34+ transom thru-hulls

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

Assuming your boat sits on the lines it was designed for, those through
hulls should be just above the waterline and I'd typical for the Rob Ball
designs of late 80s early 90s. It will only be a couple of inches above WL
but they were very smartly designed to remain so (at anchor) and they keep
the transom uncluttered and clean. I consider it a one of the more refined
design moves that separates earlier cncs from the Ball era, my 2 cents.
Sounds like PO could have raised boot and bottom paint, but hard to tell
w/o a picture.

The 34+ seems like a great boat and I hope to have one in the future...

On Sun, Jun 14, 2015, 10:45 AM Patrick Davin via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> [Resending to list with your image removed since it exceeded msg size
> limits]
>
> Oh, yeah those look below waterline, I would want seacocks on them. I was
> thinking your transom extended further back + up, but those are below the
> bootstripe and close to the rudder.
>
> You could also combine the two scuppers into one outlet and then plug or
> remove a thruhull so you have one fewer. I assume those are deck scuppers
> and not cockpit scuppers. That's how my deck scuppers are setup, and they
> don't need rapid self bailing like the cockpit does.
>
>
> On Sun, Jun 14, 2015 at 10:22 AM, David Pulaski 
> wrote:
>
>> I said "appear" to be below the waterline because the boat's not in the
>> water, isn't going in the water anytime soon, and I've never actually seen
>> one of these in the water :)  All four thru-hulls are under the transom
>> counter and below the boot stripe as well as below the waterline as defined
>> by the existing bottom paint, so I have to assume they are submerged with
>> the boat floating level.  Given their location in the bowels of the stern
>> lazarettes, I know accessing them is a pain but I'm paranoid enough that
>> I'd close them when I'm leaving the boat on her mooring and not returning
>> for a span of days at a time.  On second though, I'd have to leave the two
>> small ones open because those are scuppers, so no sense in valves on them
>> at all.
>>
>> Here's a pic of the two port side thru hulls, big one is the exhaust.  2
>> more on the stbd side in the same configuration.
>>
>>
>>
> -Dave
>>  1990 C&C 34+ "Faith Anne"
>>
>> ___
>
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Re: Stus-List 34+ transom thru-hulls

[John Pennie via CnC-List]

We had this issue on both our 34+ and 51.  Yes, the original design was without 
seacocks as they are just above the waterline and hide neatly under the transom 
skirt.  Heeled and under power is a different story and they will be under 
water.  it came up on a few surveys and rightfully so.  We never did add 
seacocks to either boat but it was always an area we kept an eye on.  Insurance 
carriers today may not be as forgiving.  

BTW - the 34+ is an incredible boat.  We raced ours on Wednesday nights, 
weekended on her and ultimately took her offshore to the caribbean.

Just my $.02

John

> On Jun 14, 2015, at 2:37 PM, Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Assuming your boat sits on the lines it was designed for, those through hulls 
> should be just above the waterline and I'd typical for the Rob Ball designs 
> of late 80s early 90s. It will only be a couple of inches above WL but they 
> were very smartly designed to remain so (at anchor) and they keep the transom 
> uncluttered and clean. I consider it a one of the more refined design moves 
> that separates earlier cncs from the Ball era, my 2 cents.  Sounds like PO 
> could have raised boot and bottom paint, but hard to tell w/o a picture.
> 
> The 34+ seems like a great boat and I hope to have one in the future...
> 
> On Sun, Jun 14, 2015, 10:45 AM Patrick Davin via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> [Resending to list with your image removed since it exceeded msg size limits]
> 
> Oh, yeah those look below waterline, I would want seacocks on them. I was 
> thinking your transom extended further back + up, but those are below the 
> bootstripe and close to the rudder. 
> 
> You could also combine the two scuppers into one outlet and then plug or 
> remove a thruhull so you have one fewer. I assume those are deck scuppers and 
> not cockpit scuppers. That's how my deck scuppers are setup, and they don't 
> need rapid self bailing like the cockpit does. 
> 
> 
> On Sun, Jun 14, 2015 at 10:22 AM, David Pulaski  > wrote:
> I said "appear" to be below the waterline because the boat's not in the 
> water, isn't going in the water anytime soon, and I've never actually seen 
> one of these in the water :)  All four thru-hulls are under the transom 
> counter and below the boot stripe as well as below the waterline as defined 
> by the existing bottom paint, so I have to assume they are submerged with the 
> boat floating level.  Given their location in the bowels of the stern 
> lazarettes, I know accessing them is a pain but I'm paranoid enough that I'd 
> close them when I'm leaving the boat on her mooring and not returning for a 
> span of days at a time.  On second though, I'd have to leave the two small 
> ones open because those are scuppers, so no sense in valves on them at all.
> 
> Here's a pic of the two port side thru hulls, big one is the exhaust.  2 more 
> on the stbd side in the same configuration.
> 
> 
> -Dave
>  1990 C&C 34+ "Faith Anne"
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
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> of page at:
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Re: Stus-List thru-hulls & R2AK

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Bear in mind that if you combine two scuppers 
into one then one of then will probably not drain 
when heeled. Of course this only matters if 
you're sailing and get water at your feet. :)


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

Anyone watching the R2AK? Too bad no C&C got into 
it... on the other hand, Francis (crew on MOB* Mentality) sails a C&C 115.

* = Mail Order Bride

At 10:45 AM 14/06/2015, you wrote:

[Resending to list with your image removed since it exceeded msg size limits]

Oh, yeah those look below waterline, I would 
want seacocks on them. I was thinking your 
transom extended further back + up, but those 
are below the bootstripe and close to the rudder.Â


You could also combine the two scuppers into one 
outlet and then plug or remove a thruhull so you 
have one fewer. I assume those are deck scuppers 
and not cockpit scuppers. That's how my deck 
scuppers are setup, and they don't need rapid 
self bailing like the cockpit does.Â
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Stus-List depth finder display

[McElwreath, Daniel via CnC-List]

The readout on my cockpit depth display on 1980 cnc 32 is barely readable in 
the daylight. I have been unable to find a source for simply replacing the 
displau unit.  Can that be done? or do I have to buy a complete set, with 
transducer, etc.  Thanks for any guidance. Dan Mc on Tively II at City Island
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Re: Stus-List *****SPAM***** depth finder display

[John Pennie via CnC-List]

You can buy just a depth unit but suspect the bigger challenge will be shape.  
Most 1980 vintage instruments were round.  Most of what is produced today is 
square.  Tons of cosmetic solutions but know you're in for a bit of a project.  
Also, the transducer will likely need to be changed.

Good luck!

John


Sent from my iPad

> On Jun 14, 2015, at 4:08 PM, McElwreath, Daniel via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> The readout on my cockpit depth display on 1980 cnc 32 is barely readable in 
> the daylight. I have been unable to find a source for simply replacing the 
> displau unit.  Can that be done? or do I have to buy a complete set, with 
> transducer, etc.  Thanks for any guidance. Dan Mc on Tively II at City Island
> ___
> 
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Re: Stus-List Following R2AK (was thru-hulls)

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

Following R2AK on-line continues to be great entertainment.  What a great sail 
- human powered adventure.  Sailing Anarchy and 48 North's coverage has been 
good, the tracker has been on my screen 5 + times a day since it started.



Calypso's co-owner and I were joking about adding 3 or 4 stationary bikes below 
for speed in light air.  I volunteered to stay on deck and drive.  Based on my 
last trip up the inside of Vancouver Island a boat like Calypso would do OK 
going up wind in Johnstone Strait but would suffer in the common light air 
conditions.  We would eat and sleep well.



If we won the $10K first prize it would just about cover the stationary bikes 
(used), the food, and the delivery costs back to Seattle.  It would not cover 
the physical therapy costs for a bunch of old guys working that hard to avoid 
using auxiliary power.



Martin

Calypso

1971 C&C 43

Seattle


From: CnC-List [cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] on behalf of Russ & Melody via 
CnC-List [cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
Sent: Sunday, June 14, 2015 11:59 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Russ & Melody
Subject: Re: Stus-List thru-hulls & R2AK


Bear in mind that if you combine two scuppers into one then one of then will 
probably not drain when heeled. Of course this only matters if you're sailing 
and get water at your feet. :)

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

Anyone watching the R2AK? Too bad no C&C got into it... on the other hand, 
Francis (crew on MOB* Mentality) sails a C&C 115.
* = Mail Order Bride

At 10:45 AM 14/06/2015, you wrote:
[Resending to list with your image removed since it exceeded msg size limits]

Oh, yeah those look below waterline, I would want seacocks on them. I was 
thinking your transom extended further back + up, but those are below the 
bootstripe and close to the rudder.Â

You could also combine the two scuppers into one outlet and then plug or remove 
a thruhull so you have one fewer. I assume those are deck scuppers and not 
cockpit scuppers. That's how my deck scuppers are setup, and they don't need 
rapid self bailing like the cockpit does.Â
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Re: Stus-List depth finder display

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

Hi Dan,

What make is the one you have now?  Is the display round?  What diameter?

We may be more help if we have that info.

Ken H.


On 14 June 2015 at 17:08, McElwreath, Daniel via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>  The readout on my cockpit depth display on 1980 cnc 32 is barely
> readable in the daylight. I have been unable to find a source for simply
> replacing the displau unit.  Can that be done? or do I have to buy a
> complete set, with transducer, etc.  Thanks for any guidance. Dan Mc on
> Tively II at City Island
>
> ___
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Stus-List Emergency Tiller Bracket Squeaking

[Jim Reinardy via CnC-List]

Hello All,

 

I have a persistent squeak when I turn the wheel on my 30-2.  I have traced
it to the emergency tiller bracket in the back of the cockpit.I can
spray McLube in there and it will go away for a short time, but always comes
back, especially after a rain.   Was there originally a cover on the
bracket, BTW?

 

I don't see a grease fitting like the lower part of the shaft has, or
another way to get a better lubricant in there.  

 

Anyone had this issue before?  I am reluctant to remove the bracket for fear
of causing larger issues with the steering system, so reassurance there
would also be helpful.

 

Thanks,

 

Jim Reinardy

C&C 30-2 "Firewater"

Milwaukee, WI 

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Re: Stus-List depth finder display

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Dan,

I have found all manner of parts on eBay.  It can be a bit of a crap shoot
but generally I have had really good luck.  For example I have multiple
replacement displays for my Datamarine Link Offshore series 3500.

Good luck,

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Jun 14, 2015 4:08 PM, "McElwreath, Daniel via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>  The readout on my cockpit depth display on 1980 cnc 32 is barely
> readable in the daylight. I have been unable to find a source for simply
> replacing the displau unit.  Can that be done? or do I have to buy a
> complete set, with transducer, etc.  Thanks for any guidance. Dan Mc on
> Tively II at City Island
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List depth finder display

[Indigo via CnC-List]

If it's a Datamarine unit, I believe there is a company called DMI that repairs 
replaces old Datamarine units. 

--
Jonathan
Indigo C&C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

> On Jun 14, 2015, at 16:08, McElwreath, Daniel via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> The readout on my cockpit depth display on 1980 cnc 32 is barely readable in 
> the daylight. I have been unable to find a source for simply replacing the 
> displau unit.  Can that be done? or do I have to buy a complete set, with 
> transducer, etc.  Thanks for any guidance. Dan Mc on Tively II at City Island
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
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> 
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Re: Stus-List depth finder display

[O'Keeffe Thomas via CnC-List]

 
DMImarine.com.  They service and sell parts and replacements for the old round 
style meters.  They rebuilt my masthead wind indicator this winter.   
Expensive, but a lot less than a new system.

Tom O'KeeffeBridiemae29-2 1984Douglaston NY
   

  On Sunday, June 14, 2015 6:33 PM, Indigo via CnC-List  
wrote:
   

 If it's a Datamarine unit, I believe there is a company called DMI that 
repairs replaces old Datamarine units. 

--JonathanIndigo C&C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT
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Re: Stus-List Cored Hull

[ahycrace--- via CnC-List]

Gary
Ron solved the vibration problem with a new prop last year smooth as 
silk now. He also had the backstay area reinforced and the hull was  addressed  
as well, it should fly through a survey no problem. The boat is in better shape 
than Ron is !

  Gary K. "Liberty"
 
   
 Michael Cotton via CnC-List  wrote: 
> The "oil canning" was near the water line on the stbd side. What I remember 
> of that boat Ron was always playing with the throttle to minimize engine 
> vibrations. I did not have that problem on mine.
> Good luck with your purchase.
> Michael 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> > On Jun 14, 2015, at 7:56 AM, Gary Russell via CnC-List 
> >  wrote:
> > 
> > Hi Mike,
> >  Yes, that is the boat I am looking at, so we will pay special 
> > attention to those areas.
> > Best regards,
> > Gary
> > 
> > ~~~_/)~~
> > 
> > 
> >> On Sun, Jun 14, 2015 at 9:40 AM, Michael Cotton via CnC-List 
> >>  wrote:
> >> Hi Gary, Yes they are cored below the waterline. Additionally pay careful 
> >> attention to the backstay chainplates. They are a known weak spot.  One of 
> >> mine failed. One more thing, remove one of the draw assemblies on the port 
> >> side in the stateroom to inspect the tableing between the bulkhead and 
> >> hull. It is only a couple of inches of tableing every couple of feet. I 
> >> remember Ron Lacrix's having some "oil canning" where the forward bulkhead 
> >> attached to the stbd side hull. I was a a part owner on a '90 C&C 37+ CB. 
> >> I'll be frank. I would not buy the boat again. I think the hull is weak. 
> >> Michael Cotton
> >> 
> >> 
> >> 
> >> On Sunday, June 14, 2015 6:46 AM, Gary Russell via CnC-List 
> >>  wrote:
> >> 
> >> 
> >> I am in the process of buying a 1990 C&C 37 Plus.  Is the hull cored below 
> >> the waterline?  I know it's cored above the WL.
> >> 
> >> Gary
> >> S/V Expresso
> >> '75 C&C 35 Mk II
> >> East Greenwich, RI, USA
> >> ~~~_/)~~
> >> 
> >> 
> >> ___
> >> 
> >> Email address:
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> >> 
> >> 
> >> 
> >> 
> >> ___
> >> 
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Stus-List Dumb question about the list

[Joseph Scott via CnC-List]

Hey guys

I know this is a dumb question but how do I reply to a message if I'm not a 
part of it?  When I hit reply all it looks like I'm replying to the whole thing 
not a specific topic. 

Thanks

Joe

Sent from my iPad
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Re: Stus-List 34+ transom thru-hulls

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

The thruhulls are above water at rest but must be under a few inches of water 
when sailing or when motoring at speed. I wouldn't be too concerned about the 
drains, but might add a shutoff valve to the engine exhaust? I don't have one, 
but I've seen it mentioned in most books for offshore safety. It protects the 
engine from getting seawater driven into the engine possible under very rare 
circumstances. 

The exhaust hose is meant to have a large loop high up inside the lazarette by 
design, so the engine has to build up exhaust pressure to lift the water up 
inside the muffler, and blow it out the hose. 


Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C&C 34R 
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md 

- Original Message -

From: "John Pennie via CnC-List"  
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: "John Pennie"  
Sent: Sunday, June 14, 2015 2:57:31 PM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 34+ transom thru-hulls 

We had this issue on both our 34+ and 51. Yes, the original design was without 
seacocks as they are just above the waterline and hide neatly under the transom 
skirt. Heeled and under power is a different story and they will be under 
water. it came up on a few surveys and rightfully so. We never did add seacocks 
to either boat but it was always an area we kept an eye on. Insurance carriers 
today may not be as forgiving. 

BTW - the 34+ is an incredible boat. We raced ours on Wednesday nights, 
weekended on her and ultimately took her offshore to the caribbean. 

Just my $.02 

John 




On Jun 14, 2015, at 2:37 PM, Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List < 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote: 



Assuming your boat sits on the lines it was designed for, those through hulls 
should be just above the waterline and I'd typical for the Rob Ball designs of 
late 80s early 90s. It will only be a couple of inches above WL but they were 
very smartly designed to remain so (at anchor) and they keep the transom 
uncluttered and clean. I consider it a one of the more refined design moves 
that separates earlier cncs from the Ball era, my 2 cents. Sounds like PO could 
have raised boot and bottom paint, but hard to tell w/o a picture. 

The 34+ seems like a great boat and I hope to have one in the future... 

On Sun, Jun 14, 2015, 10:45 AM Patrick Davin via CnC-List < 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote: 



[Resending to list with your image removed since it exceeded msg size limits] 

Oh, yeah those look below waterline, I would want seacocks on them. I was 
thinking your transom extended further back + up, but those are below the 
bootstripe and close to the rudder. 

You could also combine the two scuppers into one outlet and then plug or remove 
a thruhull so you have one fewer. I assume those are deck scuppers and not 
cockpit scuppers. That's how my deck scuppers are setup, and they don't need 
rapid self bailing like the cockpit does. 


On Sun, Jun 14, 2015 at 10:22 AM, David Pulaski < davepula...@hotmail.com > 
wrote: 



I said "appear" to be below the waterline because the boat's not in the water, 
isn't going in the water anytime soon, and I've never actually seen one of 
these in the water :) All four thru-hulls are under the transom counter and 
below the boot stripe as well as below the waterline as defined by the existing 
bottom paint, so I have to assume they are submerged with the boat floating 
level. Given their location in the bowels of the stern lazarettes, I know 
accessing them is a pain but I'm paranoid enough that I'd close them when I'm 
leaving the boat on her mooring and not returning for a span of days at a time. 
On second though, I'd have to leave the two small ones open because those are 
scuppers, so no sense in valves on them at all. 

Here's a pic of the two port side thru hulls, big one is the exhaust. 2 more on 
the stbd side in the same configuration. 







-Dave 
1990 C&C 34+ "Faith Anne" 




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Re: Stus-List Dumb question about the list

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

Most likely you are subscribed to a "digest", i.e. the compilation of all
messages of the day. In that case, "reply all" and _trim_ (TRIM!!) the
original message to contain only the topic you are replying to. And change
the subject (from the "daily digest" to "Stus-List your subject here").

Hope it helps

Marek


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joseph
Scott via CnC-List
Sent: June-14-15 21:32
To: CnClist
Cc: Joseph Scott
Subject: Stus-List Dumb question about the list

Hey guys

I know this is a dumb question but how do I reply to a message if I'm not a
part of it?  When I hit reply all it looks like I'm replying to the whole
thing not a specific topic. 

Thanks

Joe

Sent from my iPad
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Re: Stus-List Dumb question about the list

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Your email subject is the only thing differentiating your message topic
from any other.  Some email clients will sort by conversation and pull all
the emails with the same subject lines together to create a sort of
conversation stream.

Hope that helps,

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
 On Jun 14, 2015 9:31 PM, "Joseph Scott via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Hey guys
>
> I know this is a dumb question but how do I reply to a message if I'm not
> a part of it?  When I hit reply all it looks like I'm replying to the whole
> thing not a specific topic.
>
> Thanks
>
> Joe
>
> Sent from my iPad
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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> bottom of page at:
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>
>
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