Re: Stus-List A-4 zincs

[Burt Stratton via CnC-List]

Thank you, Rick. This is very helpful.

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick
Taillieu via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, May 22, 2015 3:34 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Rick Taillieu
Subject: Re: Stus-List A-4 zincs

 

Burt,

 

Check here for a PDF of the service manual and a parts list.

http://www.tartan34library.com/

 

 

Rick Taillieu

Nemesis

'75 C&C 25  #371

Shearwater Yacht Club

Halifax, NS.

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Burt
Stratton via CnC-List
Sent: May-22-15 11:12
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Burt Stratton
Subject: Stus-List A-4 zincs

 

I am new to the ownership of an Atomic 4. So far it has been a very pleasant
experience. I am reasonably sure it is original to the boat. It has a couple
upgrades like electric fuel pump and electronic ignition (no points). Ran
great through a short season last year. No issues of any kind. Just needed
to figure out how to stop the boat and back her down with a two blade
folding prop.. lots of patience.

 

I do need to find and replace all the zincs, though. It is a raw water
cooled motor and no water heater in the cooling loop. Is there a document
available that will identify where I might find zincs on this motor? Maybe
an owners manual or service manual on line? I have an owners manual on the
boat but it is pretty beat up.

 

Burt

1974 C&C 33-3 quarter tonner

On the hard in the back yard 

Walpole, MA

  _  

No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2015.0.5941 / Virus Database: 4347/9842 - Release Date: 05/22/15

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Teak oil suggestions?

[Burt Stratton via CnC-List]

Always kept mine blonde… No finish at all. Clean gently a couple times a year 
and sand smooth when necessary to remove any raised grain that could trap dirt. 
NEVER power wash. This is for exterior teak. 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jim Watts 
via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, May 23, 2015 12:47 PM
To: 1 CnC List
Cc: Jim Watts
Subject: Re: Stus-List Teak oil suggestions?

 

Cetol. 




Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

 

On 23 May 2015 at 09:39, davidrisch75 via CnC-List  
wrote:

Done with sanding and varnish. What say you?

 

 

David F. Risch. 

 

Please excuse brevity and possible typos...sent from my mobile device.  


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com



 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Darker Smoke, Harder to Start

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

All,

Did a bunch of tests this weekend and took one lister’s advice to burn off some 
carbon buildup. In the end, it appears my new Trojan T-1275 starting battery, 
despite what the numbers say, isn’t pushing out enough juice to get the 25 
year-old Universal cranking, even at a full charge (12.7 volts).

So, it looks like I should supplement my starting bank. I just have to find a 
spot on the boat to put it. 

Thanks to all. 

All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 













> On May 25, 2015, at 10:08 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Edd,
> It's normal for dark smoke (unburned fuel) to exhaust if it takes longer to 
> fire.  Do you have glow plugs on your Universal like on mine?  You may just 
> need more glow plug time?
> 
> Universal recommends, "Turn key on to energize electric fuel pump, shifter in 
> neutral, thottle 1/3rd, hold the glow plug button for 30 to 60 seconds, 
> depending on outside temperature.  Continue to hold glow plug button while 
> pressing start button to crank engine.  Release both when engine starts."
> 
> Simple to check glow plugs:  Before starting, with engine cold, open the 
> compartment so you can feel the engine, locate your glow plugs follow the 
> wire to each cylinder, feel the temperature of the engine cylinder heads.  
> Back in cockpit, turn on switch and hold the glow plug button for a minute 
> without pushing the start button.  Then go below and feel the cylinder heads 
> and you should feel a warm area near each glow plug.  If anyone is colder 
> than the others;  bad connection or bad plug.
> 
> 
> Chuck
> Resolute
> 1990 C&C 34R
> Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
> 
> From: "Edd Schillay via CnC-List" 
> To: "cnc-list Cnc-List" 
> Cc: "Edd Schillay" 
> Sent: Sunday, May 24, 2015 6:07:34 PM
> Subject: Stus-List Darker Smoke, Harder to Start
> 
> Listers,
> 
> I find I'm having a harder time getting the engine started and seeing a 
> little bit of darker smoke when it does turn over, as compared to last 
> season. 
> 
> Once running, everything seems fine -- temperature, water flow, revolutions, 
> etc. 
> 
> Any ideas or suggestions?
> 
> Usually, my solution to engine problems is "get the jib out."
> 
> 
> All the best,
> 
> Edd
> 
> ---
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> NCC-1701-B
> C&C 37+ | City Island, NY
> www.StarshipSailing.com 
> ---
> 914.332.4400  | Office
> 914.774.9767  | Mobile
> ---
> Sent via iPhone 6
> iPhone. iTypos. iApologize
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Antifreeze Mystery

[Burt Stratton via CnC-List]

I would replace my water pump shaft seals. Can't hurt and might fix the
problem.

Burt
1974 C&C 33 

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of John
Russo via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, May 24, 2015 2:34 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: John Russo
Subject: Re: Stus-List Antifreeze Mystery

Check to insure your engine block drain valves are tight before winter
storage. Second thought is weird but offered anyhow. Is antifreeze fresh?
Could there be a blockage somewhere where the antifreeze is diluted and
freezes which would expand and force the top stuff out somehow. I said it
was a weird thought! I will discuss it with the mechanic at the yard who is
pretty sharp and seen most things.

John
C&C 32
Arpeggio  

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of robert
via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, May 24, 2015 11:25 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: robert
Subject: Stus-List Antifreeze Mystery

After the engine is winterized in the Fall, I place a plastic pan under
it.not sure why but I do.  Every Spring, there is approximately a half a
cup or 250 ml of antifreeze in the pan.

I have looked everywhere for the source of this antifreeze but I can't find
out where it is coming from.  The boat was launched 3 weeks ago, the engine
has about 3 hours on it since then, the pan is still under the engine but
there is no antifreeze in it.  And the antifreeze does not appear during the
sailing season.

I notice every Spring the level of the antifreeze in the 'overflow
container' is down a bit and I refill to the 'FULL LEVEL' but that container
is not leaking.  It's a mystery!

Anybody experience this and/or have any ideas where this antifreeze could be
originating from?

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom
of page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom
of page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com



___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Stus-List bedding of windows

[robert via CnC-List]

Adam:

We installed new cabin windows about 6 years ago..it's not rocket 
science but it was labor intensive.  I am assuming your windows are 
flush with the side of the cabin top with no frames and/or screws or 
other fastenersthat the way they are on the 32's .  Our windows 
leaked and the only sure way to stop it was to replace them.


Some time back, I posted on this list, the step by step process we used 
however it is not on my new laptop ..I will check to see if it is 
still on my old laptop and send it to you.


Where is your boat now?

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2015-05-25 2:45 PM, Adam Hayden via CnC-List wrote:

Jim

Sorry about the reply on the last thread I could hardly follow the replys 
and I know better.   The ports are as you described sealed into a moulded  
recess on the cabin top.   I think actually from your description now I 
understand how they will come out.

I am doing a complete refit of the boat so I will add it to the list of 
projects.  Although the refit is mostly done.

Mike, we bought Silver Tassie last fall.  No comments please on her 
condition.  :)

Adam



Sent from my iPhone
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com




___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Darker Smoke, Harder to Start

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

What makes tou think you don't have enough juice? What are your syptoms?

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On May 26, 2015 9:51 AM, "Edd Schillay via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> All,
>
> Did a bunch of tests this weekend and took one lister’s advice to burn off
> some carbon buildup. In the end, it appears my new Trojan T-1275 starting
> battery, despite what the numbers say, isn’t pushing out enough juice to
> get the 25 year-old Universal cranking, even at a full charge (12.7 volts).
>
> So, it looks like I should supplement my starting bank. I just have to
> find a spot on the boat to put it.
>
> Thanks to all.
>
> All the best,
>
> Edd
>
>
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On May 25, 2015, at 10:08 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> Edd,
> It's normal for dark smoke (unburned fuel) to exhaust if it takes longer
> to fire.  Do you have glow plugs on your Universal like on mine?  You may
> just need more glow plug time?
>
> Universal recommends, "Turn key on to energize electric fuel pump, shifter
> in neutral, thottle 1/3rd, hold the glow plug button for 30 to 60 seconds,
> depending on outside temperature.  *Continue to hold* glow plug button
> while pressing start button to crank engine.  Release both when engine
> starts."
>
> Simple to check glow plugs:  Before starting, with engine cold, open the
> compartment so you can feel the engine, locate your glow plugs follow the
> wire to each cylinder, feel the temperature of the engine cylinder heads.
> Back in cockpit, turn on switch and hold the glow plug button for a minute
> without pushing the start button.  Then go below and feel the cylinder
> heads and you should feel a warm area near each glow plug.  If anyone is
> colder than the others;  bad connection or bad plug.
>
>
> Chuck
> Resolute
> 1990 C&C 34R
> Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
>
> --
> *From: *"Edd Schillay via CnC-List" 
> *To: *"cnc-list Cnc-List" 
> *Cc: *"Edd Schillay" 
> *Sent: *Sunday, May 24, 2015 6:07:34 PM
> *Subject: *Stus-List Darker Smoke, Harder to Start
>
> Listers,
>
> I find I'm having a harder time getting the engine started and seeing a
> little bit of darker smoke when it does turn over, as compared to last
> season.
>
> Once running, everything seems fine -- temperature, water flow,
> revolutions, etc.
>
> Any ideas or suggestions?
>
> Usually, my solution to engine problems is "get the jib out."
>
>
> All the best,
>
> Edd
>
> ---
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> NCC-1701-B
> C&C 37+ | City Island, NY
> www.StarshipSailing.com 
> ---
> 914.332.4400  | Office
> 914.774.9767  | Mobile
> ---
> Sent via iPhone 6
> iPhone. iTypos. iApologize
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Darker Smoke, Harder to Start

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

Josh,

When just the T-1275 is engaged, it’s a slow to no churning. When I combine 
with the House Bank, she’ll start up. 

I know the specs of the engine and the T-1275 say it should work, but the 
numbers are close and, perhaps if the engine was new or in perfect condition it 
would, but the amps just aren’t there to get it going.  

All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 






> On May 26, 2015, at 10:03 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> 
> What makes tou think you don't have enough juice? What are your syptoms?
> 
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List bedding of windows

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Adam

What model year is your 36?  If I recall correctly the earlier years had 
aluminum extruded frames and the later ones did not

Mike

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of robert via 
CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, May 26, 2015 11:06 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: robert; Adam Hayden
Subject: Stus-List bedding of windows

Adam:

We installed new cabin windows about 6 years ago..it's not rocket science 
but it was labor intensive.  I am assuming your windows are flush with the side 
of the cabin top with no frames and/or screws or other fastenersthat the 
way they are on the 32's .  Our windows leaked and the only sure way to stop it 
was to replace them.

Some time back, I posted on this list, the step by step process we used however 
it is not on my new laptop ..I will check to see if it is still on my old 
laptop and send it to you.

Where is your boat now?

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2015-05-25 2:45 PM, Adam Hayden via CnC-List wrote:
> Jim
>
> Sorry about the reply on the last thread I could hardly follow the replys 
> and I know better.   The ports are as you described sealed into a moulded  
> recess on the cabin top.   I think actually from your description now I 
> understand how they will come out.
>
> I am doing a complete refit of the boat so I will add it to the list of 
> projects.  Although the refit is mostly done.
>
> Mike, we bought Silver Tassie last fall.  No comments please on her 
> condition.  :)
>
> Adam
>
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Stus-List Antifreeze Mystery

[robert via CnC-List]

Burt:

If you are referring to the 'water pump' on the front of the engine, 
that is not where the antifreeze is originating from.it appears to 
be dripping from the back of the engine on the port side or to the right 
looking into the engine compartment from the companionway.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 -84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2015-05-26 10:59 AM, Burt Stratton via CnC-List wrote:

I would replace my water pump shaft seals. Can't hurt and might fix the
problem.

Burt
1974 C&C 33
   
-Original Message-

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of John
Russo via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, May 24, 2015 2:34 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: John Russo
Subject: Re: Stus-List Antifreeze Mystery

Check to insure your engine block drain valves are tight before winter
storage. Second thought is weird but offered anyhow. Is antifreeze fresh?
Could there be a blockage somewhere where the antifreeze is diluted and
freezes which would expand and force the top stuff out somehow. I said it
was a weird thought! I will discuss it with the mechanic at the yard who is
pretty sharp and seen most things.

John
C&C 32
Arpeggio

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of robert
via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, May 24, 2015 11:25 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: robert
Subject: Stus-List Antifreeze Mystery

After the engine is winterized in the Fall, I place a plastic pan under
it.not sure why but I do.  Every Spring, there is approximately a half a
cup or 250 ml of antifreeze in the pan.

I have looked everywhere for the source of this antifreeze but I can't find
out where it is coming from.  The boat was launched 3 weeks ago, the engine
has about 3 hours on it since then, the pan is still under the engine but
there is no antifreeze in it.  And the antifreeze does not appear during the
sailing season.

I notice every Spring the level of the antifreeze in the 'overflow
container' is down a bit and I refill to the 'FULL LEVEL' but that container
is not leaking.  It's a mystery!

Anybody experience this and/or have any ideas where this antifreeze could be
originating from?

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom
of page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom
of page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com



___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com




___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Stus-List Engine panel cover...

[David via CnC-List]

I have tried to engineer a cover for my engine panel that will provide better 
(any)  protection from the elements, cockpit filling etc..  No way.   Too many 
compound curves.

Anybody know of a translucent adhesive based plastic sheeting that could adhere 
to the panel (snugly) and give it some protection while allowing visual access 
to the instruments?   Sort of a tougher version of the sticky saran wrap we use 
at home.   

Thanks in advance.

David F. Risch
1981 40-2
(401) 419-4650 (cell)
  ___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Stus-List 27-5 pintles and gudgeons

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

My lower gudgeon on my 27-5 has become a little sloppy after only 30 
years. My two options are to either replace it, or drill it out slightly 
oversized and sleeve it. I would much prefer to replace it if I can find 
one. Any ideas? This is a transom hung rudder and the "pintle" is really 
a 1/2 inch diameter by about 3 1/2 inch clevis pin. The gudgeon is a 
square plate (roughl;y 3x3 inch) with upper and lower bosses with 1/2 
inch holes. The part on the rudder slips between the upper and lower, 
making what looks like an oversized door hinge. I have found what they 
used on the J-24, but it is two separate pieces for upper and lower, and 
of course the holes are completely different.


Bill Bina

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Engine panel cover...

[Fred Hazzard via CnC-List]

David:

I used some relatively stiff clear plastic that is used for windows in
dodgers. It has snaps to hold in place.  It is stiff enough that I only
have snaps across the top.  This make access to the panel easy.   While it
is not perfect, it certainly prevents rain and spray from direct hits on
the panel.  It has be working well for the 8 years I have had my boat.

Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C&C 44
Portland, Or

On Tue, May 26, 2015 at 7:32 AM, David via CnC-List 
wrote:

> I have tried to engineer a cover for my engine panel that will provide
> better (any)  protection from the elements, cockpit filling etc..  No
> way.   Too many compound curves.
>
> Anybody know of a translucent adhesive based plastic sheeting that could
> adhere to the panel (snugly) and give it some protection while allowing
> visual access to the instruments?   Sort of a tougher version of the sticky
> saran wrap we use at home.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> David F. Risch
> 1981 40-2
> (401) 419-4650 (cell)
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Engine panel cover...

[Andrew Burton via CnC-List]

This looks promising.
http://3mauto.com/products/paint-defender
or they make a clear plastic film for the same purpose.
I may try it on my new car.
Good luck in the Marion to Bermuda Race! I'll be watching your progress and
waiting to talk with you about what worked and what didn't on Corsair.

Andy
C&C 40
Peregrine

On Tue, May 26, 2015 at 10:32 AM, David via CnC-List 
wrote:

> I have tried to engineer a cover for my engine panel that will provide
> better (any)  protection from the elements, cockpit filling etc..  No
> way.   Too many compound curves.
>
> Anybody know of a translucent adhesive based plastic sheeting that could
> adhere to the panel (snugly) and give it some protection while allowing
> visual access to the instruments?   Sort of a tougher version of the sticky
> saran wrap we use at home.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> David F. Risch
> 1981 40-2
> (401) 419-4650 (cell)
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>


-- 
Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett Ave
Newport, RI
USA 02840
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
phone  +401 965 5260
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Engine panel cover...

[David via CnC-List]

Andy,

Thanks and that's good, but I fear spraying it on may goop up the warning 
buzzer and cause it to be somewhat silenced.

Thanks Andy.  Will let you know.  Much replacing of gear and less innovative 
stuff this year.  

 

David F. Risch
(401) 419-4650 (cell)


Date: Tue, 26 May 2015 10:48:14 -0400
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Engine panel cover...
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
CC: a.burton.sai...@gmail.com

This looks promising. 
http://3mauto.com/products/paint-defender
or they make a clear plastic film for the same purpose.
I may try it on my new car.
Good luck in the Marion to Bermuda Race! I'll be watching your progress and 
waiting to talk with you about what worked and what didn't on Corsair.

Andy
C&C 40
Peregrine

On Tue, May 26, 2015 at 10:32 AM, David via CnC-List  
wrote:



I have tried to engineer a cover for my engine panel that will provide better 
(any)  protection from the elements, cockpit filling etc..  No way.   Too many 
compound curves.

Anybody know of a translucent adhesive based plastic sheeting that could adhere 
to the panel (snugly) and give it some protection while allowing visual access 
to the instruments?   Sort of a tougher version of the sticky saran wrap we use 
at home.   

Thanks in advance.

David F. Risch
1981 40-2
(401) 419-4650 (cell)
  

___



Email address:

CnC-List@cnc-list.com

To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:

http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com






-- 
Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett Ave
Newport, RI
USA 02840
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
phone  +401 965 5260


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com  
  ___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Engine panel cover...

[Andrew Burton via CnC-List]

Then check out the film; its sometimes called a clear bra for cars and I
believe it's available in sheets.

andy

On Tue, May 26, 2015 at 11:00 AM, David via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Andy,
>
> Thanks and that's good, but I fear spraying it on may goop up the warning
> buzzer and cause it to be somewhat silenced.
>
> Thanks Andy.  Will let you know.  Much replacing of gear and less
> innovative stuff this year.
>
>
>
> David F. Risch
> (401) 419-4650 (cell)
>
>
> --
> Date: Tue, 26 May 2015 10:48:14 -0400
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Engine panel cover...
> From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> CC: a.burton.sai...@gmail.com
>
>
> This looks promising.
> http://3mauto.com/products/paint-defender
> or they make a clear plastic film for the same purpose.
> I may try it on my new car.
> Good luck in the Marion to Bermuda Race! I'll be watching your progress
> and waiting to talk with you about what worked and what didn't on Corsair.
>
> Andy
> C&C 40
> Peregrine
>
> On Tue, May 26, 2015 at 10:32 AM, David via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I have tried to engineer a cover for my engine panel that will provide
> better (any)  protection from the elements, cockpit filling etc..  No
> way.   Too many compound curves.
>
> Anybody know of a translucent adhesive based plastic sheeting that could
> adhere to the panel (snugly) and give it some protection while allowing
> visual access to the instruments?   Sort of a tougher version of the sticky
> saran wrap we use at home.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> David F. Risch
> 1981 40-2
> (401) 419-4650 (cell)
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
>
>
> --
> Andrew Burton
> 61 W Narragansett Ave
> Newport, RI
> USA 02840
> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
> phone  +401 965 5260
>
> ___ Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including
> unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>


-- 
Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett Ave
Newport, RI
USA 02840
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
phone  +401 965 5260
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Stus-List Mast Rake on C&C 30 MK1

[Joe at Zialater via CnC-List]

Howdy listers,

 

Last year I had my forestay replaced (for a new roller furler) and it ended
up being longer than the original by maybe about 4 or 5 inches .  I have
adjusted the forestay all the way down but I still need plenty of backstay
to keep it all tight.  So now my mast rake is about 15 inches at the boom.
I don't have a ton of weather helm but it's hard to be sure because I
replaced the old main at the same time that I redid the forestay and the new
sail is much more efficient.  The extra rake also lowers the boom so I need
to use topping lift to keep it off the dodger.

 

So...how many inches of rake do you have?  And what would you consider
optimal?  I will have to redo the forestay to fix this but it may be worth
it.

 

As always, I appreciate all the opinions and advice!

 

Cheers,

 

Joe Boyle

30 MK1 'ZIA'

Annapolis

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Darker Smoke, Harder to Start

[S Thomas via CnC-List]

Edd, 
From what you are saying, it sounds like either your T-1275 has failed 
for some reason, or you have a bad connection - possibly in the battery switch 
itself. If you don't have a way to test the battery, then substitute a known 
good battery in its place and see what happens. Absolutely any car battery, 
including the cheapest Walmart, will start your engine if the battery is fully 
charged and in new condition. There is no way that you need to consider 
paralleling starting batteries as a permanent solution to your starting 
problem. 

Steve Thomas
C&C27 MKIII
Port Stanley, ON 



- Original Message - 
  From: Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
  To: C&C List 
  Cc: Edd Schillay 
  Sent: Tuesday, May 26, 2015 10:08
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Darker Smoke, Harder to Start


  Josh,


  When just the T-1275 is engaged, it’s a slow to no churning. When I combine 
with the House Bank, she’ll start up. 


  I know the specs of the engine and the T-1275 say it should work, but the 
numbers are close and, perhaps if the engine was new or in perfect condition it 
would, but the amps just aren’t there to get it going.  


  All the best,


  Edd




  Edd M. Schillay
  Starship Enterprise
  C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
  City Island, NY 
  Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log









On May 26, 2015, at 10:03 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
 wrote:


What makes tou think you don't have enough juice? What are your syptoms?

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD



--


  ___

  Email address:
  CnC-List@cnc-list.com
  To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
of page at:
  http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Darker Smoke, Harder to Start

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

12.7 volts in not fully charged.  Should be 13.6.

Joel

On Tue, May 26, 2015 at 11:20 AM, S Thomas via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>  Edd,
> From what you are saying, it sounds like either your T-1275 has
> failed for some reason, or you have a bad connection - possibly in the
> battery switch itself. If you don't have a way to test the battery, then
> substitute a known good battery in its place and see what happens.
> Absolutely any car battery, including the cheapest Walmart, will start your
> engine if the battery is fully charged and in new condition. There is no
> way that you need to consider paralleling starting batteries as a permanent
> solution to your starting problem.
>
> Steve Thomas
> C&C27 MKIII
> Port Stanley, ON
>
>
>
> - Original Message -
>
> *From:* Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
> *To:* C&C List 
> *Cc:* Edd Schillay 
> *Sent:* Tuesday, May 26, 2015 10:08
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Darker Smoke, Harder to Start
>
> Josh,
>
> When just the T-1275 is engaged, it’s a slow to no churning. When I
> combine with the House Bank, she’ll start up.
>
> I know the specs of the engine and the T-1275 say it should work, but the
> numbers are close and, perhaps if the engine was new or in perfect
> condition it would, but the amps just aren’t there to get it going.
>
> All the best,
>
> Edd
>
>
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
>
>
>
>
>
>
>  On May 26, 2015, at 10:03 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>  What makes tou think you don't have enough juice? What are your syptoms?
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>  --
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Engine panel cover...

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

XPEL or Clear Bra (3M). Sheets available on Amazon or from any car detailing 
shop. Installation is easy (on the car hood or the lights); on your panel it 
might be interesting, because the curves are quite complicated, aren’t they? 
Best to apply in hot weather (30 C). The film stretches quite a bit, if needed. 
the best part is that if you follow instructions (wet (mist) the surface before 
installing), you can re-adjust the film; nothing is really final.

Marek

From: Andrew Burton via CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, May 26, 2015 11:03 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Andrew Burton 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Engine panel cover...

Then check out the film; its sometimes called a clear bra for cars and I 
believe it's available in sheets.


andy


On Tue, May 26, 2015 at 11:00 AM, David via CnC-List  
wrote:

  Andy,

  Thanks and that's good, but I fear spraying it on may goop up the warning 
buzzer and cause it to be somewhat silenced.

  Thanks Andy.  Will let you know.  Much replacing of gear and less innovative 
stuff this year.  

   

  David F. Risch
  (401) 419-4650 (cell)




--
  Date: Tue, 26 May 2015 10:48:14 -0400
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Engine panel cover...
  From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  CC: a.burton.sai...@gmail.com 



  This looks promising. 
  http://3mauto.com/products/paint-defender

  or they make a clear plastic film for the same purpose.

  I may try it on my new car.

  Good luck in the Marion to Bermuda Race! I'll be watching your progress and 
waiting to talk with you about what worked and what didn't on Corsair.


  Andy

  C&C 40

  Peregrine


  On Tue, May 26, 2015 at 10:32 AM, David via CnC-List  
wrote:

I have tried to engineer a cover for my engine panel that will provide 
better (any)  protection from the elements, cockpit filling etc..  No way.   
Too many compound curves.

Anybody know of a translucent adhesive based plastic sheeting that could 
adhere to the panel (snugly) and give it some protection while allowing visual 
access to the instruments?   Sort of a tougher version of the sticky saran wrap 
we use at home.   

Thanks in advance.

David F. Risch
1981 40-2
(401) 419-4650 (cell)


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the 
bottom of page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com






  -- 

  Andrew Burton
  61 W Narragansett Ave
  Newport, RI
  USA 02840
  http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
  phone  +401 965 5260

  ___ Email address: 
CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing 
-- go to the bottom of page at: 
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

  ___

  Email address:
  CnC-List@cnc-list.com
  To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
of page at:
  http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com






-- 

Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett Ave
Newport, RI
USA 02840
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
phone  +401 965 5260



___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Mast Rake on C&C 30 MK1

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

that does not sound good...can't imagine the mainsail working well with the
topping lift holding the boom off the dodger.  I believe that you will need
to shorten that forestay, you could try opening the forestay adjusting
turnbuckle all the way and measure how much that opening is (inches), then
shorten the forestay by about that measure...I would say 15 inches of rake
is a bit much with no tension on the backstay, actually I believe 12 inches
would be good enough IMHO...so with no tension on the backstay under your
current setup what is the rake, I am assumimg that is not how you got the
15 inch measure for rake, but if you did get 15 inches of rake with no
tension on the backstay and the boom still rides to low on it aft end then
you may need some adjustment done on your new sail

Dwight Veinot
C&C 35 MKII, *Alianna*
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
d.ve...@bellaliant.net


On Tue, May 26, 2015 at 12:17 PM, Joe at Zialater via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Howdy listers,
>
>
>
> Last year I had my forestay replaced (for a new roller furler) and it
> ended up being longer than the original by maybe about 4 or 5 inches .  I
> have adjusted the forestay all the way down but I still need plenty of
> backstay to keep it all tight.  So now my mast rake is about 15 inches at
> the boom.  I don’t have a ton of weather helm but it’s hard to be sure
> because I replaced the old main at the same time that I redid the forestay
> and the new sail is much more efficient.  The extra rake also lowers the
> boom so I need to use topping lift to keep it off the dodger.
>
>
>
> So…..how many inches of rake do you have?  And what would you consider
> optimal?  I will have to redo the forestay to fix this but it may be worth
> it.
>
>
>
> As always, I appreciate all the opinions and advice!
>
>
>
> Cheers,
>
>
>
> Joe Boyle
>
> 30 MK1 ‘ZIA’
>
> Annapolis
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Darker Smoke, Harder to Start

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

Steve,

That’s where I’m confused, to be honest — the spec sheet on the T-1275 is here: 
http://www.trojanbattery.com/pdf/datasheets/T1275_Trojan_Data_Sheets.pdf 
 

And, according to Josh, the engine can pull up to 175amps while starting. When 
I combine, there’s enough there. 

All my connections are sound — they’re all new. 

All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 













> On May 26, 2015, at 11:20 AM, S Thomas via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Edd, 
> From what you are saying, it sounds like either your T-1275 has 
> failed for some reason, or you have a bad connection - possibly in the 
> battery switch itself. If you don't have a way to test the battery, then 
> substitute a known good battery in its place and see what happens. Absolutely 
> any car battery, including the cheapest Walmart, will start your engine if 
> the battery is fully charged and in new condition. There is no way that you 
> need to consider paralleling starting batteries as a permanent solution to 
> your starting problem. 
>  
> Steve Thomas
> C&C27 MKIII
> Port Stanley, ON 
>  
>  

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Darker Smoke, Harder to Start

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

Joel,

I have the challenge that statement. When over 13 volts, the battery is in a 
charging state — power is being put into the battery from an alternator or 
external charging source.

See this chart: 
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-sjQa85Sqkts/UOiBZ_ESsXI/A1Y/kRSbJIGLZ7M/s403/12vbattery.png
 

 

All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 













> On May 26, 2015, at 11:28 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 12.7 volts in not fully charged.  Should be 13.6.
> 
> Joel
> 
> On Tue, May 26, 2015 at 11:20 AM, S Thomas via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> Edd,
> From what you are saying, it sounds like either your T-1275 has 
> failed for some reason, or you have a bad connection - possibly in the 
> battery switch itself. If you don't have a way to test the battery, then 
> substitute a known good battery in its place and see what happens. Absolutely 
> any car battery, including the cheapest Walmart, will start your engine if 
> the battery is fully charged and in new condition. There is no way that you 
> need to consider paralleling starting batteries as a permanent solution to 
> your starting problem.
>  
> Steve Thomas
> C&C27 MKIII
> Port Stanley, ON
>  
>  
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Darker Smoke, Harder to Start

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

12.7 is fully charged. 13.6 is a battery under charge.

Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
INDIGO LF38
Boatless!





On May 26, 2015, at 08:28, Joel Aronson via CnC-List  
wrote:

12.7 volts in not fully charged.  Should be 13.6.

Joel

On Tue, May 26, 2015 at 11:20 AM, S Thomas via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Edd,
From what you are saying, it sounds like either your T-1275 has failed 
for some reason, or you have a bad connection - possibly in the battery switch 
itself. If you don't have a way to test the battery, then substitute a known 
good battery in its place and see what happens. Absolutely any car battery, 
including the cheapest Walmart, will start your engine if the battery is fully 
charged and in new condition. There is no way that you need to consider 
paralleling starting batteries as a permanent solution to your starting problem.
 
Steve Thomas
C&C27 MKIII
Port Stanley, ON
 
 
 
- Original Message -
From: Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
To: C&C List 
Cc: Edd Schillay 
Sent: Tuesday, May 26, 2015 10:08
Subject: Re: Stus-List Darker Smoke, Harder to Start

Josh,

When just the T-1275 is engaged, it’s a slow to no churning. When I combine 
with the House Bank, she’ll start up. 

I know the specs of the engine and the T-1275 say it should work, but the 
numbers are close and, perhaps if the engine was new or in perfect condition it 
would, but the amps just aren’t there to get it going.  

All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 






> On May 26, 2015, at 10:03 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> 
> What makes tou think you don't have enough juice? What are your syptoms?
> 
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> 



___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 




___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 






-- 
Joel 
301 541 8551
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Darker Smoke, Harder to Start

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

Also: A trojan T1275 is a deep cycle battery, according their website, and may 
not be capable of delivering the full power required to start a recalcitrant 
engine.

Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
INDIGO LF38
Boatless!





On May 26, 2015, at 08:40, Edd Schillay via CnC-List  
wrote:

Joel,

I have the challenge that statement. When over 13 volts, the battery is in a 
charging state — power is being put into the battery from an alternator or 
external charging source.

See this chart: 
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-sjQa85Sqkts/UOiBZ_ESsXI/A1Y/kRSbJIGLZ7M/s403/12vbattery.png
 

 

All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 













> On May 26, 2015, at 11:28 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> 
> 12.7 volts in not fully charged.  Should be 13.6.
> 
> Joel
> 
> On Tue, May 26, 2015 at 11:20 AM, S Thomas via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> Edd,
> From what you are saying, it sounds like either your T-1275 has 
> failed for some reason, or you have a bad connection - possibly in the 
> battery switch itself. If you don't have a way to test the battery, then 
> substitute a known good battery in its place and see what happens. Absolutely 
> any car battery, including the cheapest Walmart, will start your engine if 
> the battery is fully charged and in new condition. There is no way that you 
> need to consider paralleling starting batteries as a permanent solution to 
> your starting problem.
>  
> Steve Thomas
> C&C27 MKIII
> Port Stanley, ON
>  
>  
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Darker Smoke, Harder to Start

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

I stand corrected!

Joel

On Tue, May 26, 2015 at 11:43 AM, Knowles Rich via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Also: A trojan T1275 is a deep cycle battery, according their website, and
> may not be capable of delivering the full power required to start a
> recalcitrant engine.
>
> Rich Knowles
> Nanaimo, BC
> INDIGO LF38
> Boatless!
>
>
>
>
>
> On May 26, 2015, at 08:40, Edd Schillay via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Joel,
>
> I have the challenge that statement. When over 13 volts, the battery is in
> a charging state — power is being put into the battery from an alternator
> or external charging source.
>
> See this chart:
> https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-sjQa85Sqkts/UOiBZ_ESsXI/A1Y/kRSbJIGLZ7M/s403/12vbattery.png
>
>
> All the best,
>
> Edd
>
>
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
>
>
> 
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On May 26, 2015, at 11:28 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> 12.7 volts in not fully charged.  Should be 13.6.
>
> Joel
>
> On Tue, May 26, 2015 at 11:20 AM, S Thomas via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>>  Edd,
>> From what you are saying, it sounds like either your T-1275 has
>> failed for some reason, or you have a bad connection - possibly in the
>> battery switch itself. If you don't have a way to test the battery, then
>> substitute a known good battery in its place and see what happens.
>> Absolutely any car battery, including the cheapest Walmart, will start your
>> engine if the battery is fully charged and in new condition. There is no
>> way that you need to consider paralleling starting batteries as a permanent
>> solution to your starting problem.
>>
>> Steve Thomas
>> C&C27 MKIII
>> Port Stanley, ON
>>
>>
>>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Stus-List Fw: Darker Smoke, Harder to Start

[S Thomas via CnC-List]

12.7 volts is fully charged if the battery is at rest, as in sitting 
disconnected from the charger overnight. 

See the chart at the end, as well as other useful stuff, on this web page from 
Trojan: 

http://www.trojanbattery.com/BatteryMaintenance/Testing.aspx

Steve.
  - Original Message - 
  From: Joel Aronson 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Cc: S Thomas 
  Sent: Tuesday, May 26, 2015 11:28
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Darker Smoke, Harder to Start


  12.7 volts in not fully charged.  Should be 13.6. 


  Joel


  On Tue, May 26, 2015 at 11:20 AM, S Thomas via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Edd, 
From what you are saying, it sounds like either your T-1275 has 
failed for some reason, or you have a bad connection - possibly in the battery 
switch itself. If you don't have a way to test the battery, then substitute a 
known good battery in its place and see what happens. Absolutely any car 
battery, including the cheapest Walmart, will start your engine if the battery 
is fully charged and in new condition. There is no way that you need to 
consider paralleling starting batteries as a permanent solution to your 
starting problem. 

Steve Thomas
C&C27 MKIII
Port Stanley, ON 



- Original Message - 
  From: Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
  To: C&C List 
  Cc: Edd Schillay 
  Sent: Tuesday, May 26, 2015 10:08
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Darker Smoke, Harder to Start


  Josh, 


  When just the T-1275 is engaged, it’s a slow to no churning. When I 
combine with the House Bank, she’ll start up.  


  I know the specs of the engine and the T-1275 say it should work, but the 
numbers are close and, perhaps if the engine was new or in perfect condition it 
would, but the amps just aren’t there to get it going.  


  All the best,


  Edd




  Edd M. Schillay
  Starship Enterprise
  C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
  City Island, NY 
  Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log









On May 26, 2015, at 10:03 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
 wrote:


What makes tou think you don't have enough juice? What are your syptoms?

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD



--


  ___

  Email address:
  CnC-List@cnc-list.com
  To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the 
bottom of page at:
  http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com




___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the 
bottom of page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com








  -- 

  Joel 
  301 541 8551___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Darker Smoke, Harder to Start

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

If everything is good, then this battery can crank that engine without 
breaking a sweat, even if the engine does not start easily and has to 
crank for a bit. New connections are not automatically good connections. 
Check resistance at every connection involved, and also measure voltage 
drop at the starter when being cranked. It is also possible for a 
battery to have one bad cell that will take a surface charge and make 
the battery look good until you put a load on it. Harbor Freight has 
load testers for not a lot of money. You could also take the battery to 
most places that sell batteries for a free load test.


Bill Bina

On 5/26/2015 11:34 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List wrote:

Steve,

That’s where I’m confused, to be honest — the spec sheet on the T-1275 
is here: 
http://www.trojanbattery.com/pdf/datasheets/T1275_Trojan_Data_Sheets.pdf


And, according to Josh, the engine can pull up to 175amps while 
starting. When I combine, there’s enough there.


All my connections are sound — they’re all new.

All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 











On May 26, 2015, at 11:20 AM, S Thomas via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Edd,
From what you are saying, it sounds like either your T-1275 
has failed for some reason, or you have a bad connection - possibly 
in the battery switch itself. If you don't have a way to test the 
battery, then substitute a known good battery in its place and see 
what happens. Absolutely any car battery, including the cheapest 
Walmart, will start your engine if the battery is fully charged 
and in new condition. There is no way that you need to consider 
paralleling starting batteries as a permanent solution to your 
starting problem.

Steve Thomas
C&C27 MKIII
Port Stanley, ON




___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com



___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Antifreeze Mystery

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Sounds like leaky impeller gasket.

-Original Message-
From: "robert via CnC-List" 
Sent: ‎2015-‎05-‎26 10:12 AM
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Cc: "robert" 
Subject: Stus-List Antifreeze Mystery

Burt:

If you are referring to the 'water pump' on the front of the engine, 
that is not where the antifreeze is originating from.it appears to 
be dripping from the back of the engine on the port side or to the right 
looking into the engine compartment from the companionway.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 -84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2015-05-26 10:59 AM, Burt Stratton via CnC-List wrote:
> I would replace my water pump shaft seals. Can't hurt and might fix the
> problem.
>
> Burt
> 1974 C&C 33
>
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of John
> Russo via CnC-List
> Sent: Sunday, May 24, 2015 2:34 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: John Russo
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Antifreeze Mystery
>
> Check to insure your engine block drain valves are tight before winter
> storage. Second thought is weird but offered anyhow. Is antifreeze fresh?
> Could there be a blockage somewhere where the antifreeze is diluted and
> freezes which would expand and force the top stuff out somehow. I said it
> was a weird thought! I will discuss it with the mechanic at the yard who is
> pretty sharp and seen most things.
>
> John
> C&C 32
> Arpeggio
>
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of robert
> via CnC-List
> Sent: Sunday, May 24, 2015 11:25 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: robert
> Subject: Stus-List Antifreeze Mystery
>
> After the engine is winterized in the Fall, I place a plastic pan under
> it.not sure why but I do.  Every Spring, there is approximately a half a
> cup or 250 ml of antifreeze in the pan.
>
> I have looked everywhere for the source of this antifreeze but I can't find
> out where it is coming from.  The boat was launched 3 weeks ago, the engine
> has about 3 hours on it since then, the pan is still under the engine but
> there is no antifreeze in it.  And the antifreeze does not appear during the
> sailing season.
>
> I notice every Spring the level of the antifreeze in the 'overflow
> container' is down a bit and I refill to the 'FULL LEVEL' but that container
> is not leaking.  It's a mystery!
>
> Anybody experience this and/or have any ideas where this antifreeze could be
> originating from?
>
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C&C 32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S.
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 112, Issue 80

[James Montague via CnC-List]

Yanmar  TYPE B Control panel.

The engine stop push pull that was attached to the Yanmar panel  had its
last pull recently.  The panel became too brittle to withstand the leverage
and hey presto.  Has anyone experienced the same?  We are looking to find a
replacement panel or a new panel and relocate the engine stop lever
elsewhere, perhaps the pedestal.

Appreciate any help/insight on this

James
C&C 34  1982

On Tue, May 26, 2015 at 12:00 PM,  wrote:

> Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
> cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
>
> You can reach the person managing the list at
> cnc-list-ow...@cnc-list.com
>
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."
>
>
> Today's Topics:
>
>1. Re:  Darker Smoke, Harder to Start (Bill Bina - gmail)
>
>
> --
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Tue, 26 May 2015 11:50:09 -0400
> From: Bill Bina - gmail 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Darker Smoke, Harder to Start
> Message-ID: <55649631.9090...@gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252"; Format="flowed"
>
> If everything is good, then this battery can crank that engine without
> breaking a sweat, even if the engine does not start easily and has to
> crank for a bit. New connections are not automatically good connections.
> Check resistance at every connection involved, and also measure voltage
> drop at the starter when being cranked. It is also possible for a
> battery to have one bad cell that will take a surface charge and make
> the battery look good until you put a load on it. Harbor Freight has
> load testers for not a lot of money. You could also take the battery to
> most places that sell batteries for a free load test.
>
> Bill Bina
>
> On 5/26/2015 11:34 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List wrote:
> > Steve,
> >
> > That?s where I?m confused, to be honest ? the spec sheet on the T-1275
> > is here:
> > http://www.trojanbattery.com/pdf/datasheets/T1275_Trojan_Data_Sheets.pdf
> >
> > And, according to Josh, the engine can pull up to 175amps while
> > starting. When I combine, there?s enough there.
> >
> > All my connections are sound ? they?re all new.
> >
> > All the best,
> >
> > Edd
> >
> >
> > Edd M. Schillay
> > Starship Enterprise
> > C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> > City Island, NY
> > Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log <http://enterpriseb.blogspot.com/>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >> On May 26, 2015, at 11:20 AM, S Thomas via CnC-List
> >> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> >>
> >> Edd,
> >> From what you are saying, it sounds like either your T-1275
> >> has failed for some reason, or you have a bad connection - possibly
> >> in the battery switch itself. If you don't have a way to test the
> >> battery, then substitute a known good battery in its place and see
> >> what happens. Absolutely any car battery, including the cheapest
> >> Walmart, will start your engine if the battery is fully charged
> >> and in new condition. There is no way that you need to consider
> >> paralleling starting batteries as a permanent solution to your
> >> starting problem.
> >> Steve Thomas
> >> C&C27 MKIII
> >> Port Stanley, ON
> >
> >
> >
> > ___
> >
> > Email address:
> > CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> >
>
> -- next part --
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: <
> http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20150526/7429f9c7/attachment-0001.html
> >
>
> --
>
> Subject: Digest Footer
>
> ___
> CnC-List mailing list
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
> --
>
> End of CnC-List Digest, Vol 112, Issue 80
> *
>
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Engine control panel

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Tom Vincent posted this a few months back.

Steven Leach is the General Manager of DMP Automation , Inc., I met him at
the Atlantic Boat Show this year and was very impressed with the things his
company can do regarding instrument gauges and dash panels. I spoke to
Steven about replacing my entire panel with all new gauges. the company can
laser cut any size and shape that you want and install any type of gauge,
starter button, idiot light, etc. that you would like. The company website
is www.dmpautomation.com and Steven can be reached at
st...@dmpautomation.com.

Dennis C.

On Tue, May 26, 2015 at 9:19 AM, James Montague via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Yanmar  TYPE B Control panel.
>
> The engine stop push pull that was attached to the Yanmar panel  had its
> last pull recently.  The panel became too brittle to withstand the leverage
> and hey presto.  Has anyone experienced the same?  We are looking to find a
> replacement panel or a new panel and relocate the engine stop lever
> elsewhere, perhaps the pedestal.
>
> Appreciate any help/insight on this
>
> James
> C&C 34  1982
>
>
>
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Darker Smoke, Harder to Start

[svpegasus38]

Edd,It looks like you have a deep cycle battery. For engine starting you 
want a starting battery. They are measured in CCA cold cranking amps. The 
plates are thinner to allow a higher amp draw. 
Doug MountjoysvPegasusLF38 just west of Ballard, WA.


-- Original message--From: Edd Schillay via CnC-List Date: Tue, May 26, 
2015 08:35To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com;Cc: Edd Schillay;Subject:Re: Stus-List 
Darker Smoke, Harder to StartSteve,
That’s where I’m confused, to be honest — the spec sheet on the T-1275 is here: 
http://www.trojanbattery.com/pdf/datasheets/T1275_Trojan_Data_Sheets.pdf 
And, according to Josh, the engine can pull up to 175amps while starting. When 
I combine, there’s enough there. 
All my connections are sound — they’re all new. 

All the best,
Edd

Edd M. SchillayStarship EnterpriseC&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-BCity Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log










On May 26, 2015, at 11:20 AM, S Thomas via CnC-List  
wrote:
Edd, From what you are saying, it sounds like either your T-1275 has 
failed for some reason, or you have a bad connection - possibly in the battery 
switch itself. If you don't have a way to test the battery, then substitute a 
known good battery in its place and see what happens. Absolutely any car 
battery, including the cheapest Walmart, will start your engine if the battery 
is fully charged and in new condition. There is no way that you need to 
consider paralleling starting batteries as a permanent solution to your 
starting problem.  Steve ThomasC&C27 MKIIIPort Stanley, ON   
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 112, Issue 80

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

James -- I may have a replacement panel for you.  Let me check tonight.

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI



> On May 26, 2015, at 11:19 AM, James Montague via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Yanmar  TYPE B Control panel.
> 
> The engine stop push pull that was attached to the Yanmar panel  had its last 
> pull recently.  The panel became too brittle to withstand the leverage and 
> hey presto.  Has anyone experienced the same?  We are looking to find a 
> replacement panel or a new panel and relocate the engine stop lever 
> elsewhere, perhaps the pedestal.
> 
> Appreciate any help/insight on this
> 
> James
> C&C 34  1982
> 
>> On Tue, May 26, 2015 at 12:00 PM,  wrote:
>> Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> 
>> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
>> cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
>> 
>> You can reach the person managing the list at
>> cnc-list-ow...@cnc-list.com
>> 
>> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
>> than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."
>> 
>> 
>> Today's Topics:
>> 
>>1. Re:  Darker Smoke, Harder to Start (Bill Bina - gmail)
>> 
>> 
>> --
>> 
>> Message: 1
>> Date: Tue, 26 May 2015 11:50:09 -0400
>> From: Bill Bina - gmail 
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Darker Smoke, Harder to Start
>> Message-ID: <55649631.9090...@gmail.com>
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252"; Format="flowed"
>> 
>> If everything is good, then this battery can crank that engine without
>> breaking a sweat, even if the engine does not start easily and has to
>> crank for a bit. New connections are not automatically good connections.
>> Check resistance at every connection involved, and also measure voltage
>> drop at the starter when being cranked. It is also possible for a
>> battery to have one bad cell that will take a surface charge and make
>> the battery look good until you put a load on it. Harbor Freight has
>> load testers for not a lot of money. You could also take the battery to
>> most places that sell batteries for a free load test.
>> 
>> Bill Bina
>> 
>> On 5/26/2015 11:34 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List wrote:
>> > Steve,
>> >
>> > That?s where I?m confused, to be honest ? the spec sheet on the T-1275
>> > is here:
>> > http://www.trojanbattery.com/pdf/datasheets/T1275_Trojan_Data_Sheets.pdf
>> >
>> > And, according to Josh, the engine can pull up to 175amps while
>> > starting. When I combine, there?s enough there.
>> >
>> > All my connections are sound ? they?re all new.
>> >
>> > All the best,
>> >
>> > Edd
>> >
>> >
>> > Edd M. Schillay
>> > Starship Enterprise
>> > C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
>> > City Island, NY
>> > Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log <http://enterpriseb.blogspot.com/>
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >> On May 26, 2015, at 11:20 AM, S Thomas via CnC-List
>> >> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>> >>
>> >> Edd,
>> >> From what you are saying, it sounds like either your T-1275
>> >> has failed for some reason, or you have a bad connection - possibly
>> >> in the battery switch itself. If you don't have a way to test the
>> >> battery, then substitute a known good battery in its place and see
>> >> what happens. Absolutely any car battery, including the cheapest
>> >> Walmart, will start your engine if the battery is fully charged
>> >> and in new condition. There is no way that you need to consider
>> >> paralleling starting batteries as a permanent solution to your
>> >> starting problem.
>> >> Steve Thomas
>> >> C&C27 MKIII
>> >> Port Stanley, ON
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > ___
>> >
>> > Email address:
>> > CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> > To change your list preference

Re: Stus-List Darker Smoke, Harder to Start

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

Also suggest hauling the starter motor and get it checked out. They don't live 
forever. 

RK

> On May 26, 2015, at 08:50, Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> If everything is good, then this battery can crank that engine without 
> breaking a sweat, even if the engine does not start easily and has to crank 
> for a bit. New connections are not automatically good connections. Check 
> resistance at every connection involved, and also measure voltage drop at the 
> starter when being cranked. It is also possible for a battery to have one bad 
> cell that will take a surface charge and make the battery look good until you 
> put a load on it. Harbor Freight has load testers for not a lot of money. You 
> could also take the battery to most places that sell batteries for a free 
> load test. 
> 
> Bill Bina 
> 
>> On 5/26/2015 11:34 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List wrote:
>> Steve,
>> 
>> That’s where I’m confused, to be honest — the spec sheet on the T-1275 is 
>> here: 
>> http://www.trojanbattery.com/pdf/datasheets/T1275_Trojan_Data_Sheets.pdf 
>> 
>> And, according to Josh, the engine can pull up to 175amps while starting. 
>> When I combine, there’s enough there. 
>> 
>> All my connections are sound — they’re all new. 
>> 
>> All the best,
>> 
>> Edd
>> 
>> 
>> Edd M. Schillay
>> Starship Enterprise
>> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
>> City Island, NY 
>> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>   
>> 
>>   
>> 
>>   
>> 
>>   
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>> On May 26, 2015, at 11:20 AM, S Thomas via CnC-List  
>>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> Edd, 
>>> From what you are saying, it sounds like either your T-1275 has 
>>> failed for some reason, or you have a bad connection - possibly in the 
>>> battery switch itself. If you don't have a way to test the battery, then 
>>> substitute a known good battery in its place and see what happens. 
>>> Absolutely any car battery, including the cheapest Walmart, will start your 
>>> engine if the battery is fully charged and in new condition. There is no 
>>> way that you need to consider paralleling starting batteries as a permanent 
>>> solution to your starting problem. 
>>>  
>>> Steve Thomas
>>> C&C27 MKIII
>>> Port Stanley, ON 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
>> of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Mast Rake on C&C 30 MK1

[Aaron Rouhi via CnC-List]

The C&C manual mentions 6" to 10" inches of rake (see below). I have recently 
adjusted my 30-1 to have around 3" of rake with backstay adjuster somewhat 
loose. I'm happy with the result. You are more than welcome to stop by and 
check out my setup. I'm in Back Creek.

  


Cheers,Aaron R.Admiral Maggie,1979 C&C 30 MK1 #540Annapolis, MD

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Date: Tue, 26 May 2015 11:17:17 -0400
Subject: Stus-List Mast Rake on C&C 30 MK1
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
CC: j...@zialater.com

Howdy listers, Last year I had my forestay replaced (for a new roller furler) 
and it ended up being longer than the original by maybe about 4 or 5 inches .  
I have adjusted the forestay all the way down but I still need plenty of 
backstay to keep it all tight.  So now my mast rake is about 15 inches at the 
boom.  I don’t have a ton of weather helm but it’s hard to be sure because I 
replaced the old main at the same time that I redid the forestay and the new 
sail is much more efficient.  The extra rake also lowers the boom so I need to 
use topping lift to keep it off the dodger. So…..how many inches of rake do you 
have?  And what would you consider optimal?  I will have to redo the forestay 
to fix this but it may be worth it. As always, I appreciate all the opinions 
and advice! Cheers, Joe Boyle30 MK1 ‘ZIA’Annapolis
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com  
  ___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 112, Issue 80

[Aaron Rouhi via CnC-List]

You might consider changing the engine stop cable at the same time. I replaced 
mine recently and the brand new stop cable requires a lot less force to pull. 
Not even remotely comparable to the old rusty one...
Cheers,Aaron R.Admiral Maggie,1979 C&C 30 MK1 #540Annapolis, MD

Date: Tue, 26 May 2015 12:19:38 -0400
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 112, Issue 80
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
CC: monta...@gmail.com

Yanmar  TYPE B Control panel.

The engine stop push pull that was attached to the Yanmar panel  had its last 
pull recently.  The panel became too brittle to withstand the leverage and hey 
presto.  Has anyone experienced the same?  We are looking to find a replacement 
panel or a new panel and relocate the engine stop lever elsewhere, perhaps the 
pedestal.

Appreciate any help/insight on this

James
C&C 34  1982
On Tue, May 26, 2015 at 12:00 PM,   wrote:
Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to

cnc-list@cnc-list.com



To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit

http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to

cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com



You can reach the person managing the list at

cnc-list-ow...@cnc-list.com



When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific

than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."





Today's Topics:



   1. Re:  Darker Smoke, Harder to Start (Bill Bina - gmail)





--



Message: 1

Date: Tue, 26 May 2015 11:50:09 -0400

From: Bill Bina - gmail 

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com

Subject: Re: Stus-List Darker Smoke, Harder to Start

Message-ID: <55649631.9090...@gmail.com>

Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252"; Format="flowed"



If everything is good, then this battery can crank that engine without

breaking a sweat, even if the engine does not start easily and has to

crank for a bit. New connections are not automatically good connections.

Check resistance at every connection involved, and also measure voltage

drop at the starter when being cranked. It is also possible for a

battery to have one bad cell that will take a surface charge and make

the battery look good until you put a load on it. Harbor Freight has

load testers for not a lot of money. You could also take the battery to

most places that sell batteries for a free load test.



Bill Bina



On 5/26/2015 11:34 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List wrote:

> Steve,

>

> That?s where I?m confused, to be honest ? the spec sheet on the T-1275

> is here:

> http://www.trojanbattery.com/pdf/datasheets/T1275_Trojan_Data_Sheets.pdf

>

> And, according to Josh, the engine can pull up to 175amps while

> starting. When I combine, there?s enough there.

>

> All my connections are sound ? they?re all new.

>

> All the best,

>

> Edd

>

>

> Edd M. Schillay

> Starship Enterprise

> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B

> City Island, NY

> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log <http://enterpriseb.blogspot.com/>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>> On May 26, 2015, at 11:20 AM, S Thomas via CnC-List

>> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

>>

>> Edd,

>> From what you are saying, it sounds like either your T-1275

>> has failed for some reason, or you have a bad connection - possibly

>> in the battery switch itself. If you don't have a way to test the

>> battery, then substitute a known good battery in its place and see

>> what happens. Absolutely any car battery, including the cheapest

>> Walmart, will start your engine if the battery is fully charged

>> and in new condition. There is no way that you need to consider

>> paralleling starting batteries as a permanent solution to your

>> starting problem.

>> Steve Thomas

>> C&C27 MKIII

>> Port Stanley, ON

>

>

>

> ___

>

> Email address:

> CnC-List@cnc-list.com

> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:

> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

>



-- next part --

An HTML attachment was scrubbed...

URL: 
<http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20150526/7429f9c7/attachment-0001.html>



--



Subject: Digest Footer



___

CnC-List mailing list

CnC-List@cnc-list.com

http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com





--

Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 112, Issue 80

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

Agreed — I replaced mine a couple of years ago — night and day. 

I also relocated it to someplace easier to grab, instead of having to kneel 
down and pull sideways, I now lift a panel where I’m seated at the helm and 
pull upwards. 

All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 













> On May 26, 2015, at 1:36 PM, Aaron Rouhi via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> You might consider changing the engine stop cable at the same time. I 
> replaced mine recently and the brand new stop cable requires a lot less force 
> to pull. Not even remotely comparable to the old rusty one...
> 
> Cheers,
> Aaron R.
> Admiral Maggie,
> 1979 C&C 30 MK1 #540
> Annapolis, MD
> 
> 
> Date: Tue, 26 May 2015 12:19:38 -0400
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 112, Issue 80
> From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> CC: monta...@gmail.com 
> 
> Yanmar  TYPE B Control panel.
> 
> The engine stop push pull that was attached to the Yanmar panel  had its last 
> pull recently.  The panel became too brittle to withstand the leverage and 
> hey presto.  Has anyone experienced the same?  We are looking to find a 
> replacement panel or a new panel and relocate the engine stop lever 
> elsewhere, perhaps the pedestal.
> 
> Appreciate any help/insight on this
> 
> James
> C&C 34  1982
> 
> On Tue, May 26, 2015 at 12:00 PM,   > wrote:
> Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> 
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 
> 
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
> cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com 
> 
> You can reach the person managing the list at
> cnc-list-ow...@cnc-list.com 
> 
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."
> 
> 
> Today's Topics:
> 
>1. Re:  Darker Smoke, Harder to Start (Bill Bina - gmail)
> 
> 
> --
> 
> Message: 1
> Date: Tue, 26 May 2015 11:50:09 -0400
> From: Bill Bina - gmail  >
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Darker Smoke, Harder to Start
> Message-ID: <55649631.9090...@gmail.com >
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252"; Format="flowed"
> 
> If everything is good, then this battery can crank that engine without
> breaking a sweat, even if the engine does not start easily and has to
> crank for a bit. New connections are not automatically good connections.
> Check resistance at every connection involved, and also measure voltage
> drop at the starter when being cranked. It is also possible for a
> battery to have one bad cell that will take a surface charge and make
> the battery look good until you put a load on it. Harbor Freight has
> load testers for not a lot of money. You could also take the battery to
> most places that sell batteries for a free load test.
> 
> Bill Bina
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Mast Rake on C&C 30 MK1

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

I went down to the boat to check (curious). Couldn't get a really accurate 
measurement because we have a breeze today. But it looks closer to 10 inches 
than 15. I'll wait until the breeze abates, the boat is just a block away.

Gary
St. Michaels MD
  - Original Message - 
  From: Joe at Zialater via CnC-List 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Cc: Joe at Zialater 
  Sent: Tuesday, May 26, 2015 11:17 AM
  Subject: Stus-List Mast Rake on C&C 30 MK1


  Howdy listers,

   

  Last year I had my forestay replaced (for a new roller furler) and it ended 
up being longer than the original by maybe about 4 or 5 inches .  I have 
adjusted the forestay all the way down but I still need plenty of backstay to 
keep it all tight.  So now my mast rake is about 15 inches at the boom.  I 
don't have a ton of weather helm but it's hard to be sure because I replaced 
the old main at the same time that I redid the forestay and the new sail is 
much more efficient.  The extra rake also lowers the boom so I need to use 
topping lift to keep it off the dodger.

   

  So...how many inches of rake do you have?  And what would you consider 
optimal?  I will have to redo the forestay to fix this but it may be worth it.

   

  As always, I appreciate all the opinions and advice!

   

  Cheers,

   

  Joe Boyle

  30 MK1 'ZIA'

  Annapolis



--


  ___

  Email address:
  CnC-List@cnc-list.com
  To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
of page at:
  http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Stus-List Mast Rake on C&C 30

[Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List]

Hi Joe, 

I just adjusted mine from about 13.5" to about 10.5 - 11" and it made a 
world of difference in 12 - 15 + Knots winds.  The helm was balanced in 
calm winds but I was getting more than my share of weather helm in the 
heavier stuff, sometimes that was forcing me to have a less aggressive 
traveler setup than I wanted.  (The adjustment range on my boat is about 9 
- 12") 


Here's the Tunining blurb from the CNCPhotoAlbum  (
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/doityourself/masttuning/tuning.htm)

"C&C yachts are designed to carry from 6" of rake on the 24 foot up to 
about 10" on the 38 foot. Some sailmakers prefer no rake at all; that is a 
perfectly plumb spar, but from an appearance point of view, as well as 
helm balance point of view, begin using the measurements mentioned above. 
" 

I would say that 9-10" inches on your boat is a good place to start.  If 
you're out of turnbuckle adjustment and sitting at 15 inches I'd say 
consider having your rigger rectify the situation. 

I light winds it will show much in anything 15-18 knots and above winds 
the helm will most likely get tiresome, especially if it's gusty.


Good Luck, 

Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA 



Howdy listers,
>
>
>
> Last year I had my forestay replaced (for a new roller furler) and it
> ended up being longer than the original by maybe about 4 or 5 inches . I
> have adjusted the forestay all the way down but I still need plenty of
> backstay to keep it all tight.  So now my mast rake is about 15 inches 
at
> the boom.  I don?t have a ton of weather helm but it?s hard to be sure
> because I replaced the old main at the same time that I redid the 
forestay
> and the new sail is much more efficient.  The extra rake also lowers the
> boom so I need to use topping lift to keep it off the dodger.
>
>
>
> So?..how many inches of rake do you have?  And what would you consider
> optimal?  I will have to redo the forestay to fix this but it may be 
worth
> it.
>
>
>
> As always, I appreciate all the opinions and advice!
>
>
>
> Cheers,
>
>
>
> Joe Boyle

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Darker Smoke, Harder to Start

[S Thomas via CnC-List]

The thing that convinces me that it is either the battery itself or resistance 
in the wiring somewhere is the fact that he gets quick starts and fast cranking 
as soon as he switches in the house battery. That doesn't mean that the starter 
is perfect either, but it just doesn't sound like the main source of the 
problem to me. 

Steve
  - Original Message - 
  From: Knowles Rich via CnC-List 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Cc: Knowles Rich 
  Sent: Tuesday, May 26, 2015 12:58
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Darker Smoke, Harder to Start


  Also suggest hauling the starter motor and get it checked out. They don't 
live forever. 

  RK

  On May 26, 2015, at 08:50, Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List 
 wrote:


If everything is good, then this battery can crank that engine without 
breaking a sweat, even if the engine does not start easily and has to crank for 
a bit. New connections are not automatically good connections. Check resistance 
at every connection involved, and also measure voltage drop at the starter when 
being cranked. It is also possible for a battery to have one bad cell that will 
take a surface charge and make the battery look good until you put a load on 
it. Harbor Freight has load testers for not a lot of money. You could also take 
the battery to most places that sell batteries for a free load test. 

Bill Bina 

On 5/26/2015 11:34 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List wrote:

  Steve, 


  That’s where I’m confused, to be honest — the spec sheet on the T-1275 is 
here: http://www.trojanbattery.com/pdf/datasheets/T1275_Trojan_Data_Sheets.pdf 


  And, according to Josh, the engine can pull up to 175amps while starting. 
When I combine, there’s enough there. 


  All my connections are sound — they’re all new. 


  All the best,


  Edd




  Edd M. Schillay
  Starship Enterprise
  C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
  City Island, NY 
  Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log



   













On May 26, 2015, at 11:20 AM, S Thomas via CnC-List 
 wrote:


Edd, 
From what you are saying, it sounds like either your T-1275 has 
failed for some reason, or you have a bad connection - possibly in the battery 
switch itself. If you don't have a way to test the battery, then substitute a 
known good battery in its place and see what happens. Absolutely any car 
battery, including the cheapest Walmart, will start your engine if the battery 
is fully charged and in new condition. There is no way that you need to 
consider paralleling starting batteries as a permanent solution to your 
starting problem. 

Steve Thomas
C&C27 MKIII
Port Stanley, ON 





   

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com



___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the 
bottom of page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com




--


  ___

  Email address:
  CnC-List@cnc-list.com
  To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
of page at:
  http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Mast Rake on C&C 30 MK1

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

Section 4.3 of the C&C Owner's Manual dated April, 1976 (which covers the
24, 25, 27, 30, 33, and 38) indicates that C&C designed the rig to have mast
rake between 6" on the 24 and 10" on the 38. It goes on to say that some
sailmakers prefer to have no aft rake, though C&C suggests using their
design number as a starting point. It also says that in no circumstances do
you want to induce forward rake.

 

Since my 25 has essentially the same rig as a 24, she is set to 6" of rake.
My 38 is in the 8-9" range, but the old Neal Pryde main is sort of baggy and
10" would probably be more appropriate if I had a newer sail.

 

I hate to say it, but you probably should shorten your forestay and get your
mast rake back to something around 8". Get the guy who made it too long last
year to fix his error.

 

Rick Brass

Imzadi  C&C 38 mk 2

la Belle Aurore C&C 25 mk1

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joe at
Zialater via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, May 26, 2015 11:17 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joe at Zialater
Subject: Stus-List Mast Rake on C&C 30 MK1

 

Howdy listers,

 

Last year I had my forestay replaced (for a new roller furler) and it ended
up being longer than the original by maybe about 4 or 5 inches .  I have
adjusted the forestay all the way down but I still need plenty of backstay
to keep it all tight.  So now my mast rake is about 15 inches at the boom.
I don't have a ton of weather helm but it's hard to be sure because I
replaced the old main at the same time that I redid the forestay and the new
sail is much more efficient.  The extra rake also lowers the boom so I need
to use topping lift to keep it off the dodger.

 

So...how many inches of rake do you have?  And what would you consider
optimal?  I will have to redo the forestay to fix this but it may be worth
it.

 

As always, I appreciate all the opinions and advice!

 

Cheers,

 

Joe Boyle

30 MK1 'ZIA'

Annapolis

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Darker Smoke, Harder to Start

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

Edd,

I am not trying to say that you did not check it already, but... 

Last year, when I installed my batteries after the winter, one of them read 
only 7 V (when measured at the panel). I though that it gave up the ghost (it 
is about 5 years old), but it turned out that this was the connection between 
the battery terminal and the wire. If I did not see it with my own eyes, I 
would not believe that it is possible.

So it might be worthwhile to re-check all the connections between the battery 
and the starter motor.

just a thought

Marek

From: S Thomas via CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, May 26, 2015 2:27 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: S Thomas 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Darker Smoke, Harder to Start

The thing that convinces me that it is either the battery itself or resistance 
in the wiring somewhere is the fact that he gets quick starts and fast cranking 
as soon as he switches in the house battery. That doesn't mean that the starter 
is perfect either, but it just doesn't sound like the main source of the 
problem to me. 

Steve
  - Original Message - 
  From: Knowles Rich via CnC-List 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Cc: Knowles Rich 
  Sent: Tuesday, May 26, 2015 12:58
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Darker Smoke, Harder to Start

  Also suggest hauling the starter motor and get it checked out. They don't 
live forever. 

  RK

  On May 26, 2015, at 08:50, Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List 
 wrote:


If everything is good, then this battery can crank that engine without 
breaking a sweat, even if the engine does not start easily and has to crank for 
a bit. New connections are not automatically good connections. Check resistance 
at every connection involved, and also measure voltage drop at the starter when 
being cranked. It is also possible for a battery to have one bad cell that will 
take a surface charge and make the battery look good until you put a load on 
it. Harbor Freight has load testers for not a lot of money. You could also take 
the battery to most places that sell batteries for a free load test. 

Bill Bina 

On 5/26/2015 11:34 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List wrote:

  Steve, 

  That’s where I’m confused, to be honest — the spec sheet on the T-1275 is 
here: http://www.trojanbattery.com/pdf/datasheets/T1275_Trojan_Data_Sheets.pdf 

  And, according to Josh, the engine can pull up to 175amps while starting. 
When I combine, there’s enough there. 

  All my connections are sound — they’re all new. 


  All the best,

  Edd


  Edd M. Schillay
  Starship Enterprise
  C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
  City Island, NY 
  Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log


   











On May 26, 2015, at 11:20 AM, S Thomas via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Edd, 
From what you are saying, it sounds like either your T-1275 has 
failed for some reason, or you have a bad connection - possibly in the battery 
switch itself. If you don't have a way to test the battery, then substitute a 
known good battery in its place and see what happens. Absolutely any car 
battery, including the cheapest Walmart, will start your engine if the battery 
is fully charged and in new condition. There is no way that you need to 
consider paralleling starting batteries as a permanent solution to your 
starting problem. 

Steve Thomas
C&C27 MKIII
Port Stanley, ON 




   

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com



___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the 
bottom of page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com




--
  ___

  Email address:
  CnC-List@cnc-list.com
  To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
of page at:
  http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com





___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Darker Smoke, Harder to Start

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

Edd, the installation manual for my M35B tells me to size the battery cables 
for a maximum cranking current of 175 amps. I suspect the problem is not your 
new Trojan battery.

 

As someone else suggested, more glow plug time may be in order. For me 10-15 
seconds of glow plugs (which also operates the lift pump to charge the fuel 
injection, BTW) gets the engine started with only 5-10 seconds of cranking. You 
might also want to check your glow plug relay to see if that is functioning 
properly.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Edd Schillay 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, May 26, 2015 9:52 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Edd Schillay
Subject: Re: Stus-List Darker Smoke, Harder to Start

 

All,

 

Did a bunch of tests this weekend and took one lister’s advice to burn off some 
carbon buildup. In the end, it appears my new Trojan T-1275 starting battery, 
despite what the numbers say, isn’t pushing out enough juice to get the 25 
year-old Universal cranking, even at a full charge (12.7 volts).

 

So, it looks like I should supplement my starting bank. I just have to find a 
spot on the boat to put it. 

 

Thanks to all. 


All the best,

 

Edd

 

 

Edd M. Schillay

Starship Enterprise

C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B

City Island, NY 

Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log  

 









   

 






 

On May 25, 2015, at 10:08 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

 

Edd,

It's normal for dark smoke (unburned fuel) to exhaust if it takes longer to 
fire.  Do you have glow plugs on your Universal like on mine?  You may just 
need more glow plug time?

 

Universal recommends, "Turn key on to energize electric fuel pump, shifter in 
neutral, thottle 1/3rd, hold the glow plug button for 30 to 60 seconds, 
depending on outside temperature.  Continue to hold glow plug button while 
pressing start button to crank engine.  Release both when engine starts."

 

Simple to check glow plugs:  Before starting, with engine cold, open the 
compartment so you can feel the engine, locate your glow plugs follow the wire 
to each cylinder, feel the temperature of the engine cylinder heads.  Back in 
cockpit, turn on switch and hold the glow plug button for a minute without 
pushing the start button.  Then go below and feel the cylinder heads and you 
should feel a warm area near each glow plug.  If anyone is colder than the 
others;  bad connection or bad plug.

 

 

Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md

 


  _  


From: "Edd Schillay via CnC-List" mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
To: "cnc-list Cnc-List" mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: "Edd Schillay" mailto:e...@schillay.com> >
Sent: Sunday, May 24, 2015 6:07:34 PM
Subject: Stus-List Darker Smoke, Harder to Start

 

Listers,

 

I find I'm having a harder time getting the engine started and seeing a little 
bit of darker smoke when it does turn over, as compared to last season. 

 

Once running, everything seems fine -- temperature, water flow, revolutions, 
etc. 

 

Any ideas or suggestions?

 

Usually, my solution to engine problems is "get the jib out."

 

 

All the best,

 

Edd

 

---

Edd M. Schillay

Starship Enterprise

NCC-1701-B

C&C 37+ | City Island, NY

www.StarshipSailing.com  

---

914.332.4400  | Office

914.774.9767  | Mobile

---

Sent via iPhone 6

iPhone. iTypos. iApologize


___

 

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com  
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

 

 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com  
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Stus-List Pictures of my DIY whisker pole mounts

[Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List]

Hi, A while back I mentioned I that I made some DIY mounts for my new 
whisker pole, you can check them out on Flickr here:  
https://www.flickr.com/photos/133565480@N04/

The links for the parts used are on the photo descriptions. 


Regards, 

-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Antifreeze Mystery

[robert via CnC-List]

John:

Taking into account my previous post to Burt, can you elaborate on the 
leaky impeller gasket.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.



On 2015-05-26 1:01 PM, John Irvin via CnC-List wrote:

Sounds like leaky impeller gasket.

From: robert via CnC-List 
Sent: ‎2015-‎05-‎26 10:12 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: robert 
Subject: Stus-List Antifreeze Mystery

Burt:

If you are referring to the 'water pump' on the front of the engine,
that is not where the antifreeze is originating from.it appears to
be dripping from the back of the engine on the port side or to the right
looking into the engine compartment from the companionway.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 -84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2015-05-26 10:59 AM, Burt Stratton via CnC-List wrote:
> I would replace my water pump shaft seals. Can't hurt and might fix the
> problem.
>
> Burt
> 1974 C&C 33
>
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
robert

> via CnC-List
> Sent: Sunday, May 24, 2015 11:25 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: robert
> Subject: Stus-List Antifreeze Mystery
>
> After the engine is winterized in the Fall, I place a plastic pan under
> it.not sure why but I do.  Every Spring, there is approximately 
a half a

> cup or 250 ml of antifreeze in the pan.
>
> I have looked everywhere for the source of this antifreeze but I 
can't find
> out where it is coming from.  The boat was launched 3 weeks ago, the 
engine
> has about 3 hours on it since then, the pan is still under the 
engine but
> there is no antifreeze in it.  And the antifreeze does not appear 
during the

> sailing season.
>
> I notice every Spring the level of the antifreeze in the 'overflow
> container' is down a bit and I refill to the 'FULL LEVEL' but that 
container

> is not leaking.  It's a mystery!
>
> Anybody experience this and/or have any ideas where this antifreeze 
could be

> originating from?
>
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C&C 32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S.
>
>
>


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Darker Smoke, Harder to Start

[sammythegreat2]

Rick,
It is time for u to write that book.
Lets go sailing and talk ant the outline...
Miss u,
K

Sent from my HTC

- Reply message -
From: "Rick Brass via CnC-List" 
To: 
Cc: "Rick Brass" 
Subject: Stus-List Darker Smoke, Harder to Start
Date: Tue, May 26, 2015 3:48 PM

Edd, the installation manual for my M35B tells me to size the battery cables 
for a maximum cranking current of 175 amps. I suspect the problem is not your 
new Trojan battery.



As someone else suggested, more glow plug time may be in order. For me 10-15 
seconds of glow plugs (which also operates the lift pump to charge the fuel 
injection, BTW) gets the engine started with only 5-10 seconds of cranking. You 
might also want to check your glow plug relay to see if that is functioning 
properly.



Rick Brass

Washington, NC







From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Edd Schillay 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, May 26, 2015 9:52 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Edd Schillay
Subject: Re: Stus-List Darker Smoke, Harder to Start



All,



Did a bunch of tests this weekend and took one lister’s advice to burn off some 
carbon buildup. In the end, it appears my new Trojan T-1275 starting battery, 
despite what the numbers say, isn’t pushing out enough juice to get the 25 
year-old Universal cranking, even at a full charge (12.7 volts).



So, it looks like I should supplement my starting bank. I just have to find a 
spot on the boat to put it. 



Thanks to all. 


All the best,



Edd





Edd M. Schillay

Starship Enterprise

C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B

City Island, NY 

Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log  






















On May 25, 2015, at 10:08 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:



Edd,

It's normal for dark smoke (unburned fuel) to exhaust if it takes longer to 
fire.  Do you have glow plugs on your Universal like on mine?  You may just 
need more glow plug time?



Universal recommends, "Turn key on to energize electric fuel pump, shifter in 
neutral, thottle 1/3rd, hold the glow plug button for 30 to 60 seconds, 
depending on outside temperature.  Continue to hold glow plug button while 
pressing start button to crank engine.  Release both when engine starts."



Simple to check glow plugs:  Before starting, with engine cold, open the 
compartment so you can feel the engine, locate your glow plugs follow the wire 
to each cylinder, feel the temperature of the engine cylinder heads.  Back in 
cockpit, turn on switch and hold the glow plug button for a minute without 
pushing the start button.  Then go below and feel the cylinder heads and you 
should feel a warm area near each glow plug.  If anyone is colder than the 
others;  bad connection or bad plug.





Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md




_  


From: "Edd Schillay via CnC-List" mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
To: "cnc-list Cnc-List" mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: "Edd Schillay" mailto:e...@schillay.com> >
Sent: Sunday, May 24, 2015 6:07:34 PM
Subject: Stus-List Darker Smoke, Harder to Start



Listers,



I find I'm having a harder time getting the engine started and seeing a little 
bit of darker smoke when it does turn over, as compared to last season. 



Once running, everything seems fine -- temperature, water flow, revolutions, 
etc. 



Any ideas or suggestions?



Usually, my solution to engine problems is "get the jib out."





All the best,



Edd



---

Edd M. Schillay

Starship Enterprise

NCC-1701-B

C&C 37+ | City Island, NY

www.StarshipSailing.com  

---

914.332.4400  | Office

914.774.9767  | Mobile

---

Sent via iPhone 6

iPhone. iTypos. iApologize


___



Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com  
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com





___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com  
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Engine control panel

[jtsails via CnC-List]

I just remade my panel and got it from www.frontpanelexpress.com . Download 
their design program and DIY. Very easy to figure out and the panel came out 
awesome and inexpensive. The program even quotes the price!
James
Delaney
C&C 38 Mk2
Oriental, NC


From: Dennis C. via CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, May 26, 2015 12:23 PM
To: CnClist 
Cc: Dennis C. 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Engine control panel

Tom Vincent posted this a few months back.

Steven Leach is the General Manager of DMP Automation , Inc., I met him at the 
Atlantic Boat Show this year and was very impressed with the things his company 
can do regarding instrument gauges and dash panels. I spoke to Steven about 
replacing my entire panel with all new gauges. the company can laser cut any 
size and shape that you want and install any type of gauge, starter button, 
idiot light, etc. that you would like. The company website is 
www.dmpautomation.com and Steven can be reached at st...@dmpautomation.com.
 

Dennis C.


On Tue, May 26, 2015 at 9:19 AM, James Montague via CnC-List 
 wrote:

  Yanmar  TYPE B Control panel.

  The engine stop push pull that was attached to the Yanmar panel  had its last 
pull recently.  The panel became too brittle to withstand the leverage and hey 
presto.  Has anyone experienced the same?  We are looking to find a replacement 
panel or a new panel and relocate the engine stop lever elsewhere, perhaps the 
pedestal.

  Appreciate any help/insight on this

  James
  C&C 34  1982







___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List bedding of windows

[Rick Rohwer via CnC-List]

After using Butyl tape for the first time on my dodger window install, I follow 
the recommendation of so many folks I met in Canada last summer and would 
encourage you to try this product for hatches windows or any of the deck 
sealant issue you might have.  The savings in clean up alone is immense and I 
think it makes for a much more dependable seal.  As for the life of the 
product, I am only onto it about 2 weeks, but everyone I met last summer were 
really hyped up about it.  Marine stores have it (West Marine will order it), 
but ebay has various colors and thicknesses for mucho cheaper.  I made quite an 
investment in my 20 foot roll,  

Rick Rohwer
C&C 37+ Paikea
Poulsbo, WA  (until manana and then only the wind and God knows for sure) 

> On May 26, 2015, at 7:06 AM, robert via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Adam:
> 
> We installed new cabin windows about 6 years ago..it's not rocket science 
> but it was labor intensive.  I am assuming your windows are flush with the 
> side of the cabin top with no frames and/or screws or other fastenersthat 
> the way they are on the 32's .  Our windows leaked and the only sure way to 
> stop it was to replace them.
> 
> Some time back, I posted on this list, the step by step process we used 
> however it is not on my new laptop ..I will check to see if it is still 
> on my old laptop and send it to you.
> 
> Where is your boat now?
> 
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C&C 32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S.
> 
> On 2015-05-25 2:45 PM, Adam Hayden via CnC-List wrote:
>> Jim
>> 
>> Sorry about the reply on the last thread I could hardly follow the 
>> replys and I know better.   The ports are as you described sealed into a 
>> moulded  recess on the cabin top.   I think actually from your description 
>> now I understand how they will come out.
>> 
>> I am doing a complete refit of the boat so I will add it to the list of 
>> projects.  Although the refit is mostly done.
>> 
>> Mike, we bought Silver Tassie last fall.  No comments please on her 
>> condition.  :)
>> 
>> Adam
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> ___
>> 
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
>> of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Antifreeze Mystery

[Rick Rohwer via CnC-List]

Gotta be a freeze plug that weeps.  Contracts when cold and seals when warm.   
> On May 24, 2015, at 8:21 PM, Brent Driedger via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Interesting problem. 
> I have a small John Deere tractor with a 23 hp Yanmar engine. When the 
> temperature is hovering lower than minus 15c a small amount of antifreeze 
> leeks out onto the garage floor.  I've always wondered why. 
> There's little change in the overall volume of the cooling system and all 
> summer long there's no issue. Maybe a Yanmar thing. 
> 
> Brent
> 27-5
> Lake Winnipeg. 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On May 24, 2015, at 8:24 PM, robert via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> John:
>> 
>> Thank you both good tips...your first one could be the culprit but your 
>> second one could also be the  culprit.the antifreeze (Preston) is 
>> approx. 8 years oldI will flush and replace it before Fall layup and see 
>> what happens.  As I said earlier, it does not happen after launch and before 
>> hauljust during the cold of winter.
>> 
>> A few years back, one of the engine block antifreeze drain valves came loose 
>> during the sailing & motoring season which was noticed when antifreeze 
>> entered the bilgea little stress until the loose valve was detected.  
>> Some times we get lucky!
>> 
>> Rob Abbott
>> AZURA
>> C&C 32 - 84
>> Halifax, N.S.
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>> On 2015-05-24 3:33 PM, John Russo via CnC-List wrote:
>>> Check to insure your engine block drain valves are tight before winter
>>> storage. Second thought is weird but offered anyhow. Is antifreeze fresh?
>>> Could there be a blockage somewhere where the antifreeze is diluted and
>>> freezes which would expand and force the top stuff out somehow. I said it
>>> was a weird thought! I will discuss it with the mechanic at the yard who is
>>> pretty sharp and seen most things.
>>> 
>>> John
>>> C&C 32
>>> Arpeggio
>>> 
>>> -Original Message-
>>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of robert
>>> via CnC-List
>>> Sent: Sunday, May 24, 2015 11:25 AM
>>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>> Cc: robert
>>> Subject: Stus-List Antifreeze Mystery
>>> 
>>> After the engine is winterized in the Fall, I place a plastic pan under
>>> it.not sure why but I do.  Every Spring, there is approximately a half a
>>> cup or 250 ml of antifreeze in the pan.
>>> 
>>> I have looked everywhere for the source of this antifreeze but I can't find
>>> out where it is coming from.  The boat was launched 3 weeks ago, the engine
>>> has about 3 hours on it since then, the pan is still under the engine but
>>> there is no antifreeze in it.  And the antifreeze does not appear during the
>>> sailing season.
>>> 
>>> I notice every Spring the level of the antifreeze in the 'overflow
>>> container' is down a bit and I refill to the 'FULL LEVEL' but that container
>>> is not leaking.  It's a mystery!
>>> 
>>> Anybody experience this and/or have any ideas where this antifreeze could be
>>> originating from?
>>> 
>>> Rob Abbott
>>> AZURA
>>> C&C 32 - 84
>>> Halifax, N.S.
>>> 
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> Email address:
>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom
>>> of page at:
>>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>> 
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> Email address:
>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the 
>>> bottom of page at:
>>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
>> of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Mast Rake on C&C 30 MK1

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

15 inches sounds a bit much for a 30 but I'd try it for a while before I
make any change.  If you don't see a lot of weather helm in stiff breezes,
don't worry about it.

I have 11-12 inches rake on my 35-1 and really like the way it sails.
Fairly neutral helm.  And that's with a fairly old main.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Tue, May 26, 2015 at 8:17 AM, Joe at Zialater via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Howdy listers,
>
>
>
> Last year I had my forestay replaced (for a new roller furler) and it
> ended up being longer than the original by maybe about 4 or 5 inches .  I
> have adjusted the forestay all the way down but I still need plenty of
> backstay to keep it all tight.  So now my mast rake is about 15 inches at
> the boom.  I don’t have a ton of weather helm but it’s hard to be sure
> because I replaced the old main at the same time that I redid the forestay
> and the new sail is much more efficient.  The extra rake also lowers the
> boom so I need to use topping lift to keep it off the dodger.
>
>
>
> So…..how many inches of rake do you have?  And what would you consider
> optimal?  I will have to redo the forestay to fix this but it may be worth
> it.
>
>
>
> As always, I appreciate all the opinions and advice!
>
>
>
> Cheers,
>
>
>
> Joe Boyle
>
> 30 MK1 ‘ZIA’
>
> Annapolis
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List A-4 zincs

[Rick Taillieu via CnC-List]

Burt,

 

Another good site for manuals is here: http://l-36.com/

 

 

Rick Taillieu

Nemesis

'75 C&C 25  #371

Shearwater Yacht Club

Halifax, NS.

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Burt
Stratton via CnC-List
Sent: May-26-15 10:48
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Burt Stratton
Subject: Re: Stus-List A-4 zincs

 

Thank you, Rick. This is very helpful.

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick
Taillieu via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, May 22, 2015 3:34 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Rick Taillieu
Subject: Re: Stus-List A-4 zincs

 

Burt,

 

Check here for a PDF of the service manual and a parts list.

http://www.tartan34library.com/

 

 

Rick Taillieu

Nemesis

'75 C&C 25  #371

Shearwater Yacht Club

Halifax, NS.

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Burt
Stratton via CnC-List
Sent: May-22-15 11:12
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Burt Stratton
Subject: Stus-List A-4 zincs

 

I am new to the ownership of an Atomic 4. So far it has been a very pleasant
experience. I am reasonably sure it is original to the boat. It has a couple
upgrades like electric fuel pump and electronic ignition (no points). Ran
great through a short season last year. No issues of any kind. Just needed
to figure out how to stop the boat and back her down with a two blade
folding prop.. lots of patience.

 

I do need to find and replace all the zincs, though. It is a raw water
cooled motor and no water heater in the cooling loop. Is there a document
available that will identify where I might find zincs on this motor? Maybe
an owners manual or service manual on line? I have an owners manual on the
boat but it is pretty beat up.

 

Burt

1974 C&C 33-3 quarter tonner

On the hard in the back yard 

Walpole, MA

  _  

No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2015.0.5941 / Virus Database: 4347/9842 - Release Date: 05/22/15

  _  

No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2015.0.5961 / Virus Database: 4354/9874 - Release Date: 05/26/15

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 112, Issue 80

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

James



Had the same experience.  Drilled a new hole through the adjacent fiberglass 
panel, mounted a new cable ,taped over the old hole in the panel and good to go



John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C&C 34

Noank, CT



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Frederick G 
Street via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, May 26, 2015 12:42 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Frederick G Street
Subject: Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 112, Issue 80



James -- I may have a replacement panel for you.  Let me check tonight.



Fred Street -- Minneapolis

S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI




On May 26, 2015, at 11:19 AM, James Montague via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Yanmar  TYPE B Control panel.

The engine stop push pull that was attached to the Yanmar panel  had its last 
pull recently.  The panel became too brittle to withstand the leverage and hey 
presto.  Has anyone experienced the same?  We are looking to find a replacement 
panel or a new panel and relocate the engine stop lever elsewhere, perhaps the 
pedestal.

Appreciate any help/insight on this

James
C&C 34  1982



On Tue, May 26, 2015 at 12:00 PM,  wrote:

Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
cnc-list@cnc-list.com

To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com

You can reach the person managing the list at
cnc-list-ow...@cnc-list.com

When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."


Today's Topics:

   1. Re:  Darker Smoke, Harder to Start (Bill Bina - gmail)


--

Message: 1
Date: Tue, 26 May 2015 11:50:09 -0400
From: Bill Bina - gmail 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Darker Smoke, Harder to Start
Message-ID: <55649631.9090...@gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252"; Format="flowed"

If everything is good, then this battery can crank that engine without
breaking a sweat, even if the engine does not start easily and has to
crank for a bit. New connections are not automatically good connections.
Check resistance at every connection involved, and also measure voltage
drop at the starter when being cranked. It is also possible for a
battery to have one bad cell that will take a surface charge and make
the battery look good until you put a load on it. Harbor Freight has
load testers for not a lot of money. You could also take the battery to
most places that sell batteries for a free load test.

Bill Bina

On 5/26/2015 11:34 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List wrote:
> Steve,
>
> That?s where I?m confused, to be honest ? the spec sheet on the T-1275
> is here:
> http://www.trojanbattery.com/pdf/datasheets/T1275_Trojan_Data_Sheets.pdf
>
> And, according to Josh, the engine can pull up to 175amps while
> starting. When I combine, there?s enough there.
>
> All my connections are sound ? they?re all new.
>
> All the best,
>
> Edd
>
>
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log <http://enterpriseb.blogspot.com/>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>> On May 26, 2015, at 11:20 AM, S Thomas via CnC-List
>> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>>
>> Edd,
>> From what you are saying, it sounds like either your T-1275
>> has failed for some reason, or you have a bad connection - possibly
>> in the battery switch itself. If you don't have a way to test the
>> battery, then substitute a known good battery in its place and see
>> what happens. Absolutely any car battery, including the cheapest
>> Walmart, will start your engine if the battery is fully charged
>> and in new condition. There is no way that you need to consider
>> paralleling starting batteries as a permanent solution to your
>> starting problem.
>> Steve Thomas
>> C&C27 MKIII
>> Port Stanley, ON
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>

-- next part --
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: 
<http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20150526/7429f9c7/attachment-0001.html>

--

Subject: Digest Footer

___
CnC-List mailing list
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/

Re: Stus-List Pictures of my DIY whisker pole mounts

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Very clever Francois. I'm copying the 34/36 group. 

- Original Message -

From: "Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List"  
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: "Jean-Francois J Rivard"  
Sent: Tuesday, May 26, 2015 4:49:44 PM 
Subject: Stus-List Pictures of my DIY whisker pole mounts 

Hi, A while back I mentioned I that I made some DIY mounts for my new whisker 
pole, you can check them out on Flickr here: 
https://www.flickr.com/photos/133565480@N04/ 

The links for the parts used are on the photo descriptions. 


Regards, 

-Francois Rivard 
1990 34+ "Take Five" 
Lake Lanier, GA 

___ 

Email address: 
CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at: 
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Mast Rake on C&C 30 MK1

[Curtis via CnC-List]

I sailed this past Sunday with 18 to 20 with 25 gust. I had just the main
with no head sail. The man was not reefed.
I had to fight the helm all after noon. Should I have reefed and raised the
110% head sail? Would she have better balanced? Also my inner shroud was
slack like 3" to 4 " on the lee side? is that normal or is it too loose?
Thanks for your thoughts.


S/V East Coast Lady,
1981 C&C 30 MK1 HIN #
675

On Tue, May 26, 2015 at 7:51 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> 15 inches sounds a bit much for a 30 but I'd try it for a while before I
> make any change.  If you don't see a lot of weather helm in stiff breezes,
> don't worry about it.
>
> I have 11-12 inches rake on my 35-1 and really like the way it sails.
> Fairly neutral helm.  And that's with a fairly old main.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> On Tue, May 26, 2015 at 8:17 AM, Joe at Zialater via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Howdy listers,
>>
>>
>>
>> Last year I had my forestay replaced (for a new roller furler) and it
>> ended up being longer than the original by maybe about 4 or 5 inches .  I
>> have adjusted the forestay all the way down but I still need plenty of
>> backstay to keep it all tight.  So now my mast rake is about 15 inches at
>> the boom.  I don't have a ton of weather helm but it's hard to be sure
>> because I replaced the old main at the same time that I redid the forestay
>> and the new sail is much more efficient.  The extra rake also lowers the
>> boom so I need to use topping lift to keep it off the dodger.
>>
>>
>>
>> So.how many inches of rake do you have?  And what would you consider
>> optimal?  I will have to redo the forestay to fix this but it may be worth
>> it.
>>
>>
>>
>> As always, I appreciate all the opinions and advice!
>>
>>
>>
>> Cheers,
>>
>>
>>
>> Joe Boyle
>>
>> 30 MK1 'ZIA'
>>
>> Annapolis
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>> bottom of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>
>>
>>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>


-- 

*Best regards,*


*Curtis McDaniel, *


*C&C 30-MK1 East Coast Lady*

Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you
didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away
from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream.
Discover.  -Mark Twain
http://eastcostlady.blogspot.com/



*cpt.b...@gmail.com *


* __/) *

.
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Stus-List Cnc 30 mkII

[JP Lalune via CnC-List]

Can I apply same mast rask rule for my 30 rod rigging MK II as the 30 MK I

Envoyé de mon iPhone
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List bedding of windows

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

if you plan to use butyl tape, I would strongly recommend trying Maine Sail’s 
product. I think he ships it free in the US. In Canada, the cost of shipping is 
somewhat prohibitive (if I recall, the s&h would be more then the tape itself). 
But it is possible to make a bigger order and share.

I got his product and I am happy. Of course, ymmv.

Marek

From: Rick Rohwer via CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, May 26, 2015 7:25 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Rick Rohwer 
Subject: Re: Stus-List bedding of windows

After using Butyl tape for the first time on my dodger window install, I follow 
the recommendation of so many folks I met in Canada last summer and would 
encourage you to try this product for hatches windows or any of the deck 
sealant issue you might have.  The savings in clean up alone is immense and I 
think it makes for a much more dependable seal.  As for the life of the 
product, I am only onto it about 2 weeks, but everyone I met last summer were 
really hyped up about it.  Marine stores have it (West Marine will order it), 
but ebay has various colors and thicknesses for mucho cheaper.  I made quite an 
investment in my 20 foot roll,   

Rick Rohwer
C&C 37+ Paikea
Poulsbo, WA  (until manana and then only the wind and God knows for sure) 

  On May 26, 2015, at 7:06 AM, robert via CnC-List  
wrote:

  Adam:

  We installed new cabin windows about 6 years ago..it's not rocket science 
but it was labor intensive.  I am assuming your windows are flush with the side 
of the cabin top with no frames and/or screws or other fastenersthat the 
way they are on the 32's .  Our windows leaked and the only sure way to stop it 
was to replace them.

  Some time back, I posted on this list, the step by step process we used 
however it is not on my new laptop ..I will check to see if it is still on 
my old laptop and send it to you.

  Where is your boat now?

  Rob Abbott
  AZURA
  C&C 32 - 84
  Halifax, N.S.

  On 2015-05-25 2:45 PM, Adam Hayden via CnC-List wrote:

Jim

Sorry about the reply on the last thread I could hardly follow the 
replys and I know better.   The ports are as you described sealed into a 
moulded  recess on the cabin top.   I think actually from your description now 
I understand how they will come out.

I am doing a complete refit of the boat so I will add it to the list of 
projects.  Although the refit is mostly done.

Mike, we bought Silver Tassie last fall.  No comments please on her 
condition.  :)

Adam



Sent from my iPhone
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the 
bottom of page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com




  ___

  Email address:
  CnC-List@cnc-list.com
  To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
of page at:
  http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com






___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Mast Rake on C&C 30 MK1

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

funny, we had the same conditions here in Ottawa. This was our first sail this 
season. 15-20 with higher gusts and quite choppy (as for our river/lake). I had 
1st reef on main and about 1/3 of 135 genoa unfurled. I could steer with two 
fingers. My wife did not have any problems, either. Different boat, though.

My experience is that generally, any one (single) sail would always create 
imbalance. If the wind gets stronger, I might roll the genoa in a bit further, 
but at least I want to keep a handkerchief of the staysail up front. The 
problem of course is that you now have two sails and at least three lines to 
manage.

Marek
C270, Legato
in Ottawa


From: Curtis via CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, May 26, 2015 10:25 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Curtis 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Mast Rake on C&C 30 MK1

I sailed this past Sunday with 18 to 20 with 25 gust. I had just the main with 
no head sail. The man was not reefed. 
I had to fight the helm all after noon. Should I have reefed and raised the 
110% head sail? Would she have better balanced? Also my inner shroud was slack 
like 3" to 4 " on the lee side? is that normal or is it too loose? Thanks for 
your thoughts.


S/V East Coast Lady,
1981 C&C 30 MK1 HIN #
675

On Tue, May 26, 2015 at 7:51 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
wrote:

  15 inches sounds a bit much for a 30 but I'd try it for a while before I make 
any change.  If you don't see a lot of weather helm in stiff breezes, don't 
worry about it.


  I have 11-12 inches rake on my 35-1 and really like the way it sails.  Fairly 
neutral helm.  And that's with a fairly old main.


  Dennis C.

  Touche' 35-1 #83

  Mandeville, LA


  On Tue, May 26, 2015 at 8:17 AM, Joe at Zialater via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Howdy listers,



Last year I had my forestay replaced (for a new roller furler) and it ended 
up being longer than the original by maybe about 4 or 5 inches .  I have 
adjusted the forestay all the way down but I still need plenty of backstay to 
keep it all tight.  So now my mast rake is about 15 inches at the boom.  I 
don’t have a ton of weather helm but it’s hard to be sure because I replaced 
the old main at the same time that I redid the forestay and the new sail is 
much more efficient.  The extra rake also lowers the boom so I need to use 
topping lift to keep it off the dodger.



So…..how many inches of rake do you have?  And what would you consider 
optimal?  I will have to redo the forestay to fix this but it may be worth it.



As always, I appreciate all the opinions and advice!



Cheers,



Joe Boyle

30 MK1 ‘ZIA’

Annapolis


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the 
bottom of page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com





  ___

  Email address:
  CnC-List@cnc-list.com
  To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
of page at:
  http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com







-- 

Best regards,

Curtis McDaniel, 


C&C 30-MK1 East Coast Lady


Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you 
didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away 
from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. 
Discover.  -Mark Twain
http://eastcostlady.blogspot.com/




cpt.b...@gmail.com



 __/) 

. 







___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com