I usually just leave the bike on the floor, straddle it, remove the top cap, loosen the stem and pull it off. You can hold the hadlebar in one hand while moving spacers around with the other, and then put it all back together. I usually use a similar procedure when swapping stems, but you need to have the new stem in easy reach if you don't have anyone around to assist.
On Dec 24, 11:07 am, JoelMatthews <joelmatth...@mac.com> wrote: > > I'm a big guy, mostly ride fixed gear, and i like the idea of wrenching on > > a bar/ > > stem that's firmly clamped to the outside of a circular steel steerer > > tube more than one that is literally wedged into place. > > I have bikes with either set up. I always worry about the little > bolts holding the threadless stem as opposed to the big honking bolt > in the middle of the quill. > > > I do think the "threadless stems make it harder to fine-tune the > > height adjustment" thing isn't as true as many make it out to be. > > Yes, you'll probably want to cut the steerer tube if there's excessive > > length above the stem and yes, you have to take the headset out of > > adjustment to adjust the height of the stem, but they make headset > > spacers down to 1mm and I doubt that any of you really adjust your > > stem in increments of less than a millimeter. An advantage of > > threadless is that you always know by how much you're raising or > > lowering your bars- no measuring required! > > Yeah, but you have to put the bike on the stand, put the bars > somewhere, take the ahead cap then stem off, fool with the spacers and > put it all back together. On the other hand, I can stop in the middle > of a ride, pull out my trusty Park Y allen wrench and move the quill > up and down in a matter of seconds. > > On Dec 24, 10:53 am, Jeremy Till <jeremy.t...@gmail.com> wrote: > > > > > Frankly, i'm a surprised that this topic has brought up so many > > arguments on both sides. I always thought that 1" threaded headsets > > and quill stems were a Rivendell "thing," as integral to the identity > > of the bikes as steel and lugs (excepting the Legolas, of course). I > > wouldn't ask GP to change that. I'm cool with that and appreciate the > > bikes for other reasons, and I know that if i ever own one it'll > > probably have a threaded headset. > > > I'm firmly in the threadless camp (3 bikes, all threadless, 2 even > > with the "illusive" 1" threadless! no, headsets are not impossible to > > find, and most stems come with a shim to make it work), but i'll > > readily admit that my preference is mostly psychosomatic*. I'm a big > > guy, mostly ride fixed gear, and i like the idea of wrenching on a bar/ > > stem that's firmly clamped to the outside of a circular steel steerer > > tube more than one that is literally wedged into place. > > > I do think the "threadless stems make it harder to fine-tune the > > height adjustment" thing isn't as true as many make it out to be. > > Yes, you'll probably want to cut the steerer tube if there's excessive > > length above the stem and yes, you have to take the headset out of > > adjustment to adjust the height of the stem, but they make headset > > spacers down to 1mm and I doubt that any of you really adjust your > > stem in increments of less than a millimeter. An advantage of > > threadless is that you always know by how much you're raising or > > lowering your bars- no measuring required! > > > *It does help to have Jobst reinforcing my > > preference:http://sheldonbrown.com/brandt/threadless-headset.html- Hide > > quoted text - > > - Show quoted text - --~--~---------~--~----~------------~-------~--~----~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~----------~----~----~----~------~----~------~--~---
