Keep it simple. Upgraded my boat's 90 degree ell, using a 3/4" bronze female tee and a screw in bronze plug. To winterize, I close the seacock, remove the plug, insert a 3/4" male pipe to hose adapter, connect the hose from the winterizing system and the engine sucks the antifreeze from a bucket on the cabin floor, through the engine and out the exhaust. The winterizing kit is made from short hoses, a garden hose ball valve, and a washer machine hose. The total hose length is about four or five feet, just long enough to reach into a bucket on the cabin floor and the valve helps thottle the water, when I use the system to run the engine on the hard. I always test run the engne before the travel lift picks me up, to avoid any drama on launch day. I've been using this system for 20 years. Makes it easy to re-winterize an engine if you run the engine during the winter. I rewinterized my engine once after changing marinas, and another time after we went daysailing one warm day in January. Another tip: take a heavy duty (like Rubbermaid), 7 gallon trash can and install a 3/4" male hose bib on one side, near the bottom, and add some stick-on carpet or EVA foam to the bottom. I found metal washers and a lock nut in the electrical deparpment at Home Depot, added one to each side of the hole, sealed with silicone. Use that for any anti-freeze job, or barnacle-buster, or priming the air conditioner pump. It won't scratch the sole or the deck. Add a garden hose shutoff valve for liquids, and change it to a cap if you need to use it as a trash can. Chuck Scheaffer, Resolute 1989 C&C 34R, Annapolis
> On 03/04/2025 11:48 AM EST David Knecht via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote: > > > There was a prior discussion regarding winterizing the engine where someone > described converting the engine raw water seacock into a Tee-fitting so that > antifreeze could be run into the engine to winterize the boat. This would > allow the process without having to remove the hose from the raw water > strainer or the seacock. I can't find that email anywhere so I am wondering > if anyone has notes on how this was done. I presume you would use a > standard brass Tee fitting, adapters (all the ones I have found have female > threads so require an adapter to add to the seacock) and two shutoff levers, > one for each water path. Thanks- Dave > > S/V Aries > 1990 C&C 34+ > New London, CT > Your contributions help pay the fees associated with this list and help to > keep it active. Please help by making a small contribution using PayPal at: > https://www.paypal.com/paypalme/stumurray All contributions are greatly > appreciated. >
Your contributions help pay the fees associated with this list and help to keep it active. Please help by making a small contribution using PayPal at: https://www.paypal.com/paypalme/stumurray All contributions are greatly appreciated.
