I have been experimenting with non-overlapping head sails on my 30-1. A pinstop track was placed inboard and back of the shrouds. I took a guess that a sheeting angle of 8 - 10 degrees was a tight as would work on a heavy boat and a picked a higher clew so that the sheet loads would not be too much. Martin from Somerset Sails recut a main to make a #3 and made a custom blade. Both Dacron, nothing fancy.
The #3 has a soft entry ( a bit rounded ) even with full backstay tension. The blade is flat with a fine entry. The #3 points OK and is forgiving, the blade points very well but needs to be kept in a narrow angle band to perform. There is not much guidance I could find on the internet as to what to expect. Starting about 16 kts true the #3 is the fastest sail on the boat, outperforms the 155% North 3DL, the 155% UK carbon tape drive and the UK #2 for speed. I can point as high as 30 degrees AWA with most of the sails, the #3 likes about 32 degrees AWA. The #3 runs well to around 22 kt with a full main. Around 22 - 25 kts true we add a reef to the main and switch to the blade. I can hold 6.4 kts upwind with the #3, seen 6.7 a few times. Boat feels perfectly balanced, and the #3 and main work well together. Still playing with the trim, best angle for VMG etc. Not as much experience with the blade, 24 kts+ and light waves are not a common combination in the Toronto area. The one time out with around 28 kts the blade and a reefed main gave a perfect sail plan. Just the right amount of power, stayed upright and balanced. Boats with too much sail were heeled way over and sliding off the course, and smaller ( baggy ) sails were giving the skippers poor upwind performance. No conclusions yet on the appropriateness of inboard tracks and non-overlapping sails on the 30-1, but the trials are promising. I am considering getting a custom #3 cut that is as large as possible, maybe in the 102 -104% range, and enough depth to work in the 14+ TWS range. Hopefully the tighter sheeting angle and better matching with the main will overcome the smaller size. Michael Brown Windburn C&C 30-1 Message: 6 Date: Thu, 2 Jan 2014 14:04:28 -0500 From: "Gary Nylander" <gnylan...@atlanticbb.net> To: <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Subject: Re: Stus-List 30MK1 Racing ability Message-ID: <0DC61BD7CA594F10A4005DD134E0600E@GaryPC> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252" For most of your racing, you will use the racing main and the 135 or 155. I seldom use my working jib but we don't get a lot of heavy weather around here. Keep the standard main for practice. You may be trying to flatten it out too much....a genoa will produce a backwind which makes the main look terrible, but that is usual on a 30. You should sheet your 135 and 155's to the track near the winch. My boat didn't have any jib tracks when I got her, and I added a track which starts about a foot behind the shrouds (even with them) and is about 6 feet long. My sheeting point for the 155 is roughly in the middle of the lifeline gate, for my 140+/- it is at the front of the gate. The working jib goes just past the shrouds and I sheet it so that the clew just hits the shrouds. I seldom use it. Many 30's just used snatch blocks on the rail for jib sheets, but you need something inside that, which your track should handle. When reaching, I use various methods to get the jib clew more outboard than my track will allow - I have spinnaker twings (tweakers) ( small blocks in about the middle of the boat on the rail ) which I can use to get the clew back out to the rail. If it is blowing a bit, I have used snatch blocks to the rail - you have to get the clew more outboard or it just becomes big and round and slows the boat down. I have the spinnaker pole and an adjustable whisker pole, but seldom use the whisker - the rules penalize you for anything longer than 13.5 feet (the J measurement) and the spin pole is that long. Also the rules penalize anything bigger than 155%, so the 170 is only good for cruising. If your rules allow larger genoas or longer poles, then you could use the 170 and an extended whisker pole and sail non spinnaker. Check your PHRF rules - one of our groups allows you to sail non-spinnaker with the rest of the fleet and get a 10% handicap adjustment. I don't think that is enough. Our other local group allows non-spinnaker with a 15% adjustment and a cruising chute tacked to the bow with 7.5%. Nobody allows genoas larger than 155% without penalty. My opinion is the 30 would not benefit from having inboard tracks for the small jib. The boat is kind of fat (10 foot beam) and running the jib past the shrouds on the outside gives a sheeting angle of about 10-12 degrees, which is about all it needs. As I don't sail in heavy weather very often (my working jib is still 'krinkly' after 30 years) so I may be wrong - as your previous owner built an adjustable little jib, you may have different conditions. I also only have a single reef, but the boat was built for two - again, I don't seem to need it. If I were you, I would start by sailing non-spinnaker and find a crew and develop your crew work. Then add the spinnaker to the mix. Learning the racing rules and tactics and changing sails and flying the spinnaker is a lot to absorb in a limited time. I don't know where you sail and don't know how many opportunities you have to race, but there is more to learn than there is time for most of us. Find someone who has some experience to help - pick his/her brain to build your skills. Maybe let someone else drive so you can learn the skills that each person on the boat needs to you can coach other crew later. Gary
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