I remember when that article came out. I tried to figure it out, but my jib is too big - it is either inside or out, because that is where the sheet goes. I guess if it were shorter, then inhaulers would work.

Then, the other decision is what to do about downwind.... a jib that small is going nowhere when off the wind, unless it is blowing so hard that you could take it down... I have raced in some breezes where we had the number 2 and 3 rigged - I have a two track tuff luff - and put the 3 on for upwind and then changed at the windward mark, but our courses are rather short, so it was a lot of trouble for very little speed (we were already at or approaching hull speed).

We had a race last year where we had a three mile drag race off the wind - we had the number 2 up and the Bristol 35.5 had his chute and the Bermuda 40 had his genoa. We beat them to the windward mark - the 2 was poled out....they were fighting their sails and losing ground every time something collapsed. There's something for lack of drama and stability.

Gary
----- Original Message ----- From: "Curtis" <cpt.b...@gmail.com>
To: <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Sent: Friday, January 03, 2014 12:47 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List 30MK1 Racing ability


Hey!!! now thaats an Idea


On 1/3/14, Andrew Burton <a.burton.sai...@gmail.com> wrote:
Can you rig an inhauler like the Farr 40s and many other classes do to get
the jib sheeted closer to centerline?
http://www.sailingworld.com/article/Gaining-Extra-Height-With-Inhaulers

Andy
C&C 40
Peregrine

Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett
Newport, RI
USA    02840

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260

On Jan 3, 2014, at 11:36, Curtis <cpt.b...@gmail.com> wrote:

I sheet mine of the toe rail with a block. I would love to bring in
more center to the boat. Oneday I will put a track just behind the
shrouds and next to the cabin house but on the deck and a 6 footer .
Mine is now all the way back next to my main winch.

On 1/3/14, Gary Nylander <gnylan...@atlanticbb.net> wrote:
Keep us in the loop with your results and conclusions.... We don't get
much
heavy weather around here, but the few times we do, it would be very
interesting to have a sail combination which would let the boat perform
like
it should. Is your inboard track on the deck or the side of the cabin?
How
far inboard of the shrouds? How long? I have thought that my number 3
(working jib) might work inside the shrouds, but it is just a little too
big
- it has a high clew which ends up right at the shrouds when sheeted to
my
track which is about three feet behind the shrouds and on the same
plane.

I could cut it down a little and see - but wouldn't spend the money
unless I
was reasonably sure it would work. We don't get enough days with that
much
wind to spend a lot of time experimenting.

Gary




 ----- Original Message -----
 From: Michael Brown
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Sent: Friday, January 03, 2014 10:38 AM
 Subject: Re: Stus-List 30MK1 Racing ability


 I have been experimenting with non-overlapping head sails on my 30-1.
A
pinstop track was
 placed inboard and back of the shrouds. I took a guess that a sheeting
angle of 8 - 10 degrees
 was a tight as would work on a heavy boat and a picked a higher clew so
that the sheet loads
 would not be too much. Martin from Somerset Sails recut a main to make
a
#3 and made a
 custom blade. Both Dacron, nothing fancy.

 The #3 has a soft entry ( a bit rounded ) even with full backstay
tension.
The blade is flat with a fine entry.
 The #3 points OK and is forgiving, the blade points very well but needs
to
be kept in a narrow angle band to perform.

 There is not much guidance I could find on the internet as to what to
expect.

 Starting about 16 kts true the #3 is the fastest sail on the boat,
outperforms the 155% North 3DL,
 the 155% UK carbon tape  drive and the UK #2 for speed. I can point as
high as 30 degrees AWA
 with most of the sails, the #3 likes about 32 degrees AWA. The #3 runs
well to around 22 kt with a
 full main. Around 22 - 25 kts true we add a reef to the main and switch
to
the blade.

 I can hold 6.4 kts upwind with the #3, seen 6.7 a few times. Boat feels
perfectly balanced, and the
 #3 and main work well together. Still playing with the trim, best angle
for VMG etc.

 Not as much experience with the blade, 24 kts+ and light waves are not
a
common combination in
 the Toronto area. The one time out with around 28 kts the blade and a
reefed main gave a perfect
 sail plan. Just the right amount of power, stayed upright and balanced.
Boats with too much sail
 were heeled way over and sliding off the course, and smaller ( baggy )
sails were giving the skippers
 poor upwind performance.

 No conclusions yet on the appropriateness of inboard tracks and
non-overlapping sails on the 30-1,
 but the trials are promising. I am considering getting a custom #3 cut
that is as large as possible,
 maybe in the 102 -104% range, and enough depth to work in the 14+ TWS
range. Hopefully the
 tighter sheeting angle and better matching with the main will overcome
the
smaller size.

 Michael Brown
 Windburn
 C&C 30-1






   Message: 6
   Date: Thu, 2 Jan 2014 14:04:28 -0500
   From: "Gary Nylander" <gnylan...@atlanticbb.net>
   To: <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
   Subject: Re: Stus-List 30MK1 Racing ability
   Message-ID: <0DC61BD7CA594F10A4005DD134E0600E@GaryPC>
   Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252"

   For most of your racing, you will use the racing main and the 135 or
155. I seldom use my working jib but we don't get a lot of heavy weather
around here. Keep the standard main for practice. You may be trying to
flatten it out too much....a genoa will produce a backwind which makes
the
main look terrible, but that is usual on a 30.

   You should sheet your 135 and 155's to the track near the winch. My
boat
didn't have any jib tracks when I got her, and I added a track which
starts
about a foot behind the shrouds (even with them) and is about 6 feet
long.
My sheeting point for the 155 is roughly in the middle of the lifeline
gate,
for my 140+/- it is at the front of the gate. The working jib goes just
past
the shrouds and I sheet it so that the clew just hits the shrouds. I
seldom
use it.

   Many 30's just used snatch blocks on the rail for jib sheets, but you
need something inside that, which your track should handle.

   When reaching, I use various methods to get the jib clew more
outboard
than my track will allow - I have spinnaker twings (tweakers) ( small
blocks
in about the middle of the boat on the rail ) which I can use to get the
clew back out to the rail. If it is blowing a bit, I have used snatch
blocks
to the rail - you have to get the clew more outboard or it just becomes
big
and round and slows the boat down.

   I have the spinnaker pole and an adjustable whisker pole, but seldom
use
the whisker - the rules penalize you for anything longer than 13.5 feet
(the
J measurement) and the spin pole is that long.

   Also the rules penalize anything bigger than 155%, so the 170 is only
good for cruising. If your rules allow larger genoas or longer poles,
then
you could use the 170 and an extended whisker pole and sail non
spinnaker.

   Check your PHRF rules - one of our groups allows you to sail
non-spinnaker with the rest of the fleet and get a 10% handicap
adjustment.
I don't think that is enough. Our other local group allows non-spinnaker
with a 15% adjustment and a cruising chute tacked to the bow with 7.5%.
Nobody allows genoas larger than 155% without penalty.

   My opinion is the 30 would not benefit from having inboard tracks for
the small jib. The boat is kind of fat (10 foot beam) and running the
jib
past the shrouds on the outside gives a sheeting angle of about 10-12
degrees, which is about all it needs. As I don't sail in heavy weather
very
often (my working jib is still 'krinkly' after 30 years)  so I may be
wrong
- as your previous owner built an adjustable little jib, you may have
different conditions.

   I also only have a single reef, but the boat was built for two -
again,
I don't seem to need it.

   If I were you, I would start by sailing non-spinnaker and find a crew
and develop your crew work. Then add the spinnaker to the mix. Learning
the
racing rules and tactics and changing sails and flying the spinnaker is
a
lot to absorb in a limited time. I don't know where you sail and don't
know
how many opportunities you have to race, but there is more to learn than
there is time for most of us. Find someone who has some experience to
help -
pick his/her brain to build your skills. Maybe let someone else drive so
you
can learn the skills that each person on the boat needs to you can coach
other crew later.

   Gary



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--
“Sailors, with their built in sense of order, service and discipline,
should really be running the world.” - Nicholas Monsarrat

_______________________________________________
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
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