I sheet mine of the toe rail with a block. I would love to bring in more center to the boat. Oneday I will put a track just behind the shrouds and next to the cabin house but on the deck and a 6 footer . Mine is now all the way back next to my main winch.
On 1/3/14, Gary Nylander <gnylan...@atlanticbb.net> wrote: > Keep us in the loop with your results and conclusions.... We don't get much > heavy weather around here, but the few times we do, it would be very > interesting to have a sail combination which would let the boat perform like > it should. Is your inboard track on the deck or the side of the cabin? How > far inboard of the shrouds? How long? I have thought that my number 3 > (working jib) might work inside the shrouds, but it is just a little too big > - it has a high clew which ends up right at the shrouds when sheeted to my > track which is about three feet behind the shrouds and on the same plane. > > I could cut it down a little and see - but wouldn't spend the money unless I > was reasonably sure it would work. We don't get enough days with that much > wind to spend a lot of time experimenting. > > Gary > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Michael Brown > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com > Sent: Friday, January 03, 2014 10:38 AM > Subject: Re: Stus-List 30MK1 Racing ability > > > I have been experimenting with non-overlapping head sails on my 30-1. A > pinstop track was > placed inboard and back of the shrouds. I took a guess that a sheeting > angle of 8 - 10 degrees > was a tight as would work on a heavy boat and a picked a higher clew so > that the sheet loads > would not be too much. Martin from Somerset Sails recut a main to make a > #3 and made a > custom blade. Both Dacron, nothing fancy. > > The #3 has a soft entry ( a bit rounded ) even with full backstay tension. > The blade is flat with a fine entry. > The #3 points OK and is forgiving, the blade points very well but needs to > be kept in a narrow angle band to perform. > > There is not much guidance I could find on the internet as to what to > expect. > > Starting about 16 kts true the #3 is the fastest sail on the boat, > outperforms the 155% North 3DL, > the 155% UK carbon tape drive and the UK #2 for speed. I can point as > high as 30 degrees AWA > with most of the sails, the #3 likes about 32 degrees AWA. The #3 runs > well to around 22 kt with a > full main. Around 22 - 25 kts true we add a reef to the main and switch to > the blade. > > I can hold 6.4 kts upwind with the #3, seen 6.7 a few times. Boat feels > perfectly balanced, and the > #3 and main work well together. Still playing with the trim, best angle > for VMG etc. > > Not as much experience with the blade, 24 kts+ and light waves are not a > common combination in > the Toronto area. The one time out with around 28 kts the blade and a > reefed main gave a perfect > sail plan. Just the right amount of power, stayed upright and balanced. > Boats with too much sail > were heeled way over and sliding off the course, and smaller ( baggy ) > sails were giving the skippers > poor upwind performance. > > No conclusions yet on the appropriateness of inboard tracks and > non-overlapping sails on the 30-1, > but the trials are promising. I am considering getting a custom #3 cut > that is as large as possible, > maybe in the 102 -104% range, and enough depth to work in the 14+ TWS > range. Hopefully the > tighter sheeting angle and better matching with the main will overcome the > smaller size. > > Michael Brown > Windburn > C&C 30-1 > > > > > > > Message: 6 > Date: Thu, 2 Jan 2014 14:04:28 -0500 > From: "Gary Nylander" <gnylan...@atlanticbb.net> > To: <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > Subject: Re: Stus-List 30MK1 Racing ability > Message-ID: <0DC61BD7CA594F10A4005DD134E0600E@GaryPC> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252" > > For most of your racing, you will use the racing main and the 135 or > 155. I seldom use my working jib but we don't get a lot of heavy weather > around here. Keep the standard main for practice. You may be trying to > flatten it out too much....a genoa will produce a backwind which makes the > main look terrible, but that is usual on a 30. > > You should sheet your 135 and 155's to the track near the winch. My boat > didn't have any jib tracks when I got her, and I added a track which starts > about a foot behind the shrouds (even with them) and is about 6 feet long. > My sheeting point for the 155 is roughly in the middle of the lifeline gate, > for my 140+/- it is at the front of the gate. The working jib goes just past > the shrouds and I sheet it so that the clew just hits the shrouds. I seldom > use it. > > Many 30's just used snatch blocks on the rail for jib sheets, but you > need something inside that, which your track should handle. > > When reaching, I use various methods to get the jib clew more outboard > than my track will allow - I have spinnaker twings (tweakers) ( small blocks > in about the middle of the boat on the rail ) which I can use to get the > clew back out to the rail. If it is blowing a bit, I have used snatch blocks > to the rail - you have to get the clew more outboard or it just becomes big > and round and slows the boat down. > > I have the spinnaker pole and an adjustable whisker pole, but seldom use > the whisker - the rules penalize you for anything longer than 13.5 feet (the > J measurement) and the spin pole is that long. > > Also the rules penalize anything bigger than 155%, so the 170 is only > good for cruising. If your rules allow larger genoas or longer poles, then > you could use the 170 and an extended whisker pole and sail non spinnaker. > > Check your PHRF rules - one of our groups allows you to sail > non-spinnaker with the rest of the fleet and get a 10% handicap adjustment. > I don't think that is enough. Our other local group allows non-spinnaker > with a 15% adjustment and a cruising chute tacked to the bow with 7.5%. > Nobody allows genoas larger than 155% without penalty. > > My opinion is the 30 would not benefit from having inboard tracks for > the small jib. The boat is kind of fat (10 foot beam) and running the jib > past the shrouds on the outside gives a sheeting angle of about 10-12 > degrees, which is about all it needs. As I don't sail in heavy weather very > often (my working jib is still 'krinkly' after 30 years) so I may be wrong > - as your previous owner built an adjustable little jib, you may have > different conditions. > > I also only have a single reef, but the boat was built for two - again, > I don't seem to need it. > > If I were you, I would start by sailing non-spinnaker and find a crew > and develop your crew work. Then add the spinnaker to the mix. Learning the > racing rules and tactics and changing sails and flying the spinnaker is a > lot to absorb in a limited time. I don't know where you sail and don't know > how many opportunities you have to race, but there is more to learn than > there is time for most of us. Find someone who has some experience to help - > pick his/her brain to build your skills. Maybe let someone else drive so you > can learn the skills that each person on the boat needs to you can coach > other crew later. > > Gary > > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > _______________________________________________ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > -- “Sailors, with their built in sense of order, service and discipline, should really be running the world.” - Nicholas Monsarrat _______________________________________________ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
