Can you rig an inhauler like the Farr 40s and many other classes do to get the 
jib sheeted closer to centerline?
http://www.sailingworld.com/article/Gaining-Extra-Height-With-Inhaulers

Andy
C&C 40
Peregrine

Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett
Newport, RI 
USA    02840

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260

On Jan 3, 2014, at 11:36, Curtis <cpt.b...@gmail.com> wrote:

> I sheet mine of the toe rail with a block. I would love to bring in
> more center to the boat. Oneday I will put a track just behind the
> shrouds and next to the cabin house but on the deck and a 6 footer .
> Mine is now all the way back next to my main winch.
> 
> On 1/3/14, Gary Nylander <gnylan...@atlanticbb.net> wrote:
>> Keep us in the loop with your results and conclusions.... We don't get much
>> heavy weather around here, but the few times we do, it would be very
>> interesting to have a sail combination which would let the boat perform like
>> it should. Is your inboard track on the deck or the side of the cabin? How
>> far inboard of the shrouds? How long? I have thought that my number 3
>> (working jib) might work inside the shrouds, but it is just a little too big
>> - it has a high clew which ends up right at the shrouds when sheeted to my
>> track which is about three feet behind the shrouds and on the same plane.
>> 
>> I could cut it down a little and see - but wouldn't spend the money unless I
>> was reasonably sure it would work. We don't get enough days with that much
>> wind to spend a lot of time experimenting.
>> 
>> Gary
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>  ----- Original Message -----
>>  From: Michael Brown
>>  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>  Sent: Friday, January 03, 2014 10:38 AM
>>  Subject: Re: Stus-List 30MK1 Racing ability
>> 
>> 
>>  I have been experimenting with non-overlapping head sails on my 30-1.  A
>> pinstop track was
>>  placed inboard and back of the shrouds. I took a guess that a sheeting
>> angle of 8 - 10 degrees
>>  was a tight as would work on a heavy boat and a picked a higher clew so
>> that the sheet loads
>>  would not be too much. Martin from Somerset Sails recut a main to make a
>> #3 and made a
>>  custom blade. Both Dacron, nothing fancy.
>> 
>>  The #3 has a soft entry ( a bit rounded ) even with full backstay tension.
>> The blade is flat with a fine entry.
>>  The #3 points OK and is forgiving, the blade points very well but needs to
>> be kept in a narrow angle band to perform.
>> 
>>  There is not much guidance I could find on the internet as to what to
>> expect.
>> 
>>  Starting about 16 kts true the #3 is the fastest sail on the boat,
>> outperforms the 155% North 3DL,
>>  the 155% UK carbon tape  drive and the UK #2 for speed. I can point as
>> high as 30 degrees AWA
>>  with most of the sails, the #3 likes about 32 degrees AWA. The #3 runs
>> well to around 22 kt with a
>>  full main. Around 22 - 25 kts true we add a reef to the main and switch to
>> the blade.
>> 
>>  I can hold 6.4 kts upwind with the #3, seen 6.7 a few times. Boat feels
>> perfectly balanced, and the
>>  #3 and main work well together. Still playing with the trim, best angle
>> for VMG etc.
>> 
>>  Not as much experience with the blade, 24 kts+ and light waves are not a
>> common combination in
>>  the Toronto area. The one time out with around 28 kts the blade and a
>> reefed main gave a perfect
>>  sail plan. Just the right amount of power, stayed upright and balanced.
>> Boats with too much sail
>>  were heeled way over and sliding off the course, and smaller ( baggy )
>> sails were giving the skippers
>>  poor upwind performance.
>> 
>>  No conclusions yet on the appropriateness of inboard tracks and
>> non-overlapping sails on the 30-1,
>>  but the trials are promising. I am considering getting a custom #3 cut
>> that is as large as possible,
>>  maybe in the 102 -104% range, and enough depth to work in the 14+ TWS
>> range. Hopefully the
>>  tighter sheeting angle and better matching with the main will overcome the
>> smaller size.
>> 
>>  Michael Brown
>>  Windburn
>>  C&C 30-1
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>    Message: 6
>>    Date: Thu, 2 Jan 2014 14:04:28 -0500
>>    From: "Gary Nylander" <gnylan...@atlanticbb.net>
>>    To: <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
>>    Subject: Re: Stus-List 30MK1 Racing ability
>>    Message-ID: <0DC61BD7CA594F10A4005DD134E0600E@GaryPC>
>>    Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252"
>> 
>>    For most of your racing, you will use the racing main and the 135 or
>> 155. I seldom use my working jib but we don't get a lot of heavy weather
>> around here. Keep the standard main for practice. You may be trying to
>> flatten it out too much....a genoa will produce a backwind which makes the
>> main look terrible, but that is usual on a 30.
>> 
>>    You should sheet your 135 and 155's to the track near the winch. My boat
>> didn't have any jib tracks when I got her, and I added a track which starts
>> about a foot behind the shrouds (even with them) and is about 6 feet long.
>> My sheeting point for the 155 is roughly in the middle of the lifeline gate,
>> for my 140+/- it is at the front of the gate. The working jib goes just past
>> the shrouds and I sheet it so that the clew just hits the shrouds. I seldom
>> use it.
>> 
>>    Many 30's just used snatch blocks on the rail for jib sheets, but you
>> need something inside that, which your track should handle.
>> 
>>    When reaching, I use various methods to get the jib clew more outboard
>> than my track will allow - I have spinnaker twings (tweakers) ( small blocks
>> in about the middle of the boat on the rail ) which I can use to get the
>> clew back out to the rail. If it is blowing a bit, I have used snatch blocks
>> to the rail - you have to get the clew more outboard or it just becomes big
>> and round and slows the boat down.
>> 
>>    I have the spinnaker pole and an adjustable whisker pole, but seldom use
>> the whisker - the rules penalize you for anything longer than 13.5 feet (the
>> J measurement) and the spin pole is that long.
>> 
>>    Also the rules penalize anything bigger than 155%, so the 170 is only
>> good for cruising. If your rules allow larger genoas or longer poles, then
>> you could use the 170 and an extended whisker pole and sail non spinnaker.
>> 
>>    Check your PHRF rules - one of our groups allows you to sail
>> non-spinnaker with the rest of the fleet and get a 10% handicap adjustment.
>> I don't think that is enough. Our other local group allows non-spinnaker
>> with a 15% adjustment and a cruising chute tacked to the bow with 7.5%.
>> Nobody allows genoas larger than 155% without penalty.
>> 
>>    My opinion is the 30 would not benefit from having inboard tracks for
>> the small jib. The boat is kind of fat (10 foot beam) and running the jib
>> past the shrouds on the outside gives a sheeting angle of about 10-12
>> degrees, which is about all it needs. As I don't sail in heavy weather very
>> often (my working jib is still 'krinkly' after 30 years)  so I may be wrong
>> - as your previous owner built an adjustable little jib, you may have
>> different conditions.
>> 
>>    I also only have a single reef, but the boat was built for two - again,
>> I don't seem to need it.
>> 
>>    If I were you, I would start by sailing non-spinnaker and find a crew
>> and develop your crew work. Then add the spinnaker to the mix. Learning the
>> racing rules and tactics and changing sails and flying the spinnaker is a
>> lot to absorb in a limited time. I don't know where you sail and don't know
>> how many opportunities you have to race, but there is more to learn than
>> there is time for most of us. Find someone who has some experience to help -
>> pick his/her brain to build your skills. Maybe let someone else drive so you
>> can learn the skills that each person on the boat needs to you can coach
>> other crew later.
>> 
>>    Gary
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>> 
>> 
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> 
> -- 
> “Sailors, with their built in sense of order, service and discipline,
> should really be running the world.” - Nicholas Monsarrat
> 
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