Keep us in the loop with your results and conclusions.... We don't get much 
heavy weather around here, but the few times we do, it would be very 
interesting to have a sail combination which would let the boat perform like it 
should. Is your inboard track on the deck or the side of the cabin? How far 
inboard of the shrouds? How long? I have thought that my number 3 (working jib) 
might work inside the shrouds, but it is just a little too big - it has a high 
clew which ends up right at the shrouds when sheeted to my track which is about 
three feet behind the shrouds and on the same plane.

I could cut it down a little and see - but wouldn't spend the money unless I 
was reasonably sure it would work. We don't get enough days with that much wind 
to spend a lot of time experimenting.

Gary




  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Michael Brown 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Sent: Friday, January 03, 2014 10:38 AM
  Subject: Re: Stus-List 30MK1 Racing ability


  I have been experimenting with non-overlapping head sails on my 30-1.  A 
pinstop track was
  placed inboard and back of the shrouds. I took a guess that a sheeting angle 
of 8 - 10 degrees
  was a tight as would work on a heavy boat and a picked a higher clew so that 
the sheet loads
  would not be too much. Martin from Somerset Sails recut a main to make a #3 
and made a
  custom blade. Both Dacron, nothing fancy.

  The #3 has a soft entry ( a bit rounded ) even with full backstay tension. 
The blade is flat with a fine entry.
  The #3 points OK and is forgiving, the blade points very well but needs to be 
kept in a narrow angle band to perform.

  There is not much guidance I could find on the internet as to what to expect.

  Starting about 16 kts true the #3 is the fastest sail on the boat, 
outperforms the 155% North 3DL,
  the 155% UK carbon tape  drive and the UK #2 for speed. I can point as high 
as 30 degrees AWA
  with most of the sails, the #3 likes about 32 degrees AWA. The #3 runs well 
to around 22 kt with a
  full main. Around 22 - 25 kts true we add a reef to the main and switch to 
the blade.

  I can hold 6.4 kts upwind with the #3, seen 6.7 a few times. Boat feels 
perfectly balanced, and the
  #3 and main work well together. Still playing with the trim, best angle for 
VMG etc.

  Not as much experience with the blade, 24 kts+ and light waves are not a 
common combination in
  the Toronto area. The one time out with around 28 kts the blade and a reefed 
main gave a perfect
  sail plan. Just the right amount of power, stayed upright and balanced. Boats 
with too much sail
  were heeled way over and sliding off the course, and smaller ( baggy ) sails 
were giving the skippers
  poor upwind performance.

  No conclusions yet on the appropriateness of inboard tracks and 
non-overlapping sails on the 30-1,
  but the trials are promising. I am considering getting a custom #3 cut that 
is as large as possible,
  maybe in the 102 -104% range, and enough depth to work in the 14+ TWS range. 
Hopefully the
  tighter sheeting angle and better matching with the main will overcome the 
smaller size.

  Michael Brown
  Windburn
  C&C 30-1






    Message: 6 
    Date: Thu, 2 Jan 2014 14:04:28 -0500 
    From: "Gary Nylander" <gnylan...@atlanticbb.net> 
    To: <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
    Subject: Re: Stus-List 30MK1 Racing ability 
    Message-ID: <0DC61BD7CA594F10A4005DD134E0600E@GaryPC> 
    Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252" 

    For most of your racing, you will use the racing main and the 135 or 155. I 
seldom use my working jib but we don't get a lot of heavy weather around here. 
Keep the standard main for practice. You may be trying to flatten it out too 
much....a genoa will produce a backwind which makes the main look terrible, but 
that is usual on a 30. 

    You should sheet your 135 and 155's to the track near the winch. My boat 
didn't have any jib tracks when I got her, and I added a track which starts 
about a foot behind the shrouds (even with them) and is about 6 feet long. My 
sheeting point for the 155 is roughly in the middle of the lifeline gate, for 
my 140+/- it is at the front of the gate. The working jib goes just past the 
shrouds and I sheet it so that the clew just hits the shrouds. I seldom use it. 

    Many 30's just used snatch blocks on the rail for jib sheets, but you need 
something inside that, which your track should handle. 

    When reaching, I use various methods to get the jib clew more outboard than 
my track will allow - I have spinnaker twings (tweakers) ( small blocks in 
about the middle of the boat on the rail ) which I can use to get the clew back 
out to the rail. If it is blowing a bit, I have used snatch blocks to the rail 
- you have to get the clew more outboard or it just becomes big and round and 
slows the boat down. 

    I have the spinnaker pole and an adjustable whisker pole, but seldom use 
the whisker - the rules penalize you for anything longer than 13.5 feet (the J 
measurement) and the spin pole is that long. 

    Also the rules penalize anything bigger than 155%, so the 170 is only good 
for cruising. If your rules allow larger genoas or longer poles, then you could 
use the 170 and an extended whisker pole and sail non spinnaker. 

    Check your PHRF rules - one of our groups allows you to sail non-spinnaker 
with the rest of the fleet and get a 10% handicap adjustment. I don't think 
that is enough. Our other local group allows non-spinnaker with a 15% 
adjustment and a cruising chute tacked to the bow with 7.5%. Nobody allows 
genoas larger than 155% without penalty. 

    My opinion is the 30 would not benefit from having inboard tracks for the 
small jib. The boat is kind of fat (10 foot beam) and running the jib past the 
shrouds on the outside gives a sheeting angle of about 10-12 degrees, which is 
about all it needs. As I don't sail in heavy weather very often (my working jib 
is still 'krinkly' after 30 years)  so I may be wrong - as your previous owner 
built an adjustable little jib, you may have different conditions. 

    I also only have a single reef, but the boat was built for two - again, I 
don't seem to need it. 

    If I were you, I would start by sailing non-spinnaker and find a crew and 
develop your crew work. Then add the spinnaker to the mix. Learning the racing 
rules and tactics and changing sails and flying the spinnaker is a lot to 
absorb in a limited time. I don't know where you sail and don't know how many 
opportunities you have to race, but there is more to learn than there is time 
for most of us. Find someone who has some experience to help - pick his/her 
brain to build your skills. Maybe let someone else drive so you can learn the 
skills that each person on the boat needs to you can coach other crew later. 

    Gary 



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