You’re probably spending $1500 on the blasting and another $1000 or so for the Interprotect, so the total is fairly reasonable. The blasting and Interprotect are an investment – you should never need to do that again.
When the final coat of Interprotect is still soft – dry but not fully cured so you can touch it with a knuckle and leave an impression but it does not stick to your skin – paint it with a good quality of Interlux hard bottom paint. This bonds to the Interprotect and forms the base for your Micron to stick to. I’ve heard the process referred to as “hot coating” the Interprotect. (Bottom paint does not stick very well to fully cured Interprotect.) Use a color for the hard paint that contrasts with the color you intend to use (e.g. red hard coat under blue Micron.). This also becomes a “signal coat” that will let you know when the ablative bottom paint is sloughed off and needs to be painted again. I use Pettit on both my keelboats – Trinidad PRO as a signal coat and Ultra SR (was ACP 60)as the bottom paint. Around here that lasts for 3 to 4 years between hauls for bottom paint. YMMV. In the future you should find that the Micron will mostly be gone when you haul for painting. And then you remove the rest of the ablative paint with a pressure washer at 2000PSI or so, no sanding needed. Then just repaint with new ablative paint. Around here we used to go to the feed and grain store and buy a bottle of antibiotic intended for use with livestock and horses – and add it to the bottom paint at the rate of about 8oz per gallon of paint to inhibit the growth of slime. I don’t even know if that is still possible. In recent years, most everyone I know buys bottom paint that already has a slime prevention mixed in. (Hence the “SR” in the name of the paint I buy. I would highly recommend you buy whatever blend of Micron has the highest copper content, and also has the slime blocker. Then if you use the boat every week or two, and get it up to hull speed, whatever slime does appear will just slip away as you sail. Rick Brass Washington, NC From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ron Kaye Sent: Wednesday, April 17, 2013 12:22 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List New owner wants a nice healthy bottom I just contacted the nearest marina that can haul me and asked them for an estimate. Seems to be in line with what others are saying. $4050 for the 35' boat which includes: 1. Soda blasting 2. 4 barrier coats of 2000e 3. 2 coats Interlux micron bottom paint Which Interlux micron, I didn't ask. Maybe I should. Any thoughts are appreciated. Ron On Apr 17, 2013, at 3:54 PM, "djhaug...@juno.com" <djhaug...@juno.com> wrote: would guys mind sharing the cost of those bottom jobs? ---------- Original Message ---------- From: Joel Aronson <joel.aron...@gmail.com> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Subject: Re: Stus-List New owner wants a nice healthy bottom Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2013 11:07:06 -0400 Ron, Welcome. �I assume you mean the centerboard does not lower all the way? �I've got a keel model. �my main concern would be the condition of the cable. I had Osprey Marine at Herrington Harbor South soda blast,epoxy and paint the bottom of my boat 1 1/2 years ago. �They did 4 coats of epoxy, 2 of paint. 35/3 The Office Annapolis On Wed, Apr 17, 2013 at 10:54 AM, Ron Kaye <ronkaye...@gmail.com> wrote: Yes we are a little late, its time to get moving on this. �We are cruiusers, not racers and work full time - so we have to pay through the nose for this kind of thing. �I do need to know a bit about how best to proceed. Her bottom needs to be stripped, and I've decided to consider the soda blasting for that. �Caked and cracked paint with some painted over cracked off flake areas. �She was surveyed - its just old layers of paint - her hull is sound. So after the soda-blasting what is next for the hull - do I need a new barrier coat at this point? � We will change the bottom color from blue to black and get a new waterline painted. �I would like the paint to last two or more seasons. Primer? �Coats? Also, the keel won't drop past about 80-90%. �Do I need to haul this and put it high enough to drop the keel, or dig a trench under the hull to drop it? �Sand, grind, primer and paint? �Any special pointers for dealing with a sticky keel? �It retracts ok but just doesn't drop all the way. �Not a big deal as we are cruisers not racers, but I would like it to work correctly and, of course, not get stuck. �Please don't tell me to drop the keel unless you really have to tell me that. One last detail will be to paint the new name on her transom. �The previous one is painted on. �Would it be best to sand off the name and repaint the transom? �Hull color is smoke white (original). �Can that be matched with new paint? Finally, if anyone knows a provider in the Rhodes River (just South of Anapolis) area that can do this reasonably and well I'd appreciate any contact info on that. And yes we will do a name change ceremony with champagne sloshed and swallowed appropriately. Thanks to any kind C&C sevants Name to be changed 1986 35/3 -- Ron _______________________________________________ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com -- Joel 301 541 8551 _______________________________________________ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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