David, Do your research. Do your own, thorough, preliminary survey. Look at recent market prices. Look at comparable boats and ask yourself why not this one instead. Look at sail inventory, engine, and drive train. The surveyor will probably not perform a detailed engine/drive train survey. Consider paying for and engine survey too. Look at how long the boat has been on the market. Determine how bad you want the boat. Low ball them 10-20% of what you think a "fair" market price is depending on how bad you want the boat. If they accept then you will get a contract. They will expect ~10% to hold the contract. The contract will prevent the seller from selling out from under you to a higher bidder. During the contract window you can back out at any time up to the closing date. You can't take delivery till the delivery date. Expect about a month from signing to closing and 1-2 weeks after closing for delivery. Everything is negotiable but there is a "norm". During the contract window you have to get a survey, insurance and financing. The bank will need the survey and about 2 weeks to approve the loan.
If the boat is on the hard leave it till the surveyor has done a bottom inspection. You pay for launch. If in the water pay for a haul and block so that the surveyor can survey the bottom. If it is winterized, get all the systems flushed and ready for operation before the survey. If you back out of the contract you will be responsible for all the costs to put the boat back to the "as found" condition (re-winterize and launch/haul). As for the bottom you could negotiate it but you'll probably do just as good or better getting you're local yard to do it. Just have to see. The survey may reveal some things to help negotiate a new bottom. Look specifically for the C&C smile. The fairing compound around the keel to hull joint can crack if the boat was sailed hard. Some people worry about it, some don't. Some people have spent considerable amounts of money and time fighting it, others just smile back. I haven't found one but I would give priority to a surveyor that is willing to so a survey of the standing rigging aloft as well as one that is willing to verify torque on the keel bolts. Some price reminders are as follows: Rudder rebuild = ~$4000 Any single sail = ~$3000 Max Prop = ~$3000 Max Prop rebuild = ~$1000 Transmission = ~$2000 Engine = ~$5000 Full bottom blister repair = ~$8000 Algrip just the hull = ~$8000 Electronics don't really improve the boat's value. Use some of those prices as a guide for how much you may be in for once the boat is yours. After the survey you will have ammo for lowering your price or negotiating repairs. Remember, if the price to value ratio is too far off, the bank won't finance. This is actually a good reason to use financing even if you were planning on paying cash. The bank may keep you from making a bad emotional decision. They did for me. Let the list know how things go. Good Luck, Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C&C 37+ On Tue, Feb 26, 2013 at 6:10 PM, David Knecht <davidakne...@gmail.com>wrote: > I am hoping to return to the C&C family this season. I have a 1990 34+ in > my sights that I will soon have surveyed etc. Does one negotiate the price > and then survey or the other way around? I am relatively inexperienced > with the buying process, so looking for tips/suggestions on how to proceed. > Does one negotiate the price and then survey or the other way around? Can > one find out what similar boats have sold for over the past few years? The > boat is owned by the brokerage as it was taken in trade on a new boat and I > have the impression I can negotiate hard on the price as they want to move > it. Are there any specific issues to look out for with the 34+? Are > there things I can ask them to do as part of the purchase? For instance, > the boat has GPS, but lacks wind/speed instruments. Can installing that be > part of the negotiation or does one just figure that kind of thing into the > ownership cost? They are not a boat yard, but are associated with one > nearby. Also, whose responsibility should it be to get the bottom ready > for the new season? Any suggestions welcome. Thanks- Dave > > David Knecht > 50 Farmstead Rd. > Storrs, CT 06268 > > > > > _______________________________________________ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > > -- Want to email me privately? Check out: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GNU_Privacy_Guard Then get my public key at: https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1yU0R5RHBOS2h3MFk/edit
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