Ok, somebody’s gotta say it… does this mean we’re back to foredeck cows for the winter blues…
>to putting some bushings into the pintles and gudgeons to compensate for years >of wear and herd use..< randy Tamanawas 29-II Hood River, OR From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick Brass Sent: Sunday, November 11, 2012 3:29 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Rudder Re-build/replacement now transom hung I was about to say exactly what Rick said, based on 18 years of experience with my 25 mk1. The rudder for the MK2 might be different, but I have my doubts. I read the Sailing Anarchy thread, and I have to comment that the only contributor who knew anything about the C&C 25 was the Owner – and he didn’t seem to know much. He comments about the weaknesses of the boat, for example commenting on the need to replace the mast step. I actually bent the jib crane at my old club in Philly when unstepping the mast – seems one of my helpers had neglected to pull the pin in the step and the jib crane was trying to pick the whole boat up by the sling around the mast. My 25 is built like a tank. Which is why it is so much heavier than a J/24. I once had a port/starboard collision when I was trying to duck a J/30. The damage to the J was more than twice what I paid for Belle (Heck, the teak toe rail was half the price I paid for the C&C 25.), and all the damage I had was some blue paint that I took off the gelcoat with a 3M scrubby pad. After 37 years, I have a little wiggle in my rudder. One of these days I need to get around to putting some bushings into the pintles and gudgeons to compensate for years of wear and herd use.. There is definitely no flex in the rudder itself. Rick Brass Imzadi -1976 C&C 38 mk1 la Belle Aurore -1975 C&C 25 mk1 Washington, NC
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