The transom-hung rudders are a different discussion altogether, but I learned 
something recently and want to add it to the collective knowledge of the list.

The earlier of the 25 Mk1's came from the factory with laminated wood rudders, 
which is what my '73 hull #79 has.  (Check out some of my previous posts about 
trying to maintain / preserve it.)

I recently salvaged '74 25 hull #301.  What follows is all based on the 
assumption that this boat had its original rudder.  This later rudder 
configuration is probably common to the 24, later 25 Mk1 and 25 Mk2.  27 Mk5 
could be the same, don't know.  After the owner cut off the keel, he removed 
the stands, dropped the boat on its hull, and broke the rudder approximately in 
half.  (I advised him that the used rudder was probably worth at least what he 
got for the lead keel, $0.60/lb, ~1800 lbs.)  

I was surprised to see that the salvaged fiberglass rudder is hollow.  (Hollow 
as in you can stick a broom handle in it and freely move it back and forth.)  
The fiberglass is only about 1/4" thick.  I guess I was expecting thicker 
fiberglass, or foam filled, something like that.  The top half of the rudder is 
hollow to a point, and then the upper third or so appears to be solid.  My 
guess is that it's a laminated wood stub, either painted or glassed over.   

This helps to explain this thread I came across recently about how much the 25 
rudder can flex:

http://forums.sailinganarchy.com/index.php?showtopic=113193

Without a doubt, this rudder is lighter than my laminated wood rudder.  (I've 
had my rudder off 3 out of 6 years I've owned my boat.  I've carried it around 
a lot!)  I
 also find this surprising, since you'd think the weight of a 
transom-hung rudder would be critical to the balance of the boat.

By the way, I took the pieces of broken rudder, thinking they might be useful 
to someone trying to build a mold, etc.  Contact me off list if you're 
interested.  Yours for the cost of shipping, might be cheaper to ship the two 
pieces separately!

Mark

----- Original Message -----
From: Rick Brass <rickbr...@earthlink.net>
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Sat, 20 Oct 2012 04:50:20 -0000 (UTC)
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rudder Re-build/replacement

The rudder stock on my 38 was bent during a hard grounding in a thunderstorm
in 2004. Actually it was OK until TowBoat US pulled me over the shoal
instead of pulling me out the way I had come in. Insurance authorized the
yard to heat and straighten the rudder shaft (BIG Mistake!) and reglass the
top of the rudder after the repair.


Five years later, water had gotten into the top of the rudder and the shaft
broke because of crevice corrosion. I lost the blade. The yard (same one
that did the first bad repair) had a rudder stock off a 38LF that had lost
the skins off the rudder blade. They had purchased a 38LF rudder from C&C
Yachts (in the process discovering that there were two different diameter
rudder stocks on the 38LFs in the 70s) Tartan C&C Yachts can build rudders
for many of the older models at a cost of $3800 according to the website.
Call Alex Avery. Unfortunately they have drawings for the Landfall but not
the 38 mk1 & mk2.

I found 3 sources that had made aftermarket C&C rudders. Competition
Composites in Canada quoted CDN$2900 using the rudder stock I had purchased
(+ $1600 to build a new rudder stock). Phil's Foils are in Canada and make a
lot of racing foils, and quoted CDN$2250 using my rudder stock. Foss Foam in
Florida was $2400 US including shipping, The first two cast foam on the
rudder stock and web, CNC machine the foil, and wrap the foam in
glass/Kevlar/epoxy. I think of it as building from the inside out.

Foss casts two halves of the skin, sandwiches around the stock and web, and
injects foam. Then the joint is reinforced with Kevlar & epoxy. I think of
this as outside in.

There was some discussion I found on the web that the outside in method
might be less durable if water gets into the foam and freezes over the
winter, or if you have a dark colored rudder in warm water and bright sun.
Foss did suggest painting the rudder a light color, but told me all the
things they do to prevent water intrusion and to reinforce the seam against
expansion of the foam.

I went with Foss because of a lower cost, less hassles, and quicker
delivery. So far I'm quite happy with the new rudder.


Rick Brass
Washington, NC




-----Original Message-----
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Alex
Giannelia
Sent: Friday, October 19, 2012 1:56 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Rudder Re-build/replacement

Has anyone on the list replaced or re-built their rudder?

ALEX GIANNELIA

CC 35-II (1974) WILL BE RENAMED
ON THE HARD SINCE NOV. 2006
Toronto Ontario
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