Rick,
Having removed and reinstalled the upper gudgeon in my boat last year, and then
removed the upper gudgeon from the salvage boat this year, I totally agree. If
you got a lot of slop in the gudgeon like I had, and can find the right
thin-walled pastic bushing, you can probably install the bushing with the
gudgeon still on the boat.
Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: Rick Taillieu <rtaill...@eastlink.ca>
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Tue, 13 Nov 2012 23:47:23 -0000 (UTC)
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rudder Re-build/replacement now transom hung
Mark, I had a nylon bushing put in the lower gudgeon a number of years ago.
The upper one was OK at the time and would have been a PITA to take off.The
lower one is still good but the upper one is worn now. The play isn’t too bad
but it is starting to get annoying. Rick TaillieuNemesis'75 C&C 25 #
371Shearwater Yacht ClubHalifax, NS. From: CnC-List
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Mark G
Sent: November-12-12 11:33 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rudder Re-build/replacement now transom hung
Rick,
With a quick look I can't see any evidence of those holes, but they are
probably covered over with crud and bottom paint. I did notice the bottom half
is not entirely hollow. There are a couple strips of plywood stacked on top of
each other running down the middle of the rudder, primary purpose probably to
adhere the halves together. The salvage rudder seems to want to split at the
seam, but of course, it underwent some serious abuse which is why it's broken
in half.
Those holes would allow the rudder the drain when the boat is hauled, but they
would also allow it to fill with water when the boat is launched. That would
take care of the buoyancy issue.
When I sleeved the gudgeons last year, I used flanged bushings. I was trying
to figure out by looking at the wear pattern which gudgeon actually supports
the weight of the rudder, the single upper or the lower double. There was some
wear on most of the faces. I think the upper gudgeon supports my rudder when
the boat is out of the water, but in the water, the rudder floats a bit and may
be restrained by the lower double gudgeon. The fact that the rudder floats,
combined with the slop in the gudgeons, is what lead to the constant clunking.
With the sleeved gudgeons, the clunk is gone. (Now if I can just restrain that
wire inside the mast, I might be able to sleep on my boat!)
Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: Rick Taillieu <rtaill...@eastlink.ca>
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Sun, 11 Nov 2012 21:19:59 -0000 (UTC)
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rudder Re-build/replacement now transom hung
Hi Mark, The 25’s fibreglass rudder is made in 2 halves bonded together.There
is wood laminated in the upper part, ending about 1-1½” below the lower gudgeon
plate, below that it’s hollow.There is a small hole right at the base of the
“L” where the rudder extends forward and one at the very bottom of the
blade.This lets the water drain out when the boat is hauled and it’s very
important to keep them open especially if you are in an area that freezes.The
24’s rudder might be made in the same way, I’m not sure. I might be interested
in a few things off your salvage boat, contact me off list and we’ll talk.
Cheers Rick TaillieuNemesis'75 C&C 25 #371Shearwater Yacht ClubHalifax, NS.
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Mark G
Sent: November-11-12 4:35 PM
To:cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rudder Re-build/replacement now transom hung
The transom-hung rudders are a different discussion altogether, but I learned
something recently and want to add it to the collective knowledge of the list.
The earlier of the 25 Mk1's came from the factory with laminated wood rudders,
which is what my '73 hull #79 has. (Check out some of my previous posts about
trying to maintain / preserve it.)
I recently salvaged '74 25 hull #301. What follows is all based on the
assumption that this boat had its original rudder. This later rudder
configuration is probably common to the 24, later 25 Mk1 and 25 Mk2. 27 Mk5
could be the same, don't know. After the owner cut off the keel, he removed
the stands, dropped the boat on its hull, and broke the rudder approximately in
half. (I advised him that the used rudder was probably worth at least what he
got for the lead keel, $0.60/lb, ~1800 lbs.)
I was surprised to see that the salvaged fiberglass rudder is hollow. (Hollow
as in you can stick a broom handle in it and freely move it back and forth.)
The fiberglass is only about 1/4" thick. I guess I was expecting thicker
fiberglass, or foam filled, something like that. The top half of the rudder is
hollow to a point, and then the upper third or so appears to be solid. My
guess is that it's a laminated wood stub, either painted or glassed over.
This helps to explain this thread I came across recently about how much the 25
rudder can flex:
http://forums.sailinganarchy.com/index.php?showtopic=113193
Without a doubt, this rudder is lighter than my laminated wood rudder. (I've
had my rudder off 3 out of 6 years I've owned my boat. I've carried it around
a lot!) I also find this surprising, since you'd think the weight of a
transom-hung rudder would be critical to the balance of the boat.
By the way, I took the pieces of broken rudder, thinking they might be useful
to someone trying to build a mold, etc. Contact me off list if you're
interested. Yours for the cost of shipping, might be cheaper to ship the two
pieces separately!
MarkNo virus found in this message.
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