osses. Are there site specific conditions driving this that
I'm not understanding?
I've done quite a few GT systems w/ battery backup, so I'm always up for
new ideas though.
Ray
On 11/7/2011 12:15 PM, Larry Crutcher, Starlight Solar Power Systems wrote:
Hi Glen,
That model is
Rewiring the array for higher voltage gives the MPPT more range to play
with, in addition to cutting the wire losses by half.
Sometimes with older modules close to the battery voltage, the
controller will operate the array below max power point, and not really
see any boost.
Ray
On 11/7/2011
He doesn't want battery backup?
Ray
On 11/9/2011 10:33 AM, Joel Davidson wrote:
Wrenches,
After telling my customer to upgrade to an MPPT charge controller
(thanks Ray Walters and John Blittersdorf), he decided to really
optimize his PV array and retire his Trace SW4048 inverter. He h
;ve had to stop more than one journeyman from violating 300.34. I just
tell them the bends should look like the long sweeps in conduit relative
to the diameter of the wire: also purdy.
Aloha,
Ray
On 11/16/2011 10:35 AM, Marco Mangelsdorf wrote:
Some electricians have great fun in making 90
wire will only
encourage low voltage shut downs (<211 @ inverter).
Ray Walters
On 11/16/2011 10:49 PM, William Miller wrote:
Luke:
Maximum inverter output will occur rarely. Most of the time the
inverter(s) will be running at lesser output amps. One approach is to
size wiring for a cer
working for 30 years..." is great for the solar industry as a whole, but
only if it makes sense.
Ray
On 11/17/2011 5:51 PM, jay peltz wrote:
HI Richard,
I'll chime in, although you won't like it.
Dump the system and start over with a new battery less system and a genny as
Was that on the hots or neutral? It's possible that might have been
lightning too. I've heard of lightning using the pump wiring to get to
the very well grounded well water.
Ray
On 11/18/2011 1:47 PM, Nik Ponzio wrote:
I had an off-grid customer report that their huge well pump sur
crawl
around on the roof with a map trying to find every combiner. I think its
the way we need to be moving for safety on all PV systems, it also would
solve your current issue, without relocating all the combiner boxes.
Ray
On 11/21/2011 5:25 PM, Jeff Yago wrote:
Thanks to all who replied with
r, and spread by word of mouth, the good news to their off
grid neighbors.
This type of work is not for the squimish though, and I have had my
share of 4 am worry sessions over some of this work.
Also bill by Time and materials, you never know what you're going to run
into, till you get everyth
a reliable long term connection.
If you want to save money, just buy pre-made MC cables and cut them to
length. You end up with some left over 10 ft peices of wire, but it's
way cheaper than buying the tool.
Ray
On 11/28/2011 12:18 PM, Dave Bell wrote:
Wondering if anyone has ever had any
ing is the actual Power coefficient, which
shows the total power losses from higher temperatures, not just voltage.
The calculation would be similar.
Ray
On 11/29/2011 2:07 PM, Darryl Thayer wrote:
I am on road so I have no texts with me, but the same formula applies
about 0.4% per degree (le
that really the best
number for calculating this? Or is that too extreme a temperature, that
wouldn't occur most of the time?
Now I have to correct that coefficient for my next class..but that's
why I asked for everybody to look it over.
Thanks Everyone,
Ray
On 11/29/201
recycle electronics, I saw a drop off at Best Buy the
other day.
Ray
On 11/30/2011 11:32 AM, Larry Crutcher, Starlight Solar Power Systems
wrote:
Take them to Quartzsite, AZ in January. You'll sell them in a day.
Recycle that junk into cash!
Seriously, we often get calls from desert
is obviously an important calculation. Should I
suggest that my students just use the inverter manufacturers' online
tools, and forget about trying to run this voltage calc themselves?
Thanks,
Ray
On 12/1/2011 6:30 AM, Dave Click wrote:
At an SMA training last year they recommended the fo
might need to be following this thread as well, and tweak
their sizing tools appropriately.
Ray
On 12/1/2011 5:54 PM, Bill Brooks wrote:
Ray,
There is an explanation on the www.solarabcs.org/permitting
<http://www.solarabcs.org/permitting> webpage for the interactive
solar map. The 2%
You can always add a boost transformer from Backwoods Solar, to boost
the VAC slightly (10%) to increase charge amps.
If you look at your peak voltage on that genny, its probably below 145
(should be 170 v peak for 120 v rms )
Ray
On 12/2/2011 8:46 AM, jay peltz wrote:
Hi Howie,
They were
Midnite Solar has powder coated aluminum enclosures that also have the
AFI option that can be added when available later. There also alot
cheaper than some of the other solutions out there.
Ray
On 12/7/2011 6:57 PM, Dave Click wrote:
Marco, the easiest solution may be to just replace it with
.
300.6 Has a lot of good info on corrosion that we in the solar biz
should be all over, as well.
So that's 3 pretty specific code references.
Ray Walters
On 12/13/2011 7:03 PM, b...@midnitesolar.com wrote:
On 12/13/2011 5:47 PM, Dan Fink wrote:
Esteemed Wrenches;
An email question fr
Fronius makes a single phase 1000vdc inverter. The Primo 11.4 now has an
MPP voltage range of 240-800 V, and a maximum input voltage of 1,000V. You
can download the datasheet at:
http://www.fronius.com/en-us/usa/photovoltaics/products/all-products/inverters/fronius-primo/fronius-primo-11-4-1-208-2
eeder that is fed by the
pass through lugs in the existing 200A meter main (which is located at
another building.) The inverter output has a 60A OCPD, so the 200A meter
main bus is not sufficient.
Any suggestions you have would be greatly appreciated!
Thank you,
Sarah Ray
OnSite Energy, Inc.
t.
>> That's another snag we run into.
>>
>>
>> Jason Szumlanski
>> Florida Solar Design Group
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Thu, May 9, 2019 at 2:50 PM Sarah Ray wrote:
>>
>>> Hi Wrenches,
>>>
>>> Does
Some hardware stores carry a high strength double stick foam tape. I've
used a permanent outdoor rated type (3M?)
that won't come off. Just don't let the kids play with it.
This looks like the stuff I used:
http://www.uline.com/Product/Detail/S-10152/3M-VHB-Tapes/3M-5925-VHB-Double-Sided-Fo
Did you look for dead cells? I've seen many L 16 sets (including my
own) only last 4-1/2 years, so that set was already almost done. If she
started mixing new batteries in before, she knew she already had a
problem. Did this system change from 12 v to 24 v? The rule of thumb
for eons (or
The sulfated cell would show an artificially high SQ reading, if she
tried to add acid to it: another bogus trick people try, when their
batteries are going out. You might ask. Customers often have to try
every other trick in the book before admitting they need to pay for new
batteries. (a
I use language like: "you may be eligible; it depends on
interpretation; some people have taken the credit in this case; its not
my business what you claim on your taxes," all followed by Allan's
"check with your accountant, I'm not a licensed CPA"
I feel that its fine to mention the
Hi All;
I know AC coupled systems have been covered before, but I have a new
issue: positive grounding. A customer with an existing 8kw Sunpower
system wants to add backup. He was put off by the high cost the Sunny
Island, so I was steering him towards a single Outback VFX coupled to
just
trician
Solar Design Engineer
303 505-8760
On 7/30/2013 2:59 PM, Ray Walters wrote:
Hi All;
I know AC coupled systems have been covered before, but I have a new
issue: positive grounding. A customer with an existing 8kw Sunpower
system wants to add backup. He was put off by the high cost the
Su
505-8760
On 7/30/2013 5:29 PM, Jay Peltz wrote:
Hi ray
Magnum does have a way to do it
Theirs is a bit different, but all the data is on their web site
Jay
Peltz power
Sent from my iPhone
On Jul 30, 2013, at 4:23 PM, Ray Walters wrote:
The Outback rep got me some good info, and I'm likin
taller,
Licensed Master Electrician
Solar Design Engineer
303 505-8760
On 7/30/2013 11:37 PM, Kelly Keilwitz, Whidbey Sun & Wind wrote:
Ray,
The battery-based inverter in an AC-coupled system should not be
grid-interactive. The grid passes through the BB inverter to the
grid-direct inverter(s).
Corey;
Would you mind sharing what relay didn't work, and which ones did, along
with inverter output current? Since the relays will be running for
hours at inverter rated output, my thinking would be to oversize the
relay by at least a factor of three. I might try Outback's relay/
breaker
Looks like SnapNRack. Get some new bolt and clamp sets before you start
loosening anything. The SS bolts can spall, and the last one we worked
on, we had to replace 1/3 of the hardware. We used anti-seize thread
lubricant and a torque wrench on reinstallation. SnapN Rack seems
pretty decent
Mac;
Is this off grid? The Intimidator is not a high cycle life battery.
I've had trouble finding exact ratings, but its probably in the 250 to
300 cycles at 80% DOD. I'd expect 3 years max in an off grid
application. Also the Intimidators I've seen are actually AGM, not
Gel, but I don'
Ray Walters
CTO, Solarray, Inc
Nabcep Certified PV Installer,
Licensed Master Electrician
Solar Design Engineer
303 505-8760
On 8/3/2013 7:46 PM, Mac Lewis wrote:
Ray,
Yes, this is an off-grid applications. I think you are right, the
battery guy sold him what he had. Pretty pricey battery lesson t
Just to add to the discussion: Maui Electric (MECO) has had the same
policy of denying all battery based systems. My understanding is they
won't even allow simple battery backup systems (no grid tie, so sell back).
PNM (in Alan's backyard) used to require a very expensive and
unnecessary load
These cheapo inverters are nothing new; we've had to sell against them
for over a decade.
Its all about longevity, and how bad life might be with a several week
outage.
Weight is a great, simple place to start. The quality inverters are
transformer based, and weigh much more.
Which one is goin
We use a high lift jack to lift the case up onto a carrier we've made.
Roll them right into the room. We then use the high lift to push them
exactly into place, with a wood brace against the wall. I'm still a HUP
fan fro the cycle life (2100 cycle to 80% DOD) but if the 1500 cycle
batteries are
Hi William;
One thing to consider is that you want to cycle the batteries at least
20% DOD. If you look at the cycle charts for regular Lead acid
batteries, the total KWH you can get from a battery for its lifetime is
fairly equal from around 20% DOD to 80% DOD. (basically you can get
twice
I find its also about the money. If they're expecting a $20k system to
perform like a $100k one, then yes, move on. I agree with Daryl that
you keep a good record by picking your clients.
On the other hand, I have some fairly wealthy customers that don't want
to reduce their loads, and are wil
Hi Kevin;
Which watering system did you find that worked? We've been through a
bunch that were worse than no watering system at all.
R.Ray Walters
CTO, Solarray, Inc
Nabcep Certified PV Installer,
Licensed Master Electrician
Solar Design Engineer
303 505-8760
On 8/16/2013 5:38 PM, Kevin Pegg
st members, this was supposed to be off list.
todd
On Friday, August 16, 2013 8:51pm, toddc...@finestplanet.com said:
"If the customer wants a mega system and is willing to pay for
it, why is it our business to judge them?"
hi ray,
is it judging them? or simply saying:
"i do this
My all time favorite is "the Solar Electric Independent Home Book" by
New England Solar. Its dated at this point, but does the best job I've
seen of conveying the overall design philosophy and life style. Very
simple easy read.
R.Ray Walters
CTO, Solarray, Inc
Nabcep Certified PV Installer,
I have a couple of Outback questions. On my load analysis sheet, I
include 20 w x 24hr/ day for the inverter's no load draw.
In the past I had very poor luck with the search mode on most inverters,
and found that when I adjusted it so that it came on with efficient
lighting, that the no load dr
Full River has better cycle life specs for a sealed battery. We've
gotten good feed back from the field so far.
B&B is another that I've abused and had good luck with. Their cycle
life is lower, but comparable to the Hawker or MK.
R.Ray Walters
CTO, Solarray, Inc
Nabcep Certified PV Installer
On module IV curves, 100 w/m2 is the lowest insolation level usually
listed. It would also depend on the charge controller or inverter being
used. I've seen arrays make power at below 100 w/ m2 if there is enough
array to overcome the operating losses of the electronics.
R.Ray Walters
CTO,
What supplier are folks using for the Ecogen?
R.Ray Walters
CTO, Solarray, Inc
Nabcep Certified PV Installer,
Licensed Master Electrician
Solar Design Engineer
303 505-8760
On 9/15/2013 9:19 AM, Dave Palumbo wrote:
Ecogen it is. Thanks everybody.
Dave Plaumbo
*From:*re-wrenches-boun...@lists
Looks interesting, I've been waiting for Li+ to start making sense on
larger scales.
The cycle life does not appear to be better than a HUP lead acid
battery, despite the claims of "10 times the cycle life of an AGM
battery" I'm confused because in their white paper they also claim: 200
cycle
AM, Howie Michaelson wrote:
Hi Ray,
I have never received compensation for installation time on warranty
replacements. Is this something you commonly get? From whom?
Thanks,
Howie
___
List sponsored by Home Power magazine
List Address: RE-wrenche
Hi Wrenches;
This might be slightly off topic for a solar list, but I'm doing some
flood damage work for my sister in Boulder, who's basement was
completely filled with water last week. We stripped all the sheet rock
and carpets, etc. out, and then had a company come in to dry out the
lumbe
m:* re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org
[mailto:re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org]*On Behalf Of
*Ray Walters
*Sent:* September 19, 2013 9:51 PM
*To:* RE-wrenches
*Subject:* Re: [RE-wrenches] Li-I question
Looks interesting, I've been waiting for Li+ to
Hi Marco;
Article 200.7 specifically prohibits using white wire for anything but
grounded conductors. This came up last year on a large project with an
ungrounded array, that also had white incorrectly specified in the
plans. The appropriate colors would be red for positive, and black for
n
All Cable and probably other companies can add striping and marking to
any wire you need.
R.Ray Walters
CTO, Solarray, Inc
Nabcep Certified PV Installer,
Licensed Master Electrician
Solar Design Engineer
303 505-8760
On 9/23/2013 10:57 PM, d...@energysolarnow.com wrote:
Marco- You should not tr
ng the conductor polarity with tape, wouldn't
that fall foul of the NEC rule that only allows wire colouring on
conductors larger than #6?
On Tue, Sep 24, 2013 at 2:17 AM, Ray Walters <mailto:r...@solarray.com>> wrote:
All Cable and probably other companies can add striping
I just did one with 32 tooth/ in. jig saw, then filed it to clean the
edges. Came out decent, but took about 20 minutes.
I would tape over as well to avoid scratches.
I know they make punches, but they're stupid expensive, and easy to
break the corners off.
R.Ray Walters
CTO, Solarray, Inc
Na
We did a charging station for a Chevy Volt earlier this year. We
actually ran the charger for about a week to come up with the design,
based on their mileage ,etc. This also accounted for battery and
inverter losses. We added about a 3400 w array (off grid) and they
drove about 40 miles round
On Sep 15, 2013, at 8:56 PM, Ray Walters <mailto:r...@solarray.com>> wrote:
What supplier are folks using for the Ecogen?
R.Ray Walters
CTO, Solarray, Inc
Nabcep Certified PV Installer,
Licensed Master Electrician
Solar Design Engineer
303 505-8760
:05pm, "Ray Walters"
said:
We did a charging station for a Chevy Volt earlier this year. We
actually ran the charger for about a week to come up with the design,
based on their mileage ,etc. This also accounted for battery and
inverter losses. We added about a 3400 w array (off
If its a Rinai, I measured one once that was 30 watts AC standby, and
jumped a bit higher when firing. It also needed pure sine.
The customer swapped it for a regular hot water tank.
Some Bosches and old Palomas, etc. had either a piezo ignition or pilot,
but took no power.
I'm working on a sy
3rd option would be to have a separate charger (IOTA) that just runs
from the generator. No pass through loads to the generator.
4th option would be to use a larger Kohler for backup. My experience is
that even if they don't think they'll need it, they eventually will
actually use it. Large
11 AM, Larry Crutcher, Starlight Solar Power Systems wrote:
William, Chris, Ray, Allan, et al.
Gen support would be ideal but this inverter setup will be a quad pack of
Magnum 4024PAE (120/240 split; 16kW). Their New MSH inverter is single phase
only and can not be stacked.
While disabling l
4-1112 office 780-2738 cell*
_www.positiveenergysolar.com_ <http://www.positiveenergysolar.com/>
On 10/1/2013 9:16 AM, Ray Walters wrote:
Sounds like they need a 20 Kw Kohler. Hot Tub in the future? They'll
love their Kohler. The Generac is just way too small to even
consider IMHO.
R.Ray Walters
CTO, Solar
alters
CTO, Solarray, Inc
Nabcep Certified PV Installer,
Licensed Master Electrician
Solar Design Engineer
303 505-8760
On 10/2/2013 9:48 AM, Larry Crutcher, Starlight Solar Power Systems wrote:
Ray,
I heard back from Kohler and they told me that the 20kW has no warranty if used
off grid. They have 3
That's too many separate poles, they get to be a real hassle at more
than two (and costly too). I'd go to a multipole mount arrangement,
(here's
one:http://www.dpwsolar.com/index.php/applications/commercial/9-commercial/17-multi-pole-mounts-g2-mpm-g2
and then all your cabling won't have to jum
How is TEK 90 referenced in the NEC? Does it meet the qualifications to
be used inside an attic for instance?
Finally the onestopbuy link was very light on info; are the cables
inside stranded or solid?
Thanks,
R.Ray Walters
CTO, Solarray, Inc
Nabcep Certified PV Installer,
Licensed Master El
HI William;
I think you might have a problem. Looking at Enphase's ratings, the
M190 has an output rating of 800mA, while the M250 has an output rating
of 1.0 A. 10 M250s = 10 amps, 9 M190s = 7.2 amps
17.2 amps exceeds 80% of your 20 amp breaker.
I know this won't actually happen, but my und
I just ran into this on a new Dasol 12 v module. I ended up wiring with
USE but couldn't do the series connections. I had to bring each module
wire into a J Box. I'm now using Kyocera, as that was a PITA. Since
your project is low amperage, have you considered smaller USE like 12 or
14 GA?
Just to add to Phil's comments: I've been calculating total life cost
of battery storage (KWH x cycle life x %DOD) and the costs are 15 to
35 cents/ KWH to cycle a battery. Its even higher for sealed batteries
and Li+. It would have to be an amazing cost difference in the TOU
rates to beat
Not familiar with a Whisper, but here's troubleshooting guide for Bergey
with a short. Does it have a rectifier? That could be burned out.
R.Ray Walters
CTO, Solarray, Inc
Nabcep Certified PV Installer,
Licensed Master Electrician
Solar Design Engineer
303 505-8760
On 10/14/2013 8:55 PM, All
While the problems seem related, I'm guessing the gen set issue is a low
coolant or low oil condition. The generator has sensors that shut it
down if they don't see fluid (coolant, or oil) after a few seconds. The
symptoms fit that.
For the inverter, it is either fried or has some programming
/I issue this pre disclaimer, as I don't have references to back all my
following statements up. Bill B. is very right about references./
My "Understanding" is that if a UL listed wire, cable, or device has a
voltage rating and that volt rating just says 600 V, then it applies to
both AC and D
Hi Jesse;
Midnite's breaker boxes would solve your disconnect issue, but I
wouldn't use the baby box or Quad box, they're small and tight. I'd
actually consider their 6 position combiner box, even though its outdoor
rated. Another option would be the Mini DC box.
Here's my quick, real man's
Larry's advise is good for us pros, but I find many customers get mixed
up and have a harder time properly programming today's MPPT
controllers. If the programming gets messed up, much worse things can
happen, and its hard to troubleshoot over the phone.
I just advise they turn some of the sub
I just looked into it. Yes there are other options, but none are even
close to the price point of the Iota. They are also super simple to
setup, get the new IQ4 option.
The only downside to the Iota, is they aren't that conducive to a NEC
install; you got to live with some exposed cabling, un
We just did one, and I used some fairly
short Timberlok type lags (thinner and stronger) I wasn't super
excited about only having an inch of wood to grab, but the edge
wood is stronger and denser than regular 2x material it seemed.
I predrilled the holes, and g
We've made up mounting brackets with
unistrut for this purpose as well. We just bend their regular 45
deg angle brackets to match the roof tilt. It's a bit of work
though, so we are going to other solutions like the Soladek, or
just putting the combiner box in a
I've always found much of BIPV using
amorphous technology to be somewhat less safe. Ever see the
Unisolar BIPV setup, with all the parallel connections made loose
in the attic? Yuk.
R.Ray Walters
CTO, Solarray, Inc
Nabcep Certified PV Installer,
Licensed Master
Where are you buying them from? I am so ready to move away from plastic
zip ties. 59 cents is quite a bit, but that's actually doable. Last
time I looked at SS ties, they were a couple bucks each.
Thanks,
R.Ray Walters
CTO, Solarray, Inc
Nabcep Certified PV Installer,
Licensed Master Electr
of strong opinion, and
we are
far from standardization and an accepted set of best practices.
Jason Szumlanski
Fafco Solar
On Thu, Nov 14, 2013 at 1:03 PM, Kirpal Khalsa
wrote:
Augustthank youyou are right they are actually a Heyco
productmy bad!!! Ray, we recently g
I definitely think cable tray is a good compromise between conduit and
loose zip tie wiring; I primarily question rodent protection.
Even cable trays can go horribly wrong: I've seen them not supported
properly and bend or even fall over spilling cables onto the roof or ground.
R.Ray Walters
C
I thought the relays on the SWs were sealed, so visible arcing sounds
bad. Are you sure its not a loose connection?
Also on the batteries, anytime I've ever seen someone replace just a
couple of cells in a bank that old, it never ended well. It was like
that gopher stomping game, and you hit o
o perform well under load testing, totally crash,
less than 6 months later.
R.Ray Walters
CTO, Solarray, Inc
Nabcep Certified PV Installer,
Licensed Master Electrician
Solar Design Engineer
303 505-8760
On 11/18/2013 6:31 PM, Allan Sindelar wrote:
Ray,
Yes, I know...
Doesn't ten yea
My take on 250.110, is that you could run separate EGCs from either end
to bond the metal J boxes, and not have the EGC run the entire length
through the PVC.
Option 2: attach a Bobcat to one end of the PVC and rip it out of the
ground, then use the freshly made trench to reinstall what the
in
PDF was pretty decent for searching and copying quotes. Never tried the
E book.
My electrical supply house had a great deal on the book before with a
free download of the PDF version. I'm about to ging hunting up the best
deal on the 2014 Handbook. Any leads?
R.Ray Walters
CTO, Solarray, In
Leave it to Windy to be about a generation ahead of the rest of us on
all things RE once again. Cheers to Windy:-)
I still own a Battery Weld 2000 from the 90s, which is a MIG machine
that runs on 24 v dc. The limit is the battery. It can blast at over
200 amps, if you have enough battery t
First, Outback does have a solution: the Flexnet and Mate 3 stuff;
Outback's stuff is pricey though. They're also a mess to wire IMHO.
Here's 2 others to consider: Pentametric from Bogart Engineering, and
Midnite Solar.
Midnite Solar's monitoring is free when you buy their controllers. They
al
rends
(battery voltage, SOC, battery currents etc) over time? I like to show
people that they are using more power than they think.
Thanks
On Thu, Dec 5, 2013 at 6:30 PM, Ray Walters <mailto:r...@solarray.com>> wrote:
First, Outback does have a solution: the Flexnet and Mate 3 stuff;
e Sky Controllers, to more accurately
reach full state of charge.
R.Ray Walters
CTO, Solarray, Inc
Nabcep Certified PV Installer,
Licensed Master Electrician
Solar Design Engineer
303 505-8760
Hi Ray !
The Whizbang Junior works for ending amps, too, on the Classic controller.
Just for folks
Hi William;
My now apparently orphaned copy of Maui Solar Software has Pacific
Chloride Brand batteries listed in its data base that are industrial
flooded lead acid batteries. They have very similar performance
parameters as other fork lift batteries like the HUP. I don't have cycle
life i
I've found that instead of insulting them, I just let them talk about it
for a while. Then usually they mention what a pain it is, and how
unreliable, and then I gently point to the various potential fire
hazards, and that even though 12 vdc can't electrocute you, it sure can
start fires
I
Hi;
I was just doing some cost comparisons of different batteries for a
customer. I found that on Rolls website, they've apparently upgrade
their cycle life of the S5000 series to 2100 cycles (or more) at 80%
DOD. It has been 1500 cycles at 80% DOD for quite a while, so:
Question 1, what new
rtified PV Installer,
Licensed Master Electrician
Solar Design Engineer
303 505-8760
On 12/18/2013 3:37 PM, Larry Crutcher, Starlight Solar Power Systems wrote:
Ray,
To question 2: I find Rolls batteries to be outstanding. Our oldest banks are
over ten years now and trouble free. I can say the
You can waste lots of time trying to save an already dieing set of
batteries, or just cut to the chase and install a new set. L16s are not
a long life battery. While some folks can baby them and get 10 years,
I've seen failures at less than 5 years. Compare cycle life; most L16s
are only 600
I agree with Allan and Dan, and would also add that modeling the
performance in some type of software would also be important.
Both PV Design Pro (now apparently obsolete) and HOMER allow you to set
on and off set points based on SOC. You can literally see how the
battery is cycled to predict i
I'll chime back in on a few points:
To MPPT or not: It all gets down to the budget: I find the tipping
point to be around 250 to 400 watts. My small systems usually don't
have MPPT, and as soon as I get into more than a pair of modules, I'm
using the cheaper 60 cell modules with MPPT.
I like
ep Certified PV Installer,
Licensed Master Electrician
Solar Design Engineer
303 505-8760
On 12/31/2013 1:43 PM, Exeltech wrote:
Hey Mr. Ray ...
Aren't you just a gluttony of good info! You're darned handy to have around.
I wasn't aware of the Midnite unit. I'll have to scope
I finally found a cycle life chart on these: they're rated at 1200
cycles to 80% DOD, and about 2000 cycles @40% DOD.
In an "average" off grid system at 12 years old, I'd say they're near
the end of their life. In a back up setup, who knows.
I've tested systems like this before, I basically turn
Hi William;
I haven't seen any standard really. I noticed that HUPs switched
from 5/16" hardware to 1/4". I'm old school like you, and prefer
5/16" hardware, however I think if you look at the lbs of
compression that the 1/4" bolt can provide, it's still
Bergey is the only reliable choice I'm
aware of right now. They have the XL.1 1000 watt, and I believe
it jumps to the 10 kw unit.
The 1 Kw units are now using Midnite Controllers, which is
definitely an improvement.
I can't advise on adapting to the tower
Also consider the large industrial batteries such as the Trojan
Industrial 2 v models, HUPs, IBE, etc.
They have longer cycle life, and therefore are a better deal in the long
run. Batteries are the weak link in off grid systems, so you want to
really make sure you're getting the right battery,
On these small projects, its very important to nail down the exact load,
to keep the pricing sane. I list on the estimate what the system is
designed to do; for instance 18 w load 24 hrs/ day. Then if something
goes wrong and they are running more than they should you just gently
point out tha
ore in 5
years.
R.Ray Walters
CTO, Solarray, Inc
Nabcep Certified PV Installer,
Licensed Master Electrician
Solar Design Engineer
303 505-8760
On 1/21/2014 10:26 AM, Dan Fink wrote:
I also see lots of "load creep" Ray"oh, forgot to tell youwe
need to add some all-night LED a
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