Hello all,
I'm new here and will introduce myself properly soon, but for now I'm
enjoying these sailing clips people are posting.
Here is one of my favorite films -- from the classic days of sail:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qhkcF0OLzWM
Jim Hesketh
C&C 26 Whisper
Miami, FL
__
Been reading these responses and will add my experience to the discussion.
I have a C&C 26, which is lighter than most of the boats mentioned in this
thread
so it doesn't carry as far, which makes my situation a bit easier. My slip
faces north at a marina in Miami, FL and we usually have an ENE wi
Richard,
One of the best rigging shops in the U.S. is in Miami, give them a call.
They may have an idea what suppliers C&C used for spars over the years, or
may even know what part asking about.
sailingservices.com
Jim Hesketh
Miami, FL
C&C 26 -- Whisper
> J need help identifying a piece of p
Doug Welch wrote:
>
> My throttle cable is getting pretty sticky. Can anyone point me to the
> correct replacement?
>
> TIA,
> Doug
>
If it's just getting sticky and is not fraying perhaps some lubricant may
help:
https://www.amazon.com/Protect-All-Cable-Life-Motorcycles/dp/B0022UOYTE
Jim
C&C
I had a boat for sale in the mid-'90s and was contacted by one of these
"brokers." I gave them the go-ahead to list it, but never got any hits.
This post raised my curiosity so I did a Google search using the boat's
name -- I see it's still listed as for sale on the site.
Nothing ever dies on the
Help! Lost the feeder on headfoil off the mark iii harken furler Sunday
> after a race. Part # 962. Can't find a dealer who stocks. Not pre
> feeder, but part that goes on extrusion. Several emails out to dealers.
> Bill Walker
> CnC 36
> Pentwater, Mi.
>
> Bill Walker
>
Give these guys a call:
I've got a '78 C&C 26, which is a perfect boat for my needs. We're the 3rd
owners and it had been well maintained, and I can't imagine any other boat
I'd choose over Whisper for the type of sailing I'm doing these days. But
it seems the mast step is failing and I'm wondering if anyone here has
deal
Randy wrote:
> Yes, I stand corrected. https://en.wikipedia.org/
> wiki/Frying_Pan_Shoals_Light. "The light tower is modeled after a steel
> oil drilling platform”.
>
Here's a short video about the tower. It's now privately owned and
available for B&B stays while being renovated by a team of vo
Chris,
I've had a '78 26 for 4 years now and it is the perfect boat for my current
needs. We are the 3rd owner and it was well maintained throughout its life
here in Miami where it gets year-round use in the heat and humidity of
South Florida.
When we first got it I had to replace the head on the
med
> very low (16.73) and capsize ratio quite high at 2.31. Have you been happy
> with her handling thus far?
>
>
> Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone <https://yho.com/footer0>
>
>
> On Monday, September 24, 2018, 8:31 AM, James Hesketh via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-li
1978 C&C 26 -- Whisper
Owned 4 years -- 3rd owner (in a partnership with 2 others)
Jim Hesketh
Coconut Grove, Fl
___
Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and
every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support
Addendum -- I've been sailing 38 years.
On Fri, Oct 5, 2018 at 4:28 PM James Hesketh wrote:
>
> 1978 C&C 26 -- Whisper
>
> Owned 4 years -- 3rd owner (in a partnership with 2 others)
>
> Jim Hesketh
> Coconut Grove, Fl
>
___
Thanks everyone for suppor
I’d like to start compiling a database of C&C Owners. When you have a
>> moment, please respond to this email (either to the whole list or by direct
>> email to me) with the following information:
>>
>> Name / Boat name / C&C Model / C&C Year / Sail number / Email Address /
>> Home Port
>>
>
Jim He
I'm getting ready to pull the toe rail on my '78 26 to reseal, and will
also do the same with the bow fitting once the rails are refitted and I can
tie off the headsail halyard to it.
Anyone have any words of wisdom before I begin?
TIA
Jim Hesketh
Whisper C&C 26
Miami, FL
t;> result in a leak) while the person below tightens the nut a bit. Be careful
>> not to overtighten the nut because you can squeeze all of the butyl out of
>> the joint.
>>
>>
>>
>> Rick Brass
>>
>> Imzadi C&C 38 mk2 #47
>>
>> la B
est (I found on a 30-1 if you take the shelves off in
> the Vee berth area, it is a lot easier). Put it back on – much easier and
> no leaks. I doubt you would need the 5200.
>
>
>
> Gary
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List *On Behalf Of *James
> Hesketh via CnC-List
> *Sent
Getting ready to paint the decks, cabin and cockpit on my 26.
I've done most of the prep -- deck-core repair in a few places, resealed
the toe-rail and hatches, removed all hardware, etc. But I want to hire
someone for the final sanding and painting, and have been looking for a
good painter.
One
;
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> On Sat, Nov 30, 2019 at 6:58 AM James Hesketh via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Getting ready to paint the decks, cabin and cockpit on my 26.
>>
>> I've done most of the prep
I've had some recent computer issues and lost most of my bookmarks. I'd
saved info on the 3M tape and specific calk recommended for window
replacement; that got lost.
Could someone please re-post the 3M products and any how-to links
available?
TIA
Jim Hesketh
Whisper -- '78 C&C 26
Miami, FL
Ray Wrote:
>
> Ok everyone. I am stepping up and finally going to replace my windows. I
> am open to any information or suggestions. I was thinking of replacing
> them with aluminum frame windows. Any thoughts or guidance with this
> project. All input is appreciated.
>
>
Ray, I'm in the proce
Not very many MOB stories are funny; but I still chuckle at this one.
I began sailing in 1980 while hitchhiking through the Florida Keys. There
was a large group of water-hippies who’d mostly chosen home-built plywood
trimarans as their vessels of choice; I fell in with them.
One of my first sail
Just received an email from my Marina in Miami
Yesterday some idiots sent out a mass email inviting boaters to a raft-up
at a sandbar for today.
The Mayor saw this and issued an order to close all boating activities for
pleasure boaters.
All Marinas are closed -- boat owners will be allowed to c
Hope all these precautions bring happy results for us all
I've been using blue painter's tape, but it will eventually let water
through if it gets wet enough.
Duct tape keeps the water out, but I need to take it up and replace it
every couple days. I've got the first 2 coats of 3 down and want to
Chuck S wrote:
> Clear 3M Heavy Duty Mailing Tape works great to seal holes from rain. The
> sun's UVs will breaking down after several months, but it is my go-to tape
> for temporary hole covers as it leaves very little residue.
>
Thanks for that suggestion Chuck, I'll try it this week.
Jim He
All marinas in Miami have been shut down for more that a week now. I'm
allowed to check on my boat but cannot do any work. Yet, the marina finally
began a couple months ago to repair the three piers that have been closed
since Hurricane Irma more that two-and one-half-years ago. Those workers
are s
Charlie wrote:
> I need some ideas from the list on holding small aluminum framed screens
> in place below the Lewmar #20 hatches in my C&C 36XL. The original Velcro
> was a PITA to use and kind of ‘clunky’ with the fabric screen and it’s sewn
> on Velcro.
>
>
>
Could you glue 4 small magnets unde
James,
Just did this on my 26' -- had to repair four small areas of soft deck, and
removed all hardware for re-bedding, along with resealing along the toe
rail and replacing side windows. All that in preparation for painting deck,
cabin and cockpit.
My job got stopped in the middle of March with
Ron wrote:
> What kind of tape do you use to keep the holes dry, especially for a genoa
> track? I need to pull the leaking tracks and attend to a soft spot where
> one boards at midship.
>
I'm using 2" blue painters tape -- it's not waterproof, but it works in
areas where the water doesn't pool
Might just be easiest to wrap that section of foam in a large plastic
garbage bag and put it back into the cover that way.
Jim Hesketh
C&C 26 Whisper
Miami, Fl
___
Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and
every one is
David wrote:
> I have seen mention of helicoils several times on this list but I have no
> experience with them.
>
>
I believe Helicoil may have been the original for this type of repair, but
many people in my motorcycle circle prefer another brand called Time-Sert.
I've only used the Time-Sert a
I've just recently been offered a 5hp (with clutch) short-shaft British
Seagull.
The price is right -- free -- but, but, but, ???
Jim Hesketh
C&C 26 Whisper
Miami, FL
___
Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and
ever
> I don't agree, at least here in the U.S. that premium gas doesn't have
> ethanol in it. There are, however, gas stations that have a pump
> reserved for non-ethanol gas.
>
In Miami many stations offer non-ethanol gas, usually called "Recreational
Grade."
It used to be that only marinas sold
Dennis,
If it has the 4-hole, 4-inch base mounts for the bow pulpit I could use 2
of them (but only NEED 1). If it's possible to grab them I'd be forever
grateful and can get funds to you as soon as you give me the how-and-where.
Jim Hesketh
C&C 26 Whisper
Miami, FL
On Tue, Jun 30, 2020 at 7:24
Randy wrote:
> So far we’ve got:
>
> Youngest: Luke Wolbrink, age 35
> Wisest: Doug Robinson, age 86
>
> I’m in that range, 56. Neither young nor wise :)
>
> Good to see some young people here - way to go guys.
>
These ages parallel the informal surveys from various motorcycle groups I
belong t
Dennis,
Thank you very much for following through with this for me.
I probably end up using the new China-cast smaller ones, but it was worth
checking out.
Thanks again, stay safe.
Jim
On Wed, Jul 15, 2020 at 12:01 PM Dennis C. via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> I stopped in South
Laserandy wrote:
> We are working on setting up our newly acquired 32 for cruising and want
> to get an oven (we have the two burner Origo stove, but want the oven as
> well) and don’t particularly want to install propane.
>
> Any chance anyone here has a stove oven combo they’d be willing to pa
ALAN wrote:
> If you use someone to hoist you up the mast, tie the halyard to you or to
> your climbing gear, rather than using the shackle that's on the halyard.
> Don't let anyone stand under you while you're going up or while you're at
> the top, just in case you drop something. A friend of m
Next week's project is the repair/replacement of the mast step on my 1978
C&C 26.
It looks to be a fairly straightforward job, and I have a rigger lined up
to help with loosening and re-tuning the mast afterwards.
Has anyone here done this themselves -- any insight, advice, other things
to look f
Thanks for the reply Neil
My 26 is a bit more complicated -- the mast itself is stepped on the cabin
top with a king post extending down to the support in the bilge, It's the
support that has failed. I'm referring to that support as the mast step in
this case as it is where the load is concentrate
>> Note the marks denoting locations. The top of the epoxy glass block can
>> be seen between the step box and the lip of the sole.
>>
>> Pretty much a brute force solution. That block of epoxy glass will last
>> millenia.
>>
>> Dennis C.
>>
Bruce wrote:
> As for the tool at West Marine, I was asking so that I could do the work
> myself not so much to save money, but simply to do the work myself if
> reasonably easy. I've not had particularly good luck relying on the skill
> of others.
>
> All opinions are always welcome!
>
Looks li
I believe PYI keeps a data base of most boat/motor combinations and can
advise you on what setting to use. Give them a shout see what they
recommend.
Chuck Saur wrote:
> I have a MaxProp classic, and a Universal 35 on Daydream. The prop pitch
> appears very shallow, and when motoring, seems to b
My 26 is deck stepped; just had to replace the support in the bilge for the
King Post.
Jim Hesketh
Whisper
Miami, FL
___
Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and
every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to suppo
Joe wrote:
> AFAIK dyneema is no longer legal for lifeline use. I used bare stainless.
>
Question:
Joe is saying Dyneema is not legal for lifelines, and someone earlier
stated vinyl covered stainless were no longer allowed (or some wording like
that).
Who is making these rules? Is it racing re
Typically it is the race associations but other associations such as ABYC
> set standards too. Oddly enough there is little to ensure that the updated
> standards are continually met for the recreational cruiser. Periodic
> insurance surveys or race inspections are about the only thing that would
On Mon, May 13, 2019 at 7:15 AM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> Dyneema was banned not because of strength issues, but because of issues
> with being compromised or cut all the way through by chafe.
>
> Thank you Joe
___
David wrote:
> I need to replace my mast grounding wire with 4 AWG (according to my
> surveyor). It appears to connect at one end to the aluminum base plate of
> the mast and that nut is accessible and a new cable can be attached with a
> lug. I have not yet found the other end. Could it be unde
Wish I'd seen this earlier, just got home from working on my '78 26.
Mine does have a fitting and cover.
I'll make sure to go by tomorrow and take a few pics.
I've been doing a lot of "40-year maintenance" this past year and if you
have any questions feel free to contact me.
305-761-8098
Jim Hes
Dennis wrote:
> Bottom line, if you think refurbishing/rebuilding a boat is work, try
> restoring a flooded house while you're still living in it. I haven't seen
> Touche' in weeks.
>
Sorry to read of your missfortune -- but it reminded me of some quip I saw
somewhere:
"A house is nothing but
Good luck with your boat!
I recently resealed my forehatch (replaced the lens also) using Dow 795
calk and believe it'll be a long-time cure from what I've seen, read and
heard of it.
Jim Hesketh
Whisper C&C 26
Miami, FL
On Sun, Aug 22, 2021 at 10:35 AM David Knecht via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-l
On a motorcycle trip to The Cabot Trail on Cape Breton, Nova Scotia in the
late '90s, I was thrilled to see Farley's boat -- Happy Adventure -- AKA
The Boat Who Wouldn't Float. She was sitting on the hard, badly shored up
with a broken back, as a tourist attraction outside a restaurant.
Here's a
CHARLES SCHEAFFER wrote:
Curious if anyone else tried this?
>
> >> snip <<
>
> My plan is to install threaded inserts into the outside handrails and use
> stainless 10-24 screws from the inside ones to hold them together. My plan
> is to bung the outer handrails and leave out bungs on the inner s
My boat is a ’78 C&C 26. It’s a Florida boat and has spent all its life
year round in salt water. I’ve had her for a few years now and I found the
infamous “Smile” when I hauled out yesterday and have a few questions about
re-torquing the bolts. After sanding in prep for paint I can see previous
sm
> Bill Coleman
> Entrada, Erie PA
>
> On Tue, Nov 1, 2022 at 3:51 PM James Hesketh via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> My boat is a ’78 C&C 26. It’s a Florida boat and has spent all its life
>> year round in salt water. I’ve had her for a
A friend showed me a trick for storing tools on board. Work some oil into
wool socks -- doesn't have to be much -- and it'll keep tools inside from
rusting. I use separate socks for sockets and ratchets, screwdrivers,
wrenches, etc, etc and almost never get even a hint of surface rust.
Jim Hesketh
I've had good experience and great service with Hatch Masters
https://hatchmasters.com/
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help
me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu
Laserandy wrote:
> Thanks Jim,
>
> Before you go to any trouble, is it the non pressurized style like the
> Origo?
>
> That is what we are trying to find (had a Kenyon pressurized stove on a
> prior boat, not looking to go back to that style).
>
I never used it or even looked at it closely -- it
David wrote:
> We do not have cockpit cushions an Aries, so have been considering some
> sort of folding deck chair as a substitute for the rare times we are
> sitting in the cockpit or deck at anchor/mooring/slip. I have seen various
> types of folding chairs at Boat Shows and Amazon. Have peop
In Miami last Friday I was one of the few at my marina who fully prepped --
it was just too unsure for me not to. First drill of the season. Hope all
threats are false dangers. Good luck to anyone in its (and any future
storms) paths.
On Mon, Aug 3, 2020 at 8:16 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-
Hello
>
> I am in the process of ordering new spreaders and the supplier asked to
> send the old bases so the holes can be properly aligned.
>
> The spreader bases are attached by screws. I have soaked with penetrating
> oil this evening and will soak over night. I will bring a torch over
> tomor
I'm finishing a long repainting project and will be reinstalling all my
cleats, winches, tracks and such soon.
Within the past few months there was a discussion about mounting deck
hardware and which brand/type of Butyl Tape was preferred. I wrote it down
somewhere but time and dottage has carried
8th
>
> I found a good practice is to countersink gelcoat with 5/16th and apply
> cone shape butyl tape to bolt.
>
> last year I refitted deck hardware, genoa tracks and mast collar with this
> approach and it worked great.
>
> --
> *From:*
CHARLES wrote:
> The number of layers needed is driven by the weight of the cloth chosen
> and how thick the hull is there. I'd use 1708 as it is so easy to work
> with. It's two bias layers of 8oz roving stitched to some 1 1/2 oz glass
> mat. Measure the thickness of the hull after removing
WILLIAM wrote:
> snip >>
>
After the glue dries use a Sharp chisel to level, a little sandpaper and
> the apply finish.
>
I'd always been told it's better to set bungs (the plugs) by dipping them
in varnish before tapping them into place. That way, the varnish will act
as a waterproofer and sem
On my 1978 26 the handrails were throubolted with a single long bolt from
the outside to a nut and washer on the inside. Both inside and outside
rails have bungs to allow access to the slotted screw head from the top and
the nut on the inside.
I managed to hold the inside rail's nut by wedging a s
>>
>> Hi Dwight, do you remember what kind of screw head it was? I tried to
>> look through the deep small hole, couldn’t see it clearly...tried all kinds
>> of screwdriver and could not get it to work.
>>
>>
Although a Phillips Head or other "fancy" screw is easier to turn with a
driver than a c
Today I was trying to use my smallest square head screwdriver, which is #1
> size, it was still too big. Do you remember if it was #0 or #00?
>
I wouldn't be surprised if it isn't a phillips head with the slots full of
dried sealent or calking or something. Try picking at it with an awl and
see if
A while back there was a discussion about using wicking material to suck up
the standing water that gets trapped along the toe rail to carry it
outboard.
What it the best wick material for this?
TIA
Jim Hesketh
Whisper C&C 26
Miami, FL
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the lis
Thank you, everyone for your suggestions.
Tom Buscaglia mentioned chamois. I have a cheep synthetic one that didn't
work well for its intended purpose; maybe it'll work for the toe rail. I'll
start with that and move on to other ideas if it doesn't work here ether.
Thanks again,
Jim Hesketh
Whis
I'd removed all the deck hardware prior to painting Whisper's decks, cabin
and cockpit and have the bow and stern rails, stanchions and bimini rails
home for polishing.
Using the coarse pad and rouge I've got a clean surface I'm satisified with.
My question is -- Does it need to be polished down
What is the recommended VHB tape for mounting side windows? Thought I had
it written down, but can't find it now.
TIA
Jim
C&C 26 –– Whisper
Miami, Fl
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