CHARLES  wrote:

> The number of layers needed is driven by the weight of the cloth chosen
> and how thick the hull is there.  I'd use 1708 as it is so easy to work
> with.  It's two bias layers of 8oz roving stitched to some 1 1/2 oz glass
> mat.  Measure the thickness of the hull after removing the thru-hull.
> Multiply that by 12 to mark a circle around the hole.  Then grind a bevel
> from the hole out to the mark.  Cover the hole from the inside with some
> mylar sheet, taped tight to the surface.
>
>
I've done a number of these and always lay up a layer of glass on the
inside -- instead of taping mylar as Charls suggests -- and let it set
before working from the outside.  Just makes me feel better that way. Other
than that, I pretty much follow his suggestion as written. But then I grind
it after it sets just deep enough that I can fill and fair with a thin
layer of gelcoat. I usually like to work with WEST epoxy, but gelcoat
doesn't adhere well to epoxy, so I use polyester resin for those jobs.

Jim Hesketh
C&C 26 Whisper
Miami, FL
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