Hi All,
As I mentioned last spring as part of a question about life rafts, I had
planned to sail my C&C33-1 solo to Bermuda and back (double handed) in
the Bermuda1-2 race. I did, It was fun, it was terrifying, it was
expensive to prepare for, and it was frustrating as I did not do well (dfl)
>
> Answers for Patrick:
>
> > 3)
> Is the exhaust hose looped up? Yes but not enough. Usually there is a
> flapper valve on the exhaust but the reverse transom angle and the angled
> cut of the exhaust make commercial ones unusable.
>
> 4) Does your fuel tank vent line not have a check valve in
gt; weather.
>
> Invest in an asym for a carbon spin pole. Asym is useless if more than
> 140 degrees off the wind.
>
> Wish I could answer the hard questions! How did someone get a below deck
> pilot in in the first place?
>
> Joel
> 35/3
> Annapolis
>
> On
a bit inconvenient to get to.
>
> For (4) I recall a diagram of routing the vent through the base of a
> stantion with some added venting high in that tubing. Complicates the
> stantion base support. Not sure if that venting path is standards-compliant
> but interesting.
>
> Ed
&g
gt; Martin DeYoung
>
> Calypso
>
> 1971 C&C 43
>
> Seattle
>
>
> [image: Description: Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *David
> Paine via CnC-List
> *Sent:*
27;d be concerned about forgetting to open the seacock or ball valve.
>
> Mark
>
>
> There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
> - George Santayana
>
> On 2015-10-27 3:50 PM, David Paine via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Hi All,
>
> As I mentioned las
Thanks David!
On the topic of Solent stays, I think I have two options. (1) A true
removable Solent supported at the top of the mast by the backstay and at
the deck near the bow fitting or (2) possibly, a staysail stay supported
at the spreaders (one set) by the aft lowers and at the midforedec
Coincidently, the Practical Sailor test C&C 33 -1 that Bob mentions is my
boat. Just about everything they wrote about doing 25 years ago has been
redone.
On Tue, Nov 17, 2015 at 8:44 PM, bobmor99 . via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> That would be great, although PS had a 33-1 as a
wow, $800 each seems steep. I bought a set of two Barrient two speed self
tailing model 21-33 winches (plus a complete helm) that came off a wrecked
person 33 for $300. BTW, I know I have the model number because it's
inscribed on the top of the winch but I can't find the service manual
anywhe
Patrick,
What you want is: http://www.mcmaster.com/#foam-cords/=wgxej0
I just bought 1/2" cord for my A&H foredeck hatch. My friend has A&H side
ports on his Alberg and he bought the 3/8" cord to fit into the groove.
David
On Wed, Mar 25, 2015 at 9:50 PM, Patrick Davin via CnC-List <
cnc-list
EDPM smooth surface cord: http://www.mcmaster.com/#foam-cords/=wgxi0l
On Wed, Mar 25, 2015 at 10:01 PM, David Paine wrote:
> Patrick,
>
> What you want is: http://www.mcmaster.com/#foam-cords/=wgxej0
>
> I just bought 1/2" cord for my A&H foredeck hatch. My friend has A&H side
> ports on his
But, if you go to the McMaster site via the link scroll down to the EDPM
cord which is an exact replacement and not the other stuff listed on that
page.
On Thu, Mar 26, 2015 at 2:49 PM, Daniel Sheer via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> Here's the stuff. Seems the galley and head hatches
Hi All,
C&C 33 - 1 with two sets of lowers: forward and aft. They attach at two
attachment points on the mast, one slightly higher than the other and both
just below the spreaders. Do the forward lowers attach at the highest
point or the one 2 inches lower?
Thanks!
David
_
I am planning to install lazy jacks on my C&C 33-1. Something simple with
rings instead of blocks. The two top most lines attach ... where? I'm
aiming for half way between the spreaders and the top of the mast. How
long should the top piece be (ie where does the first split occur?
Appreciate an
In my 1975 C&C 33-1, I was able (many years ago) to get my daughter (when
she was 11) to squeeze into that space (twice) once to remove the old
exhaust and again to put a new one back on. We did this by removing the
engine control panel and both screw-on access ports to reduce
claustrophobia. I
Hi All,
I just took my mast down (original mast on a 1975 C&C 33) for some work and
was horrified to find that one of my spreaders is cracked in a not-good
way. Ideally, I'd like to replace it -- does anyone know where such a part
could be found? It's an airfoil shaped section that tapers toward
Thanks, I'll give Klacko a try! Then, if they don't have it or if the
cost is insane, I'll try to fix it. For the record (and because someone
asked), the crack is really more like a split along the leading edge.
Welding or reinforcement might be possible.
Thanks all,
David
On Thu, Dec 4, 201
Hi All,
Here's a cold day topic ...
I am aiming to compete in the 2015 Bermuda 1-2 race in my vintage C&C 33-1.
(my boat won't be the only old C&C). My pretentions are modest -- think
Eddie the Eagle rather than Moitessier, but I have sailed to Bermuda and
back several times and I have done the
n Thu, Jan 8, 2015 at 12:38 PM, John Pennie via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I'll jump on that offer! You may want to check the cost of re certifying
> a Winslow 6 man offshore before offering! Feel free to contact me off
> list. I'm in NJ
>
>
Hi All,
I'm buying a new mainsail and I am going to ask a ridiculous-sounding
question. Do you have a Cunningham grommet in your mainsail? I do not
in my current sail but that is because Hood made the sail with a jack line
(or lace line) which serves the purpose. My new sail definitely won't
Quick question for the List:
I've had "my" sail maker put three reefs into my mainsail (C&C33-I). Most
of the time I sail with the reef-line not run through the clew grommets.
For an upcoming sailing adventure, I will need to have all three reefs
rigged and ready to go. What line should I use?
Great points, I'm in the middle of doing the same refab job:
My questions are:
(1) 0.5 " diameter circular cross-section neoprene gasket (for the hatch
seal onto frame) but what harness neoprene?
(2) Does anyone know where to get a replacement aluminum hatch handle (the
round one that allows th
Burt,
I can say that I have a below deck actuator in my C&C33 so in your case
(with a tiller) there should be plenty of room. In my case I bolted a
below deck tiller and mounted it athwartships just above the quadrant (I
have wheel steering). The actuator runs fore-and-aft and is mounted in the
Hi John,
I've grown to love (or at least respect) my Hillerange pressure OH stove.
The key is to heat the delivery pipe that runs over the top of the burner
without setting the boat ablaze. My usual procedure is to open the valve,
look for liquid (small amount) in the pan below the burner then c
Hi all,
I have to replace the shift cable on my C&C33-1 and it is proving to be
troublesome. I have the original atomic 4 with the v-drive so the
transmission is located in the front. The red jacket 64CC series cable
comes from the helm, under the cockpit sole and beneath the engine and
attach
because I could not find a replacement.
>>
>>
>>
>> There is more fun at the other end (cockpit) when it’s time to attach and
>> adjust the cable. I disassembled the cable “tubes” from the binnacle to
>> accomplish this.
>>
>>
>> Rod Randow
>
Apr 15, 2016 at 7:45 PM, bobmor99 . wrote:
>
>> Hi David,
>> My only (marginally useful) advice is to use a Dremel instead of a
>> hacksaw.
>> It's really tight down there.
>> --Bob M
>>
>>
>> On Fri, Apr 15, 2016 at 7:26 PM, David Paine via C
<
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> Wow. I'd love to see some details of that arrangement.
> --Bob Moriarty
> Ox 33-1
> Jax, FL
>
> On Fri, Apr 15, 2016 at 8:57 PM, David Paine via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Bob, My below decks ardui
Someone, a while back, asked in another thread how I fit a below decks
autopilot in my c&c 33-1. Here is a picture looking back from the
starboard cockpit locker showing the Al-tiller arm mounted on the rudder
post just above the quadrant. A cable that runs to the cockpit is used to
engage the au
Nice!
On Thu, May 5, 2016 at 6:10 PM, bobmor99 . via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> I made a solar panel bimini.
> It's been tidied and beefed up a bit since the pic was taken.
>
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B0btSA_J8otua091R1dRbDFWMDA
>
> Bob M
> Ox 33-1
> Jax, FL
>
> On Wed,
I've been messing with my steering and the placement of the wheel stop on
the quadrant. My question is, how many turns (or partial turns) of the
wheel past midships does your steering system allow?
Thanks,
David
___
This list is supported by the gener
Thanks for the info -- my wheel used to do three turns stop to stop but I
reconfigured my below decks tiller arm (that sits above the quadrant --
quarter circle) in a way that, unintentionally, will reduce it to 2 turns.
I suppose I really should ask what a reasonable maximum rudder angle
would b
Bob,
I had the same spreader problem (wear from a previous owner not tying off
the steel cable halyard). In the end the best solution was to remake the
spreaders. Bay sailing equipment, 986 cherry street, Fall River,
Frank: 508 678 4419 has the original C&C extrusion and did the work.
It
Just for the record, you do not want to be dependent on the head pump to
keep your boat afloat as the valves in these things can and do fail. Sea
water overflowing the bowl probably means that there is a siphon between
the head and the though hull (or worse). Replacing the pump just delays
sinki
Hi Barbara,
I have a 33-1 with the same configuration. I don't see any need to change
it as It works well for draining small amounts of water. However, when
you need to empty the cockpit in a hurry, say when its been filled after
being pooped by a breaking wave, you need more drain cross-sectio
Hi Joe,
Sorry to hear that your project has come to an end. I've been there on
other projects! I have, and actively cruise, a C&C 33 mark 1 1975.Is
your boat, by chance, diesel powered? If so, I could imagine a scenario
where I would be interested in acquiring your boat.
Best,
David
On W
Hi Bob,
I'm very sorry to hear that the mighty Ox has fallen!
I'm a fellow C&C33-I owner. I hope this isn't too crass, but if you have a
bimni for Ox, I would be interested in it. Also, (and this is really a
stretch), I have been thinking of rebuilding my rudder. If the boat goes
to the dumps
Hi Denis,
I went to a window building place and went through their samples of spline
and found one that fit perfectly. I then went to Amazon and ordered the
shortest roll I could get (100 ft). Here is what I bought:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001G0Y5EA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=
the outside facing side worked then? I assume
> the second groove went under the frame and was not visible?
>
> Dennis C.
>
> On Fri, Mar 23, 2018 at 6:00 AM, David Paine via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Hi Denis,
>>
>> I went to a
Someone stop me before I go too far
I'd like to rebuild/insulate the ice box on my C&C 33-1 in preparation for
the installation of a AB cold machine that I acquired recently. To to
insulate properly, I am going to have to pull the ice box cabinet apart
and possibly create and install a new,
s. My buddy with a
> sister boat pulled the rails and cut the countertop under the rails to
> remove the icebox in order to add insulation.
>
> Depending on how your icebox is made, I'd think long and hard before
> tackling adding insulation.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 3
I know that my rudder leaks and, every year I drill a drain hole to empty
it. Rusty water comes out. Of course I will do my best to seal the
rudder post where it enters the rudder but I am toying with the idea of
cutting into my C&C 33-I's rudder to examine the state of the weld that
holds the
Thank very much!That's helpful. I shall study this a bit more but it's
approximately what I am planning to do. How did you deal thje rudder
stock?
On Thu, Mar 23, 2017 at 7:17 PM, Patrick Davin wrote:
> When the yard did this for me last year, they just used a ~3" hole saw and
> aimed for
yes, thanks, that's what my garbled text meant! I'm going to with the
dig-a-groove around the rudder post/stock and fill it with 5200 approach.
Thanks again.
On Fri, Mar 24, 2017 at 12:24 PM, Patrick Davin wrote:
> Do you mean what was done around the rudder stock to prevent water
> intrusion?
I have a 1975 33 - I and I did the following:
I went to a window building place and went through their samples of spline and
found one that fit perfectly (ie, it closely matched the old spline
thickness). I then went to Amazon and ordered the shortest roll I could
get (100 ft). Here is what I bo
Does anyone out there in C&C land know of a 33-1 with an installed Yanmar
3YM30? I ask because I am considering repowering my C&C 33-1. I love my
atomic 4 but last summer's cruise of over 1000 nm to Cape Breton and beyond
(and back) became a logistics challenge due to limited fuel range and
stora
Hi Mike,
Last summer we sailed up to Nova Scotia (from RI) and, when we got there,
we used the CCA guide. It seemed adequate for the harbor hopping that we
did from Shelburne to St Petes, Bras D'or Lakes.It is bare bones though
-- mostly narrative and none of the illustrated charts that are c
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