Hello:
I have a 1985 C&C 33-2
With the different types of cords and cost, I am looking for some advise
for what thickness and brand i should use when changing the stuffing box.
Any advise or instructions would be greatly appreciated.
Ray
LakeHouse
Milwaukee, WI
__
1985 C&C 33-2 and I am looking to do maintenance on two Barient 23 Winch,
Number 3985340. I have never taken apart one. I am reaching out for
advise and guidance, instructions, part replacements , grease brand and any
other help in completing this project would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Ra
Good morning. We have an '85 33-2 as well, 8 winches. I have found the website
L-36.com to be very useful for barient winch info, there are parts breakouts
for the different models. You may have to search around a bit but all the info
is there. I'm using Superlube grease this year. If you're ove
I should expand a bit on the l-36.com page, reference tab, scroll down to
winches, and pick service manuals, also the grease recommendation and the
Barient catalogue
Brad
Pulse
1985 C&C 33-2
Lake Huron
Anything worth doing requires sails!~~~_/)~~~
_
For grease, Practical Sailor highly recommends any of the winch maker's greases
or Green Grease which is available at auto parts stores. I went with the Green
Grease. Remember, small amounts of grease, not big globs, and keep it out of
the panels, which should be lubed using a light machine
Harken pawl oil and Harken winch grease. Clean the parts with a soft brush
like a tooth brush and mineral spirits. Apply grease lightly more is not
better. It’s not a hard job. I believe the cncphotoalbum site has some
diagrams for Barient winches.
On Tue, Apr 23, 2019 at 7:20 AM Raymond Macklin v
The rudder will start causing drag at about 5 degrees, 30 - 35 degrees is
usually more than enough.
Kurt & Connie Heckert
On Mon, 4/22/19, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:
Subject: Stus-List Maximum/Optimum Rudder Travel
To: "CnClist"
Cc: "Dennis C
"keep it out of the pauls" (not panels)... Darned spell check on my tablet...
I like the idea of a box cut out to set over the top of the winches, but have
to admit I've never gone to that extreme, and have not (as of yet!) lost a
spring or pawl. That said, I can easily see how it would happen.
Most all quadrants are built for a total travel 72 degrees, 36 degrees each way
. . . (historical convention)
If you turn the rudder farther than that, the cables start coming out of the
groove that holds them on the quadrant.
The largest loads that the whole steering system experiences happens w
And that 36 degrees, in both of my C&Cs (a 27 MKII and my current 37/40+) have
been enough to turn the boat in its own boat length going down a fairway
between docks.
More than enough maneuverability in my opinion... :)
Thanks Rob!
Bruce Whitmore
(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.n
That’s one of the great features of these designs.
Sent from my iPhone
On Apr 23, 2019, at 8:22 AM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
And that 36 degrees, in both of my C&Cs (a 27 MKII and my current 37/40+) have
been enough to turn the boat in its own boat leng
hanks,
> Ray
> LakeHouse
> Milwaukee, WI .
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in completing this project would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Ray
LakeHouse
Milwaukee, WI .
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Dennis,
To echo Rob’s concerns regarding the creation of a robust rudder stop, if the
previous iteration utilized two bolts inserted in the steering chain, I would
take a thorough inspection of the pedestal sprocket. Steel bolts coming into
contact with bronze sprocket teeth under load or at hi
Thanks, Rob.
That's exactly the info I needed. It also confirms what I'm seeing with
the reassembly. The cables coming out of the groove at the end of travel.
I will include this info in my documentation.
This has been a trial and error process at this point. I can move forward
now. Sucks hav
Chuck,
You guys are dead on. Your concerns have already been incorporated into
the project.
Your advice on the Morch pedestal several months ago stopped me from
pulling the shaft and sprocket. Yes, some of the teeth are damaged but
there are enough undamaged teeth for proper operation.
The bul
FWIW - I just went out to my side yard and checked were Fireballs stops
are set. Interestingly they are set at 65 deg., a lot more than I
expected since her rudder is two inches longer in girth than a standard
C&C 35 Mk2.
Don Kern
Fireball, C&C35 MK2
Bristol, RI
On 4/23/2019 9:12 AM, Chuck
Listers:
New question for the group’s collective wisdom. For reasons unrelated to a
holding tank issue, I recently removed the holding tank to gain access to the
area underneath. While it is out, I am considering replacing it. Ordinarily I
would order a comparable plastic tank and be don
As I mentioned the other day, a friend rebuilt his Jeanneau rudder. I now
have a bunch of pictures of the process in case anyone wants a blow-by-blow.
I must say, as I didn't see it after he took it home for the task, just how
rotten it was. I don't know that any of the C&C rudders are made up of
l
My parents have/had a flexible tank in their powerboat, which failed,
making for an unpleasant job to replace. Not sure if it was more unpleasant
that a rigid tank would have been, but I suspect so. Based on that, I'd opt
for a rigid (plastic) tank I think. The 35-2 we are buying has a newer
plasti
Shawn,
While some sailors prefer to “luggage tag” a single sheet to the clew of their
jib thus saving the excess bulk of a pair of bowlines that may hang up on a
baby stay or other deck mounted obstructions, I’ve gone back to using two
separate jib sheets on the 135% jib of our Landfall 35. To
If or when I have to replace my head or the holding tank I think I’ll be
installing a composting head and be done with it.
Tom S
From: Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, April 23, 2019 11:21 AM
To: CnClist
Cc: Matthew L. Wolford
Subject: Stus-List Rigid vs. flexible sewage holding
I have purchased a composting toilet and will be installing it this spring.
Dave.
SLY
1975 C&C 33
Sent from my iPad
> On Apr 23, 2019, at 8:49 AM, T Sutton via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> If or when I have to replace my head or the holding tank I think I’ll be
> installing a composting head and be
Just out of curiosity, why are you thinking of replacing it?
Bruce Whitmore
(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
On Tuesday, April 23, 2019, 11:22:11 AM EDT, Matthew L. Wolford via
CnC-List wrote:
Listers: New question for the group’s collective wisdom. For reasons
Noo don’t do it!
I did a job once removing one and adding a Lecrta-San. Sewage plus oxygen gets
slowly digested into benign fertilizer by aerobic bacteria. Sewage without
oxygen gets digested by anaerobic bacteria that STINK. Sooner or later the
bladder will leak, or in my c
Others already chimed in on how to do it. One advice – take a old shoebox, cut
a round opening in the bottom and put the box over the winch when you
disassemble. The small parts have propensity to swim. The box can save you a
few days (waiting for delivery of replacement parts).
Marek
From: Ra
Three reasons: 1) it’s almost a decade old, and although I don’t know its
useful life, I have no interest in finding out; 2) it was a pre-fab unit with
all the fittings on top, which uses up some valuable space at the expense of
volume; and 3) one of the fittings is allowing some odor to get out
I also had a flexible holding tank that failed. Go with a hard plastic one.
Doug Mountjoy Sv Rebecca Leah LF39253-208-1412Port Orchard YC wa.
Original message From: Shawn Wright via CnC-List
Date: 4/23/19 08:37 (GMT-08:00) To:
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Shawn Wright Subject:
Presuming we are talking Low Density LDPE plastic (usually a semi-translucent
white/yellowish material), I don't think those tanks have a useful life per se.
I had cracked freshwater LDPE tank, and was able to weld it when it cracked.
Welding plastic is pretty easy. As to one of the fittings
Well, I am sure you have heard enough to decide, I am guessing you are
replacing a plastic tank. They do hold up well as a rule.
Maybe a more streamlined tank would be worth the expense, if you already have
the other out, it is no trouble.
Just to let you know where I stand, I recall a trip
Yes, your responses have confirmed what I already believed. Thanks to all who
responded.
From: Bill Coleman via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, April 23, 2019 4:43 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bill Coleman
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rigid vs. flexible sewage holding tank
Well, I am sure you have hea
I don't share the list's disdain of flex tanks. Touche' has flex tanks for
both potable water and waste water. No issues at all.
In fact, the potable water tank is easy to clean each spring. Just empty
it, yank it out, put it on the dock, put some water in it and slosh it
around. Rinse and rei
Don,
Just to clarify, are you saying 65 each side for 130 degrees total travel?
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
On Tue, Apr 23, 2019, 9:09 AM Don Kern via CnC-List
wrote:
> FWIW - I just went out to my side yard and checked were Fireballs stops
> are set. Interestingly they are set
65 degrees would be a TON of drag!
Joe
Coquina
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C.
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, April 23, 2019 7:35 PM
To: CnClist
Cc: Dennis C.
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List Maximum/Optimum Rudder Travel
Don,
Just to clarify, are yo
Joe, I agree but I think that's close to what the early 35-1's were at
maximum rudder. Have you measured the travel on Coquina? Just eyeball the
end of the rudder shaft. You might be surprised.
I got Touche's steering system back together today.
Right now, with the new limit plates, Touche' ha
That's a great idea to use a shoebox.
Does anyone know what size of pawls a Lewmar 42 winch Takes? I believe
there are small and large available and can't seem to find which of these
are for the 42 model.
Cheers,
Marc.
On Tue, Apr 23, 2019 at 10:31 AM Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-
a 1 gallon plastic ice cream bucket also works very well for winch
overhaul. Cut a smaller hole then an X in the bottom and push it over the
winch before you start. Another ice cream bucket is perfect for solvent to
clean the winch bearings, pauls etc so they can't get away in the process.
Placi
Hi I use 65 ft 1/2" genoa sheets which seem to work well. I tried 5/8 one year but found them to heavy and went back to 1/2".
Bill Bruce
Landfall 38
___
Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each an
Listers,
I own a 1989 C&C 35 Mk3, hull number 264. The registration says 1989 and the
HIN on the stern reads Z C C 3 5 2 6 4 J 7 8 9.
However, online reviews and sailboatdata all indicate the 35 was only built
until 1987.
Is anyone able to clear up this discrepancy?
Is anyone able to inte
We're getting down to the final days before closing on the C&C 35-2, and
I'm getting a bit discouraged by the number of things needing work, and the
way in which the previous owner did a lot of things:
-the electrical is a mess, with the original fuse panel having quite a few
additional switches,
Oh yeah, a few more things. I sounded the decks, and although there is some
creaking when walking between the mast and hatch area, sounding gives a
consistent sound. The only place that was different was around the
chainplates, but it was almost completely just inboard and outboard of
them, which i
From a previous post from Rick Brass:
First three (alpha) characters are the manufacturer code
Next two are the model
Next three are the hull number
Next one is the letter for the month when production was started if your
format is the model year version (a=January)
Next one is the year produ
Shawn:
2 years ago, I also bought a 35MkII and subsequently let it go after an
unfavorable survey. It was a very difficult decision to make. I really
liked the design and solid build of the 35. In the sea trial it sailed
beautifully, exactly the way I think a boat should sail. The interior has
Hi Eric,
Thanks for sharing your experience. After spending so long finding this
boat, it is hard to let it go, not knowing when another might come along. I
found the 30 a bit cramped, and that was before we looked at the 35, so I
suspect it would be hard to go back. I am retired, so have the time
Question:
Why would you want a shaft coupling that is easier to take apart, but also
inherently less strong than a solid coupler?
I recently had to take off a stuck coupler to install a drip-less stuffing
box. It was easy to make a puller to apply tons of force to separate it. I
now know I when i
We think of a battery as being a pure reservoir of power. In actual fact,
a battery is a source of power that has an internal resistance that changes
with the state of charge and age/condition of the battery. For this reason
if you have a bank of batteries wired in parallel (as is done in a house
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