Question:
Why would you want a shaft coupling that is easier to take apart, but also
inherently less strong than a solid coupler?

I recently had to take off a stuck coupler to install a drip-less stuffing
box. It was easy to make a puller to apply tons of force to separate it.  I
now know I when it gets old I'll never have to worry about it separating
when I throw it in reverse!

Also note this job should involve a torque wrench.  The Buck Algonquin wed
site  says the jack bolts are 7/16" Grade 5 which means they should be
torqued to 35 ft/lbs.  That's pretty darn snug for those little, square
bolt heads.  The 4 bolts between the engine and coupling I replaced with
grade 8 and torqued them accordingly.



On Sat, Apr 20, 2019 at 10:11 PM Paul Baker via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I have something similar (Yanmar), it's mostly a rusted lump but still
> looks relatively easy to remove by cutting a few bolts if necessary.
>
> ------------------------------
> *From:* CnC-List <cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com> on behalf of Steve
> Thomas via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> *Sent:* April 20, 2019 12:37 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Steve Thomas
> *Subject:* Stus-List Split propeller coupling
>
> Anyone have any experience using a split propeller coupling?
> Looks like a neat solution to the jamming problems associated with the
> traditional couplings.
> Might also be less likely to work loose when recently assembled.
>
> This is what I am looking at:
>
>
> https://www.generalpropeller.com/inboard-shafts-and-couplings/RD-Split-Couplings/202-254
>
>
> Steve Thomas
> C&C27 MKIII
> C&C36
>
>
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