Thanks Jimmy,
That's really neat that you bought one of the first one's off the factory
floor. Thanks for the information. I think this little boat is going to be a
blast.
Mark McMenamy
"Icicle" C&C 25
Fort Pierce FL
> On Jan 25, 2016, at 11:17 PM, Jimmy Kelly via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> o
Alex
We had a 1974 C&C designed Paceship P23 a number of years ago and went through
the same process. I found a used spinnaker from Atlantic Sail Traders I
believe quite reasonably. For the mast we purchased a stationary rig from The
Binnacle in Halifax
http://ca.binnacle.com/Sailboat-Hardwa
Hi Mark,
Congratulations on your new 25 Mk1. Ive owned Half Magic, a 1975 model 25
Mk 1 since 2001 and it has served my family and me very well as a casual
racer, day sailor and weekend cruiser. If youre just mounting the outboard
and upgrading from a smaller and perhaps lighter outboard, you
Mark,
+1 on rebedding the chainplates. I don’t know how they look like on a C&C 25,
but on a 24 they need rebedding every two-three years. However, even though I
used 3M 4200 the last time I did it, I would recommend using butyl tape,
instead of 4200. One of the best sources is Compass Marine (
Hi Chuck,
I have small hairline stress cracks behind the outboard as well. I asked the
yard to look at it. He wasn't too concerned but asked that I bring it back
when it is warmer because it's hard to get gel coat to cure with the cold
weather we've been having. Behind my transom there is a
Also, I'm having the through hulls replaced with proper sea cocks as
well.but thanks a lot for the thought though!
Mark
Mark McMenamy
"Icicle" C&C 25
Fort Pierce FL
On Jan 26, 2016, at 8:40 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Hi Mark,
Congratulations on
Mark,
I wish I had a viable solution, but I really dont. My plywood backing
plate inside the transom is ½ marine plywood as previously mentioned and it
is epoxy bonded in place and through bolted with the 4 ½ motor mount bolts
with large fender washers to spread out the loads. I would say t
Thanks Chuck. Mine originally had a Vire 7 as well.
I have a 20" outboard as well. How often do you have trouble with the engine
cavitating?
Mark
Mark McMenamy
"Icicle" C&C 25
Fort Pierce FL
On Jan 26, 2016, at 9:19 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Ma
The panels over the galley and nav station on this boat would have a curve to
them.
Were any of the panels on your 38 curved much? If so, how did you work that out
with 1/4" plywood? I was thinking that 1/8" would work ok, but that 1/4" might
have to be steamed, or slotted on the back, or somet
Mark,
I can just say that it happens on occasion and it is totally driven by the
sea state and wind direction. Because of that, I will try my best to sail
using a 100% jib and reefed main in anything up to 25+ knots on the nose.
When I need to motor due to time constraints (or seasick crew) headi
You get waves in Buzzards Bay that would cavitate an outboard...?
Cant be...
David F. Risch
1981 40-2
(401) 419-4650 (cell)
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 2016 10:46:01 -0500
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 25 Info
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
CC: csgilchr...@comcast.net
Mark,I can just
David,
We cant all be grizzled offshore veterans such as the salty crew of the
Corsair, to whom a blustery romp on Buzzards Bay is akin to a benign hop
across a tranquil pond.Lesser vessels require somewhat more moderate
conditions to keep mutineers at bay.
Best,
Chuck Gilchrest
Half Magic
Hi Steve.
My panels on my C & C 36 have been replaced. The originals were 1/8 of an
inch plywood(although it looks more like wood paneling type material) covered
with a vinyl/ foam pad. I was fortunate to have my existing panels as a
template. I used 1/8 plywood and went to a fabric store
I would recommend Masonite (tempered hardboard) for this job. It is
available in 1/8 or 1/4 inch thicknesses.
Bill Bina
On 1/26/2016 12:08 PM, Adam Hayden via CnC-List wrote:
Hi Steve.
My panels on my C & C 36 have been replaced. The originals were 1/8 of an
inch plywood(although it looks
Thanks. I've been wondering how using the engine would play out. During our
sailing lessons we've always been in shore, never any real rough chop. I'll be
using the Fort Pierce inlet which is one of the more benign inlets here in FL,
but at times it for sure can get choppy, even if it's not l
Thanks for all your informative responses. I have been doing foredeck racing
on a Tripp 33 for a few years but just got my C&C 24 this past fall. I was
mainly trawling for mounting and hardware details but I have a pretty good idea
of what is necessary based on the CNC manual. I don't have th
Mark,
The 25 is a stiff little boat and should make the trip without incident.
All I can say is to plan ahead and dont try to keep to a schedule. Give
yourself several options for staying overnight if you dont plan to sail
after dark.Ive covered 50 nm in a day on Half Magic during a delive
I have 2 panels with a goog amount of curve. When I put them up, I started
on the end with the least amount of bend putting screws every 8 inches. (reason
for brass screws). I did use 3ply veneer. I didn't pay attention to grain as I
was trying for maximum useage of each sheet of wood.
I am replacing the original sole on Persistence. It was ¾ inch teak and holly
and thankfully can all be done with one 4x8 sheet. Thankfully especially since
the one sheet I purchased is $609 CAD after taxes!
I have already replaced the sole in the past on our J27 also teak and Holly and
noted
I like the idea of gluing a 1/2" strip of solid teak across the grain on
the edges. It will help keep the veneer from chipping. I hope to retrofit
mine that way this year.
You can thin the epoxy with acetone and put it on in thin coats.
I guess things will work OK in the cold garage, but I would br
I refinished mine several years ago and also had trouble getting the epoxy
to flow. I didn't thin it. Now I know.
I think the clear hardener only comes in 1 "speed". For the visible
surface, you want the clear.
Joel
35/3
Annapolis
On Tue, Jan 26, 2016 at 2:51 PM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List <
Mike,
I did the sole replacement two years ago on my 36. Some thoughts.
I used router with round over bit on back side to get proper radius.
I epoxied both sides, using foam roller. Slow cure west system. Good base.
I overdrilled fastener holes and filled with thickened epoxy, then redri
Once the chop gets rough, on a C&C 25 your most practical solution would be
to go with the flow and sail.
She sails much better than motors, especially with the outboard.
It may also be feasible on a choppy sea to somehow put and additional line
from the engine, over the pushpit to a cleat or solid
I moved my stations to the toerail when I bought my boat in 2000. I used one
existing screw on the toerail and had to drill another one to mount the base.
I made sure that they were lined up with an existing hole in the rail so I
didn’t have to drill another hole for the screw that holds the s
I can't remember the name now but I recall a really thin epoxy available in
pint cans that has a flow like linseed oil. EPES (or something like that) is
recommended for direct application to new wood because of its penetrating
power. This was recommended to me by someone for doing the underside
I can't remember the name now but I recall a really thin epoxy available in
pint cans that has a flow like linseed oil. EPES (or something like that) is
recommended for direct application to new wood because of its penetrating
power. This was recommended to me by someone for doing the underside
I can't remember the name now but I recall a really thin epoxy available in
pint cans that has a flow like linseed oil. EPES (or something like that) is
recommended for direct application to new wood because of its penetrating
power. This was recommended to me by someone for doing the underside
I can't remember the name now but I recall a really thin epoxy available in
pint cans that has a flow like linseed oil. EPES (or something like that) is
recommended for direct application to new wood because of its penetrating
power. This was recommended to me by someone for doing the underside
Charlie — I think you’re referring to “CPES”:
http://www.smithandcompany.org/CPES/
Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI :^(
> On Jan 26, 2016, at 2:52 PM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> I can't remember the name now but I rec
Probably Smiths penetrating epoxy. http://www.smithandcompany.org/CPES/
Dennis C.
On Tue, Jan 26, 2016 at 1:52 PM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> I can't remember the name now but I recall a really thin epoxy available
> in pint cans that has a flow like linseed o
Mike:
I haven't replaced the cabin sole but I have painted:
1. the underside of the teak and holly sole with West System
Resin.two coats with the slow hardenerapplied with a foam
brushflowed evenly.worked just fine.
2. have never applied resin to the topside.not sure I w
Mike,
For my second time rebuilding my cabin sole I used the new Awlwood product. It
needs fewer coats but is a bit more expensive. I like it but it is more for use
on exterior wood as it resists UV better. I was planning on using their Satin
finish over the gloss undercoats but got tired of wa
Every sailboat I had had an autopilot or a tillerpilot.
I do singlehand often and find it part of the essential equipment.
Yes, I can balance it and go for quite a while without using the pilot on a
close houl or beam reach, but that does not substitute for the auopilot.
The main limit for motorin
Mark,
Welcome to the list, you’ll love your 25.
The 25 will hobby horse quite a bit in short chop, especially if you have a
heavy outboard on the back and an anchor on the front.
I have a 25” ELS 4 stroke on my boat and I rarely experience any cavitation in
waves but I do have stress cra
I have been talking to myself again :)
On Mon, Jan 25, 2016 at 7:40 PM, Ahmet wrote:
> I just bought one last August and love it.
> A good friend has one too, so we race all the time. His is a 1974.
> What is your hull ID. Let me know what you want to know. I posted a few
> things in the past, a
On Mon, Jan 25, 2016 at 7:46 PM, Ahmet wrote:
> I did the same on my 25. Although it is probably stronger, I am hesitant
> on putting too much load, so that I don't bend the toerail.
> I did actually tapped the toerail to reduce the load on the washer/nut
> under the deck.
> It will probably be a
Sorry folks, maybe gmail is filtering my own messages, because I don't see
them.
Is this getting through ?
I am not sure if I subscribed as ah...@sailnomad.com or sailno...@gmail.com
They are the same email, just different aliases.
Ahmet
___
Email addres
Lets get this fun fleet of 25s to The NE Rendevouz this September!
Details to follow shortly from Edd and Rob...
David F. Risch
1981 40-2
(401) 419-4650 (cell)
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 2016 16:42:46 -0500
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 25 Info
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
CC: sa
I sailed my old 25 all over the Keys. A perfect boat for it, particularly on
the Gulf side, where the shoal draft will get you into all kinds of skinny
anchorages.
An 8 foot inflatable can be pumped up on deck and stored there when you don't
want to deflate it.
Where the 25 gets a little eye-o
Ahmet – looks like you are subscribed with your gmail account.
Stu
From: Ahmet via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, January 26, 2016 4:44 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Ahmet
Subject: Stus-List Messages
Sorry folks, maybe gmail is filtering my own messages, because I don't see
them.
Is this getti
Thanks Ahmet. I've been reading a looking at youtube videos of ways to rig the
boat bungee/ thr head sail sheet as an autopilot depending the point of sail.
It seems to work very well. I was looking at a tiller pilot too, but of course
there's a current draw.
Mark
Mark McMenamy
"Icicle" C&C
Thanks a lot Jack. I was thinking of planning an off shore run to Lake Worth
one day, and then heading to Miami to avoid the bridges. Is it possible to do
an all night sail and knock it out in a day or so?
Thanks,
Mark
Mark McMenamy
"Icicle" C&C 25
Fort Pierce FL
On Jan 26, 2016, at 5:13 PM
Hi Rick,
Thanks for the info! Did you reinforce the cockpit floor before you added a
post hole for the table? I was thinking of doing the same thing. I read that
some 25's came from the factory so the table could be moved.
Thanks for the info and the welcome.
Mark
Mark McMenamy
"Icicle" C
I’m in the middle of this project too! I took Wally’s advice and am using 1/4”
foamed PVC, but in my case, I am not painting it. Wally has reported that it
has held up great and if it can stand up to his use.. It is held in place
by velcro. I am happy with the result and look so far. I used
Balancing the boat that way works pretty good, and I do that sometimes.
The current draw of the autopilot is very low, around usually 1 to 2 amps
while operating, but yes, It is there.
It would be of concern if used continuously for several days without
charging the battery.
Ahmet
On Tue, Jan 26,
Yes, that's it. Worked fine for me on my 'under sole'.
Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom
North Carolina
Sent from my iPhone
> On Jan 26, 2016, at 3:55 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> Charlie — I think you’re referring to “CPES”:
>
> http://www.smithandcompany.org/CPES/
>
> Fred
If the weather is right, it's very doable. Once you reach Delray, the
Gulfstream is close, so you need to run in 40 to 100 feet of water to avoid
northbound currents.
Be aware, though, that you may end up motorsailing when the winds turn
southeast-south, as they often do. But it's much quicker
I refinished the cabin sole on my 34+ several years ago and used multiple
coats of Smith's CPES - Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer on the top
side, followed by about 6 coats of Epifanes two- part polyurethane. I have
been very pleased with the result which is a glossy finish. Since I
stripped and s
Mark,
The table was removable on all the C&C 25s, you may have been thinking of
the Hinterhoeler built Redline 25s, they predated the C&C 25s and had a
dinette that converted into a berth.
There's no need to reinforce the cockpit floor, just seal the edges of the
core when you drill the hole
Thanks. Sounds like a fairly straightforward project. My post is welded to
the base. Looks like there are several options for base with a removable post.
I'd be nice to be able to put the table in the cockpit.
I like your idea to put a table across the galley. I bought an Origo 3000
alcoho
Hey Mark,
I have a cousin with the same name from NY. That wouldn't be you?
Danny
Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device Original message From: Mark
McMenamy via CnC-List Date: 1/26/2016 9:12 PM
(GMT-05:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Mark McMenamy
Subject: Re: Stus-List
No Danny. But apparently there's a really good seafood restaurant called
McMenamy's Seafood in MA. People are always asking me if we're related so
there must be some McMenamy's in the NE. I'm from St Louis MO originally.
Mark
Mark McMenamy
"Icicle" C&C 25
Fort Pierce FL
On Jan 26, 2016, at
Ahmet;
The old Honda 4 stroke on my 25 used between .6 and .75 gallons per hour. I’ve
not had the Tohatsu 9.9 on the boat for long enough to be positive about the
fuel consumption, but I’m guess in to be in the .75 gaal/hour range when
running about 5 knots.
Rick Brass
Washington, NC
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