Every sailboat I had had an autopilot or a tillerpilot. I do singlehand often and find it part of the essential equipment. Yes, I can balance it and go for quite a while without using the pilot on a close houl or beam reach, but that does not substitute for the auopilot.
The main limit for motoring is that I am estimating my fuel consumption to be about 1 gal./hour on my 9.9 HP Tohatsu 4 stroke Ahmet C&C 25 "Tabasco" Boston, MA On Tue, Jan 26, 2016 at 2:17 PM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Mark, > > The 25 is a stiff little boat and should make the trip without incident. > All I can say is to plan ahead and don’t try to keep to a schedule. Give > yourself several options for staying overnight if you don’t plan to sail > after dark. I’ve covered 50 nm in a day on Half Magic during a delivery > to a regatta but would have been much happier covering 2/3 that distance > and relaxed a bit more. You can motor all day at 5 kts in relatively calm > water but sooner or later you’ll want to take a break from the tiller and > the constant drone of the engine. Sometimes, especially in a shallow > enclosed bay, you get more “hobby horsing” over the short waves when the > breeze comes up, which would be annoying trying to keep the prop in the > water. Yet if you go outside to the Atlantic where the waves may be larger, > but more spaced apart, it is more likely that your ride will be more > comfortable and friendly to the engine. Just be wary of lee shores when > the wind is off the water. > > And with only 3’10” of draft, you’ll be able to go most everywhere in the > Keys. What fun! > > Chuck Gilchrest > > Half Magic > > 1975 25 Mk 1 > > S/V Orion > > 1983 35 Landfall > > Padanaram, MA > > > > > > *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Mark > McMenamy via CnC-List > *Sent:* Tuesday, January 26, 2016 1:50 PM > *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com > *Cc:* Mark McMenamy <markm...@msn.com> > *Subject:* Re: Stus-List C&C 25 Info > > > > Thanks. I've been wondering how using the engine would play out. During > our sailing lessons we've always been in shore, never any real rough chop. > I'll be using the Fort Pierce inlet which is one of the more benign inlets > here in FL, but at times it for sure can get choppy, even if it's not low > tide with and easterly wind. > > > > I was curious if people ever take these on longer trips? I was thinking > of going down to the keys but I'm not quite sure how feasible that is. > It's just my wife and I and we've done a lot of camping etc. It's a little > over 100 nm to get down there. > > > > Thanks again for the info. > > > > Mark > > > > > > > > Mark McMenamy > > "Icicle" C&C 25 > > Fort Pierce FL > > > On Jan 26, 2016, at 10:46 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > Mark, > > I can just say that it happens on occasion and it is totally driven by the > sea state and wind direction. Because of that, I will try my best to sail > using a 100% jib and reefed main in anything up to 25+ knots on the nose. > When I need to motor due to time constraints (or seasick crew) heading > directly into the wind and waves keeps the motor in the water better than a > heavy quartering sea which rolls the boat to leeward. Also motor sailing > seems to reduce cavitation sailing off the breeze as the boat tends to > “squat ” a bit to stern when under sail, maybe due to the weight of the > crew and an 85lb motor hanging off the stern. I’ve learned to pick and > choose my days a bit more carefully when it comes to transiting longer > distances just to keep the crew comfy and the boat in one piece. > > Chuck > > > > Chuck Gilchrest > > Half Magic > > 1975 25 Mk 1 > > S/V Orion > > 1983 35 Landfall > > Padanaram, MA > > > > *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com > <cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>] *On Behalf Of *Mark McMenamy via CnC-List > *Sent:* Tuesday, January 26, 2016 9:24 AM > *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com > *Cc:* Mark McMenamy <markm...@msn.com> > *Subject:* Re: Stus-List C&C 25 Info > > > > Thanks Chuck. Mine originally had a Vire 7 as well. > > > > I have a 20" outboard as well. How often do you have trouble with the > engine cavitating? > > > > Mark > > Mark McMenamy > > "Icicle" C&C 25 > > Fort Pierce FL > > > On Jan 26, 2016, at 9:19 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > Mark, > > I wish I had a viable solution, but I really don’t. My plywood backing > plate inside the transom is ½” marine plywood as previously mentioned and > it is epoxy bonded in place and through bolted with the 4 ½” motor mount > bolts with large fender washers to spread out the loads. I would say that > the spacing of the motor mount bolts is roughly 8” on centers, but the > backing plate is easily 18” wide and 13” high. I repainted Half Magic > with 2 part Polyurethane several years ago and took care to fill any cracks > or crazing caused by the motor induced transom flex. All was good until I > had to come across Buzzards Bay in 4 ft seas into the wind. Whenever the > prop would come out of the water coming down a wave, the poor transom would > flex enough that the cracks showed up again…. And yes, I have a long shaft > motor with a 20” leg, but given a second choice on the motor, should have > chosen the Xtra long shaft 25” leg. > > Also, my boat was originally outfitted with the Vire 7hp inboard motor, so > perhaps my transom was more lightly built from the onset, but somehow doubt > that C&C would use a lighter duty layup on a boat by boat basis. > > Chuck Gilchrest > > Half Magic > > 1975 25 Mk 1 > > S/V Orion > > 1983 35 Landfall > > Padanaram, MA > > > > *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com > <cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>] *On Behalf Of *Mark McMenamy via CnC-List > *Sent:* Tuesday, January 26, 2016 9:03 AM > *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com > *Cc:* Mark McMenamy <markm...@msn.com> > *Subject:* Re: Stus-List C&C 25 Info > > > > Hi Chuck, > > > > I have small hairline stress cracks behind the outboard as well. I asked > the yard to look at it. He wasn't too concerned but asked that I bring it > back when it is warmer because it's hard to get gel coat to cure with the > cold weather we've been having. Behind my transom there is a metal backing > plate that has been added to greater support the engine. However, it still > has gotten some small cracks outside. I'm wondering what I need to do to > keep this from happening again after I repair the gel coat. The metal > backing plate is kept in place with the motor mount bolts as well as three > bolts that go through the transom. The inside metal backing plate is > not quite flush with the transom due to imperfections in the fiberglass. > The surveyor thought this to be the cause of the cracks and recommended > removing the engine and the backing plate, milling down the fiberglass so > it is flat, and reinstalling. But to be honest, it seems like the mount > itself just puts too much strain on the transom gel coat. I was wondering > if it needed a piece of wood or fiberglass perhaps added in between the > mount and the transom to disperse the weight of the mount? > > > > Thanks for the help. Also, I'll look into it he backing plated as well. > > > > Mark > > Mark McMenamy > > "Icicle" C&C 25 > > Fort Pierce FL > > > On Jan 26, 2016, at 8:40 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > Hi Mark, > > Congratulations on your new 25 Mk1. I’ve owned Half Magic, a 1975 model > 25 Mk 1 since 2001 and it has served my family and me very well as a casual > racer, day sailor and weekend cruiser. If you’re just mounting the > outboard and upgrading from a smaller and perhaps lighter outboard, you may > want to reinforce the transom behind the outboard mount. I upgraded from a > 9.9 Evinrude 2 stroke Sail Twin to a 9.8 Nissan 4 stroke (at the time the > lightest 4 stroke on the market) and have noticed stress cracks on the > transom around the motor mount caused by the motor hobby horsing in the > choppy conditions of Buzzards Bay. And my transom has a large ½” marine > plywood backing plate glassed-in behind the outboard mount that is far > larger than the mount. Bottom line, the transom of these boats were not > designed for the weight of today’s larger outboards. I would have opted > for a smaller outboard, but wanted the alternator output for charging > batteries while motoring as well as the electric start for times when you > need to get the motor running NOW. We also have several areas in our > cruising grounds such as Woods Hole where currents can run upwards of 4 kts > so having a bit of extra power isn’t a bad thing. > > > > When replacing the standing rigging, it would be an ideal time to remove > and re-bed the chainplates and covers with 3M 4200 as they are prone to > leakage. Additionally, many of the boats produced in the mid 1970s had > gate valves on cockpit drains and through hulls rather than proper ball > valve seacocks. Same with hoses and hose clamps. Replacing them now > while your boat is not sailing might keep your boat from sinking one day. > > Compared to the Capri 25, your boat has way more interior space, and stand > up headroom for anyone under 5’7” down below. Not too many 25 ft. boats > can brag of that! > > Welcome to the C&C list, as it is a great resource and an addictive > distraction during the work day! > > Best, > > Chuck Gilchrest > > Half Magic > > 1975 25 Mk1 > > > > S/V Orion > > 1983 35 Landfall > > Padanaram, MA > > > > *Sent:* Monday, January 25, 2016 8:54 PM > *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com > *Cc:* Mark McMenamy <markm...@msn.com> > *Subject:* Re: Stus-List C&C 25 Info > > > > Hi Ahmet, > > > > I'm lucky to have had the former owner put self tailing winches. It also > has new Doyle sails and a new Suzuki 9.9hp outboard. > > > > That's all I have for a HIN. > > > > Mark > > > > On Jan 25, 2016, at 8:31 PM, Ahmet via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote: > > Not sure, but I can send you privately my previous discussions. > > New standing rigging is a good thing. Is there a plaque on the inside of > the transom that actually shows the hull id. ? > > I did move the stanctions to the toe-rail, and added a electical bilge > pump. > > I also replaced the winches with old aftermarket Lewmar T 30 self-tailing > winches. > > I am replacing the washers for the keel bolts because they were very rusty. > > Ahmet > > > > On Mon, Jan 25, 2016 at 7:49 PM, Mark McMenamy via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > Hello, > > > > Thanks for the reply. It's ZCC255260976. I'm not quite sure how these > forums work. Can I search for what you posted before and save you some > typing? > > > > I actually haven't sailed it yet because it needs new standing rigging. > It should be finished early next week. My only experience sailing is a > Capri 25 so I appreciate the feedback. > > > > Thanks, > > > > Mark > > > On Jan 25, 2016, at 7:42 PM, Ahmet via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote: > > I just bought one last August and love it. > > A good friend has one too, so we race all the time. His is a 1974. > > What is your hull ID. Let me know what you want to know. I posted a few > things in the past, and there is some pretty good info on the web. > > Ahmet > > 1973 C&C 25 "Tabasco" > > Winthrop, MA > > > > On Mon, Jan 25, 2016 at 7:35 PM, Mark McMenamy via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > Hello, > > My name is Mark McMenamy. I'm a new owner of a nice 1976 C&C 25 mk I as > well as a new sailer.....I'm a reformed power boater. I was curious if > anyone had information about the designer of this boat or any stories about > her development. I was told it's a Hinterhoeller design, but I haven't > been able to verify this. I just love this little boat and would > appreciate to know a little of her backstory. > > Thanks a million, > > Mark > > > _______________________________________________ > > Email address: > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the > bottom of page at: > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Email address: > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the > bottom of page at: > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > > > _______________________________________________ > > Email address: > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the > bottom of page at: > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Email address: > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the > bottom of page at: > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > > _______________________________________________ > > Email address: > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the > bottom of page at: > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > > _______________________________________________ > > Email address: > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the > bottom of page at: > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > > _______________________________________________ > > Email address: > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the > bottom of page at: > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > > > _______________________________________________ > > Email address: > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the > bottom of page at: > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > > >
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