Balancing the boat that way works pretty good, and I do that sometimes. The current draw of the autopilot is very low, around usually 1 to 2 amps while operating, but yes, It is there. It would be of concern if used continuously for several days without charging the battery. Ahmet
On Tue, Jan 26, 2016 at 5:14 PM, Mark McMenamy via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Thanks Ahmet. I've been reading a looking at youtube videos of ways to > rig the boat bungee/ thr head sail sheet as an autopilot depending the > point of sail. It seems to work very well. I was looking at a tiller > pilot too, but of course there's a current draw. > > Mark > > Mark McMenamy > "Icicle" C&C 25 > Fort Pierce FL > > On Jan 26, 2016, at 4:41 PM, Ahmet via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote: > > Every sailboat I had had an autopilot or a tillerpilot. > I do singlehand often and find it part of the essential equipment. > Yes, I can balance it and go for quite a while without using the pilot on > a close houl or beam reach, but that does not substitute for the auopilot. > > The main limit for motoring is that I am estimating my fuel consumption to > be about 1 gal./hour on my 9.9 HP Tohatsu 4 stroke > Ahmet > C&C 25 "Tabasco" > Boston, MA > > On Tue, Jan 26, 2016 at 2:17 PM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > >> Mark, >> >> The 25 is a stiff little boat and should make the trip without incident. >> All I can say is to plan ahead and don’t try to keep to a schedule. Give >> yourself several options for staying overnight if you don’t plan to sail >> after dark. I’ve covered 50 nm in a day on Half Magic during a delivery >> to a regatta but would have been much happier covering 2/3 that distance >> and relaxed a bit more. You can motor all day at 5 kts in relatively calm >> water but sooner or later you’ll want to take a break from the tiller and >> the constant drone of the engine. Sometimes, especially in a shallow >> enclosed bay, you get more “hobby horsing” over the short waves when the >> breeze comes up, which would be annoying trying to keep the prop in the >> water. Yet if you go outside to the Atlantic where the waves may be larger, >> but more spaced apart, it is more likely that your ride will be more >> comfortable and friendly to the engine. Just be wary of lee shores when >> the wind is off the water. >> >> And with only 3’10” of draft, you’ll be able to go most everywhere in the >> Keys. What fun! >> >> Chuck Gilchrest >> >> Half Magic >> >> 1975 25 Mk 1 >> >> S/V Orion >> >> 1983 35 Landfall >> >> Padanaram, MA >> >> >> >> >> >> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Mark >> McMenamy via CnC-List >> *Sent:* Tuesday, January 26, 2016 1:50 PM >> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com >> *Cc:* Mark McMenamy <markm...@msn.com> >> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List C&C 25 Info >> >> >> >> Thanks. I've been wondering how using the engine would play out. During >> our sailing lessons we've always been in shore, never any real rough chop. >> I'll be using the Fort Pierce inlet which is one of the more benign inlets >> here in FL, but at times it for sure can get choppy, even if it's not low >> tide with and easterly wind. >> >> >> >> I was curious if people ever take these on longer trips? I was thinking >> of going down to the keys but I'm not quite sure how feasible that is. >> It's just my wife and I and we've done a lot of camping etc. It's a little >> over 100 nm to get down there. >> >> >> >> Thanks again for the info. >> >> >> >> Mark >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> Mark McMenamy >> >> "Icicle" C&C 25 >> >> Fort Pierce FL >> >> >> On Jan 26, 2016, at 10:46 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List < >> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: >> >> Mark, >> >> I can just say that it happens on occasion and it is totally driven by >> the sea state and wind direction. Because of that, I will try my best to >> sail using a 100% jib and reefed main in anything up to 25+ knots on the >> nose. When I need to motor due to time constraints (or seasick crew) >> heading directly into the wind and waves keeps the motor in the water >> better than a heavy quartering sea which rolls the boat to leeward. Also >> motor sailing seems to reduce cavitation sailing off the breeze as the boat >> tends to “squat ” a bit to stern when under sail, maybe due to the weight >> of the crew and an 85lb motor hanging off the stern. I’ve learned to pick >> and choose my days a bit more carefully when it comes to transiting longer >> distances just to keep the crew comfy and the boat in one piece. >> >> Chuck >> >> >> >> Chuck Gilchrest >> >> Half Magic >> >> 1975 25 Mk 1 >> >> S/V Orion >> >> 1983 35 Landfall >> >> Padanaram, MA >> >> >> >> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com >> <cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>] *On Behalf Of *Mark McMenamy via >> CnC-List >> *Sent:* Tuesday, January 26, 2016 9:24 AM >> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com >> *Cc:* Mark McMenamy <markm...@msn.com> >> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List C&C 25 Info >> >> >> >> Thanks Chuck. Mine originally had a Vire 7 as well. >> >> >> >> I have a 20" outboard as well. How often do you have trouble with the >> engine cavitating? >> >> >> >> Mark >> >> Mark McMenamy >> >> "Icicle" C&C 25 >> >> Fort Pierce FL >> >> >> On Jan 26, 2016, at 9:19 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List < >> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: >> >> Mark, >> >> I wish I had a viable solution, but I really don’t. My plywood backing >> plate inside the transom is ½” marine plywood as previously mentioned and >> it is epoxy bonded in place and through bolted with the 4 ½” motor mount >> bolts with large fender washers to spread out the loads. I would say that >> the spacing of the motor mount bolts is roughly 8” on centers, but the >> backing plate is easily 18” wide and 13” high. I repainted Half Magic >> with 2 part Polyurethane several years ago and took care to fill any cracks >> or crazing caused by the motor induced transom flex. All was good until I >> had to come across Buzzards Bay in 4 ft seas into the wind. Whenever the >> prop would come out of the water coming down a wave, the poor transom would >> flex enough that the cracks showed up again…. And yes, I have a long shaft >> motor with a 20” leg, but given a second choice on the motor, should have >> chosen the Xtra long shaft 25” leg. >> >> Also, my boat was originally outfitted with the Vire 7hp inboard motor, >> so perhaps my transom was more lightly built from the onset, but somehow >> doubt that C&C would use a lighter duty layup on a boat by boat basis. >> >> Chuck Gilchrest >> >> Half Magic >> >> 1975 25 Mk 1 >> >> S/V Orion >> >> 1983 35 Landfall >> >> Padanaram, MA >> >> >> >> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com >> <cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>] *On Behalf Of *Mark McMenamy via >> CnC-List >> *Sent:* Tuesday, January 26, 2016 9:03 AM >> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com >> *Cc:* Mark McMenamy <markm...@msn.com> >> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List C&C 25 Info >> >> >> >> Hi Chuck, >> >> >> >> I have small hairline stress cracks behind the outboard as well. I asked >> the yard to look at it. He wasn't too concerned but asked that I bring it >> back when it is warmer because it's hard to get gel coat to cure with the >> cold weather we've been having. Behind my transom there is a metal backing >> plate that has been added to greater support the engine. However, it still >> has gotten some small cracks outside. I'm wondering what I need to do to >> keep this from happening again after I repair the gel coat. The metal >> backing plate is kept in place with the motor mount bolts as well as three >> bolts that go through the transom. The inside metal backing plate is >> not quite flush with the transom due to imperfections in the fiberglass. >> The surveyor thought this to be the cause of the cracks and recommended >> removing the engine and the backing plate, milling down the fiberglass so >> it is flat, and reinstalling. But to be honest, it seems like the mount >> itself just puts too much strain on the transom gel coat. I was wondering >> if it needed a piece of wood or fiberglass perhaps added in between the >> mount and the transom to disperse the weight of the mount? >> >> >> >> Thanks for the help. Also, I'll look into it he backing plated as well. >> >> >> >> Mark >> >> Mark McMenamy >> >> "Icicle" C&C 25 >> >> Fort Pierce FL >> >> >> On Jan 26, 2016, at 8:40 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List < >> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: >> >> Hi Mark, >> >> Congratulations on your new 25 Mk1. I’ve owned Half Magic, a 1975 model >> 25 Mk 1 since 2001 and it has served my family and me very well as a casual >> racer, day sailor and weekend cruiser. If you’re just mounting the >> outboard and upgrading from a smaller and perhaps lighter outboard, you may >> want to reinforce the transom behind the outboard mount. I upgraded from a >> 9.9 Evinrude 2 stroke Sail Twin to a 9.8 Nissan 4 stroke (at the time the >> lightest 4 stroke on the market) and have noticed stress cracks on the >> transom around the motor mount caused by the motor hobby horsing in the >> choppy conditions of Buzzards Bay. And my transom has a large ½” marine >> plywood backing plate glassed-in behind the outboard mount that is far >> larger than the mount. Bottom line, the transom of these boats were not >> designed for the weight of today’s larger outboards. I would have opted >> for a smaller outboard, but wanted the alternator output for charging >> batteries while motoring as well as the electric start for times when you >> need to get the motor running NOW. We also have several areas in our >> cruising grounds such as Woods Hole where currents can run upwards of 4 kts >> so having a bit of extra power isn’t a bad thing. >> >> >> >> When replacing the standing rigging, it would be an ideal time to remove >> and re-bed the chainplates and covers with 3M 4200 as they are prone to >> leakage. Additionally, many of the boats produced in the mid 1970s had >> gate valves on cockpit drains and through hulls rather than proper ball >> valve seacocks. Same with hoses and hose clamps. Replacing them now >> while your boat is not sailing might keep your boat from sinking one day. >> >> Compared to the Capri 25, your boat has way more interior space, and >> stand up headroom for anyone under 5’7” down below. Not too many 25 ft. >> boats can brag of that! >> >> Welcome to the C&C list, as it is a great resource and an addictive >> distraction during the work day! >> >> Best, >> >> Chuck Gilchrest >> >> Half Magic >> >> 1975 25 Mk1 >> >> >> >> S/V Orion >> >> 1983 35 Landfall >> >> Padanaram, MA >> >> >> >> *Sent:* Monday, January 25, 2016 8:54 PM >> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com >> *Cc:* Mark McMenamy <markm...@msn.com> >> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List C&C 25 Info >> >> >> >> Hi Ahmet, >> >> >> >> I'm lucky to have had the former owner put self tailing winches. It also >> has new Doyle sails and a new Suzuki 9.9hp outboard. >> >> >> >> That's all I have for a HIN. >> >> >> >> Mark >> >> >> >> On Jan 25, 2016, at 8:31 PM, Ahmet via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >> wrote: >> >> Not sure, but I can send you privately my previous discussions. >> >> New standing rigging is a good thing. Is there a plaque on the inside of >> the transom that actually shows the hull id. ? >> >> I did move the stanctions to the toe-rail, and added a electical bilge >> pump. >> >> I also replaced the winches with old aftermarket Lewmar T 30 self-tailing >> winches. >> >> I am replacing the washers for the keel bolts because they were very >> rusty. >> >> Ahmet >> >> >> >> On Mon, Jan 25, 2016 at 7:49 PM, Mark McMenamy via CnC-List < >> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: >> >> Hello, >> >> >> >> Thanks for the reply. It's ZCC255260976. I'm not quite sure how these >> forums work. Can I search for what you posted before and save you some >> typing? >> >> >> >> I actually haven't sailed it yet because it needs new standing rigging. >> It should be finished early next week. My only experience sailing is a >> Capri 25 so I appreciate the feedback. >> >> >> >> Thanks, >> >> >> >> Mark >> >> >> On Jan 25, 2016, at 7:42 PM, Ahmet via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >> wrote: >> >> I just bought one last August and love it. >> >> A good friend has one too, so we race all the time. His is a 1974. >> >> What is your hull ID. Let me know what you want to know. I posted a few >> things in the past, and there is some pretty good info on the web. >> >> Ahmet >> >> 1973 C&C 25 "Tabasco" >> >> Winthrop, MA >> >> >> >> On Mon, Jan 25, 2016 at 7:35 PM, Mark McMenamy via CnC-List < >> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: >> >> Hello, >> >> My name is Mark McMenamy. I'm a new owner of a nice 1976 C&C 25 mk I as >> well as a new sailer.....I'm a reformed power boater. I was curious if >> anyone had information about the designer of this boat or any stories about >> her development. I was told it's a Hinterhoeller design, but I haven't >> been able to verify this. I just love this little boat and would >> appreciate to know a little of her backstory. >> >> Thanks a million, >> >> Mark >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Email address: >> CnC-List@cnc-list.com >> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the >> bottom of page at: >> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Email address: >> CnC-List@cnc-list.com >> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the >> bottom of page at: >> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Email address: >> CnC-List@cnc-list.com >> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the >> bottom of page at: >> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com >> >> >> >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Email address: >> CnC-List@cnc-list.com >> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the >> bottom of page at: >> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com >> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Email address: >> CnC-List@cnc-list.com >> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the >> bottom of page at: >> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com >> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Email address: >> CnC-List@cnc-list.com >> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the >> bottom of page at: >> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com >> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Email address: >> CnC-List@cnc-list.com >> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the >> bottom of page at: >> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Email address: >> CnC-List@cnc-list.com >> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the >> bottom of page at: >> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com >> >> >> > _______________________________________________ > > Email address: > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the > bottom of page at: > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > > > _______________________________________________ > > Email address: > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the > bottom of page at: > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > > >
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