You get waves in Buzzards Bay that would cavitate an outboard...?

Cant be...

David F. Risch
1981 40-2
(401) 419-4650 (cell)


To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 2016 10:46:01 -0500
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 25 Info
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
CC: csgilchr...@comcast.net

Mark,I can just say that it happens on occasion and it is totally driven by the 
sea state and wind direction.  Because of that, I will try my best to sail 
using a 100% jib and reefed main in anything up to 25+ knots on the nose.  When 
I need to motor due to time constraints (or seasick crew) heading directly into 
the wind and waves keeps the motor in the water better than a heavy quartering 
sea which rolls the boat to leeward.  Also motor sailing seems to reduce 
cavitation sailing off the breeze as the boat tends to “squat ” a bit to stern 
when under sail, maybe due to the weight of the crew and an 85lb motor hanging 
off the stern.  I’ve learned to pick and choose my days a bit more carefully 
when it comes to transiting longer distances just to keep the crew comfy and 
the boat in one piece.Chuck Chuck GilchrestHalf Magic 1975 25 Mk 1S/V Orion1983 
35 LandfallPadanaram, MA From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] 
On Behalf Of Mark McMenamy via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, January 26, 2016 9:24 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Mark McMenamy <markm...@msn.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 25 Info Thanks Chuck.  Mine originally had a Vire 7 
as well. I have a 20" outboard as well.   How often do you have trouble with 
the engine cavitating? Mark

Mark McMenamy "Icicle" C&C 25Fort Pierce FL
On Jan 26, 2016, at 9:19 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:Mark,I wish I had a viable solution, but I really 
don’t.  My plywood backing plate inside the transom is ½” marine plywood as 
previously mentioned and it is epoxy bonded in place and through bolted with 
the 4  ½” motor mount bolts with large fender washers to spread out the loads.  
 I would say that the spacing of the motor mount bolts is roughly 8” on 
centers, but the backing plate is easily 18” wide and 13” high.   I repainted 
Half Magic with 2 part Polyurethane several years ago and took care to fill any 
cracks or crazing caused by the motor induced transom flex.  All was good until 
I had to come across Buzzards Bay in 4 ft seas into the wind.  Whenever the 
prop would come out of the water coming down a wave, the poor transom would 
flex enough that the cracks showed up again…. And yes, I have a long shaft 
motor with a 20” leg, but given a second choice on the motor, should have 
chosen the Xtra long shaft 25” leg.Also, my boat was originally outfitted with 
the Vire 7hp inboard motor, so perhaps my transom was more lightly built from 
the onset, but somehow doubt that C&C would use a lighter duty layup on a boat 
by boat basis.Chuck GilchrestHalf Magic1975 25 Mk 1S/V Orion1983 35 
LandfallPadanaram, MA From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On 
Behalf Of Mark McMenamy via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, January 26, 2016 9:03 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Mark McMenamy <markm...@msn.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 25 Info Hi Chuck, I have small hairline stress 
cracks behind the outboard as well.  I asked the yard to look at it.  He wasn't 
too concerned but asked that I bring it back when it is warmer because it's 
hard to get gel coat to cure with the cold weather we've been having.  Behind 
my transom there is a metal backing plate that has been added to greater 
support the engine.  However, it still has gotten some small cracks outside.  
I'm wondering what I need to do to keep this from happening again after I 
repair the gel coat.  The metal backing plate is kept in place with the motor 
mount bolts as well as three bolts that go through the transom.      The inside 
metal backing plate is not quite flush with the transom due to imperfections in 
the fiberglass.  The surveyor thought this to be the cause of the cracks and 
recommended removing the engine and the backing plate, milling down the 
fiberglass so it is flat, and reinstalling.  But to be honest, it seems like 
the mount itself just puts too much strain on the transom gel coat.  I was 
wondering if it needed a piece of wood or fiberglass perhaps added in between 
the mount and the transom to disperse the weight of the mount?   Thanks for the 
help.  Also, I'll look into it he backing plated as well. Mark

Mark McMenamy "Icicle" C&C 25Fort Pierce FL
On Jan 26, 2016, at 8:40 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:Hi Mark,Congratulations on your new 25 Mk1.  I’ve 
owned Half Magic, a 1975 model 25 Mk 1 since 2001 and it has served my family 
and me very well as a casual racer, day sailor and weekend cruiser.  If you’re 
just mounting the outboard and upgrading from a smaller and perhaps lighter 
outboard, you may want to reinforce the transom behind the outboard mount.  I 
upgraded from a 9.9 Evinrude 2 stroke Sail Twin to a 9.8 Nissan 4 stroke (at 
the time the lightest 4 stroke on the market) and have noticed stress cracks on 
the transom around the motor mount caused by the motor hobby horsing in the 
choppy conditions of Buzzards Bay.    And my transom has a large ½” marine 
plywood backing plate glassed-in behind the outboard mount that is far larger 
than the mount.  Bottom line, the transom of these boats were not designed for 
the weight of today’s larger outboards.    I would have opted for a smaller 
outboard, but wanted the alternator output for charging batteries while 
motoring as well as the electric start for times when you need to get the motor 
running NOW.  We also have several areas in our cruising grounds such as Woods 
Hole where currents can run upwards of 4 kts so having a bit of extra power 
isn’t a bad thing. When replacing the standing rigging, it would be an ideal 
time to remove and re-bed the chainplates and covers with 3M 4200 as they are 
prone to leakage.  Additionally, many of the boats produced in the mid 1970s 
had gate valves on cockpit drains and through hulls rather than proper ball 
valve seacocks.   Same with hoses and hose clamps.   Replacing them now while 
your boat is not sailing might keep your boat from sinking one day.Compared to 
the Capri 25, your boat has way more interior space, and stand up headroom for 
anyone under 5’7” down below.  Not too many 25 ft. boats can brag of 
that!Welcome to the C&C list, as it is a great resource and an addictive 
distraction during the work day!Best,Chuck GilchrestHalf Magic1975 25 Mk1 S/V 
Orion1983 35 Landfall Padanaram, MA Sent: Monday, January 25, 2016 8:54 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Mark McMenamy <markm...@msn.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 25 Info Hi Ahmet, I'm lucky to have had the former 
owner put self tailing winches.  It also has new Doyle sails and a new Suzuki 
9.9hp outboard.  That's all I have for a HIN. Mark On Jan 25, 2016, at 8:31 PM, 
Ahmet via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:Not sure, but I can send you 
privately my previous discussions. New standing rigging is a good thing. Is 
there a plaque on the inside of the transom that actually shows the hull id.  
?I did move the stanctions to the toe-rail, and added a electical bilge pump. I 
also replaced the winches with old aftermarket Lewmar T 30 self-tailing 
winches.I am replacing the washers for the keel bolts because they were very 
rusty.Ahmet On Mon, Jan 25, 2016 at 7:49 PM, Mark McMenamy via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:Hello, Thanks for the reply.  It's ZCC255260976.  
I'm not quite sure how these forums work.  Can I search for what you posted 
before and save you some typing? I actually haven't sailed it yet because it 
needs new standing rigging.  It should be finished early next week.  My only 
experience sailing is a Capri 25 so I appreciate the feedback.  Thanks, Mark
On Jan 25, 2016, at 7:42 PM, Ahmet via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:I 
just bought one last August and love it.  A good friend has one too, so we race 
all the time. His is a 1974.What is your hull ID. Let me know what you want to 
know. I posted a few things in the past, and there is some pretty good info on 
the web. Ahmet1973 C&C 25 "Tabasco"Winthrop, MA On Mon, Jan 25, 2016 at 7:35 
PM, Mark McMenamy via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:Hello,

My name is Mark McMenamy.  I'm a new owner of a nice 1976 C&C 25  mk I as well 
as a new sailer.....I'm a reformed power boater.  I was curious if anyone had 
information about the designer of this boat or any stories about her 
development.   I was told it's a Hinterhoeller design, but I haven't been able 
to verify this.  I just love this little boat and would appreciate to know a 
little of her backstory.

Thanks a million,

Mark


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