Necessity is the mother of .. invention?
I went around and around in my tender 10 times (we were counting turns in
case we needed to know when re-assembling) .. until I realized I was being
stupid :)
Steve
C&C 32 Suhana
Toronto
On Thu, May 14, 2015 at 10:23 PM, robert via CnC-List wrote:
> Wal
Russ,
So calling a halyard an "uppy downy" line and a sheet an "inny outy" line
doesn't work? :)
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
On Fri, May 15, 2015 at 12:12 AM, Russ & Melody via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> Rob,
>
> I can understand your confusion with a term you ar
Russ:
No worries mate.no offense taken! I am probably just as punctilious
as you are!
And while you have done a commendable job nudging me back to the
terminology 'through bolt' , I will probably continue to reference this
piece of rigging as a 'tie bar'.
From Merriam Webster's:
I do things and things are done to me ...
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of robert via
CnC-List
Sent: Friday, May 15, 2015 10:14 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: robert
Subject: Stus-List Rig - crack -> terms
Russ:
No worries mate.no offense taken! I am pro
Hi Martin,
I bought a 29-2 in the US in the spring of 2012.
The original prop (think it was C&C original) was a fixed 2 blade - Federal
Sailor 14RH9.
Prop walk was bad with this prop.
In the spring of 2013, I swapped the prop for a used CDI, 3 blade feathering
prop with a 13 inch diameter. T
Dennis,
This made a laugh of the day for me.
Do you have any more of those?
Love this list!
Marek
C320 in Hamilton
On Fri, May 15, 2015 at 8:50 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> Russ,
>
> So calling a halyard an "uppy downy" line and a sheet an "inny outy" line
> does
Maybe this has been asked or covered before? Has anyone experienced
transmission fluid leaking from the rear of their transmission? I suspect
it is a rear seal that has worn or gone bad. Were you able to have the seal
replaced with the transmission in the boat or did you have to remove the
trans
Don't forget about using a floating spring line if you need to back out to
starboard.
Tie off one end of the line to your starboard stern cleat, then run it around
the rear piling and back to the cockpit.
As you are reversing, slight tension on the line keeps your stern from going to
port. Onc
I didn't see the original post but it sounds like the prop walk is a
challenge .. it was for me too, and it continues to be sometimes (docked to
port on the windward side of a dock needing to back out). Anyway, it's
really useful sometimes .. I use the backing turn all the time! Lock the
wheel hard
Martin, your situation sounds exactly like mine in regards to how extreme
the prop walk is .. I can't get the bow to point to port when there's wind
on my starboard beam, the stern just goes port etc. No combination of
punching the throttle and shifting into neutral works for me when there's
about
Yeah, and you have to use the colour it is.
As in, pull the red "inny outy" on the left side.
Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1
At 05:50 AM 15/05/2015, you wrote:
Russ,
So calling a halyard an "uppy downy" line and a
sheet an "inny outy" line doesn't work? :)
Dennis C.
Touche'
Don't have any as good as those. They were used by a friend to tell his
wife what to do. She couldn't grasp any nautical terms whatsoever.
One of my favorites was coined by a lister, Wally. One many older C&C's
there is a metal plate on the deck to which a bulkhead bracket is
fastened. Wally c
God forbid you use "red fleck" or "red trace" for the white lines.
Dennis C.
On Fri, May 15, 2015 at 11:24 AM, Russ & Melody via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Yeah, and you have to use the colour it is.
>
> As in, pull the red "inny outy" on the left side.
>
> Cheers, Russ
Michael
I expect you are right about the impeller vs screw analogy, because while the
12x6 is correctly sized going forward given the 2.21:1 gear box, vs the 2:62:1
that is most common in 2GMs, it needs to spin faster in reverse than a prop
that was properly sized for a 2.62:1 gearbox.
So i
Don't forget about the "Parking hook", otherwise known as an anchor.
Doug MountjoysvPegasusLF38 just west of Ballard, WA.
-- Original message--From: Marek Fluder via CnC-ListDate: Fri, May 15,
2015 07:51To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com;Cc: Marek Fluder;Subject:Re: Stus-List Rig
Not I, but I have trimmed a spinny while holding a red line with white tracer.
My spinny inny outty is green with white tracer, both sides. :)
Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1
At 09:27 AM 15/05/2015, you wrote:
God forbid you use "red fleck" or "red trace" for the white lines.
Den
I could be wrong, but my understanding is the prop walk is caused by the
fact that the prop shaft on a sailboat is almost never horizontal (except
for a Sail Drive). This has the effect of increasing the pitch on one side
of the prop while reducing it on the other. It's possible (I think) the
eff
On Pegasus I replaced my 18x12 2 blade, with a 18x11 3 blade. The 3 blade
has much less prop walk and I can stop. Both props are fixed pitch as my old
transmission doesn't care if the shaft turns.
Doug MountjoysvPegasusLF38 just west of Ballard, WA.
-- Original message--F
You nailed it Steve.
Here's a graphic & description of the back & fill.
http://www.boatsafe.com/nauticalknowhow/backfill.htm
(no affiliation to site, blah blah)
I will caution that the ubiquitous furled jib can
play havoc with this action if it's windy.
It was 1983 that I learned this maneuv
Hi Brad,
I did this on my 2QM20 with Kanzaki gearbox.
Output flange removal can be difficult because of the tight space and
if I remember correctly there is a locking tab that gets pushed out
of the way before trying to remove nut.
I had to do it at sea once (off Pachena Point, rolling sea, lo
Prop walk is a function of the asymmetrical thrust produced by the angle
of the shaft / rotational angle of the blades vs the water surface. The
more downward angle on the prop / the longer the blade has to travel going
from bottom towards the surface compared to the blade that goes from top
t
I'm doing the same thing, check this link:
http://www.tartan3500.com/uploads/3/1/1/9/3119926/replacetransmissionseal.pdf
Bruno Lachance
Bécassine, 33 mkII
Date: Fri, 15 May 2015 11:23:21 -0700
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Kanzaki KBW10 Transmission Leakage
From: cnc-list@cnc-li
Remove the transmission (easy job). The seal has to be pressed into the
housing. I had a little trouble because my zinc anode was too far forward, and
I couldn't move the shaft back after disconnecting the coupling. When you
reconnect the coupling, you can check your alignment with a feeler ga
Listers, please give me advice.
Due to inferior steel, a cotter ring has rusted badly, and I am unable to
remove the remnants from the pin.
So far, a hardened-steel drill bit (Irwin brand) is simply enlarging the hole
around the edges, but not removing the ring remnants.
Is there chemical solutio
If the cotter ring is garbage metal, it should grind easily. Grind the
remnants flat to the clevis pin. Remove the pin. Throw it away. Buy a
new clevis pin. Use a stainless cotter ring.
Clevis pins can be found here:
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=1944
o
Well, this might be just the right time to float a theory I’ve had for some
time about “prop walk”. Here it is:
When the propellor is spinning, it produces a rotating horizontal column or
spinning cylinder of water molecules which move away from the propellor along
its axis. When the boat is g
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