Pour penetrating oil down the cable interior and let it set for a day. Also
look for a small u-bolt clamp on the cable that is often used to prevent
throttle slippage. If there is one, try loosening it. Best solution is to
replace the cable. Yours is likely 30 or so years old and a bit tired.
Good stuff!
Rich
> On Apr 27, 2014, at 22:42, David Knecht wrote:
>
> I forgot to report back on this one. It turns out the the new impeller came
> with 2 O rings and I had presumed they were the same. In fact, one was
> larger than the other and when I tried the other O ring, it stayed in
Replace the cable!! Based on unpleasant experience a stiff cable will break at
the threads at the most inconvenient time. They aren't as expensive as the
damage that could be done if it breaks while in gear at the wrong time.
Don Newman
C&C 44
> On Apr 27, 2014, at 22:49, Eric Frank wrote:
>
Peter
When you remove it for shipping be aware Locktite was used when
assembling the foil sections. Use heat (propane or butane torch) until
it sizzles and then the set screws will come out.
I learned this the hard way
Mike
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On B
Agreed - replace! Not necessarily because it will or has rusted at the threads,
but likely that it is rusted inside! Mine rusted and then failed completely -
fortunately it was at the dock and I had time to replace it. It jammed down
inside of the sheathing (they are made up of a spring-wound fl
Mine broke at the SS threads due to being stiff for a long time resulting in
fatigue break. The length in inches should be on it. I just got a 22 ft one
(more expensive version than original Morse) for $80.
Significantly less resistance than the one for $20 less.
Don Newman
C&C 44
> On Apr 2
Correction. It's a Moyer Marine, not an Obendorfer pump.
Searched the Moyer forums to no avail and will be contacting Moyer directly.
Bob M
Ox 33-1
Jax, FL
On Sun, Apr 27, 2014 at 9:11 PM, bobmor99 . wrote:
> This is more of a question for Moyer Marine but there are still some C&Cs
> with A-4s.
SO, Its time to change the shift cable on my 1981 C&C30 MK1. The cable that
is there now has always been tight and hard to shift. Is there a better
style or different cable to make the shifting easier? I just got back from
the BVI we Where we rented a 36-I and it shifted very nice. I have never
own
Take the old cable out, measure it, buy a new one and install it. If you can
easily measure the length of the existing cable, buy the new one first so you
can do the r&r in one session. You have to remove the compass to get at the
binnacle end. Assuming you have a Ritchie compass, start with th
This turned into a very big project on my 1981 '34. I had a metal pedestal that
needed to be disassembled to get at the cable (which was frayed) and the
hardware was so badly rusted/frozen that it turned out installing a whole new
pedestal made more sense. I now have the more modern style shifte
It may not be that simple. The machine screws holding my binnacle together
had welded to the aluminum. It took heat, PB Blaster and an impact
screwdriver to get it apart so I could get the old cable disconnected. My
binnacle has the two lever setup like Curtis's. Once that came out, the rest
wa
I just finish the major winter project on Windburn last Thursday, which was
good since launch was Saturday.
Part of it was replacing the transmission cable which was stiff for years but
became very stiff last summer.
Windburn is a C&C 30-1 with the Atomic 4 ( Stevedore ) engine and the Paragon
I do have the Ritche style stand I have all ready had it apart one
time to lube the chane on the steering as a maintenance item.
On 4/28/14, Gary Nylander wrote:
> It may not be that simple. The machine screws holding my binnacle together
> had welded to the aluminum. It took heat, PB Blaster and
Advice on diameter material and length appreciated for spinnaker sheets on an
LF38.
Thanks
Dan Shee
Pegathy LF38
Rock Creek off the Patapsco
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Do both cables, throttle and shift. You will likely have to unmount the
pedistal to feed the cable anyway and once is better than having to do it
again in a few years. There may also be other hardware that needs worked
so be prepared.
West Marine sells teleflex cables. They have a base model an
Smartphone innovations never cease to amaze me . . .
http://www.irishexaminer.com/ireland/students-invention-outsmarts-smartphone
s-while-at-sea-266110.html
Bill Coleman
C&C 39
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My Lifeline deep cycle size 31 battery has died after +7 years of use as a
starting battery.
I do not cruise, except occasional (mostly motor) trips to different local (<
25 miles) racing venues. Thus I only carry one
battery in the interests of both weight and use.
Since it died the morning
I dunno, but red cables tend to be Morse cables.
I was once told that Volvo/Penta actually made good 'pre-measured'
cables as well. I scoffed at the time, but trusted the guy and replaced
my throttle/tranny cables with those. Note, I am not endorsing
Volvo-Penta engines, just the cables. Th
Charlie:
Lots of open questions there but a single group 31 does seem a bit small for a
34/36. Certainly enough reserve to run electronics for a day of racing so long
as there is no refrigeration involved. If the group 31 worked for you just
pick up any similar sized battery. Sears or Walmar
David,
Used iRegatta for 16 hours. Ran a USB cable up the hatch along the cabin
top to keep it charged. I had the iphone in a RockMount with a baggie over
it. We sailed through thunderstorms and rain. The baggie was essential.
A waterproof pouch has been ordered.
It seems to show the course
I swear by Delco Voyager batteries. They are a pain to procure but I think
they're the best bang for the buck. I have 2 Series 30's on Touche' with a
Xantrex 20+ charger (one of the old ones). I typically replace after 5-6
years but they seem to be going strong at replacement.
Dennis C.
Touche'
I sweat by Trojans. Okay, pulling the plug
you wrote:
I swear by Delco Voyager batteries
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Charlie:
We use Great Northern Batteries, Group 27's..current ones are 7
years oldalways leave them on the boat over the winterchecked
them last week...one was 12.63 V the other was 12.61V. Each battery
weighs 55 lbs.
Even though you don't cruise, mostly a racer, I would still
But which batteries?
On Monday, April 28, 2014, Wally Bryant wrote:
> I sweat by Trojans. Okay, pulling the plug
>
> you wrote:
>
>> I swear by Delco Voyager batteries
>>
>
>
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Sam’s Club has AGM Group 31s for about $170. They are East Penn-Deka batteries,
same as West but half the price.
Joe Della Barba
Coquina
C&C 35 MK I
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Just to point out one basic we all missed - If you’re going to go with just one
battery, make sure its a dual purpose or deep cycle. The grp27 you picked up to
get you by may be a starting battery. I won’t go near the Trojan discussion.
John
On Apr 28, 2014, at 8:28 PM, Joel Aronson wrote:
I have three one for throttle one for the kill and one for shift.
On Mon, Apr 28, 2014 at 7:03 PM, Wally Bryant wrote:
> I dunno, but red cables tend to be Morse cables.
>
> I was once told that Volvo/Penta actually made good 'pre-measured' cables
> as well. I scoffed at the time, but trusted
Seems to me that you might as well continue doing whatever has worked for the
last 7 years with one exception:
Change the battery after 6 years to avoid disaster and embarrassment.
Rich
> On Apr 28, 2014, at 19:31, cenel...@aol.com wrote:
>
> My Lifeline deep cycle size 31 battery has died af
Short video on the various options for folding props..may be of
interest to someFYI
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B4xwJkUfU6o
Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.
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I had very good experience with deep cycle batteries from Costco – provided you
can find a direct replacement. Someone who knows may chime in to say who makes
them (obviously not Costco or Kirkwood).
Marek (in Ottawa)
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Denn
If you want to have just one battery an AGM might be a good option. Keep in
mind that they are much more sensitive to how you charge them and they hate
not be fully charged after each cycle (which is usually a problem, unless
you have solar or shore power).
Marek (in Ottawa)
From: CnC-List
Link to article pdf: http://www.flexofold.com/test-results/
Video has no information except visuals.
Sent from a mobile device.
On Apr 28, 2014 6:26 PM, "Robert Abbott" wrote:
> Short video on the various options for folding props..may be of
> interest to someFYI
>
> http://www.youtube.
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