I just finish the major winter project on Windburn last Thursday, which was good since launch was Saturday. Part of it was replacing the transmission cable which was stiff for years but became very stiff last summer.
Windburn is a C&C 30-1 with the Atomic 4 ( Stevedore ) engine and the Paragon transmission. The forces shifting the Paragon transmission are high due to the design, which use two clutches on a constantly engaged planetary gear hub. I replaced the cable with a Teleflex 6400 TFX Extreme P/N CCX64008, which is available from West Marine: http://www.westmarine.com/teleflex--tfxtreme-6400-bc-performance-cables--P006_184_002_017 In my application I needed the CC cable, takes clamps on both ends, rather then the BC cable which is a bulkhead mount on one end. There does seem to be some confusion between the two parts online. Some notes: 1) I removed the old cable in sub-freezing temperatures, was akin to wrestling re-bar with a sword on each end in a confined space with many hard edges. 2) To get the correct adjustment on the new cable wrap some tape just behind the jam nuts on the end of the old cable. When you have the new cable set the jam nuts at the same distance. 3) If you have an Edson Pedestal and a clamp that has an approximate 10" flat bar affixing the cable inside the pedestal guard tube treat it with care. It appears to be a custom part and I could not find a replacement for it. 4) After thawing out the old cable I clamped it vertically, put a vice grip on the jam nut and was able to lift myself without moving the cable. Although the Teleflex instructions say to not lubricate the cable I did use a pool of penetrating oil at both ends for about a month. Made no difference. 5) After installation I aligned the cable under the cockpit sole for the gentlest and largest diameter radius I could. Now it shifts into forward with a firm finger press on the end of the shift lever. 6) You may find the transmission does not "stick" in reverse even if you pull hard. That may be the way it works if the cable and shifter are very friction free. The forward works by pulling a cone back along the output shaft that forces three fingers outwards, and in turn engages the forward clutch. That seems to stay put. Reverse is a band clutch that is tightened by sliding a wedge of metal causing a bolt to ride up on the ramp. This shows the working parts: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K4CCzYqctv0 There is no adjustment to make reverse stick in gear. There are adjustments if reverse will not engage or neutral is too narrow of a position on the shift cable. 7) On Windburn the small screw that holds the pedestal end cable clamp in place needed to be an exact length. If the screw protrudes threw the clamp it will interfere with the clevis or cable end. 8) On a warm day with no frozen parts I think both the throttle and transmission cables could be replaced in under four hours by one person, maybe as few as two hours. Michael Brown Windburn C&C 30-1 Date: Mon, 28 Apr 2014 06:54:54 -0300 From: Rich Knowles <r...@sailpower.ca> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Subject: Re: Stus-List jammed transmission lever Message-ID: <43244ec0-fa31-4bb1-a74d-72aaf4723...@sailpower.ca> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Pour penetrating oil down the cable interior and let it set for a day. Also look for a small u-bolt clamp on the cable that is often used to prevent throttle slippage. If there is one, try loosening it. Best solution is to replace the cable. Yours is likely 30 or so years old and a bit tired. Rich > On Apr 27, 2014, at 23:49, Eric Frank <efran...@mac.com> wrote: > > Did that - clear result. The lever at the pedestal is still jammed - cable > won't move. But the transmission is easy to shift even by hand, so it's > fine. That seems a good (i.e. easier and cheaper-to-fix) result. Opened the > pedestal, removed the compass, and the shifting mechanism looks fine from the > top view. So seems likely that the cable is rusted, perhaps right down near > where it exits the sheathing and connects to the tranny lever. Would moving > the cable around with pliers right where it exits the sheath, perhaps > squirting with penetrating oil help? Other suggestions? > > Eric > >> You have the first step: disconnect the cable at the lever and see if the >> tx lever moves. >> >> Rich >> >>> On Apr 27, 2014, at 7:36, Eric Frank <efran...@mac.com> wrote: >>> >>> Just replaced the PYI dripless "stuffing box" on Cat's Paw, a 35 C&C Mk II. >>> With lots of help from the list last fall, got the old one out and just >>> replaced it with a new one last weekend. The re-installation went very >>> smoothly and I thought all was well. But when I fired up the Perkins >>> diesel yesterday (still on the hard), the shift lever is stuck in neutral. >>> I noticed that was true last weekend just after the install, but figured >>> the engine needed to be running to get it in gear. No banging needed on the >>> prop shaft to drive the shaft back into the coupling, so I don't think >>> there was any strain on the transmission. Would like advice about where to >>> look for the jam. In the shift lever from the pedestal? In the transmission >>> itself? Maybe disconnect the shift cable from the transmission and see if I >>> can then move the shift lever? Advice from the list soon would be greatly >>> appreciated. Launch date is slated for this week, but if the prop shaft >>> has to be disconnected f rom the tranny to fix things, launch needs to be delayed. >>> >>> Thanks for advice! Don't know what to try. >>> >>> Eric
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