Re: Stus-List Out haul replacement

Dwight Sounds like my system! How did you get the the becket where the line attaches? On Saturday, March 22, 2014, dwight wrote: > Joel > > > > If your internal outhaul rig is anything like mine there is a becket on > each block, and it will probably be rigged similar to the Harken 5:1 > inte

Re: Stus-List Shift cable removal 1983 C&C 37

If there is an acorn but on the aft side of the pedestal knee high that holds a clap for the cables. Joel On Sunday, March 23, 2014, Martin "Mac" McKenzie wrote: > HI all, > > I have a stiff shift cable on my C&C. I have the separate shift and > throttle on either side of the pedestal guard not

Re: Stus-List Out haul replacement

Joel That's why I did not jump in immediately after I read your question because I can not exactly remember where everything attaches but I did the clew outhaul line replacement and it was not a difficult job and the system is like that Harken sytsem.mine has metal blocks and they are not micro

Stus-List NMEA 0183 to NMEA 2000 conversion

Has anyone on the list used the Actisense NGW-1 for a bridge to connect older 0183 instruments to a 2000 network. The plan is to use a B&G 390 system (NMEA 0183 v. 1.5) to feed wind, speed, depth and heading data to B&G Zeus Touch on the 2000 bus. The other alternative is to use a Tinley 0183

Re: Stus-List Out haul replacement

Dwight, Thanks.I have Schaefer blocks in there. I'll have to see if I can pull everything below the sheave box at the end of the boom. The hunt continues! On Sunday, March 23, 2014, dwight wrote: > Joel > > > > That's why I did not jump in immediately after I read your question > because

Stus-List Impeller/gear puller

I need to change my impeller and after an earlier discussion and difficulty removing the present one, I purchased an inexpensive gear puller to remove it.  I tried to use it yesterday and found that there was very little space between the back of the impeller and the housing of the water pump, so I

Re: Stus-List Impeller/gear puller

Check this out: http://www.westmarine.com/jabsco--impeller-puller-tools--P011_335_003_502 Rich > On Mar 23, 2014, at 9:49, David Knecht wrote: > > I need to change my impeller and after an earlier discussion and difficulty > removing the present one, I purchased an inexpensive gear puller to

Re: Stus-List Impeller/gear puller

David What water pump. I have a Sherwood pump on mu Universal M4-30 and I need to be very careful when pulling the impellor off the shaft not to disengage the impellor drive shaft out altogether.if I do that the job of impellor replacement instantaneously becomes a much bigger job. _

Re: Stus-List Impeller/gear puller

Rich Knowles wrote: Check this out: http://www.westmarine.com/jabsco--impeller-puller-tools--P011_335_003_502 Rich On Mar 23, 2014, at 9:49, David Knecht > wrote: I need to change my impeller and after an earlier discussion and difficulty removing the present

Re: Stus-List Impeller/gear puller

Bay Shore Marine in Annapolis makes an impeller puller. It ;looks like a bent hemostat. I've also used needle nosed pliers. Joel On Sunday, March 23, 2014, Bill Connon wrote: > Rich Knowles wrote: > >> Check this out: >> >> http://www.westmarine.com/jabsco--impeller-puller-tools--P011_335_003

Stus-List Prop Anti-fouling Paint

Bob's 'personal performance guarantee' goes like this"if it doesn't work for you, try something else". I am willing to bet this stuff is no different than any regular anti fouling bottom paint..they just suck us in by putting it in an aresol spray can. So who is going to be the first

Re: Stus-List Prop Anti-fouling Paint

I'll split a can with you, Bob. We'll discuss the performance bond. Rich > On Mar 23, 2014, at 11:16, Robert Abbott wrote: > > Bob's 'personal performance guarantee' goes like this"if it doesn't work > for you, try something else". > > I am willing to bet this stuff is no different than

Stus-List Shift cable removal 1983 C&C 37

Mac, the cables (at least on my boat) are called Morris cables. The cable consists of a outer housing and an inner core that transfers the motion from the shift cable to the transmission. The outer housing is usually clamped to something solid on both ends so that the inner core is free to mov

Re: Stus-List Prop Anti-fouling Paint

I used the Petit prop paint on my Max Prop last year and when we hauled it was pretty clean; little weed and no barnacles. I still have half a can so I will be applying it again this year. Andy C&C 40 Peregrine Andrew Burton 61 W Narragansett Newport, RI USA02840 http://sites.google.com/s

Re: Stus-List Shift cable removal 1983 C&C 37

Morse cable, not Morris. Andy Andrew Burton 61 W Narragansett Newport, RI USA02840 http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/ +401 965-5260 > On Mar 23, 2014, at 10:43, Robert Boyer wrote: > > Mac, the cables (at least on my boat) are called Morris cables. The cable > co

Stus-List Prop Anti-fouling Paint

So my 'exorcism' worked.now the mussels are growing on your prop. Rob On 2014/03/23 11:41 AM, Rich Knowles wrote: I'll split a can with you, Bob. We'll discuss the performance bond. Rich On Mar 23, 2014, at 11:16, Robert Abbott wrote: Bob's 'personal performance guarantee' goes like

Re: Stus-List Prop Anti-fouling Paint

Bob Like I suggested last year I think you should try your Micron 66...but before applying anything and do clean the prop surface well with acetone wipes before application...don't use brasso to shine the prop because it leaves an oily residue which will affect adherence of any coating...If I had

Re: Stus-List Shift cable removal 1983 C&C 37

I think that is Morse cables but Teleflex are just as good. Make sure you get a cable with the right throw.a cable with a 4 inch throw is usually adequate _ From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Robert Boyer Sent: March 23, 2014 11:44 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-l

Re: Stus-List Impeller/gear puller

David,Forget if you have the Universal M4-30 like me and Dwight?  Many 34plusses were built w Yanmar.Here's what I do after getting much advice from this list over the years:I pull the raw water pump impeller of my Sherwood every Fall and stow it with the key in a sandwich bag to remind me to put i

Re: Stus-List Prop Anti-fouling Paint

We'll see. Stand by. Rich > On Mar 23, 2014, at 11:50, Robert Abbott wrote: > > So my 'exorcism' worked.now the mussels are growing on your prop. > > Rob > > > >> On 2014/03/23 11:41 AM, Rich Knowles wrote: >> I'll split a can with you, Bob. We'll discuss the performance bond. >> >> R

Re: Stus-List Impeller/gear puller

Hi Swight- This sounds like something I don’t want to have happen. I gather that if I pull with pliers, it might happen? So I really need an impeller puller? Dave On Mar 23, 2014, at 9:00 AM, dwight wrote: > David > > What water pump. I have a Sherwood pump on mu Universal M4-30 and I ne

Re: Stus-List Impeller/gear puller

Hi Chuck et al.- I have the M4-30. This is the first time I have had the water pump apart so I have no idea when the impeller was last removed. I will certainly keep it out for future winters, but I need to get it off to start the process. I actually bought a new one that can run dry for some

Re: Stus-List Impeller/gear puller

David, Tip 1: You should be able to free the impellor by bending/moving one rubber vane tip, one at a time clear of the bronze housing. Start w the straighter ones and just nudge the tip away from the housing and let return. Do each one, one at a time, all the way round or enough to free the i

Re: Stus-List Impeller/gear puller

Yea, just push in on the impellor drive shaft with a finger on one hand (for me the left hand) and pull on the impellor rubber blades outward and with a twist with the other hand as chuck described.you don't want to pull that drive shaft out and you don't want to lose the key in the keyway if possi

Re: Stus-List Impeller/gear puller

Dave, Don't over think this, really. Get some needle nose pliers (ones with curved nose great) and a small phillips screwdiver. Put the screwdiver on the center drive shaft and apply enough inward pressure to counteract your pulling on the impeller. You should have no problem. Bill Walke

Re: Stus-List Impeller/gear puller

David Hardest part is getting the cover off the pump; the nuts on those bolts are hard to get at and you may have to use a knife edge to pry the cover free. I haven't changed an impellor in 5 or maybe 6 years but I carry spares. I winterize my raw water system with 50/50 ethylene glycol water mix

Re: Stus-List Impeller/gear puller

And lubricate the new impellor before installing.I use messy vasoline _ From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Chuck S Sent: March 23, 2014 12:54 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Impeller/gear puller David, Tip 1: You should be ab

Stus-List Wiring

I have to run some new wire for a solar panel and the tank monitor.  I was at West Marine yesterday looking at wire and I had the option of duplex wire or single strand wire.  The duplex was significantly cheaper per foot since it included both wires instead of buying each  color separately.  But I

Re: Stus-List Wiring

No. Joe Della Barba j...@dellabarba.com Coquina From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David Knecht Sent: Sunday, March 23, 2014 1:01 PM To: CnC CnC discussion list Subject: Stus-List Wiring I have to run some new wire for a so

Re: Stus-List Wiring

That's the best way to go. Rich > On Mar 23, 2014, at 14:01, David Knecht wrote: > > I have to run some new wire for a solar panel and the tank monitor. I was at > West Marine yesterday looking at wire and I had the option of duplex wire or > single strand wire. The duplex was significantl

Re: Stus-List Wiring

I am not a marine electrician expert but I would suggest that 2 wires are safer that duplex wire albeit more expensive.fires and fuses.probably the marine electrical experts will explain why 2 wires are used to supply power almost exclusively on our sail boats _ From: CnC-List [mailto:

Re: Stus-List Wiring

I was in the marine electrical business for some years and about 95% of the time we used duplex wire. The extra layer of insulation certainly adds to safety instead of being less safe. The original wiring job on my 1973 35 was - barely - adequate for fresh water use in 1973 and about 90% of it has

Re: Stus-List Wiring

David,Each application may require a different kind of wire.  The Monitor wire is probably small current flow, 16 gauge or smaller like lampcord.  The solar panel probably requires heavier wire, # 4 or larger like jumper cables?  I'd follow the manufacturer's recs and buy that type, a little longer

Re: Stus-List Wiring

Dwight, with respect, that's nonsense. Twin wires are just fine, perfectly safe and used on all modern boats. When our kid crocks were made there was no decent quality marine twin lead. Rich > On Mar 23, 2014, at 14:14, "dwight" wrote: > > I am not a marine electrician expert but I would sug

Re: Stus-List Wiring

No matter what the application, the size/gauge of wire is a function of distance and current draw. Our very own web site, thank you Stu, has all the info you need to determine wire size. Remember distance is the return journey, not just one way. See: http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/doityourself/w

Re: Stus-List Wiring

Good to know that Joe.I knew an expert would tell us the right way.thanks _ From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joe Della Barba Sent: March 23, 2014 2:26 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Wiring I was in the marine electrical busines

Re: Stus-List Wiring

Thanks Rich. Like I said I am not expert at that, but Joe and you are so I certainly defer to your knowledge.that nonsense was just my way of looking at it _ From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rich Knowles Sent: March 23, 2014 3:06 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-li

Re: Stus-List Wiring

OK Rich, so why are the electrical system components on my boat almost exclusively supplied with 2 individual wires.I am quite certain the boat came from the factory that way as very few circuits have as yet to be rewired.hell I still got fuses.a sign of the times maybe or better duplex wire nowada

Re: Stus-List Shift cable removal 1983 C&C 37

I'm not sure the able wii come out the bottom. On my boat the two levers neded to be removed from the mechanism, and then the cables came out the top after the screws retaining the cable sheaths wears removed. Rick Brass Sent from my iPad > On Mar 23, 2014, at 0:51, Rich Knowles wrote: > > O

Re: Stus-List Wiring

No prob, Dwight. There have been many changes in technology and materials. I know doodly about fibreglass and resin. Rich > On Mar 23, 2014, at 15:29, "dwight" wrote: > > Thanks Rich. Like I said I am not expert at that, but Joe and you are so I > certainly defer to your knowledge…that nonse

Re: Stus-List Wiring

When our boats were built, that was the accepted wiring practice. Fuses were in our houses along with left over knob and tube wiring. Thank goodness those days are gone. Rich > On Mar 23, 2014, at 15:34, "dwight" wrote: > > OK Rich, so why are the electrical system components on my boat almo

Re: Stus-List Shift cable removal 1983 C&C 37

That might be the case. I've never had to completely remove a cable, but I think the hole at the bottom on my boat is the same size as the tube interior. No matter, it'll come out one way or another. Rich > On Mar 23, 2014, at 16:16, Rick Brass wrote: > > I'm not sure the able wii come out t

Re: Stus-List Wiring

Blue Sea has a circuit wizard app tohelp size wires. On Sunday, March 23, 2014, Rich Knowles wrote: > When our boats were built, that was the accepted wiring practice. Fuses > were in our houses along with left over knob and tube wiring. Thank > goodness those days are gone. > > Rich > > On Ma

Re: Stus-List Impeller/gear puller

Ditto. Shouldn't be that difficult. For most pumps, I just grab the impeller either side of the shaft with needle nose pliers, wiggle the thing while pulling. Most just come right out. When replacing, put a little lube on the vanes and shove it in. The vanes will assume the proper bend after

Re: Stus-List Wiring

About the only differences between using duplex vs primary are aesthetics, protection and heat rejection. Duplex will be better protected from chafe and damage. However, Once you calculate the recommended wire size for primary wire, increase it one size for duplex wire because it will run hot

Re: Stus-List Shift cable removal 1983 C&C 37

Thanks for the ideas. I will be down at the boat a few times this week. Hopefully I will get a chance to try again. Mac Worthy Pearl 1983 C&C 37  That might be the case. I've never had to completely remove a cable, but I think the hole at the bottom on my boat is the same size as the tube inte

Stus-List Boat AC Outlets

Listers, It looks like the Enterprise's AC system has suffered some corrosion over the winter and I'm thinking of doing a bit of an overhaul, including replacing some of the outlets on board with GFI ones that will stand up to a marine environment. Anyone have a recommendation on the best out

Re: Stus-List Wiring

"it will run hotter in the sheath".that is sort of what I was thinking when I suggested the "fire and fuses" issue, not to mention that the duplex wire is fatter and thus a bit more difficult to run through tight spaces.that said, I used it to power the electric marine toilet on Alianna _

Re: Stus-List Prop Anti-fouling Paint

Andy Was that the gray zinc paint? I tried that stuff last year and the barnacles loved it they just grew right on top of the paint. I'll never buy that product again. Gary "Liberty"

Re: Stus-List Impeller/gear puller

Tip. Replace the impeller fasteners with screws which take a hex key. Much easier to work with. From: dwight To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Sunday, March 23, 2014 12:21:29 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List Impeller/gear puller David Hardest part is getting the cov

Re: Stus-List Shift cable removal 1983 C&C 37

Mac, if this is what you have I can give you detailed instructions. http://www.moyermarine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=7005 I have most of mine sitting on my worktable. Michael Brown Windburn C&C 30-1 From: Rick Brass To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" Subject: Re: Stus-List Shift cable removal 1

Re: Stus-List Impeller/gear puller

Another tip, get the Speed Seal cover  (with thumb screws) and you don't need any tools!  Well, maybe some needle nose pliers to pull the impeller out. Bill Original message From: JOHN D IRVIN Date:03/23/2014 7:02 PM (GMT-05:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-L

Re: Stus-List NMEA 0183 to NMEA 2000 conversion

I'm not a NMEA 0183 expert but I though the different versions were backwards compatible. So if the Zeus will take NMEA 0183 (3.0) then it should understand ver. 1.5. I was under the impression that the 3.0 just had MORE reconized "sentences". Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk Solomons, MD On Mar 23, 20

Re: Stus-List : winch replacement

Tim, it depends on how you are sailing the boat. If you have strong crew, you can get by with lower power or you can luff up and make it easy to suck it in. I singlehand a lot, and make my wife tack the genny when we sail together, so extra power is good. Even so, grinding in the 135 the last few i

Re: Stus-List Boat AC Outlets

Hello Edd, In one of my former lives I worked as a Journeyman Construction & Maintenance Electrician. One of those Tradesman guys. I really don't think there is such a thing as a marine GFI. Just buy brand some name GFI's and install them. They may not last more than 8 or 10 years in that envi

Stus-List Cheaper Tether

I'll be crewing in a few weeks on my first multi-night offshore passage. Among the items I need to procure are a harness and tether. Marine tethers seem very overpriced so I've been looking into mountain climbing gear substitutes. Any concerns mating these carabiners: http://www.moosejaw.com/moose

Re: Stus-List : winch replacement

Thanks Jim, I'm servicing the 28's next weekend. If they're not great inside, that's probably the way I'll go. The winch monkeys are pretty strong, and we tend to cruise with the 110%. Tim > On Mar 23, 2014, at 8:57 PM, Jim Watts wrote: > > Tim, it depends on how you are sailing the boat. If

Stus-List gfi prevent dangerious shocks when using household, appliances on boat

gfi needs to be on only first outlet on alternating current line...probably have more than one line ...an extra gfi in the line is good way to keep spare,,,with gfi more you pay perhaps more you get ..however..all must meet american standards which require d to be employed in damp areas...not t

Re: Stus-List Boat AC Outlets

Edd, I have read several articles on AC power verses DC power on boats and believe the AC power can be kept separate, should be kept separarte. It's a project I keep working on. I believe the AC system can include household GFI outlets and be grounded to the engine block, nothing else. Chuck

Re: Stus-List Shift cable removal 1983 C&C 37

Michael, That is pretty much my set up. My handle is a small cast piece and only sticks out about 3 inches. Thanks, Mac  Worthy Pearl  1983 C&C 37 Date: Sun, 23 Mar 2014 19:40:05 -0400 From: Michael Brown To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Shift cable removal 1983 C&C 37 Messa

Re: Stus-List Cheaper Tether

FWIW, It's your life so you decide. I found a $35 climbing harness fit me better than a Spinlock harness at 5 times that price, and use that to climb the mast. For sailing offshore, I chose tethers that have snapschackles at each end. Caribiners have a place, but not on lifejacket/harness tethe

Re: Stus-List Boat AC Outlets

FWIW GFCI's in a marine environment can be a real nuisance when they trip due to small leakage currents caused by humidity and salt etc. They are generally not required by electrical code on shore power outlets and in RV parks. On board one in each AC branch circuit is adequate as a string o

Re: Stus-List Cheaper Tether

Hi Bob, No problem using the Dynex runner. I suggest getting a locking carbiner, something like this for the "boat side" of the tether http://www.moosejaw.com/moosejaw/shop/product_Black-Diamond-Positron-Screwgate-Carabiner_10003065_10208_1001_-1_ and using a spare snap shackle for you pe

Re: Stus-List : winch replacement

Wow, Jim. I can learn a few things from you... I can't "make" my wife, Melody, do anything. It gets done 'cause she wants it to be done. :) But I will try the next time we're out, if she lets me steer. Cheers, Russ Sweet 35 mk-1 At 05:57 PM 23/03/2014, you wrote: Tim, it dep