My first "real" sailboat was a very
battered wooden Flying Dutchman when I was about 14 or 15. Two
friends and I pooled our money to buy it for $150. We didn't have
much of a budget, and some of the rotten running rigging, out of
necessity, was replaced with cloth
Sent: Monday, August 19, 2013 7:09 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List New sheets/halyards
Although there may be a price break in buying a spool of line, I would
strongly recommend having different colors for different lines. I just sailed
on a friends boat with many of the control lines the same
Chuck,
I just replaced Touche's 7/16 StaSet jibsheets with 3/8 VPC from New England
Rope. I bought from apsltd and had them splice an eye on each end and include
their version of soft shackles.
Line is very nice. The soft shackles make tacking much smoother. Seems to
like an extra wrap on t
Lol - everyone seems to have their own code. I always did blue headsail, green
spinnaker and red main. Of course, the factory rigged my boat with blue for
the main and red for headsail. Now I'm changing lines just so I don't have to
unlearn 25 years of habit.
Other than halyards, I would tak
Someone over on the cruisers forum posted this:
I was taught (by an English race crew) that Mainsail controls are always
green, jib sails blue and spinnakers red. Halyards are solid colors and
sheets, outhauls etc. flecked or with tracers. (By following this
convention, crews are able to move from
I've had very good luck with Rigging Only and would suggest a call. I don't
see much value for a line higher tech than sta-set for your application but
will let the experts speak. I would worry more about why the line is wearing
after just a few years of use.
John
Sent from my iPad
On Aug
Although there may be a price break in buying a spool of line, I would
strongly recommend having different colors for different lines. I just
sailed on a friends boat with many of the control lines the same - brother
it was confusing - and I would say, potentially dangerous - especially if
you don'
Hi Charlie,
My boat in 1990 originally came with 7/16" halyards/wire and were replaced by
the PO w 3/8" Samson Ultralite rated for 4400#
A few years ago I replaced a few control lines w 5/16" line which worked out
great.
I replaced a worn out spin halyard w T-900.
If I were to do this year,
Charlie,
I just replaced most of my running rigging. For the halyards I used New England
1/2" VPC, plenty of strength, very low stretch, no creep. It has a blended
Vectran core and a polyester cover. I wanted the 1/2" size to make it easier on
the hands and workable with the existing clutches. W
T-900 is good. It's a tough hard line especially when under a load and hard to splice. ChuckResolute1990 C&C 34RAtlantic City, NJFrom: "Bill Coleman" To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSent: Monday, August 19, 2013 6:15:15 PMSubject: Re: Stus-List New sheets/halyards
I boug
I bought a spool of 10 mm T-900 from NER for halyards, they work good and I
don't notice any stretch. It is hard to pull at the mast with bare hands,
though. (I try not to do that, much) On the other hand, I would not want
anything fatter for up - the - mast stuff.
Incidentally, this main halyard
I think halyards for Jib and Main should be VPC 100 or better. You can go
smaller diameter and have a core added where they go through the clutches or
over the mast head sheeve. Again, ask the riggers at aspltd.com
Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Atlantic City, NJ
- Original Message -
Charlie,
I would suggest you call and discuss your needs with Annapolis Performance
Sailing. They have new stuff coming to market all the time, rig lots of racers
and can advise you on options. Be open minded, but explain how you have rigged
your own boat.
I changed my genoa sheets to 3/8" Ma
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