Ok switching gears, does anyone want the two binder original owners manual for
a 1981 C&C 36?It’s yours for the cost of postage from Ontario.
Len Mitchell
Sent from my iPad
Begin forwarded message:
> From: Len Mitchell
> Date: May 23, 2021 at 10:04:28 PM EDT
> To: CNC List
> Subject: Incisi
Does anyone know the whereabouts of a 1981 C&C 36 KCB hull number 216? It was
called Incision and was Alaska Blue. I have the build file and original owners
manual.
Len Mitchell
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Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the
costs involved. If
Tom, we have the same experience 4-4.5 quarts max oil change. Ours is a universal 35 and it’s on the same angle. Considering we only use a half tank of diesel a year I can live with a short oil change. Len MitchellS/V Crazy Legs1989 C&C 37+Midland On. Thanks to all of the subscribers that contribut
Friends with a Dufour 41 used a large bag they filled with water to heel their
boat. It was a great solution because they could roll up and store the bag
between uses. Youtube has quite a few videos if you need to see it done. Sounds
like fun. Len
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San, just create a new email to Stu’s list. Use a subject. Trim messages so you don’t have a pile of extra data. Best if you put your name, boat model and location so we have what we need to help you. If you want to post pics you need to use a link and a site like dropbox. Welcome to the list! Len
I guess I should correct this! but auto will only help if you have an auto
pilot connected to your quadrant not the wheel! Len
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costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use Pay
John, that looks like great leverage. I applaud you for testing it before you
need it. Every C&C will be a little different. Mine is short and almost
impossible to use in moderate wind without a winch. It’s worth trying before
shit happens. Auto helm is your friend if something goes bad FYI. Len
I have needed our emergency tiller in a squall before. Long story short, try it
before you need it. Some boats need the wheel removed and some need you to use
the primary winches. Spare steering cables are gold in a remote area. Len
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list t
I have a split backstay and dual hydraulic adjusters. I rebuilt both a couple years ago for about $26 in parts. Rebuilding it is nothing to be afraid of. Anything you need can be ordered from Hercules hydraulics through a hydraulics shop if necessary. A manual hydraulic adjuster is a pretty simple
I think I would get a long blade in my sawzall and put a couple cuts in it from
the outside or put a 18 or 24 inch pipe wrench on it inside and give it a twist
or both. Good luck. Len
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the
costs involved. If you want to s
Richard, I will send you pictures and a description of what you are facing to your email. It’s a big job but very possible. I haven’t heard of anyone else having to do this job and I believe most 37/40s have a poly tank rather than aluminum. I took it one step farther and converted the port side wa
Joe, Are you going to need a centre board keel? What about air draft, is that a factor? Going south and need tankage? Edd may have exactly what you need and you could eBay all the Star Trek action figures you find under the cushions! If you keep all the 7 of 9 Jeri Ryan ones we would understand! Al
Raymarine made a wired waterproof mono remote speaker with a volume control (as do many others). It’s about 4x4 inches. I have one close to the helm and it works great. It would be awful to have to choose between music and vhf! Len MitchellS/V Crazy Legs1989 C&C 37+Midland On. Sent from my mobile d
I would be interested to know if salt vs fresh water changes the life span of stainless rigging and I suspect it does. My rig looks and functions like new but it has always been in fresh water. Additionally, boats are out of the water 6 months a year in the north.I had a 1981 C&C 36KCB that was dis
I am replacing a 10 year + Sharp Aquious flat screen tv with a laptop or a large tablet. The smallest television I can buy is too big. We use a 1TB Western Digital media player to watch movies but there are plenty of options now, you can use a portable hard drive, flash drives or even SD cards. If
Agree the backstay tensions the forestay but you want to set your mast rake using forestay length and appropriate blocking at the mast base of course. Rake should be specified in your manual. Len MitchellS/V Crazy Legs1989 C&C 37+Midland On. Sent from my iPadThanks to all of the subscribers that co
Dave, I installed a garboard plug and the bilge is bone dry all winter on the hard. I am not sure you haul out in CT. But that’s a northern option. Len MitchellS/V Crazy Legs1989 C&C 37+Midland On. Sent from my iPadThanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the
cost
Chuck, the owners manual lists spinnaker sheets for a 37/40 as 7/16x65 feet. Not sure what length mine are but 65 may be a bit short for an outside gybe. It may be sized for a symmetrical spinnaker. I think I would add the foot dimension of your sail or at least consider it if you measure. Len Mi
on the Cerbo but you'll have to be pretty software savvy to make it do everything you want. Here is a link to the Venus OS GitHub page: https://github.com/victronenergy/venus/wikiHope this helps,CheersRileyOn Tue, Mar 2, 2021 at 11:31 AM Len Mitchell via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com&g
With all this talk about bilge pumps I am looking at a way to monitor the boat when I am not there. Has anyone bought or built a monitor? It looks possible with a Raspberry Pi computer. I would like to monitor battery bank voltage, bilge pump cycles or bilge water level and refrigerator temperature
For what its worth, the cylinder style pumps from Facet have a screen filter in
the bottom. Len
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Dave, I equipped my last two boats with solar panels. Both had refrigeration
and 4-6 volt golf cart batteries for the additional amp hours. I switched 99%
of my lighting to LED and have an autopilot, inverter and chart plotter. I ran
a 150 watt rigid panel on the first boat and 250 watt rigid pa
Nate, I installed a drain last year. I used magnets too and drilled from
outside. I also used a door drill kit and a drummel tool and installed the
drain flush with the hull and faired it with epoxy. If you need pics or more
information pm me. You can buy flush nylon plugs by sea dog? and don’t
Lewis,
If you cruise or spend most of your time away from the dock. I would focus on
adding the things to support that mindset. Refrigeration vs ice allows you to
not have to get ice somewhere on a long cruise fwiw we mostly keep ice cubes in
our freezer box. Stove with oven vs BBQ gives you co
Charlie, I like the house bank charge priority or wherever your automatic bilge
pump or refrigerator is connected, whatever you find most important while you
are away from the boat. Your post says small solar panel and a 50 amp fuse.
Those two don’t match! If you over size the fuse the wire beco
Rock, in a pinch I have used the main halyard for my 76lb 15hp 2 stoke but it’s
a 2 person job then, one on the winch. A 5hp 2 stroke is easy! If you aren’t
sure tie a safety rope onto the motor, they sink fast.
Len Mitchell
Crazy Legs
1989 37+
Midland On
Sent from my mobile device.
Bruce, did you have Auto running? In the right conditions my Autopilot ram will
clunk and it’s mounted below the propane locker. Calm conditions medium
throttle with the stereo off.
Len Mitchell
Crazy Legs
1989 37+
Midland On
Sent from my mobile device.
__
Recognizing that prettiest is subjective and that I am partial to the 37/40, I
have always loved the lines of a C&C 41 with the C&C 39 a close second. Simply
beautiful boats!
Len Mitchell
Crazy Legs
1989 37+
Midland On.
Sent from my mobile device.
Joe, I like the remote fuel pressure gauge! That looks like aviation or race
car technology. Tom is trying to find out why he can’t get that last 15 gallons
of fuel. I believe Josh has the same Yanmar and believe he posted his vacuum
numbers so there is something to compare to. He can also shut
Tom, it’s your boat and wallet but an inexpensive vacuum gauge will tell the
tale. I would hate to buy an expensive Yanmar pump and find out it’s something
more simple unless you want a spare pump anyway. They are available on amazon
or eBay and maybe 20$
https://www.generalfilters.com/products
Thanks Josh you are right the gauge measure inches of mercury not atmospheres.(
.489 vs 14.7 lbs) I did an experiment this morning and our Universal M35 uses
an electric fuel pump made by Facet that runs at 6-8 psi. The gauge running
shows 1 inch of mercury or just around .5 lbs and it will gene
Welcome Jeff,
Looks like you are getting lots of replies. Folks have been sailing with a
family of 4 in all sizes of boats. We went 25-36-40 and bigger is more
comfortable for sure. My advice would be buy a C&C! Best condition, newest and
most comfortable you can afford. You can figure out the
Tom, I think you have an issue with fuel lift. Either there is a hole in the
fuel pick up at the 15 gallon gallon level in your tank or the lift pump for
some reason isn’t able to pull fuel all the way from the bottom of the tank. If
you had crud and your filters were getting clogged a fuel poli
Has anyone modified their refrigerator to have a bigger freezer section? I have
the original coated steel shelving with a retrofit freezer box and I am
considering dividing the fridge to have a bigger freezer.
Len Mitchell
Crazy Legs
1989 37+
Midland On.
Sent from my mobile device.
_
The thought process behind not using Teflon tape on natural gas or propane was
that if a piece of tape was cut off by pipe threads it would end up in a gas
orifice downstream and block a burner or alter a pressure regulator. Now to
qualify that statement, it’s from trade school 100 years ago and
David, there is not supposed to be Teflon tape used on any propane lines. There
should be an O ring on the left hand thread male connector that seals the
tapered seat. With the corrosion on your connector I would suggest you go to a
modern right hand thread connector like your BBQ tank or check
Bob, I think cancelling the 2020 Mid Atlantic rendezvous is the right thing to
do. Better now that at the last minute. It’s just not worth the risk. We attend
from Ontario and I doubt the border will even be open by October. We are
definitely going to miss it and the great friends we have made b
Bruce, I would cut a 6 inch marine access cover in the cabinetry under the sink
before I drained the sink into the bilge. I have the same battery area you do
and I had to install an in-line valve under the sink, (I had water in the sink
when heeled over at hull speed). Your post has made me reth
Ken, thanks, HMP in Toronto was my first stop. They have a good selection of
C&C parts and coincidently they were the ones I used for the crazy high trim
kit quote and I trust they don’t mark parts up that far. It’s a Lewmar parts
pricing issue. I found a plastic 37+ holding tank at HMP when my
I sent email to Lewmar support about getting some spares. I was looking for
the thin plastic trim kit for an Ocean 70 and it retails for 475$ cdn! That is
an incredible cost for what it is IMHO. I also asked about the roll stop hinge
kits. They are not available any longer. I asked if they woul
I sent email to Lewmar support about getting some spares. I was looking for
the thin plastic trim kit for an Ocean 70 and it retails for 475$ cdn! That is
an incredible cost for what it is IMHO. I also asked about the roll stop hinge
kits. They are not available any longer. I asked if they woul
Chuck, be sure and let us know how it works. I am changing the plexi glass in
the sea hood and slider next and the white silicone had me concerned that it
was a bigger job than I thought. I wondered why it was there and core explains
it. I would also over drill and use unthickened epoxy then thi
Rob, love your design, great job! Wine storage is maybe the only area that
needs improvement! Just another first world problem! We have been suffering so
long too. Insert sarcastic grin here! X
Len
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Thanks everyone for
Edd, I use the hidden cupboard in the starboard side seating in front of the
HWT. The first aid kit is over the V berth vanity and V berth sink. If you cut
yourself that sink is handy for repairs!
Len
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Thanks everyone
I run at 2200 rpms and get 6.5 knots. That’s where she is smooth but working a
little. It feels like the sweet spot. She will get 7+ if I add throttle but
vibrates more and makes more noise. Every 37+ could be a little different
depending on drive train. Universal M35 and a 2 blade max prop at 2
Charlie, I will add to Edd’s post. I have a different system and would suggest
you find the closest place to connect to power. Battery, battery switch, ACR or
other. You need to make sure the connection is solid, fused and that the wire
is appropriately sized. I am running a power share relay/m
Charlie, I will add to Edd’s post. I have a different system and would suggest
you find the closest place to connect to power. Battery, battery switch, ACR or
other. You need to make sure the connection is solid, fused and that the wire
is appropriately sized. I am running a power share relay/mo
I replied to Jim via PM with a page to help identify his hatch. I have one
hinge left in my inventory but I also need it for an ocean 20 hatch.
My question is this for you techies: can my hinge be replicated on a 3D
printer? And if so what’s involved?
Len Mitchell
Crazy Legs
1989 37+
Midland On
Edd, what do you need to know. Lewmar 1x ocean 70 and 4x ocean 20. I am on the
boat but can measure hatches or send you the specs for them. I have covers on
the 70 and 2 20s. They are snap domed onto the aluminum frames. If you need a
pic let me know and I will PM send it. It really makes a diff
Chris, we do use the table but not for wine. Single malt doesn’t mind the heat.
I am considering building something under the V. I am looking for storage for
probably 12 bottles. I was just looking for ideas because someone has already
done it I am sure!
Len
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Has anyone come up with an innovative solution for wine storage on a 37/40? It
would be nice to have enough room in the coolish bilge but there isn’t room.
Len Mitchell
Crazy Legs
1989 37+
Midland On.
Sent from my mobile device.
___
Thanks everyon
Hi Joel, Welcome! You can find a few home built tools on YouTube or by
searching online. Removing the bearing is easier with the shaft out imho. I
believe my tool is a piece of 3/8 threaded rod and nuts with large flat washers
and a 1/2 inch socket the appropriate size. There is also be a piece
I am in the process of redoing my plexiglass ports, it’s the second boat I have
done and the second time was way easier. If you are trying to remove the glass,
try a small thin flexible scraper wherever the glass is loose and separate the
glass from the plexus epoxy by pulling the scraper around
Wedges can be easily made out of oak or a similar hard wood. I leave a lip on
top so they don’t fall inside the boat and stay where you put them. Any wood
shop can make them. I also use oak shims in a fat T pattern to keep the mast
base in the appropriate spot at the bottom and help the mast kee
Bruce, I doubt you will see two grounded the same but my shunt is as high as
possible in the bilge at the bottom of the companionway steps beside the engine
intake thru hull. You may just have to follow your wires. Crazy Legs is a 1989
and has an original link battery monitor with a charger inve
Ken, if it’s not too much trouble I would appreciate a pic from the inside of
the lazarette. This is not for Crazy Legs, I shared pics of our factory
installation a while back. Ours is connected to the rudder post. I am helping a
boat buddy and his boat will not work with the rudder post install
Does anyone have pictures of their Auto Pilot linear drive installation to the
quadrant? So mounted in the port side lazarette. I have below deck pics. TIA
Len Mitchell
Crazy Legs
1989 37+
Midland On.
Sent from my mobile device.
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Thanks everyone
John, I have a puller too but was able to generate more force using the socket
and bolts but to be honest my puller is a pretty low quality princess auto
tool. I may have tapped the coupling with a small hammer when I had some
pressure on it too. Len
Sent from my iPad
> On May 19, 2020, at 9:
John, I had to use a socket on the end of the prop shaft and pressed the
coupling off using longer bolts and nuts of the same size. Some folks have
actually cut theirs but with 2$ worth of bolts you can press it off quite
easily if there is enough room. Check your cutlass bearing if you are goin
When replacing the original ribbed hose or even drain hose I use the reinforced
clear vinyl beverage hose. It’s strong, flexible enough and will be easier to
source too.
Len
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Tim, I had a 1981 C&C 36KCB a decade ago and I believe Klacko Marine in Ontario
originally provided that spar. If Dan is still working he will likely be able
to answer any question about it. If not his son is very knowledgeable too. I
believe there is Klacko marine and Klacko spars. Try calling
I had to use the e tiller once on our 37+. The wheel had to be removed.
Conditions were 45+ knots of wind and significant waves during a line squall
coincidently between two major shoals. You will likely find the relatively
short tiller too short for significant leverage. Removal of the pedestal
Dennis,
I had a 1981 36 KCB and fabricated a second propane locker. The seat will be
screw fastened from below. I used appropriate diameter and length cardboard
sono tube as a template. I used glass and west system epoxy. I cut the hole
with a jig saw if memory serves and used the cut out as a
My 37+ has a vented loop behind the vanity. I converted the port side water
tank to holding for the Great Lakes. I installed a check valve in the aft sink
but shut off the v birth sink when sailing using a 1/4 turn valve in the drain.
It’s pretty easy to bury the rail in a blow. I try to reduce
Tom, I sent pics of the factory installed linear drive to you and or Gary more
than a year ago. Let me see if I can find them again and you can verify.
Len
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Bruce, the plastic tri light lens pretty much disintegrated but it was 5 years
older than yours! I think the regs say an all round light installed where it
can best be seen so there is some flexibility but remember a mast head light
illuminates the top rigging too. At night in an anchorage where
Bruce, our 1989 37+ had an Aqua signal tri light with strobe. Last summer I
replaced it with another aqua signal LED tri light, without the strobe. It
works great and it’s visible from a great distance but there are many choices.
Yours is probably an aqua signal but no guarantees. If it’s a ligh
The way I have to look at it is based on being on the hard from October to May.
If I was in the water like Josh 11/12 months or Bob 12/12, I wouldn’t even look
at it. It wouldn’t make sense to me either and simply is not required. If you
have ever checked on your boat and found water just under
Our bilge is shallow but not as shallow as a KCB model. I would install it low
in the keel stub. It would be best as low as you can and mine may be 1/4-1/2
inch off the bottom and it works fine. I would normally vacuum and sponge out
the bilge whenever it was above freezing but that was difficu
I installed a garboard plug this fall after more than 20 years without. I have
a dry bilge this winter and honestly regret not doing it sooner. It was only
about $25 and it took about a half hour. Magnets were used to locate and I
installed it flush with the keel stub. We are covered on the hard
Josh, I kept my packing gland for future use but you need the 1-1/8 shaft brass
packing gland, 4 clamps, a short piece of hose and appropriate sized and type
packing. If you need a pic or a hose measurement let me know.
I have self adhesive silicone tape and rigging tape on board as a possible
Josh, Shawn is correct. The 6 inch or so piece of hose on the original packing
gland. I would bet a high number of boats still have it in service. Mine was 20
years old when I replaced it and the outer rubber layer had cracks in it. There
isn’t a lot of water pressure on it but it gets a little
I found a plastic battery holder online for my Force 10 stove. It was on amazon
and a very inexpensive simple repair, good for another 30 years. Len
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How many boats still have the original $2 piece of rubber hose in service after
30 plus years? I bet the number is high. I haven’t heard of anyone sinking due
to a shaft seal hose breakdown but why risk it for $2. Len
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Bruce, the head valve and/or the anti siphon valve stop the flow of clear water
into the head. Therefore both of them would have to fail. I would check your
anti siphon valve if I were you. It may be plugged or not open far enough to
let a little air in and stop the siphon effect. If you want to
Edd, BOTH the anti siphon valve and head check valve have to be malfunctioning
as others have said to have the bowl fill with clear water. Black water would
be a joker valve issue if you use your holding tank.
We also have an issue with the V berth sink on a port tack filling with water
so I in
Joe, while the whaler would work in the Erie Canal or the Trent Severn Canal
system, it doesn’t give you much exposure to the Great Lakes. If you are on the
Great Lakes and the weather picks up, it can get quite rough. The waves are
close together and steep, without the large swells you get ocea
One of the most useful diagnostic tools for me is a clamp on AC/DC ammeter.
That may tell you what amperage it’s popping at. You put it on AC amps and just
clamp it over one leg. Mine will hold the highest recorded amperage. I also use
it to more accurately read how much DC the solar panel is p
Josh, we will get to the rendezvous wherever the group decides it is. The only
weekend we could not attend would be the weekend of Oct 3 due to our northern
haul out. If you can find a location with a pavilion or building close by to
get out of the weather, that would be a big plus as the rendez
The rendezvous was another big success! Thanks to Josh and Carmelita for
organizing and the rest of the attendees for contributing to the fun,
refreshments, food etc. We really enjoyed the C&Cers and St Michaels and are
already looking forward to next year! We had a blue crab picking, eating les
Blair, one thing worth mentioning is tank construction, some boats of that
vintage including ours came with an aluminum holding tank. The PO used a
chlorine odour product and the tank disintegrated along the bottom edge. If
yours is plastic, that’s better than aluminum and I would check the insp
Bruce, our 1989 37+ has a 3 inch inline style blower that sits just below the
manual bilge pump and exits in the walk thru transom beside our shore power
inlet. A 3 inch plastic flex pipe can be installed on the centre line into the
engine box. There is a remarkable difference in the main cabin
Bruce, our last two boats came with a two bladed Max prop. They are adjustable
and give plenty of power in reverse, stops on a dime coming into the slip and
pulls slightly to port. We have no issues reaching hull speed either. The 1981
36KCB was Atomic 4 powered and the 1989 37+ is a Universal M
Nice install Andy! That looks really well done. Curious how many amps you are
getting in full sun. Len
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every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to
I am refinishing some of the worn teak inside the cabin around the galley sink
rail etc. Does anyone know what product was originally used by C&C? I would
like to be able to replicate the finish without having to refinish all of the
interior. Our teak looks almost new with only a couple exceptio
Paul, you can usually wire the propane detector to shut off the propane
solenoid if it senses fuel. I am shopping for an automatic fire extinguisher
for the engine compartment that uses a non corrosive extinguishing agent. An
automatic engine shut down device is recommended. Sea-fire makes an au
Joe, Every single boat owner should have a smoke alarm on board. The odds of
actually using a means of egress depend almost entirely upon getting an early
warning. A smoke alarm is maybe $10 and some have integrated CO alarms too. It
will be interesting to see what the cause of the fire was but
Since we agree our boats are probably not symmetrical, I suggest you racers out
there factor in your favoured tack and use it to your advantage. I have no
intention of feather boarding my keel and rudder for symmetry, there is cold
beer in my refrigerator too! C&Cs still pass 99% of the competit
I am following this thread with great interest. I measured distances using the
main halyard and believe my mast is plumb. The partners and foot hold the mast
centred as far as I can tell and as long as the boat, keel and rudder are
symmetrical. I continue to point higher and get better performan
Joe, You can remove rust from chrome with steel wool as long as it’s just on
the surface. If it’s in deep you are out of luck. If you can get the rust off
wax helps keep it off. Not as big an issue in sweet water! Len
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Thanks eve
For what its worth, about 9 or 10 years ago I replaced our original smelly
sanitation hose with 100% vinyl hose. It starts off clear, is very flexible,
reasonably priced and it does not smell. I have installed the white sanitation
hose in a previous boat and it was a pia as well it started to re
Bill, they only outlaw the semi automatic plastic flare guns here. Should be ok
for jet skis no? Two days ago I had a jet ski circle the anchorage towing a guy
in a Borat mankini bathing suit on a knee board. The Borat limit here is two
but I would like to lobby the government to increase the cu
My original plastic Hella mast head light is on its last legs. I have an anchor
light, tri colour running lights and a strobe. Looking for a robust LED light.
I am not sure I really need a strobe light. I used it once for a pizza delivery
and it may actually be a separate fixture. Does anyone ha
Paul, the search box for the archives is on the bottom of the home page. Call
Peter at Holland Marine Products is good advice and he may even have one in
stock, you never know until you ask. He had one for our boat! Kracor made your
original tanks. Maybe get the dimensions if you don’t already h
David, if you must provide an extinguisher specifically for the engine
compartment, I would look at something like a Fireboy automatic discharge
extinguisher. They use a “clean” product and it’s activated by a sprinkler head
type device activated by a specific temperature of 175F. There are othe
I must have missed the original post but would offer that myself and others
have installed an automotive oil catch can to the diesel engine vent hose that
loops back to the air filter. The engine compartment was always covered in an
oily mist but its relatively clean now and not greasy. You will
Bruce, the engine loop inside the water heater is usually copper with no check
valves so it should not matter how it’s connected, it’s just a loop. You can
tell which hose is the supply with the engine running, it’s going to be the
warmest one. The little bit of air inside the loop will be remov
I would try HMP, Genco or the rigging shoppe. For what its worth, I used a heat
gun and a hooked drywall knife to remove the tired plastic and found perfect
stainless underneath. But high tech rope was my plan B.
Len
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I am about 90% sure I read it is a fluid dynamics thing. I was hoping Rob Ball
would make a comment so we can all quit guessing. Fair winds, Len
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every on
Magnets worked perfectly to locate the hole and drill from outside. Thanks for
the suggestion Eric! It is mounted in the bottom of the bilge flush with the
keel stub and looks great. Len
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