I printed it and will make sure it is on board. Thanks for the information!
Rick
Paikea 37+
Bremerton, WA
> On Apr 19, 2019, at 8:31 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> Everything you need, lubrication, cable tension, etc., is here:
>
> https://edsonmarine.com/content/EB381SteeringGuide.
I have something similar (Yanmar), it's mostly a rusted lump but still looks
relatively easy to remove by cutting a few bolts if necessary.
From: CnC-List on behalf of Steve Thomas via
CnC-List
Sent: April 20, 2019 12:37 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Steve T
I installed something similar to that on my 34. I ended up with the Buck
Algonquin one instead cause that is what the shop had in stock, something like
https://www.deepblueyachtsupply.com/split-marine-transmission-coupling-50401s1250?gclid=Cj0KCQjwhuvlBRCeARIsAM720Hq3qLvxJHYSic4AWJVJlO-IPKKMgdGf
A good buddy of mine rebuilt his Jeanneau rudder – it came out great! It is now
a year old and just went back in the water for the season. I’ll try to get some
pictures.
Gary
From: CnC-List On Behalf Of Dan via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, April 20, 2019 12:40 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: D
Anyone have any experience using a split propeller coupling?
Looks like a neat solution to the jamming problems associated with the
traditional couplings.
Might also be less likely to work loose when recently assembled.
This is what I am looking at:
https://www.generalpropeller.com/inboard-
That’s it. Thanks. Didn’t realize the bronze piece continues below the deck
surface. So much for just turning it over.
Can’t wait to look at price sheet.
Sent from my iPhone
> On Apr 20, 2019, at 1:12 PM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> Page 10 in Edson’s Traditional Steering ca
Thanks for all the input and advice - It's incredibly helpful to get
multiple approaches and info on the construction.
My rudder is very long. When we hauled out last year the tip of the rudder
was level with the bottom of the wing keel, so roughly 5-6 ft.
I'm still skeptical that the fins/wings ar
Many of us suggest a 30 micron for the primary and a 10 micron for the
secondary.
Dennis C.
On Sat, Apr 20, 2019 at 11:37 AM Shawn Wright via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> I noticed the C&C 35-2 with VW diesel that I am planning to purchase has a
> Sierra 18-7846 marine fuel filter,
Page 10 in Edson’s Traditional Steering catalog.
https://edsonmarine.com/content/Edson_T1.pdf
Assorted sizes available.
Chuck Gilchrest
S/V Half Magic
35 Landfall
Padanaram MA
Sent from my iPhone
> On Apr 20, 2019, at 11:28 AM, Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> I suppose I could,
Try South Shore – I have sourced the derlin ring that the rudder of our 33-II
slides on there.
From: CnC-List On Behalf Of Matthew L. Wolford
via CnC-List
Sent: April 20, 2019 10:11 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Matthew L. Wolford
Subject: Stus-List Source for bronze
Listers:
I am in
I noticed the C&C 35-2 with VW diesel that I am planning to purchase has a
Sierra 18-7846 marine fuel filter, which is listed as a 21 micron
fuel/water separating filter for gasoline. There is also a Racor filter,
but I have not inspected it yet.
Is this 21 micron filter ok to use as a primary? It
Hi Neil,
Thanks for the info! This reminded me that I have a copy of a purchase
agreement form given to me my a broker, so I am now adapting that to my
needs. We have several realtors in the family, so I am quite familiar with
the real estate forms, which are very similar. I plan to present the of
In the late 70’s early 80’s some C&C owners here were lengthening their
rudders, there is a fellow here who interned at C&C in the early 70’s who
designed the modified rudders. I did two modifications using the existing
shafts, and one from scratch, but not the fiberglass. The ribs were 11 Gaug
Mild steel structure inside the rudder is BAD!
Bob Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C&C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
(Presently traveling north on ICW)
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
email: dainyr...@icloud.com
> On Apr 20, 2019, at 9:10 AM, Daniel Cormier via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> Thanks Rob,
> It sounds unbel
I replaced my panels with FRP (fiberglass reinforced plastic) from Home
Depot. Easy to cut with a saber saw using blades with fine teeth. I used 1"
Velcro to hold the panels in place. Liquid Nails adhesive works well, even
over adhesive, from the old Velcro, that I couldn't get off.
The water intr
I suppose I could, now that you mention it.
You’re about as clever as whoever engineered the contraption in the first place.
From: Dennis C. via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, April 20, 2019 10:37 AM
To: CnClist
Cc: Dennis C.
Subject: Re: Stus-List Source for bronze
Can you simply turn the existing
I rebuilt mine from a bare post up, (got someone else to do the welding but did
all the rest). Pics sent to Dan.
Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11
On 2019-04-20 1:39 a.m., Dan via CnC-List wrote:
Thanks everyone,
I've looked into both Foss Foam and Competition Composites. Both options
Can you simply turn the existing bronze ring over?
Dennis C.
On Sat, Apr 20, 2019 at 9:11 AM Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> Listers:
>
> I am in need of a source for a small piece of bronze, which will
> likely need to be fabricated. On my 42, the top of t
I imagine a machine shop could rebuild the missing bronze through bronze
welding using something like a silicon bronze tig rod and then machine the
top flat again?
Or check with Edson Marine? They may have something?
Ken H,
On Sat, 20 Apr 2019 at 11:11, Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List <
cnc-l
Adam, our 1981 36 had a tiny amount of water traveling from the opening port in
the head but it could be from any fitting nearby on your port side. It’s a
difficult place to diagnose a leak. It would travel down the bottom of the
bulkhead in the recess moulded for the bulkhead. Took me a long ti
Listers:
I am in need of a source for a small piece of bronze, which will likely
need to be fabricated. On my 42, the top of the rudder post exits through the
coaming just aft of the cockpit. There is a simple but ingenious method of
securing it. There are two, small stainless steel whee
I've not rebuilt a rudder - but I've seen on one youtube.
Not sure if you're familiar with Sail Life channel - Mads is
rebuilding a boat and does a mold of his existing rudder before.
He makes it look manageable.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_IjN9Sgm2qs
Just a point of clarification, I don’t think I was as clear as I could have
been.
There is a difference between acceptance of offer by the seller and acceptance
of vessel. Receiving multiple offers is reasonable until an offer is accepted.
Once the offer is accepted by the seller, any subsequ
Adam:
I re-did the ceiling panels on my 34, which I suspect were very similar to
your 36. I used the old panels, which were thin ply covered with a headliner
material. I removed the old headliner material (it was stapled on as I
recall)), cleaned up the panels, applied West System to the
Dan:
I’ve reported on this before so I apologize for boring everybody.
I had high moisture readings in the rudder on my 42 when I bought the boat.
We did not open it up to inspect the metal (stainless vs. regular), so I can’t
comment about this issue. In my case, we drilled a number o
By 1990 they were shown in the construction drawing as 3' x 1/16" stainless
steel straps welded to a stainless steel rudder post, according to this:
https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-GXI7YFjZL8c/WZoTeVoH5wI/AAABmME/SwETqRlQXgsaotrBTiRb75X0xlBNQ_oXACLcBGAs/s1600/Rudder%2BDesign%2B%2526%2BHull%2BLaminat
Could the problem be from leaking grab rails or fixed ports where the water is
getting behind the head liner and running down? I would suspect the grab rails
before anything else.Just a thought,Sent from Samsung tablet.
null___
Thanks everyone for sup
Hello all,Just FYI, most larger cities will have a plastics distributor who
will sell retail. When I needed 1/2" bronze plexiglass for our sliding and
fixed hatch (the slider is now done but I haven't done the fixed hatch yet), I
was able to order it and get it locally. I paid sales tax, but a
Thanks Rob,
It sounds unbelievable but I was told by the last fibreglass man to have worked
on my rudder that the fins/grid structure inside my rudder (original) are made
from MILD STEEL and welded to the stainless steel post. Where many of us have
wet rudders, this is obviously very very bad. I
I had to weigh in again. I’m a broker. We use the YBAA standard contract
which is buyer friendly. Until the buyer signs an acceptance, they are not
committed. The offer is accompanied by a 10% refundable deposit. Before the
vessel is accepted, the seller can entertain other offers, but is i
To help locate were the water is coming from we used the washable magic marker
like you get for kids and ran it along under the deck/hull joint. The marker
line “runs” in areas where water goes. I imagine you can use the approach
anywhere you suspect a problem.
We ran our “line” in the cabin
Hi Adam,
I replaced my ceiling panels with 3/16 starboard. Tho fiberglass wall panels
from Home Depot are very flimsy so I was concerned they would rattle or sag
over time if I didn’t laminate them to something else. Starboard was easy to
cut on my table saw and round the corners with a router
Adam,
I replaced my ceiling panels with new ones cut from "Foamed PVC Board".
The only trouble I had was that the old adhesive from the original
velcro was impossible to remove and the new velcro didn't stick to it
very well. My solution was to use 2" velcro.
James
"Delaney" 1976 C&C 38
Or
The metal grid structure inside the rudder is very important. On our C&C’s this
structure is made from stainless steel plates that are welded to the stainless
steel rudder shaft. Tartan 37’s are known to have a problem with their carbon
steel internal rudder plates that were welded to the stain
Hello Listers
We have pretty major water intrusion coming in on the port side by the bulkhead
in the salon of our C&C 36. The water is gathering on the edge of the
fibreglass headliner and running into the storage cupboards. I have rebedded
the chain plates and handrails. The stanchions are t
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