Shawn,
My 35-1 has about 4 inches of shaft between the strut and the front edge
of the prop. Maybe the 35-2 has a different placement of the strut and
prop than the 35-1, but I would agree whats on that boat seems a bit
longer than desirable. Can't quite tell from the photo but it appears
I just noticed what appears to be a fairly long extension of the prop shaft
beyond the support on the 35-2 pictured here:
http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=168876&d=1524980874
It looks like there is at least 12" of shaft beyond the support before the
prop, and bit le
Pretty boat, just about what Heart & Soul should look like by end of summer. My
35-2 came with a staysail that has a stay built into the luff and goes up on
the backup jib halyard.
Kurt & Connie Heckert
‘75 C&C 35mk2
Heart & Soul
On Thu, 4/11/19, Sha
Thanks for the follow up. No rub rail (at all) on a Custom 42.
From: Rick Brass via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, April 11, 2019 8:59 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Rick Brass
Subject: Re: Stus-List Merriman snatch block question
Has not happened on my 38. I have a pair of 70 series single block
Has not happened on my 38. I have a pair of 70 series single blocks on swivel
shackles permanently mounted to the toe rail aft of the winches that I use as
turning blocks to get a good sheet lead into the winches (which really helps
reduce the loads when moving the line adjustable genoa cars). A
The Harken flip-flop block I use for my furling line IS a ratchet block. I
think the my furling line is 5/16 instead of 3/8. I had to put a suitably sized
block of Starboard between the deck and the base of the block to get a proper
line lead into the block. When the headsail is furled, I still
This makes sense, except they were along most of the hull length, from the
cockpit to the the end of the cabin top at least, spaced every 16-18" or
so. Reminded me of what I see on some of my neighbours houses in the
winter, when the studs show through with heat loss patterns. I don't think
it was
It’s fairly common on some older C&C’s. In particular, the 32’s. I think we
named it the “dimple”. There have been discussions on the topic here in years
past. It’s usually the brace for the upper shrouds.
My 35-1 had it. It sanded out easily with a straight line sander when I prepped
Touché f
Chuck,
I have exactly the setup you describe.
It’s on my 26 - a smaller boat, but works flawlessly and was such an
improvement from the old horned cleat.
sam
C&C 26 Liquorice
Ghost Lake Alberta
On Thursday, April 11, 2019, 4:14:14 PM EDT, Chuck Saur via CnC-List
wrote:
Happy spring!!??
While kayaking the other day, I noticed a 32' ('83 I think) which had quite
visible vertical lines apparent on the hull where the internal braces are
located. The hull was a grey-blue colour, which probably made these appear
more obvious, and I don't think it was moisture, as the temps were about
1
Thanks for the good info on keel bolts. I will inspect carefully if we get
a chance to make an offer.
I am still curious about the twin headstay/furler solent rig. I will need
to confirm the inner stay is properly braced at the deck, but I am
wondering about the mast, with regard to reinforcement,
My line comes into an integral farelead/camcleat. I think that the unit
was designed for a larger size line since the farelead looks capable of
1/2" or even 9/16" and the 3/8ths that I use works loose of the cam cleat.
In heavy winds and a furled sail it can come loose quickly and
dangerously. I
Earlier this year we were out on the Gulf and a friend of mine suggested a
single line clutch. I found one at our local boat salvage. Due to the way our
cockpit is designed, I get a pretty straight pull through it to the turning
block at the base of the stanchion, and if I ever really had to (
I have had good luck with a ratcheting block with integral jam cleat, which is
clamped onto my stanchion at the cockpit.
Just pull it in and you are done. If I think bad weather is possible, I will
also cleat it.
Bill Coleman
C&C 39 Erie, PA
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc
On my 34R I installed a Harken Size 1 and the kit came with a rachet block on
the pushpit stanchion and the line is directed toward a secondary winch but run
through a Harken Cam Cleat mounted on the coaming.
Chuck S
> On April 11, 2019 at 4:13 PM Chuck Saur via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
>
Happy spring!!?? Ice shanty or two (with trucks) still on Hessel Bay!!
I have been searching for a new way to cleat my furling line. Currently
have just a 'horned' cleat mounted on the coaming sidewall. I have been
looking at Harken's 'flip-flop' (pivoting) block mounted to deck with
integral ca
But then I’ll have to buy him a beer, or worse yet, two.
From: Dennis C. via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, April 11, 2019 1:58 PM
To: CnClist
Cc: Dennis C.
Subject: Re: Stus-List Merriman snatch block question
If you want to repair the pin in a snatch block, go to mcmaster.com and look at
"barrel
Robbie:
Thanks. That is the inelegant solution that I knew would work when I
started this unfortunate thread. Given that no one has suggested a source
for a replacement pin, I suspect that's where I'm headed.
I appreciate everyone's input.
Matt
-Original Message-
From: Robb
If you want to repair the pin in a snatch block, go to mcmaster.com and
look at "barrel nuts and screws". No idea what the load rating on them
would be but perhaps they might work.
Or, take up Bill Coleman's offer and advice..
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
___
Let me preface with a good, "You do you".
The Gaurhaure snatch blocks have a hole in their middle which allows for a
bungee or simple line to be clipped to the lifeline. This keeps the block
from falling to the deck or topsides when not in use. I even used lines
such as these and saw them used o
Matthew,
I have four of the large Merriman snatch blocks on my boat. Over the years,
all the center shafts have failed at some point. The little screw that hold
the holds the shaft in simply isn't up to the task. If you want to fix it
for less than 5 bucks, get a 3/8" x 3 1/2" stainless bolt, w
Can you get a picture?
If you damage it then you can just drill it out. Brass is pretty soft. If
you damage the block then you can over drill and re-tap with the
appropriate MIP thread tap.
I had a fuel banjo bolt with a built in bleed screw. The screw would strip
out quite easily and as a res
Might that require the thermostat to be open before it will circulate the
water?Just wondering,Bruce Whitmore 1994 C&C37/40+"Astralis"Sent from Samsung
tablet.
Original message From: Morgan Ellis via CnC-List
Date: 4/11/19 9:11 AM (GMT-05:00) To:
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Mo
Thanks, Rick.
I just visited Garhauer’s website. The comparable block would be the 70SN for
$220, which is a good price. However, the cheeks are anodized aluminum, not
rubber. The blocks on my boat normally attach to the toe rail, and it is not
uncommon for a block to end up hanging outboard
Actually, Matthew, they are not that expensive. Here is a Garhauer snatchblock
in the same size that I use on my 38 for $89 on eBay.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/LARGE-Garhauer-opening-Snatch-Block/254192661569?hash=item3b2f103441:g:Hy4AAOSwF2FbqZHn
I sold my old Merriman blocks at a yard sale
Hi David, do you have engine heated hot water on your boat? If so, you
could disconnect those hoses. Run one to an empty 5 gal bucket and the
other to one with fresh water. Run the engine until the fluid coming out is
clear. You could do this a couple of time to flush the system then refill
with DH
For my Westerbeke, which is also a pain to drain, my mechanic suggested
installing a valve in the lower heat exchanger hose and, once annually, drain
what will come out and add new stuff. He said I will not get all the
antifreeze out doing it this way, but if I do it annually it won’t matter.
" I don’t know if the chain plate bulkheads are cored or solid fiberglass "
On the 35 Mk.1 they are plywood with fiberglass on one side.
Ken H.
On Wed, 10 Apr 2019 at 18:38, Kurt Heckert via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> The Chainplates on the 35-2 are easily accessible behind the
To follow up, I found what I am pretty sure is the drain plug near the oil dip
stick and near enough to the front of the engine to be visible. It appears to
be soft brass because it the head was already damaged by someone trying to
remove it before I tried to get a wrench on it. I was unable t
Hi Dave
I've got the ATN set, and use it with a climbing harness. I find it is
excellent for going up the mast but painfully slow getting down, so I use a
hybrid approach. I attach a line to my harness (tied, not clipped), which is
used as a safety line on the way up. Once I'm done up there
30 matches
Mail list logo
