I had a portable unit in the aft cabin (on the 38lf) that would slide out of
the way when not in use. 14500 btu from costco $400.00.The exhaust air was too
hot. Cooled the boat thought. I have since gone to hatch mounted cruiseair.
Quiet and cools the boat quickly. Bought used for $200.00Jim Sc
I have been using the main sheet eye as attachment for my temporary
preventers, but the angle to the toe rail is far from 90 degrees. If I can
find a way to create a new, strong attachment point aft of the vang
attachment eye, then I think I'll get a better angle.
In a Nov-Dec 1998 article in Good
We got a small 120v window unit and built a bracket for the companion way
Neil Andersen
20691 Jamieson Rd
Rock Hall, MD 21661
From: CnC-List on behalf of David Kaseler via
CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, July 15, 2017 12:43:42 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: David Kas
I used to go up to Baltimore each Labor day weekend for the Indy Car races.
Hot.. I took a small 120v window unit and built a platform for the foredeck
to mount it over the hatch with a couple of side pieces (and a little duct
tape). Stuffed enough air in there to keep the cabin cool. As it came ap
Have you looked at a split AC system? They take up less space in the cabin.
Have you looked at installing a unit under the V-berth?
Otherwise, a 120 VAC window unit in the companionway is an inexpensive
solution. Seen a bunch of them here on the Gulf Coast. Keep in mind,
storing one of those i
What about a wind scoop? We built one for our black hulled boat SLY. Works
pretty good here in the northwest.
Dave.
1975 C&C 33 SLY
Sent from my iPad
> On Jul 15, 2017, at 9:28 AM, kelly petew via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> Hello Listers,
>
> On these really, hot days here on the Chesapeake, I am
Hello Listers,
On these really, hot days here on the Chesapeake, I am looking for ways to
best cool the interior of my C&C 30-2, but I can't afford to give up interior
space for a "built-in" air-conditioning system. Nor, can I afford to store
below one of those Cruise-Air Units that go in the
Hi,Took a few pictures yesterday to show my Lewmar setup, never used a photo
display site before so I hope access will work ( Google 10 new photos added to
shared album )
Still working on my boat so just focus on sailing hardware please :-)
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10 new photos add
I put a bail on the boom about half way back. The clip on the preventer line
goes from that, forward to a snatch block on the rail just in front of the
shrouds, and then back to a cleat mounted on the cabin top. In my opinion, the
preventer is to prevent a swinging boom, not to stop one. When go
I have a DIY boom break. You just need a figure 8 climbing descender and a
heavy line (1/2" or more). Descender is attaches to where your vang is on the
boom and the line goes through the descender and attaches to two toe rails. In
case of a gybe your boom will very slowing move over. Much nicer
On my boat, I installed two spinnaker pole downhauls, one on each side of the
boat, on a block attached close to the bow. These downhaul then head back to
the cockpit. I use these downhaul for the spinnaker of course, but also as a
preventer, attached to the main sheet eye at the end of the boom
Not sure I follow. Considering that the toe rail as holes from bow to stern, I
can get a perpendicular angle in both dimensions and in a shorter distance than
at the end of the boom.
We typically don't use a preventer un less we are in a broad reach or run with
the boom out a good way.
Neil
C
No, I have a "rope" vang. Your idea is a good one, but I would like to have
permanent preventers running to both sides and adjustable from the cockpit.
On Fri, Jul 14, 2017 at 11:20 PM, Neil Andersen <
neil.eric.ander...@gmail.com> wrote:
> I assume you have a hard vang? We have one made of lin
There are some who advocate against using the vang attachment point and if
you think about it, it makes sense.
The vang is too close to the mast so all of the force on the sail will
result in huge leverage forces. I've heard of broken booms as a result.
The ideal is to use the main sheet eye so l
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