For a more or less "hands-free" method, I inserted a valve in the side of one
of those larger, plastic buckets [e.g., a painter's bucket]. The valve was
purchased at local hardware store, and it goes through the side of the bucket,
of course, held in place by a threaded fitting. I sealed it t
Bill
You make a good point. Winterizing is differnt for different boats and
different systems and different sailors...it helps when we describe the
systems we are winterizing...I responded with my approach to David who
asked specifically about the Universal M4-30 because I winterize that
engine ev
That is definitely a better alternative to what I do, it's just that my
strainer is behind the engine, and if I did that I would be disemboweled by
the alternator!
Bill Coleman
C&C 39
-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Eric
Frank
Sent:
Marek:
I use basically the same method as Dwightbucket with hose in it in
the cockpit with a hose running from it to the intake on the water pump
to fresh water pump.then let the engine pump the fresh water out and
I put a 50/50 antifreeze in the bucket (2 gallons) but my Yanmar 2GMF
I got to play this game when I changed from a regular prop to a Max
Prop...it turned out the shaft was slightly warped, radially. The machinist
said it had probably had something like an anchor rode wrap on it, and
there was no way to straighten it. So I got a new shaft, new coupling, new
PSS, and
One of the requirements for the bellows is to resist the twisting force from
the prop shaft rotation. I suspect PYI and their suppliers have looked at many
materials and manufacturing techniques to find the best compromise between
strength and flexibility with an eye for cost.
IIRC back in the
Jim - A great site. Thanks so much. He makes a strong case for not re-using
the old coupling, and mine is certainly rusted. Would your suggestion be to let
the yard finish the job?
On Nov 14, 2013, at 12:00 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> From: Jim Watts
> To: 1 CnC List
> Subjec
Don't forget to open the sea ok for the cooling water after the antifreeze
treatment and let the line drain.
Rich
> On Nov 14, 2013, at 13:32, Robert Abbott wrote:
>
> One of the contractors that does a lot of work around our club uses this
> method (Eric's strainer method).on most boats
Marek
I live in what some would call up north and it can get pretty darn cold
here in Jan/ Feb and as I said I use 4 liters of 50/50 mix to winterize my
engine heat exchanger system. The engine block itself always has 50/50 in
it and this year I drained and renewed the coolant for the first time
One of the contractors that does a lot of work around our club uses this
method (Eric's strainer method).on most boats he does, it's a two
person jobone to access the strainer and pour, one to start and stop
the engine. It's pretty simple and we usually open up the strainer to
clean it
Yeah - I've been Doing the same for about 10 years now! I also pull the raw water impeller.I sail on a lake so no need to flush with fresh water. Boat lives in Alberta, Canada so temp may get down to -30+ (...or should that be -30-) in January or February. Engine still OK after 10 years. SamC&C 26
That’s what I do, too. It seems to work just fine, and I use about 1-1/2
gallons of pure -50F non-toxic antifreeze in the process.
Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI :^(
On Nov 14, 2013, at 9:46 AM, Eric Frank wrote:
> A possible sim
And now...the right way to do it:
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/pss_shaft_seal
"Maine Sail" has a whole gallery of how to do things right.
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/boat_projects
In my experience, he is dead on with every recommendation. I have found
this to be the best source of ac
I am surprised how little antifreeze some of you use. I put 18 l (5 US gal -
two large jugs) through my engine. At about $10 at Home Depot, this is a very
cheap insurance. Antifreeze mixes up with water in the heat exchanger and the
muffler, so you want to have quite a bit to flush this out. Di
A possible simplification of Bill's Groco Strainer solution?
For the last couple of years I have just taken the lid off the Groco Strainer
and poured in antifreeze as the water pump pumped it out. Needs to stay full
to avoid running the pump dry, but that is easy to do just by watching the
lev
David,
Have you seen this:
http://forums.catalina.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?t=136339? I know that
this is not a C&C, but winterisation is pretty much the same.
It still requires pulling the intake hose off the through-hull, though. But
mine is reasonably easy to take off.
I used this
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My waterlift muffler and heat exchanger have drains. I find that they tend
to seize up and not seal properly if not opened frequently. I don't run
antifreeze through the raw water side. After the usual oil change, fuel
filter change and fresh water flush, I open the drains and let the water
dra
My PYI bellows made it from 1988 to 2012 without issue. The face seal was a bit
worn after all those hours though. I looked into getting a "normal" stuffing
box but they did not have my size anymore, so I have a new PYI now. The spring
in the hose is very important - you can't just use normal ho
David
Here's what I do with my M4-30.
Take the raw water hose off at the pump end (one clamp). Install another
section of hose (about 4 feet long) to the pump and run that to a bucket on
the cabin sole. Fill the bucket with fresh water and start the engine.
Keep the bucket as full as possible w
You would think, but I don't see it on their site, just the rubber one.
Besides, if they did, it would ruin their aftermarket for replacements!
Bill Coleman
C&C 39
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rich
Knowles
Sent: Thursday, November 14, 2013 9:57 AM
To
I have seen that done, so it must work.
Two other suggestions,
Replace your hose with a Silicone hose, ( I said I was a fan), these come
right off and have no memory, kind of like me.
Or, What I did was buy an extra plastic lid for my Groco Strainer, the put a
hole in the middle and put a hose
Hey David I cut the raw water hose just after the shut off and installed
another tee fitting with its own shut off. From that I have another Hose that
can draw directly from the antifreeze container. Its about 6' long. Now I just
shut off the raw water at the hull, start the engine with the new
PYI must have considered this..?
Rich
> On Nov 14, 2013, at 10:43, "Bill Coleman" wrote:
>
> Has anyone ever seen a Silicone bellows, or similar that could be used for
> this?
> I am a big fan of silicone hose, and have seen short connectors on powerboats
> with a pleat in the middle, but not
The easiest solution I have installed is to put a barbed tee fitting in the sea
water intake line with a length of hose with a shut off valve on the empty
barb. To run antifreeze through, simply close the seawater intake, open the
valve on the new piece of hose and put the end of the hose in a b
I am planning to winterize my engine this weekend and it is the first time with the Universal M4-30. On my older 34, I used to pull the intake hose off the seacock and stick it in a bucket of antifreeze and suck it through until pink came out the exhaust. That was always a pain to get the hose of
Has anyone ever seen a Silicone bellows, or similar that could be used for
this?
I am a big fan of silicone hose, and have seen short connectors on
powerboats with a pleat in the middle, but not multiple pleats. I have also
seen a picture of a silicone (I think) bellows on European boat.
Bill
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