David

Here's what I do with my M4-30.

Take the raw water hose off at the pump end (one clamp).  Install another
section of hose (about 4 feet long) to the pump and run that to a bucket on
the cabin sole.  Fill the bucket with fresh water and start the engine.
Keep the bucket as full as possible while the engine is running by emptying
the contents of your fresh water tanks (they need to be emptied anyway so
why not use the water) into it from your galley faucet(or keep it full from
a garden hose attached to a fresh water supply).  That will flush your
pump, all connecting lines, heat exchanger and muffler with lots of fresh
water. Stop the engine and empty the bucket.  Pour 1 full 4 liter jug of
antifreeze concentrate into bucket. Fill the empty 4 liter jug with more
fresh water and add that fresh water to the concentrate in the bucket and
mix to give you 8 liters of a 50/50 mix.  Fill the empty 4 liter jug with 4
liters of the 50/50 mix and save for other jobs, like the head or bilge or
just save it til next year because you will be able to do your cooling
system quite well with 4 liters in total of 50/50 mix. Put the hose which
is attached to the pump into the bucket and make sure it touches the
bottom.  Start the engine and watch for the color change at the exhaust
outlet, let it run a few seconds and stop the engine.  Most of the 4 liters
that was in the bucket should be gone.  Leave the hose attached to the pump
until next spring and support it's open end above the pump.  That way your
pump will be full of the mix and your pump impellor will spend the winter
surrounded by a 50/50 mix of antifreeze and water so the rubber blades will
have a better change of not becoming brittle.

I assume you have a heat exchanger on your engine simialr to mine, but even
if not you could still use this procedure but a raw water cooled engine
will take more antifreeze mixture.  I like the idea of a thorough fresh
water flush before winterizing with antifreeze.  I always change the engine
oil and filter before winterizing so my engine runs for about half an hour
on the fresh oil before the long winter rest.  Our temps can go down to
-20C... I have never had a problem.

Dwight

Dwight Veinot
Alianna
C&C 35 MKII
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS


On Thu, Nov 14, 2013 at 10:47 AM, David Knecht <davidakne...@gmail.com>wrote:

> I am planning to winterize my engine this weekend and it is the first time
> with the Universal M4-30.  On my older 34, I used to pull the intake hose
> off the seacock and stick it in a bucket of antifreeze and suck it through
> until pink came out the exhaust.  That was always a pain to get the hose
> off and find a place to support the bucket and requires two people so I can
> be pouring while someone else watches the rear.
> At the Newport Boat show, I saw a booth advertising the Seaflush- a funnel
> that hooks up to the intake strainer and allows you to put antifreeze in
> without taking the hose off.  A bit of an improvement, but I don’t think
> there is room above the strainer for the device and a jug of antifreeze to
> allow pouring.
> All that made me think about a way to make  this job easier.  My thought
> is to find a size of Tygon (clear plastic flexible) tubing that that can be
> pushed into the intake port of the engine from the outside to make a decent
> seal, then stick the other end of that hose into a bucket of antifreeze.  I
> can sit the bucket on the deck, so it does not have to be lifted against
> gravity from the ground (although I doubt that would matter).  Then I just
> start the engine and run 5 gallons through watching the outlet port for
> pink stuff and the level in the bucket.  Then shut off the engine.  Much
> simpler and in theory can be done single handed.  The key would be finding
> the correct hose size to fit snugly.  Has anyone tried this or have a
> reason why it should not work?    Thanks- Dave
>
>
> David Knecht
> Aries
> 1990 C&C 34+
> New London, CT
>
>
>
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