You would think, but I don't see it on their site, just the rubber one. Besides, if they did, it would ruin their aftermarket for replacements!
Bill Coleman C&C 39 From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rich Knowles Sent: Thursday, November 14, 2013 9:57 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List further questions about replacing the bellows on a PYI shaft seal PYI must have considered this..? Rich On Nov 14, 2013, at 10:43, "Bill Coleman" <colt...@verizon.net> wrote: Has anyone ever seen a Silicone bellows, or similar that could be used for this? I am a big fan of silicone hose, and have seen short connectors on powerboats with a pleat in the middle, but not multiple pleats. I have also seen a picture of a silicone (I think) bellows on European boat. Bill Coleman C&C 39 <image001.gif> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jim Watts Sent: Monday, November 11, 2013 11:24 AM To: 1 CnC List Subject: Re: Stus-List further questions about replacing the bellows on a PYI shaft seal The usual method is to use longer bolts in the coupler with a good solid socket in the middle. As you tighten the coupler on the shaft up to the other half the socket pushes the shaft out. If that doesn't work, it's usually cut-off wheel time. A better penetrating oil than PB Blaster is a 50/50 mix of ATF (automatic transmission fluid) and acetone. On 11 November 2013 07:44, Joel Aronson <joel.aron...@gmail.com> wrote: Eric, IF PB Blaster doesn't work, you might try heat on the coupler. Get two pipe wrenches - shaft and coupler. Heat and twist. If that fails, use a gear puller or make one with a small piece of 1/4 inch thick metal, drill holes to match the coupler and a threaded center hole for a decent size bolt. Bolt the plate to the coupler and use the center bolt to push the shaft out. Joel 35/3 Annapolis On Mon, Nov 11, 2013 at 10:23 AM, Eric Frank <efran...@mac.com> wrote: Thanks to the list's advice last week about getting the bolts loose on the universal to shaft coupling, I got them all out with an impact wrench. Worked beautifully. But now I am stuck again getting the shaft coupling off the prop shaft. Removed the bolts that grip the coupling to the shaft and also a square-headed bolt in the coupling that probably fits into a keyway in the shaft, but I can't break the shaft loose from the coupling. I tried holding the coupling from turning with a pipe wrench and trying to turn the prop shaft (by gripping the sacrificial zinc on the shaft with a big vice grips so as not to damage the shaft itself), but it didn't budge. And of course I don't want to damage anything. One possibility would be to slide the shaft as far aft as possible (since it is disconnected from the universal and the SS PYI piece (that acts as the bearing up against the bellows) that is on the shaft slides forward on the shaft) and then get a small wheel puller on the coupling so it would push the shaft out of the coupling. I have no experience with wheel pullers but it seems that it might work. But I would really value input from the list about how to proceed. Apparently the salt water leaking around the bellows this summer rusted the coupler sufficiently that it is really stuck. Eric Frank Cat's Paw C&C 35 Mk II Mattapoisett, MA _______________________________________________ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com -- Joel 301 541 8551 <tel:301%20541%208551> _______________________________________________ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com -- Jim Watts Paradigm Shift C&C 35 Mk III Victoria, BC _______________________________________________ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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