Dennis and Joe,
I sent Dennis a pic of mine and what I have is the following from the rudder up;
1) A flat 1/4" Acetal washer (bearing) on top of the rudder outside the hull
giving some space for the rudder to swing under the faired extension to the
hull.
2) A piece of circular SS screwed into the top of the cockpit sole through
which the threaded part of the rudder post rises and which acts as a load
bearing surface
3) Another flat 1/4" Acetal washer (bearing) on that piece
4) The threaded cap nut with 2 set screws and a square nut for the emergency
tiller. There is no room in the threaded part to permit a thicker washer on
the sole and it appears the old one was there for years.
When I visited the site last night, I poked my flashlight underneat and noticed
the quadrant is currently bolted to the shaft a small distance up from the
rudder tube but as I haven't yet adjusted it to match the pulleys, I don't know
if I could or should install another acetal washer there as well to keep the
grease in and the water out.
Any ideas?
Alex Giannelia
CC 35-II 1974 to be renamed after re-launch
TORONTO, Ontario
ag@@airsensing.com
------------------------------
Message: 2
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2013 21:12:54 -0500
From: "Della Barba, Joe" <joe.della.ba...@ssa.gov>
To: "Dennis C." <capt...@yahoo.com>, "cnc-list@cnc-list.com"
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rudder bearing
Message-ID:
<1073606396712942aee54d9a960e45a718ba2f6...@hq-mb-07.ba.ad.ssa.gov>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
I did the same. It is actually quite vital, when it gets loose the rudder tube
is stressed with side to side motions.
Joe Della Barba
Coquina C&C 35 MK I
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C.
Sent: Wednesday, November 13, 2013 6:03 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rudder bearing
Alex,
I had upper rudder bearing remade. On Touche' it's screwed to cockpit bulkhead
at top of rudder post. Sent you a pic.
Dennis
________________________________
From: Alex Giannelia <a...@airsensing.com<mailto:a...@airsensing.com>>
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>"
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Sent: Wednesday, November 13, 2013 4:08 PM
Subject: Stus-List Rudder bearing
Dennis,
I just went through the exercise of replacing the washers and noticed that
there wasn't more than 1/4" room for a washer between the nut and cockpit sole,
so where would you get the room to fit 1/2" under there?
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Message: 3
Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2013 00:01:19 -0400
From: Rich Knowles <r...@sailpower.ca>
To: w...@wbryant.com, cnc-list Cnc-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List bleeding fuel lines
Message-ID: <3599278e-443f-4fcb-b60d-6a9808f8f...@sailpower.ca>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
We're merely keeping our health benefits active. Nothing to do with pumps,
other than hearts.
Rich
On Nov 13, 2013, at 8:58 PM, Wally Bryant <w...@wbryant.com> wrote:
, I realized that the guy was from Canada and had pulled his boat annually.
Even in Mexico he was pulling his boat for the summer and heading north.
------------------------------
Message: 4
Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2013 09:43:23 -0500
From: "Bill Coleman" <colt...@verizon.net>
To: <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List further questions about replacing the bellows
on a PYI shaft seal
Message-ID: <02d801cee147$dfae6900$9f0b3b00$@net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Has anyone ever seen a Silicone bellows, or similar that could be used for this?
I am a big fan of silicone hose, and have seen short connectors on powerboats
with a pleat in the middle, but not multiple pleats. I have also seen a picture
of a silicone (I think) bellows on European boat.
Bill Coleman
C&C 39 animated_favicon1
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jim Watts
Sent: Monday, November 11, 2013 11:24 AM
To: 1 CnC List
Subject: Re: Stus-List further questions about replacing the bellows on a PYI
shaft seal
The usual method is to use longer bolts in the coupler with a good solid socket
in the middle. As you tighten the coupler on the shaft up to the other half the
socket pushes the shaft out. If that doesn't work, it's usually cut-off wheel
time.
A better penetrating oil than PB Blaster is a 50/50 mix of ATF (automatic
transmission fluid) and acetone.
On 11 November 2013 07:44, Joel Aronson <joel.aron...@gmail.com> wrote:
Eric,
IF PB Blaster doesn't work, you might try heat on the coupler. Get two pipe
wrenches - shaft and coupler. Heat and twist.
If that fails, use a gear puller or make one with a small piece of 1/4 inch
thick metal, drill holes to match the coupler and a threaded center hole for a
decent size bolt. Bolt the plate to the coupler and use the center bolt to
push the shaft out.
Joel
35/3
Annapolis
On Mon, Nov 11, 2013 at 10:23 AM, Eric Frank <efran...@mac.com> wrote:
Thanks to the list's advice last week about getting the bolts loose on the
universal to shaft coupling, I got them all out with an impact wrench.
Worked beautifully. But now I am stuck again getting the shaft coupling off the
prop shaft. Removed the bolts that grip the coupling to the shaft and also a
square-headed bolt in the coupling that probably fits into a keyway in the
shaft, but I can't break the shaft loose from the coupling. I tried holding
the coupling from turning with a pipe wrench and trying to turn the prop shaft
(by gripping the sacrificial zinc on the shaft with a big vice grips so as not
to damage the shaft itself), but it didn't budge. And of course I don't want
to damage anything.
One possibility would be to slide the shaft as far aft as possible (since it is
disconnected from the universal and the SS PYI piece (that acts as the bearing
up against the bellows) that is on the shaft slides forward on the
shaft) and then get a small wheel puller on the coupling so it would push the
shaft out of the coupling. I have no experience with wheel pullers but it
seems that it might work.
But I would really value input from the list about how to proceed.
Apparently the salt water leaking around the bellows this summer rusted the
coupler sufficiently that it is really stuck.
Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C&C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA
_______________________________________________
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
--
Joel
301 541 8551 <tel:301%20541%208551>
_______________________________________________
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
--
Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC
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Message: 5
Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2013 09:47:08 -0500
From: David Knecht <davidakne...@gmail.com>
To: CnC CnC discussion list <CnC-List@cnc-list.com>
Subject: Stus-List winterizing engine
Message-ID: <f59057b3-4e86-4342-a596-47d267826...@gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252"
I am planning to winterize my engine this weekend and it is the first time with
the Universal M4-30. On my older 34, I used to pull the intake hose off the
seacock and stick it in a bucket of antifreeze and suck it through until pink
came out the exhaust. That was always a pain to get the hose off and find a
place to support the bucket and requires two people so I can be pouring while
someone else watches the rear.
At the Newport Boat show, I saw a booth advertising the Seaflush- a funnel that
hooks up to the intake strainer and allows you to put antifreeze in without
taking the hose off. A bit of an improvement, but I don?t think there is room
above the strainer for the device and a jug of antifreeze to allow pouring.
All that made me think about a way to make this job easier. My thought is to
find a size of Tygon (clear plastic flexible) tubing that that can be pushed
into the intake port of the engine from the outside to make a decent seal, then
stick the other end of that hose into a bucket of antifreeze. I can sit the
bucket on the deck, so it does not have to be lifted against gravity from the
ground (although I doubt that would matter). Then I just start the engine and
run 5 gallons through watching the outlet port for pink stuff and the level in
the bucket. Then shut off the engine. Much simpler and in theory can be done
single handed. The key would be finding the correct hose size to fit snugly.
Has anyone tried this or have a reason why it should not work? Thanks- Dave
David Knecht
Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT
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------------------------------
Message: 6
Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2013 10:55:34 -0400
From: Rich Knowles <r...@sailpower.ca>
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List winterizing engine
Message-ID: <1e5be5e7-3fb2-4803-8f7e-f2f3d8aa1...@sailpower.ca>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
The easiest solution I have installed is to put a barbed tee fitting in the sea
water intake line with a length of hose with a shut off valve on the empty
barb. To run antifreeze through, simply close the seawater intake, open the
valve on the new piece of hose and put the end of the hose in a bucket. Most
small diesels will swallow up about two gallons. The tee can be installed
anywhere in the line convenient.
Rich
> On Nov 14, 2013, at 10:47, David Knecht <davidakne...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> I am planning to winterize my engine this weekend and it is the first time
> with the Universal M4-30. On my older 34, I used to pull the intake hose off
> the seacock and stick it in a bucket of antifreeze and suck it through until
> pink came out the exhaust. That was always a pain to get the hose off and
> find a place to support the bucket and requires two people so I can be
> pouring while someone else watches the rear.
> At the Newport Boat show, I saw a booth advertising the Seaflush- a funnel
> that hooks up to the intake strainer and allows you to put antifreeze in
> without taking the hose off. A bit of an improvement, but I don?t think
> there is room above the strainer for the device and a jug of antifreeze to
> allow pouring.
> All that made me think about a way to make this job easier. My thought is
> to find a size of Tygon (clear plastic flexible) tubing that that can be
> pushed into the intake port of the engine from the outside to make a decent
> seal, then stick the other end of that hose into a bucket of antifreeze. I
> can sit the bucket on the deck, so it does not have to be lifted against
> gravity from the ground (although I doubt that would matter). Then I just
> start the engine and run 5 gallons through watching the outlet port for pink
> stuff and the level in the bucket. Then shut off the engine. Much simpler
> and in theory can be done single handed. The key would be finding the
> correct hose size to fit snugly. Has anyone tried this or have a reason why
> it should not work? Thanks- Dave
>
>
> David Knecht
> Aries
> 1990 C&C 34+
> New London, CT
>
> <pastedGraphic.tiff>
>
> _______________________________________________
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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Message: 7
Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2013 10:57:04 -0400
From: Rich Knowles <r...@sailpower.ca>
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List further questions about replacing the bellows
on a PYI shaft seal
Message-ID: <c7dbbecd-47db-4631-825e-813e3a2e0...@sailpower.ca>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
PYI must have considered this..?
Rich
> On Nov 14, 2013, at 10:43, "Bill Coleman" <colt...@verizon.net> wrote:
>
> Has anyone ever seen a Silicone bellows, or similar that could be used for
> this?
> I am a big fan of silicone hose, and have seen short connectors on powerboats
> with a pleat in the middle, but not multiple pleats. I have also seen a
> picture of a silicone (I think) bellows on European boat.
>
> Bill Coleman
> C&C 39 <image001.gif>
>
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jim
> Watts
> Sent: Monday, November 11, 2013 11:24 AM
> To: 1 CnC List
> Subject: Re: Stus-List further questions about replacing the bellows
> on a PYI shaft seal
>
> The usual method is to use longer bolts in the coupler with a good solid
> socket in the middle. As you tighten the coupler on the shaft up to the other
> half the socket pushes the shaft out. If that doesn't work, it's usually
> cut-off wheel time.
> A better penetrating oil than PB Blaster is a 50/50 mix of ATF (automatic
> transmission fluid) and acetone.
>
>
> On 11 November 2013 07:44, Joel Aronson <joel.aron...@gmail.com> wrote:
> Eric,
>
> IF PB Blaster doesn't work, you might try heat on the coupler. Get two pipe
> wrenches - shaft and coupler. Heat and twist.
> If that fails, use a gear puller or make one with a small piece of 1/4 inch
> thick metal, drill holes to match the coupler and a threaded center hole for
> a decent size bolt. Bolt the plate to the coupler and use the center bolt to
> push the shaft out.
>
> Joel
> 35/3
> Annapolis
>
>
> On Mon, Nov 11, 2013 at 10:23 AM, Eric Frank <efran...@mac.com> wrote:
> Thanks to the list's advice last week about getting the bolts loose on the
> universal to shaft coupling, I got them all out with an impact wrench.
> Worked beautifully. But now I am stuck again getting the shaft coupling off
> the prop shaft. Removed the bolts that grip the coupling to the shaft and
> also a square-headed bolt in the coupling that probably fits into a keyway in
> the shaft, but I can't break the shaft loose from the coupling. I tried
> holding the coupling from turning with a pipe wrench and trying to turn the
> prop shaft (by gripping the sacrificial zinc on the shaft with a big vice
> grips so as not to damage the shaft itself), but it didn't budge. And of
> course I don't want to damage anything.
>
> One possibility would be to slide the shaft as far aft as possible (since it
> is disconnected from the universal and the SS PYI piece (that acts as the
> bearing up against the bellows) that is on the shaft slides forward on the
> shaft) and then get a small wheel puller on the coupling so it would push the
> shaft out of the coupling. I have no experience with wheel pullers but it
> seems that it might work.
>
> But I would really value input from the list about how to proceed.
> Apparently the salt water leaking around the bellows this summer rusted the
> coupler sufficiently that it is really stuck.
>
> Eric Frank
> Cat's Paw
> C&C 35 Mk II
> Mattapoisett, MA
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>
>
> --
> Joel
> 301 541 8551
>
> _______________________________________________
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>
>
>
> --
> Jim Watts
> Paradigm Shift
> C&C 35 Mk III
> Victoria, BC
> _______________________________________________
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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Message: 8
Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2013 10:57:44 -0400
From: Greg Sutherland <bluenosesail...@hotmail.com>
To: <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List winterizing engine
Message-ID: <blu403-eas1551a8a60a97df3d9a0384eb1...@phx.gbl>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
Hey David I cut the raw water hose just after the shut off and installed
another tee fitting with its own shut off. From that I have another Hose that
can draw directly from the antifreeze container. Its about 6' long. Now I just
shut off the raw water at the hull, start the engine with the new hose in the
antifreeze and open the second valve. Once I see the fluid coming out of the
exhaust, I shut it down. All done. Took me 5 minutes or so. Because the new
shut off and hose are installed in line but before the strainer, in an
emergency it can be used as another bilge pump.
Hope this helps,
Greg
87 - 33-2.
Halifax
From: David Knecht
Sent: Thursday, November 14, 2013 10:47 AM
To: CnC CnC discussion list
Reply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List winterizing engine
I am planning to winterize my engine this weekend and it is the first time with
the Universal M4-30. On my older 34, I used to pull the intake hose off the
seacock and stick it in a bucket of antifreeze and suck it through until pink
came out the exhaust. That was always a pain to get the hose off and find a
place to support the bucket and requires two people so I can be pouring while
someone else watches the rear.
At the Newport Boat show, I saw a booth advertising the Seaflush- a funnel that
hooks up to the intake strainer and allows you to put antifreeze in without
taking the hose off. A bit of an improvement, but I don?t think there is room
above the strainer for the device and a jug of antifreeze to allow pouring.
All that made me think about a way to make this job easier. My thought is to
find a size of Tygon (clear plastic flexible) tubing that that can be pushed
into the intake port of the engine from the outside to make a decent seal, then
stick the other end of that hose into a bucket of antifreeze. I can sit the
bucket on the deck, so it does not have to be lifted against gravity from the
ground (although I doubt that would matter). Then I just start the engine and
run 5 gallons through watching the outlet port for pink stuff and the level in
the bucket. Then shut off the engine. Much simpler and in theory can be done
single handed. The key would be finding the correct hose size to fit snugly.
Has anyone tried this or have a reason why it should not work? Thanks- Dave
David Knecht
Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT
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Subject: Digest Footer
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------------------------------
End of CnC-List Digest, Vol 94, Issue 43
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