I got to play this game when I changed from a regular prop to a Max
Prop...it turned out the shaft was slightly warped, radially. The machinist
said it had probably had something like an anchor rode wrap on it, and
there was no way to straighten it. So I got a new shaft, new coupling, new
PSS, and I got to see it all go together.

The thing about a new coupling is that you have to get the shaft out of the
boat so it can be properly mated and faced, and that's a whole new can of
worms because if the shaft is out, you may as well get it checked for
straightness and runout and that is frequently bad news. I got a split
coupling machined from solid stock, which is light-years ahead of the old
one which had a dimpled set screw, and which should be much easier to
remove when the time comes.

So, a conditional "yes" to replacing the coupling, but be aware of what the
job can morph into. I started out just replacing the cutless bearing...


On 14 November 2013 10:02, Eric Frank <efran...@mac.com> wrote:

> Jim - A great site.  Thanks so much.  He makes a strong case for not
> re-using the old coupling, and mine is certainly rusted. Would your
> suggestion be to let the yard finish the job?
>
> On Nov 14, 2013, at 12:00 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
>
> > From: Jim Watts <paradigmat...@gmail.com>
> > To: 1 CnC List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> > Subject: Re: Stus-List further questions about replacing the bellows
> >       on a PYI shaft seal
> >
> > And now...the right way to do it:
> > http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/pss_shaft_seal
> >
> > "Maine Sail" has a whole gallery of how to do things right.
> > http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/boat_projects
> >
> > In my experience, he is dead on with every recommendation. I have found
> > this to be the best source of accurate information for most projects, and
> > he has lots of pictures, which helps a lot.
> >
>
>
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>



-- 
Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC
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