Sorry for the typo, I meant 5:1… Honestly.
I’d not read the information about Fortress recommending setting the anchor at
2.5:1. Next time I use mine I will try that. A fortress can be a bitch to set.
I have also read comments about Fortress anchors “floating” along a soft bottom
as a result
Btw - my comment on the Murray Canal to Cobourg trip is just one of
many anecdotes about that route. Anyone who's done much Lake Ontario
sailing will have a similar story about that leg.
On 7/25/13, Stevan Plavsa wrote:
> "Tack the baby", nice. Boy am I glad I asked, that was some really helpful
Mike
Stainless and aluminum = lots of corrosion.
John and Maryann
Legacy III
1982 C&C 34
Noank, CT
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Neil
Gallagher
Sent: Thursday, July 25, 2013 9:26 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List HELP alu
I'm rockin 50 feet of chain and a bunch of rode with the 35 lb CQR. Based
on what I've been reading I think this is pretty good. Chain has some
surface rust but nothing I would think is a problem. I'm guessing anyone's
galvanized steel chain looks like this soon enough, especially in salt
water?
S
"Tack the baby", nice. Boy am I glad I asked, that was some really helpful
feedback thank you!
Thanks all so much for all the helpful advise, this is really the greatest
mailing list of all time.
Allan, if we make a stop out your way I'll be sure to call on you. I'm sure
it won't be difficult to
MIke: stainless at Bolt Depot:
http://www.boltdepot.com/Machine_screws_Slotted_flat_head_Stainless_steel_18-8_1_2-13.aspx
Neil Gallagher
35-1 Weatherly
Glen Cove, NY
On 7/25/2013 9:09 PM, Persuasion wrote:
Help
I was working on my pedestal this past weekend and one of the aluminum
bolts only
Help
I was working on my pedestal this past weekend and one of the aluminum bolts
only loosened about 1 1/2 turns then seized. All I could do was drill it out.
Now I’m having difficulty finding a replacement. I called Edson and they
advised me that they no longer carry the 6” bolt. Thanks C
Steve
I’ve being going to the Island since 2000. For a while from Montreal and for a
while from Whitby and now from Long Sault. Back in the day (before echarts) we
used Richardson’s and Ports. From Whitby it’s4 a short hop to Cobourg after
that there is no stopping until Presqu’ile Bay. If y
As back-up to the Garmin chartplotter I have a Dual XGPS150A that picks up a
GPS signal and it works well with Navionics in my wifi-only iPad but I always
carry the paper charts!
Patrick Wesley, The Boat, Sidney BC
Sent from my iPad
On 2013-07-25, at 3:14 PM, Tortuga wrote:
> I have a Bad E
10:1? They'll love you in crowded anchorages. ;-)
I prefer to upsize the tackle and use less scope. (All chain and 66# Bruce)
But then I'm a cruiser and am not concerned with weight.
When you me and Bill had drinks in Annapolis back when, I probably had
less than 3:1 out in Back Creek (or Spa
us contributer was mentioned, who described his first hand
experience with this issue, and the related cost.Is there a way to search
older posts to try to locate this post? Do you think that if a boat does not
exihibit this mast step problem right now (if that what the survey shows
when it's
Mike,
I have currents built into my Garmin GPS, but there were current charts
supplied daily (on paper). The currents in and around the Patuxent swirl in
several directions at once. Finding the tide lines was difficult, as there
weren’t many surface irregularities. Local knowledge was a
I have a Bad Elf GPS that attaches to my IPad or IPod (both Wi-Fi only). It
works well with a variety of mapping apps, including Navionics and Sail
Timer.
(http://bad-elf.com/pages/be-gps-1000-detail)
There are a number of add-on GPS units available.
Derek Kennedy
C&C 30 Mk1 Tortuga
Cape George
Electronic charts are great and I use them, but some contain errors that are
not on paper charts. Best always to use both, and do
some checking on what is considered best for the area. A couple on a catamaran
experienced a nasty grounding when proceding south
out of Elizabeth harbour Exuma this p
Rick,
I used 5:1 in the example. That's the absolute MINIMUM I put out. I usually
use 7:1 scope and increase it to 10:1 for any breeze over 15 knots.
The Admiral and I actually use a simpler system than I described below.
Touche's rode is marked every 30 feet with the pull through markers an
I've done the trip from TO to the 1000 Islands a bunch of times and
anchored a lot there.
Get down to the islands as quickly as you can. Why spend time in Whitby or
the Bluffs when you can easily go to those places for a weekend cruise?
Most folks stop at Cobourg along the way. If you leave ea
Rick, I just signed up for the race over but not the race back. Eagle Cove is a
nice anchorage. Right in front of The Waltjens farm. Nice place, eh? Around the
corner is the Gibson Island boatyard where I painted my boat last year. We
might take a short sail out to Dobbins tomorrow night, if so,
I was about to make the same point when I read Andy's post.
My practice is to drop the hook and let out rode to my target length as wind
& current take the boat back. Then spend 5 or 10 minutes admiring the
scenery and other boats while the wind and boat motion settle the anchor and
chain into
Rick
Sounds about right! Need to buy a longer chain!
Joel
On Jul 25, 2013, at 4:55 PM, Rick Brass wrote:
The rule of thumb taught me by a wizened old Coast Guard chief about 30
years ago was: At least one pound of anchor and one foor of chain for every
foot of boat length.
In these litigi
Hi Steve,
Hope to see you in my home waters during your vacation. I can
suggest taking the Murray Canal near Brighton while your heading east, nice
scenery and good anchorages in more protected waters if your into that kind of
thing. I'm at Prinyer's Cove, great bay for anchoring o
Hi Joseph,
I will also extend an invitation to see our boat, but it is only a 26, I would
guess all stock, and we are in Frenchman's Bay pickering. Not sure what your
schedule is or your transportation situation but if it works for you let me
know.
Cheers,
Woody
C&C 26 - Goldfinch
Sent wireless
The rule of thumb taught me by a wizened old Coast Guard chief about 30
years ago was: At least one pound of anchor and one foor of chain for every
foot of boat length.
In these litigious days I don't think they publish a guideline any more for
fear of being sued. But the old rule of thumb has
Chris;
Right now I’m anchored in Eagle Cove northeast of Dobbins Island. Thought I
would spend a couple of days exploring the Magothy on my way to the C&C
Rendezvous at Corsica River Yacht Club this weekend.
Tom Vincent, Rich Bushie, and I have talked about rafting up for sundowners
and
Jake, What current charts are you using for the Chesapeake?
thanks,
Mike
Virginia Lee 93295
C&C 36 CB
Virginia Beach, VA
Sent from my iPad
On Jul 25, 2013, at 8:25, "Jake Brodersen" wrote:
> Joel,
>
> We had enough of a lead in the series we didn’t even need to sail the last
> race,
Keith,
I'm doing non-spin on a BendyToy 39. Look for me many hours after you
finish! I can ask around if you like. How skilled a person do you need?
Joel
On Thu, Jul 25, 2013 at 1:06 PM, Morgenstern, Keith E CIV SEA 08 NR <
keith.morgenst...@navy.mil> wrote:
> Any listers out there planning
Hi Joseph,
Sorry to hear about your running aground troubles. I'll be undertaking some
work (always am) on my 32, you're welcome to come have a gander. Boat is at
TS&CC (1391 Lakeshore Blvd West). Not sure when I'll be there but if you
send me your number I can text/phone you when I'm heading down
Like Andy, I used iNavX for navigation use - NOAA charts (free) are
available for the US, and I purchased the Navionics charts for Americas
(two subscriptions that were about $16 each (iirc) for North / South
America). They work well out of range of cell signals (but you need to
ensure your charts
Navionics HD is excellent in Canada and the Caribeean and there is no need for
any network connectivity as long as the IPad is equipped with gps. Highly
recomended. You need to buy the nav upgrade and enhanced map upgrade to get
full usability but those are only $4.99 ea.
From: Andrew Burton [m
Hello Toronto C&C Owners,
My name is Joseph Sisson and in March I posted on Stu's List my story of
running aground with my recently acquired C&C 35 MK II (bought her last August).
Silent Runner remains on the hard in Gore Bay ON while I undertake the
necessary repairs to the rudder, keel and hul
Any listers out there planning on racing the Gov Cup?
And are there any listers in the MD area who want to race with the good
ship Beyond the Sea? We've had two crew drop for schedule and sprained
back issues. So, any takers? We can get you home on early Sunday
morning via car instead of boat.
A
The iPad needs to have a cellar chip. The cellular data plan does not need
to be activated and it works well offshore. I'm using iNavX. I don't know
if they have a Canadian equivalent. For areas outside the US I use
Navionics. Both work very well and it's been a couple of years since I
actually pla
My handheld GPS (Garmin 76c..something) has an anchor alarm. So far I've
only had to use it as a glorified knot meter. I also have a Google Nexus
and an iPhone. The iPhone has plenty of data but a small screen. The nexus
doesn't have data (wifi only) but does have GPS that _seems_ to work
without a
Steve,
It will work as a standalone unit without wifi. It uses the 3g antenna but
works without a signal. There are lots of choices for charts (at least in
the states). Not sure what's available for you. My old navionics app does
not have an anchor alarm. Don't know if the newer/more expensiv
Hi All,
Andrew mentioned he uses his iPad and charting software when anchoring. I
wanted to know if one needed a data connection to use an iPad for
navigation and what software is most recommended. Is it Navionics? I'm
working with the understanding that the iPhone/iPad require a data
connection f
Using a kellet is a good idea but I think also important when using a rope
rode is to have a good length of chain between the anchor and the rode. On
a C&C 32 I would say that about 35 feet of 5/16 inch anchor chain would be
fine for most situations.
I have best success in my favorite anchor
Hi Steven,
Your not alone, and I think it's fair to say there are no bad questions.
Frenchman's bay marina where I am has transient docking, and 2 nice restaurants
close to the docks. If your here I would be happy to come down and say hi.
Whitby is a nice harbour as well. Port of newcastle was
Steve,
Unlike Sailing Anarchy and other forums, here you are among friends! Ask
away!
Joel
On Thu, Jul 25, 2013 at 11:15 AM, Andrew Burton
wrote:
> One thing about anchoring: it's a technique. It's not rocket surgery.
> Don't be intimidated by it.
> And don't be afraid to re-anchor if you're
One thing about anchoring: it's a technique. It's not rocket surgery. Don't
be intimidated by it.
And don't be afraid to re-anchor if you're not happy with your holding or
position. Some skippers are concerned about looking foolish if they have to
make a second (or sixth) attempt. The experienced s
In a new anchorage, I like to circle my spot to check for swing room. When
anchoring off a beach, I go in close until I see minimum depth the make a hard
U-turn. The hard turn leaves a swirl in the water. I move offshore using the
swirl as a mark. Once I'm the desired distance from the swirl, I
You know, I always hesitate when asking really newbish/stupid questions
(anywhere, not just here) but I'm usually happy that I have. Some things
aren't obvious and even more experienced people don't know, because _they_
never asked. It's better to be underestimated than undereducated. The
former us
Coupla more items;
-First in time, first in right. If not sure is you are too close ask.
-Conversely do not be afraid to speak up about a boat anchoring too close after
you are set.
-Feel the road under pressure (reverse). You can feel an anchor dragging.
-plot a course out of anchor
I like using a kellet, too.
One thing I do since I use iNav on my iPad is to make sure the tracking is
turned on, then zoom in all the way on the chart after we're in position.
An arc of lines will show my track as we swing at the hook. If there is a
single line leading to our position from the arc
There is a major problem with relying on most anchor alarms. If you have
100 feet of rode out and set the alarm for 100-150 feet, the alarm will
give many false positives all night long as you swing around. If you
have 100 feet out and set it to 200 feet to allow for a full circle, you
may drag
The operative phrase being "after you've set the anchor." Don't back down
hard until it's dug in a bit. I often see people drop their hook then rev
the engine in reverse and back through the anchorage dragging the anchor
along the bottom.
Andy
C&C 40
Peregrine
On Thu, Jul 25, 2013 at 10:13 AM, De
I forgot to say that I changed out my rope clutches at the same time - the
previous ones were great at chewing up new halyards... Congrats on the
races!
Tim
Mojito
C&C 35-3
Branford, CT
On Thu, Jul 25, 2013 at 5:38 AM, Jake Brodersen wrote:
> Tim,
>
> ** **
>
> 5/16” may be a bit small for
Stevan,
The most common mistake novice anchorers make is to not include the height of
the bow in the calculation of scope. For instance if it is 3 feet from the
water to your bow chock and you are anchoring in 20 feet of water, multiply
your desired scope by 20 + 3. So if you want 5:1 scope, i
Those are some great tips Bill, thanks!
Yes, I have been planning on anchoring off of Toronto Island all summer,
just for this reason but haven't yet. We've got some time still and are
committed to practicing before we leave for the trip. I've done it on
another boat, just not mine, and only for lu
There are a number of apps for smartphones that will alert you if you are
dragging anchor. Drag Queen wins for its name alone!
I'm a relative novice when it comes to anchoring, but I learned quickly
that its not enough to drop the hook and pay out the line. You need to set
the anchor by tying of
I would suggest that if you have little or no experience anchoring, you
go out and practice a little somewhere near home when you are not tired
and the sun is shining. It isn't rocket science, but now is the time to
get familiar with it, rather than at the end of a long day in a strange
harbor.
Hi All,
This will be my first real cruise and I was hoping for some pointers from
other Lake Ontario sailors. I'm looking for tips on places to anchor along
the way and clubs to stay at, places to avoid, things to be aware of. We've
only done overnights at other clubs thus far. We do have the port
Joel,
We had enough of a lead in the series we didn't even need to sail the last
race, but I'd never do that. The last course was set in the mouth of the
Patuxent River. The current and wind were pretty squirrelly. The current
charts were useless, as they would show the current flowing in bo
I agree with Joel, use the mounts from the new Yanmar. They work well and
are easy to adjust.
Jake
Jake Brodersen
C&C 35 Mk-III
Midnight Mistress
Hampton VA
cid:image001.png@01CE3D06.5A990940
On Tue, Jul 23, 2013 at 4:24 PM, Curtis wrote:
I start the p
Search for the following in google, or variations of:
mast step rebuild site:cnc-list.com
Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto
On Wed, Jul 24, 2013 at 9:31 PM, Mark G wrote:
> Andrew,
>
> Maybe Stu or another lister can provide better help, but here's what I
> know about searching older posts:
>
> Th
Rick,
I agree with you. The transition lenses never get dark enough, especially when
in a car or when wearing a hat. Every time I go below and come back topside,
the instant brightness kills me. It takes a couple of minutes for them to
readjust. I should consider leaving them topside wh
Tim,
5/16" may be a bit small for the current rope clutches to hold onto. I
generally run 3/8" hi-tech line and have been happy with it holding in the
clutches. I know it's a bit of overkill, but it works. My ancient Schaefer
clutches still work well. If I went to a smaller halyard, I might
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