10:1? They'll love you in crowded anchorages. ;-) I prefer to upsize the tackle and use less scope. (All chain and 66# Bruce)
But then I'm a cruiser and am not concerned with weight. When you me and Bill had drinks in Annapolis back when, I probably had less than 3:1 out in Back Creek (or Spa, can't remember) and (very nervously) survived a 30 knot squall that came through. The anchorage was so tight for the boat show you either went with no scope, or you went home. Cheers Colin On 7/25/13, Dennis C. <capt...@yahoo.com> wrote: > Rick, > > I used 5:1 in the example. That's the absolute MINIMUM I put out. I > usually use 7:1 scope and increase it to 10:1 for any breeze over 15 knots. > > The Admiral and I actually use a simpler system than I described below. > Touche's rode is marked every 30 feet with the pull through markers and > between every 10 feet with permanent marker. If we anchor in 20 feet of > water and want 5:1 scope, we let out the rode so the 100 foot marker is at > the water, 7:1 would have 140 foot marker "on the water". That way, we > don't have to add the extra height from the water to the bow into the > calculation. > > As for chain length, look to the anchor manufacturer's recommendations. As > a racer, I have a Fortress FX16. Fortress recommends 6 feet of chain for > every 25 feet of water depth one plans to anchor in. I only have 10 feet of > chain on my rode. > > Extra chain can be a detriment with a Fortress anchor. In soft mud the > chain can drag the shank down resulting in the flukes pointing up. For that > reason, Fortress recommends setting the anchor at 2.5:1 scope. This > shortened scope will hold the chain and shank up so the flukes will point > down and dig in. We call this "first hook". In the above example for 20 > foot depth, we would attempt first hook with the 50 foot marker on the > water. Once set, we would let out to the 7:1 or desired scope, allow the > boat to settle downwind or downcurrent of the anchor them back down. > > The Fortress is a great anchor in sand and stiff mud. I find it a bit > troublesome to set in heavy grass beds or shell beds. I've never been > successful getting it to hold in soft mud, particularly since I never put on > the mud palm attachments. > > If I was a cruiser, I would have an appropriately sized Rocna backed up by a > Danforth Hi-Tensile lunch hook. > > Dennis C. > Touche' 35-1 #83 > Mandeville, LA > > > > > >>________________________________ >> From: Rick Brass <rickbr...@earthlink.net> >>To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com >>Sent: Thursday, July 25, 2013 4:15 PM >>Subject: Re: Stus-List Toronto to the Thousand Islands >> >> >> >>I was about to make the same point when I read Andy’s post. >> >>My practice is to drop the hook and let out rode to my target length as >> wind & current take the boat back. Then spend 5 or 10 minutes admiring the >> scenery and other boats while the wind and boat motion settle the anchor >> and chain into the bottom. I usually take bearings on a couple of >> prominent landmarks. Then I back down on the anchor, starting at about >> 1000 rpm to stretch out the rode (I have 65 feet of chain on each of my >> primary anchors, which takes some straightening out at times), then >> increase slowly to about 1600-2000 RPM to dug the anchor into the bottom. >> With this practice there have been very few times I’ve needed to haul and >> re-anchor, and those have been in really soupy mud for the most part. >> >>Dennis used 4:1 scope in his example of how much rode to let out. Most >> folks seem to use 3:1 to 5:1 if you have an all chain rode, and 7:1 to >> 10:1 if your rode is mostly rope. More is better in high winds and waves, >> but you need to be in the same ball park as the boats around you to avoid >> swinging into another boat if the wind changes. >> >> >>Rick Brass >>Washington, NC >> >> >> >>From:CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Andrew >> Burton >>Sent: Thursday, July 25, 2013 10:23 AM >>To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com >>Subject: Re: Stus-List Toronto to the Thousand Islands >> >>The operative phrase being "after you've set the anchor." Don't back down >> hard until it's dug in a bit. I often see people drop their hook then rev >> the engine in reverse and back through the anchorage dragging the anchor >> along the bottom. >>Andy >>C&C 40 >>Peregrine >> >>On Thu, Jul 25, 2013 at 10:13 AM, Dennis C. <capt...@yahoo.com> wrote: >>Stevan, >> >>The most common mistake novice anchorers make is to not include the height >> of the bow in the calculation of scope. For instance if it is 3 feet from >> the water to your bow chock and you are anchoring in 20 feet of water, >> multiply your desired scope by 20 + 3. So if you want 5:1 scope, it would >> be 5 x 23 or 115 feet at the bow chock. >> >>Once you've set the hook, back down HARD and watch an object in the water >> to see if you are dragging. >> >>If your GPS has an anchor alarm (most do), set it and relax. >> >>Dennis C. >> >>Sent from my iPhone >> -- Sent from my mobile device _______________________________________________ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
