Mark;
>From earlier discussions on the various C&C lists over the years, it seems
that C&C built a lot of rudders with stainless rudder shafts and mild steel
webs - and that a lot of these rudders had weep holes in them so they could
dry out over the winter. It looks like the two spots might be
Steve, seems to me this is your first season with the boat? Never ass-u-me,
but if we allow the PO probably used it as a sail boat set up as is, the
most common problem I've found is halyard tension. Probably because of no
restrainer, it's more important, but there seems to be a sweet spot betwee
Hi Dennis,
The restrainer may be in my future. Right now I have a pemanent pendant at the
head of my sail that positions the furler swivel correctly.
Do you recommend any certain brand, or size?
Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Atlantic City, NJ
- Original Message -
From: "Dennis C."
The talk about Ultrafurl and Harken furlers on the list reminded me of
something I'd been asked to do:
A friend of mine had a Catalina 38 with an old Hood furler for which parts
were no longer available. He bought himself a Harken furler (model unknown)
with 50+ feet of luff extrusion to install o
Back about 12 years ago I was shopping for a bigger boat to replace my 25,
and decided that the 33-1 was probably the best looking sailboat ever made -
with the possible exception of the 62/63/65 foot Swan. Then again that was
before I saw my 38. I can see the resemblance though, and Rob Ball did
Yes, I had noticed that rusty spot on
the rudder.
I've never had to deal with something like that in the past -
anyone have ideas on cost? I'm assuming rust means the inner frame
will be shot and it is not "fixable".
Never seem rails attached like tha
On my 30-1 we found the cups and associated grease exit hole so badly cruded up
that we had to take out the cup and the fitting which was screwed into the
fiberglass and clean it up.
After that, we filled the cup and rotated a bit to get the grease out the exit
and replaced into the rudder tube.
Hey Mark,
I concur with Grahams comments and can attest to not encountering any issues
with a boat drawing 6’5” in the local waters.
Scott Brown
Breezin’
C&C 35- III
From: Graham Collins
Sent: Monday, July 15, 2013 10:00 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Going looking
Hi Mark
Budget for a new rudder - the weeping out the sides of it are a clear
sign. A good survey would find that - heck, a bad survey better find
that. Also the wiring looks a bit amateur in the shot from inside
looking aft. What is with the rails attached to the cockpit locker
lids? It a
Allan,
You have a good recollection of the last 30-2. It was totaled after falling
over on the hard in Annapolis. Not sure what happened to it after that. Maybe
somebody fixed it up. It was a great boat.
Greg is still racing, but on an Elliott 770 now. He helped me a lot when I got
I'd take a closer look at what's coming out of the rudder in pic #9. I'm no
expert. Looks like rust. I'm curious what others think.
Also, the listing states/implies that the hull is cored. "Regular" 33-1's
have solid hulls, which might be preferable for a boat of this vintage.
Again, I'm no expert.
I'm setting up an appointment to go look at a C&C 33 tomorrow.
A few of the boats I've been watching have sold or have dropped off
the market (presumably not getting near the asking prices).
This C&C is local - Broker says it "needs an interior refresh"
but is
>>> energy required to turn it is quite high, I have to go forward and
>>> manually turn the drum to furl or unfurl the sail. How can I
>>> troubleshoot this? I'm nervous that this will require some forestay
>>> action but I'm hoping not.
>>> Accor
Sam,
A properly sized furling line shouldn't overfill the drum. The furling line
should exit the drum at 90 degrees to the forestay. Too high and it will fill
the top of the drum; too low and it will fill the bottom of the drum.
Dennis C.
>
> From: "sam.c.
To stop furling lines binding up in the drum, de core the furling line that wraps around the drum. Leave the core in at the end of the line where you handle it. This will reduce the bulk on the drum by half.
One of the most common problems is the second issue listed below. I think
Harken recommends a minimum divergence angle between forestay and halyard of 7
degrees. If you have a Harken furler, please consider a halyard restrainer to
create that divergence. My buddy and I have installed several
Not for my boat. Touche' has a Harken Mk III. Love it.
Nope, this is on a CS33. My buddy and I install Harken furlers. I'm the mast
monkey.
If the old furlers are not in too bad condition, I usually them for a couple
hundred $$ on eBay.
Unfortunately, I tried to disassemble this Seafurl
Jim, I've had a 30-2 for 14 years now, what I do know about them: first 4 built
were 1987 models, they had plexiglass sliding doors for the galley storage and
the panel behind the companionway steps was hinged opening to the aft cabin.
The bulk of the boats were 1988 models. Some 1989 models had
What grease should be used??
On Sun, Jul 14, 2013 at 11:10 PM, Jim Reinardy wrote:
> Blair,
>
> There is an access panel in the ceiling of the very back of the aft berth.
> Take those screws out and remove the panel. Mine also has an drain pan
> above that. Once that is gone, you have a pret
Some troubleshooting tips from a Harken manual that may apply to others
Sail will not furl or is difficult to furl.
Jib halyard is wrapping around headstay because
angle between mast and and halyard is too shallow
See installation instructions regarding optimal halyard angle. It may be
necessary
> We've also had experience where there was not enough backstay tension
> causing the foil to sag giving the impression of 'stop, turn, stop' as you
> fight the curve.
With Calypso's Harken system both halyard and backstay tension have to be
"tight" to avoid excessive resistance or halyard wrap.
Swt.
In a message dated 7/15/2013 12:20:24 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
capt...@yahoo.com writes:
Coincidence. I'm dropping an old Hood Seafoil 2536 today. Close cousin
of an Ultrafurl. Replacing it with a Harken Mk IV
Dennis C
Sent from my iPhone
On Jul 15, 2013, at 9:24 AM, "
Coincidence. I'm dropping an old Hood Seafoil 2536 today. Close cousin of an
Ultrafurl. Replacing it with a Harken Mk IV
Dennis C
Sent from my iPhone
On Jul 15, 2013, at 9:24 AM, "Prime Interest" wrote:
> We've also had experience where there was not enough backstay tension
> causing the
We've also had experience where there was not enough backstay tension
causing the foil to sag giving the impression of 'stop, turn, stop' as you
fight the curve.
Ed
Prime Interest
1982 C&C 38 Landfall
Toronto, Canada
-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.
Halyard wrapping is the most likely culprit
In a message dated 7/15/2013 9:22:53 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
bushma...@aol.com writes:
Steven that sounds like a halyard may be catching the furler at the top of
the mast, and getting wrapped up in the sail...;
Richard
1987 33-II; Ohio Ri
OTOH I have no interest at all in being able to get my boat on a trailer. I
don't own a vehicle that could possibly tow it and have no plans to ever get
one. AFAIK my boat has never ever moved anyplace on a trailer in 40 years.
I think the overlap between people who want a trailerable sport boat
Steven that sounds like a halyard may be catching the furler at the top of the
mast, and getting wrapped up in the sail...;
Richard
1987 33-II; Ohio River, Mile 584
Richard N. Bush Law Offices
235 South Fifth Street, Fourth Floor
Louisville, Kentucky 40202
502-584-7255
-Original Mess
It could be as simple as too much tension on the forestay. If you try
and furl with your backstay cranked tight, that can make any furler bind.
Bill Bina
On 7/15/2013 9:08 AM, Stevan Plavsa wrote:
Hi All.
It seems the drum on my ultrafurl is sticking. I know that other C&Cs
used this furlin
Hi All.
It seems the drum on my ultrafurl is sticking. I know that other C&Cs used
this furling gear so I was hoping for some feedback from other ultrafurl
owners. I dropped the swivel down and it is fine so I'm blaming the drum.
It needs a lot of coaxing to turn and it will turn, then come to a s
Edd
I would love to comment on this one.
Over the past year I look at the interior of my 27. No not C&C but J.
Is 27.5 LOA, 8.5 beam, 3800 disp and has a functional interior with long
comfortable bunks but ridiculously cramped head and sitting not even
stooping headroom. I go from there to th
Based on my experience with cabinetmaking and wood working, and with a lot
of boat projects over the years, here are some comments and suggestions
about obtaining teak and alternative hardwoods for your boat.
You probably do not want to try to source Door Skins for a project on your
boat. The
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