Re: [RBW] Re: Opniel knives

[Matt Beebe]

On Wednesday, August 14, 2013 5:25:00 PM UTC-4, Ron Mc wrote:
>
> Patrick, the most useful knife I've ever handled (own 3 permanently 
> clipped in bags) is the Spyderco Native
>
>
I have a small spyderco (don't remember what the model is called) that I've 
carried in my jeans watch pocket for I don't know how long.It's 
stainless 'VG-10' steel, but sharpens easily and holds an edge well.
What I really like about it is the hole on the blade that allows you to 
open with one hand-  more often than not I am holding the thing I want to 
use the knife on in my other hand.

Matt

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[RBW] Re: What do Rivendell riders wear for cycling shorts for long rides?

[Matt Beebe]

I wear regular underwear and whatever pants for anything under 50 miles, 
and will think it through a bit more if I'm going for 80+.   I did a 
3.5 month tour using MUSA shorts (and a pair of pants too) and a mix of 
wool boxer briefs and regular cotton boxer briefs. I was averaging 70 
miles a day, with my longest days in the 135 mile range, and was using a 
Brooks B17 saddle, fairly broken-in.I'd use the exact same equipment if 
I were to do it again.

Matt



On Tuesday, August 13, 2013 11:26:54 PM UTC-4, Michael wrote:
>
> What do you Rivendell riders wear on long rides? Centuries, metric or 
> English, etc.
>  
> I know there is a general anti-padded-shorts vibe that emanates from 
> Walnut Creek.
>  
> But I just cannot go more than 20 miles in regular pants without 
> sweat-soaked undergarments just squeaking away against my flesh like a 
> squeegee. Ouch!!
>  
> I use LBS padded shorts for long rides but looking for something with a 
> thicker pad and maybe bigger in the back for my upright Alba riding 
> posture, since that puts more sitting area on the rear of the rear, so to 
> speak.
>  
> Thanks for any advice.
>

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[RBW] Re: 56 cm Heron PBH

[Matt Beebe]

Your best bet is to call Rivendell for advice, I'm sure they will help you 
out and they know their stuff cold.

Matt



On Saturday, August 17, 2013 1:57:54 PM UTC-4, Dick Combs wrote:
>
> Anybody tell me the recommended PBH range for a 56 cm Heron
> Thanks

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[RBW] Re: 56 cm Heron PBH

[Matt Beebe]

My guess would be somewhere in the neighborhood of 81-83cm though.But 
call Riv.

Matt


On Saturday, August 17, 2013 1:57:54 PM UTC-4, Dick Combs wrote:
>
> Anybody tell me the recommended PBH range for a 56 cm Heron
> Thanks

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Re: [RBW] Re: Opniel knives

[Matt Beebe]

On Monday, August 19, 2013 4:03:58 PM UTC-4, Rex Kerr wrote:
>
> On Wed, Aug 14, 2013 at 2:18 PM, Deacon Patrick 
> > wrote:
>
>> Carbon blades are the only reason to get Opinel knives that I can see, 
>> other than good value for a stainless blade. Carbon holds a sharper edge 
>> than stainless, but requires actual care (oiling as needed) to prevent rust.
>>
>
> Only reason?  I bought my Opinel (discovered them a few years ago) because 
> they are SHARP, and easy to keep that way, cheap, good blade lock, 
> lightweight, don't look like a military grade weapon (what's with knives 
> these days?), and classic.  
>
>
>
Tell it brother.   I too despise that cheesy faux military/weapon look most 
pocket knives seem to have taken on in the past decade or so.   I blame it 
on movies and TV.   I keep an Opinel folding saw in my camping panniers and 
it's the bees knees.   That or a pocket chainsaw and a fixed blade can do 
serious work and keep you warm (only use them on dead wood of course).   
I'd be buying a hatchet from Riv right now but already have one which is 
more than enough (they're not like bikes :)

When it comes to little folding knives I do like my little spyderco 
knife.   It's only about as big as my thumb, fits in my jeans coin pocket 
and opens with one hand.It seems at least half the knives spyderco 
makes are of the dumb weapon variety, but the little one I have is fairly 
innocuous and frequently useful.


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[RBW] Re: That Betty Foy is some bicycle!

[Matt Beebe]

On Monday, August 19, 2013 3:04:27 PM UTC-4, Cecily Walker wrote:
>
> One of the things I'm discovering with each passing day is how my 
> previously held ideas about what made a bicycle comfortable are being 
> smashed to bits by the Betty Foy. 
>

This pretty much sums up the Rivendell experience.I have struggled for 
a long time with fit and position on bicycles, despite riding from a very 
young age.   The design and fit of Rivendells turned riding into something 
entirely new for me.

It's great to hear you are adjusting to the Betty Foy's character after 
riding Dutch bikes for so long.I believe it only gets better from here.

Matt
 

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[RBW] Re: Happy New Bike Day (Orange Quickbeam Edition)!

[Matt Beebe]

Nice score. I feel the same way as Pudge; the QB is a special bike, one 
you just keep going back to.



On Thursday, August 22, 2013 10:43:24 AM UTC-4, cyclot...@gmail.com wrote:
>
> I wasn't planning on getting a new bike, but sometimes these things 
> just can't be avoided! When a 60cm Quickbeam recently was offered for 
> sale here by Collin, I pretty much had to make it work out! And 
> everything came together in an amazing fashion! I took a day or so 
> dithering about it, but was able to still buy it. For transportation 
> from Walnut Creek to Redlands, I was able to press Jim W into service. 
> He was coming back down south after spending several weeks in the Bay 
> Area and was happy to help a guy out! The good people at Rivendell 
> even lent some storage space to the cause and let Collin drop it off 
> there until Jim could get by to pick it up. A lot of good people 
> helped make this happen, and I'm ecstatic to have a new bike! 
>
> And the first (short) ride! 
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/cyclotourist/9568141294/in/photostream/ 
>
> Happy New Bike Day! 
> -- 
> Cheers, 
> David 
>
> "it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride." - Seth Vidal 
>

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[RBW] Re: Recommendations for Saddle Bag--mostly for books

[Matt Beebe]

I'd recommend the Saddlesack Large for books.I own both the Carradice 
Nelson and Camper and they are great bags, but for books, the Saddlesack 
bags with a rack are the way to go hands down.They so easy to use and 
so spacious, they make carrying stuff on your bike a no-brainer.

Matt


On Thursday, August 22, 2013 9:40:35 PM UTC-4, Tom Goodmann wrote:
>
> With a school year just about underway, I'm late to ask; looking for 
> recommendations for a saddle bag--likely more flat than square--for 
> ferrying books & a notebook pc on a Sam or a Heron Touring.  Each has a 
> rear rack too, so panniers are another way to go, of course, but my first 
> thought is for a saddle bag-style sort of brief case (behind a B-17, yup). 
> Suggestions appreciated.  --Tom in Miami
>

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[RBW] Re: Custom Appaloosa Update

[Matt Beebe]

Dual diagatubes?! This bike is going to be amazing and truly unique. 
 Parts lists for the build sounds cool.  I love those IRD needle 
bearing headsets-   best ever IMHO, and the Phil Rivy hub will be sweet.
Also regarding the 40/26 crank, I have one and after exhaustively 
cataloging/obsessing about the range of ratios I rode it, and it works 
great.  You might shift up front a bit more than with a 36 or 38t 
bigger ring (or 28t small)-   BUT for me, commuting on a quickbeam 30 miles 
R/T fairly regularly (and loving it)... being able to shift while 
pedaling(!) is planted firmly in perspective, and furthermore, I just got 
much better at front shifts on the geared bikes.

Matt


On Thursday, August 22, 2013 5:08:36 PM UTC-4, Liesl wrote:
>
> Here's some fun news!  I talked with Mark at Riv and there seems to be a 
> groovy design solution to having a really small frame (in the 50cm range) 
> with a diagatube!  When last you tuned in (if you tuned in at all), you 
> might recall (or might not) that Grant said that getting a diagatube, lugs, 
> and clearance for 55mm tires and fenders was like trying to get 4 balls 
> into 3 and a half holes.  Here's how it's likely to go:  26" wheels 
> (already knew that) and—
>
> —*double* small diameter old school Mixte-style diagatubes that are 
> mitered and fillet brazed somewhere about the head tube. Where it's brazed 
> to will be Mark Nobilette's choice; could be to the top tube, could be to 
> the head tube, could be to the bottom tube.  Mark was quite excited as he 
> described it.  It would be truly totally custom.
>
> Current thinking on the build kit is as follows:
> 58 Boscos, Meisha's Cork (normal), Paul Thumbies + Shimano BarEnds, brake 
> levers to be determined, Tange/IRD NeedL BlastR Roller Drive Headset
>
> Phil "Rivy" Hub - Rivy 32h Rear Hub, New SON 28 32H Front Hub, 26" 
> Aeroheat Rims, Schwalbe Big Bens
>
> Sugino XD2 wide/low double Crank 40t x 26t, VP Thin Gripster pedals
>
> Brooks Champion Flyer select, Paul Tall and Handsome seatpost
>
> As always, your thoughts are welcomed!
>

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[RBW] Re: Recommendations for Saddle Bag--mostly for books

[Matt Beebe]

One other point about the large saddlesack:   if you use it with a QR 
saddlebag mount, it is super easy to take on and off the bike.   In fact, 
I'd put it up against anything in terms of ease of attachment/removal.



On Friday, August 23, 2013 9:55:20 AM UTC-4, WETH wrote:
>
> Tom, 
> Short Answer: another vote for a large Saddlesack. 
> Long Answer: be sure to think through your commuting process.  From 
> personal experience, I transitioned from panniers to a large Saxdlesack 
> because of my personal routine and preferences.  I commute several days a 
> week by bike and the other days by car or bus.  When I started bike 
> commuting, I liked panniers for the ease of attaching and removal from 
> bike.  Over time, though, I found transferring things from panniers to a 
> briefcase or a backpack tedious on the days I drove or took the bus.  (i am 
> sure there are panniers that convert to backpacks or briefcases to allow 
> easier transport off the bike.) The large Saddlesack is spacious enough to 
> hold my briefcase and/or backpack.  This keeps life more simple and 
> minimizes the likelihood I forget something in a bag at home.  The downside 
> to the large Saddlesack is that it is not as easy to switch it between 
> bikes as with a set of panniers.  Finally, a more permanently attach 
> Saddlesack might bring unwanted attention to your bike depending on where 
> you have to secure it at school. 
> All the best, 
> Erl

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[RBW] Re: Recommendations for Saddle Bag--mostly for books

[Matt Beebe]

I use a QR with the large saddlesack, but do not secure the bag to the 
rack.It just floats on top, never had any problems even riding off road 
this way.



On Friday, August 23, 2013 4:52:52 PM UTC-4, Jim wrote:
>
> Another vote for saddlesacks.  I have a large, in which I can stuff books, 
> papers and a laptop for commuting between home, work and a course I'm 
> teaching at the university.  
>  
> One question:  Does anyone use the quick release with a large saddlesack?  
> If so, do you have a good method for quick release of the sack from the 
> rack?  I'm thinking to just run a strap through it and the rack, but a bit 
> of a fiddle to get on and off.  Currently I have it zip tied to the rack.
> TIA
>  
> Jim in Boulder
>
> On Thursday, August 22, 2013 7:40:35 PM UTC-6, Tom Goodmann wrote:
>
>> With a school year just about underway, I'm late to ask; looking for 
>> recommendations for a saddle bag--likely more flat than square--for 
>> ferrying books & a notebook pc on a Sam or a Heron Touring.  Each has a 
>> rear rack too, so panniers are another way to go, of course, but my first 
>> thought is for a saddle bag-style sort of brief case (behind a B-17, yup). 
>> Suggestions appreciated.  --Tom in Miami
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Stolen SimpleOne (Sacramento)

[Matt Beebe]

Wow! really good to hear you got it back.  I agree with Ray though, if 
the pawn shop buys stolen goods, that's their problem, not yours.   

Matt



On Saturday, August 31, 2013 2:54:56 PM UTC-4, David wrote:
>
> Found!  Thirty days later.  Pawn shop in town had it listed on CL.  Very 
> kind RBW Group member alerted me to it.  It's unharmed.  We picked it up 
> today.  Thief sold it to the pawn shop for $60 (which I had to pay), and 
> the pawn shop had it for sale for $600.  Thanks for all your kind thoughts.
>
> On Tuesday, August 13, 2013 1:30:39 PM UTC-7, David wrote:
>>
>> These recovery attempts are a long-shot, but I have to try.  My SimpleOne 
>> was stolen a couple weeks ago.  Police report filed within 24 hours.  No 
>> luck yet.  Thanks for your time.
>>  
>> http://sacramento.craigslist.org/bik/3999794563.html
>>
>>
>> 
>>  
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Sam creaking today with new set up. Any advice?

[Matt Beebe]

Not sure if this will help, but I've had stem creakage before that went 
away after putting some anti-seize compound (not quite grease, but a solid 
paste with copper or nickel added) on the wedge and submerged portion of 
the stem.Never had a problem since.

Matt


On Saturday, August 31, 2013 9:51:23 PM UTC-4, Michael wrote:
>
> *What Happened:*
> After about 10 miles riding, something on bars/stem started creaking when 
> I put weight on the right ramp, hood, and drops. Left side doesn't creak if 
> I put weight on it.
> I tightened the hood, and stem bar clamp. Stem bolt is tight. Bars still 
> squeak but not as bad.
> ** 
> *Info history:*
> I put my new, from RBW, 41 Noodles on it and set it up as close as I could 
> to my dependable Giant bike set up.
> Bars 1.3cm below saddle height. Feels great. Nitto Deluxe stem 190 rise. 
> Only about 3mm's left before stem extension bottoms out by hitting the 
> headset lock nut. So I think stem wedge should be above the butt of the 
> head tube if there is one. I have used this setup at higher bar levels and 
> no creaking. Just today after setting it 1.3cm below saddle. At 1cm below 
> saddle, no creaks either.
>  
> BTW, I *lightly* greased the stem below min insertion point and 
> wedge when installing.
>  
> *Ideas?:*
> Maybe needs grease on bar cuff at stem clamp?
> More grease on stem and wedge?
> Maybe the stem being all the way down in steer tube is creaking because so 
> much of it is contacting the inside of steer tube now and the whole rise 
> shaft need grease?
>  
> New 41 Noodle from RBW, so I don't think the bar would have a crack in it 
> that creaks. The bars are flexy (both sides) and I can see them flex when I 
> push hard on the drops. I did this with bike stopped to try to make it 
> creak to see where the noise is coming from.
>  
> *Any other ideas come to mind?*
>  
>  
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Albastaches, how're you liking them?

[Matt Beebe]

I'm with CT on this one, moustache bars work great for me on 
offroad/singletrack descents.But then so do 42cm Noodles.I don't 
get along well with wide bars, and I've tried.In fact, even the 
old-style M-bars I have are a touch wide, but they're still doable and I 
like them. I have a tiny bird-shaped body though, no shoulders to speak 
of.



On Monday, September 2, 2013 1:13:54 PM UTC-4, cyclot...@gmail.com wrote:
>
> Interesting... yes, much closer together than on a wide MTB bar. I 
> ride in singletrack all the time, and not been a problem, but YMMV on 
> that :-) 
>
> On 9/2/13, Mike > wrote: 
> > 
> > 
> > On Monday, September 2, 2013 9:53:41 AM UTC-7, cyclot...@gmail.comwrote: 
> >> 
> >> I'm not understanding the problem with descents on M-bars (new or 
> >> old). 
> >> 
> > 
> > Hands are too close together. I came bombing down Germantown Rd with 
> them 
> > on my Rambouillet a few years back and felt like I had lousy control of 
> the 
> > 
> > bike going into and through twisty and tight corners at speed. I was 
> sorta 
> > hoping the wider width of the new bars would resolve that issue. 
> > 
> > --mike 
> > 
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>
>
> -- 
> Cheers, 
> David 
>
> "it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride." - Seth Vidal 
>

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[RBW] FS: Albatross bar setup: Miesha's Cork grips, Nitto 11cm Deluxe stem, Tektro MTB levers, Silver shifters, cable housings. $150

[Matt Beebe]

Hi All

I have a set of albatrosses with levers and cork grips installed (and 
shellac'd, by Rivendell), mounted on an 11cm stem, including silver B/E 
shifters, cable housings.Nearly new.Offering here for $150 shipped 
CONUS.

Thanks,
Matt

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[RBW] Re: FS: Albatross bar setup: Miesha's Cork grips, Nitto 11cm Deluxe stem, Tektro MTB levers, Silver shifters, cable housings. $150

[Matt Beebe]

Sold.Thanks everyone.



On Sunday, September 8, 2013 1:29:42 PM UTC-4, Matt Beebe wrote:
>
> Hi All
>
> I have a set of albatrosses with levers and cork grips installed (and 
> shellac'd, by Rivendell), mounted on an 11cm stem, including silver B/E 
> shifters, cable housings.Nearly new.Offering here for $150 shipped 
> CONUS.
>
> Thanks,
> Matt
>

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[RBW] Re: FS: Albatross bar setup: Miesha's Cork grips, Nitto 11cm Deluxe stem, Tektro MTB levers, Silver shifters, cable housings. $150

[Matt Beebe]

Hi Jim,

I liked the Albatrosses a lot, but switched to 42cm Noodles a while ago.   
The Albas are great bars, very comfortable and versatile.I just prefer 
Noodles or M-bars for the kind of riding I am doing.

Matt



On Wednesday, September 11, 2013 8:02:49 PM UTC-4, Jim wrote:
>
> Matt, I was thinking of going to albatross bars from noodles. Can you 
> give your experience with the alba's and what you are changing to? 
>  JIM D.  MASSACHUSETTS
>
> On Sunday, September 8, 2013 1:29:42 PM UTC-4, Matt Beebe wrote:
>>
>> Hi All
>>
>> I have a set of albatrosses with levers and cork grips installed (and 
>> shellac'd, by Rivendell), mounted on an 11cm stem, including silver B/E 
>> shifters, cable housings.Nearly new.Offering here for $150 shipped 
>> CONUS.
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Matt
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Low Normal Derailers

[Matt Beebe]

I haven't had much trouble switching to low-normal from regular sequence 
derailleurs.I even have both types on different bikes and switch 
between them frequently.After the first couple of shifts, I no longer 
have to think about it. Bikes are otherwise set up differently though 
so maybe that has something to do with it.

Matt


On Thursday, September 12, 2013 3:51:10 AM UTC-4, bobish wrote:
>
> Iirc, I remember reading about these at various times in my cycling life. 
> There were previous incarnations to this latest (now discontinued) model, 
> no? Anyway, this would be like changing the gear shift sequence on a 
> standard transmission car. Any improvement would be more than negated for 
> me by having to "think" about shifting. Ymmv. 
>
> • Perry

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[RBW] Re: A weekend in the Methow Valley

[Matt Beebe]

Wow, that scenery is gorgeous, and nice report.Also, I consider having 
to get off and walk your bike periodically to be a strong indicator that 
you are doing things right  :)

 

On Monday, September 23, 2013 2:33:50 AM UTC-4, Cecily Walker wrote:
>
> A group of 7 friends and I took a long weekend trip to the Methow Valley 
> in the North Cascades of Washington. Long before I got a Betty Foy, I 
> dreamed of riding single track, but couldn't find much locally that wasn't 
> very technical trails that required mountain bikes. My friend Kay, a 
> seasoned mountain bike enthusiast, ensured me that the blue trails in the 
> Okanogan National Forest would be a piece of cake for the Betty Foy, and 
> she was right. 
>
> Here's a map of where we rode: 
> http://www.mvsta.com//images/sunmap_summer.jpg
>
> It was my first time doing riding of this sort, and it took some getting 
> used to. The trail was a mixture of large loose gravel, sandy soil, mud, 
> and pine needles over hard packed dirt. To make matters worse, the 
> osteoarthritis in my right knee really flared up a couple of days before 
> the trip, and unfortunately the cortisone shot I had the day before my 
> departure didn't do much for the inflammation. I was undaunted though.
>
> Friday morning dawned cool with cerulean blue skies with nary a cloud in 
> sight. The layer of cool air was fairly shallow, because by the time we got 
> our bikes unloaded from the car, things had warmed up enough for me to go 
> on without a jacket. 
>
> We combined the Beaver Pond and Rodeo trails to do a loop around Beaver 
> Lake. I had some trouble finding the right gear to match the ground 
> conditions at first, but after about the first 20 minutes I seemed to get 
> the hang of things. The only times I had to get off my bike were to push up 
> a couple of short, steep inclines I didn't change gears quickly enough for, 
> and to scale down a "rock garden" incline that Kay thought might be a bit 
> much for a novice rider on Soma New Express tires. 
>
> Because I got out to the country and put the Betty Foy through her paces, 
> I feel as if I'm finally a part of the Rivendell club. I'm sad to say that 
> the summer single track season is rapidly coming to a close, but there's 
> always next year!
>
> Here are a few photos from the weekend. We stopped a lot on the way to 
> Winthrop, and were particularly taken with the views from Washington Pass. 
> There's a photo of me riding singletrack in the set from the weekend: 
>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/cecily/sets/72157635790163246/
>

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[RBW] Randonnerding totally loaded in Vermont and New Hampshire

[Matt Beebe]

Hi All, just thought I'd share some photos from a recent ride to Vermont. 
   I went to the Northeast Kingdom to visit friends not far from the 
Canadian border, and took a nice route to get there and back.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/43029278@N07/sets/72157635839369194/

There are many, many miles of dirt road and snowmobile/ATV trails on the 
way up there, some smooth, some rocky, but all fun.   Even the paved roads 
are nice.   The scenery was gorgeous, and the leaves had begun to change 
already, especially north of White River Junction.The small towns and 
nice people in Vermont are the best.

The bike handled perfectly, and the only thing that rattled loose was my 
mudflap(!) toward the end of the trip on a particularly bumpy section. 
You may notice I only have one water bottle, but that's because I prefer 
dromedary bags for carrying most of my water-  the bottle is just a more 
convenient vessel to drink from :)  

This was my first fully loaded ride using moustache bars and the Nitto 
Large back rack, which I bought from Riv a while ago-I had been using a 
Tubus Cargo prior to this.I found the M-bars to be fantastic for 
all-day riding.  I had used them before for ~2 hour rides on my QB and 
reckoned they'd be good for touring, but have always just stuck with 
Noodles since I know they work well for me. This ride convinced me that 
M-bars give plenty of hand positions for comfort and work well on bumpy 
terrain when riding somewhat heavily loaded.   You do need a short stem 
with M-bars though.

My only (minor) complaint about the Nitto rack is that platform is much too 
far back behind the rear axle, and it is difficult to get weight far enough 
forward with it due to the tombstone being so far back.Sliding the 
mounting points forward at the top results in the rack tilting forward at 
an odd angle.   This is strange to me since I ride relatively large frames, 
and most racks (especially non-adjustable ones) end up tilting backward 
because of the steep angle of my seat-stays.  The Nitto seems more geared 
toward frames with ultra-short chainstays, or super-tall frames.BUT it 
is still a ridiculously nice rack though, and I have like 5 inches of heel 
clearance with it (size 10's) so if you have large feet/ heel clearance 
issues with your rack it would be a good option.I may go back to the 
Tubus for future loaded riding, as it seems ideally suited to frames in my 
size in terms of where the platform is located.I also really like an 
R14 with the large saddlesack when not riding with panniers.

Anyway hope you enjoy the photos.

Matt

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[RBW] Re: Randonnerding totally loaded in Vermont and New Hampshire

[Matt Beebe]

Thanks Patrick, and LOL yes the Coronary trail gave me a chuckle.   There 
was also a "Coronary By-pass" trail but I didn't get a photo of that 
sign.   That was in the Kingdom Trails near Burke VT. 



On Tuesday, September 24, 2013 10:08:00 AM UTC-4, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> Wow! Fantastic photos of a grand backroads tour. I presume you are playing 
> the piano you picked up? I particularly loved the "Coronary" trail.
>
> WIth abandon,
> Patrick
>
> On Tuesday, September 24, 2013 8:02:17 AM UTC-6, Matt Beebe wrote:
>>
>> Hi All, just thought I'd share some photos from a recent ride to Vermont. 
>>I went to the Northeast Kingdom to visit friends not far from the 
>> Canadian border, and took a nice route to get there and back.
>>
>> http://www.flickr.com/photos/43029278@N07/sets/72157635839369194/
>>
>> There are many, many miles of dirt road and snowmobile/ATV trails on the 
>> way up there, some smooth, some rocky, but all fun.   Even the paved roads 
>> are nice.   The scenery was gorgeous, and the leaves had begun to change 
>> already, especially north of White River Junction.The small towns and 
>> nice people in Vermont are the best.
>>
>> The bike handled perfectly, and the only thing that rattled loose was my 
>> mudflap(!) toward the end of the trip on a particularly bumpy section. 
>> You may notice I only have one water bottle, but that's because I prefer 
>> dromedary bags for carrying most of my water-  the bottle is just a more 
>> convenient vessel to drink from :)  
>>
>> This was my first fully loaded ride using moustache bars and the Nitto 
>> Large back rack, which I bought from Riv a while ago-I had been using a 
>> Tubus Cargo prior to this.I found the M-bars to be fantastic for 
>> all-day riding.  I had used them before for ~2 hour rides on my QB and 
>> reckoned they'd be good for touring, but have always just stuck with 
>> Noodles since I know they work well for me. This ride convinced me that 
>> M-bars give plenty of hand positions for comfort and work well on bumpy 
>> terrain when riding somewhat heavily loaded.   You do need a short stem 
>> with M-bars though.
>>
>> My only (minor) complaint about the Nitto rack is that platform is much 
>> too far back behind the rear axle, and it is difficult to get weight far 
>> enough forward with it due to the tombstone being so far back.Sliding 
>> the mounting points forward at the top results in the rack tilting forward 
>> at an odd angle.   This is strange to me since I ride relatively large 
>> frames, and most racks (especially non-adjustable ones) end up tilting 
>> backward because of the steep angle of my seat-stays.  The Nitto seems more 
>> geared toward frames with ultra-short chainstays, or super-tall frames.
>> BUT it is still a ridiculously nice rack though, and I have like 5 inches 
>> of heel clearance with it (size 10's) so if you have large feet/ heel 
>> clearance issues with your rack it would be a good option.I may go back 
>> to the Tubus for future loaded riding, as it seems ideally suited to frames 
>> in my size in terms of where the platform is located.I also really like 
>> an R14 with the large saddlesack when not riding with panniers.
>>
>> Anyway hope you enjoy the photos.
>>
>> Matt
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Randonnerding totally loaded in Vermont and New Hampshire

[Matt Beebe]

Thanks everyone.Hey Elton, this bike is a lot like the Waterford, and 
rides a lot like it which is a good thing, but the Riv has a shorter top 
tube and room for slightly fatter tires, and a few other minor geometry 
differences.   The TT on the Waterford has me a bit stretched out for 
really long days (it's 60cm long).   Still sees a lot of action though, 
last trip on it being to southern PA.
 
Matt


On Thursday, September 26, 2013 7:18:49 AM UTC-4, Elton Pope-Lance wrote:
>
> Hey Matt,
>
> Great shots and adventure.
> Did you prefer the Atlantis to the custom Waterford you rode cross country?
>
> Elton Pope-Lance
> Natick, MA
>
>
>  
> On Sep 25, 2013, at 8:46 AM, Rusty Click wrote:
>
> Hi Matt,
> What a great set of pictures!  My family and I spent 2 weeks in the 
> Newport area a couple of years back, and loved the cycling and kayaking.
> I've always wanted to do a bike tour in the area, and now you've got that 
> itch going again!
>
> Rusty Click
> Pittsburgh, PA
>
> On Tuesday, September 24, 2013 10:02:17 AM UTC-4, Matt Beebe wrote:
>>
>> Hi All, just thought I'd share some photos from a recent ride to Vermont. 
>>I went to the Northeast Kingdom to visit friends not far from the 
>> Canadian border, and took a nice route to get there and back.
>>
>> http://www.flickr.com/photos/43029278@N07/sets/72157635839369194/
>>
>> There are many, many miles of dirt road and snowmobile/ATV trails on the 
>> way up there, some smooth, some rocky, but all fun.   Even the paved roads 
>> are nice.   The scenery was gorgeous, and the leaves had begun to change 
>> already, especially north of White River Junction.The small towns and 
>> nice people in Vermont are the best.
>>
>> The bike handled perfectly, and the only thing that rattled loose was my 
>> mudflap(!) toward the end of the trip on a particularly bumpy section. 
>> You may notice I only have one water bottle, but that's because I prefer 
>> dromedary bags for carrying most of my water-  the bottle is just a more 
>> convenient vessel to drink from :)  
>>
>> This was my first fully loaded ride using moustache bars and the Nitto 
>> Large back rack, which I bought from Riv a while ago-I had been using a 
>> Tubus Cargo prior to this.I found the M-bars to be fantastic for 
>> all-day riding.  I had used them before for ~2 hour rides on my QB and 
>> reckoned they'd be good for touring, but have always just stuck with 
>> Noodles since I know they work well for me. This ride convinced me that 
>> M-bars give plenty of hand positions for comfort and work well on bumpy 
>> terrain when riding somewhat heavily loaded.   You do need a short stem 
>> with M-bars though.
>>
>> My only (minor) complaint about the Nitto rack is that platform is much 
>> too far back behind the rear axle, and it is difficult to get weight far 
>> enough forward with it due to the tombstone being so far back.Sliding 
>> the mounting points forward at the top results in the rack tilting forward 
>> at an odd angle.   This is strange to me since I ride relatively large 
>> frames, and most racks (especially non-adjustable ones) end up tilting 
>> backward because of the steep angle of my seat-stays.  The Nitto seems more 
>> geared toward frames with ultra-short chainstays, or super-tall frames.
>> BUT it is still a ridiculously nice rack though, and I have like 5 inches 
>> of heel clearance with it (size 10's) so if you have large feet/ heel 
>> clearance issues with your rack it would be a good option.I may go back 
>> to the Tubus for future loaded riding, as it seems ideally suited to frames 
>> in my size in terms of where the platform is located.I also really like 
>> an R14 with the large saddlesack when not riding with panniers.
>>
>> Anyway hope you enjoy the photos.
>>
>> Matt
>>
>
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[RBW] Re: Randonnerding totally loaded in Vermont and New Hampshire

[Matt Beebe]

Bobby, if you end up planning another trip to NH and VT next year count me 
in.


On Thursday, September 26, 2013 3:42:31 PM UTC-4, Montclair BobbyB wrote:
>
> Actually,Norm I had a great ride to the Kingdom planned for late 
> September/early October with a good friend from Sonoma, but he couldn't 
> make it back East. We even planned a stop at the Hill Farmstead in 
> Greensboro Bend, where Shaun Hill is brewing up some world-class beers, *(and 
> we all know beer and bike culture go together so well)*.  I also planned 
> to take advantage of the great snowmobile trails; it's such a gorgeous 
> area, definitely future Riv Rally territory... For now I'll have to 
> experience it (vicariously) through Matt B. Thanks for sharing the great 
> photos, Matt!!!
>
> It hasn't been a total bust, however... I did make it up to Grand Isle 2 
> weeks ago, where I enjoyed some great riding and had the pleasure of 
> attending a beer event at my brother's house, co-hosted by local beer hero 
> Sean Lawson (Lawson's Finest Liquids)... *a most righteous brewer is he...
> *
>
> Peace,
> Bobby 
>
> On Wednesday, September 25, 2013 2:38:27 PM UTC-4, Norman R wrote:
>>
>> Thanks for the report and photos.  I rode in that area for about a week 
>> 20-25 years ago and it was/is a perfect bike riding location.  Perhaps 
>> Montclair Bobby B. or someone else more local could think about putting 
>> together a Riv.RideEast?
>> Norman
>>
>> On Tuesday, September 24, 2013 10:02:17 AM UTC-4, Matt Beebe wrote:
>>>
>>> Hi All, just thought I'd share some photos from a recent ride to 
>>> Vermont.I went to the Northeast Kingdom to visit friends not far from 
>>> the Canadian border, and took a nice route to get there and back.
>>>
>>> http://www.flickr.com/photos/43029278@N07/sets/72157635839369194/
>>>
>>> There are many, many miles of dirt road and snowmobile/ATV trails on the 
>>> way up there, some smooth, some rocky, but all fun.   Even the paved roads 
>>> are nice.   The scenery was gorgeous, and the leaves had begun to change 
>>> already, especially north of White River Junction.The small towns and 
>>> nice people in Vermont are the best.
>>>
>>> The bike handled perfectly, and the only thing that rattled loose was my 
>>> mudflap(!) toward the end of the trip on a particularly bumpy section. 
>>> You may notice I only have one water bottle, but that's because I prefer 
>>> dromedary bags for carrying most of my water-  the bottle is just a more 
>>> convenient vessel to drink from :)  
>>>
>>> This was my first fully loaded ride using moustache bars and the Nitto 
>>> Large back rack, which I bought from Riv a while ago-I had been using a 
>>> Tubus Cargo prior to this.I found the M-bars to be fantastic for 
>>> all-day riding.  I had used them before for ~2 hour rides on my QB and 
>>> reckoned they'd be good for touring, but have always just stuck with 
>>> Noodles since I know they work well for me. This ride convinced me that 
>>> M-bars give plenty of hand positions for comfort and work well on bumpy 
>>> terrain when riding somewhat heavily loaded.   You do need a short stem 
>>> with M-bars though.
>>>
>>> My only (minor) complaint about the Nitto rack is that platform is much 
>>> too far back behind the rear axle, and it is difficult to get weight far 
>>> enough forward with it due to the tombstone being so far back.Sliding 
>>> the mounting points forward at the top results in the rack tilting forward 
>>> at an odd angle.   This is strange to me since I ride relatively large 
>>> frames, and most racks (especially non-adjustable ones) end up tilting 
>>> backward because of the steep angle of my seat-stays.  The Nitto seems more 
>>> geared toward frames with ultra-short chainstays, or super-tall frames.
>>> BUT it is still a ridiculously nice rack though, and I have like 5 inches 
>>> of heel clearance with it (size 10's) so if you have large feet/ heel 
>>> clearance issues with your rack it would be a good option.I may go back 
>>> to the Tubus for future loaded riding, as it seems ideally suited to frames 
>>> in my size in terms of where the platform is located.I also really like 
>>> an R14 with the large saddlesack when not riding with panniers.
>>>
>>> Anyway hope you enjoy the photos.
>>>
>>> Matt
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Pikes Peak S30O

[Matt Beebe]

Awesome pictures Patrick.   Your backyard/riding territory is gold long 
after the rush.


On Saturday, September 28, 2013 9:36:45 AM UTC-4, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> Inexplicably, Steve joined me for a second ride, this one a sub-30 
> hour-outing, with more LCG ridge climbing, and a wee bit of snow. We went 
> in at the end of Craig's Road, popped over a ridge, made camp, and went joy 
> riding for the rest of the day and a good chunk of the next before packing 
> up and heading out.
>
> There is only chaos to the order of the photos (what I get for trying to 
> combine his and mine).
>
> Steve is a recovering weekend warrior style rider who is discovering the 
> virtue of using the LCG (lowest common gear) with both honor and joy. At 
> the end of our first day of riding he proclaimed "That was the best and 
> longest day of mountain biking I've ever had!" Uh oh. Watch out, trails!
>
> After all the creek crossings, my left platform pedal was creaking again. 
> H. Those bearings just aren't very sealed. Good thing the VP Vice are 
> working out great!
>
> It was a grand trip and great to have a friend along (all my previous 
> bikepacking adventures have been either solo or with some or all of my 
> family). I did let him sleep in till 7:30 though, as it is quieter when 
> he's sleeping. We introverts need our quiet time. Grin.
>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/32311885@N07/sets/72157635975329866/
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>
> *www.MindYourHeadCoop.org*
> *www.OurHolyConception.org*
>  
>

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[RBW] Re: '80s Peugeot built for off road riding, limited Riv content

[Matt Beebe]

Now that is a cool build.Drivetrain is particularly interesting. 
Looks like a big BMX bike, i.e. tons of fun.



On Sunday, September 29, 2013 6:32:21 AM UTC-4, Tom Harrop wrote:
>
> Hi list,
>
> Firstly an apology for the limited Rivendell content, but maybe some 
> members will be interested anyway.
>
> I've been thinking about getting another Riv to use as a specific MTB / 
> off-road bike. I think a 64 cm Sam would be just about big enough for me 
> and give me enough tyre clearance for the sort of riding I want to 
> do—nothing outrageous, just unpaved roads and singletrack. I contacted Riv 
> and was told that maybe a 64 cm Sam would be a little too small, and if I 
> wanted a specific off-road machine I should think about a second 68 cm 
> Bombadil. That's a little out of my price range for the foreseeable 
> future... (end of Riv content).
>
> I coincidentally found a 66 cm Peugeot frame for sale locally. When I got 
> it home I was surprised to find it had room for 40 mm tyres, so I decided 
> to build it up as a pseudo-MTB to test my Sam Hillborne theory. From my 
> research it's an early '80s PX-8, which was an entry-level touring bike—no 
> fancy tubeset or anything. I think the head and seat angles are 71° or 
> thereabouts and it has long-ish chainstays so it's not too unlike a Sam.
>
> I used a dirt-drop stem to get the bars nice 'n' high, which worked out 
> well for me because I prefer a short reach. Other than that it didn't turn 
> out to be a very Riv-ish build. I had planned a 1×7 drivetrain but because 
> of a quirk of the frame, using a derailer would have cost me a lot of tyre 
> clearance at the chainstay, so I got a Nexus IGH instead.
>
> I'm quite pleased with the Clément MSO tyres (although I'm no 
> connoisseur). They roll nicely on pavement, maybe even as nicely as the 60 
> mm Big Apples on my Bombadil, and they have been grippy enough for the mud 
> I've been through. Time will tell if 40 mm tyres are enough for my large 
> self on an off-road bike. I'm planning to take it down to the Black Forest 
> in a week or two for some proper off-road riding, with hills.
>
> Here's a photo or two of the build if anyone's 
> interested
> .
>
> Hope everyone has a nice Sunday.
>
> Tom
> Cologne, Germany
>

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[RBW] Re: BQ on Mark's rack

[Matt Beebe]

On Wednesday, October 2, 2013 9:56:52 PM UTC-4, Brian Campbell wrote:
>
> More pics of the carbon rando bike:
>
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PVy2iKYmqK8
>
>  
Is that Darth Vader behind the camera?   ;)

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[RBW] Re: BQ on Mark's rack

[Matt Beebe]

I agree with previous comments, I would not worry about using the rack on 
your SH. I think some readers (myself included) are almost shocked to 
see negative things written about products in magazines since most mags are 
merely long editorial advertisements, and any verbiage not glowingly 
positive must mean something is terribly wrong.One of the things that 
distinguishes BQ from other cycling publications is its willingness to tell 
the whole story regarding the stuff they review, including any negative 
aspects.Some of these negatives are down to personal opinion, and you 
have to keep that in mind. As far as I know BQ is not out to sell 
advertising since it is paid for by its readers, and I think that is what 
allows it to be interesting. 

Matt


On Tuesday, October 1, 2013 10:38:17 PM UTC-4, Edwin W wrote:
>
> In the picture of Mark's rack on the Calfee Adventure, the caption reads, 
> "Heavy and flexible Mark's rack seems out of place on such a high end 
> bike." What are the stiff and light options? Custom?
>
> I am thinking of getting a Mark's rack when I can get the cash together. I 
> don't mind the heavy part, but are they overly flexible?
>
> Edwin "He's not heavy, he's my Sam."
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Aspen Gold 3-day trip

[Matt Beebe]

Awesome stuff Patrick.   As others have said, keep up the great photos and 
tactical reconnaissance.

On Thursday, October 3, 2013 8:48:41 PM UTC-4, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> As my wife reminded me upon my return, I've been trying to get out and 
> immerse myself in Colorado's glorious aspen colors for over five years, but 
> my brain or daughters births prevented it. Not this year!
>
> The spot will look familiar to you if you've been gracious to view other 
> trips -- but not these colors. Wow. Visual symphony of color. Glowing gold 
> and orange with brilliant deep blue sky above and deep rich evergreen 
> dappled around and behind with grasses of tan and rust all combine to 
> delight the eye and feed the soul.
>
> I base camped, having a lazy ride in as my family hiked in (more technical 
> than they all like to ride -- yet) to spend the day with me before they 
> departed back home (we don't yet have gear for everyone for the 20˚F 
> nights). They departed in the late afternoon of day one and I settled in 
> for a few days of solitude and brain cushion recovery.
>
> Day 2, I woke at dawn, though the sun would still be 2 hours peaking over 
> the hill (what I get for camping on the west side of a 14,000 peak!). My 
> choices were to be lazy in my warm bag or get up and ride myself warm. I 
> rode. Climbing that next ridge will always warm you up! Once I couldn't 
> ride up the steep trail of Sentinel, I tied off the Hunqapillar and hoofed 
> it the rest of the way to the tundra. Amazing views of the Sangre de Cristo 
> and Collegiante ranges, as well as Lost Creek Wilderness, and South Park. 
> After returning to my bike, I felt good so headed to Horsethief Falls, 
> getting back to camp about 5pm. Standard day's food for dinner of beef 
> jerky, butter, and dried potatoes.
>
> Day three: a leisurely breakdown of camp as I wanted things to thaw/dry 
> before I hauled out extra weight, then up and over the three ridges before 
> the trail ended and I rode Edlow road and Hwy 24 back home.
>
> Amazing trip and my brain has a bit more cushion again! We'll see if the 
> snow allows more overnight trips or not this year. 
>
> My second eldest daughter had a blast taking photos of me riding, and she 
> has a real artistic eye emerging. 
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/32311885@N07/sets/72157636166222556/
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>
> *www.MindYourHeadCoop.org*
> *www.OurHolyConception.org*
>  
>

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[RBW] Re: Recommend wide cotton bartape please...

[Matt Beebe]

greengrips.org

Better than newbaums, IMHO, although it still comes wtih the awful paper 
backing unlike velox.Much wider than both though.

-Matt


On Tuesday, October 15, 2013 5:56:27 PM UTC-4, Michael wrote:
>
> But not Neubaums.
> Need something wider that will more easily wrap over gel padded drops.
>  
> Thanks.
>

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[RBW] Re: Any Rivsters here commute more than 10 miles one-way? Cold weather tips?

[Matt Beebe]

I have bicycle commuted about 16-17 miles one way for the past several 
years.I think you have to find what works for you by trial and error, 
but I've found the following things
work really well for me (for New England winter):  

-Use wool undergarments, next to skin is crucial, merino wool (like 
Rivendell has) is good for this
-Layers on the body, but definitely no 'shell' because you need ventilation
-Wool balaclava and ski-goggles
-Warm, roomy footwear with thick or multiple socks
-Mittens, possibly layered mittens.   This can make braking weird at first, 
depending on your bar setup but you can get used to it, and military 
'trigger mittens' work well
-Studded tires if you live where it snows
-Fenders of course
-saddle bag or basket because you're going to be adding/removing garments 
from time to time


I find that if I'm dressed OK, riding in the winter can be totally 
enjoyable.It gives you a very distinct experience from summer riding 
and has its own rewards.  Anyway good luck and have fun.


Matt


On Monday, November 11, 2013 11:24:33 PM UTC-5, Michael wrote:
>
> Just curious. 
>  
> My commute may get longer soon.
> I had been doing partial commutes of 5.6 miles from a park-n-ride, but 
> would like to work up to the full 16 mile one-way commute one day.
> A change in my family's work schedule (3 of us with two cars) may 
> necessitate this sometimes.
>  
> Any Riv-peeps' cold weather tips? Gets down into the 20's here in the 
> winter.
>

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[RBW] Re: Any Rivsters here commute more than 10 miles one-way? Cold weather tips?

[Matt Beebe]

The thing about wool is, it doesn't develop a smell or start to feel gross 
after wearing it.In fact you can wear it again and again before it 
needs washing, and it doesn't even *feel* dirty even when you've been 
wearing it several days (ask me how I know!).Plus if you wash it gently 
or hand wash it, it seems to last forever.  This isn't the case with 
cotton or synthetic materials, which nevermind smelling, also begin to feel 
gross as soon as the second time you wear it unless you wash it first. 
For this reason I haven't used polyester or even polyblend cotton for 
undergarments in years.   Cotton, maybe but synthetic definitely not.Of 
course your mileage may vary.

Matt

 

On Wednesday, November 13, 2013 11:26:18 AM UTC-5, Michael wrote:
>
> How are synthetic base layers (polyester,etc.)? They can be had for cheap. 
>> But I wonder if they perform as well as wool?
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Quickbeam Sizing

[Matt Beebe]

If you like how the 59cm AHH fits, I think you couldn't go wrong with 
either a 58 or a 60.   

 


On Monday, April 28, 2014 1:14:50 PM UTC-4, Michael Fleischman wrote:
>
> Good Afternoon,
> I was curious if anyone could help me with sizing me up for a QUickbeam. 
>  My PBH is 85.5 and I inseam is 32.  I currently ride a 59cm AHH and it 
> fits me well.  Anyone know what size Quickbeam if need?
> Michael

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[RBW] Re: Rivendell Serial number decoding...what's it mean?

[Matt Beebe]

I think Waterford has always made some of the AHH frames, so it gets even 
more confusing.


On Friday, August 3, 2012 1:32:31 PM UTC-4, Leslie wrote:
>
> "It depends..."
>
> Different Rivendell frames have been made by different companies.   For 
> example, the Rambouillet frames were made by Toyo, the Roadeo frames have 
> all been made by Waterford.  Some, like the AHH, were made by Toyo, are are 
> now made by Waterford.   Some, like the Hilborne, are made in Taiwan.  The 
> customs have been made by various builders over the years (Joe Starck, Curt 
> Goodrich,  Mark Nobilette, etc.
>
> Some are just sequential numbering, but some, like the Waterford-built 
> frames, have a coding implemented in the numbering.
>
> Any particular model you're asking in regards to?  
>
>
>
> On Thursday, August 2, 2012 6:07:40 PM UTC-4, lungimsam wrote:
>>
>> What do the numbers mean? Does it indicate date of manufacture, etc?
>
>

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[RBW] Re: What do Rivendell Riders use for gloves below 35 degrees F?

[Matt Beebe]

mittens!trigger mittens work well too for brakes etc.   but yeah, 
mittens.   I'll oftentimes put multiple layers of mittens on depending on 
how cold it is.


On Saturday, November 23, 2013 2:58:41 PM UTC-5, Michael wrote:
>
> Looking for gloves and thought I would see what you all use.
>

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[RBW] Re: Quick Swapping of Wald Basket on Front Rack

[Matt Beebe]

It might not be quick (might even be tedious), but small hose clamps 

 
are reusable and would keep the basket firmly in place.In any case, as 
Michael pointed out you need something that has a strong clamping effect, 
otherwise the basket would likely rattle around.



On Sunday, September 7, 2014 7:52:41 PM UTC-4, Call Me Jay wrote:
>
> I'm thinking of getting a front rack and Wald basket for my newish Homer 
> for commuting use.  I already have a Sackville Shop Sack so it seems like a 
> no brainer.  That said, I'd like to able easily take off the basket for 
> weekend rides with a rando bag without having to cut zip ties.  Kind of a 
> hassle and a bit wasteful.  Any suggestions? 
>

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[RBW] Re: under-sizing

[Matt Beebe]

I do a lot of trail biking (which around here means the woods-  hilly 
singletrack with plenty of roots and rocks) on a Quickbeam, which is sized 
rivendell recommended saddle height minus 16cm.I have sometimes felt I 
should have more standover clearance, due to prevailing beliefs.But in 
fact when i think about it, I have actually never had an issue with 
standover-  not once that i can recall-  despite countless foot-downs, 
sudden dismounts, occasional spills, etc. I've definitely been nearly 
violated by the saddle a few times during a sudden dismount or slipped 
pedal, but never by the top-tube.


On Friday, September 12, 2014 11:18:17 PM UTC-4, rw1911 wrote:
>
> All of these recent Atlantis-for-sale posts have got me thinking of 
> building up an old school like mountain bike.  i.e. smaller than what Riv 
> would recommend for fit.  I recently sold an All-Rounder which I felt was 
> too big for me on anything other than light trails.  My road bike is a 60cm 
> Rambouillet and it fits well.
>
> I'm thinking something like a 56cm Atlantis with max (26x2.35?) tires. 
> 200mm bullmoose bars to get the proper reach.  There would be over 20cm of 
> seat post, but could it work?  Anyone done it?  Also, are the 26" wheeled 
> Atlanti 650b capable?
>

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[RBW] Re: Original Mustache Bar Brake Lever Positioning.

[Matt Beebe]

It's down to personal preference but I find the OG moustaches work best 
when the tips of the hoods (where the cable exits) are no more than 12.5cm 
apart.Any more than that and I start to lose the 'on the hoods' 
position because the wrist angle gets weird.   



On Sunday, September 28, 2014 2:10:21 PM UTC-4, David Banzer wrote:
>
> It's been awhile since I've tried mustaches, but I wanted to try them out 
> again. 
> I'm using old Dia Compe non-aero brake levers and am trying to get a 
> comfortable position for them.
> Any tips for setting up brake levers on the original mustache bar?
> Thanks,
> David
> Chicago
>

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[RBW] Re: Rain Gear

[Matt Beebe]

Wool flannel shirts, wool undewear and socks.Twill dries fairly quickly 
compared to other cotton, so it's OK for pants.   I don't like any kind of 
'shell' jackets because i find them suffocating no matter how many vents 
you add, so I'd rather just be wet and wearing wool.   Shells are OK for 
camping, or when you're not moving anymore after a ride.   Also I find that 
regular moccasin type boat shoes, since they're kinda minimal, dry quickly 
too.



On Tuesday, September 30, 2014 11:43:00 AM UTC-4, A CT Cyclist wrote:
>
> Hi, what does everyone wear when commuting in the rain? I'm looking for 
> something that I can wear with "normal" clothing. Something light that I 
> can layer under and not sweat profusely, ha ha. 
>

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[RBW] Re: OT pocket knives and mineral oil

[Matt Beebe]

I've had success with vinegar on high carbon or non stainless knives for 
camping.   You can also use an apple, just cut one up to eat and then don't 
clean the knife for a few hours.  The acid basically creates a layer of 
Fe3O4 which does provide some protection from flaky red rust.For lower 
carbon steels (that still aren't stainless) people have used stronger acids 
and etchants to do the same thing.Heat will definitely speed up the 
chemical reaction.   I don't know about your damascus knife, I'd guess that 
this kind of treatment would obscure the pattern, but then you could always 
polish it away later.


On Sunday, October 19, 2014 11:25:57 PM UTC-4, Mathew Greiner wrote:
>
> Not long ago a thread had a handy tip about soaking an Opinel pocket knife 
> in mineral oil, then baking it at a low temp. Sounds like seasoning a cast 
> iron pan. 
> Ready to do this, and wondering if I should treat my horn handled carbon 
> blade pocket knives to the same treatment? What about the brass handled 
> damascus higonokami?
> Who has lots of fun information about pocket knife care?
>

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[RBW] Re: Dapper custom on Blug

[Matt Beebe]

I'm guessing Riv leaves the stem not fully inserted so it doesn't get 
marred or scratched prior to shipping to the owner.That way, it's up to 
the owner to set the stem height.   Riv probably would have done the same 
with the seat post, but they already know the customer's saddle-height down 
to the centimeter.



On Monday, May 26, 2014 10:16:56 AM UTC-4, RJM wrote:
>
> Great looking bike. I do agree with Patrick though, that quill is too long 
> for my tastes. 
>
>
> I think my next bike might be a Riv custom, they are just gorgeous.
>
> On Friday, May 23, 2014 11:28:31 PM UTC-5, Michael wrote:
>
>> What  nice looking custom...dig the rear brake cable running under the TT 
>> and the brake bridge and the star bosses and the window on the dropout stay 
>> thingy, and the color, and how fast the bike looks.
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Grand Bois Cypres tires, a review.

[Matt Beebe]

exploring the nuances of supple-walled* 20 inch tires in a controlled 
environment





*not really



On Wednesday, June 25, 2014 5:31:03 PM UTC-4, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
> Jan Heine loves doing endos.  Rumor has it one of the reasons he likes SPD 
> pedals is that they are good for bunny hops.  I've heard he's bad at 
> wheelies, though.  I'm going to go out on a limb and guess he can't do a 
> table top.  
>
> 
>
>
> :-)
>
> On Wednesday, June 25, 2014 2:26:51 PM UTC-7, Jan Heine wrote:
>>
>> When you brake hard, you put 100% of your weight on the front wheel. With 
>> wide tires that run at relatively low pressures, that determines your tire 
>> pressure more than the load on the tire. I find that about 10% less 
>> pressure in the front than the rear works best for me on 42 mm Extralight 
>> tires...
>>
>> Jan Heine
>> Editor
>> Bicycle Quarterly
>> www.bikequarterly.com
>>
>> On Wednesday, June 25, 2014 12:58:00 PM UTC-7, Dave Johnston wrote:
>>>
>>> Why are everybodies F& R tire pressures so close? Are you really that 
>>> centered over the wheels? 
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: If you were going to go out and buy a fully modern contemporary bike, what would it be?

[Matt Beebe]

I'm with the others who said that rivendell or surly etc. steel bikes are 
fully modern.  



On Wednesday, June 25, 2014 4:58:48 PM UTC-4, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
> Most (all?) of us have a strong affinity for steel bikes.  Many of us like 
> various classic or retro properties:  lugs, friction dt shifters, fewer 
> than 11 cogs, etc.  Several of us really enjoy doing builds on classic 
> bikes from the 70s/80s/90s etc.  Many of us lament that nothing new or 
> contemporary speaks to us at all.  But many others of us do have openings 
> in the stable for things that are decidedly new.  Some of us run fatbikes. 
>  A few of us maybe has a Gates beltbike, or a newfangled folder, or a 
> dual-suspension 29er.  Some of us even have a carbon bike.  
>
> My stable is now at 9 bikes all steel, but I'll admit that I'm pretty 
> darned infatuated with this bike:
>
>
> 
>
> A sloping TT road bike, with more BB drop than a cyclocross bike.  135mm 
> rear end, disc brakes.  Very smart front facing fork tips and normal wheel 
> axles.  Takes 29x1.75 tires without fenders, and would easily run 700x38 
> tires (tubeless) with fenders.  Has all the integrated fender mount points. 
>  Has a PF30 BB that makes it easy to set it up as a singlespeed.  
>
> Add to that I can get the frame/fork/headset from Jenson for $1050 and get 
> a free $250 gift card for my next purchase(s).  So it's an $800 frameset.
> I'm having a hard time thinking of anything not to like.  Five years ago, 
> when we whined that modern bikes were designed too much for pure road 
> racers, this is the kind of thoroughly modern real-world bike I thought was 
> missing.  I have bikes that are setup to carry loads well.  For mixed 
> terrain stuff that I'd do unloaded, this bike would definitely get ridden. 
>  I imagine it would be incredibly fun
>
> Are there any thoroughly modern bikes that tempt you?  
>

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[RBW] Re: Rivendell Silver Gruppo

[Matt Beebe]

I'm a big fan of RR or 'low normal' RDs.  If they made one with big jockey 
wheels it would be fairly unique I would think.




On Thursday, July 3, 2014 5:15:35 PM UTC-4, Michael Hechmer wrote:
>
> I would like to add that, although I am not a big Shimano fan, the RD 6700 
> is a fabulous derailler.  A Silver version would be even more fabulous.
>
> Michael
>
> On Thursday, July 3, 2014 12:30:15 PM UTC-4, grant wrote:
>>
>> It's not a deep rooted love of patchwork parts that's stopping SILVER (of 
>> course)--although I have to admit that I personally have a DRL of them. But 
>> from RIV's perspective, I'd love to have a group. Here's what's stopping it.
>>
>> 1. Derailers.If it's not an original design(to some degree--obviously we 
>> wouldn't start from scratch), then it's just private label, and I've always 
>> thought just putting one's own label on an existing produts was half wimpy. 
>> Not immoral, not making any judgments here, but it's always bugged me in a 
>> tiny way, and I try to steer clear. It may happen now and then (nothing 
>> comes to mind), and it's possible something's even slipped through already 
>> and been forgotten, but my DREAM derailer would be a monster-pulley 
>> rapid-riser, maybe with a slow-riser option for those not ready to take the 
>> rapid-rise plunge. But derailers are complicated to make, and the makers 
>> want volume we can't come close to. 
>>
>> Come to think of it, the SILVER shifter is just a copy of the SunTour 
>> Sprint--but in this case I don't feel slimy, because SunTour had no 
>> interested in remaking it under its label or any other--but was happy to 
>> provide tech assistance and parts suppliers support to Dia-Come/Tech, the 
>> SilverShifterMaker.
>>
>> 2. As for redesigning or original designing parts in general...first 
>> there should be a need that's not being filled. The GigantiPulley RR rear 
>> der is one of them, although "need" is being stretched. Front derailers, I 
>> know our mechanics would have some ideas on that, although most would 
>> involve Not Requiring Shims to fit what we still consider to be a normal 
>> seat tube diameter. The current shim necessity is not worth crying too much 
>> over, I think. A small case could be made that shims make a gentler contact 
>> point, although that's looking too hard for a silver (npi) lining,
>>
>> The crank will be dreamy, but the Sugino is just so good. It's hard to 
>> make a case for the crank, except that at some point Sugino will quit 
>> making the XD-2 or whatever we're supposed to call it, and then we'd be 
>> stuck with nothing special (no offense if your favorite crank isn't 
>> recognized here).
>>
>> Dang, the SILVER hubs violate our "no mere private label" ideal. We tried 
>> to reshape the body, and it could be done, but it was thousands upon 
>> thousands and high minimums to do that, and it was all for a superficial 
>> uniqueness that ended up not making sense. So the SILVER hubs are an only 
>> slightly unique combination of stock-available features from the hub maker. 
>> We went with the best of everything and the quietest freewheeling (a matter 
>> of how much grease is in there).
>>
>> But still in general, we like to fill in gaps rather than just fill out a 
>> whole line. It would be so great to have, like, funding for this 
>> stuff---but it's better to have a group like this who supports and 
>> encourages and keeps us going day by day, so thanks to all of you.
>>
>> G
>>
>> On Wednesday, July 2, 2014 10:03:35 PM UTC-7, lungimsam wrote:
>>>
>>> Been reading about Campagnolo and his history in the new BQ mag.
>>> Very interesting.
>>> I think the idea of groupsets is really cool, especially if RBW had a 
>>> "Silver" groupset to sell one day.
>>>
>>> I don't think that will ever happen because they seem to like a 
>>> patchwork of parts for their bikes, *which makes total sense*, so you 
>>> can build it as functionally as possible with no restrictions to the parts 
>>> you want for your needs.
>>>
>>> But it would be cool to have everything on the bike matching "Silver"!
>>>
>>> So far you can patch together a Silver 4-piece group: sidepull brakes, 
>>> BE/DT shifter levers, chainrings, and a Hupe.
>>>
>>> Top it off with one of those Rivendell Rider Brooks saddles if you can 
>>> find one!
>>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: New Sam Hillborne

[Matt Beebe]

You can distinguish between actual TT length and theoretical/horizontal 
length. Because of the ~6-degree upslope of the TT on the hillborne, at 
least on the the original metallic green ones, the size 56 had a 57.5 
actual TT length, but a 59cm horizontal length (measured level to the 
ground).



On Sunday, July 27, 2014 3:37:27 PM UTC-4, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
> I don't want to confuse the discussion about the Samuel Hillborne, the 
> 56cm Samuel Hillborne in particular, but here goes.  
>
> Not every 56cm Samuel Hillborne has a 59cm TT.  Patrick Moore's prototype 
> Waterford Hillborne undoubtedly did, and the Geo charts still say that it 
> does, but my Orange 56cm Hillborne does not.  Mine has a 57.5cm top tube.  
> At the time (December 2009) I was a little freaked out at the thought of a 
> 59cm Top Tube.  Keven told me that it had been changed to 57.5cm.  I 
> measured on my new frame when I bought it and confirmed that's what it was 
> (57.5cm).  I have no idea how many 56cm Hillbornes have a 59cm top tube 
> like Patrick Moore's had, and how many have a 57.5cm top tube like mine.  
> All I know for sure is that at least one was 59cm (Patrick's) and at least 
> one is 57.5 cm (mine).  If the OP ends up buying a new Sam Hillborne, then 
> he'll need to start over comparing a 55cm and a 58cm Hillborne, with their 
> associated geonumbers.  If the OP buys a used 56, it may be useful to find 
> out which TT length he is getting.  As Patrick correctly pointed out, it 
> matters (although nobody said it didn't), and as Grant correctly pointed 
> out, it's not the only thing that matters or even the most important thing. 
>   
>
>
> On Saturday, July 26, 2014 8:23:36 AM UTC-7, grant wrote:
>>
>> It must be true that you ended up with too bigga bike. I don't remember 
>> the particulars and I'm sorry if the bike didn't work out. I may have 
>> misunderstood some answers to questions or maybe didn't ask the questions 
>> (the ones that steer me toward a recommendation) as clearly as I should've. 
>> I may have goofed, but I didn't actively and knowingly "sell" you a bike 
>> that didn't fit. I'm not saying it happened without me, just that even back 
>> then I was as conscientious (concerned about fit) as I am now. But...sorry.
>>
>> The Long Low happened like15 or more years ago, and to this day the 
>> length of a top tube remains easily misunderstandable. Of course it isn't 
>> an isolated number. A 59cm top tube on one bike can feel short, and on 
>> another bike, long...depending on Seat tube angle, even bb drop, stem exit 
>> point and how that compares to seat tube length, and more obviously, to 
>> handlebar shape.  On a bike like a LongLow that is meant to accept 
>> useful tires and fenders, the front-center dimension is another tie-in to 
>> the frame geometry...but this is getting kind of deep & detailed & 
>> defensive for what was supposed to be a quick apology with an acceptable 
>> amount of personal defense!
>>
>> Anyway, sorry & best,
>> G
>>
>> On Saturday, July 26, 2014 6:28:36 AM UTC-7, Charlie wrote:
>>>
>>> I AGREE !!!
>>>
>>> Grant sold me a Long Low 58 with a very long top tube = NO standover 
>>> clerance  way too long top tube (could have turned the stem around backward 
>>> to fit right). NOW it is with a new  happy owner.
>>> Charlie  
>>>
>>> On Thursday, July 24, 2014 11:59:52 AM UTC-4, Patrick Moore wrote:

 A dissenting opinion: I had a 56 and found the 59 cm top tube too long. 
 If you have a preferred bar and a preferred bar position with respect to 
 the saddle, there are limits to adjusting reach by adjusting the stem -- I 
 could not get the Sam's Noodle close enough to the saddle with a normal 
 stem, even with the Sam's relaxed seat tube angle. I could have used a 5 
 or 
 6 cm extension, except that would put too little weight on the front 
 wheel. 
 I ended up with the bar too high for my liking -- some 5-6 cm above the 
 saddle, when even for a "country' bike I prefer it no more than 2 cm above 
 saddle. Top tube length matters!

 I personally would very definitely test ride one if you can, though if 
 you don't mind very high bars, you have less need to worry about top tube 
 length. Me, I like my bars where I like them -- it's not a variable but a 
 given.

 The Sam would be an excellent candidate for upright bars, though.


 On Thu, Jul 24, 2014 at 9:35 AM, lungimsam  wrote:

> Most people seem happy with the Rivendell method of sizing for their 
> bikes.
>
> *If this is your first bike*, just go with their sizing. You can 
> always use a shorter or longer stem, and rotate the brake levers little 
> more forward or back on the handlebars (if using drops) to try to buy the 
> centimeters you need to get the reach comfortable for you. If using other 
> bars, then it is even easier to fit for reach because you are talking 
> h

[RBW] Re: Sackville (Baggins) Reference

[Matt Beebe]

I'm just glad these good bikes that Grant Petersen designs aren't named 
after Atlas Shrugged, and this isn't the John Galt BW Owner's bunch.





On Wednesday, March 6, 2013 11:39:21 AM UTC-5, colinthehippie wrote:
>
> My third reading of the Lord of the Rings trilogy, and I just realized the 
> Sackville reference by our friends at RBW.  It's funny when you recognize 
> it in the Sackville Bags name.  I must be pretty dense.
>
> Cheers and happy reading/riding,
>
> Colin Cummings
> Amarillo, tx
>

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Re: [RBW] How do Silver Shifters work?

[Matt Beebe]

That's not actually how it works- the internal cog in the silver 
shifter is not spring loaded at all;  it is simply friction'd against the 
inner wall of the shifter mechanism.As a cog it is toothed, though, and 
the Silver lever itself holds a pawl which grabs the wheel in one direction 
and floats (ratchets) in the other.  

In summary the Silver mechanism is a friction shifter with a pawl/cog that 
ratchets when pulling the cable, and grabs the cog to rely on its friction 
to stop it from sliding back.   

The only reason I know this is because I have worn out the pawl in a Silver 
shifter, and took it apart to overhaul it.

Matt


On Friday, March 8, 2013 11:36:52 AM UTC-5, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> There is an internal wheel that is spring loaded against the pull of 
> the derailleur spring but ratchets via friction only in the opposite 
> direction. That is, when you pull against a derailleur spring, the 
> device ratchets and the resistance is friction only, but when you are 
> moving the cable "with" the derailleur spring, the ratchets catch the 
> internal spring loaded wheel and add additional resistance against 
> slippage. 
>
> Simplex's retrofrictions (IMO, even better than the SunTour system in 
> the Silvers) is even nicer feeling, tho' that may be due to the small 
> shifter barrels. 
>
> And my right side Silver doesn't do this. Would like help in 
> troubleshooting or a not-too-expensive replacement. 
> __ 
>
> On Fri, Mar 8, 2013 at 9:30 AM, Michael > 
> wrote: 
> > Looks like a mini-ratchetting system. Like micro-indexing or something. 
> > 
> > So I am guessing that when you shift gears, the ratchet mechanism holds 
> the 
> > derailer in place over the cog so you will not have the chain slip off 
> if it 
> > isn't a perfect shift, like what happens in pure friction shifting? 
> > 
> > That would be a nice improvement over friction, as I have had the chain 
> drop 
> > to higher gear when standing. Ouch!! 
> > 
> > -- 
> > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google 
> Groups 
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>
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> > http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en-US. 
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> > 
> > 
>  
>
> BUSINESS BUILDING COME-ON!! 
> $300 off a $600 resume + letter or Linked In profile package with 
> referral that leads to full price sale! Refer two full-pay clients and 
> you get the package for free! 
>
> I am not cheap, but I am very good. So they say. 
>
> Patrick Moore, Ph.D, MBA, ACRW, Albuquerque, NM, USA 
> http://resumespecialties.com/index.html * 
> patric...@resumespecialties.com 
> __ 
>

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[RBW] Re: aluminum bars should be replaced after 5 years (steel noodles in future?)

[Matt Beebe]

I remember reading about a year ago, either on the blug or in a broadcast 
email from Riv, that there were plans for steel Noodle bars.If this is 
the case, amen, and I'll definitely be buying them.Rivendell seems to 
have steel upright bars covered between the Boscos and the Bullmooses, but 
I'd be pumped to have a steel version of the Noodle bar.



On Monday, March 18, 2013 4:40:49 PM UTC-4, Ryan Ray wrote:
>
> I had a friend who broke his collarbone recently when his vintage cinelli 
> bars snapped during a decent. I immediately thought about this.
>
> I did think it was 10 years though, right?
>
> - Ryan
>
>
>
> On Monday, March 18, 2013 12:50:43 PM UTC-7, Michael wrote:
>>
>> In a cool interview with Nitto exec Mr. Yoshikawa, Grant asks this 
>> question. Nitto exec leaves it up to consumer. So I was wondering if 
>> anything to be concerned about. Anyone know anything about aluminum bar 
>> life?
>> Do I need to throw away the old used set of bars I have? Don't want any 
>> accidents.
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: wanted: large saddlesack

[Matt Beebe]

Forgive me for responding as I don't have one available, but can't help but 
share that I do own a large saddlesack, and that it is the most useful 
piece of auxiliary bicycle equipment I have ever owned... and I have more 
than one large saddlebag from another renowned and long-lived maker.   I 
bought my large saddlesack from Rivendell at $230 IIRC, and it is worth 
every penny and then some.  Good luck in your search, but whoever is 
willing to trade away their large Saddlesack bag is crazy.



On Sunday, March 24, 2013 10:16:21 AM UTC-4, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery 
wrote:
>
> So I obtained a saddlesack from another list member, but it turns out to 
> be a medium, not a large. I like the medium a lot, and will put it to good 
> use, but I'm still in search of a large saddlesack. Anybody have one?

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Re: [RBW] Re: wanted: large saddlesack

[Matt Beebe]

You may have called them just before a new shipment of the bags or 
something, because the last broadcast email from Rivendell, about 10 days 
ago, said they have all sackville bags in stock.   Still, if you can find 
an insane person who wants to get rid of theirs, please take the bag, as it 
clearly needs a safer home away from that unfit bag-owner.


On Sunday, March 24, 2013 11:16:12 AM UTC-4, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery 
wrote:
>
> Thanks Matt. I'd buy one from Riv, but there weren't any in stock last I 
> checked (a couple weeks ago), and nobody I asked there seemed to have an 
> estimate of when more would be available.
>
> My hope is that somebody here has one, and for whatever reason, doesn't 
> use it enough to justify keeping it around. Swapping stuff is hardly an 
> unheard-of scenario with this bunch!
>

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[RBW] Re: What's that response called, and which model has it?

[Matt Beebe]

I remember reading somewhere that the AHH and the Rambouillet share the 
same tubing specifications throughout, and that the only difference between 
them is tire brake reach/tire clearance.

Incidentally there is a post on the Blug about the tubing on the AHH, 
saying it is a mix of True Temper/OX Platinum for seattube/chainstays, 
Reynolds seatstays, .8/.5/.8 OX Platinum top and down tubes, 0.76 wall 
chainstays, etc. 

http://rivbike.tumblr.com/post/3218082349/the-t-question-long-post-dry-reading



On Thursday, April 4, 2013 12:55:34 AM UTC-4, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> I've owned a Romulus and an AHH. They both felt about the same to me, with 
> that nice springy feel. That said, my new-to-me Rambouillet feels 
> lighter/springier, for what it's worth. I suspect it has slightly thinner 
> tubing walls in the main triangle.

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[RBW] Re: What's that response called, and which model has it?

[Matt Beebe]

I remember reading somewhere that the AHH and the Rambouillet share the 
same tubing specifications throughout, and that the only difference between 
them is the brake reach and tire clearance.

Incidentally there is a post on the Blug about the tubing on the AHH, 
explaining that it is a mix of True Temper/OX Platinum for 
seattube/chainstays, Reynolds seatstays, .8/.5/.8 OX Platinum top and down 
tubes, 0.76 wall chainstays, etc. 

http://rivbike.tumblr.com/post/3218082349/the-t-question-long-post-dry-reading



On Thursday, April 4, 2013 12:55:34 AM UTC-4, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> I've owned a Romulus and an AHH. They both felt about the same to me, with 
> that nice springy feel. That said, my new-to-me Rambouillet feels 
> lighter/springier, for what it's worth. I suspect it has slightly thinner 
> tubing walls in the main triangle.

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Re: [RBW] Re: What's that response called, and which model has it?

[Matt Beebe]

On Friday, April 5, 2013 8:30:14 AM UTC-4, Steve Palincsar wrote:
> It's also been said that the AHH began life as a Saluki with a different 
> decal and headbadge.  They can't both be true, because both the 
> clearance and the head angle on the two are different (71 vs 73). 


IIRC, what I read definitely did not indicate that they shared 
geometries...  just tubing specs.



On Friday, April 5, 2013 8:30:14 AM UTC-4, Steve Palincsar wrote:
>
> On Fri, 2013-04-05 at 03:47 -0700, Matt Beebe wrote: 
> > I remember reading somewhere that the AHH and the Rambouillet share 
> > the same tubing specifications throughout, and that the only 
> > difference between them is tire brake reach/tire clearance. 
> > 
>
> It's also been said that the AHH began life as a Saluki with a different 
> decal and headbadge.  They can't both be true, because both the 
> clearance and the head angle on the two are different (71 vs 73). 
>
>
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: What's that response called, and which model has it?

[Matt Beebe]

On Friday, April 5, 2013 8:30:14 AM UTC-4, Steve Palincsar wrote:
> It's also been said that the AHH began life as a Saluki with a different 
> decal and headbadge.  They can't both be true, because both the 
> clearance and the head angle on the two are different (71 vs 73). 


I haven't seen any claim that they shared geometries...  just tubing specs.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Moustache vs. Noodle bar reach overlay with pics

[Matt Beebe]

 I have moustache bars on one of my bikes.I got used to them and really 
like them.   As others have pointed out, they are especially good for 
offroad riding, but I've used them for long distance too.


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Re: [RBW] Re: OT: your opinion of the Bridgestone RB-T?

[Matt Beebe]

If you like lugged steel bikes with traditional geometries, you just can't 
find a new bike in the <$500 price range that compares to the golden age 
70's and 80's (and early 90's bridgestone) bikes out there.There were 
some seriously high quality steel frames made back then.I have a few 
vintage bikes in my stable, and it sometimes amazes me that they were at 
one time, in my lifetime, standard fare at the bike shop.

I agree that you don't want to spend a lot on a rig in need of major TLC, 
but there are tons of 20+ year old bikes that have pretty much never been 
ridden.   One of my best bikes is one that was made in 1983 that I picked 
up several years ago, and which has served me well for those years and tens 
of thousands of miles of transport.   Now, it only fits 28's with fenders- 
   but has similar geometry to a Rivendell, rack and fender mounts, high 
quality steel, unbelievably nice shaped and filed lugs, and terrific ride 
characteristics and comfort.   I love riding that bike, and in about a half 
hour will begin putting another 30 miles on it.

BUT I also wholeheartedly agree with EricP. If you want a 700c bike 
with better tire/fender clearances (larger than 28s)-  and this is a 
fundamentally important feature to those who are accustomed to larger 
tires-   vintage is definitely not where to look (unless it's an early 
Rivendell Allrounder or something unusual).  

Matt

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[RBW] Re: Favorite pedals?

[Matt Beebe]

I used to like BMX pedals or the MKS sylvans, but I have rubber block 
pedals on all my bikes now because they don't tear up my shoes, which often 
times have leather soles (moccasins).  My current fav is the wellgo 
LU-868 pedal.









On Friday, April 12, 2013 10:26:06 AM UTC-4, Tom Goodmann wrote:
>
> I notice that bikes new and used often come without saddles and pedals, 
> and I have a pedal choice to make.  I've moved beyond clipless (carbon no 
> mas!), though not necessarily beyond clips/straps or Power Grips; riding 
> "naked" feels funny after so many years of being at least in clips & 
> straps, but of course worth trying. Otherwise I don't know enough to make 
> discriminating choices; the MKS Sylvans on my XO-1, for instance, feel fine 
> to me.  Some of your current favorites?  --Tom

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[RBW] Re: OT: your opinion of the Bridgestone RB-T?

[Matt Beebe]

> On Friday, April 12, 2013 11:53:28 PM UTC-4, Jimmy Hutch wrote:
>> A reliable bike will get ridden way more than an old artfully crafted 
lugged beauty that needs constant TLC.

I don't get why people think older bikes need constant TLC.   If anything, 
a good bike from the 70's, 80's or 90's is going to be *more* reliable for 
the price, than a new bike at that same price. And if a person rides a 
bike, purchased brand-new or not- actually rides it-  he or she will 
eventually need to replace things on it.Tires, chain/cogs, brakes, 
etc. They haven't invented wear-proof parts yet (though steel 
chainrings will get you farther than buttery soft Aluminum :)

I'm not trying to be a wise ass here-the beauty of vintage bikes is 
that they tend to be simpler in design, so unless you buy something that 
only takes French threading or something else oddball, anybody experienced 
with pre-techno lego blocks can probably figure them out.Rivendell has 
managed to similarly keep unnecessary complication out of their bikes, and 
that's one of the many draws to them.But really, that's the beauty of 
bicycles in general-most of them are simple and cheap to fix, compared 
to say, a car.

I understand the desire not to buy something that *immediately* needs TLC. 
But on the other hand, there are so many "pre-owned" bikes out there 
that have barely been ridden, and furthermore there are bikes shops that 
sell older bikes that they have refurbished/made sure everything is in 
order.  Bikes Not Bombs or Cambridge Antique Market around here, for 
example.

Matt

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[RBW] Re: Suntour is back & says it's keeping it real w/ old skool ideology

[Matt Beebe]

Definitely cool news.Their philosophy bodes well for the kinds of 
components they will make, i.e. "we cycled to be closer to nature, for the 
environment, for our health... ”The large flange hubs look nice, and 
it's cool that they have a photo of the Hunqapillar on the "Homebase" page  
:)  



On Saturday, April 13, 2013 12:39:55 AM UTC-4, stonehog wrote:
>
> Forwarding from the Rando list. Interesting from the many Rivs with 
> Suntour components...
>
> Brian Hanson
> Seattle, Wa
>
> Begin forwarded message:
>
> *From:* Jenny Oh Hatfield >
> *Date:* April 12, 2013, 9:36:27 AM HST
> *To:* ran...@googlegroups.com 
> *Subject:* *[Randon] Suntour is back & says it's keeping it real w/ old 
> skool ideology*
>
> "Junzo feels the time is right to re-enter the bicycle component 
> business.  As he puts it “the market is too race-centric;  carbon fiber, 
> electric shifting, full suspension, 11 speed, doesn’t really enhance the 
> enjoyment of cycling.  In the 1970’s and 80’s we cycled to be closer to 
> nature, for the environment, for our health, for the simple beauty of 
> cycling.”  For these reasons SunXCD will focus on touring and randonneuring 
> components which were the focus of SunTour during its heyday."
>
> Read more here .
>
> Cheers,
>
> Jenny
>
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>  
>  
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: OT: your opinion of the Bridgestone RB-T?

[Matt Beebe]

I'm not sure who is looking through rose-colored glasses. Unless you 
want to buy a new Rivendell for $2000 and up (which is *well *worth it, but 
perhaps beyond budget*)*, you absolutely will not find a better bike for 
less than $500 than a 1980's Trek including any model from the 400 to the 
720, or any number of specimen from Specialized, Fuji, Univega, late 80's 
Centurion, Bridgestones (as mentioned), many of which had bottle bosses and 
fender/rack mounts, good components (certainly better than you will find on 
a sub $500 bike today), attractive, long-lasting steel frames, and 
geometries that compare to the most comfortable (non-rivendell) bikes made 
today.If you're scared of vintage, you can find $1000+ bikes that were 
made in the 90's or 2000's at a steep discount, often less than $500, 
virtually unridden. The late 90's/early 2000's trek 520 or Fuji 
Tourings are good examples.

Here's a nice Trek 420 for $420:
http://madison.craigslist.org/bik/3728345005.html

This is a Fuji Cadenza MTB for $175:
http://portland.craigslist.org/wsc/bik/3740889274.html

Or a sweet larger sized MTB for $100:
http://dallas.craigslist.org/ndf/bik/3679764778.html

A Trek 620, $350:
http://worcester.craigslist.org/bik/3701528954.html

59cm Bridgestone CB-0 for $500.Barely ever used:
http://pullman.craigslist.org/bid/3671050042.html


Matt

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[RBW] Re: new, modified moustache bar

[Matt Beebe]

I guess I'm one of the people who loves the current moustache bar. I 
feel that if something absolutely *had* to change about it, it would be a 
longer 'retreive' and nothing more.Call it the Fu Manchu or Wyatt Earp 
Edition or something.Anyway they definitely don't need to be wider 
IMHO. But Grant's post says they are far out so who knows what the 
final version will be like. 

I'm really excited about the other new stuff in the works though.   The 
Clem Smith Jr. sounds like it will be something to behold.


Matt

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[RBW] Re: Pictures of the worlds most perfect Atlantis (for me). Should I paint the head tube ivory?

[Matt Beebe]

+1 Car Free.



On Wednesday, April 24, 2013 9:23:00 AM UTC-4, Matthew J wrote:
>
> > This is my car. I don't own a carbon spewing, children killing, money 
> sucking car.
>  
> Car Free going on 9 years now.  Certainly healthier, couldn't be happier.
>  
> Ivory is a nice color on a lugged bike.  Course your will have to part 
> with your ride for a while.
>
>  
>

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[RBW] Re: FS: 1984 Trek 620

[Matt Beebe]

Legendary!  620.   That one and the 1985 model.I have an '82 614 and an 
'89 520 myself.   80's Treks are such righteous bikes.Thanks for 
posting the pics.

Matt


On Wednesday, April 24, 2013 12:44:54 PM UTC-4, Michael Hechmer wrote:
>
> 1984 Trek 620
>
>
> Classic Trek Frame, Reynolds 531, in good condition.  Never crashed, some 
> paint chips and some oxidation at cable guides.
>
> ST,  61 C-T;  TT, 58 C-C;  CS 45.5; 
>
>
> This bike was originally sold as a touring frame with 27”whees and I can 
> ship a set of 27”wheels if buyer prefers, but the cantis will align with 
> 700c.  Today this would be called a sport-touring bike.  The dimensions, 
> tire capacity, and handling are remarkably similar to my Rambouillet.  It 
> might be a bit lighter & quicker, both on handling and acceleration, but 
> that may be my imagination.  Anyway it is very versatile, will handle 32mm 
> tires & fenders, and is fun to ride.  I have replaced it with a Saluki, 
> which is a better alternative to my Ram.
>
>
> Bike $900; Frame Set with new Cane Creek HS and Tange BB  $500
>
>
> Components:
>
> Nitto stem 12cm, Noodle bars 46cm, Nitto seat post al in excellent 
> condition.
>
> Brakes - Original Di Comp Cantis and new Tektro Levers
>
> Crank - Sugino triple (48/34/26) 175 mm  with new rings.
>
> Wheels - Arraya/105.  These were the wheels supplied with my Ram.
>
> Cassette - Ultegra 9 spd, 12-27
>
> RD - Ultegra; FD - 105; Bar End Silver Shifters.
>
> Tires 32 mm Tserv in good condition.
>
>
> Pictures at:
>
>
> https://plus.google.com/photos/110692344592863063357/albums/5854943142571386961/5854943370814286722?gpinv=AMIXal9e0mleDCNGoyXUV5CI1T60WYdBA8lzWsKsOiVDePoqvNWnu_FoWtJkaoqNd0YbTNq1mHDYMEMOI2-CykLtchc5-aX-aEhXY_rnPCZqu47N6jQwqns&cfem=1&authkey=CM3pooC459W75wE
>
>
>
> Please respond off list
>
> Michael
>

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[RBW] Re: Question for modern geometry race bike only riders who later went to Rivendells.

[Matt Beebe]

I'd second the micro-adjustments approach, and maybe try slight changes to 
your seat-angle (if you haven't already), since it's your lower back that 
is hurting. Obviously this is just a WAG, since it could be any number 
of things and how the hell would i know, but I'm just saying that's what I 
would try.Sometimes a smidgen of a degree this way or that can make a 
huge difference. Anyway good luck and hope you find something that 
works.


Matt



On Sunday, April 28, 2013 11:02:15 PM UTC-4, Michael wrote:
>
> Wanted your thoughts and experience on this issue I have been having with 
> my Riv's. I know this sounds rediculous, but:
> *I am wondering if you had any trouble adapting from race geometry fit 
> bikes you were used to riding, to the more upright-like rivendell bikes and 
> how you got through it.*
>  
> Here is what I mean:
> I started on a race geometry bike and rode it for 3.5 years. I was only 
> about 1.5cm below saddle height with the drop bars. So it was nothing 
> extreme.
> Always comfy, but wished I could sit more upright for better view 
> sometimes. I wanted to sit higher, have more stable wider tires, and 
> fenderability. I like the traditional steel type frame looks and 
> appointments, too.
>  
> Now:
> Got a Bleriot last August, and a new Sam in Feb. 2013.
> They are great rides, and comfy during the rides, but since last September 
> I pay for it later in the day with low back pain, etc, that can last into 
> the next day.
> No matter what set up I try, I seem to have problems. Noodle drop versions 
> of the bikes.
> I am puzzled by this really wierd and frustrating experience. Am I just 
> getting old (44 now)? Medically I seem to be fine, and doc seems to think 
> my back is fine. More upright is supposed to be better for the back and 
> neck. Maybe sitting bolt upright, or sitting low is good for the back, but 
> anything between 40-80 degrees isn't for some?
>  
> *I can only imagine that my problem is that, for whatever reason, my body 
> just doesn't like to sit upright.* Seems like anything above saddle 
> height for the bars causes pain. But I am happy to have the wider tires and 
> fenderability features. Now if I could just dial in the fit.
> I guess I will try to replicate my race fit onto the Rivs and see how it 
> goes.
>  
> Any thoughts, experiences? Just losing my sanity?
>  
>  
> ** 
>

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Re: [RBW] Crank Length Question

[Matt Beebe]

I'd echo what others have said, that is you are supposed to dismount when 
stopped.   You shouldn't be able to put a foot down while in the saddle 
unless you have a wicked shallow ST angle or "crank-forward" design. I 
do draw the line at trackstands; they don't look cool.

Personally, I don't mind having the TT "right there" so-to-speak, as on a 
right-fitting bike, because when I dismount at a stop, only one foot goes 
down, the other stays on the pedal, and I basically sit on the top tube 
with my thigh.If the TT were too low, I would not be able to do this as 
easily, and would have to keep hold of the bars to keep the bike from 
falling over, or stoop awkwardly to sit on the TT while waiting for the 
light.

Also keep in mind that longer cranks will also make pedal strike more 
likely, if that is any concern for you. 

I feel your pain though regarding the stop-and-go, man.traffic lights 
are a royal pain in the ass, and seem even more so when you learn the 
history of them as described in this 
bookby
 Peter Norton.   


Matt

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[RBW] Re: Headsets and bottom brackets, sexy reliable vs. cheap reliable what's your take?

[Matt Beebe]

I use regular unsealed bearing headsets, but have always tossed the bottom 
cages and added bearings on the bottom race to avoid notchy steering.   
They will go virtually forever that way.   But lately I'm all about the 
needle bearing headsets Riv is carrying.no fuss :)



On Tuesday, April 30, 2013 2:07:03 PM UTC-4, jinxed wrote:
>
> Things have a way of snowballing. 
>
> The headset in my AR had been feeling ratchety for a while and then the 
> bottom bracket started giving me the grit so I decided to give in and tear 
> it down for some TLC. The good ol shimano UN53 had pooped out after 
> countless miles serving umpteen bikes and the headset cup was notched as I 
> expected. Since I had the frame all torn down I decided to send it off for 
> a makeover while I pondered the replacement parts.
>
> My initial thought was to add a little chi-chi and spring for a Phil BB 
> and a King headset. These are often the exemplary put them in and forget 
> about it items, though they will make an initial dent (cavern) in the 
> wallet. 
>
> On the bottom bracket, I have not quite mentally committed to the Phil 
> since a UN53 is less than a 4 pack of Duvel and will last 10 years like the 
> last onebut for something that is completely hidden from view that Phil 
> sure does have some allure! I suppose it's fair to include the weight 
> savings and MUSA in the price all things considered.
>
> I was pretty settled on the King headset, but then decided to dig around 
> in my parts bin thinking I had some 1" sets floating around. I knew I had a 
> bunch of random HS parts, but wasnt sure if any were complete till I found 
> this! A basically NOS Dura Ace 
> HP-7400
> .
>
> OK so now I have perfectly usable and honestly period correct HS I could 
> use on the AR, but it will obviously need more attention than a modern 
> sealed setup. I have to admit I'm a bit lazy when it comes to routine caged 
> bearing maintenance and I never avoid getting the bike sloppy. 
>
> I'm curious what you guys think on the matter of old school caged bearings 
> vs sealed, and boat anchor shimano BB's. And also, for those who have gone 
> the full monty with a phil TI spindle...do you have any creaking issues?
>

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[RBW] Re: Crank Length Question

[Matt Beebe]

Well of course there will be exceptions, but yes, you are all freaks.


On Wednesday, May 1, 2013 12:42:33 AM UTC-4, rob markwardt wrote:
>
> 'I'd echo what others have said, that is you are supposed to dismount when 
> stopped."
>
> I must be a freak.  I'll dismount for a long light but for the quickies 
> I'm a tip-toer from the saddle...always thought it was pretty easy.  I 
> think I like my saddle a little lower than some but nothing excessive. 
>  I've had cranks from 165-175 and it works for all of them. 
>
> proof...
>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/77502424@N00/6040583544/in/photostream/
>
> Rob "I am not an animal.  I am a human being!!"  Markwardt 
>

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[RBW] Re: Show me your overstuffed Small Sackville Saddlesack

[Matt Beebe]

Sorry to go off topic from the small saddlesack, which is a great bag, but 
I thought I'd chime in on the issue of relative proportions and aesthetics.

I have a Large saddlesack on my main bike.When I first got it, it 
indeed looked big.  But after a few weeks it looked just right, and other 
bags began to look positively tiny in comparison. One of the things I 
like about the Large is that when I go to the grocery store on a rainy day, 
I don't have to think about whether what I'm buying will fit into the 
bag;   it just does.

Using that bag is not just convenient, it actually transcends into the 
realm of fun.I think it's because it gives you power.


-Matt



On Saturday, May 4, 2013 11:09:15 PM UTC-4, Joe K wrote:
>
> No pictures from me either, but I bought the Small thinking it would 
> likely be all I ever need, then discovered how much room a coiled cable 
> lock, tool bag, spare tube and windbreaker or poncho take up -- it's like 
> half the UNstuffed bag.  I haven't really tested its overstuffed capacity.
>
> On my particular bike, the Small just looks "right," in proportion, and 
> doesn't interfere with the canti brake cable.  Aesthetically, the Medium 
> would look massive, but I know that extra capacity could prove useful one 
> day.
>
> Joe K
>
> On Saturday, May 4, 2013 8:26:04 PM UTC-4, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>>
>> No pictures, but I over stuff mine with my Filson Makinaw Cruiser 
>> spilling out each side, with the pack holding my rain jacket, gloves, 
>> socks, pipe pouch, and I'm pretty sure I've had 1-2 shirts and my moccasins 
>> in there as well. That's actually one of the reasons I'm trying to figure 
>> out how to carry stuff in the front, because for 8 months of the year in 
>> the Colorado mountains, I need to be ready for 20-80 degrees if I'm out all 
>> day long, often before dawn. It's a pain to undo everything to get 
>> something on the inside when pressure packed item fly everywhere with the 
>> release of the leather strap. My vote is to go for the medium if you aren't 
>> sure. If I can't figure out the front load for regular riding (I've got it 
>> figured for camping/touring), I'll go with the medium.
>>
>> With abandon,
>> Patrick
>>
>> On Saturday, May 4, 2013 6:09:49 PM UTC-6, SJB wrote:
>>>
>>> I'm thinking about moving away from front loads on my commuter. 
>>> Currently, I use an Ostrich front bad on a VO front rack.
>>> Riv's small Saddlesack has a smaller capacity than my Ostrich bag, but I 
>>> think it might work. I think the medium would be way too large for my needs 
>>> (which are just lunch containers and the dress clothes I've worn during the 
>>> day.)
>>>
>>> Would any of you have pics of your Saddlesacks stuffed to capacity or 
>>> beyond? It looks like the flap closure will allow for some overfilling, but 
>>> I'd like to see how this works.
>>>
>>> Thanks
>>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Show me your overstuffed Small Sackville Saddlesack

[Matt Beebe]

I'll echo Anne's observation. The large is just easier to use than 
panniers.It's easier to open, easier to find and access things inside, 
things don't get crushed on the bottom, and with a Nitto QR it's also 
easier to remove, taking about 0.2 seconds.In addition, you can use the 
large *with* panniers for touring, and now you have serious carrying 
capacity, but you should put something on the front to balance it out.

Matt


On Monday, May 6, 2013 2:40:04 PM UTC-4, Anne Paulson wrote:
>
> Mostly I just put stuff in the Large. I don't cinch the straps; I just 
> leave them sloppily unbuckled 99% of the time, only strapping when I 
> overstuff dramatically, piling junk up . The opening on the Large is on the 
> top, and the large stays horizontal because it's on top of your rack. 
> Things don't fall out. Gravity is on my side too.  
>
>
> On Mon, May 6, 2013 at 11:19 AM, PATRICK MOORE 
> > wrote:
>
>> Well, we must agree to differ, then. I've not use the Large, so perhaps 
>> it is unique among saddlebags, but I have used the Hoss and the Sackville 
>> Medium, and, compared to these, the ease of use (for grocery shopping and 
>> about-town errands) the Banjos are better by a mile. Nothing to roll, 
>> cinch, strap, fiddle: just a wide, gaping maw that willing 
>> swallows absurd bulk. 
>>
>> I hear that Ortlieb actually has a shopping pannier that is much like a 
>> higher-quality Banjo -- basically a single, unobstructed cavity designed 
>> with the appropriate stiffening so that, when you drop a standard paper (or 
>> cloth) grocery sack) into the opening, there is nothing to obstruct its 
>> downward progress. I hear that this Ortlieb model is much like the Banjos, 
>> but better made with better materials and 3x the cost.
>>
>> At least you will admit that I have Gravity on my side!
>>
>>
>>
>> On Mon, May 6, 2013 at 12:14 PM, Anne Paulson 
>> 
>> > wrote:
>>
>>> Those Banjo Bros panniers look like my Ortlieb back roller panniers. 
>>> Good panniers, but the 10.5" by 12" opening (approximately; I just measured 
>>> it but it's not exactly rectangular as used) on the Large Saddlesack is far 
>>> bigger, I'm pretty sure. It's just huge.
>>>  
>>>
>>> On Mon, May 6, 2013 at 11:04 AM, PATRICK MOORE 
>>> 
>>> > wrote:
>>>
 But, but, but  I agree if we are talking about, say, Ortlieb 
 Packers -- those otherwise very desirable and capacious panniers with so 
 many straps, cinches, and contours that interfere with quick, simple 
 stuffing: I have two pairs (Pluses and Sportses). But for shopping and 
 quick stuffs, nothing but nothing beats my Banjo Bros Market Panniers. 
 Slam, dunk: even grossly overstuffed cloth grocery sacks with large 
 bottles 
 distorting the would-be rectangular sides sinke gratefully into the wide, 
 inviting maw of the BBMP mouths - desperately mixing metaphors here. 
 Compared to at least the Medium Saddlesack, no contest at all in the 
 Swallow All And Very Quickly category.

 I do agree about Paleo though. Or rather: all paleo and all carbs all 
 the time!

 Patrick Moore, washing his deep-fried french fries and fatty bacon -- 
 grease mingling with heavy mayo applications -- BLTs (all home made of 
 course) down with a wide selection of better beers and wines in ABQ, NM.

 On Mon, May 6, 2013 at 11:58 AM, Anne Paulson 
 
 > wrote:

> The opening on the Large is easier to use than panniers. It's easier 
> to put stuff in, and easier to get stuff out again, because the opening 
> is 
> bigger. Let's say you stop at the grocery store on the way home. You buy 
> a 
> gallon of milk, a big bag of potatoes (no paleo here!), some vegetables, 
> a 
> package of meat, some laundry detergent, some cans of tomatoes. Maybe you 
> already had a jacket and your laptop along. With panniers, you have to 
> painstaking allocate everything. With the Large Saddlesack, you just jam 
> it 
> all in, and scrooch stuff into the corners to fit everything.
>
> I like panniers for touring. I've crossed the US west to east, and 
> also south to north, touring and camping with panniers, so I know what 
> it's 
> like to use panniers every day. But for daily commuting/around 
> town/picking 
> stuff up after a ride, the Large Saddlesack is my choice.
>
>
> On Mon, May 6, 2013 at 10:17 AM, PATRICK MOORE 
> 
> > wrote:
>
>> Question about the large: I can't imagine that the L would work 
>> without a rack, but with a rack you can use panniers, which can have a 
>> capacity even greater than that of the Sackville Large. So what is the 
>> advantage of the Large over panniers, particularly since panniers are so 
>> much easier on/off?
>>
>>  
>>
>
> -- 
> -- Anne Paulson
>
> My hovercraft is full of eels 
>
> -- 
> You received this message 

Re: [RBW] Re: Interesting discussion: Riv bikes v. BQ bikes

[Matt Beebe]

What if, as an experienced rider, what you want is something that you can 
easily modify over time, because you've been riding long enough to know 
that your riding changes over the days/years/decades, your body changes, 
and furthermore your bike is just as likely to be ridden on rocky/root 
laden singletrack as on pavement, even on the way to work?

Anyway I agree with what others have pointed out;  most of us agree on far 
more than this thread would indicate (or we wouldn't be reading the RBWOB 
list). Count me among those who are just glad that we have both Jan and 
Grant's contributions to the current world of bicycling.Compared to 
mainstream of the past, they are WAY more similar than is worth arguing 
about.   BQ is an awesome rag.

Now, I'd like to propose a new rule for these kinds of threads, though I 
know it would be ignored anyway:  no more comparisons between flavors of 
automobiles and flavors of bicycles.   At best it's a ruthlessly overworked 
simile, at worst it's just a bummer.


Matt


On Wednesday, May 8, 2013 9:30:34 PM UTC-4, Jan Heine wrote:
>
>
>
> On Wednesday, May 8, 2013 4:15:52 PM UTC-7, Patrick Moore wrote:
>>
>> I will also add that Jan is wrong in his general conclusion (at least, 
>> this is the sensus verbi) that while other bikes are OK if you don't want 
>> to spend a lot of money or don't really know what you like, his preferred 
>> types are the only ones chosen by those who have both the knowledge and 
>> money to get what they really want. Not proven!
>>
>> I am sorry about the misunderstanding. What I was trying to say is this: 
> If you know what you want, then a bike optimized specifically for your 
> preferences will usually be superior to a "jack-of-all-trades" that is 
> designed to work with many configurations.
>
> What that configuration is depends on the rider and their preferences. For 
> example, if you ride a lot out of the saddle, a front load usually is 
> superior as it doesn't have the "tail wagging the dog" feel. If you like to 
> ride no-hands at relatively low speeds, a rear load is better, because a 
> front load needs a certain speed to become stable no-hands. And then there 
> are simply preferences of what you like a bike to feel like.
>
> Jan Heine
> Editor
> Bicycle Quarterly
> www.bikequarterly.com
>
> Follow our blog at www.janheine.com 
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Large SaddleSack Load and Anchor Questions

[Matt Beebe]

I have an SS Large on my main rig, but I have never lashed it down, it just 
rides freely on top of the rack.   I use a Nitto QR with it, so it's really 
easy to take off if I want to. The only reason you need the rack there 
is for a little extra support for the bag.The bag doesn't sway at all 
as long as the rack is supporting it from beneath. Heavily loaded or 
empty, it's fine.  I also lay my bike down a lot when stopped, 
sometimes fully loaded, since it doesn't have a kickstand.No problems 
with the bag, it meets the ground about the same time as the handlebars.

Enjoy the Large Saddlesack, you will love it.


Matt



On Sunday, May 12, 2013 1:55:01 AM UTC-4, stonehog wrote:
>
> I'll second the zip-tie advice.  I have the medium and just use 2 zip-ties 
> to steady it on the rear of the bag at the rack.
>
> Brian
> Seattle, WA
>
>
> On Sat, May 11, 2013 at 10:52 PM, Anne Paulson 
> 
> > wrote:
>
>> My Large Saddlesack is permanently on my bike. I was using zipties to 
>> attach bag to rack, but some people say that the zipties damage the bag, so 
>> currently it's only attached to the saddle, and it rests on the rack. I 
>> need to figure out some new attachment solution.
>>
>> I don't understand why one would use Irish straps to attach bag to rack. 
>> Irish straps are great, but where do you use them and doesn't it block the 
>> handy big opening? 
>>
>> I take my bike on fire roads frequently. Those fire roads are either 
>> steep themselves, or found at the top of steep paved roads. So I go up and 
>> down steep roads all the time; the Atlantis and Saddlesack handle 
>> flawlessly. Weight up high has not proved to be a problem for me.
>>
>>
>> On Sat, May 11, 2013 at 10:35 PM, Mike > >wrote:
>>
>>> Patrick, once you get your large SS be sure to post pictures and 
>>> impressions. I'm curious as to how the bikes perform with those bags out in 
>>> the wild. On the one hand it puts a lot of weight up high but perhaps this 
>>> isn't an issue. The bags are beautiful for sure and easy to access. I 
>>> totally regret selling my medium SS a few years back. I'll say this. The 
>>> medium bag was fine unanchored but was excellent when attached to a Nitto 
>>> Top Rack as it stayed in place. I imagine the large ones attached to a rack 
>>> with zip ties or straps is similar. 
>>>
>>> I'm hoping to treat myself to a replacement Sackville saddlebag later 
>>> this year and am considering going with the large. 
>>>
>>> --mike
>>>  
>>> -- 
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>>>  
>>>  
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>> -- 
>> -- Anne Paulson
>>
>> My hovercraft is full of eels 
>>
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>>  
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>
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Re: [RBW] Long commute in the PNW- advice?

[Matt Beebe]

Great suggestions above.  I also go 15 miles each way for work, and have 
been doing it for years. I don't have a shower at work, but find that I 
don't need one.I shower before I leave for work and that is sufficient. 
  Wool helps.(I don't work at a hospital, and figure that, if I can't 
show up to WORK with a little sweat on my back, I don't know what the world 
has come to anyway).

The best advice I can add is to map every possible way to bicycle to work, 
and try each of them out.   Eventually you find the best way (not always 
the shortest) and it's also good to have alternatives to switch things up a 
little.

I think you'll enjoy your commute.  I know that for me, it is often the 
best part of the day, even in the New England winter, and I *do* like my 
job :)


Matt

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[RBW] Re: Long commute in the PNW- advice?

[Matt Beebe]

Since you already have done a daily 8-mile commute, I think you'll be fine 
on the 30 mile commute and might not even find it all that different. I 
wouldn't over-think the bike setup too much, as the setup will kind of 
congeal over time.   But, as far as addressing technical failures, it's 
good to carry some spare chain links and a chain tool, patch kit, spare 
tube (and a pump of course), and a multi-tool.With those you should be 
good to go.I've had shifter cables snap, but you can still pedal home 
like that, whereas broken chains, though rare, mean walking and coasting 
down the occasional hill if you don't have a chain tool or a spare link.

For clothing, I agree with what Deacon Patrick says about breathability 
being the key.   You can get by in temps down to zero without any 
windbreaker at all, just layering sweaters and sweatshirts.   As much wool 
as you can when it's wet out.

Winter chews through all kinds of bike parts around here, with all the salt 
they dump on the roads.Fenders help but still you have to hose your 
bike off (from an indoor-spigot since it's freezing out) every day when you 
get home.




On Tuesday, May 14, 2013 7:11:13 PM UTC-4, Tim Tetrault wrote:
>
> Thanks all. I commute now, but my round trip is 8 miles, didn't mean to 
> give off the impression I was just starting. I feel as though I'm in for a 
> rude awakening, though, with over triple the mileage each way. Do you all 
> have any gear recommendations that are your "non-negotiables"? 
>
> Brian, your Hunq looks comfy. Thanks for the tips. 
>
> I am on Schwalbe Mara Supremes right now but was thinking perhaps going to 
> a Jack Brown (the kevlar version) to maybe give myself a couple more MPH 
> than the 35mms/heavier tires. Seattle's streets can be pretty rough 
> compared to some of the more manicured streets I've been on in the 'burbs 
> and in the midwest. 
>
> What about a good wheelset to survive the gritty winters? Right now I am 
> running Veloc Dyads with LX hubs, 36 spoke- I wonder once they are run 
> through I should consider a 32 spoke wheel? Any suggestions?
>
> Jan Heine has written on how handlebar bags protect your legs from rain, 
> anyone else care to comment. I know Velo Orange is set to come out with a 
> larger bag (more affordable than the Berthouds) I am mostly discouraged 
> about having a potential technical failure in the winter, and just freezing 
> and getting soaked there and back and having to do it again the next 
> morning. It likely won't pay enough to offset the cost of driving very much 
> and with us hitting the 400ppm CO2 mark this month I'm feeling driven to 
> bike AMAP. 
>
> On Monday, May 13, 2013 5:17:22 PM UTC-7, Tim Tetrault wrote:
>>
>> Hey Gang-
>>
>> I'm contemplating a long commute in the Seattle area- 15 miles each way 
>> (long for me anyway) on my Hilborne. Any advice on handling the day in day 
>> out grind of this?
>>
>> Ideas could include: 
>>
>> Food management/tiring out after long day
>> reasonable raingear for the price (knowing I will be exposed for a 
>> soaking)
>> time management tips I may have not considered
>>
>> Thanks-
>>
>> Tim
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: New long reach TRP Brakes

[Matt Beebe]

It's funny, but having been a Rivendell user for so long, I don't consider 
those long reach*, but medium or standard.In the past few of years 
(since they've been out), my idea of long reach goes out to like 72mm or 
whatever the Tektro Silvers do.



*Yes, I know 57mm reach brakes had come to be known as "long reach" back in 
the dark ages before Rivendell brought us blessed light.   :)



On Friday, May 17, 2013 10:31:46 AM UTC-4, Rick wrote:
>
> in case you happen to be in the "gravel market."
>  
>
> http://hampsten.blogspot.com/2013/05/cute-as-sack-of-kittens-new-brakes.html
>

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[RBW] Re: We're all in trouble

[Matt Beebe]

Fortunately, the way many Rivs are set up (bags, racks, fenders, upright 
bars, random trinkets twined on here and there) it would look wrong to wear 
lycra on them.   I know I sure as hell would feel weird wearing lycra.



On Friday, May 24, 2013 2:24:18 AM UTC-4, James Warren wrote:
>
>
>
> http://road.cc/content/news/84343-lack-lycra-lout-cyclist-not-wearing-appropriate-clothing-stopped-suspicion-bike
>
>
>
> James Warren
> jimcw...@earthlink.net 
>
> - 700x55
>
>
>
>
>  
>

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[RBW] Re: Quickbeam vs. Simpleone: What's the difference?

[Matt Beebe]

Congratulations on picking up such a neat bike.  I'll add to the quotes 
StatrixBob provided, with the description below which is from the Riv site, 
and a post here on the ROB by Grant about the differences below that. 
The HTA on the QB is 72.5 if you go by the geometry chart, and I think the 
tubing may have been slightly lighter.

"Rear Spacing: 120mm. A good width for a single-speed.

Tubing: Butted CrMo steel. The butts are 0.9, the bellies, 0.6, the seat 
stays are 0.9, so are the chainstays, and the fork is 1.1 x 0.8. If those 
numbers mean nothing to you, rest assured that they mean something to 
me/Grant, and they are good.

Top tube upslope: 2-degrees.

Other geologicametrical features: Like all of our bikes, the SimpleOne has 
a relatively shallow seat tube angle (72-deg in most sizes), and moderate 
head tube (also 72-deg). The BB drop is 73 when the wheel is centered in 
the rear dropout. This is a hair higher than our normal frames, but 
accounts for the possibility of a fixed gear and the higher clearance 
requires. And yet, it is still low-to-medium by industry standards."

>From a post here by Grant:

"On the plus side: The clearance is more than on the QB. The chainstays 
are longer. it has a kickstand plate. The fork crown is swirly-girly. 
The rear dropouts are the same (our own) model as the Q's and the 
angle is the same, so it should be doublable with the pads still one 
the rim. But we're selling it as a ONE speed frame, and what you do 
with it is up to you. We have QB cranks, though. The fork rake is 
delightful. It's not a crafty artisanal frame in the megabuck showy 
sense, but some details could certainly shame some frames that cost 
thrice as much. I'm looking forward to mine. "



On Thursday, May 30, 2013 12:35:36 PM UTC-4, Tim W wrote:
>
> I can't tell if these are the exact same frame built different places or 
> what?
>
> Does anyone know what is different between the two, if anything?
>
> Thanks,
> Tim
>  

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[RBW] Re: My Quick"Bee"m

[Matt Beebe]

Fenders, lighting, racked and bagged.   Great setup on the beam.   



On Thursday, May 30, 2013 11:56:21 PM UTC-4, Eric Norris wrote:
>
> Enjoy:
>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/campyonlyguy/8898125228/# 
>
> --Eric
> campyo...@me.com 
> www.campyonly.com
> www.wheelsnorth.org
> Blog: http://campyonlyguy.blogspot.com
> Twitter: @campyonlyguy
>  
>

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[RBW] Re: The Perfect Stem, Slightly OT

[Matt Beebe]

Salsa used to make a steel stem called the CroMoto, which was a nice quill 
chromoly stem with faceplate.It looked good and was available in a 
variety of angles/lengths. But then, as with so many good things in the 
marketplace, production was abruptly ceased.Worse is better.   I guess 
Salsa made them was in 2010, but that was followed almost immediately by a 
recall, citing risk of catastrophic failure, and all the stems were 
destroyed (except perhaps for those owned by people with nothing to live 
for).  You might be able to find a used one from earlier batches if you 
really wanted to.

On the other hand, regarding faceplate stem designs in general, Jan Heine 
makes a good point in a recent post on his 
blog,
 
describing some often-overlooked disadvantages of faceplate stems.For 
example, they do not contact the bar evenly, and so add hotspots to the 
already knurled aluminum of a presumably lightweight handlebar, among other 
drawbacks.


Matt


On Tuesday, May 28, 2013 8:09:04 AM UTC-4, Michael Hechmer wrote:
>
> As I contemplate either simply getting a taller stem or Alba bars & stem 
> for my wife's bike I ask myself why doesn't someone make a stem that 
> combines the best of quill & ahead stems?  Why can't I have a quill stem 
> with a removable faceplate that would allow me to try a different stem 
> without removing the beautiful tape I just put on the bike to start the 
> season?  Not to mention all the brake and derailler cables hung from the 
> bars.
>
> Michael
>

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[RBW] Re: Oiling a Select saddle

[Matt Beebe]

There is no consistent frequency for leather treatment, since the condition 
of the leather depends on so many variables.   The foremost consideration 
is probably how often you ride your bike, but also whether your bike spends 
a lot of time outdoors, climate, etc. I think the best policy is to 
just go by the appearance of the leather.When it starts to appear dry 
(the color/texture begins to look mottled, and the leather has no 'pull up' 
or does not discolor at all when you press on it, it may be time for a 
little sparing treatment.  Also, if you have an old saddle and no 
proofide (or ran out), you can make your own conditioner with beeswax and 
vegetable oil.

Matt



On Monday, June 3, 2013 3:40:16 PM UTC-4, Minh wrote:
>
> maybe to extend joes question, when should you use proofide, I have a 10 
> year old, 6 year old and 3 year old (berthoud) and have neglected to 
> proofide any of them. I do get caught in the rain every now and then. 
> Should I. E doing it on a regular basis?
>
> And joe having seen a select I was wondering about that too, are you 
> supposed to proofide it first thing after taking it out of the box?  Wait 
> until a few rides?
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: New to Albas after drops/staches...did this happen to you?

[Matt Beebe]

I remember reading in the blug or maybe RR that some Rivendell models might 
have been designed with slacker ST angles than ~72, except that there is a 
point where front derailleurs become difficult or impossible to fit, due to 
the angle of incidence between the chainstay and seattube.I thought 
that may have been the reason why the Rosco Bubbe did not have a front 
derailleur option -   because the ST angle was less than 71 degrees or 
whatever that threshold is. In any case, I am pretty sure Rivs are 
designed to have as slack a seat tube angle as possible while still 
allowing their versatile/all-purpose philosophy. 


Matt


On Wednesday, June 19, 2013 5:01:44 PM UTC-4, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> This is an interesting phenomenon. I've often thought about it, since I 
> find that I need a certain amount of bend at the hips to feel comfortable 
> when pedaling, and I can't get that with a steepish standard seat tube and 
> high and close bars. I notice that Dutch city bikes and English roadsters 
> have very slack seat tube angles, steeper than the standard 71 and upward 
> range.
>
> I wonder what the muscular use/power output relationship is to saddle 
> setback (ie, behind crank axle) as well as of bend at the hips -- ie, if 
> you have two discrete and separate factors, namely hip behind crank axle 
> and bend at hip, and what the effect of each separately is?
>
> On Tue, Jun 18, 2013 at 5:17 PM, blakcloud 
> > wrote:
>
>> I had a similar feeling when I went from a drop bar to Alba's. I felt 
>> like I wanted to sit further back and push the pedals if that makes sense. 
>> KOPS is something I totally disregard, place your saddle where it feels 
>> comfortable. In the end I stopped using the Alba's because the position was 
>> too upright and I wanted a slightly more aggressive position. The Alba's 
>> are going on the wife's Betty Foy if it ever arrives, so they weren't a 
>> total waste.  
>>
>> On Monday, June 17, 2013 8:08:09 PM UTC-4, Michael wrote:
>>>
>>> Sitting totally upright on Albas with my saddle in the ususal KOPS 
>>> position that I had with 'staches and drops, I feel like my saddle has 
>>> moved forward, but it hasn't (I checked).
>>> Feels like I am out in front of the pedals now when pedaling -  not 
>>> directly over them like I felt with the low drops position with KOPS. I 
>>> guess when you move your weight around to a different position a lot 
>>> changes.
>>>  
>>> Nothing bad, I'll just move the saddle back if I feel the need. But for 
>>> now keeping the saddle the same as long as nothing hurts.
>>> Just a curious thing.
>>>  
>>> Did you feel this when you switched to totally upright after being used 
>>> to a low drops position?
>>>  
>>> I am enjoying the bolt upright position a lot. Nice views. No neck/hand 
>>> issues either so far. I hope it will make it more comfy to wear layers in 
>>> the winter.
>>> With drops, clothes get scrunched between my belly and thighs. Upright 
>>> really opens up the torso. Its a nice feeling.
>>>  
>>>  
>>>  
>>>  
>>>  
>>>
>>  -- 
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>>  
>>  
>>
>
>
>
> -- 
>
> http://resumespecialties.com/index.html
> patric...@resumespecialties.com 
>
> Albuquerque, NM
>  

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[RBW] Re: DIY 40-26 questions

[Matt Beebe]

Definitely do it.Setting the limit screw works just fine, and you can 
get used to any nuances it introduces to shifting. I have been using 
the Riv bash guard crank on all my bikes for years now and love it.For 
a while it was just the "quickbeam crank" and I would just run the stock 
40/32 until the aluminum rings needed replacing. I never use the big 
ring on triples either, and on my touring rig I don't even need a 40t ring, 
I get by with a 36.I can't hit all 8 cogs with both chainrings though;  
certainly not with the granny anyway-  the chain would not be psyched on 
the outer cogs.

Matt


On Wednesday, June 19, 2013 3:21:23 PM UTC-4, Jay in Tel Aviv wrote:
>
> I'm intrigued by Grant's idea of 40-26 front gearing for my Sam Hillborne, 
> but Riv is out of their wide-low cranks and there's actually nothing wrong 
> with Sugino triple that's on there now. So I was wondering if it would be 
> possible to just replace the middle ring with a 40, and either replace the 
> outer ring with a bash guard or just leave it as is. Would the Tiagra 
> triple derailler I have on there work well with this configuration? 
> Obviously I could reset the limit screw to restrict its range to the inner 
> and middle rings. But could I also lower the mounting position to match the 
> middle ring? Or would the outer ring be in the way?
>
> If it works, this would be a neat way to try out wide-low gearing for the 
> price of 1 chain ring. Thoughts?
>
> Jay
>
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: New to Albas after drops/staches...did this happen to you?

[Matt Beebe]

Right,  I have an 85 stumpjumper, and to look at it side on, it appears to 
have about 0cm of drop...  I'm sure it's more like ~4cm really, but 
combined with the fact that it has 46cm chainstays, it looks darn near 
zero.   The angle of incidence btw chainstay/ST is certainly none too 
acute despite the 70cm ST angle.

Matt


On Wednesday, June 19, 2013 6:48:50 PM UTC-4, Garth wrote:
>
>
> The original Stumpjumpers had a ST angle of 70 degrees and it used 
> standard triple front deraillers. I never had an issue using any FD with 
> it. So, it's not that, but* combined *with a *deep drop BB* that Riv 
> prefers, now we have an issue !  
>
>
> On Wednesday, June 19, 2013 5:37:30 PM UTC-4, Matt Beebe wrote:
>>
>> I remember reading in the blug or maybe RR that some Rivendell models 
>> might have been designed with slacker ST angles than ~72, except that there 
>> is a point where front derailleurs become difficult or impossible to fit, 
>> due to the angle of incidence between the chainstay and seattube.I 
>> thought that may have been the reason why the Rosco Bubbe did not have a 
>> front derailleur option -   because the ST angle was less than 71 degrees 
>> or whatever that threshold is. In any case, I am pretty sure Rivs are 
>> designed to have as slack a seat tube angle as possible while still 
>> allowing their versatile/all-purpose philosophy. 
>>
>>
>> Matt
>>
>>
>> On Wednesday, June 19, 2013 5:01:44 PM UTC-4, Patrick Moore wrote:
>>>
>>> This is an interesting phenomenon. I've often thought about it, since I 
>>> find that I need a certain amount of bend at the hips to feel comfortable 
>>> when pedaling, and I can't get that with a steepish standard seat tube and 
>>> high and close bars. I notice that Dutch city bikes and English roadsters 
>>> have very slack seat tube angles, steeper than the standard 71 and upward 
>>> range.
>>>
>>> I wonder what the muscular use/power output relationship is to saddle 
>>> setback (ie, behind crank axle) as well as of bend at the hips -- ie, if 
>>> you have two discrete and separate factors, namely hip behind crank axle 
>>> and bend at hip, and what the effect of each separately is?
>>>
>>> On Tue, Jun 18, 2013 at 5:17 PM, blakcloud  wrote:
>>>
>>>> I had a similar feeling when I went from a drop bar to Alba's. I felt 
>>>> like I wanted to sit further back and push the pedals if that makes sense. 
>>>> KOPS is something I totally disregard, place your saddle where it feels 
>>>> comfortable. In the end I stopped using the Alba's because the position 
>>>> was 
>>>> too upright and I wanted a slightly more aggressive position. The Alba's 
>>>> are going on the wife's Betty Foy if it ever arrives, so they weren't a 
>>>> total waste.  
>>>>
>>>> On Monday, June 17, 2013 8:08:09 PM UTC-4, Michael wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> Sitting totally upright on Albas with my saddle in the ususal KOPS 
>>>>> position that I had with 'staches and drops, I feel like my saddle has 
>>>>> moved forward, but it hasn't (I checked).
>>>>> Feels like I am out in front of the pedals now when pedaling -  not 
>>>>> directly over them like I felt with the low drops position with KOPS. I 
>>>>> guess when you move your weight around to a different position a lot 
>>>>> changes.
>>>>>  
>>>>> Nothing bad, I'll just move the saddle back if I feel the need. But 
>>>>> for now keeping the saddle the same as long as nothing hurts.
>>>>> Just a curious thing.
>>>>>  
>>>>> Did you feel this when you switched to totally upright after being 
>>>>> used to a low drops position?
>>>>>  
>>>>> I am enjoying the bolt upright position a lot. Nice views. No 
>>>>> neck/hand issues either so far. I hope it will make it more comfy to wear 
>>>>> layers in the winter.
>>>>> With drops, clothes get scrunched between my belly and thighs. Upright 
>>>>> really opens up the torso. Its a nice feeling.
>>>>>  
>>>>>  
>>>>>  
>>>>>  
>>>>>  
>>>>>
>>>>  -- 
>>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google 
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>>>>  
>>>>  
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> -- 
>>>
>>> http://resumespecialties.com/index.html
>>> patric...@resumespecialties.com
>>>
>>> Albuquerque, NM
>>>  
>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: New to Albas after drops/staches...did this happen to you?

[Matt Beebe]

Right,  to look at an '80s stumpjumper side on, it appears to have about 
0cm of drop...  I'm sure it's more like ~4cm really which is more typical 
for 26" wheeled bikes, but combined with the fact that it has 46cm 
chainstays, it looks darn near zero.   The angle of incidence btw 
chainstay/ST is certainly none too acute despite the 70deg ST angle.

Matt

On Wednesday, June 19, 2013 6:48:50 PM UTC-4, Garth wrote:
>
>
> The original Stumpjumpers had a ST angle of 70 degrees and it used 
> standard triple front deraillers. I never had an issue using any FD with 
> it. So, it's not that, but* combined *with a *deep drop BB* that Riv 
> prefers, now we have an issue !  
>
>
> On Wednesday, June 19, 2013 5:37:30 PM UTC-4, Matt Beebe wrote:
>>
>> I remember reading in the blug or maybe RR that some Rivendell models 
>> might have been designed with slacker ST angles than ~72, except that there 
>> is a point where front derailleurs become difficult or impossible to fit, 
>> due to the angle of incidence between the chainstay and seattube.I 
>> thought that may have been the reason why the Rosco Bubbe did not have a 
>> front derailleur option -   because the ST angle was less than 71 degrees 
>> or whatever that threshold is. In any case, I am pretty sure Rivs are 
>> designed to have as slack a seat tube angle as possible while still 
>> allowing their versatile/all-purpose philosophy. 
>>
>>
>> Matt
>>
>>
>> On Wednesday, June 19, 2013 5:01:44 PM UTC-4, Patrick Moore wrote:
>>>
>>> This is an interesting phenomenon. I've often thought about it, since I 
>>> find that I need a certain amount of bend at the hips to feel comfortable 
>>> when pedaling, and I can't get that with a steepish standard seat tube and 
>>> high and close bars. I notice that Dutch city bikes and English roadsters 
>>> have very slack seat tube angles, steeper than the standard 71 and upward 
>>> range.
>>>
>>> I wonder what the muscular use/power output relationship is to saddle 
>>> setback (ie, behind crank axle) as well as of bend at the hips -- ie, if 
>>> you have two discrete and separate factors, namely hip behind crank axle 
>>> and bend at hip, and what the effect of each separately is?
>>>
>>> On Tue, Jun 18, 2013 at 5:17 PM, blakcloud  wrote:
>>>
>>>> I had a similar feeling when I went from a drop bar to Alba's. I felt 
>>>> like I wanted to sit further back and push the pedals if that makes sense. 
>>>> KOPS is something I totally disregard, place your saddle where it feels 
>>>> comfortable. In the end I stopped using the Alba's because the position 
>>>> was 
>>>> too upright and I wanted a slightly more aggressive position. The Alba's 
>>>> are going on the wife's Betty Foy if it ever arrives, so they weren't a 
>>>> total waste.  
>>>>
>>>> On Monday, June 17, 2013 8:08:09 PM UTC-4, Michael wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> Sitting totally upright on Albas with my saddle in the ususal KOPS 
>>>>> position that I had with 'staches and drops, I feel like my saddle has 
>>>>> moved forward, but it hasn't (I checked).
>>>>> Feels like I am out in front of the pedals now when pedaling -  not 
>>>>> directly over them like I felt with the low drops position with KOPS. I 
>>>>> guess when you move your weight around to a different position a lot 
>>>>> changes.
>>>>>  
>>>>> Nothing bad, I'll just move the saddle back if I feel the need. But 
>>>>> for now keeping the saddle the same as long as nothing hurts.
>>>>> Just a curious thing.
>>>>>  
>>>>> Did you feel this when you switched to totally upright after being 
>>>>> used to a low drops position?
>>>>>  
>>>>> I am enjoying the bolt upright position a lot. Nice views. No 
>>>>> neck/hand issues either so far. I hope it will make it more comfy to wear 
>>>>> layers in the winter.
>>>>> With drops, clothes get scrunched between my belly and thighs. Upright 
>>>>> really opens up the torso. Its a nice feeling.
>>>>>  
>>>>>  
>>>>>  
>>>>>  
>>>>>  
>>>>>
>>>>  -- 
>>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google 
>>>> Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
>&g

[RBW] Re: Get on your bike or the rise of the unracer

[Matt Beebe]

Loved it!



On Friday, June 21, 2013 3:54:45 PM UTC-4, bwphoto wrote:
>
>
> I ran across this from the London Cyclist a great example of promoting the 
> "unracer" or just riding. Admittedly it does take place during a "race" but 
> the end tells it all. Here's the link: 
> http://ibikelondon.blogspot.com/2013/06/get-on-your-bike.html
>

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[RBW] Re: Carradice

[Matt Beebe]

Carradice has outstanding customer service. They've always been 
way-above-and-beyond helpful whenever I've contacted them about minor stuff 
with old bags (issues that had nothing to do with quality).   They really 
do stand behind their goods.

As for quick-release capability, I like the Nitto saddlebag QR that Riv 
sells along with a regular rack or Mark's rack.I have this setup on two 
different bikes and have never had a problem with it.

Matt


On Saturday, June 22, 2013 12:29:57 AM UTC-4, Jay in Tel Aviv wrote:
>
> I commute with a Super C saddle bag and quick release Bagman. I've had 
> this setup for a few years and it works well for me, but I needed a 
> convenient way to use the bag on my 2nd bike. So I got a 2nd Bagman (clamp 
> only) which I now use with a rear rack on the Riv, and moved the 1st Bagman 
> to my Brompton. 
>
> Long story short, a couple months ago one of the pins that activates the 
> Q/R fell out on the Riv bagman. Marguerite at Carradice kindly sent me 2 
> replacements, the second of which fell off last week. I updated Margeurite 
> asking what my options were - Kelly's sale had me thinking about SQR as an 
> alternative. I started checking prices on the web (Wiggle) when Marguerite 
> replied that a replacement clamp is on its way.
>
> Nice.
>
> Jay
>

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[RBW] New rig and Sunday afternoon ride

[Matt Beebe]

Hi All,

A couple years ago Rivendell mentioned in their mailing list update that 
their custom queue had gotten very short. This certainly planted a 
thought in my mind and after pondering for a while, being a huge fan of all 
bikes Rivendell, I decided to order my first custom from them, an 
all-rounder.   If you are on the fence about going to Rivendell for a 
custom (or any bike), I advise going for it.   Let's just say they go way, 
WAY above and beyond to help you find what you are looking for.

Anyway I got it this past week and am blown away, I could not be more 
psyched on this thing.   I built it up in an craze of excitement and have 
been riding it more or less nonstop, it's a blast.   

Here are some pictures from the local woods this past Sunday afternoon.   
The bike rides fantastically, comfortable and natural feeling.   It is like 
a wolf in sheep's clothing in a way-  in addition to the signature 
rivendell good looks and regalness, it handles the trails like it was 
nothing (except fun of course!)

https://www.flickr.com/photos/43029278@N07/sets/72157634302421200/


Happy riding everyone

Matt 

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[RBW] Re: New rig and Sunday afternoon ride

[Matt Beebe]

Hi Patrick,

I have a few rivendell bikes already, and can't really say that any of them 
fall short in any way;  they're all great! With a custom, I suppose one 
could say you get marginal returns performance-wise, over their standard 
models-   I wouldn't say that about this bike, though, because it is 
clearly imbued with some kind of magic/wizardry-  but a person could 
certainly see it that way.So you have to really be into their bikes to 
go for one. A custom does have its extra bells and whistles, and 
intangible niftyness I think.In addition to being custom designed by 
Grant, they are built by Mark Nobillette and painted by Joe Bell, for 
example, if that is worth something to you.   I got to spec my own paint 
color (not that you couldn't with another model, too) by mixing together 
some oil paints and sending that and a fork from another bike to Joe Bell 
for inspiration (I also got to talk on the phone with Joe Bell, which was 
awesome).   He hit the bullseye on the color in my opinion, it is the 
perfect hue for a bicycle.As far as ordering from Rivendell goes, they 
are incredibly nice and understanding to deal with and talk to, all of 
them.   I was lucky enough to visit their HQ at the end of a long tour a 
few years ago, and I remember that they were all so cool (didn't get to 
meet Mark that time though unfortunately), and they even bought me lunch!   
RBW HQ is such a neat place, just bikes and bags everywhere, awesome 
(epic!) photographs on the walls, tons of bikeage in the air.  I've seen 
your Hunqapillar (wicked nice!), and ride photos, and have to say I am 
totally jealous of your stomping grounds.Looks like some serious fun.

Matt




On Monday, June 24, 2013 10:34:11 AM UTC-4, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> Fantastic, Matt! I'd love to hear about your custom experience (possible 
> long term interest, mostly curiosity, as I have 5 other people to 
> eventually get Riv's for before I would even consider pulling the trigger 
> on a custom). What Riv's have you owned/ridden pre custom? What made you 
> desire a custom that they weren't meeting? How did that get met in the 
> custom? When you say Riv went WAY above and beyond, what were you looking 
> for that they helped you find?
>
> I am delighted on my Hunqapillar and can't imagine a custom being anything 
> but costing more money to do pretty much the same thing. Still, it's fun to 
> play with the possibilities.
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>
> On Monday, June 24, 2013 6:42:59 AM UTC-6, Matt Beebe wrote:
>>
>> Hi All,
>>
>> A couple years ago Rivendell mentioned in their mailing list update that 
>> their custom queue had gotten very short. This certainly planted a 
>> thought in my mind and after pondering for a while, being a huge fan of all 
>> bikes Rivendell, I decided to order my first custom from them, an 
>> all-rounder.   If you are on the fence about going to Rivendell for a 
>> custom (or any bike), I advise going for it.   Let's just say they go way, 
>> WAY above and beyond to help you find what you are looking for.
>>
>> Anyway I got it this past week and am blown away, I could not be more 
>> psyched on this thing.   I built it up in an craze of excitement and have 
>> been riding it more or less nonstop, it's a blast.   
>>
>> Here are some pictures from the local woods this past Sunday afternoon.   
>> The bike rides fantastically, comfortable and natural feeling.   It is like 
>> a wolf in sheep's clothing in a way-  in addition to the signature 
>> rivendell good looks and regalness, it handles the trails like it was 
>> nothing (except fun of course!)
>>
>> https://www.flickr.com/photos/43029278@N07/sets/72157634302421200/
>>
>>
>> Happy riding everyone
>>
>> Matt 
>
>

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Re: [RBW] New rig and Sunday afternoon ride

[Matt Beebe]

Hi Patrick (Moore),

Thanks!   I've long admired your two Riv customs, and the way you have 
written about them says a lot about how great they are.The tires I have 
on this bike are Schwalbe 700x47 Marathons (measure more like 43 or 
44mm)-they are not new, in fact, I've been riding the heck out of these 
tires for over a year now, and they still have the little nubs on them from 
the molding process... at this rate they are going to last forever (I love 
schwalbe for that).For other parts, the rims are Velocity Dyads, hubs 
are White Industries and Phil Wood, Tektro cantis, mechs are shimano XTR 
front and back, Rivendell guard crank, Tange BB, KMC chain, IRD 
ball/rollerbearing headset (that Riv sells) and pretty much Nitto or 
Shimano everything else that I forgot.

Matt


On Monday, June 24, 2013 11:32:22 AM UTC-4, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> Matt: Congratulations. That's a bike and a build after my own heart.
>
> Can you give build particulars? Tires, in particular?
>
> On Mon, Jun 24, 2013 at 6:42 AM, Matt Beebe 
> > wrote:
>
>> Hi All,
>>
>> A couple years ago Rivendell mentioned in their mailing list update that 
>> their custom queue had gotten very short. This certainly planted a 
>> thought in my mind and after pondering for a while, being a huge fan of all 
>> bikes Rivendell, I decided to order my first custom from them, an 
>> all-rounder.   If you are on the fence about going to Rivendell for a 
>> custom (or any bike), I advise going for it.   Let's just say they go way, 
>> WAY above and beyond to help you find what you are looking for.
>>
>> Anyway I got it this past week and am blown away, I could not be more 
>> psyched on this thing.   I built it up in an craze of excitement and have 
>> been riding it more or less nonstop, it's a blast.   
>>
>> Here are some pictures from the local woods this past Sunday afternoon.   
>> The bike rides fantastically, comfortable and natural feeling.   It is like 
>> a wolf in sheep's clothing in a way-  in addition to the signature 
>> rivendell good looks and regalness, it handles the trails like it was 
>> nothing (except fun of course!)
>>
>> https://www.flickr.com/photos/43029278@N07/sets/72157634302421200/
>>
>>
>> Happy riding everyone
>>
>> Matt 
>>
>> -- 
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>> .
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>>  
>>  
>>
>
>
>
> -- 
>
> http://resumespecialties.com/index.html
> patric...@resumespecialties.com 
> http://www.linkedin.com/in/patrickmooreresumespec/
>
>
> Albuquerque, NM
>  

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Re: [RBW] New rig and Sunday afternoon ride

[Matt Beebe]

Oh and the pedals are Wellgos, LU868.   I love these pedals, you could ride 
barefoot if you wanted to and be totally comfortable on them.



On Monday, June 24, 2013 11:32:22 AM UTC-4, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> Matt: Congratulations. That's a bike and a build after my own heart.
>
> Can you give build particulars? Tires, in particular?
>
> On Mon, Jun 24, 2013 at 6:42 AM, Matt Beebe 
> > wrote:
>
>> Hi All,
>>
>> A couple years ago Rivendell mentioned in their mailing list update that 
>> their custom queue had gotten very short. This certainly planted a 
>> thought in my mind and after pondering for a while, being a huge fan of all 
>> bikes Rivendell, I decided to order my first custom from them, an 
>> all-rounder.   If you are on the fence about going to Rivendell for a 
>> custom (or any bike), I advise going for it.   Let's just say they go way, 
>> WAY above and beyond to help you find what you are looking for.
>>
>> Anyway I got it this past week and am blown away, I could not be more 
>> psyched on this thing.   I built it up in an craze of excitement and have 
>> been riding it more or less nonstop, it's a blast.   
>>
>> Here are some pictures from the local woods this past Sunday afternoon.   
>> The bike rides fantastically, comfortable and natural feeling.   It is like 
>> a wolf in sheep's clothing in a way-  in addition to the signature 
>> rivendell good looks and regalness, it handles the trails like it was 
>> nothing (except fun of course!)
>>
>> https://www.flickr.com/photos/43029278@N07/sets/72157634302421200/
>>
>>
>> Happy riding everyone
>>
>> Matt 
>>
>> -- 
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>> "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
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>> email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com .
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>> .
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>>  
>>  
>>
>
>
>
> -- 
>
> http://resumespecialties.com/index.html
> patric...@resumespecialties.com 
> http://www.linkedin.com/in/patrickmooreresumespec/
>
>
> Albuquerque, NM
>  

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[RBW] Re: 50K on a Sunday morning

[Matt Beebe]

Looks like a beautiful ride, the kinda solo excursion that can heal the 
soul.So jealous of those mountains and wide open spaces.


On Sunday, June 23, 2013 4:50:48 PM UTC-4, cyclot...@gmail.com wrote:
>
> Absolutely perfect weather today, so I had to jump on the opportunity to 
> get out and about. I rode the skinny-tired bike and went over hill and 
> dale. Enjoyed every one of the ride's180 minutes.
>
> SoCal has some pretty good riding!
>
> PTPIH: http://www.flickr.com/photos/cyclotourist/sets/72157634290998628
>
> Cheers,
> David
>
>  

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[RBW] Re: New rig and Sunday afternoon ride

[Matt Beebe]

Hi Mike,

A tour to mark ten years is an excellent plan :)I'd love to see some 
pics of your Curt Goodrich A/R. About the ST decal, yes it's an option, 
you can request wrap-around or diamond style.They even have different 
outline colors to choose from.

Matt



On Tuesday, June 25, 2013 7:49:40 PM UTC-4, M D Smith wrote:
>
> Very nice All-rounder! 
>
> I have custom (Curt-built) A/R as well (26" wheels, though) and am pleased 
> as punch with it.  How exciting to have a future old friend and traveling 
> companion!
>
> I was just looking at my records and I ordered it in January of '03 and it 
> was delivered at the end of July '04.  It seemed like an eternity and I 
> probably purchased parts for three complete bikes in that time...  (Wow, I 
> can't believe it's been that long.  I guess I have to start planning a 10 
> year anniversary tour for next summer!)
>
> One thing I notice about your bike is that it has the diamond shaped "old 
> style" decal on the seat tube rather than the more recent "wrapped all the 
> way around" rectangle.  Was this an option?  Are they moving back to the 
> older style?  Just curious.  I was always fond of the older diamond style 
> and it's nice to see a new bike with that style.
>
> Enjoy the ride and thanks for sharing!
>
> Cheers- Mike in Htfd CT
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: New rig and Sunday afternoon ride

[Matt Beebe]

Patrick,

I just think it's cool that you can call them up, and whoever answers the 
phone is probably going to answer your question/help you out right then.   
  Oftentimes Grant will answer the phone.How many longstanding, 
renowned companies (almost 20 years for Rivendell) have founders who still 
talk to you when you call them up.It means something.

By the way, those are some brilliant photos you posted from the 2-nighter 
in the other thread.That is gorgeous country you have over there.

Matt


On Tuesday, June 25, 2013 8:20:56 PM UTC-4, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> I should add that my experience ordering my off the rack Hunqapillar, 
> Grant et al went well above and beyond to help me buy my first bike in 20 
> years. It's a disconcerting choice to spend that much on a bike when I 
> wasn't sure (due to vertigo) if I would be able to ride it any farther than 
> the free donated Schwinn (3 miles) or the Riv'd too-small Trek MTB (8 
> miles), yet I somehow felt in confident hands that would not steer me 
> wrong. They worked with me on figuring out barefoot pedals and who knows 
> how many other returning neophyte questions. The good news is, my bike 
> lives up to it's name of Shadowfax, being a steed that makes sure it's 
> rider is always on. I've since pummeled them with endless questions about 
> bags and racks and whatnot and they handle them all wonderfully.
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>
> On Monday, June 24, 2013 6:42:59 AM UTC-6, Matt Beebe wrote:
>>
>> Hi All,
>>
>> A couple years ago Rivendell mentioned in their mailing list update that 
>> their custom queue had gotten very short. This certainly planted a 
>> thought in my mind and after pondering for a while, being a huge fan of all 
>> bikes Rivendell, I decided to order my first custom from them, an 
>> all-rounder.   If you are on the fence about going to Rivendell for a 
>> custom (or any bike), I advise going for it.   Let's just say they go way, 
>> WAY above and beyond to help you find what you are looking for.
>>
>> Anyway I got it this past week and am blown away, I could not be more 
>> psyched on this thing.   I built it up in an craze of excitement and have 
>> been riding it more or less nonstop, it's a blast.   
>>
>> Here are some pictures from the local woods this past Sunday afternoon.   
>> The bike rides fantastically, comfortable and natural feeling.   It is like 
>> a wolf in sheep's clothing in a way-  in addition to the signature 
>> rivendell good looks and regalness, it handles the trails like it was 
>> nothing (except fun of course!)
>>
>> https://www.flickr.com/photos/43029278@N07/sets/72157634302421200/
>>
>>
>> Happy riding everyone
>>
>> Matt 
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Powder Coated S.H. and Dureme 50's

[Matt Beebe]

The powdercoat looks good and sturdy.I love the 50mm Duremes.This 
is one of the OG green ones right?   My better half has an OG green one, 
beautiful paint but it is definitely somewhat temperamental.   She's been 
getting by with some nail polish that Elton at Harris Cyclery gave her, 
which is a darn close match.




On Sunday, June 23, 2013 12:52:05 PM UTC-4, jandrews_nyc wrote:
>
>
> I recently had my flaking paint S.H. powder coated as I often leave it 
> locked up outside in nyc.  The noodles went back on with a dirt drop and 
> also put the 50 Dureme's back on and currently enjoying the marshmallow 
> ride. see below
>
>
> 
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Hammered finish and lugged handlebars anyone?

[Matt Beebe]

I don't know about lugged bars, but I do wish Rivendell would come out with 
some chromoly Noodle bars.   Maybe just two sizes:   42 and 46cm.That 
would be sweet.And chromoly cranks too  :D

Matt



On Saturday, June 22, 2013 11:21:16 AM UTC-4, Michael wrote:
>
> Would be interesting if Rivendell had lugged versions and hammered 
> versions of their bars.
>  
> Just a lug collar at the ends of the drops and staches. Maybe at the clamp 
> sleeve, too. Maybe the sleeve could be a lug itself.
>  
> Hammered finish would be cool on Albas and Boscos, etc.
> Bullmeeses coul easily take lugs at the stem/bar junctions.
>  
> The Alba Bling Bar
> Noodle Bling Bar
> Albastache Bling Bar, etc.
>  
> You think they would sell?
> Might make it hard to wrap though.
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: LBS Love...

[Matt Beebe]

+1 for Harris Cyclery.   Everyone there is great, and Elton and Susan 
have been especially helpful to me.




On Sunday, June 30, 2013 3:33:13 PM UTC-4, Jim wrote:
>
> Boston Area is lucky. We have Harris Cyclery. You could not ask for 
> better. Good people, good stock, good shop.Jim D.   
>  Massachusetts
>
> On Sunday, June 30, 2013 9:06:24 AM UTC-4, EricP wrote:
>>
>> Another one who votes with his dollars at Hiawatha Cyclery.  Jim and Mark 
>> are great.  Willing to put up with my strange needs.  Then again, they have 
>> come up with some pretty strange and cool things themselves. 
>>  
>> The Twin Cities does have a nice selection of bike shops that speak steel 
>> bikes.  Doesn't hurt that QBP is located here.
>> Eric Platt
>> St. Paul, MN
>>  
>>
>> On Sun, Jun 30, 2013 at 6:36 AM, Edwin W  wrote:
>>
>>> Benji was amazing with price and ferrous with his time.
>>>
>>> That means he ironed things out while you spent time with him!
>>>
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>>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Newbaum's cloth bar tape

[Matt Beebe]

Also check out greengrips tape:   http://www.greengrips.org/   It is 
good quality and very easy to wrap.

Matt


P.S.  For some reason, sometimes their site doesn't load the first time you 
go to the URL (maybe it's just my computer), but after that no problems.





On Monday, July 1, 2013 6:39:49 PM UTC-4, Christopher Chen wrote:
>
> Also at SOMA fab: http://store.somafab.com/vivatape.html
>
>
> On Mon, Jul 1, 2013 at 3:07 PM, Lee Chae 
> > wrote:
>
>> Hi Johnny. I believe Jitensha Studio still carries the Viva cloth tape:
>>
>> http://jitensha.com/eng/tape_e.html
>>
>> Best,
>> Le
>>
>>
>> On Mon, Jul 1, 2013 at 2:58 PM, Johnny Alien 
>> 
>> > wrote:
>>
>>> I actually find the Newbaums a pain to install.  Something about it 
>>> makes it want to go on crooked.  The best bar tape was that Japanese kind 
>>> that Rivendell carried a year back or less.  I want to know where to get 
>>> more of that.  The light green was a fantastic color.
>>>
>>>
>>> On Monday, July 1, 2013 3:46:40 PM UTC-4, Don Compton wrote:

 I purchased my first cloth bar tape and have a new appreciation for the 
 effort needed to install this tape. I bought Newbaum's and its very nice, 
 but its a "bearcat" to wrap. Two rolls on my Ergo equipped, 44cm noodles, 
 with a little to spare.
 Don

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>>>
>>
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>
>
>
> -- 
> "I want the kind of six pack you can't drink." -- Micah 
>

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[RBW] Re: Portland to Seattle through the backdoor on a Romulus

[Matt Beebe]

Looks like an awesome, scenic ride.Great photos!  




On Thursday, July 4, 2013 6:30:01 PM UTC-4, joe b. wrote:
>
> I-bobs please excuse the cross post.
>
> Fellow Riv-lister Oliver & I took Jan Heine's route as inspiration, though 
> we did it more slowmo than rando. Three days included some great roads, 
> fantastic camping, and my longest day ever on the bike! I loaded the 
> Romulus well beyond intended (~30 pounds of gear), but it still rode very 
> well. I wouldn't go much heavier, though, as I had to be mindful loading 
> and riding to keep the shimmy monster at bay. A real highlight was meeting 
> up at random with Rambouillet rider Bruce, who good naturedly led us up 
> from Lake Washington to Capitol Hill. Thanks, Bruce! We crashed with 
> friends in Seattle and took Amtrak back to Portland. Enjoy some photos from 
> the trip here:
>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/cyclerslife/sets/72157634488426216/
>
> Best,
> joe broach
> portland, or
>

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[RBW] Re: Morning coffee ride on the freshly painted All Rounder!

[Matt Beebe]

Looks like a fabulous morning!   The green paint looks sweet, and the bike 
seems to eat those 650b wheels right up.   Clearance!  leave it to a Riv 
anyway. 


On Saturday, July 6, 2013 12:07:17 PM UTC-4, jinxed wrote:
>
> This mornings ride has been in my head for a LONG time, and the last week 
> saw all the parts come together.
>
> Bike by Rivendell
> Caldera Keg by Trail Designs via Ocean Air Cycles
> Acorn Mini Rando provided by the board - Thanks Thomas!
> Green cap from Jenny "The Funky Drummah" Klug
> Coffee and sunshine from the gods.
>
> It should be of no surprise that when you assemble quality made, thought 
> out, tried and true products...the results harmonize effortlessly.
>
> I enjoyed one of the nicest outings on my bike this morning.
>
> Pictures. Proof.
>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/42027576@N00/sets/72157634508699383/
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: What brand was that Japanese bartape RBW just stopped selling?

[Matt Beebe]

I use Greengrips tape, it's great in my opinion.   It's a little wider than 
velox and Viva tape, and has similar paper peel-away backing as Newbaums 
(which I'm not crazy about, but it's not a big deal).

Matt


On Tuesday, July 9, 2013 10:41:02 AM UTC-4, ccanter wrote:
>
> Has anyone used this?
> http://www.greengrips.org/
>
>
> On Tue, Jul 9, 2013 at 10:07 AM, Michael 
> > wrote:
>
>> Thanks, y'all.
>>>
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>>  
>>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Terrible News

[Matt Beebe]

Seth's contributions here were always positive.Not surprising that he 
was also a prominent contributor in open source software community. His 
death is tragic and the circumstances infuriating.



On Tuesday, July 9, 2013 3:03:07 PM UTC-4, Peter Pesce wrote:
>
> via Twitter:
>
> *ThePathLessPedaled* @*pathlesspedaled* 
> 
>  
>
> Just found out a reader from Durham was killed in a hit and run. RIP Seth 
> Vidal. http://bit.ly/1bljzbI 
> http://www.wral.com/bicyclist-killed-in-durham-hit-and-run/12639104/
>
> I do not know if this is the same person who is regular here. I did not 
> know him personally. The PLP video they link to features a nice guy on an 
> Atlantis. (If not, my apologies for causing undue grief.)
>
> Thoughts and prayers for his family and friends.
>
> -Pete in CT
>

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[RBW] Re: Newly built-up LongLow

[Matt Beebe]

Nice setup!   looks like a smooth riding bike, ready to go anywhere. 
What kind of dynohub are you using there?



On Thursday, July 18, 2013 1:27:46 AM UTC-4, IanA wrote:
>
> Towards the end of 2012, I bought a 1998 Double Joe F/F/HS LongLow from a 
> list member. I bought parts from Germany, the US, from list members (good 
> people here).  I have to say that dealing with the people on this list has 
> been a pleasure.
>
> I'm not a talented photographer, and the bicycle does look lovelier in the 
> steel.  This is my first Rivendell and it absolutely rides like a dream - 
> the stories are all true. I took it on its maiden voyage today and 20km 
> later was walking through the front door thinking I really must buy an 
> Atlantis as well.
>
> I've set it up for Randonneur riding and light-weight touring.  It will 
> comfortably handle true 35mm tires with the fenders, so I think it offers 
> lots of versatility.  I have it as an 8 speed (12-28) to the XD triple 
> (28/38/48) and that seems to be a good fit for this bike.
>
> It's my first ground-up build.  The headset was already pressed in, but I 
> built the wheels myself for this bicycle (first time) and assembled 
> everything either in my living-room or when I needed to at the local 
> bicycle co-op.  It's taken me a few months as I was working too much, but 
> it's good to finish the build finally.  I kept the build cost as low as 
> possible, using second-hand or using parts I already owned where I could. 
>  There are also quite a few new parts and I haven't compromised on quality. 
>  Overall, I'm very happy with the way it has turned out.
>

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