[RBW] Re: FS Sackville HB bag, Nitto F15, Small Trunksac.

[Frank Brose]

Sale pending.
Thanks,
Frank

On Friday, July 29, 2022 at 12:56:42 AM UTC-5 Hetchins52 wrote:

> My favorite handle bar bag -- Love the magnetic closure for the main flap!
> Great deal for this setup!
> David Lipsky
> Berkeley, CA
>
>
> On Thursday, July 28, 2022 at 3:40:58 PM UTC-7 Frank Brose wrote:
>
>> Everything is in excellent condition. Not a lot of use. Leather has been 
>> treated with Obenaufs.
>> I want to sell these as set. Asking  $220 net to me. I'll cover the 
>> shipping in the CONUS. PM me if you're interested.
>> Thanks,
>> Frank
>>
>> [image: P1020323.JPG]
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Hillibikes are so close!

[Daniel MacPherson]

Hey Everyone,


I’m having issues with my handlebar set-up. I’m running Nitto Technomic 
stem with Billie bars. The Billie bars are 25.4. The Nitto stem is 26.0. 
I’m using a problem solvers shim to fit the bars properly.


Anyway, I get a lot of flex in the Billie bars when I apply any weight to 
the bars. I’ve applied a lot of torque to the nut on the stem and it helps 
a bit but doesn’t solve the issue. I’m worried it might be the headset; 
however the headset appears tight and smooth. Have you guys experienced 
similar issues? Thoughts?


Thanks,


Daniel MacPherson

Tallahassee Florida

On Thursday, July 14, 2022 at 8:06:16 PM UTC-4 fra...@gmail.com wrote:

> Good to know Daniel! I have the stock DXR pads on for now. Only have 100 
> miles or so and I still have no grind or squeal. Something I have been 
> annoyed with since going to disc brakes 15 or so years back. 
> On Thursday, July 14, 2022 at 11:44:03 AM UTC-7 Daniel MacPherson wrote:
>
>> I fixed the squealing on my Susie by toeing in the Kool Stop pads just 
>> now.  It's worth the try if you are getting annoyed by the constant 
>> screech. 
>>
>>
>> Sincerely, 
>>
>> Daniel M
>>
>> On Friday, June 24, 2022 at 8:07:10 AM UTC-4 Paul Clifton wrote:
>>
>>> Good to know the Salmon pads squeal for lots of people. This isn't my 
>>> first fight with salmon pads on motolites, but it's the first time I asked 
>>> about it. I'll just swap out the pads like usual, and there will prob be a 
>>> free for shipping salmon pads post here once I get everything sorted out. I 
>>> have at least 2 sets to get rid of now.
>>>
>>> Wally, the dual compound mountain pads are my go to. I haven't had any 
>>> problems with them squealing before. There must be something about the 
>>> shape of the thinlines that leads to the squeal.
>>>
>>> Paul
>>>
>>> On Friday, June 24, 2022 at 6:59:35 AM UTC-5 wallye...@gmail.com wrote:
>>>
 I'm running Paul Motolites and the Kool Stop mountain pads, in salmon, 
 for my Gus.  No issues for fit or squealing.


 On Friday, June 24, 2022 at 6:30:18 AM UTC-4 brendonoid wrote:

> I have found that the thin line salmons, when working, are great pads 
> but by far the fussiest to setup. Getting them to be quiet can require 
> such 
> ludicrous amounts of toe-in that the pad wont last more than 1000 miles. 
> One trick that has worked previously worked is cleaning the pads 
> themselves 
> with isopropyl and then with hot detergent water. Not one or the other. 
> Both, in that order.
> I am trying the grey cheapy pads that riv started selling with 
> Neo-retros on my Susie and the setup was painless, and the braking is far 
> improved to my previous experience with Neo-retros.
> Sometimes everything just works, sometimes It doesn't, and if I could 
> tell which was which in advance I'd never learn anything.
>


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Re: [RBW] Which Dyno Hub?

[Will M]

Jason,

The best data I've found for objectively comparing output power and drag of 
different dynamo hubs across a range of speeds is here.  
https://www.cyclingabout.com/dynamo-hub-power-drag-testing-schmidt-son-shutter-precision-shimano/

I live car-free in an east-coast city.  Due to probability of theft, I went 
with less expensive 6V-3W Shimano dynohubs on my VO commuter bike and my 
Yuba extended-wheelbase cargo bike.  I had Cygolites in the past, but 
discovered the elegance of dynohub lighting -- lights are permanently 
mounted (theft prevention) and they always work (nothing to recharge).  
Less hassle.

To reduce zipties and wires, on my Quickbeam I went with this 6V-2.4W 
Shimano dynamo hub 

 
which powers only a front light (this battery-powered rear light 

 
on the fender).  If I were to do it again, I'd go with a 6V-3W hub with 
rear wiring using this elegant approach proposed by Igor at VO 

.

The "gotcha" with the Shimano dynamo hubs is that the wire connector cap 
and cover 
 is 
neither waterproof nor robust.  I've lost lights in more than 1 rain 
storm.  The connector cap has torn off more than once in normal riding.  
When I think about the value of one's time -- and the time spent 
maintaining the connector -- it starts to seem myopic not going with the 
SON. :-)

You asked about rims and spokes.  There are so many dynamo hub options out 
there (disc brake vs. rim brake; 32h vs. 36h vs. XXh; black vs. silver; 
etc. etc.), so you can get whatever you want/need.  I saved a ton of money 
trolling eBay remembering what Grant wrote in a Riv Reader more than a 
decade ago: "Mismatched rims are cool."

Cheers,
Will M
NYC  

 
On Thursday, July 28, 2022 at 10:38:30 AM UTC-4 greenteadrinkers wrote:

> Speaking as someone with a few SON28 wheels, and the type of riding you 
> described, I'd suggest considering a $30 Paul Gino mount and a few $35 
> Cygolite lights a go before investing $500+ on a SON28 and Edelux headlight 
> (not including the cost for the cox-axial connector, rim, rim tape, spokes, 
> and nipples). But, I totally get it, Dyno hubs are awesome! Personally, I 
> hate having to look at the wiring and zip ties.
>
> Best
> Scott
>
> On Thursday, July 28, 2022 at 9:09:10 AM UTC-4 peec...@yahoo.com wrote:
>
>> I have Velogical dynamo on my Sam Hillborne.  Love its elegance and the 
>> fact that I didn't have to change my front wheel and hub when I wanted to 
>> add dynamo lighting.  One other con to consider is the potential for 
>> slipping when riding in wet conditions.  The  Velogical has provided 
>> adequate light even when wet however.  Tim Petersen
>>
>> On Tuesday, July 26, 2022 at 10:19:02 AM UTC-5 campyo...@me.com wrote:
>>
>>> Jason:
>>>
>>> You’ll hear many opinions—good luck sifting through the advice you will 
>>> get!
>>>
>>> I have both SON and Shutter Precision hubs and have not had any issues 
>>> with either. My SONs have ranged from the old-style type with flanges 
>>> pressed onto a center piece to the modern (and very pretty) type. I have 
>>> several variations of the SP hubs on various bikes.
>>>
>>> If money is no object, definitely go with SON, if only because they’re 
>>> so darn pretty. SP will perform just as well—I have not experienced the 
>>> “roughness” that one other respondent reported.
>>>
>>> Based on what I’ve read about SON and their weather sealing, the biggest 
>>> advantage that I know of is that they are pressure compensated; SP hubs are 
>>> not. That means that if you go from a warm, dry environment directly into a 
>>> cold and dry one, the SON hubs won’t draw in moisture as the air inside the 
>>> hub cools. SP hubs might, but for this to be a problem, you would have to 
>>> roll right out into a cold downpour. That’s an edge case for me and 
>>> something that has never been a problem.
>>>
>>> Finally … Have you considered the Velogical dynamo? I have one on an 
>>> Alex Singer, and it’s great. Pros: Cheaper than a dyno hub and wheel, very 
>>> low draw, ZERO drag in the “off” position, great German engineering, works 
>>> with any wheel. Cons: Sits outside on the frame, where it might be subject 
>>> to damage (not a problem for me in several years of use), makes a quiet 
>>> whirring noise when running, requires a small clamp to attach to the frame.
>>>
>>> --Eric Norris
>>> campyo...@me.com
>>> Insta: @CampyOnlyGuy
>>> YouTube: YouTube.com/CampyOnlyGuy 
>>>
>>> On Jul 25, 2022, at 11:59 PM, Jason Glenn  wrote:
>>>
>>> Hi, all,
>>>
>>> I've never had a bike with a dyno hub but rode one a few months back -- 
>>> thanks, Max! -- and have decided to build up a wheel -- my first wheel 
>>> build, too -- with one for an Atla

Re: [RBW] Hillibikes are so close!

[Johnny Alien]

I had Billie bars on a tall nitto stem and had silly amounts of flex. 
Moving to a stem that had uprise instead of that negative angle helped a 
lot because I don't have to run them so high. I also think the Billie bars 
are just super flexy bars. I moved to losco and tosco bars and that also 
helped a bunch.

On Friday, July 29, 2022 at 7:51:03 AM UTC-4 Daniel MacPherson wrote:

> Hey Everyone,
>
>
> I’m having issues with my handlebar set-up. I’m running Nitto Technomic 
> stem with Billie bars. The Billie bars are 25.4. The Nitto stem is 26.0. 
> I’m using a problem solvers shim to fit the bars properly.
>
>
> Anyway, I get a lot of flex in the Billie bars when I apply any weight to 
> the bars. I’ve applied a lot of torque to the nut on the stem and it helps 
> a bit but doesn’t solve the issue. I’m worried it might be the headset; 
> however the headset appears tight and smooth. Have you guys experienced 
> similar issues? Thoughts?
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
> Daniel MacPherson
>
> Tallahassee Florida
>
> On Thursday, July 14, 2022 at 8:06:16 PM UTC-4 fra...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> Good to know Daniel! I have the stock DXR pads on for now. Only have 100 
>> miles or so and I still have no grind or squeal. Something I have been 
>> annoyed with since going to disc brakes 15 or so years back. 
>> On Thursday, July 14, 2022 at 11:44:03 AM UTC-7 Daniel MacPherson wrote:
>>
>>> I fixed the squealing on my Susie by toeing in the Kool Stop pads just 
>>> now.  It's worth the try if you are getting annoyed by the constant 
>>> screech. 
>>>
>>>
>>> Sincerely, 
>>>
>>> Daniel M
>>>
>>> On Friday, June 24, 2022 at 8:07:10 AM UTC-4 Paul Clifton wrote:
>>>
 Good to know the Salmon pads squeal for lots of people. This isn't my 
 first fight with salmon pads on motolites, but it's the first time I asked 
 about it. I'll just swap out the pads like usual, and there will prob be a 
 free for shipping salmon pads post here once I get everything sorted out. 
 I 
 have at least 2 sets to get rid of now.

 Wally, the dual compound mountain pads are my go to. I haven't had any 
 problems with them squealing before. There must be something about the 
 shape of the thinlines that leads to the squeal.

 Paul

 On Friday, June 24, 2022 at 6:59:35 AM UTC-5 wallye...@gmail.com wrote:

> I'm running Paul Motolites and the Kool Stop mountain pads, in salmon, 
> for my Gus.  No issues for fit or squealing.
>
>
> On Friday, June 24, 2022 at 6:30:18 AM UTC-4 brendonoid wrote:
>
>> I have found that the thin line salmons, when working, are great pads 
>> but by far the fussiest to setup. Getting them to be quiet can require 
>> such 
>> ludicrous amounts of toe-in that the pad wont last more than 1000 miles. 
>> One trick that has worked previously worked is cleaning the pads 
>> themselves 
>> with isopropyl and then with hot detergent water. Not one or the other. 
>> Both, in that order.
>> I am trying the grey cheapy pads that riv started selling with 
>> Neo-retros on my Susie and the setup was painless, and the braking is 
>> far 
>> improved to my previous experience with Neo-retros.
>> Sometimes everything just works, sometimes It doesn't, and if I could 
>> tell which was which in advance I'd never learn anything.
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: FS - NOS Shimano M732 7-speed shifter set

[Rich Lesnik]

I have a NOS front and slightly-used rear 32h hub for these shifters, if 
anyone's interested.

On Thursday, July 28, 2022 at 4:39:04 PM UTC-7 Bikie#4646 wrote:

> Folks, Since this has equal relevance to the i-BOB list, I plan to post it 
> there too. (Forgive that please.) Never used 7-speed thumb shifter set with 
> cables, housing, bottom bracket cable guide, plus related cable ends, etc. 
> All in the original packaging, albeit a little yellowed with age. 5-6-7 
> compatible with a "push" 8th click.
> In the early 1990's when Shimano introduced the "new" trigger shifters, I 
> stashed these away but eventually landed on 9-speed SRAM Twist Grips which 
> I use for mountain biking today. 
> It's a bit hard for me to justify continuing to hold on to these. I do 
> have one 7-speed bike, but it's a Bontrager CX converted to 1x7 years ago 
> with drops and a bar end shifter. When I went to the Internet to see what 
> folks were asking for these end-of-the-line Shimano thumbies, what I found 
> was used and scratched shifters (only) going for $54 to $150 on eBay. Mine 
> still have the original plastic covering on the faceplates.
> Bike Recyclery had a set of NOS thumb shifters (only) for $175.
> I'd love to avoid the craziness of the auction house but hesitate to 
> embarrass myself by asking too much from this group. I'm going to ask $175, 
> plus shipping for the set. 
> My guess is that the cost of shipping could be cut considerably by 
> shipping all in a Flat Rate box without the oversized original packaging 
> and willing to investigate that.
> Photos here: 
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/bikecrazy-paul/albums/72177720300890751
> PayPal preferred, PM me with any questions please.
> Paul Germain
> Midlothian, Va.
>

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Re: [RBW] Hillibikes are so close!

[Wally Estrella]

I have a 90mm boxcar stem w/ the Tosco bars on my XL Gus.  It's been in the 
woods over rocks, roots and all the bumps a New England single track can 
give.  It's been great!

On Friday, July 29, 2022 at 8:18:29 AM UTC-4 Johnny Alien wrote:

> I had Billie bars on a tall nitto stem and had silly amounts of flex. 
> Moving to a stem that had uprise instead of that negative angle helped a 
> lot because I don't have to run them so high. I also think the Billie bars 
> are just super flexy bars. I moved to losco and tosco bars and that also 
> helped a bunch.
>
> On Friday, July 29, 2022 at 7:51:03 AM UTC-4 Daniel MacPherson wrote:
>
>> Hey Everyone,
>>
>>
>> I’m having issues with my handlebar set-up. I’m running Nitto Technomic 
>> stem with Billie bars. The Billie bars are 25.4. The Nitto stem is 26.0. 
>> I’m using a problem solvers shim to fit the bars properly.
>>
>>
>> Anyway, I get a lot of flex in the Billie bars when I apply any weight to 
>> the bars. I’ve applied a lot of torque to the nut on the stem and it helps 
>> a bit but doesn’t solve the issue. I’m worried it might be the headset; 
>> however the headset appears tight and smooth. Have you guys experienced 
>> similar issues? Thoughts?
>>
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>>
>> Daniel MacPherson
>>
>> Tallahassee Florida
>>
>> On Thursday, July 14, 2022 at 8:06:16 PM UTC-4 fra...@gmail.com wrote:
>>
>>> Good to know Daniel! I have the stock DXR pads on for now. Only have 100 
>>> miles or so and I still have no grind or squeal. Something I have been 
>>> annoyed with since going to disc brakes 15 or so years back. 
>>> On Thursday, July 14, 2022 at 11:44:03 AM UTC-7 Daniel MacPherson wrote:
>>>
 I fixed the squealing on my Susie by toeing in the Kool Stop pads just 
 now.  It's worth the try if you are getting annoyed by the constant 
 screech. 


 Sincerely, 

 Daniel M

 On Friday, June 24, 2022 at 8:07:10 AM UTC-4 Paul Clifton wrote:

> Good to know the Salmon pads squeal for lots of people. This isn't my 
> first fight with salmon pads on motolites, but it's the first time I 
> asked 
> about it. I'll just swap out the pads like usual, and there will prob be 
> a 
> free for shipping salmon pads post here once I get everything sorted out. 
> I 
> have at least 2 sets to get rid of now.
>
> Wally, the dual compound mountain pads are my go to. I haven't had any 
> problems with them squealing before. There must be something about the 
> shape of the thinlines that leads to the squeal.
>
> Paul
>
> On Friday, June 24, 2022 at 6:59:35 AM UTC-5 wallye...@gmail.com 
> wrote:
>
>> I'm running Paul Motolites and the Kool Stop mountain pads, in 
>> salmon, for my Gus.  No issues for fit or squealing.
>>
>>
>> On Friday, June 24, 2022 at 6:30:18 AM UTC-4 brendonoid wrote:
>>
>>> I have found that the thin line salmons, when working, are great 
>>> pads but by far the fussiest to setup. Getting them to be quiet can 
>>> require 
>>> such ludicrous amounts of toe-in that the pad wont last more than 1000 
>>> miles. One trick that has worked previously worked is cleaning the pads 
>>> themselves with isopropyl and then with hot detergent water. Not one or 
>>> the 
>>> other. Both, in that order.
>>> I am trying the grey cheapy pads that riv started selling with 
>>> Neo-retros on my Susie and the setup was painless, and the braking is 
>>> far 
>>> improved to my previous experience with Neo-retros.
>>> Sometimes everything just works, sometimes It doesn't, and if I 
>>> could tell which was which in advance I'd never learn anything.
>>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Hillibikes are so close!

[amillhench]

I am also running a boxcar on Toscos with good results. I ran a EA90 before and 
it was pretty noodly. 

Many people have had issues with Bosco flex. They make an excellent lever. For 
quill stems a dirt drop stem may help as mentioned above or get a cool sling 
shot stem for extra style points. 

Best,

Aaron in El Paso 

On Jul 29, 2022, at 06:49, Wally Estrella  wrote:

I have a 90mm boxcar stem w/ the Tosco bars on my XL Gus.  It's been in the 
woods over rocks, roots and all the bumps a New England single track can give.  
It's been great!

On Friday, July 29, 2022 at 8:18:29 AM UTC-4 Johnny Alien wrote:
> I had Billie bars on a tall nitto stem and had silly amounts of flex. Moving 
> to a stem that had uprise instead of that negative angle helped a lot because 
> I don't have to run them so high. I also think the Billie bars are just super 
> flexy bars. I moved to losco and tosco bars and that also helped a bunch.
> 
> On Friday, July 29, 2022 at 7:51:03 AM UTC-4 Daniel MacPherson wrote:
>> Hey Everyone,
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> I’m having issues with my handlebar set-up. I’m running Nitto Technomic stem 
>> with Billie bars. The Billie bars are 25.4. The Nitto stem is 26.0. I’m 
>> using a problem solvers shim to fit the bars properly.
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Anyway, I get a lot of flex in the Billie bars when I apply any weight to 
>> the bars. I’ve applied a lot of torque to the nut on the stem and it helps a 
>> bit but doesn’t solve the issue. I’m worried it might be the headset; 
>> however the headset appears tight and smooth. Have you guys experienced 
>> similar issues? Thoughts?
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Thanks,
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Daniel MacPherson
>> 
>> Tallahassee Florida
>> 
>> 
>> On Thursday, July 14, 2022 at 8:06:16 PM UTC-4 fra...@gmail.com wrote:
>>> Good to know Daniel! I have the stock DXR pads on for now. Only have 100 
>>> miles or so and I still have no grind or squeal. Something I have been 
>>> annoyed with since going to disc brakes 15 or so years back. 
>>> On Thursday, July 14, 2022 at 11:44:03 AM UTC-7 Daniel MacPherson wrote:
 I fixed the squealing on my Susie by toeing in the Kool Stop pads just 
 now.  It's worth the try if you are getting annoyed by the constant 
 screech. 
 
 
 Sincerely, 
 
 Daniel M
 
 On Friday, June 24, 2022 at 8:07:10 AM UTC-4 Paul Clifton wrote:
> Good to know the Salmon pads squeal for lots of people. This isn't my 
> first fight with salmon pads on motolites, but it's the first time I 
> asked about it. I'll just swap out the pads like usual, and there will 
> prob be a free for shipping salmon pads post here once I get everything 
> sorted out. I have at least 2 sets to get rid of now.
> 
> Wally, the dual compound mountain pads are my go to. I haven't had any 
> problems with them squealing before. There must be something about the 
> shape of the thinlines that leads to the squeal.
> 
> Paul
> 
> On Friday, June 24, 2022 at 6:59:35 AM UTC-5 wallye...@gmail.com wrote:
>> I'm running Paul Motolites and the Kool Stop mountain pads, in salmon, 
>> for my Gus.  No issues for fit or squealing.
>> 
>> 
>> On Friday, June 24, 2022 at 6:30:18 AM UTC-4 brendonoid wrote:
>>> I have found that the thin line salmons, when working, are great pads 
>>> but by far the fussiest to setup. Getting them to be quiet can require 
>>> such ludicrous amounts of toe-in that the pad wont last more than 1000 
>>> miles. One trick that has worked previously worked is cleaning the pads 
>>> themselves with isopropyl and then with hot detergent water. Not one or 
>>> the other. Both, in that order.
>>> I am trying the grey cheapy pads that riv started selling with 
>>> Neo-retros on my Susie and the setup was painless, and the braking is 
>>> far improved to my previous experience with Neo-retros.
>>> Sometimes everything just works, sometimes It doesn't, and if I could 
>>> tell which was which in advance I'd never learn anything.

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Re: [RBW] Hillibikes are so close!

[Richard Rose]

I have the 650 wide Tosco (ChroMo) with a FacePlater stem. Rigid AF. Seriously 
it does not budge. Both 31.8. No shims.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 29, 2022, at 7:51 AM, Daniel MacPherson  wrote:
> 
> 
> Hey Everyone,
> 
> 
> 
> I’m having issues with my handlebar set-up. I’m running Nitto Technomic stem 
> with Billie bars. The Billie bars are 25.4. The Nitto stem is 26.0. I’m using 
> a problem solvers shim to fit the bars properly.
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, I get a lot of flex in the Billie bars when I apply any weight to the 
> bars. I’ve applied a lot of torque to the nut on the stem and it helps a bit 
> but doesn’t solve the issue. I’m worried it might be the headset; however the 
> headset appears tight and smooth. Have you guys experienced similar issues? 
> Thoughts?
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> 
> Daniel MacPherson
> 
> Tallahassee Florida
> 
> 
>> On Thursday, July 14, 2022 at 8:06:16 PM UTC-4 fra...@gmail.com wrote:
>> Good to know Daniel! I have the stock DXR pads on for now. Only have 100 
>> miles or so and I still have no grind or squeal. Something I have been 
>> annoyed with since going to disc brakes 15 or so years back. 
>>> On Thursday, July 14, 2022 at 11:44:03 AM UTC-7 Daniel MacPherson wrote:
>>> I fixed the squealing on my Susie by toeing in the Kool Stop pads just now. 
>>>  It's worth the try if you are getting annoyed by the constant screech. 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Sincerely, 
>>> 
>>> Daniel M
>>> 
 On Friday, June 24, 2022 at 8:07:10 AM UTC-4 Paul Clifton wrote:
 Good to know the Salmon pads squeal for lots of people. This isn't my 
 first fight with salmon pads on motolites, but it's the first time I asked 
 about it. I'll just swap out the pads like usual, and there will prob be a 
 free for shipping salmon pads post here once I get everything sorted out. 
 I have at least 2 sets to get rid of now.
 
 Wally, the dual compound mountain pads are my go to. I haven't had any 
 problems with them squealing before. There must be something about the 
 shape of the thinlines that leads to the squeal.
 
 Paul
 
> On Friday, June 24, 2022 at 6:59:35 AM UTC-5 wallye...@gmail.com wrote:
> I'm running Paul Motolites and the Kool Stop mountain pads, in salmon, 
> for my Gus.  No issues for fit or squealing.
> 
> 
>> On Friday, June 24, 2022 at 6:30:18 AM UTC-4 brendonoid wrote:
>> I have found that the thin line salmons, when working, are great pads 
>> but by far the fussiest to setup. Getting them to be quiet can require 
>> such ludicrous amounts of toe-in that the pad wont last more than 1000 
>> miles. One trick that has worked previously worked is cleaning the pads 
>> themselves with isopropyl and then with hot detergent water. Not one or 
>> the other. Both, in that order.
>> I am trying the grey cheapy pads that riv started selling with 
>> Neo-retros on my Susie and the setup was painless, and the braking is 
>> far improved to my previous experience with Neo-retros.
>> Sometimes everything just works, sometimes It doesn't, and if I could 
>> tell which was which in advance I'd never learn anything.
> 
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Re: [RBW] Hillibikes are so close!

[Daniel MacPherson]

Okay. I have Albatross bars on my Surly with.no flex. But the stem is
headless so I wonder if the tall Nitto stem is the main contributing
culprit. I don’t mind a little flex but this is too much.

I was thinking the Jim stem with the double bolt and uprise angle might
solve the problem. Thoughts?

Daniel M
Tallahassee Fl
On Fri, Jul 29, 2022 at 8:18 AM Johnny Alien 
wrote:

> I had Billie bars on a tall nitto stem and had silly amounts of flex.
> Moving to a stem that had uprise instead of that negative angle helped a
> lot because I don't have to run them so high. I also think the Billie bars
> are just super flexy bars. I moved to losco and tosco bars and that also
> helped a bunch.
>
> On Friday, July 29, 2022 at 7:51:03 AM UTC-4 Daniel MacPherson wrote:
>
>> Hey Everyone,
>>
>>
>> I’m having issues with my handlebar set-up. I’m running Nitto Technomic
>> stem with Billie bars. The Billie bars are 25.4. The Nitto stem is 26.0.
>> I’m using a problem solvers shim to fit the bars properly.
>>
>>
>> Anyway, I get a lot of flex in the Billie bars when I apply any weight to
>> the bars. I’ve applied a lot of torque to the nut on the stem and it helps
>> a bit but doesn’t solve the issue. I’m worried it might be the headset;
>> however the headset appears tight and smooth. Have you guys experienced
>> similar issues? Thoughts?
>>
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>>
>> Daniel MacPherson
>>
>> Tallahassee Florida
>>
>> On Thursday, July 14, 2022 at 8:06:16 PM UTC-4 fra...@gmail.com wrote:
>>
>>> Good to know Daniel! I have the stock DXR pads on for now. Only have 100
>>> miles or so and I still have no grind or squeal. Something I have been
>>> annoyed with since going to disc brakes 15 or so years back.
>>> On Thursday, July 14, 2022 at 11:44:03 AM UTC-7 Daniel MacPherson wrote:
>>>
 I fixed the squealing on my Susie by toeing in the Kool Stop pads just
 now.  It's worth the try if you are getting annoyed by the constant
 screech.


 Sincerely,

 Daniel M

 On Friday, June 24, 2022 at 8:07:10 AM UTC-4 Paul Clifton wrote:

> Good to know the Salmon pads squeal for lots of people. This isn't my
> first fight with salmon pads on motolites, but it's the first time I asked
> about it. I'll just swap out the pads like usual, and there will prob be a
> free for shipping salmon pads post here once I get everything sorted out. 
> I
> have at least 2 sets to get rid of now.
>
> Wally, the dual compound mountain pads are my go to. I haven't had any
> problems with them squealing before. There must be something about the
> shape of the thinlines that leads to the squeal.
>
> Paul
>
> On Friday, June 24, 2022 at 6:59:35 AM UTC-5 wallye...@gmail.com
> wrote:
>
>> I'm running Paul Motolites and the Kool Stop mountain pads, in
>> salmon, for my Gus.  No issues for fit or squealing.
>>
>>
>> On Friday, June 24, 2022 at 6:30:18 AM UTC-4 brendonoid wrote:
>>
>>> I have found that the thin line salmons, when working, are great
>>> pads but by far the fussiest to setup. Getting them to be quiet can 
>>> require
>>> such ludicrous amounts of toe-in that the pad wont last more than 1000
>>> miles. One trick that has worked previously worked is cleaning the pads
>>> themselves with isopropyl and then with hot detergent water. Not one or 
>>> the
>>> other. Both, in that order.
>>> I am trying the grey cheapy pads that riv started selling with
>>> Neo-retros on my Susie and the setup was painless, and the braking is 
>>> far
>>> improved to my previous experience with Neo-retros.
>>> Sometimes everything just works, sometimes It doesn't, and if I
>>> could tell which was which in advance I'd never learn anything.
>>>
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[RBW] Re: 56+ before 55!

[Chris Balaschak]

Great ride report.

Can I ask - where did you find those water bottles?
On Friday, July 15, 2022 at 9:41:05 PM UTC-4 Drew Saunders wrote:

> For the past few years, I've tried to ride my age or more on or about my 
> birthday (this Sunday, the 17th, a.k.a. "World Emoji Day!"). Although not 
> as impressive as crossing the country, it was still a good ride today.
>
> In 2017, instead of riding 50+ miles for my 50th birthday, I spent my 
> birthday in the hospital due to a bad reaction to Xeloda, my first 
> chemotherapy drug. Oh, did I mention that in April of 2017 I found out that 
> I had adenocarcinoma of the descending colon? I had the colectomy at the 
> end of May, and started chemo at the end of June (and re-started it at the 
> end of July with a different drug). That'll put a damper in your riding 
> plans any day! 
>
> I was able to do a 53 mile ride before turning 51 in 2018, and a 55 mile 
> ride before turning 52 in 2019. I found my fitness dropping unexpectedly in 
> 2020, but eventually figured out that it was due to working from home and 
> no longer walking or biking to work (which is only 2 miles each way, but it 
> adds up). I added a neighborhood walk to my morning routine and improved my 
> fitness, but wasn't able to get in a 53+ mile ride for 2020. Then, in 
> November 2020 (Friday the 13th, of course) I found out that my cancer had 
> returned in a single tumor in my liver. That (along with 1/4 of my liver) 
> was removed at the end of December.
>
> 2021 was the year of regrowing my liver, so no long ride that July! I 
> still got in some medium rides, but didn't make 54KM, much less 54 miles 
> for any of them.
>
> I set out this morning to do a variation on the same 53 and 55 mile ride I 
> had done in 2018 and 2019, just with a little more at each end. For the 
> locals, this is Cañada road to the end, then meander through Woodside, 
> Portola Valley and Los Altos Hills, then Foothill Expressway/Steven's 
> Canyon Road and turn around at the Lakeshore Picnic Area then home. It 
> totaled 56.62 miles! Eventually, I'll have to switch to kilometers.
>
> "Pics or it didn't happen":
> [image: 2022-07-15_09-18-35_568.jpg]
> The turnaround at Cañada Road and Hwy 92 (uppermost part of Lower Crystal 
> Springs reservoir)
> [image: 2022-07-15_09-27-30_001.jpg]
> The famous Pulgas Water Temple from the fence (it looks better up close)
> [image: 2022-07-15_09-54-51_607.jpg]
> The Woodside Store, a fine place to stop for a snack and refill the 
> bottles. The glowing blue stuff is Gatorade. That's a very early (Duluth 
> patch) "banana bag" in the back and a "candy bar bag" in the front.[image: 
> 2022-07-15_11-38-41_948.jpg]
> Last snack stop at Lakeshore Picnic Area selfie. Yes, Oscar is a 
> Retrogrouch! His trash can is STEEL, not plastic!
>
> Drew
>

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[RBW] Re: Rivendell e-bike (conversion)

[Andy Beichler]

Is anyone still electrifying Rivendells?  I just recently purchased two mid 
drive kits (one for me, one for my wife) and have installed them on non 
Rivendell bikes.  But, I really love them and still have a desire to 
eventually own a Rivendell bike so I am curious if others are still doing 
it.


On Saturday, August 26, 2017 at 10:50:40 AM UTC-4 Lum Gim Fong wrote:

> bump, any newer ideas?
>

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[RBW] Re: WTB: 68cm Atlantis

[Mack Penner]

Thanks, all! I'm 6'7", but mercifully my pbh is sort of 6'4"ish, round 
about 96.5 or 97, with a saddle height of 85.5 or 86 depending on a few 
things. As you can imagine, I spent years on (non-Riv) 60s and 61s running 
a ton of seatpost to make it work. My 60cm Platypus (love it) is going to 
survive these developments, as is my 62cm Appaloosa, but otherwise I'm 
gettin' rid of everything else. I couldn't say whether it's all down to 
frame size, but these big ones (Atlantis and 67cm Homer, QB isn't built up 
yet) ride great, and I think they look better than smaller bikes that are 
set up "big." I'm now definitely an apostle of "bigger is better" which, to 
be fair, is easier to say now than it was before! 
Mack 

On Tuesday, July 19, 2022 at 11:10:30 AM UTC-6 Cal Patterson wrote:

>
> Wow that is such a good looking bike. I don’t think I’ve ever seen a 68 
> before, xl frames just look so dang good to my eye. I love how you’ve built 
> it too. I’m starting to think I could fit a much bigger atlantis than I 
> previously thought, inspired by this picture..
> On Tuesday, July 19, 2022 at 9:42:02 AM UTC-7 larson@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> What a beautiful Atlantis! At just over 6’4” I can appreciate these bikes 
>> and hope to someday own a larger Atlantis. Great work and I bet it rides 
>> nice.
>> Randy
>>
>> On Tuesday, July 19, 2022 at 9:49:12 AM UTC-5 brettjc...@gmail.com wrote:
>>
>>> What a great looking bike. The pink case on the Wahoo is a really nice 
>>> touch. 
>>>
>>> On Tuesday, July 19, 2022 at 7:39:11 AM UTC-7 mark etze wrote:
>>>
 That's a great looking Atlantis. I am always sorta looking for 68cm 
 Riv's and when I saw your WTB I just figured there was no chance you would 
 get one because they are so rare. Congratulations on finding 2.

 On Monday, July 18, 2022 at 2:13:23 PM UTC-4 penne...@gmail.com wrote:

> Following up here just to say that, against the odds, this worked 
> amazingly well. Took 9 days from the WTB being posted for me to take 
> delivery of a 68cm Atlantis frame, which I built up right away, fine 
> tuned 
> for a week or so, and is now up and running. The build was mainly 
> dictated 
> by parts availability in my garage (didn't buy anything), but I also took 
> inspiration from the colour scheme of 1980s era Burger Kings after a 
> photo 
> of one preserved behind a wall at a mall in Delaware made its rounds on 
> the 
> internet a couple of weeks ago! I've attached a photo—hope I've done so 
> properly. 
>
> This success, I presume, would be unlikely enough. But, my WTB also 
> led straight to finding the other 68 I had been wanting, a Quickbeam, 
> which 
> arrived today! Seems miraculous. Thanks to the tall guys on here who 
> helped 
> me out! 
>
> Mack in Alberta (and in the middle of a pbh range) 
>
> On Monday, June 20, 2022 at 11:00:11 AM UTC-6 Mack Penner wrote:
>
>> In the last couple of years, at least, the bunch seems to have been 
>> amazingly effective at moving some 68cm Atlantises (Atlantii?) around to 
>> new owners. So, one more time? F/F/HS would be ideal, but if you only 
>> want 
>> to sell complete my arm could be twisted, probably. 
>>
>> I've been a reader for a little while, but never a poster, so this 
>> post might have an uphill battle ahead of it. Maybe a brief explanation 
>> will help: I managed to buy a 67cm Homer this winter, and it went 
>> straight 
>> to the top of my favourites list, ahead of a 62cm 2TT Appaloosa (thx Jim 
>> W!), a 61cm Roadini that I'm always on the verge of selling, and just 
>> barely ahead of a 60cm Platypus. Being totally hooked on the fit of the 
>> Homer, I want another big one but with room for fatter tires.
>>
>> Could this work in time for my end of summer tour in the Rockies to 
>> be an Atlantis tour? Here's hoping!
>>
>> Mack in Alberta 
>>
>

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[RBW] Albatross Bars and stem size

[Russell Duncan]

Greetings all,

I just joined the group, and I'd like to ask the collective about their 
experiences converting a a drop bar road bike for use with a Riv Albatross 
bar, and specifically the size of stem to use. Its not easy to do a search 
on this without weeding through many FS or WTB posts for Albatross bars.

First, the bike that is being retrofitted: it is a 1977 Trek TX500, size 49 
and 53 c-to-c seat and top tubes respectively. I believe that it was the 
smallest size Trek available in their first(?) year of operation, and It's 
a MUSA frame. 

Second, the person that I'm building it for and its intended use: my 
partner who already has a road bike with drop bars and a mountain bike with 
mountain bike style bars. My thought was to build her something different 
and more like the ride of my classic 3-spd Raleigh that I like riding about 
town on. 

I have the handlebars and they're currently set-up with a 1970s TTT road 
stem, size 65 mm by my measurement. This seems too short and I was thinking 
that a 90 mm maybe a better choice with how far back the handlebars will be 
for a comfortable ride.

As to shifters, I'm now settled on Shimano bar end shifters. First, I tried 
Paul Thumbies, but I know that she'll complain as even I think that it's 
somewhat awkward shifting barcons retrofitted as thumb shifters. I know 
some swear by their use but, I also know what she'll come to like in the 
end, no muss, no fuss. Hell, I may end up putting shifters on the stem for 
her, which will not be a bad thing. As Crumpie says, Just Ride the Bloody 
Bike.

So, suggestions please, and feel free to contact me directly. 

Russell Duncan
Leverett, MA and Saratoga, WY


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[RBW] FS - 56 Rivendell Rambouillet ca. 2006

[Chris Balaschak]

Second owner of this lovely ride, and my #3 riv. Just slightly too big for 
me, hence it sits more than any others. 

Nitto seatpost, Nitto Technomic stem, nitto randonneur handlebars

Dura Ace hubs on velocity rims, Jack Brown tires (700x33)

Shimano deore crankset, Shimano FD, sunxd RD, hollowlink 10sp chain

Shimano rim brakes and levers

Components are generally in excellent condition, crankset is solid though 
logos are worn, frame has some scratches and wear as expected for a bike of 
this age, but nothing out of the ordinary

Serial # RB1117

Saddle, saddlebag, pump, and pedals excluded from sale 

$2000


Buyer pays a shop to box and ship early August (Sprockets in St Aug, FL), 
or if you are along the 95, i may be passing you by in another week.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/e8JozwRq4FaWFPX1A







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Re: [RBW] Which Dyno Hub?

[Patrick Moore]

The SP on my Matthews dirt road bike works fine at low speeds.

This one is as smooth as my SON; an earlier SP did vibrate a bit more. My
various Shimanos were as smooth as the SON too.

My SON is the 20 R or whatever the small-wheel model used to be called;
isn't this now the "Deluxe"? At any rate, it's made for smaller wheels, so
if you choose SON you might want to choose the 28 for slower speeds.

BTW, I've had absolutely no problems with the narrow SP on 2 bikes,
currently a 700C off road bike with 32 spoke front wheel.

On Tue, Jul 26, 2022 at 9:31 AM Brian Forsee  wrote:

> Eric,
>
> Do you have any thoughts/comparisons on the SON vs SP for low speeds? I'm
> looking to get a dynamo set up for single track bikepacking applications. I
> believe the general consensus is the SON is best at low speeds.
>
> Thanks in advance!
>
> -Brian in STL, MO
>

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[RBW] WTB: Atlantis 51cm

[Brandon Souba]

Hey folks! 

I’m looking for an Atlantis in size 51cm. LMK if you have any leads. Thanks!

- Brandon

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[RBW] FS: Sackville Trunksacks

[Mitchie Fulfer]

2x Trunksack (olive and brown): $80 shipped
Excellent condition.

https://photos.google.com/album/AF1QipMKWulA2fuZBrkASdfXTp_Q_24OVLef_HMam1d0

Let me know if you are interested or if you have any questions! Thanks

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Re: [RBW] Southwest Michigan Rivendell Ride ✅

[Jake Freeland]

I live in SE.MI. Bit of a hike to get out that way, but sounds like fun. I 
will keep my eyes open for the next one.

On Monday, July 18, 2022 at 4:53:11 PM UTC-4 Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! wrote:

> Joe, You do know me, because that is exactly what I did. And then I 
> decided I’d rather push harder than spin faster and went back to my 
> original gear. I think you may have missed it but I posted a pic a little 
> earlier in the thread of my splits. The part where I freak out about the 
> reservation is obvious.
>
> On Monday, July 18, 2022 at 2:58:30 PM UTC-4 Joe Bernard wrote:
>
>> Hehe, knowing Leah she probably put it in the hardest gear and went like 
>> blazes, with one minor downshift for the big hill at the end. I pity you 
>> fellows trying to keep up with her! 
>>
>> On Monday, July 18, 2022 at 9:16:40 AM UTC-7 Marc Irwin wrote:
>>
>>> Solidarity?!?!  She doesn't shift.  That's it.
>>>
>>> Marc
>>>
>>>
>>> On Sunday, July 17, 2022 at 2:32:41 PM UTC-4 Joe Bernard wrote:
>>>
 Ok so if I'm following this correctly you stayed in one gear in 
 singlespeed solidarity with Ben for most of the ride..and he was shifting! 
 I love this story! 😁

 On Sunday, July 17, 2022 at 10:37:44 AM UTC-7 Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! 
 wrote:

> Wesley, I’m laughing out loud. I never looked at the drivetrain until 
> I read your comment! At the start of the ride Ben was talking about his 
> single speed. He rides single speed. Loves singlespeed. So, Ben has a 
> singlespeed. I’m taking his word for it. I don’t look at drivetrains. But 
> having been humbled here, I sure will in the future. At least before I 
> wrote about them!
> Leah
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Jul 17, 2022, at 1:05 PM, Wesley  wrote:
>
> I love all of this, and must admit being confused by Ben's custom 
> being called a single-speed.
>
>
> -W
> On Sunday, July 17, 2022 at 7:01:30 AM UTC-7 Max S wrote:
>
>> [image: Leah saddlesack.jpeg][image: Platypus downtube.jpeg]
>>
>> On Sunday, July 17, 2022 at 10:00:57 AM UTC-4 Max S wrote:
>>
>>> [image: Rainbows and unicorns.jpeg][image: The bike life.jpeg][image: 
>>> Rivvy Rally SW MI Jul 2022.jpeg][image: VO Adjustable Double 
>>> Kickstand.jpeg]
>>>
>>> On Sunday, July 17, 2022 at 10:00:27 AM UTC-4 Max S wrote:
>>>
 Great fun, that was! 

 A few more photodetails and a plug for Josh's bike biz – get in 
 touch if you want your nice steel bike electrified properly and 
 nicely. 

 - Max "those last 3 miles were definitely uphill!" in A2 

 [image: Josh Planetary Gear.jpeg][image: Copenhagenize.jpeg][image: 
 Get some light in here.jpeg][image: The Rivendell Pirate.jpeg]

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> .
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Advice on a bike trade

[Brandon Souba]

Frankie - what size is your Atlantis?

On Thu, Jul 21, 2022 at 5:32 PM Nikko in Oakland 
wrote:

> I’d keep the Atlantis.
>
> Mounts on the fork, better paint, and it’s Grant’s take on a better
> version of the XO-1.
>
> On Thursday, July 21, 2022 at 3:03:27 PM UTC-7 frankie garcia wrote:
>
>> Would you trade your mint 2000 Toyota Atlantis 26” for a Bridgestone Xo-1
>> in the same condition?
>> Please elaborate.
>>
>> -Frankie
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>
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> .
>

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[RBW] Charlotte N.C. Leisurely Urban Bicycle Exploration L.U.B.E

[Colville]

First off, a bit of an introduction of myself since I'm a newbie to this 
Google group thing...

Hello, my name is Colville Griffith and I live in Charlotte, North Carolina.

I've been a fan of Rivendell for quite a few years ever since stumbling 
across them while doing bicycle searches on the interwebs back some time 
around 2013 I believe.  Upon first learning about them, I purchased Grant's 
book "Just Ride" and was so happy to finally see I wasn't alone!  I was 
immediately fascinated, and my love for Rivendell began.  I continued to 
ride vintage steel bicycles, (Bridgestone's, some old era built Schwinn 
Klunkers, etc.) but have finally recently purchased my first Rivendell.  A 
Ro5co Bubb3 and I am extremely excited since I got to ride one recently and 
see what the feeling is really like, it was a Cheviot and was glorious.  I 
also see an Atlantis in my future since I've wanted one of those since I 
first learned of Rivendell, but after riding the step through I knew I had 
to own one of them first.

So the real reason for this thread...

I recently rode with a group named L.U.B.E here in Charlotte and really 
enjoyed the ride.  I wanted to invite others along in the Rivendell 
community, so thought I would put the word out there for anyone in the 
surrounding area that could attend.  The people are great, and the ride is 
really enjoyable.  The ride is led by a gentlemen named Zack, great guy!

Here are some ways to find out about the ride, and if I can remember I will 
post up dates etc. here in this thread.

Social Media: 
Instagram-- @lube_clt
Facebook-- LUBE - Leisurely Urban Bicycle Explorations

Like I mentioned above, Zack runs the thing as far as I can tell, but I 
just wanted to share the word of a nice ride, with some good people.  Maybe 
I'll see you there if you're in the area?  So far the rides have been 
mostly on Saturday mornings.  They also have the coolest vintage graphic 
designs for their ride ads :))  I'll add one on this thread if I can figure 
it out lol

Another good place that hosts some great events is The Spoke Easy here in 
Charlotte, check them out for a good time as well!

A few people I'd like to thank for introducing me to the group here and 
informing me more about Rivendell... First off the wonderful people that 
work at Rivendell, particularly the ones I've spoken too most, Grant, 
James, Will, Thank you!  The Non employees but just as important to me, 
Leah with her beautiful Red Platypus... and Pam, for letting me ride one of 
her lovely Rivendell's here locally  : )  You all are wonderful people!

Hope to see more delightful Rivendell bicycles out here in marvelous North 
Carolina!

Thanks 


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[RBW] Re: Craigslist (and others) Bikes For Sale: 3

[Mitchie Fulfer]

Rivendell Road Standard
59cm
1,000
Redondo Beach, CA
https://losangeles.craigslist.org/wst/bik/d/redondo-beach-rivendell-road-standard/7510004831.html

On Friday, July 22, 2022 at 6:37:08 PM UTC-7 Matthew Williams wrote:

> Atlantis
> 59cm
> 3600
> Berkeley, CA
>
> https://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/bik/d/berkeley-rivendell-atlantis-59cm/7511867606.html
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Which Dyno Hub?

[Patrick Moore]

FWIW, Lael Wilcox, long-distance/rough terrain/all weather rider
extraordinaire, uses, or used to use a SP hub with her K-Lite. At least,
she used this setup when she broke the Continental Divide (or was it
cross-continental?) record.

I also use a SP with my K-Lite and I can't feel any drag or notchiness
compared to my SON 20R, but this may be due to the momentum or inertia of
the very tall and fat (29 1/2" X 2.4") -- albeit very light -- SP wheel
versus the short (25.6" X 1.6") -- also very light -- SON wheel.

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[RBW] Best dynamo headlight for road riding

[Patrick Moore]

I was going to yank the Best Dynamo Hub thread onto a tangent to suit my
own intents and purposes, but I forbore. So, a new question.

I have an Edeluxe I, have had it for 15 years or so, and it's a trooper,
but it has 2 defects:

1. The beam is rather narrow compared to later lights (and to the Edeluxe
II, I understand), and:

2. The standlight is a wimp: about 60 seconds before it turns into a
glow-worm for another 30 seconds and then goes out. (The 2015 K-Lite by
contrast still glows dimly after 5 or 6 hours; big capacitor.)

A few years ago I had a high-end (if there are levels, this was an
upper-class level model) but now (I think) discontinued headlight on my Hon
Solo that gave a brighter and broader beam than the EI, and had a normal
standlight -- 3 minutes or so.

So, 2 questions:

1. The best headlight without regarding anything but brightness, beam
width, and standlight longevity?

2. The best ditto made with a metal case? (For me, the metal case would be
a purely cosmetic advantage, but I like pretty.)

Thanks.

Since I just talked about the K-Lite: that's a wonderful off road light --
1200 lumens claimed on High -- but its beam does not have a height cutoff,
and since it is so very bright, it's impolite if not criminal to use it
regularly against oncoming bike traffic.



-- 

---
Patrick Moore
Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum

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[RBW] FS: Sackville Items

[Mitchie Fulfer]

Hello! I got some Sackville bags for sale.. let me know if you have any 
questions or want more pictures.. everything is in excellent condition.

https://photos.google.com/album/AF1QipMKWulA2fuZBrkASdfXTp_Q_24OVLef_HMam1d0

Platsack/Platrack - $180 shipped. 

Brown Trunksack - $80 shipped.
Olive Trunksack - $80 shipped.

If local to Bay Area (SF) we can work something out!

Thanks! Mitch 


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[RBW] Re: Sayonara Japan: A Farewell Tour

[ribz]

absolutely beautiful! glad you got to experience shikoku because most 
people never make it past the usual tokyo>kyoto>osaka destinations (which 
are the coolest cities on the planet btw, no exaggeration). 
On Monday, July 25, 2022 at 3:32:19 PM UTC-4 John Rinker wrote:

> Yes, Takashi, it would have been wonderful to ride together- two Hunqs 
> cruising the Kiso Mountains. Perhaps another time!
>
> Cheers,
> John
>
> On Monday, July 25, 2022 at 6:48:53 AM UTC-7 Takashi wrote:
>
>> So sad that I didn't have chance to meet you John.
>> I hope to have a ride together next time you come to Japan.
>>
>> Oh, and thank you for another great ride report and photos!
>> I've visited Shikoku once, and I agree about thickness of the air there.
>>
>> Takashi
>>
>>

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[RBW] Bike rack

[katherine Evanskbe]

Looking for recommendations to haul my Cheviot? 

Sent from my iPhone

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[RBW] Re: Homer 6 months review and questions

[Scotty H]

I'm not a bike designer, but the weight gain seems easy to understand. 
Extending the chainstays for more wheelbase means having to beef up the 
tubing. The trade-off for a "better" ride is more weight. In other words, 
if you flatten out the traditional diamond frame shape, you need heavier 
tubes to keep the same strength.

On Tuesday, July 26, 2022 at 12:14:06 AM UTC-4 atreya...@gmail.com wrote:

> I have had my homer for 6 months . After lot of experimenting , obsessing 
> qnd tweaking i am almost 99% there ( in the process I have a mini nitto 
> shop with almost all variations of handlebars !which I will try to find a 
> good home for when I get  to it ) . The more I tweak and better it 
> gets,  more I obsesss , funny how that works !
>
> I love this bike ! It is super comfortable but yet super responsive in 
> handling . I am invariably smiling and instantly in a good mood every time 
> I ride it even if just for 10 minutes! 
>
> It feels super nimble and responsive compared to my Atlantis ( which is my 
> first love and forever bike for different reasons ) and want to further 
> differentiate between the two .So this brings me to my question 
>
>1. Compared to my Atlantis it weighs just 4 lbs less (28 vs 32 ) . How 
>much of this handling difference is due to weight compared geometry and 
>tubing stiffness ? I am also pretty light weight between 160-165 lbs so 
>might be little more sensitive to weight changes on bike . 
>2. If it’s weight ? Is it worth to chase some more weight savings ? I 
>want to set it up as lightweight go around town for fun type of bike while 
>Atlantis would do longer touring/hauling , trails etc. I am surprised when 
>I see numbers close to 25lb or under . I have no racks or fenders , so 
>where can those weight saving come from ? I am not willing to sacrifice 
>comfort ( pedals and leather saddle ) and definitely not my kick stand :-) 
>. Below is my current set up 
>
> Size : 54.5 
>
> Wheels : pacenti brevet with son28 dynamo and 
>
> Tires : RH squanomie pass standard (tubeless)
>
> Shimano hub ( I have realized the use case for dynamo for my riding is 
> pretty limited so wouldn’t mind losing it ) .
>
> Crank : silver cranks 42-28 
>
> Brake set up : Paul racers and canti levers
>
> Cock pit : albatross bar , nitto talux stem .
>
>
> Appreciate your thoughts !
>
>  
>

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[RBW] Re: Best dynamo headlight for road riding

[Patrick Moore]

The nice bright (plastic) headlight on the Dahon was a Lumotec IQ something
or another, again, no longer made.

On Wed, Jul 27, 2022 at 2:37 PM Patrick Moore  wrote:

> ...  A few years ago I had a high-end (if there are levels, this was an
> upper-class level model) but now (I think) discontinued headlight on my Hon
> Solo that gave a brighter and broader beam than the EI, and had a normal
> standlight -- 3 minutes or so.
>

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Re: [RBW] Hillibikes are so close!

[James Valiensi]

Hi,
If the handlebar clamp on the stem is too loose the bars will slip and rotate 
in it. The bolt needs to be really tight.
You can tell if the headset is loose with this method:
1. stand in front of the bike
2. wrap one o your hands around the top nut, stem and top of the head tube
3. hold the front brake lever realy hard with the other hand
4. push the bike back and forth a bit
5. if the headset is loose you will feel the differ parts moving under the hand 
that is wrapped around the headset

Some of the longer bars are flexible. I have a Losco and it is so flexible that 
I quit using it.

Good luck!

> On Jul 29, 2022, at 4:51 AM, Daniel MacPherson  wrote:
> 
> Hey Everyone,
> 
> 
> 
> I’m having issues with my handlebar set-up. I’m running Nitto Technomic stem 
> with Billie bars. The Billie bars are 25.4. The Nitto stem is 26.0. I’m using 
> a problem solvers shim to fit the bars properly.
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, I get a lot of flex in the Billie bars when I apply any weight to the 
> bars. I’ve applied a lot of torque to the nut on the stem and it helps a bit 
> but doesn’t solve the issue. I’m worried it might be the headset; however the 
> headset appears tight and smooth. Have you guys experienced similar issues? 
> Thoughts?
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> 
> Daniel MacPherson
> 
> Tallahassee Florida
> 
> 
> On Thursday, July 14, 2022 at 8:06:16 PM UTC-4 fra...@gmail.com wrote:
> Good to know Daniel! I have the stock DXR pads on for now. Only have 100 
> miles or so and I still have no grind or squeal. Something I have been 
> annoyed with since going to disc brakes 15 or so years back. 
> On Thursday, July 14, 2022 at 11:44:03 AM UTC-7 Daniel MacPherson wrote:
> I fixed the squealing on my Susie by toeing in the Kool Stop pads just now.  
> It's worth the try if you are getting annoyed by the constant screech. 
> 
> 
> Sincerely, 
> 
> Daniel M
> 
> On Friday, June 24, 2022 at 8:07:10 AM UTC-4 Paul Clifton wrote:
> Good to know the Salmon pads squeal for lots of people. This isn't my first 
> fight with salmon pads on motolites, but it's the first time I asked about 
> it. I'll just swap out the pads like usual, and there will prob be a free for 
> shipping salmon pads post here once I get everything sorted out. I have at 
> least 2 sets to get rid of now.
> 
> Wally, the dual compound mountain pads are my go to. I haven't had any 
> problems with them squealing before. There must be something about the shape 
> of the thinlines that leads to the squeal.
> 
> Paul
> 
> On Friday, June 24, 2022 at 6:59:35 AM UTC-5 wallye...@gmail.com <> wrote:
> I'm running Paul Motolites and the Kool Stop mountain pads, in salmon, for my 
> Gus.  No issues for fit or squealing.
> 
> 
> On Friday, June 24, 2022 at 6:30:18 AM UTC-4 brendonoid wrote:
> I have found that the thin line salmons, when working, are great pads but by 
> far the fussiest to setup. Getting them to be quiet can require such 
> ludicrous amounts of toe-in that the pad wont last more than 1000 miles. One 
> trick that has worked previously worked is cleaning the pads themselves with 
> isopropyl and then with hot detergent water. Not one or the other. Both, in 
> that order.
> I am trying the grey cheapy pads that riv started selling with Neo-retros on 
> my Susie and the setup was painless, and the braking is far improved to my 
> previous experience with Neo-retros.
> Sometimes everything just works, sometimes It doesn't, and if I could tell 
> which was which in advance I'd never learn anything.
> 
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Re: [RBW] High bars at a club ride

[Patrick Moore]

I entirely agree that position or fit generally is the most important thing
in bike comfort and riding efficiently (yes, comfort is relative; but even
a pro will ride faster if he is more comfortable than if he is more
uncomfortable, and bad fit is probably the worst thing for comfort), and I
agree entirely too that the entire virtue of drop bars is that they offer
many different positions for comfort (yes, and efficiency, but believe me,
tucked into the hooks against a 25 mph headwind in a 70-something fixed
gear is a hell of a lot more comfortable than trying to buck that wind
while sitting upright).

But!! Tell me if I am right or wrong: I thought that the entire smorgasbord
of the many different Rivendell upright models came about precisely to give
more comfortable upright riding with multiple hand positions -- isn't this
right?

I've not used any non-drop Riv bar since the old Priest and original
edition Moustache bars, but I have been tempted to try an Albastache
precisely because **I thought** that this was an improvement in hand
positions and therefore comfort over the old Albatross and Moustache bars.

Anyone?

On Thu, Jul 28, 2022 at 2:51 PM George Schick  wrote:

>  Consider instead what Nick Payne so clearly underscores in his very
> accurate post above about the multi-position availability that the road
> bars offer a cyclist that upright or flat bars simply cannot.
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: 56+ before 55!

[Drew Saunders]

Those bottles came from Rivendell many (10? More?) years ago. 

Drew

> On Jul 29, 2022, at 6:27 AM, Chris Balaschak  wrote:
> 
> 
> Great ride report.
> 
> Can I ask - where did you find those water bottles?
>> On Friday, July 15, 2022 at 9:41:05 PM UTC-4 Drew Saunders wrote:
>> For the past few years, I've tried to ride my age or more on or about my 
>> birthday (this Sunday, the 17th, a.k.a. "World Emoji Day!"). Although not as 
>> impressive as crossing the country, it was still a good ride today.
>> 
>> In 2017, instead of riding 50+ miles for my 50th birthday, I spent my 
>> birthday in the hospital due to a bad reaction to Xeloda, my first 
>> chemotherapy drug. Oh, did I mention that in April of 2017 I found out that 
>> I had adenocarcinoma of the descending colon? I had the colectomy at the end 
>> of May, and started chemo at the end of June (and re-started it at the end 
>> of July with a different drug). That'll put a damper in your riding plans 
>> any day! 
>> 
>> I was able to do a 53 mile ride before turning 51 in 2018, and a 55 mile 
>> ride before turning 52 in 2019. I found my fitness dropping unexpectedly in 
>> 2020, but eventually figured out that it was due to working from home and no 
>> longer walking or biking to work (which is only 2 miles each way, but it 
>> adds up). I added a neighborhood walk to my morning routine and improved my 
>> fitness, but wasn't able to get in a 53+ mile ride for 2020. Then, in 
>> November 2020 (Friday the 13th, of course) I found out that my cancer had 
>> returned in a single tumor in my liver. That (along with 1/4 of my liver) 
>> was removed at the end of December.
>> 
>> 2021 was the year of regrowing my liver, so no long ride that July! I still 
>> got in some medium rides, but didn't make 54KM, much less 54 miles for any 
>> of them.
>> 
>> I set out this morning to do a variation on the same 53 and 55 mile ride I 
>> had done in 2018 and 2019, just with a little more at each end. For the 
>> locals, this is Cañada road to the end, then meander through Woodside, 
>> Portola Valley and Los Altos Hills, then Foothill Expressway/Steven's Canyon 
>> Road and turn around at the Lakeshore Picnic Area then home. It totaled 
>> 56.62 miles! Eventually, I'll have to switch to kilometers.
>> 
>> "Pics or it didn't happen":
>> 
>> The turnaround at Cañada Road and Hwy 92 (uppermost part of Lower Crystal 
>> Springs reservoir)
>> 
>> The famous Pulgas Water Temple from the fence (it looks better up close)
>> 
>> The Woodside Store, a fine place to stop for a snack and refill the bottles. 
>> The glowing blue stuff is Gatorade. That's a very early (Duluth patch) 
>> "banana bag" in the back and a "candy bar bag" in the front.
>> Last snack stop at Lakeshore Picnic Area selfie. Yes, Oscar is a 
>> Retrogrouch! His trash can is STEEL, not plastic!
>> 
>> Drew
> 
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Re: [RBW] Bike rack

[Bruce Baker]

1 up usa best rack going tried them all yakima, kuat, thule...1 up usa
hands down

On Fri, Jul 29, 2022 at 9:30 AM katherine Evanskbe 
wrote:

> Looking for recommendations to haul my Cheviot?
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
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> .
>

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Re: [RBW] Bike rack

[luckyturnip]

I’m always going to recommend the 1-up rack. Yes it’s very expensive. I finally 
gave in and bought one because we have such a variety of bike sizes in my 
household My only gripe is that it’s very heavy. (We do have the heavy duty 
version because some of the bikes are quite large/long). But I’m very happy 
with it (once it’s installed on the car). 

> On Jul 29, 2022, at 06:30, katherine Evanskbe  wrote:
> 
> Looking for recommendations to haul my Cheviot? 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
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Re: [RBW] Bike rack

[Jon Dukeman]

Depending on your vehicle
Siris. Freedom 2 .
It's a hitch rack.

On Fri, Jul 29, 2022, 7:30 AM katherine Evanskbe  wrote:

> Looking for recommendations to haul my Cheviot?
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> --
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> .
>

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Re: [RBW] Bike rack

[Jon Dukeman]

Siris is good if you have fenders.
Only weighs 25lb

On Fri, Jul 29, 2022, 7:38 AM Jon Dukeman  wrote:

> Depending on your vehicle
> Siris. Freedom 2 .
> It's a hitch rack.
>
> On Fri, Jul 29, 2022, 7:30 AM katherine Evanskbe 
> wrote:
>
>> Looking for recommendations to haul my Cheviot?
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> --
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>> "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an
>> email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
>> To view this discussion on the web visit
>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/DE0BF9FB-961D-4891-A52C-40DD5C4DF667%40gmail.com
>> .
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Hillibikes are so close!

[Brian Turner]

While not as aesthetically pleasing, you could try a threadless to quill
stem adapter and see if running a threadless stem with a wider clamping
area will fix your issue.

On Fri, Jul 29, 2022 at 9:30 AM James Valiensi  wrote:

> Hi,
> If the handlebar clamp on the stem is too loose the bars will slip and
> rotate in it. The bolt needs to be really tight.
> You can tell if the headset is loose with this method:
> 1. stand in front of the bike
> 2. wrap one o your hands around the top nut, stem and top of the head tube
> 3. hold the front brake lever realy hard with the other hand
> 4. push the bike back and forth a bit
> 5. if the headset is loose you will feel the differ parts moving under the
> hand that is wrapped around the headset
>
> Some of the longer bars are flexible. I have a Losco and it is so flexible
> that I quit using it.
>
> Good luck!
>
> On Jul 29, 2022, at 4:51 AM, Daniel MacPherson 
> wrote:
>
> Hey Everyone,
>
>
> I’m having issues with my handlebar set-up. I’m running Nitto Technomic
> stem with Billie bars. The Billie bars are 25.4. The Nitto stem is 26.0.
> I’m using a problem solvers shim to fit the bars properly.
>
>
> Anyway, I get a lot of flex in the Billie bars when I apply any weight to
> the bars. I’ve applied a lot of torque to the nut on the stem and it helps
> a bit but doesn’t solve the issue. I’m worried it might be the headset;
> however the headset appears tight and smooth. Have you guys experienced
> similar issues? Thoughts?
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
> Daniel MacPherson
>
> Tallahassee Florida
>
> On Thursday, July 14, 2022 at 8:06:16 PM UTC-4 fra...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> Good to know Daniel! I have the stock DXR pads on for now. Only have 100
>> miles or so and I still have no grind or squeal. Something I have been
>> annoyed with since going to disc brakes 15 or so years back.
>> On Thursday, July 14, 2022 at 11:44:03 AM UTC-7 Daniel MacPherson wrote:
>>
>>> I fixed the squealing on my Susie by toeing in the Kool Stop pads just
>>> now.  It's worth the try if you are getting annoyed by the constant
>>> screech.
>>>
>>>
>>> Sincerely,
>>>
>>> Daniel M
>>>
>>> On Friday, June 24, 2022 at 8:07:10 AM UTC-4 Paul Clifton wrote:
>>>
 Good to know the Salmon pads squeal for lots of people. This isn't my
 first fight with salmon pads on motolites, but it's the first time I asked
 about it. I'll just swap out the pads like usual, and there will prob be a
 free for shipping salmon pads post here once I get everything sorted out. I
 have at least 2 sets to get rid of now.

 Wally, the dual compound mountain pads are my go to. I haven't had any
 problems with them squealing before. There must be something about the
 shape of the thinlines that leads to the squeal.

 Paul

 On Friday, June 24, 2022 at 6:59:35 AM UTC-5 wallye...@gmail.com wrote:

> I'm running Paul Motolites and the Kool Stop mountain pads, in salmon,
> for my Gus.  No issues for fit or squealing.
>
>
> On Friday, June 24, 2022 at 6:30:18 AM UTC-4 brendonoid wrote:
>
>> I have found that the thin line salmons, when working, are great pads
>> but by far the fussiest to setup. Getting them to be quiet can require 
>> such
>> ludicrous amounts of toe-in that the pad wont last more than 1000 miles.
>> One trick that has worked previously worked is cleaning the pads 
>> themselves
>> with isopropyl and then with hot detergent water. Not one or the other.
>> Both, in that order.
>> I am trying the grey cheapy pads that riv started selling with
>> Neo-retros on my Susie and the setup was painless, and the braking is far
>> improved to my previous experience with Neo-retros.
>> Sometimes everything just works, sometimes It doesn't, and if I could
>> tell which was which in advance I'd never learn anything.
>>
>
> --
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> "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
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> email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
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> 
> .
>
>
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> 
> .
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Re: [RBW] Bike rack

[Colville]

Hollywood Racks make excellent racks that fit all types of bicycles, 
vintage to modern to everything in between.

https://hollywoodracks.com/

On Friday, July 29, 2022 at 9:42:30 AM UTC-4 row.n.2...@gmail.com wrote:

> Siris is good if you have fenders.
> Only weighs 25lb
>
> On Fri, Jul 29, 2022, 7:38 AM Jon Dukeman  wrote:
>
>> Depending on your vehicle
>> Siris. Freedom 2 . 
>> It's a hitch rack.
>>
>> On Fri, Jul 29, 2022, 7:30 AM katherine Evanskbe  
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Looking for recommendations to haul my Cheviot? 
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>
>>> -- 
>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google 
>>> Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
>>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send 
>>> an email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com.
>>> To view this discussion on the web visit 
>>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/DE0BF9FB-961D-4891-A52C-40DD5C4DF667%40gmail.com
>>> .
>>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Hillibikes are so close!

[Johnny Alien]

Daniel wrote: "I was thinking the Jim stem with the double bolt and uprise 
angle might solve the problem. Thoughts?"

I would think it would make a big improvement. The Billie bars are still 
wide bars with a fair amount of flex but moving to a stem like that made a 
big difference for me when I did it. I agree the amount of flex with my 
original Billie/Nitto tech setup was excessive.

On Friday, July 29, 2022 at 10:10:22 AM UTC-4 brok...@gmail.com wrote:

> While not as aesthetically pleasing, you could try a threadless to quill 
> stem adapter and see if running a threadless stem with a wider clamping 
> area will fix your issue.
>
> On Fri, Jul 29, 2022 at 9:30 AM James Valiensi  wrote:
>
>> Hi,
>> If the handlebar clamp on the stem is too loose the bars will slip and 
>> rotate in it. The bolt needs to be really tight.
>> You can tell if the headset is loose with this method:
>> 1. stand in front of the bike
>> 2. wrap one o your hands around the top nut, stem and top of the head tube
>> 3. hold the front brake lever realy hard with the other hand
>> 4. push the bike back and forth a bit
>> 5. if the headset is loose you will feel the differ parts moving under 
>> the hand that is wrapped around the headset
>>
>> Some of the longer bars are flexible. I have a Losco and it is so 
>> flexible that I quit using it.
>>
>> Good luck!
>>
>> On Jul 29, 2022, at 4:51 AM, Daniel MacPherson  
>> wrote:
>>
>> Hey Everyone,
>>
>>
>> I’m having issues with my handlebar set-up. I’m running Nitto Technomic 
>> stem with Billie bars. The Billie bars are 25.4. The Nitto stem is 26.0. 
>> I’m using a problem solvers shim to fit the bars properly.
>>
>>
>> Anyway, I get a lot of flex in the Billie bars when I apply any weight to 
>> the bars. I’ve applied a lot of torque to the nut on the stem and it helps 
>> a bit but doesn’t solve the issue. I’m worried it might be the headset; 
>> however the headset appears tight and smooth. Have you guys experienced 
>> similar issues? Thoughts?
>>
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>>
>> Daniel MacPherson
>>
>> Tallahassee Florida
>>
>> On Thursday, July 14, 2022 at 8:06:16 PM UTC-4 fra...@gmail.com wrote:
>>
>>> Good to know Daniel! I have the stock DXR pads on for now. Only have 100 
>>> miles or so and I still have no grind or squeal. Something I have been 
>>> annoyed with since going to disc brakes 15 or so years back. 
>>> On Thursday, July 14, 2022 at 11:44:03 AM UTC-7 Daniel MacPherson wrote:
>>>
 I fixed the squealing on my Susie by toeing in the Kool Stop pads just 
 now.  It's worth the try if you are getting annoyed by the constant 
 screech. 


 Sincerely, 

 Daniel M

 On Friday, June 24, 2022 at 8:07:10 AM UTC-4 Paul Clifton wrote:

> Good to know the Salmon pads squeal for lots of people. This isn't my 
> first fight with salmon pads on motolites, but it's the first time I 
> asked 
> about it. I'll just swap out the pads like usual, and there will prob be 
> a 
> free for shipping salmon pads post here once I get everything sorted out. 
> I 
> have at least 2 sets to get rid of now.
>
> Wally, the dual compound mountain pads are my go to. I haven't had any 
> problems with them squealing before. There must be something about the 
> shape of the thinlines that leads to the squeal.
>
> Paul
>
> On Friday, June 24, 2022 at 6:59:35 AM UTC-5 wallye...@gmail.com 
> wrote:
>
>> I'm running Paul Motolites and the Kool Stop mountain pads, in 
>> salmon, for my Gus.  No issues for fit or squealing.
>>
>>
>> On Friday, June 24, 2022 at 6:30:18 AM UTC-4 brendonoid wrote:
>>
>>> I have found that the thin line salmons, when working, are great 
>>> pads but by far the fussiest to setup. Getting them to be quiet can 
>>> require 
>>> such ludicrous amounts of toe-in that the pad wont last more than 1000 
>>> miles. One trick that has worked previously worked is cleaning the pads 
>>> themselves with isopropyl and then with hot detergent water. Not one or 
>>> the 
>>> other. Both, in that order.
>>> I am trying the grey cheapy pads that riv started selling with 
>>> Neo-retros on my Susie and the setup was painless, and the braking is 
>>> far 
>>> improved to my previous experience with Neo-retros.
>>> Sometimes everything just works, sometimes It doesn't, and if I 
>>> could tell which was which in advance I'd never learn anything.
>>>
>>
>> -- 
>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
>> "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an 
>> email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com.
>> To view this discussion on the web visit 
>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/16f6fbec-b780-4b80-9376-0598719343d9n%40googlegroups.com
>>  
>> 

Re: [RBW] Hillibikes are so close!

[Daniel MacPherson]

Of course, the Jim stem is sold out. Anyone have a 120mm Jim Stem for sale? 
I might get a cheapo off Ebay and see if that works then buyer a nicer one 
later. I will do the headset test as well. I've had an experienced mechanic 
set-up the headset so I'm pretty confident that it is not the problem. 

On Friday, July 29, 2022 at 10:15:26 AM UTC-4 Johnny Alien wrote:

> Daniel wrote: "I was thinking the Jim stem with the double bolt and uprise 
> angle might solve the problem. Thoughts?"
>
> I would think it would make a big improvement. The Billie bars are still 
> wide bars with a fair amount of flex but moving to a stem like that made a 
> big difference for me when I did it. I agree the amount of flex with my 
> original Billie/Nitto tech setup was excessive.
>
> On Friday, July 29, 2022 at 10:10:22 AM UTC-4 brok...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> While not as aesthetically pleasing, you could try a threadless to quill 
>> stem adapter and see if running a threadless stem with a wider clamping 
>> area will fix your issue.
>>
>> On Fri, Jul 29, 2022 at 9:30 AM James Valiensi  
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Hi,
>>> If the handlebar clamp on the stem is too loose the bars will slip and 
>>> rotate in it. The bolt needs to be really tight.
>>> You can tell if the headset is loose with this method:
>>> 1. stand in front of the bike
>>> 2. wrap one o your hands around the top nut, stem and top of the head 
>>> tube
>>> 3. hold the front brake lever realy hard with the other hand
>>> 4. push the bike back and forth a bit
>>> 5. if the headset is loose you will feel the differ parts moving under 
>>> the hand that is wrapped around the headset
>>>
>>> Some of the longer bars are flexible. I have a Losco and it is so 
>>> flexible that I quit using it.
>>>
>>> Good luck!
>>>
>>> On Jul 29, 2022, at 4:51 AM, Daniel MacPherson  
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>> Hey Everyone,
>>>
>>>
>>> I’m having issues with my handlebar set-up. I’m running Nitto Technomic 
>>> stem with Billie bars. The Billie bars are 25.4. The Nitto stem is 26.0. 
>>> I’m using a problem solvers shim to fit the bars properly.
>>>
>>>
>>> Anyway, I get a lot of flex in the Billie bars when I apply any weight 
>>> to the bars. I’ve applied a lot of torque to the nut on the stem and it 
>>> helps a bit but doesn’t solve the issue. I’m worried it might be the 
>>> headset; however the headset appears tight and smooth. Have you guys 
>>> experienced similar issues? Thoughts?
>>>
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>>
>>>
>>> Daniel MacPherson
>>>
>>> Tallahassee Florida
>>>
>>> On Thursday, July 14, 2022 at 8:06:16 PM UTC-4 fra...@gmail.com wrote:
>>>
 Good to know Daniel! I have the stock DXR pads on for now. Only have 
 100 miles or so and I still have no grind or squeal. Something I have been 
 annoyed with since going to disc brakes 15 or so years back. 
 On Thursday, July 14, 2022 at 11:44:03 AM UTC-7 Daniel MacPherson wrote:

> I fixed the squealing on my Susie by toeing in the Kool Stop pads just 
> now.  It's worth the try if you are getting annoyed by the constant 
> screech. 
>
>
> Sincerely, 
>
> Daniel M
>
> On Friday, June 24, 2022 at 8:07:10 AM UTC-4 Paul Clifton wrote:
>
>> Good to know the Salmon pads squeal for lots of people. This isn't my 
>> first fight with salmon pads on motolites, but it's the first time I 
>> asked 
>> about it. I'll just swap out the pads like usual, and there will prob be 
>> a 
>> free for shipping salmon pads post here once I get everything sorted 
>> out. I 
>> have at least 2 sets to get rid of now.
>>
>> Wally, the dual compound mountain pads are my go to. I haven't had 
>> any problems with them squealing before. There must be something about 
>> the 
>> shape of the thinlines that leads to the squeal.
>>
>> Paul
>>
>> On Friday, June 24, 2022 at 6:59:35 AM UTC-5 wallye...@gmail.com 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> I'm running Paul Motolites and the Kool Stop mountain pads, in 
>>> salmon, for my Gus.  No issues for fit or squealing.
>>>
>>>
>>> On Friday, June 24, 2022 at 6:30:18 AM UTC-4 brendonoid wrote:
>>>
 I have found that the thin line salmons, when working, are great 
 pads but by far the fussiest to setup. Getting them to be quiet can 
 require 
 such ludicrous amounts of toe-in that the pad wont last more than 1000 
 miles. One trick that has worked previously worked is cleaning the 
 pads 
 themselves with isopropyl and then with hot detergent water. Not one 
 or the 
 other. Both, in that order.
 I am trying the grey cheapy pads that riv started selling with 
 Neo-retros on my Susie and the setup was painless, and the braking is 
 far 
 improved to my previous experience with Neo-retros.
 Sometimes everything just works, sometimes It doesn't, and if I 
 could tell which was whi

Re: [RBW] Re: Best dynamo headlight for road riding

[Brian Turner]

My only dyno headlight experience is with the Sinewave Beacon. I mention it
because it seems to address your two questions. It ticks a lot of boxes for
me, but after 2.5 years of hard use with it, I can't say it has lived fully
up to the expectations I had for it.

Pros: Made in USA, waterproof, all metal construction, can be mounted
upside-down, is tremendously bright, has a standlight that glows for hours,
is pre-wired for a taillight, can be powered by a battery bank, can charge
devices via a waterproof USB port

Despite all the pros, two things have disappointed me. First, the beam
pattern is more suited for off-road riding. It just blasts a big round beam
of light directly in front of you. No focused beam pattern for riding in
traffic. Secondly, I'm not sure if my light is faulty, or if it's user
error, but I find the USB charging capability pretty much useless. I can
plug my phone into it and ride 20-30 miles at 12-14mph and the battery may
only go up 1-2% from where it was when I plugged it in. I've heard folks
say it is best used to trickle-charge a battery bank, but my battery bank
is so large, and takes so long to charge up when plugged into a wall
outlet, I don't think I would ever know whether or not the Sinewave was
even charging it at all.

On Fri, Jul 29, 2022 at 9:30 AM Patrick Moore  wrote:

> The nice bright (plastic) headlight on the Dahon was a Lumotec IQ
> something or another, again, no longer made.
>
> On Wed, Jul 27, 2022 at 2:37 PM Patrick Moore  wrote:
>
>> ...  A few years ago I had a high-end (if there are levels, this was an
>> upper-class level model) but now (I think) discontinued headlight on my Hon
>> Solo that gave a brighter and broader beam than the EI, and had a normal
>> standlight -- 3 minutes or so.
>>
>
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> 
> .
>

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Re: [RBW] Bike rack

[Brian Turner]

If I was starting from scratch, I would probably go for the 1-Up racks that
so many folks here recommend. Yeah, they look heavy a bit clunky, but they
really do seem the best fit for all variety of bikes, especially the
larger, longer wheelbase bikes and bikes adorned with racks, fenders,
baskets, etc.

I really love my Kuat NV 2.0 Base, but there are limitations to it. If your
wheelbase is over 50", they won't fit on a Kuat. That would immediately
exclude the L-XL Susie / Gus bikes. My medium Gus fits, but just barely.

On Fri, Jul 29, 2022 at 10:11 AM Colville  wrote:

> Hollywood Racks make excellent racks that fit all types of bicycles,
> vintage to modern to everything in between.
>
> https://hollywoodracks.com/
>
> On Friday, July 29, 2022 at 9:42:30 AM UTC-4 row.n.2...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> Siris is good if you have fenders.
>> Only weighs 25lb
>>
>> On Fri, Jul 29, 2022, 7:38 AM Jon Dukeman  wrote:
>>
>>> Depending on your vehicle
>>> Siris. Freedom 2 .
>>> It's a hitch rack.
>>>
>>> On Fri, Jul 29, 2022, 7:30 AM katherine Evanskbe 
>>> wrote:
>>>
 Looking for recommendations to haul my Cheviot?

 Sent from my iPhone

 --
 You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google
 Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
 To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send
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 To view this discussion on the web visit
 https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/DE0BF9FB-961D-4891-A52C-40DD5C4DF667%40gmail.com
 .

>>> --
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> 
> .
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Re: [RBW] Re: Which Dyno Hub?

[Jacob Lopez]

I'm surprised I don't see more love for the Kasai hubs.  I have a Kasai hub 
and Kasai Trail Beam on my Clem and I love it, although I don't have a 
reference for other systems.  It's a relatively affordable combo.  It was 
my first-ever dyno hub/light setup and I absolutely love that for the first 
time I can actually see the road at night - not to mention not having to 
remember to charge lights. I always loved night riding, and now I love it 
even more.  Regardless of perfect optimization, welcome to the world of 
dyno hubs.  It's a magnificent place to be, and I'm sure you'll be stoked 
with any of these recommendations.

Jacob

On Friday, July 29, 2022 at 6:30:02 AM UTC-7 Patrick Moore wrote:

> FWIW, Lael Wilcox, long-distance/rough terrain/all weather rider 
> extraordinaire, uses, or used to use a SP hub with her K-Lite. At least, 
> she used this setup when she broke the Continental Divide (or was it 
> cross-continental?) record.
>
> I also use a SP with my K-Lite and I can't feel any drag or notchiness 
> compared to my SON 20R, but this may be due to the momentum or inertia of 
> the very tall and fat (29 1/2" X 2.4") -- albeit very light -- SP wheel 
> versus the short (25.6" X 1.6") -- also very light -- SON wheel.
>

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[RBW] Re: Bike rack

[Chris L]

I have the 1-UP heavy duty (I think...at least it's the one with the larger 
hitch insert) and it was well worth the price I paid for it.  For the first 
time since 1995, I can carry a bike on the back of my vehicle without 
giving a second thought to whether it's flapping in the wind or going to 
somehow come unattached and fall off.  Also, mounting and dismounting a 
bike literally takes seconds.  

I think mine weighs 28 lbs, but because of it's size and shape, it feels 
much heavier than that.  Still, I could probably unlock it, loosen it and 
remove it from my car in a couple of minutes.  Most of that time would be 
from having to get on the ground to access the lock securing it to the 
hitch. 

On Friday, July 29, 2022 at 8:30:39 AM UTC-5 kbe...@gmail.com wrote:

> Looking for recommendations to haul my Cheviot? 
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>

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[RBW] Re: Items for Sale

[tdusky]

The Brooks Pro, Tent, Campy Crankset and the Nitto Pearl Stem have been sold
Thanks 
On Tuesday, July 26, 2022 at 1:54:10 PM UTC-4 tdusky wrote:

> I am doing a 650B conversion and need funds.  everything is in excellent 
> condition.
>
> Ask for photos or more information
>
> Brooks Professional Saddle 1971, $70 excellent condition 
>
> Campy Nuvo Record brake calipers. Standard reach, nutted. $80
>
> Campy Nuvo Record brake calipers. Short reach, recessed. $80
>
> Phil Wood 135mm rear hub 36 hole Shimano compatible excellent condition 
> $175
>
> Phil Wood 120mm rear hub 36 hole good condition $75
>
> Shimano Deore Xt front hub 36 hole $20
>
> American Classic 130mm rear hub freewheel 28 hole (smooth) $10
>
> Campagnolo Centaur Century Gray Triple Crankset * 175mm * 50/40/30 NOS $60
>
> Nitto Pearl Stem 70 mm 22.2 mm 26 mm $35
>
> Nitto Technomic Stem 80 mm  22.2 mm 26 mm $30
>
> Tarptent Contrail ultralight tent 1p 3 season  $100
>
> Honjo fenders 700c Hammered 37mm wide With hardware front leather mudflap 
> and rear light, good for tires up to 28mm $50
>
> Shimano front derailleur 31.8mm clamp bottom pull NOS $15
>
> Shimano dura ace PD-7401 look compatible pedals $25
>
> 1972 Lygie, 65 cm frame Reynolds 531 DB with Campy Super Record Headset 
> installed $275
>
> Ask for photos or more information Shipping from Huntington Woods MI
>
> Thanks for looking
>
> Tom Dusky
>
> Huntington Woods MI
>

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Re: [RBW] Hillibikes are so close!

[Ryan Frahm]

>From what I remember reading, the Billie is recommended to use with a 
faceplate stem. The Technomic has a lot of flex. I’m running the Jim on 
mine with Bosco bars and the flex is not bad, just enough to take the sting 
out of things. Definitely recommend trying a cheap one and getting 
something nicer when they show up, hopefully soon…

I’m waiting for a 135 Faceplater to replace my 100 Jim. And also maybe 
waiting for the Billie to be able to stretch out more.  Hopefully parts 
become more available again one day!

On Friday, July 29, 2022 at 7:30:52 AM UTC-7 Daniel MacPherson wrote:

> Of course, the Jim stem is sold out. Anyone have a 120mm Jim Stem for 
> sale? I might get a cheapo off Ebay and see if that works then buyer a 
> nicer one later. I will do the headset test as well. I've had an 
> experienced mechanic set-up the headset so I'm pretty confident that it is 
> not the problem. 
>
> On Friday, July 29, 2022 at 10:15:26 AM UTC-4 Johnny Alien wrote:
>
>> Daniel wrote: "I was thinking the Jim stem with the double bolt and 
>> uprise angle might solve the problem. Thoughts?"
>>
>> I would think it would make a big improvement. The Billie bars are still 
>> wide bars with a fair amount of flex but moving to a stem like that made a 
>> big difference for me when I did it. I agree the amount of flex with my 
>> original Billie/Nitto tech setup was excessive.
>>
>> On Friday, July 29, 2022 at 10:10:22 AM UTC-4 brok...@gmail.com wrote:
>>
>>> While not as aesthetically pleasing, you could try a threadless to quill 
>>> stem adapter and see if running a threadless stem with a wider clamping 
>>> area will fix your issue.
>>>
>>> On Fri, Jul 29, 2022 at 9:30 AM James Valiensi  
>>> wrote:
>>>
 Hi,
 If the handlebar clamp on the stem is too loose the bars will slip and 
 rotate in it. The bolt needs to be really tight.
 You can tell if the headset is loose with this method:
 1. stand in front of the bike
 2. wrap one o your hands around the top nut, stem and top of the head 
 tube
 3. hold the front brake lever realy hard with the other hand
 4. push the bike back and forth a bit
 5. if the headset is loose you will feel the differ parts moving under 
 the hand that is wrapped around the headset

 Some of the longer bars are flexible. I have a Losco and it is so 
 flexible that I quit using it.

 Good luck!

 On Jul 29, 2022, at 4:51 AM, Daniel MacPherson  
 wrote:

 Hey Everyone,


 I’m having issues with my handlebar set-up. I’m running Nitto Technomic 
 stem with Billie bars. The Billie bars are 25.4. The Nitto stem is 26.0. 
 I’m using a problem solvers shim to fit the bars properly.


 Anyway, I get a lot of flex in the Billie bars when I apply any weight 
 to the bars. I’ve applied a lot of torque to the nut on the stem and it 
 helps a bit but doesn’t solve the issue. I’m worried it might be the 
 headset; however the headset appears tight and smooth. Have you guys 
 experienced similar issues? Thoughts?


 Thanks,


 Daniel MacPherson

 Tallahassee Florida

 On Thursday, July 14, 2022 at 8:06:16 PM UTC-4 fra...@gmail.com wrote:

> Good to know Daniel! I have the stock DXR pads on for now. Only have 
> 100 miles or so and I still have no grind or squeal. Something I have 
> been 
> annoyed with since going to disc brakes 15 or so years back. 
> On Thursday, July 14, 2022 at 11:44:03 AM UTC-7 Daniel MacPherson 
> wrote:
>
>> I fixed the squealing on my Susie by toeing in the Kool Stop pads 
>> just now.  It's worth the try if you are getting annoyed by the constant 
>> screech. 
>>
>>
>> Sincerely, 
>>
>> Daniel M
>>
>> On Friday, June 24, 2022 at 8:07:10 AM UTC-4 Paul Clifton wrote:
>>
>>> Good to know the Salmon pads squeal for lots of people. This isn't 
>>> my first fight with salmon pads on motolites, but it's the first time I 
>>> asked about it. I'll just swap out the pads like usual, and there will 
>>> prob 
>>> be a free for shipping salmon pads post here once I get everything 
>>> sorted 
>>> out. I have at least 2 sets to get rid of now.
>>>
>>> Wally, the dual compound mountain pads are my go to. I haven't had 
>>> any problems with them squealing before. There must be something about 
>>> the 
>>> shape of the thinlines that leads to the squeal.
>>>
>>> Paul
>>>
>>> On Friday, June 24, 2022 at 6:59:35 AM UTC-5 wallye...@gmail.com 
>>> wrote:
>>>
 I'm running Paul Motolites and the Kool Stop mountain pads, in 
 salmon, for my Gus.  No issues for fit or squealing.


 On Friday, June 24, 2022 at 6:30:18 AM UTC-4 brendonoid wrote:

> I have found that the thin line salmons, when working, are great 
> pads but

[RBW] Re: Bike rack

[Jan O.]

I have a 1UP USA rack as well and love it. I have used it with a long 
wheelbase MIT Atlantis and now with an Hunqapillar and it works perfectly. 

On Friday, July 29, 2022 at 6:30:39 AM UTC-7 kbe...@gmail.com wrote:

> Looking for recommendations to haul my Cheviot? 
>
> Sent from my iPhone 
>

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Re: [RBW] Bike rack

[Joe Mullins]

1up all the way. But if you live in Los Angeles don’t trust the lock and 
special Allen key that come with them. We have thieves here who can get them 
off your hitch without leaving a mark. I had a U-lock around mine andthe hitch 
for years and two weeks with it only locked up with the stock lock and it was 
gone. I’ve read stories about them getting stolen at trail heads (not sure 
where) and that’s what originally prompted me to lock them up more. 

> On Jul 29, 2022, at 7:48 AM, Brian Turner  wrote:
> 
> 
> If I was starting from scratch, I would probably go for the 1-Up racks that 
> so many folks here recommend. Yeah, they look heavy a bit clunky, but they 
> really do seem the best fit for all variety of bikes, especially the larger, 
> longer wheelbase bikes and bikes adorned with racks, fenders, baskets, etc.
> 
> I really love my Kuat NV 2.0 Base, but there are limitations to it. If your 
> wheelbase is over 50", they won't fit on a Kuat. That would immediately 
> exclude the L-XL Susie / Gus bikes. My medium Gus fits, but just barely.
> 
>> On Fri, Jul 29, 2022 at 10:11 AM Colville  wrote:
>> Hollywood Racks make excellent racks that fit all types of bicycles, vintage 
>> to modern to everything in between.
>> 
>> https://hollywoodracks.com/
>> 
>>> On Friday, July 29, 2022 at 9:42:30 AM UTC-4 row.n.2...@gmail.com wrote:
>>> Siris is good if you have fenders.
>>> Only weighs 25lb
>>> 
 On Fri, Jul 29, 2022, 7:38 AM Jon Dukeman  wrote:
 Depending on your vehicle
 Siris. Freedom 2 . 
 It's a hitch rack.
 
> On Fri, Jul 29, 2022, 7:30 AM katherine Evanskbe  wrote:
> Looking for recommendations to haul my Cheviot? 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> -- 
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>> 
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Re: [RBW] Hillibikes are so close!

[Johnny Alien]

This is a nice Nitto stem and comes out to a touch cheaper than the Jim 
stem even with shipping from Japan.  I have ordered a bunch from this store 
and it always shipped quickly.

https://alexscycle.com/products/nitto-mcr22-quill-stem?variant=42762195501290

On Friday, July 29, 2022 at 11:39:07 AM UTC-4 fra...@gmail.com wrote:

> From what I remember reading, the Billie is recommended to use with a 
> faceplate stem. The Technomic has a lot of flex. I’m running the Jim on 
> mine with Bosco bars and the flex is not bad, just enough to take the sting 
> out of things. Definitely recommend trying a cheap one and getting 
> something nicer when they show up, hopefully soon…
>
> I’m waiting for a 135 Faceplater to replace my 100 Jim. And also maybe 
> waiting for the Billie to be able to stretch out more.  Hopefully parts 
> become more available again one day!
>
> On Friday, July 29, 2022 at 7:30:52 AM UTC-7 Daniel MacPherson wrote:
>
>> Of course, the Jim stem is sold out. Anyone have a 120mm Jim Stem for 
>> sale? I might get a cheapo off Ebay and see if that works then buyer a 
>> nicer one later. I will do the headset test as well. I've had an 
>> experienced mechanic set-up the headset so I'm pretty confident that it is 
>> not the problem. 
>>
>> On Friday, July 29, 2022 at 10:15:26 AM UTC-4 Johnny Alien wrote:
>>
>>> Daniel wrote: "I was thinking the Jim stem with the double bolt and 
>>> uprise angle might solve the problem. Thoughts?"
>>>
>>> I would think it would make a big improvement. The Billie bars are still 
>>> wide bars with a fair amount of flex but moving to a stem like that made a 
>>> big difference for me when I did it. I agree the amount of flex with my 
>>> original Billie/Nitto tech setup was excessive.
>>>
>>> On Friday, July 29, 2022 at 10:10:22 AM UTC-4 brok...@gmail.com wrote:
>>>
 While not as aesthetically pleasing, you could try a threadless to 
 quill stem adapter and see if running a threadless stem with a wider 
 clamping area will fix your issue.

 On Fri, Jul 29, 2022 at 9:30 AM James Valiensi  
 wrote:

> Hi,
> If the handlebar clamp on the stem is too loose the bars will slip and 
> rotate in it. The bolt needs to be really tight.
> You can tell if the headset is loose with this method:
> 1. stand in front of the bike
> 2. wrap one o your hands around the top nut, stem and top of the head 
> tube
> 3. hold the front brake lever realy hard with the other hand
> 4. push the bike back and forth a bit
> 5. if the headset is loose you will feel the differ parts moving under 
> the hand that is wrapped around the headset
>
> Some of the longer bars are flexible. I have a Losco and it is so 
> flexible that I quit using it.
>
> Good luck!
>
> On Jul 29, 2022, at 4:51 AM, Daniel MacPherson  
> wrote:
>
> Hey Everyone,
>
>
> I’m having issues with my handlebar set-up. I’m running Nitto 
> Technomic stem with Billie bars. The Billie bars are 25.4. The Nitto stem 
> is 26.0. I’m using a problem solvers shim to fit the bars properly.
>
>
> Anyway, I get a lot of flex in the Billie bars when I apply any weight 
> to the bars. I’ve applied a lot of torque to the nut on the stem and it 
> helps a bit but doesn’t solve the issue. I’m worried it might be the 
> headset; however the headset appears tight and smooth. Have you guys 
> experienced similar issues? Thoughts?
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
> Daniel MacPherson
>
> Tallahassee Florida
>
> On Thursday, July 14, 2022 at 8:06:16 PM UTC-4 fra...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> Good to know Daniel! I have the stock DXR pads on for now. Only have 
>> 100 miles or so and I still have no grind or squeal. Something I have 
>> been 
>> annoyed with since going to disc brakes 15 or so years back. 
>> On Thursday, July 14, 2022 at 11:44:03 AM UTC-7 Daniel MacPherson 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> I fixed the squealing on my Susie by toeing in the Kool Stop pads 
>>> just now.  It's worth the try if you are getting annoyed by the 
>>> constant 
>>> screech. 
>>>
>>>
>>> Sincerely, 
>>>
>>> Daniel M
>>>
>>> On Friday, June 24, 2022 at 8:07:10 AM UTC-4 Paul Clifton wrote:
>>>
 Good to know the Salmon pads squeal for lots of people. This isn't 
 my first fight with salmon pads on motolites, but it's the first time 
 I 
 asked about it. I'll just swap out the pads like usual, and there will 
 prob 
 be a free for shipping salmon pads post here once I get everything 
 sorted 
 out. I have at least 2 sets to get rid of now.

 Wally, the dual compound mountain pads are my go to. I haven't had 
 any problems with them squealing before. There must be something about 
 the 
 shape of the thinlines that leads

Re: [RBW] Hillibikes are so close!

[Ryan Frahm]

Thank you for that Johnny! 

On Friday, July 29, 2022 at 9:01:21 AM UTC-7 Johnny Alien wrote:

> This is a nice Nitto stem and comes out to a touch cheaper than the Jim 
> stem even with shipping from Japan.  I have ordered a bunch from this store 
> and it always shipped quickly.
>
>
> https://alexscycle.com/products/nitto-mcr22-quill-stem?variant=42762195501290
>
> On Friday, July 29, 2022 at 11:39:07 AM UTC-4 fra...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> From what I remember reading, the Billie is recommended to use with a 
>> faceplate stem. The Technomic has a lot of flex. I’m running the Jim on 
>> mine with Bosco bars and the flex is not bad, just enough to take the sting 
>> out of things. Definitely recommend trying a cheap one and getting 
>> something nicer when they show up, hopefully soon…
>>
>> I’m waiting for a 135 Faceplater to replace my 100 Jim. And also maybe 
>> waiting for the Billie to be able to stretch out more.  Hopefully parts 
>> become more available again one day!
>>
>> On Friday, July 29, 2022 at 7:30:52 AM UTC-7 Daniel MacPherson wrote:
>>
>>> Of course, the Jim stem is sold out. Anyone have a 120mm Jim Stem for 
>>> sale? I might get a cheapo off Ebay and see if that works then buyer a 
>>> nicer one later. I will do the headset test as well. I've had an 
>>> experienced mechanic set-up the headset so I'm pretty confident that it is 
>>> not the problem. 
>>>
>>> On Friday, July 29, 2022 at 10:15:26 AM UTC-4 Johnny Alien wrote:
>>>
 Daniel wrote: "I was thinking the Jim stem with the double bolt and 
 uprise angle might solve the problem. Thoughts?"

 I would think it would make a big improvement. The Billie bars are 
 still wide bars with a fair amount of flex but moving to a stem like that 
 made a big difference for me when I did it. I agree the amount of flex 
 with 
 my original Billie/Nitto tech setup was excessive.

 On Friday, July 29, 2022 at 10:10:22 AM UTC-4 brok...@gmail.com wrote:

> While not as aesthetically pleasing, you could try a threadless to 
> quill stem adapter and see if running a threadless stem with a wider 
> clamping area will fix your issue.
>
> On Fri, Jul 29, 2022 at 9:30 AM James Valiensi  
> wrote:
>
>> Hi,
>> If the handlebar clamp on the stem is too loose the bars will slip 
>> and rotate in it. The bolt needs to be really tight.
>> You can tell if the headset is loose with this method:
>> 1. stand in front of the bike
>> 2. wrap one o your hands around the top nut, stem and top of the head 
>> tube
>> 3. hold the front brake lever realy hard with the other hand
>> 4. push the bike back and forth a bit
>> 5. if the headset is loose you will feel the differ parts moving 
>> under the hand that is wrapped around the headset
>>
>> Some of the longer bars are flexible. I have a Losco and it is so 
>> flexible that I quit using it.
>>
>> Good luck!
>>
>> On Jul 29, 2022, at 4:51 AM, Daniel MacPherson  
>> wrote:
>>
>> Hey Everyone,
>>
>>
>> I’m having issues with my handlebar set-up. I’m running Nitto 
>> Technomic stem with Billie bars. The Billie bars are 25.4. The Nitto 
>> stem 
>> is 26.0. I’m using a problem solvers shim to fit the bars properly.
>>
>>
>> Anyway, I get a lot of flex in the Billie bars when I apply any 
>> weight to the bars. I’ve applied a lot of torque to the nut on the stem 
>> and 
>> it helps a bit but doesn’t solve the issue. I’m worried it might be the 
>> headset; however the headset appears tight and smooth. Have you guys 
>> experienced similar issues? Thoughts?
>>
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>>
>> Daniel MacPherson
>>
>> Tallahassee Florida
>>
>> On Thursday, July 14, 2022 at 8:06:16 PM UTC-4 fra...@gmail.com 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Good to know Daniel! I have the stock DXR pads on for now. Only have 
>>> 100 miles or so and I still have no grind or squeal. Something I have 
>>> been 
>>> annoyed with since going to disc brakes 15 or so years back. 
>>> On Thursday, July 14, 2022 at 11:44:03 AM UTC-7 Daniel MacPherson 
>>> wrote:
>>>
 I fixed the squealing on my Susie by toeing in the Kool Stop pads 
 just now.  It's worth the try if you are getting annoyed by the 
 constant 
 screech. 


 Sincerely, 

 Daniel M

 On Friday, June 24, 2022 at 8:07:10 AM UTC-4 Paul Clifton wrote:

> Good to know the Salmon pads squeal for lots of people. This isn't 
> my first fight with salmon pads on motolites, but it's the first time 
> I 
> asked about it. I'll just swap out the pads like usual, and there 
> will prob 
> be a free for shipping salmon pads post here once I get everything 
> sorted 
> out. I have at least 2

Re: [RBW] High bars at a club ride

[Wesley]

I have an Albastache on an old road bike frame, and an albatross on an old 
MTB all-purpose tank. The albastache is great! compared to the albatross, 
it is more comfortable to grab the curve because it conforms to a natural 
arm posture with the pinky lower than the index (which is opposite to the 
rise on the albatross.) The albastache lacks an equivalent position to the 
drops on a drop bar, but over the years I've found that I never get into 
the drops, anyway. If that doesn't bother you and if your body is like 
mine, then you'll find that the positions it does have are more comfortable 
than their drop-bar equivalents.
-W

On Friday, July 29, 2022 at 6:30:40 AM UTC-7 Patrick Moore wrote:

> I entirely agree that position or fit generally is the most important 
> thing in bike comfort and riding efficiently (yes, comfort is relative; but 
> even a pro will ride faster if he is more comfortable than if he is more 
> uncomfortable, and bad fit is probably the worst thing for comfort), and I 
> agree entirely too that the entire virtue of drop bars is that they offer 
> many different positions for comfort (yes, and efficiency, but believe me, 
> tucked into the hooks against a 25 mph headwind in a 70-something fixed 
> gear is a hell of a lot more comfortable than trying to buck that wind 
> while sitting upright). 
>
> But!! Tell me if I am right or wrong: I thought that the entire 
> smorgasbord of the many different Rivendell upright models came about 
> precisely to give more comfortable upright riding with multiple hand 
> positions -- isn't this right?
>
> I've not used any non-drop Riv bar since the old Priest and original 
> edition Moustache bars, but I have been tempted to try an Albastache 
> precisely because **I thought** that this was an improvement in hand 
> positions and therefore comfort over the old Albatross and Moustache bars. 
>
> Anyone?
>
> On Thu, Jul 28, 2022 at 2:51 PM George Schick  wrote:
>
>>  Consider instead what Nick Payne so clearly underscores in his very 
>> accurate post above about the multi-position availability that the road 
>> bars offer a cyclist that upright or flat bars simply cannot.
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Hillibikes are so close!

[Bill Lindsay]

Here are some relative truths:

1. 1-1/8" quill stems are stiffer than 1" quill stems
2. steel quill stems are stiffer than aluminum quill stems
3. Stems with a shorter extension are stiffer than similar stems with a 
longer extension
4. straight handlebars are stiffer than swept back handlebars
5. among swept back bars, bars with less sweep back are stiffer than bars 
with more sweep back
6. 31.8mm handlebars are stiffer than 25.4mm handlebars
7. steel handlebars are stiffer than aluminum handlebars
8. handlebars fitted to the right sized stem are stiffer than handlebars 
shimmed into the next size larger
9. bullmoose is stiffer than separate handlebar and stem setups.  

As far as I understand it, Daniel's handlebar setup is employing the 
"flexier" choice in all 9 of the above.  So there's a lot of ways to 
improve things.  The most "night and day" experience I've had on this front 
was on Doug's Clem.  Doug hated the flex.  It was a technomic stem and 
aluminum boscos.  I set him up with a bullmoose Choco, and he was instantly 
over the moon about it.  

Bill Lindsay
El Cerrito, CA

On Friday, July 29, 2022 at 8:39:07 AM UTC-7 fra...@gmail.com wrote:

> From what I remember reading, the Billie is recommended to use with a 
> faceplate stem. The Technomic has a lot of flex. I’m running the Jim on 
> mine with Bosco bars and the flex is not bad, just enough to take the sting 
> out of things. Definitely recommend trying a cheap one and getting 
> something nicer when they show up, hopefully soon…
>
> I’m waiting for a 135 Faceplater to replace my 100 Jim. And also maybe 
> waiting for the Billie to be able to stretch out more.  Hopefully parts 
> become more available again one day!
>
> On Friday, July 29, 2022 at 7:30:52 AM UTC-7 Daniel MacPherson wrote:
>
>> Of course, the Jim stem is sold out. Anyone have a 120mm Jim Stem for 
>> sale? I might get a cheapo off Ebay and see if that works then buyer a 
>> nicer one later. I will do the headset test as well. I've had an 
>> experienced mechanic set-up the headset so I'm pretty confident that it is 
>> not the problem. 
>>
>> On Friday, July 29, 2022 at 10:15:26 AM UTC-4 Johnny Alien wrote:
>>
>>> Daniel wrote: "I was thinking the Jim stem with the double bolt and 
>>> uprise angle might solve the problem. Thoughts?"
>>>
>>> I would think it would make a big improvement. The Billie bars are still 
>>> wide bars with a fair amount of flex but moving to a stem like that made a 
>>> big difference for me when I did it. I agree the amount of flex with my 
>>> original Billie/Nitto tech setup was excessive.
>>>
>>> On Friday, July 29, 2022 at 10:10:22 AM UTC-4 brok...@gmail.com wrote:
>>>
 While not as aesthetically pleasing, you could try a threadless to 
 quill stem adapter and see if running a threadless stem with a wider 
 clamping area will fix your issue.

 On Fri, Jul 29, 2022 at 9:30 AM James Valiensi  
 wrote:

> Hi,
> If the handlebar clamp on the stem is too loose the bars will slip and 
> rotate in it. The bolt needs to be really tight.
> You can tell if the headset is loose with this method:
> 1. stand in front of the bike
> 2. wrap one o your hands around the top nut, stem and top of the head 
> tube
> 3. hold the front brake lever realy hard with the other hand
> 4. push the bike back and forth a bit
> 5. if the headset is loose you will feel the differ parts moving under 
> the hand that is wrapped around the headset
>
> Some of the longer bars are flexible. I have a Losco and it is so 
> flexible that I quit using it.
>
> Good luck!
>
> On Jul 29, 2022, at 4:51 AM, Daniel MacPherson  
> wrote:
>
> Hey Everyone,
>
>
> I’m having issues with my handlebar set-up. I’m running Nitto 
> Technomic stem with Billie bars. The Billie bars are 25.4. The Nitto stem 
> is 26.0. I’m using a problem solvers shim to fit the bars properly.
>
>
> Anyway, I get a lot of flex in the Billie bars when I apply any weight 
> to the bars. I’ve applied a lot of torque to the nut on the stem and it 
> helps a bit but doesn’t solve the issue. I’m worried it might be the 
> headset; however the headset appears tight and smooth. Have you guys 
> experienced similar issues? Thoughts?
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
> Daniel MacPherson
>
> Tallahassee Florida
>
> On Thursday, July 14, 2022 at 8:06:16 PM UTC-4 fra...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> Good to know Daniel! I have the stock DXR pads on for now. Only have 
>> 100 miles or so and I still have no grind or squeal. Something I have 
>> been 
>> annoyed with since going to disc brakes 15 or so years back. 
>> On Thursday, July 14, 2022 at 11:44:03 AM UTC-7 Daniel MacPherson 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> I fixed the squealing on my Susie by toeing in the Kool Stop pads 
>>> just now.  It's worth the try if you are gettin

[RBW] Re: FS: Marinoni Turismo

[Damien]

Ian - thanks for the bump! Really cool to hear (and see!) where your 
Marinoni has been - Alberta/BC tour looks amazing

Damien 

On Thursday, 28 July 2022 at 17:30:59 UTC-4 Ian A wrote:

> A bump for Damien! I have a c1999 Marinoni Turismo that has taken me to 
> the tip of South America and much more recently at 20 day, 2600km tour 
> through Alberta and BC. Mine, curiously, had an SLX sticker (not SPX) and I 
> suspect it was a special order, but it came to me used in 2008 and I never 
> met the first owner. Superb road manners, great for rando rides and light 
> or loaded touring. Mine just takes 35mm tires under fenders and as a sealed 
> road tourer, it's hard to imagine a better choice.
>
> IanA Alberta Canada
>
>
> On Tuesday, July 26, 2022 at 7:50:00 AM UTC-6 Damien wrote:
>
>> Hi all! Dropping price to $1,200 USD!
>>
>> Thanks
>> Damien
>>
>> On Friday, 22 July 2022 at 13:42:24 UTC-4 Matt Beecher wrote:
>>
>>> Yep, the other was larger, but these are pretty cool, imo. 
>>>
>>>
>>> https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vintage-sales/1002852-marinoni-special-triple-rings-cantilever-brakes-great-condition.html
>>>
>>> On Friday, July 22, 2022 at 12:34:44 PM UTC-5 Matt Beecher wrote:
>>>
 Very cool.  I love purple bikes and I remember one like this several 
 years back on Bikeforums.  I think it was taller though, as I recall 
 considering it, but the bike sold before I could finalize a deal.  

 Good luck with the sale.

 Best regards,
 Matt

 On Friday, July 22, 2022 at 12:03:38 AM UTC-5 Damien wrote:

> On Friday, 22 July 2022 at 01:02:20 UTC-4 Damien wrote:
>
>> aaand a few more pics
>>
>> On Friday, 22 July 2022 at 01:01:25 UTC-4 Damien wrote:
>>
>>> Bit of a backstory: I bought this bike and set it up with high 
>>> upright handlebars with the intention of having my dad ride it. 
>>> Unfortunately he had a significant health scare very recently (still 
>>> not 
>>> recovered) and I realized that he's not really going to use it. Plus 
>>> he's 
>>> got some 90's Rocky Mountain which he won't let go of, and I thought, 
>>> "well, if he's happy with this, I'm happy too." So, I tinkered a bit 
>>> and 
>>> tried to find a way to have this fit me but I could not get comfortable 
>>> myself on it (I'm an 80 PBH, standover on this is 81-82, and the reach 
>>> still felt a bit long for me even with a short stem and compact bars - 
>>> and 
>>> I'm on a 51 in both a Sam and Hunqapillar and don't feel I would have a 
>>> need for it even if it did fit). So, I thought someone here might 
>>> appreciate. 
>>>
>>> Hopefully it is ok to post this here and even if no interest, I'm 
>>> hoping someone will find that the bike is at least cool to look at. It 
>>> really is nice and makes me wish I was taller and longer limbed.
>>>
>>> On Friday, 22 July 2022 at 00:59:36 UTC-4 Damien wrote:
>>>
 Unfortunately selling this lovely bike.

 2001 Marinoni Turismo Columbus SPX frame and fork
 56 cm top tube length
 ~ 81-82 cm standover
 Campagnolo Veloce 9x3 speed shifters
 Campagnolo Veloce RD
 Campagnolo Triple Crankset
 Campagnolo Triple FD
 new cables and housing throughout
 new Nitto x Crust Shaka Bars
 new Nitto x Crust 60mm quill stem
 new Black Inc bar tape
 Ambrosio 36 hole rims laced to Campagnolo Hubs
 Blackburn Front and Rear Touring Racks
 Will not come with the Brooks B17 in the pics but will come with a 
 used Brooks Cambium saddle

 Looking for $1,300 (USD) and can organize professional boxing and 
 shipping at the buyers expense (I am located in Canada - if you're in 
 Canada and interested, can discuss CAD price).

 Let me know if any questions. Will happily send more pics!
 Damien

>>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Best dynamo headlight for road riding

[Jeffrey Arita]

Patrick,

My wife and I have experience with several different dynamo LED lights. 
 Edelux, Edelux 2, B&M Cyo, Sinewave Beacon, B&M IQ-X.  For us, at this 
time, the B&M IQ-X is the best for pavement riding.  It easily eclipses the 
Edelux 2.  I recall riding with the IQ-X on our tandem last summer on a 
night ride.  It lit up our *entire* vehicle lane.  Some folks do not like 
how there are dimmer spots and brighter spots from the lens.  I get it. 
 But we got used to it.  On a very dark night it is amazing.  Watch for 
Amazon sales for really good pricing

One really annoying thing (at least to me) is the IQ-X has an automatic 
feature in which it automatically turns on as a daylight or nightlight, 
depending upon how much ambient light the device senses.  Some might find 
this an invaluable feature, YMMV.  Every time one stops for a bit of time I 
have to remember to *manually* turn it off, saving those precious watts on 
those steep climbs (we are currently cyclotouring in SW Colorado).

Regarding the Sinewave Beacon: I agree - it could be *the* perfect light if 
it had an StVZO lens, IMO.  I did ask the owner of Sinewave a few years ago 
if he was going to use such a lens.  At that time he said no.  Despite 
that, the Beacon checks off a lot of positive features I wish other LED 
lights would incorporate.  Being able to power an LED light via a dynamo 
*OR* a USB battery should be standard, IMO.  Within the chassis, it also 
has electronics for a USB output - extremely critical for cnyclotouring. 
 I've had direct experience with the issue of charging a *smartphone* off 
the USB output: it is a measly trickle charge.  But, I think we have to 
remember that it isn't really the light's fault but rather the dynamo.  The 
dynamo outputs a nominal 3 watts.  With losses between the dynamo, wiring 
and USB device, it really is a trickle.  I have had excellent success in 
directly recharging GPS devices (Wahoo BOLT and ROAM) using the Beacon. 
 Since their batteries are relatively small, the Sinewave Beacon's USB 
output has recharged those devices within an hour or so of steady riding. 
 Allows one to start the next day with a full charge - perfect for 
cyclotouring/bikepacking.

Good luck,

Jeff & Lori Arita
Claremont, CA (currently in Silverton, CO)

P.S.: We Amtrak'd from Los Angeles to ABQ.  Took the Rail Runner (awesome) 
to Santa Fe.  Began pedaling from SF to Durango.  We loved the Rail Runner: 
when the train car's doors were about to close, the audible warning was the 
Road Runner's "Meep - Meep." ;)





On Friday, July 29, 2022 at 8:40:37 AM UTC-6 brok...@gmail.com wrote:

> My only dyno headlight experience is with the Sinewave Beacon. I mention 
> it because it seems to address your two questions. It ticks a lot of boxes 
> for me, but after 2.5 years of hard use with it, I can't say it has lived 
> fully up to the expectations I had for it.
>
> Pros: Made in USA, waterproof, all metal construction, can be mounted 
> upside-down, is tremendously bright, has a standlight that glows for hours, 
> is pre-wired for a taillight, can be powered by a battery bank, can charge 
> devices via a waterproof USB port
>
> Despite all the pros, two things have disappointed me. First, the beam 
> pattern is more suited for off-road riding. It just blasts a big round beam 
> of light directly in front of you. No focused beam pattern for riding in 
> traffic. Secondly, I'm not sure if my light is faulty, or if it's user 
> error, but I find the USB charging capability pretty much useless. I can 
> plug my phone into it and ride 20-30 miles at 12-14mph and the battery may 
> only go up 1-2% from where it was when I plugged it in. I've heard folks 
> say it is best used to trickle-charge a battery bank, but my battery bank 
> is so large, and takes so long to charge up when plugged into a wall 
> outlet, I don't think I would ever know whether or not the Sinewave was 
> even charging it at all.
>
> On Fri, Jul 29, 2022 at 9:30 AM Patrick Moore  wrote:
>
>> The nice bright (plastic) headlight on the Dahon was a Lumotec IQ 
>> something or another, again, no longer made.
>>
>> On Wed, Jul 27, 2022 at 2:37 PM Patrick Moore  wrote:
>>
>>> ...  A few years ago I had a high-end (if there are levels, this was an 
>>> upper-class level model) but now (I think) discontinued headlight on my Hon 
>>> Solo that gave a brighter and broader beam than the EI, and had a normal 
>>> standlight -- 3 minutes or so.
>>>
>>
>> -- 
>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
>> "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
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>> email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com.
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>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/CALuTfgtwOMx6mud9GdAQRhVwWX2OQC3iENXR2st%2BhGZXNpJnFg%40mail.gmail.com
>>  
>> 

Re: [RBW] Bike rack

['peech1...@yahoo.com' via RBW Owners Bunch]

I agree.  Hollywood racks are quite good and reasonably priced.  Tim 
Petersen

On Friday, July 29, 2022 at 9:11:07 AM UTC-5 Colville wrote:

> Hollywood Racks make excellent racks that fit all types of bicycles, 
> vintage to modern to everything in between.
>
> https://hollywoodracks.com/
>
> On Friday, July 29, 2022 at 9:42:30 AM UTC-4 row.n.2...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> Siris is good if you have fenders.
>> Only weighs 25lb
>>
>> On Fri, Jul 29, 2022, 7:38 AM Jon Dukeman  wrote:
>>
>>> Depending on your vehicle
>>> Siris. Freedom 2 . 
>>> It's a hitch rack.
>>>
>>> On Fri, Jul 29, 2022, 7:30 AM katherine Evanskbe  
>>> wrote:
>>>
 Looking for recommendations to haul my Cheviot? 

 Sent from my iPhone

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 .

>>>

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Re: [RBW] High bars at a club ride

[Corwin Zechar]

At the outset, I will say that I agree with pretty much everything said so 
far in this thread. I heartily agree with RIDE WHAT YOU LIKE. I will also 
say that I hate riding upright. I have the interesting situation in that I 
captain two tandems every week - once a week for Charlie Cunningham and a 
few times a week for my wife.

Both Charlie and my wife are disabled - each in different ways. My tandem 
sports Albastache bars "slammed". Charlie and Jacquie's tandem sports Bosco 
Bull Moose bars "up high". Every time Charlie and I go out, my backside 
aches. Every time my wife and I go out? Bliss. Saddles? You ask... 
Charlie's tandem has a Brooks C17. Mine has a Fizik Aliante. I've tried 
lots of saddles. Wide ones, narrow ones, soft cushy ones, hard ones, etc. 
The wide ones chafe my thighs. The resulting sores are worse than a sore 
bottom. The saddles I like best are Fizik Aliante and Berthoud Galibier.

Point #1 is: Tolerating others is easy - once you find some common ground. 
Charlie LOVES chocolate ice cream. And Charlie is a Berkeley trained 
engineer who geeks out over fascinating designs. I provide both for him and 
we get along famously. [Charlie and I happen to be rather close in other 
aspects too - so not much of a stretch for me or him]. But it's easy to 
bond with lots of people over this kind of stuff if you focus on 
similarities instead of differences.

Point #2 is: About thirteen years ago, I discovered when riding my drop 
bars, I spend 99% of the time on the top - straight section, hoods, ramps, 
etc. Almost never in the drops or hooks. So I tried Mustache bars. What a 
revelation. Then I ordered our second tandem (a Hubbuhubbuh) for my wife. 
No Mustache bars to be found. Tried the Albastache bars and loved them too. 
So if you pay attention to what you like, you may get some insight into 
related preferences as well.

YMMV.


Corwin

On Friday, July 29, 2022 at 9:05:33 AM UTC-7 Wesley wrote:

> I have an Albastache on an old road bike frame, and an albatross on an old 
> MTB all-purpose tank. The albastache is great! compared to the albatross, 
> it is more comfortable to grab the curve because it conforms to a natural 
> arm posture with the pinky lower than the index (which is opposite to the 
> rise on the albatross.) The albastache lacks an equivalent position to the 
> drops on a drop bar, but over the years I've found that I never get into 
> the drops, anyway. If that doesn't bother you and if your body is like 
> mine, then you'll find that the positions it does have are more comfortable 
> than their drop-bar equivalents.
> -W
>
> On Friday, July 29, 2022 at 6:30:40 AM UTC-7 Patrick Moore wrote:
>
>> I entirely agree that position or fit generally is the most important 
>> thing in bike comfort and riding efficiently (yes, comfort is relative; but 
>> even a pro will ride faster if he is more comfortable than if he is more 
>> uncomfortable, and bad fit is probably the worst thing for comfort), and I 
>> agree entirely too that the entire virtue of drop bars is that they offer 
>> many different positions for comfort (yes, and efficiency, but believe me, 
>> tucked into the hooks against a 25 mph headwind in a 70-something fixed 
>> gear is a hell of a lot more comfortable than trying to buck that wind 
>> while sitting upright). 
>>
>> But!! Tell me if I am right or wrong: I thought that the entire 
>> smorgasbord of the many different Rivendell upright models came about 
>> precisely to give more comfortable upright riding with multiple hand 
>> positions -- isn't this right?
>>
>> I've not used any non-drop Riv bar since the old Priest and original 
>> edition Moustache bars, but I have been tempted to try an Albastache 
>> precisely because **I thought** that this was an improvement in hand 
>> positions and therefore comfort over the old Albatross and Moustache bars. 
>>
>> Anyone?
>>
>> On Thu, Jul 28, 2022 at 2:51 PM George Schick  wrote:
>>
>>>  Consider instead what Nick Payne so clearly underscores in his very 
>>> accurate post above about the multi-position availability that the road 
>>> bars offer a cyclist that upright or flat bars simply cannot.
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: FS: Sackville Items

[Matt Beecher]

The photo link does not work.

Is this the platsack/rack that was on Ebay recently.  If so, I am a bit 
disappointed. 

On Friday, July 29, 2022 at 8:30:02 AM UTC-5 mitchel...@gmail.com wrote:

> Hello! I got some Sackville bags for sale.. let me know if you have any 
> questions or want more pictures.. everything is in excellent condition.
>
>
> https://photos.google.com/album/AF1QipMKWulA2fuZBrkASdfXTp_Q_24OVLef_HMam1d0
>
> Platsack/Platrack - $180 shipped. 
>
> Brown Trunksack - $80 shipped.
> Olive Trunksack - $80 shipped.
>
> If local to Bay Area (SF) we can work something out!
>
> Thanks! Mitch 
>
>
>

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[RBW] WTB: Nitto stem / Albatross bars

[jeffbog...@hotmail.com]

Looking for 100-120 x 25.4 tallux and albatross bars. 
Please PM what you have and how much for shipping to 36532.
Thanks!

Jeff
(Alabama)

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Re: [RBW] Bike rack

[Colville]

I highly agree, I love the options to fit many different wheelbases and 
sizes and types, fenders too!

They also have a simple classic look, nothing fancy, just work well.  If 
you get the big 4 bike one like I have, i recommend the floor dolly for 
that sucker to store it, its a bit heavy.  

You can go to their website, get the model numbers and what not, amazon has 
them mostly all in stock. 

On Friday, July 29, 2022 at 1:24:21 PM UTC-4 peech1...@yahoo.com wrote:

> I agree.  Hollywood racks are quite good and reasonably priced.  Tim 
> Petersen
>
> On Friday, July 29, 2022 at 9:11:07 AM UTC-5 Colville wrote:
>
>> Hollywood Racks make excellent racks that fit all types of bicycles, 
>> vintage to modern to everything in between.
>>
>> https://hollywoodracks.com/
>>
>> On Friday, July 29, 2022 at 9:42:30 AM UTC-4 row.n.2...@gmail.com wrote:
>>
>>> Siris is good if you have fenders.
>>> Only weighs 25lb
>>>
>>> On Fri, Jul 29, 2022, 7:38 AM Jon Dukeman  wrote:
>>>
 Depending on your vehicle
 Siris. Freedom 2 . 
 It's a hitch rack.

 On Fri, Jul 29, 2022, 7:30 AM katherine Evanskbe  
 wrote:

> Looking for recommendations to haul my Cheviot? 
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> -- 
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google 
> Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
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> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/DE0BF9FB-961D-4891-A52C-40DD5C4DF667%40gmail.com
> .
>


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[RBW] Re: Advice on Rear Roadini Rim + shifting issues

[Joe Bernard]

Hi Catherina,

The problem I see with front shifting  - under the assumption your Campy 
Veloce drivetrain uses indexed Ergo shifters - is the crank isn't designed 
for that system. The simple/cheaper way to solve this would be to keep 
everything you have now (while replacing the rim) and add a friction 
downtube shifter for the front derailleur. It'll work great and look kinda 
cool, you'll just have one unused paddle on the left brake lever. You can 
also do this with a left bar-end shifter if you're ok with that look. 

Or if you want to spend some money while keeping the cranks you can swap to 
Shimano stuff with bar-ends, which retains indexing rear/friction front.


On Friday, July 29, 2022 at 6:28:53 AM UTC-7 Catherina Gioino wrote:

> Hi everyone,
>
> I bought a 50cm Roadini a few months ago from someone who had built it up 
> himself and barely ridden it, and I love it– I started getting things in 
> orange just to match the RBW orange that leaves heads turning on my rides. 
> After less than 1000 miles on it (mostly in the city, plus some relatively 
> tame trail riding) I discovered multiple cracks on my rear rim. The rims 
> are Velocity A23’s with White Industries hubs, and the cracks are around a 
> couple of spokes. Pictures below. 
>
> Complicating this is the fact that I’ve been having issues with my 
> shifting. It’s set up with Campagnolo front and rear derailleurs, 10 speed 
> chain and 2x8 gearing. The front derailleur doesn’t shift into the small 
> chainring, and when it does manage to shift, it jumps off or gets stuck in 
> between the two chainrings. Main issue seems to be some combination of 
> too-thin chain being incompatible with older chainrings. Pictures of 
> drivetrain for reference below. 
>
> I want to keep the White Industries hub, but I more pressingly want to fix 
> my shifting problems at the same time as getting a new rear wheel. I could 
> have a new wheel built up around the hub, using a Shimano freehub, which 
> would allow me to shift to Shimano and hopefully fix my shifting problems 
> (but I’d have to replace the entire drivetrain), or I could buy an entirely 
> new wheel. 
>
> I’m hoping the group can help me decide what to do.
>
>1. 
>
>What would you recommend I do since I need a new wheel but also want 
>to fix the shifting? 
>2. 
>
>Maybe someone here has a 700c rear wheel they’re not using that they 
>would be willing to sell. 
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Hillibikes are so close!

[Daniel MacPherson]

Well, I guess I'm going to bouncing around on my Susie... Joking.. I'll buy 
a Jim Stem once they become available in the near future...

Daniel M
Tallahassee, FL


On Friday, July 29, 2022 at 12:11:39 PM UTC-4 Bill Lindsay wrote:

> Here are some relative truths:
>
> 1. 1-1/8" quill stems are stiffer than 1" quill stems
> 2. steel quill stems are stiffer than aluminum quill stems
> 3. Stems with a shorter extension are stiffer than similar stems with a 
> longer extension
> 4. straight handlebars are stiffer than swept back handlebars
> 5. among swept back bars, bars with less sweep back are stiffer than bars 
> with more sweep back
> 6. 31.8mm handlebars are stiffer than 25.4mm handlebars
> 7. steel handlebars are stiffer than aluminum handlebars
> 8. handlebars fitted to the right sized stem are stiffer than handlebars 
> shimmed into the next size larger
> 9. bullmoose is stiffer than separate handlebar and stem setups.  
>
> As far as I understand it, Daniel's handlebar setup is employing the 
> "flexier" choice in all 9 of the above.  So there's a lot of ways to 
> improve things.  The most "night and day" experience I've had on this front 
> was on Doug's Clem.  Doug hated the flex.  It was a technomic stem and 
> aluminum boscos.  I set him up with a bullmoose Choco, and he was instantly 
> over the moon about it.  
>
> Bill Lindsay
> El Cerrito, CA
>
> On Friday, July 29, 2022 at 8:39:07 AM UTC-7 fra...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> From what I remember reading, the Billie is recommended to use with a 
>> faceplate stem. The Technomic has a lot of flex. I’m running the Jim on 
>> mine with Bosco bars and the flex is not bad, just enough to take the sting 
>> out of things. Definitely recommend trying a cheap one and getting 
>> something nicer when they show up, hopefully soon…
>>
>> I’m waiting for a 135 Faceplater to replace my 100 Jim. And also maybe 
>> waiting for the Billie to be able to stretch out more.  Hopefully parts 
>> become more available again one day!
>>
>> On Friday, July 29, 2022 at 7:30:52 AM UTC-7 Daniel MacPherson wrote:
>>
>>> Of course, the Jim stem is sold out. Anyone have a 120mm Jim Stem for 
>>> sale? I might get a cheapo off Ebay and see if that works then buyer a 
>>> nicer one later. I will do the headset test as well. I've had an 
>>> experienced mechanic set-up the headset so I'm pretty confident that it is 
>>> not the problem. 
>>>
>>> On Friday, July 29, 2022 at 10:15:26 AM UTC-4 Johnny Alien wrote:
>>>
 Daniel wrote: "I was thinking the Jim stem with the double bolt and 
 uprise angle might solve the problem. Thoughts?"

 I would think it would make a big improvement. The Billie bars are 
 still wide bars with a fair amount of flex but moving to a stem like that 
 made a big difference for me when I did it. I agree the amount of flex 
 with 
 my original Billie/Nitto tech setup was excessive.

 On Friday, July 29, 2022 at 10:10:22 AM UTC-4 brok...@gmail.com wrote:

> While not as aesthetically pleasing, you could try a threadless to 
> quill stem adapter and see if running a threadless stem with a wider 
> clamping area will fix your issue.
>
> On Fri, Jul 29, 2022 at 9:30 AM James Valiensi  
> wrote:
>
>> Hi,
>> If the handlebar clamp on the stem is too loose the bars will slip 
>> and rotate in it. The bolt needs to be really tight.
>> You can tell if the headset is loose with this method:
>> 1. stand in front of the bike
>> 2. wrap one o your hands around the top nut, stem and top of the head 
>> tube
>> 3. hold the front brake lever realy hard with the other hand
>> 4. push the bike back and forth a bit
>> 5. if the headset is loose you will feel the differ parts moving 
>> under the hand that is wrapped around the headset
>>
>> Some of the longer bars are flexible. I have a Losco and it is so 
>> flexible that I quit using it.
>>
>> Good luck!
>>
>> On Jul 29, 2022, at 4:51 AM, Daniel MacPherson  
>> wrote:
>>
>> Hey Everyone,
>>
>>
>> I’m having issues with my handlebar set-up. I’m running Nitto 
>> Technomic stem with Billie bars. The Billie bars are 25.4. The Nitto 
>> stem 
>> is 26.0. I’m using a problem solvers shim to fit the bars properly.
>>
>>
>> Anyway, I get a lot of flex in the Billie bars when I apply any 
>> weight to the bars. I’ve applied a lot of torque to the nut on the stem 
>> and 
>> it helps a bit but doesn’t solve the issue. I’m worried it might be the 
>> headset; however the headset appears tight and smooth. Have you guys 
>> experienced similar issues? Thoughts?
>>
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>>
>> Daniel MacPherson
>>
>> Tallahassee Florida
>>
>> On Thursday, July 14, 2022 at 8:06:16 PM UTC-4 fra...@gmail.com 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Good to know Daniel! I have the stock DXR pads on for now. Onl

[RBW] Re: Advice on Rear Roadini Rim + shifting issues

[Joe Bernard]

I think my answer was a little convoluted, I'll try again: 

Those cranks/rings weren't designed for indexing, a thing double rings 
don't need anyway. With friction you move the derailleur exactly as much as 
you want and it's almost index-like anyway cuz it's one movement forward 
and one back. You need a friction shifter!

On Friday, July 29, 2022 at 12:29:37 PM UTC-7 Joe Bernard wrote:

> Hi Catherina,
>
> The problem I see with front shifting  - under the assumption your Campy 
> Veloce drivetrain uses indexed Ergo shifters - is the crank isn't designed 
> for that system. The simple/cheaper way to solve this would be to keep 
> everything you have now (while replacing the rim) and add a friction 
> downtube shifter for the front derailleur. It'll work great and look kinda 
> cool, you'll just have one unused paddle on the left brake lever. You can 
> also do this with a left bar-end shifter if you're ok with that look. 
>
> Or if you want to spend some money while keeping the cranks you can swap 
> to Shimano stuff with bar-ends, which retains indexing rear/friction front.
>
>
> On Friday, July 29, 2022 at 6:28:53 AM UTC-7 Catherina Gioino wrote:
>
>> Hi everyone,
>>
>> I bought a 50cm Roadini a few months ago from someone who had built it up 
>> himself and barely ridden it, and I love it– I started getting things in 
>> orange just to match the RBW orange that leaves heads turning on my rides. 
>> After less than 1000 miles on it (mostly in the city, plus some relatively 
>> tame trail riding) I discovered multiple cracks on my rear rim. The rims 
>> are Velocity A23’s with White Industries hubs, and the cracks are around a 
>> couple of spokes. Pictures below. 
>>
>> Complicating this is the fact that I’ve been having issues with my 
>> shifting. It’s set up with Campagnolo front and rear derailleurs, 10 speed 
>> chain and 2x8 gearing. The front derailleur doesn’t shift into the small 
>> chainring, and when it does manage to shift, it jumps off or gets stuck in 
>> between the two chainrings. Main issue seems to be some combination of 
>> too-thin chain being incompatible with older chainrings. Pictures of 
>> drivetrain for reference below. 
>>
>> I want to keep the White Industries hub, but I more pressingly want to 
>> fix my shifting problems at the same time as getting a new rear wheel. I 
>> could have a new wheel built up around the hub, using a Shimano freehub, 
>> which would allow me to shift to Shimano and hopefully fix my shifting 
>> problems (but I’d have to replace the entire drivetrain), or I could buy an 
>> entirely new wheel. 
>>
>> I’m hoping the group can help me decide what to do.
>>
>>1. 
>>
>>What would you recommend I do since I need a new wheel but also want 
>>to fix the shifting? 
>>2. 
>>
>>Maybe someone here has a 700c rear wheel they’re not using that they 
>>would be willing to sell. 
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Advice on Rear Roadini Rim + shifting issues

[Garth]

In regards to the rim first thing is contact Velocity. You didn't say if 
the previous owner had built it or someone else did, but still, cracking 
isn't normal, ever and shouldn't be accepted as such. Integrity of the 
"matter" is normal. non-integrity ... is not. 

What shifters, type of shifting ? 

Your gearing by the photo is 2x10, not 2x8.  So you're stuck with a 10 
speed chain on a crank whose rings "appear" to be too far apart, for 6/7/8 
speed chains. Well, that's not as big a deal as it may seem on paper. In 
practice is where the rubber meets the road. Does it work , or not ? Screw 
"the book" ! With friction shifting, technique is everything. If you're 
just pulling and pushing hard without paying attention, feeling what's 
happening, sometimes certain combos with throw the chain. Even a "proper on 
paper" setup can throw a chain. It's not something I can put into words 
easily other than to say "use finesse" , a light touch. Play with it in a 
work stand if you have one, or do it around home on the road. 

I have on my Bombadil a 44t Surly stainless large ring that is really meant 
for 1x gears as it has no bevels on the teeth. They say it "can" work with 
7/8 speed chains with multiple cogs though, and 9-speed combo will take 
some "wearing" in. Hah hah ! Well I'm using it with a 9-speed chain, and at 
first it was quite sluggish to shift into certain combos, not even close to 
either cross extremes. So it took me a while to get to know how I had to 
shift in and out of it, to sort of let up on pedal pressure and feel for 
the engagement of the chain on the cogs before moving it fully over with 
the shifter. All this happens in the blink of an eye now, but a first it 
was quite a deliberate and seemingly slow motion. 

On Friday, July 29, 2022 at 3:29:37 PM UTC-4 Joe Bernard wrote:

> Hi Catherina,
>
> The problem I see with front shifting  - under the assumption your Campy 
> Veloce drivetrain uses indexed Ergo shifters - is the crank isn't designed 
> for that system. The simple/cheaper way to solve this would be to keep 
> everything you have now (while replacing the rim) and add a friction 
> downtube shifter for the front derailleur. It'll work great and look kinda 
> cool, you'll just have one unused paddle on the left brake lever. You can 
> also do this with a left bar-end shifter if you're ok with that look. 
>
> Or if you want to spend some money while keeping the cranks you can swap 
> to Shimano stuff with bar-ends, which retains indexing rear/friction front.
>
>
> On Friday, July 29, 2022 at 6:28:53 AM UTC-7 Catherina Gioino wrote:
>
>> Hi everyone,
>>
>> I bought a 50cm Roadini a few months ago from someone who had built it up 
>> himself and barely ridden it, and I love it– I started getting things in 
>> orange just to match the RBW orange that leaves heads turning on my rides. 
>> After less than 1000 miles on it (mostly in the city, plus some relatively 
>> tame trail riding) I discovered multiple cracks on my rear rim. The rims 
>> are Velocity A23’s with White Industries hubs, and the cracks are around a 
>> couple of spokes. Pictures below. 
>>
>> Complicating this is the fact that I’ve been having issues with my 
>> shifting. It’s set up with Campagnolo front and rear derailleurs, 10 speed 
>> chain and 2x8 gearing. The front derailleur doesn’t shift into the small 
>> chainring, and when it does manage to shift, it jumps off or gets stuck in 
>> between the two chainrings. Main issue seems to be some combination of 
>> too-thin chain being incompatible with older chainrings. Pictures of 
>> drivetrain for reference below. 
>>
>> I want to keep the White Industries hub, but I more pressingly want to 
>> fix my shifting problems at the same time as getting a new rear wheel. I 
>> could have a new wheel built up around the hub, using a Shimano freehub, 
>> which would allow me to shift to Shimano and hopefully fix my shifting 
>> problems (but I’d have to replace the entire drivetrain), or I could buy an 
>> entirely new wheel. 
>>
>> I’m hoping the group can help me decide what to do.
>>
>>1. 
>>
>>What would you recommend I do since I need a new wheel but also want 
>>to fix the shifting? 
>>2. 
>>
>>Maybe someone here has a 700c rear wheel they’re not using that they 
>>would be willing to sell. 
>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Bike rack

[David Person]

Hollywood Sports Rider SE works will for me.  Bike with and without 
fenders.  But all my bikes have a normal top tube.  A step thru requires 
their Bike Frame Adapter Bar to create a fake top tube.

On Friday, July 29, 2022 at 11:37:48 AM UTC-7 Colville wrote:

> I highly agree, I love the options to fit many different wheelbases and 
> sizes and types, fenders too!
>
> They also have a simple classic look, nothing fancy, just work well.  If 
> you get the big 4 bike one like I have, i recommend the floor dolly for 
> that sucker to store it, its a bit heavy.  
>
> You can go to their website, get the model numbers and what not, amazon 
> has them mostly all in stock. 
>
> On Friday, July 29, 2022 at 1:24:21 PM UTC-4 peec...@yahoo.com wrote:
>
>> I agree.  Hollywood racks are quite good and reasonably priced.  Tim 
>> Petersen
>>
>> On Friday, July 29, 2022 at 9:11:07 AM UTC-5 Colville wrote:
>>
>>> Hollywood Racks make excellent racks that fit all types of bicycles, 
>>> vintage to modern to everything in between.
>>>
>>> https://hollywoodracks.com/
>>>
>>> On Friday, July 29, 2022 at 9:42:30 AM UTC-4 row.n.2...@gmail.com wrote:
>>>
 Siris is good if you have fenders.
 Only weighs 25lb

 On Fri, Jul 29, 2022, 7:38 AM Jon Dukeman  wrote:

> Depending on your vehicle
> Siris. Freedom 2 . 
> It's a hitch rack.
>
> On Fri, Jul 29, 2022, 7:30 AM katherine Evanskbe  
> wrote:
>
>> Looking for recommendations to haul my Cheviot? 
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> -- 
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>> send an email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com.
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>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/DE0BF9FB-961D-4891-A52C-40DD5C4DF667%40gmail.com
>> .
>>
>

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[RBW] FS: Rene Herse Juniper Ridge Endurance (650x48 knobby)

[Collin A]

Heyo,

I'm switching up my tire situation on the ol' Appaloosa and as a result, 
I've got a pair of RH JR endurance casing tires up for grabs. They are in 
pretty good condition, with some old sealant on the bead (but not too bad) 
and some brake-pad grime from rides in the rain in Salt Lake City. The rear 
knobs, while still at nearly full height, do show some wear on the edges 
due to braking/accelerating as is typical for all knobby rear 
tiresHoping for $150+shipping from Sacramento, CA (should be around 
$10).

Photos: https://photos.app.goo.gl/fq8pdK8MorGTXYNN7

Happy Friday!
Collin in Sactown

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Re: [RBW] Hillibikes are so close!

[brendonoid]

I've been running Billies' on a 130mm Technomic and it is pretty dang flexy 
but the most comfy setup I have ever had.
I love it. Totally get why some people would find it iffy.

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Re: [RBW] Hillibikes are so close!

[brendonoid]

Erg no edits
I meant I've had that set up on my Appaloosa and it has been amazing. On 
Susie I have a Bullbar on a 30mm Discord and it is super stiff. Susie needs 
a stiff bar off road methinks.

On Saturday, 30 July 2022 at 05:44:02 UTC+8 brendonoid wrote:

>
> I've been running Billies' on a 130mm Technomic and it is pretty dang 
> flexy but the most comfy setup I have ever had.
> I love it. Totally get why some people would find it iffy.
>

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[RBW] Re: Advice on Rear Roadini Rim + shifting issues

[Wesley]

Hi Catherina,
Going with a Shimano freehub seems unlikely to be relevant, since the 
problem is with shifting your front chainrings. They appear to not be have 
any features like "ramps" and "pins" that are intended to make shifting 
chainrings easier. I believe you would be able to fix your shifting by 
swapping to chainrings that do have those features. It is possible that the 
crank is simply designed with wide spacing between the chainrings that 
isn't compatible with 10-speed chain - I don't know enough about that to 
say one way or the other.

Chainrings designs all match a few standards, so you should be able to get 
Shimano or SRAM chainrings (based on your picture, look for 110mm bolt 
circle diameter). You do have a 10-speed cassette, so make sure you get 
10-speed chainrings and use 10-speed chain.

-Wes

On Friday, July 29, 2022 at 6:28:53 AM UTC-7 Catherina Gioino wrote:

> Hi everyone,
>
> I bought a 50cm Roadini a few months ago from someone who had built it up 
> himself and barely ridden it, and I love it– I started getting things in 
> orange just to match the RBW orange that leaves heads turning on my rides. 
> After less than 1000 miles on it (mostly in the city, plus some relatively 
> tame trail riding) I discovered multiple cracks on my rear rim. The rims 
> are Velocity A23’s with White Industries hubs, and the cracks are around a 
> couple of spokes. Pictures below. 
>
> Complicating this is the fact that I’ve been having issues with my 
> shifting. It’s set up with Campagnolo front and rear derailleurs, 10 speed 
> chain and 2x8 gearing. The front derailleur doesn’t shift into the small 
> chainring, and when it does manage to shift, it jumps off or gets stuck in 
> between the two chainrings. Main issue seems to be some combination of 
> too-thin chain being incompatible with older chainrings. Pictures of 
> drivetrain for reference below. 
>
> I want to keep the White Industries hub, but I more pressingly want to fix 
> my shifting problems at the same time as getting a new rear wheel. I could 
> have a new wheel built up around the hub, using a Shimano freehub, which 
> would allow me to shift to Shimano and hopefully fix my shifting problems 
> (but I’d have to replace the entire drivetrain), or I could buy an entirely 
> new wheel. 
>
> I’m hoping the group can help me decide what to do.
>
>1. 
>
>What would you recommend I do since I need a new wheel but also want 
>to fix the shifting? 
>2. 
>
>Maybe someone here has a 700c rear wheel they’re not using that they 
>would be willing to sell. 
>
>

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[RBW] WTB: Atlantis 61cm Toyo

[Vince Allmaras]

Hey everyone, 

Probably a long shot but I am hoping to track down a Toyo built 61cm 
Atlantis. Ideally F/F/H but would be open to a full build. I am located in 
Minnesota. Let me know if you have any leads please!

Thanks, 
Vince 

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[RBW] Re: Sayonara Japan: A Farewell Tour

[John Rinker]

Thanks, ribs! Totally agree on your Tokyo-Kyoto evaluation. Perhaps there's 
irony in the fact that I never made it to Osaka- I know I missed something 
special there- but it was always the mountains and forests that demanded my 
free time. 

Cheers,
John

On Friday, July 29, 2022 at 6:30:01 AM UTC-7 ribz wrote:

> absolutely beautiful! glad you got to experience shikoku because most 
> people never make it past the usual tokyo>kyoto>osaka destinations (which 
> are the coolest cities on the planet btw, no exaggeration). 
> On Monday, July 25, 2022 at 3:32:19 PM UTC-4 John Rinker wrote:
>
>> Yes, Takashi, it would have been wonderful to ride together- two Hunqs 
>> cruising the Kiso Mountains. Perhaps another time!
>>
>> Cheers,
>> John
>>
>> On Monday, July 25, 2022 at 6:48:53 AM UTC-7 Takashi wrote:
>>
>>> So sad that I didn't have chance to meet you John.
>>> I hope to have a ride together next time you come to Japan.
>>>
>>> Oh, and thank you for another great ride report and photos!
>>> I've visited Shikoku once, and I agree about thickness of the air there.
>>>
>>> Takashi
>>>
>>>

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[RBW] Re: Craigslist (and others) Bikes For Sale: 3

[Matt Maceda]

Although not a Riv, I reckon there might be a little overlap of interest in 
this:

Soma Buena Vista 54cm - $1,200 (Oceanside)
https://sandiego.craigslist.org/nsd/bik/d/oceanside-soma-buena-vista-54cm/7513472653.html

Looks like a nice price with lots of accessories. Somebody scoop it up!
On Friday, July 29, 2022 at 6:30:02 AM UTC-7 mitchel...@gmail.com wrote:

> Rivendell Road Standard
> 59cm
> 1,000
> Redondo Beach, CA
>
> https://losangeles.craigslist.org/wst/bik/d/redondo-beach-rivendell-road-standard/7510004831.html
>
> On Friday, July 22, 2022 at 6:37:08 PM UTC-7 Matthew Williams wrote:
>
>> Atlantis
>> 59cm
>> 3600
>> Berkeley, CA
>>
>> https://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/bik/d/berkeley-rivendell-atlantis-59cm/7511867606.html
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Advice on Rear Roadini Rim + shifting issues

[Wesley]

I just looked this up - apparently the ramps and pins are meant to aid in 
shifting to a larger chainring. You've said that you have problems shifting 
to a smaller chainring, so I am not sure that my advice is actually 
relevant. Sorry! 
-Wes

Source:
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_p.html#pins
https://sheldonbrown.com/bolt-hole-patterns.html#why

On Friday, July 29, 2022 at 2:54:59 PM UTC-7 Wesley wrote:

> Hi Catherina,
> Going with a Shimano freehub seems unlikely to be relevant, since the 
> problem is with shifting your front chainrings. They appear to not be have 
> any features like "ramps" and "pins" that are intended to make shifting 
> chainrings easier. I believe you would be able to fix your shifting by 
> swapping to chainrings that do have those features. It is possible that the 
> crank is simply designed with wide spacing between the chainrings that 
> isn't compatible with 10-speed chain - I don't know enough about that to 
> say one way or the other.
>
> Chainrings designs all match a few standards, so you should be able to get 
> Shimano or SRAM chainrings (based on your picture, look for 110mm bolt 
> circle diameter). You do have a 10-speed cassette, so make sure you get 
> 10-speed chainrings and use 10-speed chain.
>
> -Wes
>
> On Friday, July 29, 2022 at 6:28:53 AM UTC-7 Catherina Gioino wrote:
>
>> Hi everyone,
>>
>> I bought a 50cm Roadini a few months ago from someone who had built it up 
>> himself and barely ridden it, and I love it– I started getting things in 
>> orange just to match the RBW orange that leaves heads turning on my rides. 
>> After less than 1000 miles on it (mostly in the city, plus some relatively 
>> tame trail riding) I discovered multiple cracks on my rear rim. The rims 
>> are Velocity A23’s with White Industries hubs, and the cracks are around a 
>> couple of spokes. Pictures below. 
>>
>> Complicating this is the fact that I’ve been having issues with my 
>> shifting. It’s set up with Campagnolo front and rear derailleurs, 10 speed 
>> chain and 2x8 gearing. The front derailleur doesn’t shift into the small 
>> chainring, and when it does manage to shift, it jumps off or gets stuck in 
>> between the two chainrings. Main issue seems to be some combination of 
>> too-thin chain being incompatible with older chainrings. Pictures of 
>> drivetrain for reference below. 
>>
>> I want to keep the White Industries hub, but I more pressingly want to 
>> fix my shifting problems at the same time as getting a new rear wheel. I 
>> could have a new wheel built up around the hub, using a Shimano freehub, 
>> which would allow me to shift to Shimano and hopefully fix my shifting 
>> problems (but I’d have to replace the entire drivetrain), or I could buy an 
>> entirely new wheel. 
>>
>> I’m hoping the group can help me decide what to do.
>>
>>1. 
>>
>>What would you recommend I do since I need a new wheel but also want 
>>to fix the shifting? 
>>2. 
>>
>>Maybe someone here has a 700c rear wheel they’re not using that they 
>>would be willing to sell. 
>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Advice on Rear Roadini Rim + shifting issues

[Karl Wilcox]

Velocity will replace cracked rims.

On Fri, Jul 29, 2022 at 2:55 PM Wesley  wrote:

> Hi Catherina,
> Going with a Shimano freehub seems unlikely to be relevant, since the
> problem is with shifting your front chainrings. They appear to not be have
> any features like "ramps" and "pins" that are intended to make shifting
> chainrings easier. I believe you would be able to fix your shifting by
> swapping to chainrings that do have those features. It is possible that the
> crank is simply designed with wide spacing between the chainrings that
> isn't compatible with 10-speed chain - I don't know enough about that to
> say one way or the other.
>
> Chainrings designs all match a few standards, so you should be able to get
> Shimano or SRAM chainrings (based on your picture, look for 110mm bolt
> circle diameter). You do have a 10-speed cassette, so make sure you get
> 10-speed chainrings and use 10-speed chain.
>
> -Wes
>
> On Friday, July 29, 2022 at 6:28:53 AM UTC-7 Catherina Gioino wrote:
>
>> Hi everyone,
>>
>> I bought a 50cm Roadini a few months ago from someone who had built it up
>> himself and barely ridden it, and I love it– I started getting things in
>> orange just to match the RBW orange that leaves heads turning on my rides.
>> After less than 1000 miles on it (mostly in the city, plus some relatively
>> tame trail riding) I discovered multiple cracks on my rear rim. The rims
>> are Velocity A23’s with White Industries hubs, and the cracks are around a
>> couple of spokes. Pictures below.
>>
>> Complicating this is the fact that I’ve been having issues with my
>> shifting. It’s set up with Campagnolo front and rear derailleurs, 10 speed
>> chain and 2x8 gearing. The front derailleur doesn’t shift into the small
>> chainring, and when it does manage to shift, it jumps off or gets stuck in
>> between the two chainrings. Main issue seems to be some combination of
>> too-thin chain being incompatible with older chainrings. Pictures of
>> drivetrain for reference below.
>>
>> I want to keep the White Industries hub, but I more pressingly want to
>> fix my shifting problems at the same time as getting a new rear wheel. I
>> could have a new wheel built up around the hub, using a Shimano freehub,
>> which would allow me to shift to Shimano and hopefully fix my shifting
>> problems (but I’d have to replace the entire drivetrain), or I could buy an
>> entirely new wheel.
>>
>> I’m hoping the group can help me decide what to do.
>>
>>1.
>>
>>What would you recommend I do since I need a new wheel but also want
>>to fix the shifting?
>>2.
>>
>>Maybe someone here has a 700c rear wheel they’re not using that they
>>would be willing to sell.
>>
>> --
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> .
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[RBW] WTB: Brooks B68

[Ariel Jiana Wilson]

Hi everyone!

Looking to replace the  Brooks B67 saddle on my Platypus with a B68, don't 
care what color, but it should be in new or good used condition.

Please respond off list if you have something available.

Thanks :)

Ariel

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[RBW] Re: Advice on Rear Roadini Rim + shifting issues

[Joe Bernard]

Wesley, 
My guess in this scenario (cuz I haven't seen the shifters yet) is the 
front is indexed and is popping the derailleur over a predetermined 
distance this crank isn't cooperating with. The chain is either not going 
far enough (caught between rings) or tossing all the way over onto the BB 
shell. These miss-shifts can be done with friction, too, but we can learn 
the deft techniques to get it right. With indexing it either works or it 
doesn't..that's no fun! 

On Friday, July 29, 2022 at 7:48:52 PM UTC-7 Wesley wrote:

> I just looked this up - apparently the ramps and pins are meant to aid in 
> shifting to a larger chainring. You've said that you have problems shifting 
> to a smaller chainring, so I am not sure that my advice is actually 
> relevant. Sorry! 
> -Wes
>
> Source:
> https://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_p.html#pins
> https://sheldonbrown.com/bolt-hole-patterns.html#why
>
> On Friday, July 29, 2022 at 2:54:59 PM UTC-7 Wesley wrote:
>
>> Hi Catherina,
>> Going with a Shimano freehub seems unlikely to be relevant, since the 
>> problem is with shifting your front chainrings. They appear to not be have 
>> any features like "ramps" and "pins" that are intended to make shifting 
>> chainrings easier. I believe you would be able to fix your shifting by 
>> swapping to chainrings that do have those features. It is possible that the 
>> crank is simply designed with wide spacing between the chainrings that 
>> isn't compatible with 10-speed chain - I don't know enough about that to 
>> say one way or the other.
>>
>> Chainrings designs all match a few standards, so you should be able to 
>> get Shimano or SRAM chainrings (based on your picture, look for 110mm bolt 
>> circle diameter). You do have a 10-speed cassette, so make sure you get 
>> 10-speed chainrings and use 10-speed chain.
>>
>> -Wes
>>
>> On Friday, July 29, 2022 at 6:28:53 AM UTC-7 Catherina Gioino wrote:
>>
>>> Hi everyone,
>>>
>>> I bought a 50cm Roadini a few months ago from someone who had built it 
>>> up himself and barely ridden it, and I love it– I started getting things in 
>>> orange just to match the RBW orange that leaves heads turning on my rides. 
>>> After less than 1000 miles on it (mostly in the city, plus some relatively 
>>> tame trail riding) I discovered multiple cracks on my rear rim. The rims 
>>> are Velocity A23’s with White Industries hubs, and the cracks are around a 
>>> couple of spokes. Pictures below. 
>>>
>>> Complicating this is the fact that I’ve been having issues with my 
>>> shifting. It’s set up with Campagnolo front and rear derailleurs, 10 speed 
>>> chain and 2x8 gearing. The front derailleur doesn’t shift into the small 
>>> chainring, and when it does manage to shift, it jumps off or gets stuck in 
>>> between the two chainrings. Main issue seems to be some combination of 
>>> too-thin chain being incompatible with older chainrings. Pictures of 
>>> drivetrain for reference below. 
>>>
>>> I want to keep the White Industries hub, but I more pressingly want to 
>>> fix my shifting problems at the same time as getting a new rear wheel. I 
>>> could have a new wheel built up around the hub, using a Shimano freehub, 
>>> which would allow me to shift to Shimano and hopefully fix my shifting 
>>> problems (but I’d have to replace the entire drivetrain), or I could buy an 
>>> entirely new wheel. 
>>>
>>> I’m hoping the group can help me decide what to do.
>>>
>>>1. 
>>>
>>>What would you recommend I do since I need a new wheel but also want 
>>>to fix the shifting? 
>>>2. 
>>>
>>>Maybe someone here has a 700c rear wheel they’re not using that they 
>>>would be willing to sell. 
>>>
>>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Advice on Rear Roadini Rim + shifting issues

[Patrick Moore]

My experience agrees with Garth's.

Wait a minute: That can't be right! Garth's experiences are way too far out
and exuberant for me!

Let me rephrase: Garth's experience shifting an older crank with a newer,
narrower chain, matches mine. I use a Ritchy Logic crank, 8 speed,* with an
11 speed chain on a 10 sp cassette (a slightly narrow chain seems to
improve or ease rear shifting) and I've never had any problem with the
chain falling between the rings.

* Now the chainring spacers for the granny come from who-knows-where, so
they may not be 8 speed ones; they may be 9 speed ones, but never 10 speed
ones. Or, they may be 7 speed ones. At any rate, friction shifted, I've
never even had to think about the mismatch; it just works fine. (Also, bike
has 5-speed friction bar end shifters pulling 8 speed rear derailleur over
10 cogs with 11 sp chain: wonderful shifting.)

On Fri, Jul 29, 2022 at 2:39 PM Garth  wrote:

> ... Your gearing by the photo is 2x10, not 2x8.  So you're stuck with a 10
> speed chain on a crank whose rings "appear" to be too far apart, for 6/7/8
> speed chains. Well, that's not as big a deal as it may seem on paper. In
> practice is where the rubber meets the road. Does it work , or not ? Screw
> "the book" ! With friction shifting, technique is everything. If you're
> just pulling and pushing hard without paying attention, feeling what's
> happening, sometimes certain combos with throw the chain. Even a "proper on
> paper" setup can throw a chain. It's not something I can put into words
> easily other than to say "use finesse" , a light touch. Play with it in a
> work stand if you have one, or do it around home on the road.
>
> I have on my Bombadil a 44t Surly stainless large ring that is really
> meant for 1x gears as it has no bevels on the teeth. They say it "can" work
> with 7/8 speed chains with multiple cogs though, and 9-speed combo will
> take some "wearing" in. Hah hah ! Well I'm using it with a 9-speed chain,
> and at first it was quite sluggish to shift into certain combos, not even
> close to either cross extremes. So it took me a while to get to know how I
> had to shift in and out of it, to sort of let up on pedal pressure and feel
> for the engagement of the chain on the cogs before moving it fully over
> with the shifter. All this happens in the blink of an eye now, but a first
> it was quite a deliberate and seemingly slow motion.
>

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Re: [RBW] High bars at a club ride

[Patrick Moore]

Thanks, Wesley, this is useful information. An Albastache won't replace my
drop bars because I often use the hooks, but it might give more hand
positions on my Monocog 29er than the (cut down) MAP/Ahearne bar currently
on it, which, though it is the best "upright" bar I've used to date, is not
as comfortable as my drops.

The one thing that makes me hesitate about the Albastache (and other
Rivendell bars) is the width; I've learned over many years that I just
don't like bars much wider than 46 cm, shorter stems or not.

But it remains on my "definitely maybe" list.

On Fri, Jul 29, 2022 at 10:05 AM Wesley  wrote:

> I have an Albastache on an old road bike frame, and an albatross on an old
> MTB all-purpose tank. The albastache is great! compared to the albatross,
> it is more comfortable to grab the curve because it conforms to a natural
> arm posture with the pinky lower than the index (which is opposite to the
> rise on the albatross.) The albastache lacks an equivalent position to the
> drops on a drop bar, but over the years I've found that I never get into
> the drops, anyway. If that doesn't bother you and if your body is like
> mine, then you'll find that the positions it does have are more comfortable
> than their drop-bar equivalents.
> -W
>
> On Friday, July 29, 2022 at 6:30:40 AM UTC-7 Patrick Moore wrote:
>
>> I entirely agree that position or fit generally is the most important
>> thing in bike comfort and riding efficiently (yes, comfort is relative; but
>> even a pro will ride faster if he is more comfortable than if he is more
>> uncomfortable, and bad fit is probably the worst thing for comfort), and I
>> agree entirely too that the entire virtue of drop bars is that they offer
>> many different positions for comfort (yes, and efficiency, but believe me,
>> tucked into the hooks against a 25 mph headwind in a 70-something fixed
>> gear is a hell of a lot more comfortable than trying to buck that wind
>> while sitting upright).
>>
>> But!! Tell me if I am right or wrong: I thought that the entire
>> smorgasbord of the many different Rivendell upright models came about
>> precisely to give more comfortable upright riding with multiple hand
>> positions -- isn't this right?
>>
>> I've not used any non-drop Riv bar since the old Priest and original
>> edition Moustache bars, but I have been tempted to try an Albastache
>> precisely because **I thought** that this was an improvement in hand
>> positions and therefore comfort over the old Albatross and Moustache bars.
>>
>> Anyone?
>>
>> On Thu, Jul 28, 2022 at 2:51 PM George Schick  wrote:
>>
>>>  Consider instead what Nick Payne so clearly underscores in his very
>>> accurate post above about the multi-position availability that the road
>>> bars offer a cyclist that upright or flat bars simply cannot.
>>>
>> --
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> 
> .
>


-- 

---
Patrick Moore
Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum

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[RBW] Re: FS: Sackville Items

[Mitch]

for now i am only interested in Local Pick Up! thanks 

On Friday, July 29, 2022 at 6:30:02 AM UTC-7 Mitch wrote:

> Hello! I got some Sackville bags for sale.. let me know if you have any 
> questions or want more pictures.. everything is in excellent condition.
>
>
> https://photos.google.com/album/AF1QipMKWulA2fuZBrkASdfXTp_Q_24OVLef_HMam1d0
>
> Platsack/Platrack - $180 shipped. 
>
> Brown Trunksack - $80 shipped.
> Olive Trunksack - $80 shipped.
>
> If local to Bay Area (SF) we can work something out!
>
> Thanks! Mitch 
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Best dynamo headlight for road riding

[Patrick Moore]

Thanks, Brian and Jeffrey.

I'm afraid that the Sinewave Beacon is out; I need something with
German-spec (or, generally, traffic-appropriate) beam shape. The S Beacon
must be much like my K-Lite: wonderfully bright, but it just blasts the
light out there.*

The B&M IQ X seems the darling: German beam, very bright, very broad, good
standlight, metal case, and half the price of the Edeluxe. What's not to
like? I'll be interested in others' opinions.

Really, the Edeluxe 1 is quite enough for night commuting along familar
roads and paths, even in full darkness and with my poor night vision, but
turning dark corners at speed is anxious-making. And I generally mount a
good battery headlight for occasional use, which serves at the longer stop
lights. Still, for now, the IQ X is at the top of the list.

Aside: I remember the IQ Fly: wonderful compared to my Sanyo and other
bottle dynamos + incandescent headlights, but man! How weak compared to the
Edeluxe!

OTOH, I did use a 12 volt very high end and very expensive ($300 20 years
ago?) bottle + mating incandescent halogen headlight. This was as bright as
many top line LED lights from 20 years ago.

*Last March I rode home from church at 8:30 or 9 pm in a sudden heavy
snowfall. The K-lite just blasted photons out into the cosmic void and all
the jolly wet big snowflakes cheerfully blasted them back at me. I could
see almost nothing beyond the bar unless I rode with 1 hand cupping the top
of the beam.


On Wed, Jul 27, 2022 at 2:39 PM Patrick Moore  wrote:

> The nice bright (plastic) headlight on the Dahon was a Lumotec IQ
> something or another, again, no longer made.
>

-- 

---
Patrick Moore
Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum

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Re: [RBW] Re: Best dynamo headlight for road riding

[Patrick Moore]

Forgot to add: Jeffrey: Please post photos of your ride, if and when you
can. Thanks.

On Fri, Jul 29, 2022 at 11:01 AM Jeffrey Arita 
wrote:

> Patrick,
>
> My wife and I have experience with several different dynamo LED lights.
> Edelux, Edelux 2, B&M Cyo, Sinewave Beacon, B&M IQ-X.  For us, at this
> time, the B&M IQ-X is the best for pavement riding.  It easily eclipses the
> Edelux 2.  I recall riding with the IQ-X on our tandem last summer on a
> night ride.  It lit up our *entire* vehicle lane.  Some folks do not like
> how there are dimmer spots and brighter spots from the lens.  I get it.
> But we got used to it.  On a very dark night it is amazing.  Watch for
> Amazon sales for really good pricing
>
> One really annoying thing (at least to me) is the IQ-X has an automatic
> feature in which it automatically turns on as a daylight or nightlight,
> depending upon how much ambient light the device senses.  Some might find
> this an invaluable feature, YMMV.  Every time one stops for a bit of time I
> have to remember to *manually* turn it off, saving those precious watts
> on those steep climbs (we are currently cyclotouring in SW Colorado).
>
> Regarding the Sinewave Beacon: I agree - it could be *the* perfect light
> if it had an StVZO lens, IMO.  I did ask the owner of Sinewave a few years
> ago if he was going to use such a lens.  At that time he said no.  Despite
> that, the Beacon checks off a lot of positive features I wish other LED
> lights would incorporate.  Being able to power an LED light via a dynamo
> *OR* a USB battery should be standard, IMO.  Within the chassis, it also
> has electronics for a USB output - extremely critical for cnyclotouring.
> I've had direct experience with the issue of charging a *smartphone* off
> the USB output: it is a measly trickle charge.  But, I think we have to
> remember that it isn't really the light's fault but rather the dynamo.  The
> dynamo outputs a nominal 3 watts.  With losses between the dynamo, wiring
> and USB device, it really is a trickle.  I have had excellent success in
> directly recharging GPS devices (Wahoo BOLT and ROAM) using the Beacon.
> Since their batteries are relatively small, the Sinewave Beacon's USB
> output has recharged those devices within an hour or so of steady riding.
> Allows one to start the next day with a full charge - perfect for
> cyclotouring/bikepacking.
>
> Good luck,
>
> Jeff & Lori Arita
> Claremont, CA (currently in Silverton, CO)
>
> P.S.: We Amtrak'd from Los Angeles to ABQ.  Took the Rail Runner (awesome)
> to Santa Fe.  Began pedaling from SF to Durango.  We loved the Rail Runner:
> when the train car's doors were about to close, the audible warning was the
> Road Runner's "Meep - Meep." ;)
>
>
>
>
>
> On Friday, July 29, 2022 at 8:40:37 AM UTC-6 brok...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> My only dyno headlight experience is with the Sinewave Beacon. I mention
>> it because it seems to address your two questions. It ticks a lot of boxes
>> for me, but after 2.5 years of hard use with it, I can't say it has lived
>> fully up to the expectations I had for it.
>>
>> Pros: Made in USA, waterproof, all metal construction, can be mounted
>> upside-down, is tremendously bright, has a standlight that glows for hours,
>> is pre-wired for a taillight, can be powered by a battery bank, can charge
>> devices via a waterproof USB port
>>
>> Despite all the pros, two things have disappointed me. First, the beam
>> pattern is more suited for off-road riding. It just blasts a big round beam
>> of light directly in front of you. No focused beam pattern for riding in
>> traffic. Secondly, I'm not sure if my light is faulty, or if it's user
>> error, but I find the USB charging capability pretty much useless. I can
>> plug my phone into it and ride 20-30 miles at 12-14mph and the battery may
>> only go up 1-2% from where it was when I plugged it in. I've heard folks
>> say it is best used to trickle-charge a battery bank, but my battery bank
>> is so large, and takes so long to charge up when plugged into a wall
>> outlet, I don't think I would ever know whether or not the Sinewave was
>> even charging it at all.
>>
>> On Fri, Jul 29, 2022 at 9:30 AM Patrick Moore  wrote:
>>
>>> The nice bright (plastic) headlight on the Dahon was a Lumotec IQ
>>> something or another, again, no longer made.
>>>
>>> On Wed, Jul 27, 2022 at 2:37 PM Patrick Moore  wrote:
>>>
 ...  A few years ago I had a high-end (if there are levels, this was an
 upper-class level model) but now (I think) discontinued headlight on my Hon
 Solo that gave a brighter and broader beam than the EI, and had a normal
 standlight -- 3 minutes or so.

>>>
>>> --
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Re: [RBW] Best dynamo headlight for road riding

[rltilley]

I agree with others on the IQ-X. That is the best light I’ve used for road use. 
I like the looks of it but some don’t like the blue light on the button on the 
back. Mine is hidden from view by a front bag. The silver version looks like 
metal but I think it is plastic. 

I also have a Sinewave Beacon on my off-road bike. Great light but I would not 
choose it for road riding.

Robert Tilley
San Diego, CA


Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 29, 2022, at 6:30 AM, Patrick Moore  wrote:
> 
> 
> I was going to yank the Best Dynamo Hub thread onto a tangent to suit my own 
> intents and purposes, but I forbore. So, a new question.
> 
> I have an Edeluxe I, have had it for 15 years or so, and it's a trooper, but 
> it has 2 defects:
> 
> 1. The beam is rather narrow compared to later lights (and to the Edeluxe II, 
> I understand), and:
> 
> 2. The standlight is a wimp: about 60 seconds before it turns into a 
> glow-worm for another 30 seconds and then goes out. (The 2015 K-Lite by 
> contrast still glows dimly after 5 or 6 hours; big capacitor.)
> 
> A few years ago I had a high-end (if there are levels, this was an 
> upper-class level model) but now (I think) discontinued headlight on my Hon 
> Solo that gave a brighter and broader beam than the EI, and had a normal 
> standlight -- 3 minutes or so.
> 
> So, 2 questions:
> 
> 1. The best headlight without regarding anything but brightness, beam width, 
> and standlight longevity?
> 
> 2. The best ditto made with a metal case? (For me, the metal case would be a 
> purely cosmetic advantage, but I like pretty.)
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> Since I just talked about the K-Lite: that's a wonderful off road light -- 
> 1200 lumens claimed on High -- but its beam does not have a height cutoff, 
> and since it is so very bright, it's impolite if not criminal to use it 
> regularly against oncoming bike traffic.
> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> 
> ---
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
> 
> 
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