from:"William Walker via CnC\-List"

Re: Stus-List Sailing with main topping lift

2015-09-30 Thread William Walker via CnC-List

Dennis, I too have garhauer rigid and it was the first upgrade made to my boat. 
 Wouldn't be without it.
  Do you see any downside to using the main halyard as topping lift when sails 
down ?  Done this for years without adverse effects that I can see.  I removed 
topping lift.   
Bill Walker
CnC 36



Sent from AOL Mobile Mail

On Tuesday, September 29, 2015 Dennis C. via CnC-List  
wrote:

A main topping lift serves two primary purposes: 1) opening the top of the main 
to create more twist and 2) holding the boom up when the mainsail is not 
hoisted.

In my opinion, the former is more suited to a rigid boom vang or boomkicker.  
If either are properly installed, they should raise the boom enough to twist 
off the main.

The big advantage of a rigid vang or boomkicker is that it will allow you to 
detach the topping lift and move it forward to the mast while sailing.

Why?  To prevent damage to your mainsail.  Topping lifts, in particular, wire 
topping lifts, will abrade the stitching near the leech of your main.  In 
severe cases, you might eject a batten as the stitching in a batten pocket 
gives out.  Rope topping lifts don't abrade nearly as much but they will, over 
time, cause damage to the stitching.

We never sail Touche' with the topping lift attached to the boom.  It is always 
detached from the boom and carried forward to the mast.  We have a Garhauer 
rigid boom vang.

On Touche' the topping lift is only used to stabilize the boom when the 
mainsail is not hoisted.


Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

___ Email address: 
CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing 
-- go to the bottom of page at: 
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List self-tailing winch problem

2015-10-05 Thread William Walker via CnC-List

Still have old sheets?  Try them.  I suspect the VPC is slightly small and it 
is very slippery in my experience.
Bill Walker
CnC 36
Pentwater, Mi.



-Original Message-
From: David Knecht via CnC-List 
To: CnC CnC discussion list 
Cc: David Knecht 
Sent: Mon, Oct 5, 2015 10:30 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List self-tailing winch problem


Hi Josh- great info!

On Oct 5, 2015, at 10:08 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List  
wrote:


David, 
The screws which Joel mentioned are, from my experience, a type of cap screw.  
You might want to remove them one at a time and lube them with tef-gel, or 
anti-seeze.  If they get stuck they break.  If they are over torqued they 
break.  If they are not fully tightened or the springs are old or the line is 
too small of a diameter then line won't stay in.
As long a the above three conditions are met then the problem you are having is 
with the friction on the drum.  It sounds like those three conditions are met 
since you only experienced this problem in heavy winds.  As mentioned extra 
wraps should help add friction.  Additionally a machine shop can re-knurl the 
drum.  You can also add a sleeve to the jib sheet.  If you have the crew to do 
so, try having them not use the self-tailer to winch in on the tacks.  See how 
much pressure the tailer needs to apply before the winch slips.  The tailer 
should only have to apply moderate tension.  If they are really pulling you 
need another wrap (or 2).  If you have 4 or 5 wraps and the winch still slips 
then you need more friction.  Sleeving the sheet is probably a little cheaper 
and will make the line better on the hand.  You can also do it yourself.  If 
you still find that it takes 4 or more wraps I would start looking for a 
machine shop.  I have one in mind if you are interested.

We had 4 wraps on the drum so I am thinking friction on the drum.  I don’t know 
what re-knurling means and don’t know if any shop would know how to do this. 
Also, I have not found a good machine shop in my area.  What shop did you have 
in mind?  What would you sleeve the sheet with?  Dave



Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD

___




Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT





___

Email
address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including
unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com


 
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Autopilot Recommendations

2015-10-11 Thread William Walker via CnC-List

Fred,
  I guess this goes for st4000 wheel pilots too?  Are there any available for 
these and how tough an install.  
Bill Walker
CnC 36
Pentwater, Mi



Sent from AOL Mobile Mail

On Sunday, October 11, 2015 Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Doug — sorry for the delay; it’s haulout weekend.  Yes, on any Raymarine 
autopilot systems older than the current EVO systems, you really need to have 
the rudder reference transducer installed and calibrated to get decent 
performance out of the system.


You should have gotten a transducer along with the X10 system; I’ve got one 
around somewhere if you don’t find yours.


— Fred


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(


On Oct 9, 2015, at 9:33 PM, svpegasu...@gmail.com via CnC-List 
 wrote:


I had to get auto pilot because my cat refuses to take the helm. So I got the 
Raymarine X10 with linear drive and a St70 control head. Thinking I should add 
a rudder transducer... am thinking this will lessen the constant adjustments 
from the pilot. What is your opinion Fred? 


Doug Mountjoy

svPegasus

LF38 

just west of Ballard, WA.


___ Email address: 
CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing 
-- go to the bottom of page at: 
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Stus-List (no subject)

2015-10-11 Thread William Walker via CnC-List

Neil,
  White Lake is great place and you will enjoy.  Plan an overnight in Pentwater 
during the summer and give me a shout.  
Glad to have you visit Pentwater Yacht Club.
Bill Walker
CnC 36
Pentwater, Mi


Sent from AOL Mobile Mail___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Autopilot Recommendations

2015-10-12 Thread William Walker via CnC-List

Thanks for info.  I use it primarily when motoring.  Upwind it does pretty 
well.  Downwind in fillowi g seas not so well. 
Bill Walker



Sent from AOL Mobile Mail

On Monday, October 12, 2015 Michael Brown via CnC-List  
wrote:

I had a Raymarine ST4000 wheel drive that worked but in some circumstances
not well. Trying to use it upwind into waves had it steering all over the 
place, and
playing with the damping settings didn't solve it. At lower speeds it would 
hunt a lot.

At the Toronto boat show I spoke with the people at the Raymarine booth, and was
told to add a rudder sensor. Since I have no play in the steering and the 
geometry
doesn't change I also wondered why it would make a difference. The answer was
that the software handles the steering differently when it can measure the 
rudder
angle directly rather than stepping the drive motor and calculating the angle.

I added the sensor. My guess is that it didn't do much. Maybe a bit more stable
upwind, still not great though.

Michael Brown
Windburn
C&C 30-1

Date: Sun, 11 Oct 2015 12:06:07 -0400 

From: "Rick Brass"  
To:  
Subject: Re: Stus-List Autopilot Recommendations 
Message-ID: <01d1043e$bd619ef0$3824dcd0$@earthlink.net> 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" 

>From all the comments over the past few years I know that David's comment is 
true. But I have always wondered "WHY?". What changed to make the rudder 
position sensor essential? 



Over the years I've had an Autohelm tillerpilot (800 I think) on a 27 and a 
Raymarine 1000 tillerpilot on my 25 with tiller steering. A Raymarine 3000 
belt driven wheel pilot. And there is a Navico 5000 wheel pilot on my 38 
(I'm sure it isn't older than dirt, but it is almost older than plastic). 
None of these has a wheel sensor - relying only on heading information from 
the fluxgate compass built into them to steer the boat. All of them worked 
well. 



The Navico took a bit of adjustment to the settings to optimize performance 
(I suspect the PO had never set it up since the wheel lock to lock setting 
was the default and not the proper number for the boat), but once set up the 
wheelpilot will steer the boat for miles and miles without a variance from 
the desired heading of over a degree or two. 



So what has changed with the newer autopilots to make the rudder position 
sensor so important? 



Rick Brass 

Imzadi  C&C 38 mk 2 

la Belle Aurore C&C 25 mk1 

Washington, NC 

___ Email address: 
CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing 
-- go to the bottom of page at: 
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Stus-List Rudder angle

2015-10-12 Thread William Walker via CnC-List


Fred,
If Doug doesn't buy I will.  Looks like he want a it though.  Let Me know if 
available.  
Bill Walker


Sent from AOL Mobile Mail___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Roller Reefing Boom

2015-10-12 Thread William Walker via CnC-List

The vang was first thing I did to my boat when I bought gut five years ago.  
Wouldn't be without it.  
Bill Walker
CnC 36
Pentwater, Mi 



Sent from AOL Mobile Mail

On Sunday, October 11, 2015 schiller via CnC-List  wrote:

I just replaced the pin stop traveler this year.  Replaced with a Garhauer 
adjustable traveler and a 3:1/6:1 Mainsheeting system.

Thinking about rigid vang as well.

Neil Schiller
1970 Redwing 35, Hull #7
(C&C 35, Mark I)
"Corsair"


On 10/11/2015 8:19 PM, Ken Heaton via CnC-List wrote:

I still occasionally sail on a C&C 35 Mk.1 that still has the roller furling 
main and the screw type outhaul.  It still has the pin stop traveler too.  The 
owner has has had her since 1980 or so. 


He is always trying to convince us "this is the pinnacle of sailboat 
technology, why change anything?"


It works for him.


Ken H.


On 11 October 2015 at 21:03, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
wrote:

Touche' still has the original roller boom.  It can't roll anymore because of 
the rigid boom vang.

I've replaced the old screw type outhaul with a car and 4:1 purchase.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Oct 11, 2015 4:44 PM, "schiller via CnC-List"  wrote:

So, Corsair is out for the season and I brought home the Spinnaker Pole and the 
Boom to clean up for the winter and it got me wondering how many still have the 
original roller reefing boom?  I have used the roller reefing feature once with 
the old main (no slab reefing).  We now have a North Main that has two reef 
points.  We don't reef all that often.  We just don't go out that often in 15+ 
TWS.

Once I got the end fitting off I figured out why the outhaul was always such a 
tough adjustment.  The outhaul sheave has a half inch ID and the pin is 5/16.  
There was no bushing in the sheave.  I think that I'll just order a new sheave 
from Rig Rite.

I am having the mast stepped this winter so that I can give it a good look over 
this winter.  I am going to replace all of the bulbs with LEDs and finally fix 
my spreader lights (they came disconnected a few years ago and I just haven't 
wanted to go up the mast that bad to reconnect them.

We are doing all of this work because we are finally leaving South Haven and 
taking the boat north to White Lake (Michigan).  It is a difficult decision.  
We have been in South Haven (short one year that we didn't even go in the water 
and one year in Saugatuck/Douglas due to low water levels in South Haven) since 
we came up to Michigan with our South Coast 23 in 1992.  We find that there is 
no social life for the old sailors in South Haven.  We are hoping to find a 
little more activity in Whitehall and we will join White Lake Yacht Club to 
help.  The up side to moving up the lake is that the cost is less (we can pay 
for the slip and the WLYC dues for less than slip in SH) and we can sail White 
Lake when the big lake is not hospitable.  We already know more people on White 
Lake than we do in South Haven. 

We are also replacing the 45 year old cushions since we will be spending more 
weekends on the boat.  Whitehall is a 2 hour drive, South Haven was a twenty 
minute drive.

This is a pretty big move for us but we are excited to maybe get more usage out 
of the boat.  Wish us luck.

Neil Schiller
1970 Redwing 35, Hull #7
(C&C 35, Mark I)
"Corsair"
on the hard in South Haven fo probably the last time



___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com



___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com





___ Email address: 
CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing 
-- go to the bottom of page at: 
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 


___ Email address: 
CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing 
-- go to the bottom of page at: 
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Dodger for 34+

2015-10-14 Thread William Walker via CnC-List

Ditto on clear side panels and add hand holds to rear and sides.  



Sent from AOL Mobile Mail

On Wednesday, October 14, 2015 Dave Godwin via CnC-List  
wrote:

Dave the OP, (lot of Dave/Davids in this post…),


Although not a 34+ owner, if you haven’t already thought about it, you may wish 
to specify that the side panels be made using clear material like the front of 
the dodger. This is how my dodger setup is and when the panels (removable…) are 
in the visibility is pretty good. I’m not fond of the “dark cave” effect of 
many dodgers.


Best

Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay

Ronin’s Overdue Refit


On Oct 14, 2015, at 2:08 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List  
wrote:


I will try to remember to take some pictures of mine this weekend.  I put it on 
when cruising and most of the time leave the frame up and the canvas off.  Even 
when I put on the canvas, I have never added the side panels, so I view them as 
dispensable.  The empty frame has the advantage of another thing to hold onto 
in the cockpit.  It has the disadvantage of something to hit your head on, 
especially when coming up from below with your head down.  The bimini that came 
with mine (both were purchased by the PO) is pretty useless.  It does not come 
back far enough to cover the helm seat, so in rain it just runs onto your head 
and neck.  There is no frame for the bimini- it zips to the dodger and a bar in 
the back attaches to the backstay.  I would avoid that approach.  Dave


Dr. David Knecht

Professor of Molecular and Cell Biology

Core Microscopy Facility Director

University of Connecticut   

91 N. Eagleville Rd.

Storrs, CT 06269

860-486-2200


On Oct 14, 2015, at 4:28 AM, davepulaski via CnC-List  
wrote:


So I'm having discussions with a canvas maker about fabricating a dodger for my 
'90 34+, and I'd like to solicit some input from other 34+ owners who have a 
dodger, and I'd really love to see some pictures! 


This will be a from-scratch build, as the boat never had a dodger.


Obviously I want it to be good looking and not detract too much from the lines 
of the boat, but there are some functional challenges I can see with putting a 
dodger on a 34+.


First, clearance for the big self-tailers on the corners of the cabin top.  Th 
canvas maker I'm speaking with expressed concern that the dodger side panels 
and/or frame may interfer with full rotation of the winch handle. 


Second: how high above the companionway hatch is your dodger, and how much does 
 it create awkward access in and out of the companionway?  This is difficult 
for me to visualize, but I can see it being an issue because the bridgedeck is 
so very long on these boats.  I don't want the dodger any taller than 
absolutely necessary for aesthetic and visibility reasons.


Third, and this is the core purpose of me getting a dodger, how far back does 
your dodger extend over the forward end of the cockpit?   This is my #1 reason 
for getting a dodger because The Admiral needs a cozy,  SHADY spot where she 
can sit facing backwards up against the cabin top bulkhead and read a book 
while I toil away sailing the boat.   If the dodger stops at the aft end of the 
cabin top,  it won't provide any shade to the cockpit thus defeating the whole 
purpose.   Do you guys get any usable shade in the front of the cockpit from 
your dodgers?  A bimini is out of the question;  not only do I absolutely hate 
biminis, but my travelers is in the cockpit in front of the pedestal making a 
bimini pretty much impractical. 


I really want this done right... any input will be much appreciated! 


-Dave

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com


___ Email address: 
CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing 
-- go to the bottom of page at: 
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List boom/ goosemeck

2015-10-23 Thread William Walker via CnC-List

On the sungject of goosenecks, one of the tangs on my fitting on the mast broke 
off from wear.   I shipped broken piece to Guido at Garhauer and he made new 
out of stainless to fit perfectly and used same hole pattern so no new holes to 
tap.  Can't remember cost, but I felt it was cheap at the time.
Bill Walker
CnC 36



Sent from AOL Mobile Mail

On Thursday, October 22, 2015 Jim Watts via CnC-List  
wrote:

Our gooseneck assembly was a little worn down where the boom fitting rode on 
the mast base, I put 3 nylon washers in between the boom and the mast fittings 
and that shut that noise down. I'm still tracking the squeak off the mainsheet 
and the weird noise the topping lift makes. McLube helps everywhere. 


Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC


On 22 October 2015 at 18:26, Graham Collins via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Hello Harald
Mine did that when we bought the boat, ours was noisy when the main was up 
though.  The issue we had was that the horizontal pin in the gooseneck had worn 
the holes oblong, so they were not a nice fit on the pin any more.  I bought a 
couple of brass bushings, drilled out the hole oversized, and pressed them in 
with a c-clamp.  This has been quiet for a number of years now (I think 3, 
maybe 4, not sure).

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11



On 2015-10-22 12:24 PM, Harald Braun via CnC-List wrote:

Hi, I have a 1985 35 MK 3 C&C and my boom was making this awful squecking, 
grinding noise, once the main was down. I lubed it and still no luck. Really 
annoying in an anchorage. Anybody has any suggestions?

Harald
Kitchener, On

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com





___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com


___ Email address: 
CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing 
-- go to the bottom of page at: 
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Vinyl letters - experiences?

2015-10-23 Thread William Walker via CnC-List

Used Boatname.com. three times on different boats. All stuck well and held up. 
Five years on this boat so far.  And,, gave me price break on reorder to repair 
a fellow boaters hard landing on me while attempting to raft off this summer.  
Slow is pro was not her motto.   
Bill Walker
CnC 36
Pentwater, Mi



Sent from AOL Mobile Mail

On Thursday, October 22, 2015 Rick Brass via CnC-List  
wrote:

I bought the decals on Belle at an Atlantic City Boat Show (back when they 
still had them) from a company that specialized in  lettering for boats. Not 
Boat/US. That was back in about 95 or 96 and the letting is still in great 
shape with no noticeable fading.

 

Had to replace one set of decals on Imzadi when I had some paint touch up done 
in 2009. Used a national quickie sign folks. There are already parts of the 
decal sluffing off and brittle from the UV. There must be a difference in the 
materials used.

 

Rick Brass

Imzadi  C&C 38 mk 2

la Belle Aurore C&C 25 mk1

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, October 22, 2015 12:24 PM
To: CnClist 
Cc: Dennis C. 
Subject: Stus-List Vinyl letters - experiences?

 

Speaking of vinyl letters, I believe there is a difference in quality and 
service life of vinyl letters depending on suppliers.  

The first decal I had on Touche' looked good for over ten years.  I removed it 
to repaint the topsides.  I have also had several iterations of the Touche' 
logo on the side windows of my SUV's.  

The first set of decals was made by a local sign company.  This company does 
the local police and sheriff's vehicles.  The last few I had made at one of the 
nationwide quickie sign companies.

IMO, the decal made by the local company seemed to last longer. 

I'm considering using BoatUS or going back to the local sign company for the 
next set of decals. I have the logo digitally in several common formats so I 
can deal with most suppliers.

Anybody got any light to shed on this subject?

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

___ Email address: 
CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing 
-- go to the bottom of page at: 
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Raptor Deck Seattle - help

2015-10-27 Thread William Walker via CnC-List

I redid cockpit sole with kiwi grip two summers ago.  Had tinted at home depot 
to match color. 
Great product, and with a little efffort really matches the factory non skid.  
Still looks great.  I hVe enough left to do again from one quart.
Bill Walker
CnC 36



Sent from AOL Mobile Mail

On Tuesday, October 27, 2015 David Knecht via CnC-List  
wrote:

I looked into putting Raptordeck on my cockpit floor.  I had great trouble 
getting in contact with them and working out details of how to get the shape 
correct.  In the end, I decided to use Kiwigrip as it was much cheaper.  A 
quart can easily did my cockpit floor.  It was very easy to put on (especially 
with two people) once you got the hang of it.  and I am very happy with the 
results.  I don’t think softness underfoot is a big issue since I have never 
had anything but fiberglass underfoot in any boat before.  The Kiwgrip has been 
great in terms of traction and now I want to do the rest of the boat as the 
difference between the cockpit floor and everywhere else is dramatic.  Have 
only had it for a few months, so can’t comment on longevity.  Dave


Aries

1990 C&C 34+

New London, CT


 


On Oct 26, 2015, at 1:01 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
wrote:


Does anybody know if these guys are still in business?  I tried calling and 
emailing.  Both fail.

http://www.raptordeck.com/

i...@raptordeck.com+1 (707) 278 6749 "70-RAPTOR-49"

6319 Seaview Ave. NW. Seattle, WA, 98107, USA



Dennis C.

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com


___ Email address: 
CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing 
-- go to the bottom of page at: 
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Vacation II St Martin

2015-11-25 Thread William Walker via CnC-List

Its been many years ago but Stars and Stripes and Canada were there and doing 
daysails.  At time, had two crew plus the tourists on board.  Did a little race 
around bouys.  If you had sailing experience they let you work.  I was main 
sail trimmer.  Others grinders, etc.  One beer wench.  Best 60 bucks I spent 
entire trip.  Don't know if still there.
Bill Walker
CnC 36

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail

On Wednesday, November 25, 2015 Syerdave--- via CnC-List 
 wrote:
On the off chance - going to St Martin for a week over Xmas, staying near 
oyster pond. Anyone aware of daysailer rentals in the area? Tx! 
___ Email address: 
CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing 
-- go to the bottom of page at: 
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Vacation II St Martin

2015-11-25 Thread William Walker via CnC-List

Well for sure it isn't the Americas Cup, Eds, and I agree with all you said, 
but it still was a fun two hours or so.  I would do it again. 
Bill Walker

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail

On Wednesday, November 25, 2015 Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
 wrote:

The Americas Cup Challenge Excursion is still there. Did it a few years ago. If 
you know anything about racing and are paying attention, it’s more than a 
little disappointing. The skippers will purposely mis-steer, mis-trim and go to 
the song gate marks in order to ensure it’s a close finish. They’ve also 
modified the boats tremendously.


All the best,


Edd



Edd M. Schillay

Starship Enterprise

C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B

City Island, NY 












On Nov 25, 2015, at 8:57 AM, William Walker via CnC-List 
 wrote:


Its been many years ago but Stars and Stripes and Canada were there and doing 
daysails.  At time, had two crew plus the tourists on board.  Did a little race 
around bouys.  If you had sailing experience they let you work.  I was main 
sail trimmer.  Others grinders, etc.  One beer wench.  Best 60 bucks I spent 
entire trip.  Don't know if still there.
Bill Walker
CnC 36

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail



___ Email address: 
CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing 
-- go to the bottom of page at: 
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List depth transducer replacement

2015-12-10 Thread William Walker via CnC-List

Eric,
 Do it.  Missed seeing you this summer.
Bill Walker
Evening Star


Sent from AOL Mobile Mail

On Thursday, December 10, 2015 Eric Frank via CnC-List  
wrote:
A question about removing a depth transducer to install the new one. Based on 
earlier input from the list, I have used a 2 inch hole saw from the top. 
Fortunately the diameter of the old transducer is just shy of 2 in and the new 
one requires a 2 in hole. So the body of the old transducer just fits inside 
the hole saw, keeping it lined up with little drag (not cutting much of the 
plastic body of the transducer). When the inside top of the hole saw reached 
the top of the transducer, I then cut off the top half of the transducer so I 
could proceed drilling down. Now the hole saw just touches the hull, but the 
inside top of the hole saw hits the top of the transducer, so I will need to 
saw off the next section of the transducer to proceed further. With my tools, 
not so easy to saw off the transducer just above the hull. Question: what about 
drilling down thru the transducer with a regular drill bit, using the pilot 
hole made by the drill bit in the hole saw, and then, using that hole as a 
guide, use the hole saw to proceed up from the outside of the hull. This would 
avoid cutting thru more of the transducer (a pain), and the pilot hole should 
guide the hole saw. Sound OK, or better to continue from the top? Thanks as 
always for your input. Eric Frank Cat's Paw C&C 35 Mk II Mattapoisett, MA 
___ Email address: 
CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing 
-- go to the bottom of page at: 
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List replacing a wheel autopilot motor

2015-12-14 Thread William Walker via CnC-List

EXCELLENT.  I am saving this.
Bill Walker
CnC 36
Evening Star
Pentwater, Mi

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Stus-List Venetian parade

2015-12-18 Thread William Walker via CnC-List

I would love to hear ideas for lighting the boat for Venetian parades.  LED?  
Can I use Christmas lights that are on sale?  No generator on board. 
Bill Walker
CnC 36


Sent from AOL Mobile Mail___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Venetian parade

2015-12-19 Thread William Walker via CnC-List

What is a clamp on inverter?
Bill Walker

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail

On Friday, December 18, 2015 Josh Muckley via CnC-List  
wrote:

Cigarette lighter inverter should be able to power a good number of LED 
strings.  A clamp on inverter would be an even better guarantee of sufficient 
power.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD 

On Dec 18, 2015 10:08 PM, "William Walker via CnC-List"  
wrote:

I would love to hear ideas for lighting the boat for Venetian parades.  LED?  
Can I use Christmas lights that are on sale?  No generator on board. 
Bill Walker
CnC 36

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com


___ Email address: 
CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing 
-- go to the bottom of page at: 
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Cost to recover cushions - ouch

2015-12-19 Thread William Walker via CnC-List

Neil,
White Lake Michigan?  If you get to Pentwater give a shout.  What yard do you 
store at?
Bill Walker
CnC 36
Evening Star
Pentwater, Mi

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail

On Saturday, December 19, 2015 Schiller via CnC-List  
wrote:
We are having the cushions redone on Corsair by the yard that we do our winter 
storage. They have already done cockpit cushions, Bimini and dodger for us. 
Didn't even ask a price. We really need new cushions. The old ones are 
disintegrating. They will do the backs on the boat as Dennis said. We will need 
the new cushions next year when the boat is in White Lake and we are weekending 
instead of days ailing. Neil Schiller 1970 Redwing 35, Hull #7 (C&C 35, Mark I) 
Corsair Currently on the Empire Builder to Seattle Sent from my iPhone > 

On Dec 18, 2015, at 1:57 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
wrote: > > Many of you are fortunate to have all separate removable cushions, 
bottoms and backs. Touche's dinette and settee backs are single rolled and 
pleated wraparound units stapled to the cabinetry. I like the look. It would be 
very pricey to replace because the workman would almost certainly have to come 
to the boat. > > Many owners have removed this look and gone with separate 
cushion backs. > > Dennis C. > ___ 
> > Email address: > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > To change your list preferences, 
including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: > 
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > 
___ Email address: 
CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing 
-- go to the bottom of page at: 
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Venetian parade

2015-12-19 Thread William Walker via CnC-List

Got it, thanks. 
Bill Walker

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail

On Saturday, December 19, 2015 Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
 wrote:

A clamp on inverter is temporary and more powerful than a cigarette lighter 
inverter but still considerably less powerful than a permanent installation 
type.  It has jumper cable clamps for attaching to the battery studs.  The 
following is just one example.

BESTEK 2 AC Outlets 1000W Power Inverter with Battery Clamps and Car Cigarette 
Lighter Plug 
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007SLDDHQ/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_NGwDwbG6XRHSP

To my surprise, my marine surveyor actually advised against permanent 
installation style inverters.  He explained that a typical 2000w inverter can 
draw so much current that a "proper" and safe install is challenging.  He had 
apparently seen quite a few fires as a result of bad inverters or poor 
installations (inadequate conductor size, insufficient cooling, too small of a 
battery bank).  He advised that most appliances can be found in 12v variants 
and are more efficient.  If/when the occasional need (xmas lights) for 120v 
presents itself a clamp-on is what he recommended.

Josh Muckley 
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD 

On Dec 19, 2015 8:30 AM, "William Walker via CnC-List"  
wrote:

What is a clamp on inverter?
Bill Walker

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail

On Friday, December 18, 2015 Josh Muckley via CnC-List  
wrote:

Cigarette lighter inverter should be able to power a good number of LED 
strings.  A clamp on inverter would be an even better guarantee of sufficient 
power.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD 

On Dec 18, 2015 10:08 PM, "William Walker via CnC-List"  
wrote:

I would love to hear ideas for lighting the boat for Venetian parades.  LED?  
Can I use Christmas lights that are on sale?  No generator on board. 
Bill Walker
CnC 36

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com


___ Email address: 
CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing 
-- go to the bottom of page at: 
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com


___ Email address: 
CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing 
-- go to the bottom of page at: 
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Folding prop for 30-1 with A4

2015-12-22 Thread William Walker via CnC-List

Ditto my Max prop. 
Bill Walker
CnC 36
Pentwater, Mi

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail

On Tuesday, December 22, 2015 Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List 
 wrote:

My (Feathering, not folding) Max Prop  2 blade is excellent in reverse as well. 
Of course, you should look at the oft cited Practical Sailor report on folding 
and feathering props for more objective opinions. Should be easy to find


Kevin

30-2

PDX


On Tue, Dec 22, 2015 at 9:32 AM Michael Brown via CnC-List 
 wrote:

I have a Gori 2 blade 11.5 x 8 on Windburn, a 77 30-1 with an Atomic 4 ( 
Stevedore ).
My guess is that at 8 it is over pitched but 11.5 x 8 appears to be the 
smallest standard
Gori prop size. I can get to about 6.2 kts into light weather, and can tow 
another 10,000 lb
boat into waves at 5 kts. Reverse is fine though full power at a standstill can 
invoke a lot
of prop walk.

The advantage of being over pitched is that during light motor sailing the 
Atomic 4 is just
above idle, quiet and smooth. 

I have no complaints, though I usually am under auxiliary only coming in and 
out of the club.
If your usage included days of motoring into current and waves and as a cruiser 
you are
carrying more weight ( Windburn is pretty light for racing ) then I would be 
concerned about
the 8 pitch. When I spoke with a Gori rep at the Toronto boat show he mentioned 
they can
make the props at different pitches.

Michael Brown
Windburn
C&C 30-1

Date: Tue, 22 Dec 2015 10:10:28 -0500 

From: cenel...@aol.com 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 

Subject: Re: Stus-List Folding prop for 30-1 with A4 

Message-ID: <151ca3dd4c9-520f-...@webprd-m99.mail.aol.com> 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" 



No two blade prop will do very well in reverse although I would get a geared 
one so that you can be sure that it opened. 

If you race, the lowest drag 2 blade demonstrated by tests in Yachting magazine 
was a Gori--which I have used for several years without problems. 

It takes a few seconds running in reverse to start 'biting' and moving the boat 
but she will move the boat. Once the boat is moving, 
you start to get some flow over the rudder and can actually steer. 

Just be sure you have reasonable room around the boat when you go to reverse. 

In my case, I coast to almost a dead stop, put it in reverse and rev the engine 
to get her moving 
in reverse and then steer her toward the slip with judicious use of low 
throttle in reverse or neutral. 

Without serious wind or tides, this method works for me--she only goes back 
into forward to stop her in the slip. 
If something messes up this scheme, back to open water and repeat! 

Maneuvering in close quarters between reverse and forward with several seconds 
delay is to be avoided with any folding prop IMHO. 

Charlie Nelson 
C&C 36 XL/kcb 
Water Phantom 

cenel...@aol.com 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

___ Email address: 
CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing 
-- go to the bottom of page at: 
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Cabin Folding Table

2016-01-01 Thread William Walker via CnC-List

Tom ,
   I have an 81 CnC 36.  My saloon folding table has a storage are in middle.  
The table is secured to mast by large hose type clamps that go around mast and 
whose tightening bolts go through front of the storage compartment.  Clear as 
mud , huh.  Sorry no pictures until spring.  
Bill Walker
Pentwater Mi
___ Email address: 
CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing 
-- go to the bottom of page at: 
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Bulkhead mounted drop down table

2016-01-01 Thread William Walker via CnC-List

Charlie (and others who might not know)
 I feel your pain about the weight and space of your original table.  That 
said, if you remove it from the boat you should report that as a modification 
to the boat on your  phrf application.  Should you win a big race the 
inspection committee might ding you for not having the table on board.  You may 
have already done this, and know this, just trying to be helpful as my wife 
likes to say.  
  Ok, everyone, discuss.   Lol 
Bill Walker
CnC 36
Cold on shores of Lake Michigan

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail

On Friday, January 1, 2016 Charlie Nelson via CnC-List  
wrote:

My 36 XL/kcb was delivered with a relatively massive table bolted to the the 
cabin sole which had 2 fold down leaves. 


This table sort of wrapped around the bast so that when the leaves opened, the 
table surface was centered fore and aft

and athwartships so that 4+ people could sit around it although getting our 
from the curved port settee was difficult.


To have any room for racing crew, I removed it years ago since I don't really 
cruise with the boat.


I would like to build or buy a lightweight table that could be mast mounted 
(preferred) or bulkhead mounted (probably too short in this case) and fold up

out of the way when not used. It would be nice to also have folding leaves. 


It might also be made to be pulled up to the underside of the coach roof while 
being constrained by the mast when not in use and

locked to the cabin cole when in use.


I would like it to be relatively light weight in either case.


Any photos or ideas from the list on a similar table or a design for one? 


Charlie Nelson

Water Phantom

C&C 36 XL/kcb


cenel...@aol.com

___ Email address: 
CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing 
-- go to the bottom of page at: 
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Automatic bilge pump switch help

2016-01-02 Thread William Walker via CnC-List

I bought a check valve from Grainger plumbing five years ago a d wouldn't look 
back.   Keep your bilge clean and you won't have a problem.  Installed right 
next to bilge pump so access easy.  
Raise switch a little, put in che Ck valve. Done.
Bill Walker
CnC 36

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail

On Saturday, January 2, 2016 Dennis C. via CnC-List  
wrote:

Despite the "conventional wisdom" against check valves in bilge discharges, 
I've had one in Touche' for a decade and a half with no issues whatsoever.  I 
think the secret is the type of check valve one installs.  Jabsco, Whale and 
Bosworth make check valves for bilge discharges.  I have this one:  
http://www.westmarine.com/buy/bosworth--nylon-in-line-check-valves--P011_332_003_515


The bilge in the 35-1 has so little volume that my 1500 gph centrifugal pump 
just spurts and stops.  If it were not for the check valve, I'd simply be 
filling and draining the hose continuously.

Your other choice would be a diaphragm pump (which I think Joel said he already 
has).

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA


On Sat, Jan 2, 2016 at 6:06 PM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
 wrote:

I think that there is general consensus that a check valve in a bilge pump hose 
is not a good thing.

 

But honestly I don’t have a good solution for avoiding the water coming back.

 

Marek

 


___ Email address: 
CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing 
-- go to the bottom of page at: 
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Bulkhead mounted drop down table

2016-01-03 Thread William Walker via CnC-List

Eric,
  Interesting.  Lake Michigan phrf regs do not contain such an exception and 
state that base handicap "assumes standard hull AND interior".  The regs 
also reference any interior appointments that are modified or customized must 
be fully described in application.  The regs are under revision so maybe this 
will change for lmphrf.  If so, my table is GONE!
BILL WALKER
CNC 36
PENTWATER, MI

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail

On Sunday, January 3, 2016 Eric Baumes via CnC-List  
wrote:

I have a c&c 34+ and I removed the table for the same reasons as you.


I have had a "temporary" table for the past couple years that we use when 
cruising. I built it on one of these 
http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|7504|2290226|2290231&id=1536893. 
The base is through bolted through the floor and the tube and table are 
removeable.


The table top is currently plywood but I have plans to make a more permanant 
one out of teak or teak veneer. When I get around to this I will use two 
pedestal stands as the table is a little wobbly with only one.


I don't have a pic but I will take one next time I am at board.


In terms of the Rating the YRALIS PHRF Regulations state:


Proper Racing Trim 


Yachts shall race as rated with at least all the equipment and furnishings 
supplied as standard by the manufacturer. A yacht that has altered or has 
removed bulkheads, permanently attached furniture, or structural interior 
components shall be considered a custom yacht. Drawers, headliners, cabinet and 
locker doors, steps, ladders, and engine enclosures shall remain in place as 
supplied as standard equipment. If they do not so remain, then the yacht shall 
be considered a custom yacht and rated accordingly. Passageway doors, cushions, 
dining tables, and carpets are specifically exempted, and are alterable or 
removable provided all safety standards are met. Lifting keels (not designed to 
be adjusted while racing) must be fixed and locked in the lowered position 
while racing.


You may want to check your local regs.


Eric 


S/V Hee Soo



On Fri, Jan 1, 2016 at 3:28 PM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List 
 wrote:

My 36 XL/kcb was delivered with a relatively massive table bolted to the the 
cabin sole which had 2 fold down leaves. 


This table sort of wrapped around the bast so that when the leaves opened, the 
table surface was centered fore and aft

and athwartships so that 4+ people could sit around it although getting our 
from the curved port settee was difficult.


To have any room for racing crew, I removed it years ago since I don't really 
cruise with the boat.


I would like to build or buy a lightweight table that could be mast mounted 
(preferred) or bulkhead mounted (probably too short in this case) and fold up

out of the way when not used. It would be nice to also have folding leaves. 


It might also be made to be pulled up to the underside of the coach roof while 
being constrained by the mast when not in use and

locked to the cabin cole when in use.


I would like it to be relatively light weight in either case.


Any photos or ideas from the list on a similar table or a design for one? 


Charlie Nelson

Water Phantom

C&C 36 XL/kcb


cenel...@aol.com


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com



___ Email address: 
CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing 
-- go to the bottom of page at: 
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Jib sheet

2016-01-06 Thread William Walker via CnC-List

I went with two sheets, each with an eye splice secured with soft shackles to 
Clew of sail.  Absolutely nothing to get hung up on babystay.  Love the 
arrangement.  
Bill Walker
CnC 36
Pentwater, Mi

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail

On Wednesday, January 6, 2016 Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
 wrote:
Mike, If you ever need to cut free a jib sheet, (to deal with a winch override 
or other calamity) it is better to have two sheets tied to the clew than just 
one continuous sheet with a cow hitch in the middle (or even luggage tagged to 
the sail). If you tie your bowlines with small eyes and long tails, you won't 
likely snag your baby stay with the knot. If you're contemplating the single 
sheet alternative, don't put any hardware at the connection point to the clew 
as you'll get whacked by it when the sail if flogging and it will hurt like 
hell! Having been a bow guy on a C&C 40 for 10+ years (with a baby stay), I can 
testify to the wisdom of having two sheets. Chuck Gilchrest Half Magic 1975 25 
Mk 1 S/V Orion 1983 35 Landfall Padanaram, MA 

-Original Message- From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Michael Crombie via 
CnC-List Sent: Wednesday, January 6, 2016 8:32 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: 
mcrom...@bell.blackberry.net Subject: Stus-List Jib sheet The Toronto Boat show 
is approaching and i'm putting together my list. My jib sheets have seen better 
days so I need to replace them. Am thinking of going with a single sheet with a 
ring hitch at the clew because my bowlines tend to snag on the baby stay. Is 
there any reason NOT to do this?? Also, any recommendations on material? I 
don't race (this boat), just coastal cruising. Cheers, Mike Atacama 33mkii. 
Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network. Envoyé sans fil 
par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell. 
___ Email address: 
CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing 
-- go to the bottom of page at: 
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 
___ Email address: 
CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing 
-- go to the bottom of page at: 
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Stus-List Annapolis Performance Sailing

2016-01-18 Thread William Walker via CnC-List

Guys,
  Wanted to report that I stupidly ordered a new halyard from APS in December, 
not thinking that they would be having sale in January.  Well, they, on their 
own, held the order into January and gave me the 25% off.  Nice people.
  BTW, enjoyed the Chicago Boat Show this weekend.
Bill Walker
CnC 36
Evening Star
Pentwater, Mi
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List replacing Teak and Holly sole

2016-01-26 Thread William Walker via CnC-List

Mike,
 I did the sole replacement two years ago on my 36.  Some thoughts.
  I used router with round over bit on back side to get proper radius.
  I epoxied both sides, using foam roller.  Slow cure west system.  Good base. 
  I overdrilled fastener holes and filled with thickened epoxy, then redrilled. 
 These holes are where water intrusion frequently starts.
  I varnished 8 coats, light sanding between.  Again, foam roller worked well.
  Though I used the old floor as template, when epoxy and varnish added a 
couple sections were tight, though they fit, they squeaked a bit and I ended up 
sanding and redoing several edges.  Leaves enough room for the finishes you 
choose.
   I think your work space needs some heat.  I wouldn't varnish at 50 degrees.  
Don't forget the boards may be colder than that if temps dip at times in that 
space.   
   Good luck.  Makes boat look new.
Bill Walker
CnC 36
Pentwater, Mi


Sent from AOL Mobile Mail

On Tuesday, January 26, 2016 Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List  
wrote:

I am replacing the original sole on Persistence.  It was ¾ inch teak and holly 
and thankfully can all be done with one 4x8 sheet.  Thankfully especially since 
the one sheet I purchased is $609 CAD after taxes!

 

I have already replaced the sole in the past on our J27 also teak and Holly and 
noted a few things that time that I may do differently

 

My plan is to use the old sole as a template and thankfully that is in my 
garage already.  It was screwed in place with countersunk screws which I also 
plan to do with the replacement.  Once cut out the piece and all the niches are 
cut out for any hardware I hope to coat both the underside and the top of the 
sole with one coat of epoxy.  Following that there will be up to 6 coats of 
epiphanes on the top of the sole

 

Epoxy on wood:

The last time I only coated the underside becuase it did not flow evenly.  I 
believe this is because I used Fast Hardener rather than slow hardener.  I have 
never had much luck with the flow of epoxy on wood so will again start with the 
underside to see how this works out.  Any comments on the levelling properties 
and techniques with epoxy would be welcomed.  I plan to use West with the slow 
hardener.   If the epoxy on the underside looks good I will then put one coat 
on top of sole as a base before the varnish.  It is my intention to do this 
over the winter in my garage which is in the basement of my house but not 
heated.  Temperatures are typically around 10 degrees Celcius (50F)

 

Varnish over epoxy:

On the J27 I made one small mistake.  The sole in the J27 was comprised of 
several panels and I did not think to line up the holly stripes between the two 
main halves.  It bothered only me but will not occur this time when I cut out 
the panel that is forward near head compartment.  With no epoxy under the 
varnish and a wet boat like the J27 I found that stowing wet or damp spin and 
jib sheets on the sole in the head area discoloured the varnish and even the 
wood itself.  On top of that some mildew worked its way into the finish from 
this.  After year one the sheets had hooks to hang on but the damage, although 
superficial, was done.  Am assuming that the epoxy layer beneath several coats 
of varnish will prevent this discolouration in the event a wet item spends 
significant time on the sole.  Any comments on this?  Persistence is quite dry 
inside but some water does come down the mast and pool occasionally on the sole.

 

Aside from measure many times and then cut once ($609 per sheet) are there any 
other pearls of wisdom before I start this project?  It seems a relatively 
simple project but also one where  a misstep will be very obvious for years to 
come …

 

Mike

Persistence

Halifax

 

___ Email address: 
CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing 
-- go to the bottom of page at: 
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Boom vanging...

2016-01-29 Thread William Walker via CnC-List

Eric,
  I would be concerned that aluminum pop rivets wouldn't be strong enough.  
They may be.  I drilled and tapped for stainless, used antiseize.  Have removed 
one at a time yearly since just to check.  All good.  
Bill Walker
CnC 36
Evening Star
Pentwater, Mi

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail





On Friday, January 29, 2016 Eric Frank via CnC-List  
wrote:

Just installing a Garhauer boom vang on Cat’s Paw this winter.  Do you guys 
recommend aluminum pop rivets - in case I ever need to remove it?  In my 
experience, SS screws tapped into the mast or boom hold fine but are a devil to 
get out because of electrolysis.  The pop rivets can just be drilled out.

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C&C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA 


___ Email address: 
CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing 
-- go to the bottom of page at: 
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Boom vanging...

2016-01-29 Thread William Walker via CnC-List

Tef-gel is what I always use too
Bill Walker

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail

On Friday, January 29, 2016 Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Agreed, drill & tap, and use TefGel or something like it as an anti-seize.


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(


On Jan 29, 2016, at 4:28 PM, William Walker via CnC-List 
 wrote:


Eric,
  I would be concerned that aluminum pop rivets wouldn't be strong enough.  
They may be.  I drilled and tapped for stainless, used antiseize.  Have removed 
one at a time yearly since just to check.  All good.  
Bill Walker
CnC 36
Evening Star
Pentwater, Mi

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail



On Friday, January 29, 2016 Eric Frank via CnC-List  
wrote:

Just installing a Garhauer boom vang on Cat’s Paw this winter.  Do you guys 
recommend aluminum pop rivets - in case I ever need to remove it?  In my 
experience, SS screws tapped into the mast or boom hold fine but are a devil to 
get out because of electrolysis.  The pop rivets can just be drilled out.

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C&C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA


___ Email address: 
CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing 
-- go to the bottom of page at: 
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Diesel Heaters and installation

2016-02-05 Thread William Walker via CnC-List

Steve,
  I have an espar  installed by po, no problems in five years.  But, does have 
significant current draw at start up.  I need to start engine to fire up unless 
on shore power.  After it gets going no problem.  Outlet in main cabin, v berth 
 and head.  
Bill Walker 
Pentwater Mi 
CnC  36

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail

On Friday, February 5, 2016 Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List  
wrote:

Hi All,


I'm starting to look at the Espar and Webasto units. Is anyone running one on a 
32? There's a good price jump from the Espar D2 to the D4. The literature 
indicates the D2 is good to 26 feet of boat, so it sounds like I need the D4 :(


My use is Georgian Bay, just want to extend the season, not living aboard in 
the winter. The boat is two hours away so there will be "maintenance" trips in 
the spring and fall which means sleeping aboard, it can get quite cold up 
there. 


I have to keep the temps warm for the boat parrot who'll be living aboard with 
us while we cruise. We're planning three weeks in August this year so it 
shouldn't be too much of an issue but it gets cold up there at night, even in 
August. I imagine a D2 would be fine for cold summer nights but I have ideas 
about maybe cruising the North Channel when the fall colours are out. I don't 
want to limit myself. At the same time, I don't want to spend money that could 
go elsewhere. 


The Newport Dickinson Diesel bulkhead heaters are pretty but I hear they don't 
make quite enough heat. I'm leaning this way for the cost, but don't want to be 
disappointed. Everyone says the Espar and Webastos are best. 


I'de be doing the installation myself in any case so am eager to hear from 
others who have gone through it. 


Thanks,


Steve

Suhana, C&C 32

Toronto



___ Email address: 
CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing 
-- go to the bottom of page at: 
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Diesel Heaters and installation

2016-02-06 Thread William Walker via CnC-List

Graham,
Your thoughts would appreciated on start up draw. Prior owner installed in
port Lazarette. He is particular guy, all looks well done, but he told me
about current draw and starting engine to get it going. After its running
seems to do fine off twin house batteries.
Bill Walker
CnC 36
Pentwater, Mi

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail

On Saturday, February 6, 2016 Graham Collins via CnC-List
wrote:

The Espar has an air intake hose, so provided the end of the hose is clear of
any fumes you are good to go. You could connect that through 'to the main
cabin if you wanted for enhanced piece of mind. If you have flammable vapor in
your main cabin then all bets are off...

And these things are pretty miserly, I might go through a gallon or two while
working on the boat in the winter. So a tiny fuel tank would be adequate.

I'm surprised at Bill's comment about startup draw, I run mine off batteries
all the time and have never had an issue.
Graham Collins Secret Plans C&C 35-III #11

On 2016-02-06 1:45 PM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List wrote:

I'm reading the marine installation manual and have some questions:

- Under safety it reads: "The position of the combustion air must not allow
exhaust fumes or flammable vapour to be drawn in". I have a gasoline tank in my
engine compartment. Does this preclude me from installing one of these?

- Can anyone recommend a suitable fuel tank? I'de like something small that I
can top off from a jerry can, so I can secure it into place in the lazarette. 5
gallons maybe? What are others using if using a separate tank?

Thanks,

Steve

Suhana, C&C 32

Toronto

On Fri, Feb 5, 2016 at 8:11 PM, Stevan Plavsa wrote:

Hi Russ,

I figure with the newport, the tank is inside the cabin (somewhere behind the
bulkhead I would imagine, hanging locker on my boat likely). With the
espar/webasto, it's in the engine compartment. Also with the newport, this is
pretty much how i have to mount it:

http://www.thechandleryonline.com/images/productimages/thumbs/153_NewportHeaterInstalled.jpg

Starboard I have a dinette and of course the mast. Port side isn't optimal
either. Now that I'm thinking about the tank actually, and the venting, I'm not
really sure where I'de locate a tank for the newport.

Steve

Suhana, C&C 32

Toronto

On Fri, Feb 5, 2016 at 7:23 PM, Russ & Melody via CnC-List
wrote:

Hi Steve,

I should have listed install location in the "Cons:" list of the Newport
heater. It can be tricky.

The link I sent is for Newport diesel bulkhead unit. The D2 has a huge
advantage on heat output on low settings, not to be overlooked. The Admiral & I
are a big fan of radiant heat, also not to be overlooked.

Diesel is the fuel for both heaters and tank location with proper venting is
the same for both, so diesel odour is a wash, so to speak. The tank can be
almost anywhere for either unit and if elevation is such that gravity feed is
not going to work for the bulkhead heater then you get a little impulse pump
similar to what the Espar uses. I would see about putting the tank in the
cockpit combing area, that's high enough and easy to fit a deck fill to keep
everything outside. Either heater would like a 2 - 4 gallon tank since you're
looking at up to 1 gallon a day use in cold conditions maybe a bit less for the
D2.

On the 40' wooden boat I'm fitting out for retirement cruising I will have both
types of heaters so I won't need to choose which one is best. :)

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1
Vancouver Island

At 03:24 PM 05/02/2016, you wrote:

Thanks for the helpful replies, all.

Russ, I really love the idea of the newport heaters, to be honest, I like the
idea of solid fuel the most. A proper wood fire is one of my favourite things.
But the only units worth getting are expensive wood stove types, which are
super nice, but I can't justify the expense and they have drawbacks on a boat.
The espar is appealing because it's out of the way. The problem for me with the
diesel newport is the fuel. I have an A4 powered boat and one thing I really
like about my boat is that it doesn't smell like diesel! The bulkhead diesel
heater would necessitate a gravity tank somewhere inside and I'm not sure where
I'de have space, maybe in the hanging locker. I'm concerned about the diesel
smell. Most of what I've read about them is good however and to your point,
maybe more heat than the D2, less money for sure. It's still an option, will my
boat smell like diesel?Â

Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto

On Fri, Feb 5, 2016 at 6:15 PM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List
wrote:
How much fuel does the Espar burn an hour? I use a propane tent heater the
warms the cabin for 6 hrs on a small canister, but it's not dry heat. It takes
the chill off, but doesn't dry the inside

Re: Stus-List Diesel Heaters and installation

2016-02-07 Thread William Walker via CnC-List

Thanks Graham I may do that in the spring.
Bill

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail

On Sunday, February 7, 2016 Graham Collins via CnC-List
wrote:

Hi Bill
It might be worth contacting Espar about it, I don't think that should be
running like that. The D5 I'm running is a fair sized unit, and startup has
never been a big power hit.
Graham Collins Secret Plans C&C 35-III #11

On 2016-02-06 5:17 PM, William Walker via CnC-List wrote:

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail

On Saturday, February 6, 2016 Graham Collins via CnC-List
wrote:

And these things are pretty miserly, I might go through a gallon or two while
working on the boat in the winter. So a tiny fuel tank would be adequate.

I'm surprised at Bill's comment about startup draw, I run mine off batteries
all the time and have never had an issue.
Graham Collins Secret Plans C&C 35-III #11

On 2016-02-06 1:45 PM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List wrote:

I'm reading the marine installation manual and have some questions:

Thanks,

Steve

Suhana, C&C 32

Toronto

On Fri, Feb 5, 2016 at 8:11 PM, Stevan Plavsa wrote:

Hi Russ,

http://www.thechandleryonline.com/images/productimages/thumbs/153_NewportHeaterInstalled.jpg

Steve

Suhana, C&C 32

Toronto

On Fri, Feb 5, 2016 at 7:23 PM, Russ & Melody via CnC-List
wrote:

Hi Steve,

I should have listed install location in the "Cons:" list of the Newport
heater. It can be tricky.

On the 40' wooden boat I'm fitting out for retirement cruising I will have both
types of heaters so I won't need to choose which one is best. :)

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1
Vancouver Island

At 03:24 PM 05/02/2016, you wrote:

Thanks for the helpful replies, all.

Re: Stus-List Gooseneck fitting

2016-03-12 Thread William Walker via CnC-List

Mast Part or Boom end part?  I shipped my broken mast part of gooseneck when an 
"ear" broke off to Guido at Garhauer and he made me one out of stainless.  
Can't remember cost, but reasonable, around $100 I think.  Fit perfectly.
Bill Walker
Evening Star
CnC 36
Pentwater, Mi







-Original Message-
From: Alan Liles via CnC-List 
To: Stuslist 
Cc: Alan Liles 
Sent: Sat, Mar 12, 2016 12:22 pm
Subject: Stus-List Gooseneck fitting

Preparing to remove my rig, I found the gooseneck fitting (toggle?) worn around 
the vertical pin. Where might I source a new one. The boat is a '94 37/40+. I'm 
not sure of the manufacturer. 
On another note, is there a way to search subjects in the list archive? I'm 
sure this has come up before but I haven't found a way to retrieve the thread. 

Cheers, Al


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List To foam or not to foam...

2016-03-19 Thread William Walker via CnC-List

I have a UK tapedrive 144 with foam.  When furled it is smooth and clean right 
down to 100.  I can't speak to dacron.  But if done right it makes sense to me. 
Bill Walker 
CnC 36
Evening Star 
Pentwater, Mi 

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail



___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Rolly Tasker Sails

2016-03-27 Thread William Walker via CnC-List

At least in Lake Michigan, phrf  gives 3 seconds a mile if roller furled head 
sail has sunbrella vs none or lighter weight uv protection.  
Bill Walker 
CnC  36
Pentwater, Mi 


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List PHRF Adjustments for Spin and JAM in a single fleet

2015-03-21 Thread William Walker via CnC-List

Rick,
   I am no expert, but talking with Lake Michigan PHRF folks in past as Regatta 
Chair at our yacht club I am certain others have given good advice: it can't be 
done fairly.  Wind angle, speed course length etc etc all impact.  It is hard 
enough over 12 race season to feel like phrf is fair sometimes. 
  Stick with two fleets.  Fewer hard feelings.  
Bill Walker
Pentwater Mi
Evening Star
CnC 36___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List New instruments?

2015-03-26 Thread William Walker via CnC-List

I am replacing my kvh in May at Torresen Marine in Muskegon Michigan and will 
be listing on eBay after.  My top unit is sending properly, it's my analog wind 
read that has failed.   
Bill Walker
CnC  36 



Sent from AOL Mobile Mail

On Thursday, March 26, 2015 Chuck Borge via CnC-List  
wrote:

Hi Listers, 


I've got KVH Quadro instruments that are working properly, with the exception 
of Wind Speed.  The darn cups seem frozen and my wife can't seem to haul me up 
the mast.  Regardless, I'm assuming the bearing is toast or worse, and I'm not 
sure it is worth investing more money in such old technology. 

So the question is, while thinking about Defender's sale this weekend, should I 
swap out to a new Raymarine T-108 bundle?  How tough is the install?   

And lastly, is there a market for the KVH stuff to offset the cost of the new 
stuff? I've got a brain, 2 displays and the keypad, plus the aforementioned 
masthead unit (anemometer not functioning) 


Thanks for any advice, 


Chuck B 

C&C 34 Elusive 

Somerset, MA 

___ Email address: 
CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing 
-- go to the bottom of page at: 
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Stus-List (no subject)

2015-03-26 Thread William Walker via CnC-List


Chuck, 
  Going Garmin wired masthead, gmi 20 displays, linked to my Garmin 741 
chartplotter.  I may keep a couple displays which are good and move below and 
link in using the chartplotter as bridge.  
   I won't k ow what I am selling until install done, and may sell individually 
or package.  I will post here after installing in May. 
Email me at wwadjourned@Gmail com and I will give you first shot.  I have been 
looking for a analog wind display for two years and just gave up. 
Bill Walker





Sent from AOL Mobile Mail___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List KVH Quadro

2015-04-01 Thread William Walker via CnC-List

I have been looking for years and just made down payment on new Garmin system.  
I will be selling used but working parts in Late May or June.
Bill Walker
CnC 36
Pentwater, Mi 



Sent from AOL Mobile Mail

On Wednesday, April 1, 2015 Eric Baumes via CnC-List  
wrote:

Fellow KVH hangers on, 


A bunch of display items were put on ebay today. 


Worst ads ever, but they are there. 


http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=kvh&_sop=10&_sacat=0&_nkw=kvh+quadro&_from=R40&_trksid=m194&_osacat=0
 


Eric B. 

34/36 


Still running KVH quadro. 

___ Email address: 
CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing 
-- go to the bottom of page at: 
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List C&C 30 MK II

2015-04-24 Thread William Walker via CnC-List

Where are you.  



Sent from AOL Mobile Mail

On Friday, April 24, 2015 Paul via CnC-List  wrote:
Folks I am looking for a fresh water boat to buy also interested in talking to 
owners of Semi-Local or Gremellyn Thanks Paul Sent from my iPhone 
___ Email address: 
CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing 
-- go to the bottom of page at: 
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List halyards

2015-05-07 Thread William Walker via CnC-List

Ditto APS. They did my halyard last year on my 36 in crystalline.  I mailed 
them my shackle.  
Bill Walker



Sent from AOL Mobile Mail

On Thursday, May 7, 2015 Chuck S via CnC-List  wrote:

Hi Allen, 

Defender sells the wire to rope halyards.  All rope halyards can work in your 
sheaves if they are not chewed up.    The choices for halyards are many, mostly 
driven by cost.  I like Chrystalyne or V100 for Jib and main halyards.  The 
halyards on my 36 footer are 3/8". You may be able to go smaller to save bucks, 
weight and windage.  APSltd.com can advise: 800-729-9767.  I'd pay the extra 
moeny let them professionally splice on your schackles. 




Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C&C 34R 
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md 


From: "Allen White via CnC-List"  
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: "Allen White"  
Sent: Thursday, May 7, 2015 7:42:13 AM 
Subject: Stus-List halyards 


@font-face  {font-family:"Cambria Math";panose-1:2 4 5 3 5 4 6 3 2 4;} 
@font-face   {font-family:Calibri;   panose-1:2 15 5 2 2 2 4 3 2 4;} 
@font-face  {font-family:Tahoma;panose-1:2 11 6 4 3 5 4 4 2 4;} 
@font-face  {font-family:"Freestyle Script";panose-1:3 8 4 2 3 2 5 
11 4 4;} p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal{margin:0in;
margin-bottom:.0001pt;  font-size:11.0pt;   
font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";} a:link, span.MsoHyperlink  
{mso-style-priority:99; color:blue; text-decoration:underline;} 
a:visited, span.MsoHyperlinkFollowed{mso-style-priority:99; 
color:purple;   text-decoration:underline;} p.MsoAcetate, li.MsoAcetate, 
div.MsoAcetate {mso-style-priority:99; mso-style-link:"Balloon 
Text Char"; margin:0in; margin-bottom:.0001pt;  font-size:8.0pt;
font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif";} span.EmailStyle17   
{mso-style-type:personal-compose;   font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"; 
color:windowtext;} span.BalloonTextChar {mso-style-name:"Balloon Text 
Char";mso-style-priority:99;  mso-style-link:"Balloon Text";  
font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif";} .MsoChpDefault  
{mso-style-type:export-only;} @page WordSection1{size:8.5in 11.0in; 
margin:1.0in 1.0in 1.0in 1.0in;} div.WordSection1   {page:WordSection1;} 

I am sure this has been on the list before, but I cannot find it.

The wire to rope halyards on my 26 are done.  I think I should go to all rope.

Pros ,  cons

Does anyone know a good source for replacement sheaves ?

 

 

Allen 

Rhinebeck, NY

C & C 26  Windfall

 

 



 

This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. 
www.avast.com



___ 


Email address: 
CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at: 
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 



___ Email address: 
CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing 
-- go to the bottom of page at: 
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Stus-List Free Bow lights for parts

2015-05-11 Thread William Walker via CnC-List

I just replaced my bow lights with LED version.  Anyone need old ones for 
parts?  NO LENSES.  All other parts there. Cost of Shipping only.
Contact off list. wwadjour...@gmail.com
Bill Walker
1981 CnC 36



Sent from AOL Mobile Mail___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Prop Walk C&C 29-2

2015-05-14 Thread William Walker via CnC-List

While pain, take it in and out of gear and you will be fine.  Prop walk can be 
your friend once you learn to work with it. 
My 2 cents 
Bill Walker
CnC 36
Mi



Sent from AOL Mobile Mail

On Thursday, May 14, 2015 Martin Kane via CnC-List  
wrote:
Boat was significantly over-propped when I acquired her. Largely because 
transmission ratio is 2.2:1 not 2.62:1 as stamped on the casing. While the 
props that came with the boat (a Gori 15X10 and a 3 blade fixed 14X9) were too 
big, prop walk was not an issue. Just installed a Campbell Sailor 12x6 and the 
prop walk is severe (in spite of the additional tip to hull clearance). It is 
basically impossible to turn the bow to port in reverse . The bow swings to 
starboard and then once there is some movement through the water will crab 
sideways, but the bow will not swing around to port. I have not found any 
combination of throttle and rudder position that makes the situation any 
better. I need to replace the prop to avoid getting into trouble in close 
quarters at some point. Question to C&C 29-2 owners: Has anyone found a prop 
that works well going forward and in reverse. Thanks in advance. Martin 
Recalculating C&C 29-2 Mimico Cruising Club 
___ Email address: 
CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing 
-- go to the bottom of page at: 
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Towing, Insurance, etc.

2015-05-18 Thread William Walker via CnC-List

Andrew,
  If you have homeowners insurance, ask agent about quoting you a marine rider. 
On a boat the size of yours should be no problem to get liability and agreed 
hull value policy.  I did it for years until I got my 36, then had to go to 
inland marine policy separate from homeowners.
  Btw, I am a lawyer, sorry guys, and most states have standard policy language 
which all policies have as a requirement of selling in that state.  But read 
the policy anyway.  You have a window to refuse the policy and get refund.  
Bill Walker
Lake Michigan. 



Sent from AOL Mobile Mail

On Monday, May 18, 2015 Andrew Frame via CnC-List  wrote:
Hello folks. New guy here again. I have discovered that SeaTow is the company 
to stay away from. But what about BoatUS? My specifics are not extreme: river 
sailing or always in sight of the coast, always daytime. My concern is 
liability in case of an accident with another vessel, or some kind of 
disability like a dismasting due to a snapped stay. 24' C&C, no engine. 
45-thrust trolling motor for maneuvering, and sail under way. Thanks for your 
thoughts. -- Andrew Frame C&C 24, Lehigh Acres/Alva, FL 
___ Email address: 
CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing 
-- go to the bottom of page at: 
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Teak oil suggestions?

2015-05-23 Thread William Walker via CnC-List

Come on varnish guys, speak up. Varnish varnish varnish.  Nuff said
Bill "8 coats" Walker
Evening Star, cnc 36
Pentwater, Mi.


Sent from AOL Mobile Mail

On Saturday, May 23, 2015 Wally Bryant via CnC-List  
wrote:
 
That's the teak oil I use on my cockpit seat, because varnish is too slippery. 
It holds up well. I painted everything else. The funny thing about paint is 
people ask me if it's Cetol. Wal 

On 5/23/2015 4:39 PM, davidrisch75 via CnC-List wrote: > Done with sanding and 
varnish. What say you? -- s/v Stella Blue www.wbryant.com 
___ Email address: 
CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing 
-- go to the bottom of page at: 
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Stus-List KVH instruments

2015-06-14 Thread William Walker via CnC-List

Just completed install of new instruments and have working depth, speed, wind 
from kvh.  What wasn't working when removed was analog wind display.  Two 
working displays, one large mast display, depth and speed transducers, mast 
head wind transducer, control pad, kvh brain 4321, wire, kvh autocomp 1000 
fluxgate sensor.
If you are trying to keep your kvh running make me an offer off list.  Going to 
eBay soon. I would think some of components would work with other systems 
though I am no expert. 
Bill Walker
wwadjour...@gmail.com




Sent from AOL Mobile Mail___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Queens Cup

2015-06-23 Thread William Walker via CnC-List

Sorry to hear it.  I will try to uphold the CnC name.  Leaving in the morning 
for Milwaukee and the Q Cup.
Bill Walker
Evening Star
CnC 36
Pentwater, Mi
 




Sent from AOL Mobile Mail

On Tuesday, June 23, 2015 schiller via CnC-List  wrote:

Well, the gods are not looking kindly on us.  Glenn's boat ('81 C&C-36) had a 
head gasket fail and on disassembly the mechanic also found the head cracked.  
Glenn tried hard, he found a re manufactured head and got it to White Lake 
today but there is still more work that needs to be done and it can't be 
completed in time for us to go across to Milwaukee and still be awake to race 
back to South Haven.  Oh well, we'll try again. 

I tried to blame the list for all of the discussion lately of blown head 
gaskets and replacement engines. 

Neil Schiller 
1970 Redwing 35, Hull #7 
(C&C 35, Mark I) 
"Corsair" 

On 6/18/2015 9:32 PM, schiller via CnC-List wrote: 

No.  I am slipped in South Haven so I'll get off there.  I'm sure that Glenn 
and crew will be ready to get back home Sunday (after resting in South Haven on 
Saturday). 

Neil Schiller 
1970 Redwing 35, Hull #7 
(C&C 35, Mark I) 
"Corsair" 
South Haven, Mi 

On 6/17/2015 4:06 PM, Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List wrote: 

Will you be doing the round-the-buoys race in Grand Haven next day? 

If they're still doing it. 

That was fun as well. 

Ron 

Wild Cheri 

C&C 30-1 

STL 



From: Jim Reinardy via CnC-List 
To: Edd Schillay via CnC-List  
Cc: Jim Reinardy  
Sent: Wednesday, June 17, 2015 2:07 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Marion Bermuda race


#yiv5942686016 #yiv5942686016 -- p.yiv5942686016MsoListParagraph, 
#yiv5942686016 li.yiv5942686016MsoListParagraph, #yiv5942686016 
div.yiv5942686016MsoListParagraph { 
margin-top:0in;margin-right:0in;margin-bottom:0in;margin-left:.5in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;}
 #yiv5942686016 p.yiv5942686016MsoNormal, #yiv5942686016 
li.yiv5942686016MsoNormal, #yiv5942686016 div.yiv5942686016MsoNormal { 
margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;} #yiv5942686016 
p.yiv5942686016MsoListParagraphCxSpFirst, #yiv5942686016 
li.yiv5942686016MsoListParagraphCxSpFirst, #yiv5942686016 
div.yiv5942686016MsoListParagraphCxSpFirst, #yiv5942686016 
p.yiv5942686016MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle, #yiv5942686016 
li.yiv5942686016MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle, #yiv5942686016 
div.yiv5942686016MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle, #yiv5942686016 
p.yiv5942686016MsoListParagraphCxSpLast, #yiv5942686016 
li.yiv5942686016MsoListParagraphCxSpLast, #yiv5942686016 
div.yiv5942686016MsoListParagraphCxSpLast { 
margin-top:0in;margin-right:0in;margin-bottom:0in;margin-left:.5in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;line-height:115%;}
 #yiv5942686016 

Neil, 


Best of luck to you and Glenn.  The Queen’s Cup can be a very fun race with 
good conditions.  I have a lot of friends from this side of the lake that do it 
every year. 


Jim Reinardy 

C&C 30-2 “Firewater” 

Milwaukee, WI 


Sent from Windows Mail 




From: Edd Schillay via CnC-List
Sent: ‎Wednesday‎, ‎June‎ ‎17‎, ‎2015 ‎1‎:‎53‎ ‎PM
To: Edd Schillay via CnC-List
Cc: schiller 


Our own Glenn Gambel will be sailing his C&C 36 in the Queens Cup (Milwaukee to 
South Haven, Mi) next week.  I am going to crew for him (Not much rail meat 
since I lost 75 lbs, but I can still grind a winch).  We leave White Lake, Mi 
Tuesday night for an overnight across the lake and then race back to South 
Haven leaving Friday night.



___ Email address: 
CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing 
-- go to the bottom of page at: 
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 




___ Email address: 
CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing 
-- go to the bottom of page at: 
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 


___ Email address: 
CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing 
-- go to the bottom of page at: 
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Maxprop

2015-07-13 Thread William Walker via CnC-List

I have two blade max prop on my 36 and love it.  Reverse is as good as forward. 
 Was on boat when I purchased or price may have scared me off, but glad to have 
it.   No issues.   
Bill Walker



Sent from AOL Mobile ___ Email 
address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including 
unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: 
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List intimidating Music

2015-07-13 Thread William Walker via CnC-List

How about music to play loud a start of race to intimidate opponents and those 
on starboard tack?



Sent from AOL Mobile Mail

On Monday, July 13, 2015 Jerome Tauber via CnC-List  
wrote:

The sound of the sea is enough for me.  Jerry. J&J. C&C 27 V 

Sent from my iPhone 


On Jul 13, 2015, at 3:17 PM, Knowles Rich via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
wrote: 

Very tasteful…. Geesh! 


Rich Knowles 

Nanaimo, BC 
INDIGO LF38 
Boatless! 





On Jul 13, 2015, at 11:23, Edd Schillay via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
wrote: 


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=avaSdC0QOUM 




All the best, 


Edd 



Edd M. Schillay 

Starship Enterprise 

C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B 

City Island, NY  

Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 



 










On Jul 13, 2015, at 2:06 PM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List < 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: 


Toots & the Maytals.  


There's no accounting for taste or mood. As a general rule I listen to 
everything. In practice I primarily listen to old 60s reggae, ska, and rock n 
roll (old and new). I have no more time or energy for 'easy listening' or 
anything depressing (classical != easy listening). Happy music only please. Bob 
Marley gets a lot of playtime both on and off the boat. Legend is the worst Bob 
Marley album. 


There is so much good music out there how can you settle on any one thing? 


Steve 

Suhana, C&C 32 

Toronto 







___ 

Email address: 
CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at: 
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 




Rich Knowles 

Nanaimo, BC 
INDIGO LF38 
Boatless! 





___ 

Email address: 
CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at: 
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 

___ Email address: 
CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing 
-- go to the bottom of page at: 
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Painting a Edson Pedestal

2015-07-22 Thread William Walker via CnC-List

Three years ago I painted my black pedestal with rustoleum semi gloss black.  
Still looks great.  Taped everything off, used lots of plastic dry cleaner bags 
to protect fiberglass, wind less morning and multiple thin coats.  
Bill Walker
CnC 36



Sent from AOL Mobile
 
 
 

___ 

Email address: 
CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at: 
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 


___ Email address: 
CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing 
-- go to the bottom of page at: 
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List 3GM30F Oil Pressure warning

2015-08-10 Thread William Walker via CnC-List

We're you motor sailing?  If heeled, as when motor sailing, I have experience 
oil pressure alarm.  I assumed the oil pick up was affected by heel of boat.  
Oil level was mid level on stick when at rest.  A thought.
Bill Walker
CnC 36




Sent from AOL Mobile Mail

On Monday, August 10, 2015 Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List  
wrote:

Oil changed in May. Used 15W 40

Oil level checked July 22

300 mile delivery to Cape Breton (Dundee then Baddeck) July 23 – Aug 2

 

Yesterday after running engine at 2800 RPM for approx. 5.5 hrs a “clicking 
sound” was heard in cockpit.  Thought at first was from Ram mic  but was still 
there once disconnected.  Determined was coming from alarm speaker on Yanmar 
panel.  Tapped panel and then Oil pressure light illuminated and alarm sounded. 
 Shut down engine and sailed to dock (without crashing)

 

At dock started engine and at idle no alarm or light.  Revved up to 3000 RPM 
and the light started flickering and a sputtering sound from the speaker (the 
clicking sound we heard earlier) which was followed by full illumination of Oil 
pressure light and full alarm siren.  Stoped engine and waited.

 

A few minutes later retarted engine and had no alarm at idle, followed by 
sputtering and then full alarm at high rpms. Reduced RPMs to idle and alarm 
stopped and light turned off.

 

Any thoughts?  

 

Boat is currently 3.5 hrs away by car so any parts will have to be taken with 
me in advance

___ Email address: 
CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing 
-- go to the bottom of page at: 
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Rust stains and welding

2015-08-17 Thread William Walker via CnC-List

FSR, fiberglass stain remover.  Takes out trusts stain.  Use on my Florida, 
sorry to say, power boat.
Bill Walker
CnC 36
Pentwater, Mi
On the inland sea.   



Sent from AOL Mobile Mail

On Monday, August 17, 2015 Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List  
wrote:
Last year I had noticed a small crack in my rear pulpit tubing. This spring 
before launch I hired a mobile welder to come out to the boat repair the area - 
he had a tough time with the wind swirling and had to repeatedly grind down the 
dirty weld to do it over. The final repair was adequate (pretty rough - but 
sealed the crack and seemed solid). Unfortunately a few weeks later I 
discovered a million little rust stains in the gel coat. We tried to scrub them 
out with Comet - but mostly just brightened up the gel coat. CLR didn't seem to 
do much - maybe a longer soak? Any suggestions on cleaning? I'm wondering about 
doing a bit of a white wash with stain to see if that will clean them. Now the 
area he repaired is showing some signs of rust - obviously he welded with steel 
and that is rusting. I had another weld that gave way (a lower bracket on the 
rear pulpit) - and I'd rather avoid repeating the same issue. Not sure how 
close to fiberglass they can safely weld - removing the whole rear pulpit 
wouldn't be a fun process, but likely smart to get it done properly. Any 
specific questions I should be asking of a stainless welder? Recommendations in 
Halifax area? I'm also wanting to build a small arch for a solar panel - maybe 
integrated right into the rear pulpit Mark CS 30 - Prosecco 
___ Email address: 
CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing 
-- go to the bottom of page at: 
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Adjustable Genoa Cars

2015-08-23 Thread William Walker via CnC-List

I have garhauer.  I like their products.  
Bill Walker



Sent from AOL Mobile Mail

On Saturday, August 22, 2015 Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List  
wrote:
Any thoughts on adjustable cars. Like, are they all that? Also, which 
ones...Garhauer vs. Schaefer, for example. thx Tom B SV Alera Typoed from my 
iPhone ___ Email address: 
CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing 
-- go to the bottom of page at: 
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List C&C 26 Sail Plan Thoughts!

2015-08-25 Thread William Walker via CnC-List

Sam,
   Don't let this keep you from posting.  
Bill Walker
CnC 36




Sent from AOL Mobile Mail

On Tuesday, August 25, 2015 Sam Salter via CnC-List  
wrote:

‎A few things : 

My genoa is an almost new laminate sail; The main is only 5 short seasons old; 
I've got a folding propeller ; my bottom is smooth like a babies - I take it 
out every winter!‎; I’m measuring speed with a Speed Puck (GPS) 


The 8kn readings were brief and fleeting (not more than the 10secs to register 
in the instrument. The 7kn readings did register though, but they were not 
sustained - like the 6+kn readings were. During this whole time I was beating, 
which is why I pondered on the possibility of sustaining 7 or 8 on a beam 
reach. 


I fairly regularly exceed theoretical hull speed - If you're not, you're not 
trying ! The 26 is not known to be a fast boat. I've done a lot to get her 
faster. There are a lot of faster C&C's on the water which is why the 26's 
aren't raced. 

And yes the 27 is faster! 


Sorry I pissed so many people off - I'll keep quiet in future! 


sam :-) 

From: dwight veinot via CnC-List 

Sent: Tuesday, August 25, 2015 2:44 PM 

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 

Reply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 

Cc: dwight veinot 

Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 26 Sail Plan Thoughts! 


sorry Russ, I thought he said a beam reach must have missed the part about 
puffs, still that's very fast for a 26 but if he can do it course be damned as 
you say, then good for him 


Dwight Veinot 

C&C 35 MKII, Alianna 

Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS 

d.ve...@bellaliant.net 



On Tue, Aug 25, 2015 at 2:52 PM, Russ & Melody via CnC-List 
 wrote: 

Hi Dwight, 

Please reread Sam's message before getting out the pitchforks. He said 7 or 8, 
in the puffs. I would not characterize puffs as "regular"... 

On a prairie lake I think his experience is quite achievable in hot summer 
conditions when all you want to do is sail fast, course be damned. 

 
 Cheers, Russ 
 Sweet mk-1 



At 10:05 AM 25/08/2015, you wrote:

what do you mean by 7kn to 8kn regularly? 

If you mean 7 knots or 8 knots through the water or over the ground with a C&C 
26 I would say you should be a race winner every time on corrected time; that 
is really fast for a C&C 26 even on a beam reach and I got a feeling you would 
probably leave my 35 MKII struggling to stay close behind...before everyone 
runs out to get a C&C 26 are you sure about those numbers; I have only ever 
seen a couple of C&C 26's around here...I don't remember them being quite that 
slippery, in fact my C&C 27 MKIII always seemed to be much faster on all points 
of sail

Dwight Veinot
C&C 35 MKII, Alianna
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
d.ve...@bellaliant.net


On Mon, Aug 24, 2015 at 11:34 PM, Sam Salter via CnC-List 
 wrote:

I know thereâ€™s a few 26 owners on here so thought Iâ€™d share my thoughts on 
optimizing my sail plan. 

Jump in anyone, Iâ€™m open to any thoughts! 

Â 

Was out sailing today, only boat on the lake – I love that! So I thought weâ€™d 
play around with the saill plan. 

Wind was 8kn -12kn. (Estimate – I usually think if I ssee the occasional 
whitecap itâ€™s around 10kn) 

Â 

I have a 135% laminate genoa from Evolution Sails in Toronto (2 seasons). A 
Dacron main with 2 full and 2 partial battens from Leiche & McBride in 
Vancouver (5 seasons).

Â 

I have a flexofold prop; 4-1 outhaul; Garhauer genoa cars; Harken traveller; 
Cunningham; Garhauer ridged vang; (no backstay adjuster)

Â 

The C&C 26 is a tender boat and we were doing about 5.5kn to 6kn beating to 
windward at 20deg – 25deg heel. Flattening with the outhaul reduced heel a bit. 
(speed measured with a Speed Puck)

Furled the genoa to about 110%. Just brought the leech forward of the spreaders 
so no interference.

Boat stood up to 13deg to 16deg. Speed was between 5.8kn – 6.4kn. Went up to 
7kn or 8kn in the puffs (theoretical hulll speed is 6.25kn) No bubble in the 
luff of the main. 

Obviously, the furled genoa wasnâ€™t setting great and the starboard tack was 
better than port tack. On a beam reach I think sheâ€™d do 7kn or 8kn regularly. 

Â 

So hereâ€™s my thoughts: 

Iâ€™m thinking of getting the genoa recut to a 110% or if thatâ€™s not 
practical (...and I suspect it isnâ€™t) order a new 110%. 

Eventually a new laminate main will be needed too!

Iâ€™m well pleased with 6+kns at 10kn of wind and 16deg angle of heel. Very 
little weather helm 

Iâ€™ve not tried it yet with the genoa at 110% in light wind. In heavy air the 
main can still be reefed (...as could the 110%). 

Â 

OK guys, am I missing something?

(Iâ€™m not looking for advice on where to buy used sails!) 

Â 

sam :-) 

C&C 26Â  Liquorice 

Ghost LakeÂ  Alberta 

Â 

___ 

Email address: 
CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at: 
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Survey Question

2015-08-26 Thread William Walker via CnC-List

Everything subject to negotiation.  Seller doesn't want to haul for every 
"looker".  I have proposed and had accepted a provision that I pay haul and 
clean if I don't buy the boat, split it if I do. 

Bill Walker



Sent from AOL Mobile Mail

On Wednesday, August 26, 2015 Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
 wrote:

HI Kurt, 

  

I think it becoming obvious to me that my ability to ask a concise question is, 
well...questionable!  LOL 

  

Anyway,  It had more to do with the responsibily of who should pay for the 
cleaning of sais fouled bottom, not so much whether ot not is should be done.  
Of course you cannot inspect a fouled bottom. 

  

My point is more about why would a seller not want the boat in as good a 
working order as possible.  This would, in fact, make the survey go faster and 
smoother and give everyone involved a better more positive experience.  After 
all, there is a level of subjectivity involved and that is a matter of 
perspective, observation and ease of doing the task at hand.  So, my point 
being, and again this is my limited experience with my own boat shopping for 2 
different boats, why do sellers not spend just a little extra, effort, maybe 
even a little money so that their boats survey as best they can? 

  

I've found now that it is common for the potential buyer to not only go out of 
pocket, on speculation, for not only the survey and haul-out, but also, the 
power-washing of the bottom.  Initially I was thinking that, the haul-out would 
be a couple hundred and then the wash would be another $150 or so...  It not so 
much the dollar value but the principle I question.  

  

It kind of goes along with the theory that "the seller pays the broker fees..." 
 While that may be true, that value is figured into the price, and the buyer is 
the one with the money that ultimately pays those fees.  No buyer, no fees 
paid...  It's ridiculous to separate any fee in a sale from the source of the 
funds that pay the fee!  LOL 

  

Oh Geeze this may now open another can of worms... 

  

Thanks again though for the insights and responses to what is now view by me as 
"a stupid question..."  Not so much for my ignorance in needing to ask it but, 
in my inability to articulate it. 

  

Danny 

-- Original Message -- 

From: Kurt Heckert  
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com, cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: djhaug...@juno.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List  Survey Question 
Date: Wed, 26 Aug 2015 03:07:06 -0700 

It is common, the bottom needs cleaning on haul out or you are trying to exam a 
fouled bottom. 


From: Danny Haughey via CnC-List ; 
To: ; 
Cc: Danny Haughey ; 
Subject: Stus-List Survey Question 
Sent: Wed, Aug 26, 2015 1:36:17 AM 


Hi Guys, 

  

Okay so I've got a survey with haulout scheduled for this coming Saturday.  
during my conversation with the surveryor, he brought to light an interesting 
point.  I had asked if he would be doing the sea trial before or after haul out 
and he said that it would be better to do it after because if the bottom were 
fouled, we wouldn't bet a good sea trial.  He said if haul first and it is then 
we could get it cleaned, and I asked "so, we could clean it?"  he said well you 
should talk to the broker.  So I did and he said it common practice for the 
boat to be powerwashed on a haul out.  I asked who would pay for that?  He said 
I would be responsible for that.  I said so, if this thing fails inspection, 
I'll paying for the owners powerwashing?  He said that it was common... 

  

I'm thinking what $4 a foot to wash it, then haul it...  I knew I had to pay 
for a haulout, but ...  is that really common to be on the hook for a power 
washing?  I mean it is what it is I've just never seen this conversation come 
up before... 

  

Danny 

___ Email address: 
CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing 
-- go to the bottom of page at: 
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Autopilot steering

2015-08-26 Thread William Walker via CnC-List

My CnC 36 has prop shaft offset to port and therefore under power boat will 
steer to port unless rudder counteracts with starboard angle.  When motoring my 
wheel is proabably two inches off dead center to starboard to steer straight 
course. The more rpms = more thrust = more port turn = more counteracting force 
required.   Having said that, no issue with autohelm 4000+ handling this.   
Bill Walker



Sent from AOL Mobile Mail

On Wednesday, August 26, 2015 David Knecht via CnC-List  
wrote:

I was on a long cruise last weekend and we ended up motoring for many hours.   
installed a new Raymarine EV1/ST4000+ wheel pilot last winter and this was the 
first extended use.  I found that it was frequently cutting out while motoring 
(not sailing).  The unit would simply freeze up and stop steering while the 
boat drifted slowly off course.  No error on the P70 controller screen until I 
got an off course warning.  I also noticed the wheel pilot getting warm/hot 
when this was happening which may be why it cut out. 

I also notice that while motoring, there is significant pull on the wheel that 
has to be fought to keep the boat going straight.  Is that normal?  I am 
guessing that the wheel pilot is overheating due to the power needed to 
continuously fight that pull?  Thanks- Dave 


Aries 

1990 C&C 34+ 

New London, CT 


 


___ Email address: 
CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing 
-- go to the bottom of page at: 
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Also looking at a C&C 36 - engine at an angle?

2015-09-19 Thread William Walker via CnC-List

Bruce,
  Have owned my 36 for five years.  Love it.  Yes, the engine is mounted at 
slight angle.  As earlier respnse said, allows removal of shaft without 
dropping rudder.  Once you get used to it, it is a great advantage docking, as 
you can pull/push the stern a little with short bursts of power.  Not a 
problem.  When motoring, does require a slight port steer to keep going 
striaght, maybe an inch or two off dead center.  
  I love my boat.
Bill Walker
1981 CnC 36
Evening Star
Pentwater, Mi.



-Original Message-
From: Bruce via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: biz 
Sent: Sat, Sep 19, 2015 2:22 pm
Subject: Stus-List Also looking at a C&C 36 - engine at an angle?




Yeah, so... in my quest to find my next boat,
looking at a variety of
32-36' C&Cs.
 
I looked at a C&C-36 yesterday, the
first 36 I've inspected.  Was
surprised to note that, both from the
companionway access and the
lazarette access, it looked like the engine was
mounted offset - it
appeared to be angled maybe 3-4 degrees off centerline -
the forward end
on centerline, the aft end of it offset to port.
 
I wasn't
smart enough to look at the shaft (I only had a half hour on
the boat, broker
had another appoinment), but it got me to wondering -
is the shaft offset on
the 36 (to counteract prop-walking or something)?
 Or does this boat have a
major problem?


Thx
Bruce

___

Email
address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including
unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com


 
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Rolly Tasker Sails now sun cover

2016-03-28 Thread William Walker via CnC-List

Have you been in a marina with one of the sleeves on the boat next door in 20 
knows of wind?  I have.  Think flag.  
Bill Walker 
CnC  36

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail

On Monday, March 28, 2016 Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Just to make it a little more interesting.. 

With my (new to me) racing headsails This what I'm going with:    
http://www.atninc.com/atn-genoa-sleeve-sailing-equipment.shtml

With the Genoa Sleeve way you have complete protection from sun / rain / pollen 
/ whatever for no matter what sail happens to to be on the furler. ATN's sleeve 
is a bit pricey but it seems to be the way to go.  

Added weight to the sail(s) = 0

it's a little more hassle to hoist but this way I feel the sails are better 
protected and I don't have to do anything to the sails. 

-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier,  GA

John ? that was my thinking, too; and the sail is only on the fuller for about 
five months a year up here.

Decisions, decisions?

? Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Mar 27, 2016, at 10:54 AM, John Pennie via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Pretty much mirrors everything I?ve heard on the subject.  With that said, I 
> went with Dacron.  It is noticeable in light air. 
> 
> John
> 
>> On Mar 27, 2016, at 11:45 AM, Rick Brass via CnC-List > > wrote:
>> 
>> I had a preliminary conversation with my local sailmaker about a new suit of 
>> sails for Imzadi. He was also very down on using a Dacron sun cover for the 
>> headsail. His opinion was that they are typically good for 5-6 years or 
>> less, and better suited to use on sails used for club racing and not left 
>> for long term on the furler. He said Sunberlla is heavier, stiffer, and more 
>> expensive (which increases initial cost of the sail and slightly decreases 
>> performance), but very much more durable (and a better value in the long run 
>> if you are a cruiser). 
>>  
>> Rick Brass
>> Washington, N

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Gasket?

2016-03-31 Thread William Walker via CnC-List

An 1/8th to 1/4?   Go sailing for goodness sake.  If it is too tight it will 
squeak.  Ask me how I know.
Bill Walker 
CnC  36
Pentwater, Mi.  

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail

On Thursday, March 31, 2016 Robert Boyer via CnC-List  
wrote:

You could bite the bullet and cut new plywood that fits correctly.  Call me 
crazy but that's what I would do rather than live with a job that wasn't quite 
done right.


Bob

Sent from my iPhone, Bob Boyer


On Mar 31, 2016, at 1:54 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List  
wrote:

@font-face  {font-family:"Cambria Math";panose-1:2 4 5 3 5 4 6 3 2 4;} 
@font-face   {font-family:Calibri;   panose-1:2 15 5 2 2 2 4 3 2 4;} 
@font-face  {font-family:Tahoma;panose-1:2 11 6 4 3 5 4 4 2 4;} 
p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal{margin:0in;
margin-bottom:.0001pt;  font-size:12.0pt;   font-family:"Times New 
Roman",serif;} a:link, span.MsoHyperlink {mso-style-priority:99;
 color:blue; text-decoration:underline;} a:visited, 
span.MsoHyperlinkFollowed{mso-style-priority:99; color:purple;  
 text-decoration:underline;} p.MsoAcetate, li.MsoAcetate, div.MsoAcetate
 {mso-style-priority:99; mso-style-link:"Balloon Text Char"; 
margin:0in; margin-bottom:.0001pt;  font-size:8.0pt;
font-family:"Tahoma",sans-serif;} span.BalloonTextChar  
{mso-style-name:"Balloon Text Char";mso-style-priority:99;  
mso-style-link:"Balloon Text";  font-family:"Tahoma",sans-serif;} 
span.EmailStyle19 {mso-style-type:personal;   
font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;   color:#1F497D;} span.EmailStyle20   
{mso-style-type:personal;   font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;   
color:#1F497D;} span.EmailStyle21   {mso-style-type:personal-reply; 
font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;   color:#1F497D;} .MsoChpDefault  
{mso-style-type:export-only;font-size:10.0pt;} @page WordSection1   
{size:8.5in 11.0in; margin:1.0in 1.0in 1.0in 1.0in;} div.WordSection1   
{page:WordSection1;} 

Are you really sure you want to seal around the new sole? How will the water 
get into the bilge when someone comes below in wet foulies, or drops the 
teapot, or inadvertently leaves the water inlet to the head unclosed when out 
sailing?

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Hoyt, Mike 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, March 31, 2016 1:05 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Hoyt, Mike 
Subject: Stus-List Gasket?

 

Looking for ideas.

 

The cabin sole on our boat sits in a recessed molded liner.  To fit the new 
sole the old one was used as template and several fittings took place.  Despite 
all this there is a gap between the molded edge of the hull liner and the edge 
of the new sole that varies from 1/8 to ¼ inch.  What sort of gasket material 
have people used to make this look a bit nicer?

 

Mike

Persistence

Launching next week in Halifax

 

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Free Stuff...

2016-04-03 Thread William Walker via CnC-List

David,
 I sent text with my contact info.  Would love the ice cube trays and winch 
covers.  

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail

On Sunday, April 3, 2016 David via CnC-List  wrote:

Cleaning out the basement and thought I would offer the following odd items up 
to anyone in need

(1) Signet instrument cover (square)(2) ST60 Instrument covers(2) 9' long 
handrail covers.  Dark blue and in decent shape.  (1) 26" long handrail 
cover(3) upright ice trays(5) 5" dark blue winch covers (all in good shape)(1) 
4" dark blue winch cover(2) 8" dark blue winch covers
Pay shipping etc and its yours...

David F. Risch
1981 40-2
(401) 419-4650 (cell)


Virus-free. www.avast.com  

 

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Gwind

2016-04-04 Thread William Walker via CnC-List

No problems through the first season with it.  I do think it is more sensitive 
at the lower wind speeds than the older  instruments. 
Bill Walker
CnC  36
Pentwater, Mi

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail

On Monday, April 4, 2016 Tom Alessi via CnC-List  wrote:

Just wanted to know how you like the unit. Also was wondering how the wireless 
unit performs.



Tom 

C&C 36

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List CnC Rendezvous

2016-04-05 Thread William Walker via CnC-List

For Florida or lake Michigan.  I think I know which. 
Bill Walker
On Apr 5, 2016 1:00 PM, detroito91 via CnC-List  wrote:

I'm inJimSEA YA!38 LFSent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE smartphone Original message From: Stu via CnC-List  Date: 04/05/2016  12:41 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Stu  Subject: Re: Stus-List CnC Rendezvous 


Or you could have one in Florida between December and April and we would be 
sure to attend.
 
Stu 
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Rudder collar "donut" removal

2016-04-20 Thread William Walker via CnC-List

Take a small drill bit or ask that fits easily in the hole and " measure" how 
deep the set screw holes are and you should be able to tell.  If so and you 
can't get them out, drill them out and re tap set screws holes if needed with 
slightly larger.  Good luck.  
Bill Walker

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail

On Wednesday, April 20, 2016 Rick Brass via CnC-List  
wrote:

That was my question, too.

 

Mine came off with just the use of a large rubber strap wrench.

 

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
wwadjo...@aol.com via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, April 20, 2016 7:32 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: wwadjo...@aol.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rudder collar "donut" removal

 

Is it possible that a PO doubled up the set screws?  

Bill Walker

CnC 36

 

Sent from my LG G Pad F™ 8.0, an AT&T 4G LTE tablet

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Rudder collar "donut" removal

2016-04-21 Thread William Walker via CnC-List

Freak in spell checker. Delrin...
On Apr 21, 2016 6:21 PM, "wwadjo...@aol.com via CnC-List" wrote:

Eric, That is a Delton or some other material spacer which acts as bushing to protect top of rudder shaft tube. No problem but looks like you might want to replace. They wear. Hope to see you in Pentwater this summer. Bill WalkerSent from my LG G Pad F™ 8.0, an AT&T 4G LTE tablet

-- Original message--From: Eric Frank via CnC-List Date: Thu, Apr 21, 2016 6:13 PMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.com;Cc: Eric Frank;Subject:Re: Stus-List Rudder collar "donut" removalAfter looking at the rudder post coming up through the cockpit floor today, I think I confused the donut with what is broken on Cat’s Paw. It appears thatwhat is broken is below the donut that is being discussed. It’s right down on the cockpit floor. What is it and what should I do about it? Looks like the infamous donut would have to be removed to replace it. Picture is athttps://www.dropbox.com/s/y4gfowalb1qyd8j/RudderPostCollar.JPG?dl=0Eric FrankCat's PawC&C 35 Mk IIMattapoisett, MA> I?ve been watching this saga with some interest. Last spring I noticed> that the ?donut? on my 35 MkII was cracked in several places, but was told> on this list that the rudder would not fall off so it wasn?t critical to> replace it right away. The donut on Cat?s Paw will be easy to remove> because it is broken in several places. Can I get a replacement for it and> then just screw it on? How are others dealing with this?___This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Dodger windshield cleaner/protector

2016-04-30 Thread William Walker via CnC-List

McGuire makes a two part cleaner and Polish I have used for years with success. 
 Developed I think for motorcycle windshields.  Not familiar with the other 
products you mention. 
Bill Walker 
CnC 36
Evening Star
Pentwater, Mi 

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail

On Saturday, April 30, 2016 Dennis C. via CnC-List  
wrote:

Touche' got a new windshield last week.  It's a simple quick on/quick off thing 
for deliveries and transits.  It's not the expensive Isinglass stuff but the 
less expensive clear vinyl or whatever.  

I have no experience with cleaning/protecting a windshield.  Internet research 
shows plastic cleaner/protectors by Plexus and Camco Armada 210.

Thoughts/recommendations from the list?

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Dry ice in ice box? 1988 C&C MK II 30"

2016-05-04 Thread William Walker via CnC-List

the dry ice industry Web site says it should not be used in boats for reason 
already stated as sublimated replaces oxygenated air.  
Bill Walker 
CnC 36
Pentwater  Mi 

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail

On Wednesday, May 4, 2016 David via CnC-List  wrote:

We have used it offshore to augment 12v refrig to keep battery consumption 
down.   Never had a problem.   

David F. Risch
1981 40-2
(401) 419-4650 (cell)


Date: Wed, 4 May 2016 14:37:57 -0400
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Dry ice in ice box? 1988 C&C MK II 30"
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
CC: primeinter...@gmail.com

Very bad idea inside a boat. As it sublimates it will replace the oxygen in the 
lowest parts of the boat ... i.e. the living area.

Ed 

QCYC Toronto

On May 4, 2016 2:29 PM, "Lorne Serpa via CnC-List"  
wrote:

Will the ice box handle dry ice? I know that for everyday cooler that you take 
to the beach they're not designed for the extra low temperature of dry ice.


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!


___ This list is supported by the 
generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay 
for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


Virus-free. www.avast.com  

 

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List electronics

2016-05-05 Thread William Walker via CnC-List

Yeh, spell checker strikes again.
Bill Walker
On May 5, 2016 7:46 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List  wrote:Thanks, Bill!  BTW, I think your spell-checker may have had some fun with your post; to be clear, I did NOT sell Bill a chef radio, nor do I know what one is.   :^)
Fred Street -- MinneapolisS/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On May 5, 2016, at 6:33 PM, wwadjourn@aol.com via CnC-List  wrote:Just received my new standard horizon a is chef radio and ram Mic from Fred Street.   Don't know why any of us would buy through anyone else.  Bill WalkerCnC 36pentwater, mi___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List reefing lines

2016-05-10 Thread William Walker via CnC-List

What size reefing line are others using on 36 foot + or - boats
Bill Walker
Cnc 36
Evening Star 
Pentwater, Mi
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Older C&C Bow Navigational lights

2016-05-16 Thread William Walker via CnC-List

do you have the tear drop lighrs?  I have some I removed I would give you.  

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail

On Monday, May 16, 2016 Andrew Deveau via CnC-List  
wrote:

Would anyone have any options for bow navigational lights on an older C&C
25.

I had one of the lights burn-out on the bow. I'n my attempt to remove the
light I was successful in remove one of three screws and managed to break
the other two light.

Would anyone have any thoughts or ideas on, and or suggestions on where I
could go next? (Ie drill three new holes?, and or new lights).

Thank you

C&C 25
Dry Red
Nova Scotia.




___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List LMPHRF Certificates

2016-05-20 Thread William Walker via CnC-List

Glenn, 
  Got mine in early May.  Sent in to lmphrf in January.  They are historically slow.   Where on the lake are you?
Bill Walker
CNC 36
Pentwater, Mi
On May 20, 2016 3:15 PM, Glenn via CnC-List  wrote:



LMPHRF Listers,
 
Have you received your LMPHRF Certificate for 2016 yet?  I applied during early February and still have not received my certificate.  Would appreciate any comments.  E-mailed LMPHRF, but have received no response yet.
 
Glenn Gambel
C&C 36
Wind N Spirits___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List hypalon adhesive

2016-05-25 Thread William Walker via CnC-List

looking at adhesive to repair Achilles hypalon dinghy, hate to pay boat prices. 
 advice sought. generic polychlorprolene adhesive?
Bill Walker
Evening Star
CnC  36
Pentwater, Mi.

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail

On Wednesday, May 25, 2016 Dreuge via CnC-List  wrote:

I agree, I use a good mechanical connection (ancor like crimps) everywhere 
except on the battery lugs(I’m talking large gauge wire).  




ABYC actually has an exception to the  “shall not solder rule”



>From ABYC E-11








11.14.5.7 Solder shall not be the sole means of mechanical connection in any 
circuit. If soldered, the connection shall be so located or supported as to 
minimize flexing of the conductor where the solder changes the flexible 
conductor into a solid conductor. 

EXCEPTION: Battery lugs with a solder contact length of not less than 1.5 times 
the diameter of the conductor. 











-
Paul E.

1981 C&C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL


http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/


On May 25, 2016, at 2:11 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:


Date: Wed, 25 May 2016 11:31:34 -0500
From: Frederick G Street 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Battery Posts
Message-ID: <233f060c-fbb9-44ae-a6a2-dcab1053e...@postaudio.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

ABYC strictly prohibits solder as the sole means of connecting terminal to 
wire; you absolutely need to use a good mechanical connection.  Solder stiffens 
the wire at the joint, making it susceptible to failure due to vibration; and a 
wire under load can heat to the point that the solder will soften, which will 
also cause failure.

A properly-made crimp is the best way to make a safe connection.

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List SPREADER BOOTS

2016-06-01 Thread William Walker via CnC-List

I don't know what brand you are considering.  Last year I had Torreson Marine in Muskegon install new boots.  They used Taylor Made, part numbers Tay 960027 and Tay 960026, large and medium.  Medium for uppers, large for mowers.  About 45 per pair.   
Bill walker
Cnc 36
Pentwater, Mi
On Jun 1, 2016 11:13 AM, Tom Alessi via CnC-List  wrote:






Are you going with "small" for the uppers and 
lowers?
 
Tom 
1980 C&C 36
tagraphics@optonline.net
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Stus-List (no subject)

2016-06-23 Thread William Walker via CnC-List



Sent from AOL Mobile Mail___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Transmission/prop woes

2016-06-30 Thread William Walker via CnC-List

actually there were.  I can't figure out how they got free, but over time I 
suspect back and forth, forward reverse, wore down the bolts in the detentes.  
I have a good picture I could send. 
Bill Walker 

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail

On Thursday, June 30, 2016 Dennis C. via CnC-List  wrote:

Guessing there weren't any detents in the shaft for the set screws?  Good idea 
to drill some if not.

Dennis C.


On Thu, Jun 30, 2016 at 12:20 PM, wwadjo...@aol.com  
wrote:

Thanks all for replies.  On investigation this morning it seems the shaft 
pulled out of the connector to transmission.  The two "keeper" bolts were still 
in place and wired so as to not vibrate loose.  The key was in the bilge, 
mangled, under the connection of shaft and tranny.  The zinc on shaft above the 
prop strut did its job and kept the shaft from exiting the boat.  

Boat in haul out well so we can make repair today.  

A reminder that the zinc is important even in fresh water 😄

Bill Walker

CnC 36

Evening Star

Pentwater, Mi


Sent from my LG G Pad F™ 8.0, an AT&T 4G LTE tablet


-- Original message--

From: Frederick G Street via CnC-List 

Date: Thu, Jun 30, 2016 9:02 AM

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com;

Cc: Frederick G Street;

Subject:Re: Stus-List Transmission/prop woes


And to amplify a bit on Chuck’s answer, since I’ve been down this road before…  
 :^)


If you end up switching your engine controls to either the 816 or 870 series, 
depending on the age and size of your pedestal, you MAY need to replace the 
entire pedestal riser as well.  On my 1979 Landfall 38, I had the older (300 
series?) pedestal with the narrower riser tube; and trying to fit engine 
control cables down inside that skinny tube was a very unpleasant task.  I 
finally bit the bullet and got a completely new pedestal; with the wider riser 
tube, it was a much better solution, and the new pedestal was a better fit for 
my wheel pilot, as well.


— Fred


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI


On Jun 30, 2016, at 7:50 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
 wrote:


Bill,

To echo Edd’s suggestion, if your engine transmission engages by manually 
moving the lever on the gearbox but not using the shift control at the 
pedestal, I too believe the problem to be cable or engine control related.  
Depending on which control you have, there are several items to check:

1.  The shift cable attaches to the lever at the helm via a long brass 
clevis that looks like a tuning fork.  This is located beneath your compass 
which will need to come off to check.    It is roughly 4.5” long.  The end of 
your 33 series cable threads into the end of the clevis which is connected to 
the shift lever via a clevis pin and cotter.  As cables get old and hard to 
move, I’ve seen many times where the threaded end of the cable breaks off in 
the clevis, rendering the shift mechanism unusable.  The solution is a 
replacement cable (not a bad idea on a 30+ year old boat) as well as a new 
clevis if the threaded end can’t be extracted.

2.  The cable clamp has broken.  When this happens, you can move your 
throttle and shift levers up and down, but because the housing of the cable is 
no longer being held in place, the inside rod in the cable won’t move 
independently of the cable housing, which means the cable won’t do anything at 
the transmission end.    Depending on the model of shifter you have, this can 
be easy or a bear to replace.  If you have a model 870 or 816 control (shift 
and throttle are in a cylindrical housing directly below the compass), there 
will be a screw or hex nut located about 5-6” below the wheel shaft on the aft 
side of the pedestal.  Inside the pedestal at that point is a cable clamp, 
either made of aluminum or plastic depending on the age of the boat.  The 
plastic ones can break over time, especially if the cable is as old as the boat 
and is stiff to operate.  Instructions on replacing the cable clamp (along with 
the cables) can be found 
here:http://www.edsonmarine.com/support/PDFs/installation/EB396EngineControlInstr.PDF

The process is not intuitive so it is worth reading the instructions carefully 
before tearing into the project.

 

If the engine control levers are set on port and starboard just aft of the 
pedestal between the pedestal column and the wheel and the control cables run 
inside their own 1” stainless steel tubes that sit behind the pedestal base, 
you have either a 727 or 747 control.    If this is your set up there are going 
to be challenges with replacing a cable clamp.  I would typically recommend 
calling Edson and seeing if they still have any cable holders for a model 727 
engine control for a series 33 shift cable and also as them to send you the 
engineering bulletin that shows the breakdown of the controller (which was 
discontinued in the late 1980’s).   They will likely recommend selling you 
either the 870 or 816 control (depending whether your cable is pushed or pulled

Re: Stus-List Transmission/prop woes

2016-06-30 Thread William Walker via CnC-List

all repaired.  ends of bolts were worn down, I suspect over years, little by 
little to shape of shaft.  shaft still smooth.  cleaned up the detentes with 
drill, cleaned key way with file and installed new key, Snug fit, and new 
keeper bolts.  all well that ends well.  good for another xx years I hope.  
Bill Walker

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail

On Thursday, June 30, 2016 Dennis C. via CnC-List  wrote:

I believe you but that's a bit scary.  Shaft installed correctly using best 
practice and it still came out.

Dennis C.


On Thu, Jun 30, 2016 at 12:43 PM, William Walker via CnC-List 
 wrote:

actually there were.  I can't figure out how they got free, but over time I 
suspect back and forth, forward reverse, wore down the bolts in the detentes.  
I have a good picture I could send. 
Bill Walker 

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail

On Thursday, June 30, 2016 Dennis C. via CnC-List  wrote:

Guessing there weren't any detents in the shaft for the set screws?  Good idea 
to drill some if not.

Dennis C.


On Thu, Jun 30, 2016 at 12:20 PM, wwadjo...@aol.com  
wrote:

Thanks all for replies.  On investigation this morning it seems the shaft 
pulled out of the connector to transmission.  The two "keeper" bolts were still 
in place and wired so as to not vibrate loose.  The key was in the bilge, 
mangled, under the connection of shaft and tranny.  The zinc on shaft above the 
prop strut did its job and kept the shaft from exiting the boat.  

Boat in haul out well so we can make repair today.  

A reminder that the zinc is important even in fresh water 😄

Bill Walker

CnC 36

Evening Star

Pentwater, Mi


Sent from my LG G Pad F™ 8.0, an AT&T 4G LTE tablet


-- Original message--

From: Frederick G Street via CnC-List 

Date: Thu, Jun 30, 2016 9:02 AM

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com;

Cc: Frederick G Street;

Subject:Re: Stus-List Transmission/prop woes


And to amplify a bit on Chuck’s answer, since I’ve been down this road before…  
 :^)


If you end up switching your engine controls to either the 816 or 870 series, 
depending on the age and size of your pedestal, you MAY need to replace the 
entire pedestal riser as well.  On my 1979 Landfall 38, I had the older (300 
series?) pedestal with the narrower riser tube; and trying to fit engine 
control cables down inside that skinny tube was a very unpleasant task.  I 
finally bit the bullet and got a completely new pedestal; with the wider riser 
tube, it was a much better solution, and the new pedestal was a better fit for 
my wheel pilot, as well.


— Fred


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI


On Jun 30, 2016, at 7:50 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
 wrote:


Bill,

To echo Edd’s suggestion, if your engine transmission engages by manually 
moving the lever on the gearbox but not using the shift control at the 
pedestal, I too believe the problem to be cable or engine control related.  
Depending on which control you have, there are several items to check:

1.  The shift cable attaches to the lever at the helm via a long brass 
clevis that looks like a tuning fork.  This is located beneath your compass 
which will need to come off to check.    It is roughly 4.5” long.  The end of 
your 33 series cable threads into the end of the clevis which is connected to 
the shift lever via a clevis pin and cotter.  As cables get old and hard to 
move, I’ve seen many times where the threaded end of the cable breaks off in 
the clevis, rendering the shift mechanism unusable.  The solution is a 
replacement cable (not a bad idea on a 30+ year old boat) as well as a new 
clevis if the threaded end can’t be extracted.

2.  The cable clamp has broken.  When this happens, you can move your 
throttle and shift levers up and down, but because the housing of the cable is 
no longer being held in place, the inside rod in the cable won’t move 
independently of the cable housing, which means the cable won’t do anything at 
the transmission end.    Depending on the model of shifter you have, this can 
be easy or a bear to replace.  If you have a model 870 or 816 control (shift 
and throttle are in a cylindrical housing directly below the compass), there 
will be a screw or hex nut located about 5-6” below the wheel shaft on the aft 
side of the pedestal.  Inside the pedestal at that point is a cable clamp, 
either made of aluminum or plastic depending on the age of the boat.  The 
plastic ones can break over time, especially if the cable is as old as the boat 
and is stiff to operate.  Instructions on replacing the cable clamp (along with 
the cables) can be found 
here:http://www.edsonmarine.com/support/PDFs/installation/EB396EngineControlInstr.PDF

The process is not intuitive so it is worth reading the instructions carefully 
before tearing into the project.

 

If the engine control levers are set on port and starboard just aft of the 
pedestal between the pedestal column and the wheel and the contr

Re: Stus-List Transmission/prop woes

2016-06-30 Thread William Walker via CnC-List

hmm.  wish had seen this before finished repair. 
Bill Walker

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail

On Thursday, June 30, 2016 Neil Gallagher via CnC-List  
wrote:

Four years ago I put a new Universal M3-20B in our club launch, and new shaft 
as well.  Drilled pretty deep holes in the shaft for the set screws, tightened 
them and wired them in place.  After about two months the shaft slipped out, 
with no apparent damage to the shaft.  I think what happened was the threads on 
the end of the screws compressed in the holes allowing enough play to release 
the shaft.  I then put the set screws in a lathe and cut the bottom of the 
threads off, so it was just a solid tip, and tapered the end.  It's held since 
then.

Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY


On 6/30/2016 2:06 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:

I believe you but that's a bit scary.  Shaft installed correctly using best 
practice and it still came out.

Dennis C.


On Thu, Jun 30, 2016 at 12:43 PM, William Walker via CnC-List 
 wrote:

actually there were.  I can't figure out how they got free, but over time I 
suspect back and forth, forward reverse, wore down the bolts in the detentes.  
I have a good picture I could send. 
Bill Walker 

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail

On Thursday, June 30, 2016 Dennis C. via CnC-List  wrote:

Guessing there weren't any detents in the shaft for the set screws?  Good idea 
to drill some if not.

Dennis C.


On Thu, Jun 30, 2016 at 12:20 PM, wwadjo...@aol.com  
wrote:

Thanks all for replies.  On investigation this morning it seems the shaft 
pulled out of the connector to transmission.  The two "keeper" bolts were still 
in place and wired so as to not vibrate loose.  The key was in the bilge, 
mangled, under the connection of shaft and tranny.  The zinc on shaft above the 
prop strut did its job and kept the shaft from exiting the boat.  

Boat in haul out well so we can make repair today.  

A reminder that the zinc is important even in fresh water ?

Bill Walker

CnC 36

Evening Star

Pentwater, Mi


Sent from my LG G Pad F™ 8.0, an AT&T 4G LTE tablet


-- Original message--

From: Frederick G Street via CnC-List 

Date: Thu, Jun 30, 2016 9:02 AM

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com;

Cc: Frederick G Street;

Subject:Re: Stus-List Transmission/prop woes


And to amplify a bit on Chuck’s answer, since I’ve been down this road before…  
 :^) 


If you end up switching your engine controls to either the 816 or 870 series, 
depending on the age and size of your pedestal, you MAY need to replace the 
entire pedestal riser as well.  On my 1979 Landfall 38, I had the older (300 
series?) pedestal with the narrower riser tube; and trying to fit engine 
control cables down inside that skinny tube was a very unpleasant task.  I 
finally bit the bullet and got a completely new pedestal; with the wider riser 
tube, it was a much better solution, and the new pedestal was a better fit for 
my wheel pilot, as well.


— Fred


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI


On Jun 30, 2016, at 7:50 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
 wrote:


Bill,

To echo Edd’s suggestion, if your engine transmission engages by manually 
moving the lever on the gearbox but not using the shift control at the 
pedestal, I too believe the problem to be cable or engine control related.  
Depending on which control you have, there are several items to check:

1.  The shift cable attaches to the lever at the helm via a long brass 
clevis that looks like a tuning fork.  This is located beneath your compass 
which will need to come off to check.    It is roughly 4.5” long.  The end of 
your 33 series cable threads into the end of the clevis which is connected to 
the shift lever via a clevis pin and cotter.  As cables get old and hard to 
move, I’ve seen many times where the threaded end of the cable breaks off in 
the clevis, rendering the shift mechanism unusable.  The solution is a 
replacement cable (not a bad idea on a 30+ year old boat) as well as a new 
clevis if the threaded end can’t be extracted.

2.  The cable clamp has broken.  When this happens, you can move your 
throttle and shift levers up and down, but because the housing of the cable is 
no longer being held in place, the inside rod in the cable won’t move 
independently of the cable housing, which means the cable won’t do anything at 
the transmission end.    Depending on the model of shifter you have, this can 
be easy or a bear to replace.  If you have a model 870 or 816 control (shift 
and throttle are in a cylindrical housing directly below the compass), there 
will be a screw or hex nut located about 5-6” below the wheel shaft on the aft 
side of the pedestal.  Inside the pedestal at that point is a cable clamp, 
either made of aluminum or plastic depending on the age of the boat.  The 
plastic ones can break over time, especially if the cable is as old as the boat 
and is stiff to operate.  Instructio

Re: Stus-List Transmission/prop woes

2016-06-30 Thread William Walker via CnC-List

That is exactly what happened.  However, my shaft is a tight fit, not slipping easily into coupler, this I am perplexed.   Having said this, I know prior owner and it has been at least 10 years since installed.  I think a periodic removal and inspection of set screws in order.  
Bill Walker
On Jun 30, 2016 6:27 PM, Michael Brown via CnC-List  wrote:The guidance I received is that the shaft needs to be a tight fit inside the coupler.The matched prop shaft and coupler set I got back from the prop company wouldnot slide together by hand, needed light taps from a rubber mallet. The companysaid if there was much play and even a slight bit of misalignment causing vibrationthat overtime it would wear down any high point or possibly the set screw.So it may be that the previously tightened and seizing wired set screw is not backingoff, the end is wearing down until it appears to be loose.Michael BrownWindburnC&C 30-1Date: Thu, 30 Jun 2016 21:17:42 + (UTC)
From: Daniel Sheer 
To: Cnc-list CNC Boat Owners 
Subject: Stus-List Transmission/prop woes
Message-ID:
     <1554588852.4980586.1467321462816.JavaMail.yahoo@mail.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Just had my shaft slip out of the coupling as well. Zincs forward of the strut kept it from coming out of the boat. It was "lazy, hazy, crazy days of summer" getting the shaft back up so I could reattach it to the coupling. An hour and a half of "grunting and swearing and beer" before we were on our way again. Had holes in the shaft for the set screws. All on tight. Still came out. I put stop nuts on the set screws, and, since the key was moving as well, two hose clamps to hold the key in place. Also replaced the lock washers on the coupling bolts. We'll see. I'm checking it before each sail.
Dan SheerPegathy - LF38Rock Creek off the Patapsco
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Replacement Handrails

2016-07-22 Thread William Walker via CnC-List

Randy,
I have purchased from this guy in Florida three times and had great service. Teak was $110, Shipping was less than 30 dollars to cincinnati, Ohio. FEQ teak. I could send pictures of two sets of handrails I built to you offline.
His contact info:
Rex Rothing
305.453.0102
woodshop...@bellsouth.net
Bill Walker
Evening Star
CnC 36
Pentwater, Michigan

On Jul 22, 2016 1:40 PM, RANDY via CnC-List wrote:Moving forward with this project. Thanks Bill Bina for recommending http://www.teakmarinewoodwork.com/hand_rails.htm - I got a quote from them but it was cost-prohibitive ($760 for two rails plus $385 for shipping from Tampa to Denver).I've decided to fabricate my own, as one of my crew is extremely skilled at woodworking and has all the necessary tools. I can get the necessary teak stock for <$200.The problem is getting a long-enough piece of teak. The rails on the boat are 117" long. The longest piece of teak I can get is 115". So I have to decide between shortening the rails by two inches, or using an alternative wood. We'd prefer not to do end-to-end joinery for this application.Shortening the rails by an inch on each end probably isn't that big an issue. It wouldn't appear to require changing the mounting screw locations. The main issue is how noticeable it would be afterward.I could get another oily close-grained hardwood species in a long-enough length, e.g. Ipe, Cumaru, or Paduak. And it would be significantly less expensive than teak.So my question to you listers is, do you have any opinions on the merits or demerits of using Ipe, Cumaru, or Paduak instead of teak for exterior handrails?Thanks in Advance,Randy StaffordS/V GrenadineC&C 30-1 #7Ken Caryl, COFrom: "Danny Haughey via CnC-List" To: "cnc-list" Cc: "Danny Haughey" Sent: Thursday, June 30, 2016 8:49:40 AMSubject: Re: Stus-List Replacement Handrails

+1 on building your own! I do so on my Viking 33 and I was
really happy with the result. I even had to scribe them to the
rounded splash guard and they came out great!

Danny

On 6/20/2016 6:22 PM, Aaron Rouhi via
CnC-List wrote:

If you have a few wood working tools handy, they are easy to
build yourself. I built my handrails on my 30-1 out of teak.
All you need is a hole-saw, jig saw and a router to round the
edges. You would build two at a time. I have a matching set
down below.

This is the best picture I could find:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B87tJUU30YcDdm5rN0lZNTdqOU0/view?usp=sharing

IMG_2338.JPG

drive.google.com

Cheers,

Aaron R.
Admiral Maggie,
1979 C&C 30 MK1 #540
Annapolis, MD

From:
CnC-List on behalf
of RANDY via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, June 19, 2016 10:39 PM
To: cnc-list
Cc: RANDY
Subject: Stus-List Replacement Handrails

Listers-

Can anyone recommend a source for replacement
exterior (cabin top) handrails for a 30-1? I would
prefer teak, but would be willing to consider an
estimate on stainless steel as well. Thanks in advance.

Best Regards,
Randy Stafford
S/V Grenadine
C&C 30-1 #7
Ken Caryl, CO

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

___This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Goosneck on 1977 38 MkII

2016-08-01 Thread William Walker via CnC-List

Garhauer made me a new one out of stainless.  Sent old one to them.  Fit great. 
 
Bill Walker 
CnC 36
Pentwater, Mi.

I am going to need a new gooseneck.  Mine was a single aluminum piece with two 
loops. Top one broke off.  Boom fitting had an offset set of loops and a single 
5/8” stainless pin was holding everything together.  Now that the top loop 
broke off there is additional load on the bottom.  Did anyone have to replace 
theirs and how did they go about it?

 

 

Petar Horvatic

Sundowner

76 C&C 38MkII

Newport RI

 

 

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!


Sent from AOL Mobile Mail___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Finally Won a Race now reaching strut

2016-08-05 Thread William Walker via CnC-List

If you are sailing under US Sailing rules, 
the pole must be attached to mast, no longer than J measurement, and always 
opposite side from the boom.  You cannot hold any pole by hand.   
Bill Walker
CnC  36
Pentwater, Mi


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Finally Won a Race now reaching strut

2016-08-05 Thread William Walker via CnC-List

Francois,
  US SAILING Rule 50.2 clearly requires whisker or spinnaker pole to be 
attached to mast.  I think you will lose the argument at protest that you are 
using a boat hook not a whisker pole and therefore it doesn't have to be 
attached  but maybe not.  
  J length maximum pole restriction is a phrf restriction, not US SAILING, but 
it is a limitation in most phrf regions.  I see Lake Lanier has maximum 
spinnaker pole length of J unless original equipment boat came with is longer 
for that class. Maybe you don't have limitation on whisker pole length or maybe 
it would be interpreted as limitation on all pole lengths. Don't know.  
Bill Walker 
CnC 36
Pentwater, Mi.
 

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail

On Friday, August 5, 2016 Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List 
 wrote:

The boat hook:  We only do it in really light winds 0-4 knots, were talking 
glassy water on the lake.  It's a cinch do undo and it's a cinch to hold.  

We do sail under US Sailing rules and there are no stipulation whatsoever about 
the length of the pole, it's attachment to the mast, or position of the crew as 
long as we are inside the lifelines. I'm not trying to argue against local 
rules as I have seen rules for other areas on the web where there were mentions 
of attachment to the mast etc. On the lake, we don't use local interpretation 
of the rules, we go strictly by the US Sailing / ISAF document. 

Here's the actual rule from the ISAF 2013- 2016 document: 

Rule 50.3 Use of Outriggers 

(a) No sail shall be sheeted over or through an outrigger, except as permitted 
in rule 50.3(b) or 50.3(c). An outrigger is any fitting or other device so 
placed that it could exert outward pressure on a sheet or sail at a point from 
which, with the boat upright, a vertical line would fall outside the hull or 
deck. For the purpose of this rule, bulwarks, rails and rubbing strakes are not 
part of the hull or deck and the following are not outriggers: a bowsprit used 
to secure the tack of a sail, a bumkin used to sheet the boom of a sail, or a 
boom of a boomed headsail that requires no adjustment when tacking. 

(b) Any sail may be sheeted to or led above a boom that is regularly used for a 
sail and is permanently attached to the mast from which the head of the sail is 
set. 

(c) A headsail may be sheeted or attached at its clew to a spinnaker pole or 
whisker pole, provided that a spinnaker is not set. 

Important part being part "C" Spinnaker pole or whisker pole but no mention of 
it's description, attachment,  or position of the crew.  I guess someone could 
argue that a boat hook is not a proper whisker pole.  Quite a few of us do it 
on the lake and no one cares. As long a I don't get a protest:  In 0-3 knots I 
don't see any great danger, you can hold it one handed.. It's simply a matter 
of convenience and ease of use. Also it's much quicker / easier to change the 
depth / angle of  a portable pole instead of a heavy thing attached to the 
mast, especially in extremely light winds where any sudden move of the crew can 
upset the sailplan and kill your ever so slight apparent wind. 


Just to be clear, here's the actual rule on the crew: 

CREW POSITION; LIFELINES 49.1 Competitors shall use no device designed to 
position their bodies outboard, other than hiking straps and stiffeners worn 
under the thighs. 

49.2 When lifelines are required by the class rules or the sailing instructions 
they shall be taut, and competitors shall not position any Part 4 OTHER 
REQUIREMENTS WHEN RACING 28 part of their torsos outside them, except briefly 
to perform a necessary task. On boats equipped with upper and lower lifelines, 
a competitor sitting on the deck facing outboard with his waist inside the 
lower lifeline may have the upper part of his body outside the upper lifeline. 
If the class rules do not specify the material or minimum diameter of 
lifelines, they shall comply with the corresponding specifications in the ISAF 
Offshore Special Regulations.   

No mention of holding sails or anything else.. 


As I learned racing my Mustang.. Reading the rules very carefully and knowing 
how to interpret them in a fair is just another item on the long list of what 
makes the difference between the guy out front and the rest.. 

Here are the rules: 
http://www.sailing.org/tools/documents/ISAFRRS20132016Final-[13376].pdf


-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five" 
Lake Lanier, GA





___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Assymetrical spinnaker pole

2016-08-24 Thread William Walker via CnC-List


If you are in a phrf region that doesn't limit the whisker pole to the J 
measurement it may well be faster to go dead downwind poled out.  
Since under LakevMichigan phrf we are limited to J I have had success with 
gybing downwind.  BUT, it requires that you know and apply your Polars to the 
conditions and wind speed and be committed to them.  You can't just go as fast 
as you can in the wrong direction and expect it to turn out well.
My experience
Bill Walker
CnC  36
Pentwater, Mi  


On Wednesday, August 24, 2016 Charlie Nelson via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Same experience in my JAM fleet with 30-40 footers--barn doors win every 
time--in spite of advice to sail a hotter angle and jibe.
 
Can't figure out whether the advice is BS or I sail off at an angle where the 
extra distance is not made up by the faster speed and the subsequent jibes.
 
Until I am passed by a boat that jibes downwind in light air, I am sticking 
with the bard door approach!
 
Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom
C&C 36 XL/kcb #77
Oriental, NC
 
cenel...@aol.com
 
 





___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Possible upgrade to a C&C 36

2016-08-25 Thread William Walker via CnC-List

Ryan,
  I have owned a 1981 CnC  36 for 6 summers.  My first CnC.  I am very pleased 
with my boat, a fresh water local.  It has won our club championship 3 out of 5 
years, 2nd other two. 
   My keel looks very different as does my rudder. I draw 5' 9".  
   I am sure Fred is right that the numbers say it is more tender than some 
others, but I have never felt it is too tender.  reef and sail below 20* heel 
angle.  
   I sail Lake Michigan and have had her out in 30 and big waves never felt 
unsafe in this boat.
  I paid a lot more for mine, but have full set of high tech race sails, 6 
spinnaker and assortment of weird sails
  Just do your due diligence.  Feel free to contact off list.  
Bill Walker 
CnC  36
Pentwater, Michigan

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail

On Thursday, August 25, 2016 Ryan Doyle via CnC-List  
wrote:
And here is the link Sorry! 
http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1981/C%26C-36-2972935/Tremont/ME/United-States#.V78rN_T3anN

Sent from my iPhone

> 

On Aug 25, 2016, at 1:35 PM, Ryan Doyle  wrote:
> 
> Hey everyone,
> 
> So the wife and I have been coastal sailing our 30-1 around NY and NJ, and we 
> love her, but of course now that we're more experienced, we're considering 
> taking the jump to some longer distance crusing and we're ***possibly*** 
> looking to sell our beautiful 30-1 that I've worked so hard to restore and 
> move up to a larger boat - ideally with a shallower draft and some nicer 
> amenities.
> 
> I've been looking at this 1981 C&C 36. Ticks a lot of boxes for us... Shallow 
> draft, significantly bigger, a wheel, and a diesel.
> 
> I know there are a ton of 36 owners on here. Anyone have anything to say 
> about this boat good or bad? Any advice if I go up to look at her? She 
> definitely appears to need a little TLC, but I'm looking for a bargain with 
> good bones that I can fix up like I did my 30-1.
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> Ryan
> 
> Sent from my iPhone

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Cabin LED lights

2016-08-29 Thread William Walker via CnC-List

Yes, went to big box home depot.  they had several different led  battery under 
Cabinet lights.  mounted under storage in head.   

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail

On Monday, August 29, 2016 Sam Wheeler via CnC-List  
wrote:

Somewhat on this subject, I'm thinking about putting a battery powered light in 
the head so the light in there will work regardless of how the switches are set 
on the main panel.  Has anyone done that?  Any recommendations?


Sam

35-3 Scoundrel

SF


On Mon, Aug 29, 2016 at 4:27 AM, Bradley Lumgair via CnC-List 
 wrote:

I installed 10 ft of LED strip lights behind the teak valance on both sides of 
Pulse, have a goofy idea that I'm going to install a couple of short strips in 
the slot on the underside of the boom in RGB for cockpit lighting. In hind site 
I wish I'd installed RGB in the cabin as well. Purchased mine from Home Depot. 
No problem with them sticking so far, 2 summers in.
Brad
"Pulse" 33 MKII
Lake Huron




___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Broke my boat

2017-07-09 Thread William Walker via CnC-List

Neil,
  Scary stuff.  Glad no one hurt.  
Bill Walker 
Evening Star
CnC 36
Pentwater, Mi

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail

On Sunday, July 9, 2017 schiller via CnC-List  wrote:

We were dis masted yesterday just off shore from Muskegon, Michigan yesterday.  
The starboard chain plate bulkhead failed and the chain plate pulled out 
through the deck.  The mast snapped at the spreaders and fell off to the 
leeward side.

We were in the starting stages of the Jolly Roger Shoreline race.  The 
conditions changed from about 11-12 kts (true) to 14-15 kts when the chain 
plate failed.  Waves were about 3 feet.  We had been on a beam reach doing 
7.0-7.2 kts and hardened up to closehauled to see if we were going to be able 
to point to the turning mark when it failed.  We had about twenty seconds 
between hearing the pop and having the chain plate fly out of the deck with the 
mast failed.  Luckily, all were in the cockpit at failure.  I was just starting 
out to crash drop sails from the first pop and seeing the slack leeward shroud. 
 The helmsman had just started turning into the wind.

After about an hour, we were able to get the main off and stowed and get the 
jib on deck with the mast lashed to the bow pulpit.  Took the boat back in to 
Muskegon to Torresen Marine and left it in their haulout well until Monday when 
they can start assessing it.

It will come down to economics to see if the hull value will support a new mast 
and structural repairs necessary.

The starboard chain plate had leaked in the past and I had glassed in the 
bulkhead and added a backing plate when I bought her (22 years ago) but the 
wood in the area does not look good.

I will keep the list updated with how things pan out.

Neil Schiller
1970 Redwing 35, Hull #7
(C&C 35, Mark I)
"Corsair"
White Lake, Michigan
(Now residing in Muskegon for the time being)

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: 
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Battery replacement time

2017-07-09 Thread William Walker via CnC-List

What impact does requirement of ISAF that batteries be of type that cannot leak 
electrolyte...does this require agm or gel for racers?  Or are wet cell Sealed 
sufficiently to comply?  I read to require agm or gel after 1/2012.. 
Bill Walker 
CnC 36
Pentwater, Mi

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail

On Sunday, July 9, 2017 Dennis C. via CnC-List  wrote:

Every boater has an opinion on batteries.  I've been using Delco Voyager wet 
cell batteries for almost 20 years.  Usually get 7-8 years life.  Except for 
the spill prevention aspect of AGMs, I think the Voyagers offer the most bang 
for the buck.  The pro fishermen like them also.


On the other hand, I just replaced the battery in my truck this morning.  
Advance Auto Motorcraft brand.  Didn't last 24 months.  Had to go through the 
idle relearn hassle.  Pain in the butt.  If it hadn't been a free replacement, 
I'd have switched the truck to Delco batteries.


Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA


On Sun, Jul 9, 2017 at 11:28 AM, tim via CnC-List  wrote:

Hi,

 

Its time for battery replacement.  I am presently using Interstate #31 Deep 
cell (2 house, 1 for start).  Looking to go AGM route and seeking advice for 
which manufacturer/brand seems to be most reliable and longevity for the money. 
 Leaning toward Lifeline after some research.  Very open to other 
recommendations based on experience.  I use a couple solar cells for trickle 
charging as on a mooring.

 

Thanks for your advice.

 

Tim

29’ Mk1

Malletts Bay, VT

SV Sly Fox


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: 
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List 1986 C&C 44 balsa core isolated or not

2017-07-10 Thread William Walker via CnC-List

I am shocked too...i think I would be careful answering for him..this is what 
you pay for...
Bill Walker 
CnC 36

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail

On Monday, July 10, 2017 John Irvin via CnC-List  wrote:

I'm surprised the surveyor doesn't know most of these answers himself.

Sent from my iPhone


On Jul 10, 2017, at 4:10 PM, Dan via CnC-List  wrote:

Regarding the 1986 C&C 44 I'm buying:


My surveyor got back to me having done only the moisture meter readings on the 
hull and topsides. The results were not horrific but there are some areas of 
concern and I have some questions for other C&C owners with Balsa cored boats 
from around 1986. 


1. The surveyor asked if the balsa extends below the water line or is the boat 
solid glass waterline down?


2. There was a high moisture content found in the bow area, starboard side 
below the waterline just below the chain locker area. Is there a water tank 
there or could this be wet balsa?


3. There was a very high moisture content all around the shaft log (where the 
propeller shaft protrudes) - Does anyone know why that would be?


4. There was slightly elevated moisture around the anchor windlass and foot 
pedals. Was an electric windlass a standard install on a C&C44 or could this 
moisture be due to someone cutting a hole themselves without isolating the core?


Thanks everyone, sorry, I know this was a little longer but It'd be great to 
know what I'm dealing with! :)


Dan


On Sat, Jul 1, 2017 at 11:03 PM, Dan  wrote:

Sorry if this was sent twice - the first time I tried it I was not registered 
but had no responses... 


I'm looking at a 1986 C&C 44 to buy. Before I get into paying for a survey to 
check the core out with a moisture meter I'm wondering if any 44 owners out 
there have had any problems with wet core? - when you remove through hull 
fittings is the core isolated with solid glass to prevent egress or can you 
visibly see the balsa core layer?


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: 
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List A cautionary tale...

2017-07-17 Thread William Walker via CnC-List

Fred,
  I went through this last fall.  The shaft should be a press fit on coupler in 
machinist terms.  Very snug...
  Just spoke to major manufacturer of the coupler last week, Michigan 
Propeller, and they confirmed that a new hub is shipped undersized in diameter 
for shaft and that you take to machinist and have it milled to a press fit for 
your shaft...this is on friends boat.  
   I think you should look carefully at the coupler to see if worn. On my 
friends boat the key way in shaft was fine (STAINLESS) but the key way in the 
coupler was toast from forward reverse cycles.  Hope yours is as simple as 
replacing the set bolts..
Bill Walker 
CnC 36
Pentwater, Mi.
Bill Walker 

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail

On Monday, July 17, 2017 svpegasus38 via CnC-List  wrote:

Fred,

On my LF38 the hub was a press fit on the prop shaft. I am thinking you might 
have bigger problems than needing a new set screw. 

When I replaced the shaft bearing on my LF38 I had to pull the v-drive to 
remove the shaft, 1 because I couldn't easily pull the hub off and 2 the rudder 
was in the way. 

FWIW.




Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device

Doug Mountjoy 

POYC 

Pegasus for sale)

Lf38 

Significant Other 

LF39 


 Original message 

From: Frederick G Street via CnC-List  

Date: 7/17/17 06:31 (GMT-08:00) 

To: Danny Haughey via CnC-List  

Cc: Frederick G Street  

Subject: Stus-List A cautionary tale... 


Over the weekend, we enjoyed a nice sail on our 1979 LF38 from our marina out 
to Stockton Island in the Apostle Islands of Lake Superior.  A bunch of boat 
friends came by in the evening for cocktails and nibbles, then we settled in 
for the night.  Yesterday morning, I started the engine and pulled up the 
anchor, and we motored back towards the marina.  There was enough wind just off 
dead downwind, so I pulled out the genny and shut the engine down.  As we 
picked up speed, there was a rhythmic clunking sound down below.  I tried to 
put the transmission in forward, then reverse, to see if it was the shaft 
spinning, but there was no change.


So I went down and opened up the engine compartment to see if I could find the 
source of the noise.  The key for the prop shaft at the coupler of the V-drive 
was sitting down below the coupler, and the shaft was freely spinning.  Note 
that the only way this key can come out is if the shaft slides out of the 
coupler; that’s what had happened.  We were saved by the fact that I had 
installed a hose clamp on the shaft between the V-drive and the shaft log; that 
clamp was the only thing that kept us from losing the propeller and shaft out 
the bottom of the boat.


Checking the cap bolt on the coupler, it didn’t seem to be loose, and the shaft 
has a large dimple where the cap bolt is supposed to capture the shaft.  I was 
able to loosen the cap bolt, line up the shaft and coupler, re-insert the key 
and slide the shaft back into the coupler and tighten things up.  Then I added 
another hose clamp just ahead of the shaft log, in case things came apart again.


I’ll have to recheck the cap bolt after a week or two and see how things look.  
But that silly $2.00 stainless hose clamp definitely saved us from a world of 
hurt in the cold waters of Lake Superior…


I urge everyone on the list to make sure you have this simple fix in place.


— Fred



Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: 
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List mast gate

2017-07-21 Thread William Walker via CnC-List

Can anyone give me ideas how to pattern a mast gate so I could get someone to 
machine from aluminum..Tired of feeding without a mast gate..
Bill Walker 
CnC 36
Pentwater, Mi 

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List mast gate

2017-07-21 Thread William Walker via CnC-List

reefing  geez...
bwalker

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail

On Friday, July 21, 2017 William Walker via CnC-List  
wrote:

Can anyone give me ideas how to pattern a mast gate so I could get someone to 
machine from aluminum..Tired of feeding without a mast gate..
Bill Walker 
CnC 36
Pentwater, Mi 

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: 
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List mast gate

2017-07-21 Thread William Walker via CnC-List

Hmm...been sailing a long time.. Can't visualize a Jack line on lower slugs...Bill WalkerOn Jul 21, 2017 4:34 PM, Sam Salter via CnC-List  wrote:Another solution, and avoiding a mast gate altogether, is to use a jack line on the lower half dozen mast slugs. SamC&C 26  Liquorice Ghost Lake Alberta On Jul 21, 2017, at 2:18 PM, Sam Salter <sam.c.salter@gmail.com> wrote:They sell them on line:http://www.mastgates.com/- one example.samC&C 26  Liquorice Ghost Lake Alberta On Jul 21, 2017, at 1:24 PM, William Walker via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:Can anyone give me ideas how to pattern a mast gate so I could get someone to machine from aluminum..Tired of feeding without a mast gate..
Bill Walker 
CnC 36
Pentwater, Mi 
Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
___This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  https://www.paypal.me/stumurrayAll Contributions are greatly appreciated!___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Re-routing cockpit drain lines

2017-08-02 Thread William Walker via CnC-List

But can it drain when heeled?
Bill Walker 
CnC  36
Pentwater,  Mi 

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail

On Wednesday, August 2, 2017 Lee Rosenbaum via CnC-List  
wrote:

Barbara,

On our 33 MK2, the cockpit drain lines are cross routed to through hulls 
(port/starboard hull beneath cockpit.

This way when the boat is heeled over water can not come up the drain line.

Regards,

Lee

Kookaburra

1985 33 MK2

Kenosha, WI

Date: Wed, 2 Aug 2017 07:48:46 -0400
From: David Paine 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Re-routing cockpit drain lines

Hi Barbara,

I have a 33-1 with the same configuration.  I don't see any need to change
it as It works well for draining small amounts of water.   However, when
you need to empty the cockpit in a hurry, say when its been filled after
being pooped by a breaking wave, you need more drain cross-section.  I
added a 2" (or maybe its 1.5") drain from the cockpit aft bulkhead (as
close to the cockpit floor as possible) angled down slightly to the
transom.   I can tell you that the last time I was up to my knees in water,
I was pleased to have the extra drainage!

Best,

David

On Tue, Aug 1, 2017 at 6:37 PM, Barbara L. Hickson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> On my '76 33-1, the cockpit drains into thru hulls with inline ball valves
> in a y configuration below the cockpit floor and then straight down thru
> the hull, well beneath the waterline. It appears from line drawings that
> this is the only practical configuration. If the drains were rerouted to
> either side of the hull or to the stern above the waterline, there would a)
> not be enough slope, and b) the outlets would allow water back into the
> cockpit when heeling or with a following wave.
> Has anyone done this, or am I correct in my assessment?  Has anyone used
> marelon replacement flanged seacocks?  Their video says they are to be
> screwed only to a backing plate and not screwed all the way thru the hull.
> Seems like a good solution if it works.
> Thx for any input.
> Barbara Hickson
> "Flight Risk" '76 33-1
> Charleston, SC

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: 
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Winterizing Diesel Engine Raw Water

2017-08-05 Thread William Walker via CnC-List

Ron, 
I just close the intake through hull, take the top off the strainer, and pour 
in antifreeze with engine running..done.
Bill Walker 
CnC 36
Pentwater Mi 

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail

On Saturday, August 5, 2017 Ron Ricci via CnC-List  
wrote:

Each year, I struggle with pulling a hose off my raw water strainer to flush 
anti-freeze through the system.  I’ve considered installing a tee in the line.  
Recently I came across an adaptor (Sea Flush) that fits in the top of most any 
raw water strainer but it didn’t look like there was enough vertical clearance. 
 There is an adaptor for a Groco strainer but my C&C 37+ with a Yanmar 3HM35F 
appears to have a Perko 0493 Size 5 strainer.  I contacted Perko who indicated 
that I could convert my 0493 strainer to a 0593 model which has a flush valve 
and hose connection on the top.  Unfortunately, it looks like I’d need about 
$250 worth of parts to make this work.  I’ve heard that a second cap for the 
strainer could be modified by installing a hose fitting.  The cap costs about 
$35.

 

I’m curious what other listers have done and if I’m right on the strainer model 
#.  

 

Regards,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C&C 37+

Bristol, RI

ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

 

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: 
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Derelict C&C 24 MKII

2017-08-07 Thread William Walker via CnC-List

Bill,
 In reasonably good condition, what is boat worth?  Think about it..if project 
to sell, probably not smart.  Keep and love, maybe.  But guaranteed you will 
have more cash and sweat in it than you think...
Bill Walker 
CnC  36

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail

On Monday, August 7, 2017 Bill Dakin via CnC-List  wrote:

I have had my eyes on a derelict 24 on our dock for months now.  My inquiries 
led the management to look into the status of the boat and owners, if any.  
Turns out it belongs to the marina and they are willing to take offers on it 
and 'don't worry about insulting offers', which I interpret it to mean, we 
would like it to go.  My offer is leaning to pay for the mast step and haul out 
to my 25 MKII trailer where I can transport it for long term renovation.  


The staff pumped out 18" of water on the cabin sole to provide some inspection 
opportunity.  The most obvious problem is a drip from the blocks that lead aft 
to the cockpit.  I'm concerned this region contains plywood sandwich 
construction.  Even if it is only foam in the construction, and it is 
saturated, will it be possible to dry out without removing the 
fiberglass/gelcoat cabin top.  Both instances are rough with the former being 
very serious.  


She has been in the water for many years, so it occurs to me she will have a 
blistering hull.  I would be in no hurry to get her renovated.  No sails, 
running rigging shot, even water dripping from the chain plates inside the 
cabin.  Gosh, I'm about to talk myself out of this!


Bill Dakin

C&C 25 MKII

S/V Tapestry


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: 
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Water tank access - replacement threaded cap?

2017-08-08 Thread William Walker via CnC-List

I have had success by taking old one to a RV dealership parts department...
Bill Walker CnC 36

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail

On Tuesday, August 8, 2017 Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List  
wrote:

Hello all,


After fixing our cracked water tank, I put the caps back on the inspection 
ports, and filled up all the tanks, checking for leaks.  One in particular 
leaks rather badly, and it turns out the lip on the cap is cracked, causing the 
o-ring to not make a very good seal.  These do not appear to be the same as 
typical deck inspection port.  


Anyone know where to get new ones?  


Thanks in advance, 

 

Bruce Whitmore
1994 C&C 37/40+,  "Astralis"
(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: 
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List transmission

2017-08-27 Thread William Walker via CnC-List

Ok, really, its a friends boatwhen the transmission is in gear you can 
still rotate, with some difficulty, but not a lot, the prop shaft...on mine, 
when in gear it is locked.
What is friends diagnosis / fix?

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail

On Saturday, August 26, 2017 Gary Russell via CnC-List  
wrote:

McKanica silicone remover works well on silicone.


https://www.amazon.com/SILICONE-CAULK-MCKANICA-MfrPartNo-0354/dp/B000PVT1P4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1503787953&sr=8-1&keywords=mckanica+silicone+caulk+remover


Gary

S/V Kaylarah

'90 C&C 37+

East Greenwich, RI, USA


~~~_/)~~


On Sat, Aug 26, 2017 at 9:22 AM, Rick Brass via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Try 3M General Purpose Adhesive Remover. I’ve never found anything better for 
removing adhesive goop – including the residue of 4200 and 5200. You can buy it 
at any  auto parts store that sells refinishing supplies.

 

Removing silicone is a particular problem. When I rebuilt my A&H hatches a few 
years ago, I sourced a purpose made silicone remover to remove the residue 
(Sikaflex won’t stick to the silicone). I can’t recall the brand I bought. 
Perhaps someone on the list can supply the name, or you can find it on a Google 
Search.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jeremy Ralph 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, August 25, 2017 10:49 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Jeremy Ralph 
Subject: Stus-List removing portlight sealant

 

Hi All,

 

I'm replacing portlights with VHB taped acrylic. The PO sealed with Sudbury 
Elastomeric Sealant (silicon + polyurethane formulation) and screws through the 
acrylic, which  I've taken off using a multi-tool scraper.  The sealant remains 
a mess -- the heat/friction from the tool seemed to soften and smear the black 
sealant.

 

I've been trying to source some marine debond or adhesive remover that will 
play nice with fiberglass.  I did find some Xylene based Auto General Purpose 
Adhesive Cleaner (PF600) which looks promising but has a "Warning: ... not 
recommended for fiberglass..."

 

Any tips for removing the old sealant?  

 

Thanks,

 

  Jeremy

  C&C 34-1 #041 

  Vancouver BC


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: 
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List transmission

2017-08-27 Thread William Walker via CnC-List

Really, I trimmed last message...sorry Stu..
Bill Walker
Cnc 36


Sent from AOL Mobile Mail___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List E measurement

2017-09-05 Thread William Walker via CnC-List

34 owners.
A friend, really, needs to know the E measurement for a c n c 34 TO THE BLACK 
BAND ON THE BOOM.
That is, max foot length on sail for class, phrf, without penalty.
A SOURCE for this would be appreciated.
a have looked up the specs but not sure if the E measurement shown is boom 
length or sail foot length.
Thanks for your knowledgeable advice.
Bill Walker CnC 36

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail

On Tuesday, September 5, 2017 bobmor99 . via CnC-List  
wrote:

For what it's worth, I bought Ox (33-1) ~10 years ago on eBay. It was very much 
a project boat.

Price sells. Put a low "Buy it Now" price if you use eBay.

--Bob

On Mon, Sep 4, 2017 at 7:38 PM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List 
 wrote:

I would post it on craigslist and other places as "Make an offer, must be gone 
by xxx date". 

Do you have a date in mind? Sounds like you're in a rush. Getting that boat off 
the property will cost someone money, it's difficult to sell a boat in that 
condition, in a hurry, anyway. If you're giving it away someone may pony up the 
money to get transport arranged. 

Good luck.

Steve

Formerly, C&C 32 Suhana

On Fri, Sep 1, 2017 at 3:12 PM, David Kaseler via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Joe,
The original 33s are great boats we still have ours and love her. For us, she 
both cruises and races well. Old IOR design creates some challenges with the 
spinnaker in a blow but you can learn to deal with that. From our prospective 
she is the right size for a couple.
Hope you find a buyer. If she still has her Atomic 4 gas engine many potential 
buyers may see that as a negative but we just replaced our old Atomic 4 with a 
rebuilt one from Moyer Marine. Don Moyer is the man for these engines and has a 
great website where he sells endless parts, a complete repair and rebuild 
manual and rebuilt engines with new heads and manifolds and if you want to pay 
a bit more he even sells "rebuilt" engines with new blocks.
Good luck on finding a buyer.
Regards,
Dave. Kaseler
1975 C&C 33
SLY

Sent from my iPad

> On Aug 30, 2017, at 10:17 AM, Joseph Kramer via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
>
> Like many dreams in life they come and then fade.
> "Benefit" was the dream come true for me. "Risk" our first boat adventure did 
> result in a benefit that still lasts, which is the reality of life together 
> with my wife.
> So I have this fading dream boat that is fading as fast as I am.
> The issue is I have this boat on jack stands on my property in the middle of 
> Chatham county NC.
> I am seeking advice...
> This is a project boat.
> Like many dreams sometimes there are others that have that same delusional 
> dream. But, not really very many people have this dream for this 33ft aging 
> beauty.
> I am seeking advice on the best way as quickly as possible,..remove this 
> fading classic...
> Any dreamers???
> OK how about pragmatists.
> thanks
> Joe

> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: 
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Fuel Tank

2017-09-09 Thread William Walker via CnC-List

Steve, 
  A timely thread.  Until yesterday I was watching it with a ho hum attitude.  
  Yesterday while prepping to move boat to a race venue 10 miles away, a crew 
said, what's the diesel smell?  
  Long and short, didnt move boat, pumped diesel from bilge...pin hole leaks in 
bottom of tank, original aluminum.  So, either fix it now or fix it at 
inopportune time...
Bill Walker 1981 CnC 36
Pentwater, Mu

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail

On Saturday, September 9, 2017 robert via CnC-List  
wrote:
Steve:

Appreciate the advice.genuinelyhowever, I am the type of guy 
that tries to get out in front of trouble/problems before they become 
sameI am O.K. managing crisis.I just like to avoid it in the 
first place. My fuel tank is approaching 34 years, probably aluminum, 
however, I do believe it will fail (probably a slow leak around the 
welded joints where the tank sits on top of the wooden platform like 
another C&C lister here today) . So if this is a possibility, why not 
get out in front when you have the time to plan, shop around and get 
exactly what you want for the price you are willing to pay, and avoid 
the possibility of a fuel leak at the most inopportune time. My slip 
neighbors would not like me pumping diesel fuel from my bilge, which is 
a likely scenario when these things happen during the sailing season.

Yes, the boat is old, however, it is in great condition because I bought 
it that way from the original owner in 2006 and I have maintained it 
that way since. I fellow club member with a 1984 C&C 32 had his mixing 
elbow crack mid season.when the engine was on, it was spewing salt 
water but more importantly, gases (e.g. CO) He lost a month sailing 
until he got someone to replace it. The following Fall after haulout, I 
replaced my mixing elbow, muffler, exhaust hosesI did the work 
myself and it was not an easy job..old boat but new parts that wear 
out and therefore peace of mind. I put a new anchor light on the mast 
top this Spring but I never anchor..why?because it is there and 
it should work should I decide to overnight anchor.

I understand a small leak won't stop me from boating/sailing, however, I 
don't want to experience a small fuel leak and the smell of diesel in my 
boat if I can avoid it. And I know my tank is clean.I just changed 
my primary and secondary fuel filters and they were very 
clean.hadn't been changed in 8 years.that's how confident I am 
in the fuel in the tank and the cleanliest of the tank.

My brother has a new 33' sailboat and it almost sank this Summer because 
his new boat had a cracked retaining nut on the raw water 
strainer..until it was replaced he had to close the thru hull or the 
boat would fill up with water. his automatic/electric bilge pump 
worked fine until his battery(s) capacity expired. So even a new boat 
can leave you short of peace of mind.

Bottom lineevery year the old boat gets something done to it so I 
can have a stress free sailing season.the fuel tank's time has come 
I thinkthat is my next project and when it is finished, I will feel 
good.

Again, greatly appreciate all the input from the people 
hereinvaluable to me as a boat owner.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2017-09-09 11:40 AM, Steve Thomas via CnC-List wrote:
> The whole boat is old. If new is the criterion for peace of mind, then you 
> need a new boat. Not leaking and you are not departing on a world trip, then 
> I wouldn't worry about it. If a leak ever develops it is unlikely to start 
> out big and it won't stop you from getting home.
> What can suddenly stop you is guk in the bottom of the tank getting sucked up 
> in rough weather. Water in the fuel can cause that in a relatively short 
> time. The hole for the fuel sender is big enough to take a look inside. Guk 
> is a bigger problem down south, and a lot of people install dual filter 
> systems as a precaution. One clogs, switch to the other. Also, a screen at 
> the end of the pick up tube is likely to clog if guk in the tank gets shook 
> loose by rough weather. It is not just a southern problem. It happened to a 
> friend of mine who was heading south from Chester NS. Had to get towed into 
> Liverpool. Couldn't sail it in the prevailing weather. Better to get rid of 
> the screen and rely on the primary filter. Your choice what to worry about 
> and where to spend your time and money. Same caveat on free advice applies.
>
> Steve.
>
>  robert via CnC-List  wrote:
> For $200, I would simply forget putting the old tank back in even after
> a good inspection.just the peace of mind is worth $200plus my
> labor which can be obtained for adequate amounts of beer.
>
> Now, can I buy a new fuel tank locally or do I have to order from afar?
>
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C&C 32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S.
>
> On 2017-09-08 5:07 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:
>> Keep in mind that pitting may be on the inside from water in the

Re: Stus-List Fuel tank replacement 35-1

2017-09-10 Thread William Walker via CnC-List

All this talk about leaking tanks caused mine to spring a leak on 
Fridayreally.
Wish the access on my 36 was as good as others seem to have.  Espar furnace and 
refrigeration complicate things for me.
Dennis, what tank do you recommend?  Good website for fitting install in 
plastic?  Or do the come ready to go?
Bill Walker CnC 36
Penteater, Mi

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail

On Saturday, September 9, 2017 Dennis C. via CnC-List  
wrote:

Like Neil says, removing the tank is not difficult.  Last time I pulled mine 
took less than an hour.  I needed to get to the strut bolts.


The concern is the elbow on the fill hose.  If you damage it, replacement may 
be difficult.  Gates makes an elbow that can be cut to fit but you may need a 
coupling or nipple to make it work.


If your fill hose is original, I STRONGLY suggest you replace it.  It is well 
past its useful life.


Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA


On Sat, Sep 9, 2017 at 8:42 PM, Neil Gallagher via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Hervey,

Getting it out was not too difficult,  the tank fits out through the lazarette 
under the starboard seat.  My tank was held in place by two galvanized steel 
straps, corrosion from which caused the leak. Hardest part was undoing the fill 
and vent connections, had to get to them through the panel at the aft end of 
the port quarter berth. 

As someone mentioned in a recent post, getting the fill hose back on was a 
pain.  If I recall there's an elbow just off the tank connection, little bit of 
a struggle to make it tight.  I used fabric straps to hold the new plastic tank 
down.  My tank gauge has never worked so I just look through the wall of the 
tank to see the level.



___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: 
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

1 2 3 >

1 - 100 of 259 matches

Mail list logo