Re: Stus-List List

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

This entire discussion is giving me Hives…   :^)

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On May 2, 2014, at 4:02 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List  
wrote:

> That is "Borg Collective Vessel 34J51"... Though wouldn't all Borg Collective 
> ships operate as one entity?
> 
> Right generation, wrong quadrant.
> 
> Right, Edd?
> 
> Rick Brass
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> 
>> On May 2, 2014, at 13:57, "Dennis C. via CnC-List"  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> We are the "listers".  You will be assimilated.  Resistance is futile.
>> 
>> 7 of 9
>> Bejorian Vessel 34J51

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Re: Stus-List List

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Unfortunately, she died of a heart attack in 1998: 
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Persis_Khambatta

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On May 2, 2014, at 5:41 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List  
wrote:

> Now you have me wondering whatever happened to Perses 
> Kimbata.

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Re: Stus-List trekies?

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

“All I ask is a tall ship, and a star to steer her by…”

Captain Kirk, in the TOS episode The Ultimate Computer, quoting John Masefield.

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On May 2, 2014, at 6:03 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List  wrote:

> Does mentioning Hornblower relate this to sailing?

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Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 100, Issue 17

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Adam — read directly below your email below:


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On May 5, 2014, at 4:07 PM, Adam Marks via CnC-List  
wrote:

> Can I stop these somehow? Did not realize I would get so  many emails  
> everyday 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> On May 5, 2014, at 5:04 PM, via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
>> Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
>>   cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> 
>> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
>>   http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
>>   cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com

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Re: Stus-List Mixed batteries

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

And if anyone’s interested, I’ve got a spare Blue Sea 8280 panel I’d sell you 
for a very reasonable price.

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On May 6, 2014, at 6:52 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
 wrote:

> I was too busy with a CRYC board meeting to get a wiring diagram done, so 
> here is the Blue Sea version.
> http://content.www.bluesea.com.s3.amazonaws.com/images/reference/battery_management_wiring_schematics/2batt_1eng.png
> This is basically what I have.
> Blue Sea makes a number of battery management panels that are nice if you 
> don't feel like making your own. There are always a few on FleaBay:
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Blue-Sea-Parallel-Circuit-Mini-Battery-Switch-Panel-8280-/251514236381?pt=Boat_Parts_Accessories_Gear&hash=item3a8f6aaddd&vxp=mtr#ht_2256wt_1073
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Blue-Sea-8686-Panel-Dc-Battery-Management-/281325735773?pt=Boat_Parts_Accessories_Gear&hash=item4180520f5d&vxp=mtr#ht_3122wt_1073
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Joe Della Barba
> Coquina
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Re: Stus-List Charging with engine, was mixed batteries

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Most alternators I’ve seen (without an external regulator) will put out about 
13.8V to 14.4V when charging.

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On May 6, 2014, at 10:54 AM, via CnC-List  wrote:

> At the risk of beating a dead horse (battery), I have one more question for 
> the list.
>  
> When the average sailboat engine is running, what is the likely charging 
> voltage to the battery or batteries?
>  
> Unless one has an alternator output controller which matches the recommended 
> voltages for the batteries being
> charged, it seems that they would be charged with whatever voltage the 
> alternator supplies.
>  
> If this is the case, and if one rarely charges the battery(s) at the dock, it 
> seems a little pointless to
> fret over what the voltage profile the battery charger provides, since the 
> batteries are likely charged mostly
> when the engine is running without such a controller.
>  
>  
>  
> Charlie Nelson
> Water Phantom
>  
> cenel...@aol.com
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Re: Stus-List Charging with engine, was mixed batteries

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

I’m in the same situation as Rich — flawless operation over several years, and 
no issues.

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On May 8, 2014, at 9:23 AM, Rich Knowles via CnC-List  
wrote:

> Michael: Can you please explain why you say the Echo Charge is not a 
> solution? I have had one on my boat for 11 years now with never a flat 
> battery and no overcharging problems. Ditto all the boats I have installed 
> them on.
> 
> Rich

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Re: Stus-List Fuel Tank sender replacement

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

If I recall correctly, you’re probably looking for a 270 ohm sender.

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On May 8, 2014, at 10:06 AM, Fair, Mike via CnC-List  
wrote:

> I have tank senders in my water and fuel tanks feeding a gage at the nav 
> station. The Fuel sender is failing and I want to replace it. However I can’t 
> find an markings on the unit to determine the Ohm range it works with.
>  
> Is there some way to measure the resistance of the working sender to 
> determine which sender to order? I do have a mulitmeter.
>  
>  
> Thanks,
>  
> Mike Fair
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Re: Stus-List Do I keep the original Certificate of Documentation on board?

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Yes, the original CG documentation should be aboard, along with a copy of the 
Ship Station License and copy of the EPIRB registration.  You can download 
“unofficial” copies of the CG documentation from their website to keep at home 
(along with the original Ship Station license and EPIRB registration).

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On May 11, 2014, at 5:32 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List  
wrote:

> Yes, it seems like a dumb question.
> 
> What about the FCC license?
> EPIRB registration?
> 
> 
> -- 
> Joel 
> 301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Rebel Heart -

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

It sounds like they had SSB; the radio got damaged by seawater.

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On May 11, 2014, at 5:40 PM, John Pennie via CnC-List  
wrote:

> I'm sorry, have to jump in here.  With a sat phone, assuming it works, you 
> may get some operator on the phone. With a SSB, assuming you took the time to 
> learn it, you will probably get half the ham community on the other end.  
> That is a group that will go above and beyond.
> 
> John
> KC2-WPS
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On May 11, 2014, at 11:26 AM, Wally Bryant via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
>> Rebel Heart, the Hans Christian 36 scuttled recently, did an interview on 
>> NPR a few days ago: 
>> 
>> 
>> It was interesting to hear that the Iridium Satellite phone failed with an 
>> 'Invalid SIM card' message because the distributor providing the cards made 
>> a change and invalidated all the existing SIM cards.
>> 
>> I've had that happen to me *twice* in the last 18 months, and while they 
>> were very cool and FedExed a new SIM card internationally, it is very 
>> disconcerting.   I consider that thing a very important piece of safety 
>> gear, and in fact only have it in case of emergency.  I don't think FedEx 
>> will deliver to a boat off shore.
>> 
>> Wal
>> 
>> -- 
>> s/v Stella Blue
>> www.wbryant.com
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Re: Stus-List Get me off list

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Rod and Lisa — go to: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

And look for the “unsubscribe” instructions.

Really.

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On May 14, 2014, at 2:20 PM, Rod and Lisa via CnC-List  
wrote:

> Please get me off this list..thank you
> 
> Sent from my iPad
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Re: Stus-List help

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Rich — did you just call Dan a “dressy scribe”?!   :^)

Go to http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com and follow the 
instructions for changing your email address; or unsubscribe and *re-subscribe* 
with the new email address.

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On May 14, 2014, at 2:40 PM, Rich Knowles via CnC-List  
wrote:

> Dan. Go to the cncphotoalbum site, unsubscribe an dressy scribe to your new 
> address. 
> 
> Rich

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Re: Stus-List bragging on how old we are... [was "java updates"]

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

At least you could use the AM radio as a RDF in a pinch…   :^)

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On May 16, 2014, at 12:37 PM, Gary Nylander via CnC-List 
 wrote:

> I'll call that. Marina Del Rey to Ensenada on a Kettenburg 41 with the same 
> 'electronics'.
>  
> Gary
> - Original Message -
> From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Sent: Friday, May 16, 2014 1:34 PM
> Subject: Re: Stus-List java updates
> 
> I’ll raise you DR from Cape May to Newport on a wooden ketch with a kerosene 
> stove and an AM marine radio.
>  
> Joe Della Barba Coquina
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Martin 
> DeYoung via CnC-List
> Sent: Friday, May 16, 2014 1:27 PM
> To: Gary Nylander; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List java updates
>  
> > Come on, kids IBM punch cards, followed by a 1401 card system, 1440, 
> > then 1130.
>  
> How about:
>  
> DR, Sextant, RDF, LORAN, Sat Nav, GPS …
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Re: Stus-List java updates

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

This photo was taken yesterday at my marina:



My launch date is now in mid-June...

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On May 16, 2014, at 2:46 PM, Wally Bryant via CnC-List  
wrote:

> Is it still winter up there?
> 
> Just waiting for hurricane season to kick in so I can ride the southerlies 
> out of the zone.
> 
> Wal

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Re: Stus-List where to attach the fixed end of an autopilot linear drive

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

That would be my suggestion, too.  In fact, it WAS my suggestion to Richard 
Bush to install his new system…   :^)

Graham, if you need to mount the drive to the underside of the cockpit sole, 
make absolutely sure to get the geometry correct.  Most of our boats have the 
rudder post at an angle to vertical, so the geometry can get confusing.  Often 
times a beefy support made of fiberglass board epoxied and glassed to the hull 
or adjacent structure is the most effective.  And the earlier post is correct, 
the loads on these can approach 1000 pounds if you’re in heavy weather and the 
ram is working hard.

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On May 21, 2014, at 8:47 AM, Ken Heaton via CnC-List  
wrote:

> Hey Graham,
> 
> Plan C (fab up a shelf and glass it to the hull) is how it was done in our 
> boat.  Fillets with lots of tabbing to distribute the loads over the hull.
> 
> I realize they are different boats.
> 
> Ken H.

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Re: Stus-List where to attach the fixed end of an autopilot linear drive

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

But it won’t really be “near” the quadrant; the linear drives are often a 
foot-and-a-half or two feet long, and the drive end needs to be at a tangent to 
the quadrant.  It’s tough (as Richard has found out…), but if you’re creative, 
you can usually find a spot somewhere around the circle of the quadrant that’ll 
work and that gives you access.

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On May 21, 2014, at 9:11 AM, Tim Goodyear via CnC-List  
wrote:

> Glassing in a shelf near the quadrant would require teaching a very small 
> five year old how to work with fiberglass on the 35-3...
> 
> Tim
> Mojito
> C&C 35-3
> Branford, CT

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Stus-List restoration and relaunch

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

As beautiful as our old C&C’s are, you should check out this video on another 
beautiful classic:

http://www.offcenterharbor.com/videos/bringing-boats-life-rockport-marine/?awt_l=93Npw&awt_m=3V.w9dhEfr44w9k

Amazing handiwork…



Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

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Re: Stus-List restoration and relaunch

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

I imagine she’ll owe us time…   :^)

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On May 22, 2014, at 10:45 AM, Joel Aronson  wrote:

> Nice!
> 
> Apparently our competition to Bermuda includes another classic, a 100 foot 
> schooner:
> 
> http://forums.sailinganarchy.com/index.php?showtopic=150658
> Joel

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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump installation - was Re: Bilge Pump Cleaning

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Don’t forget to properly fuse the wire within seven inches of the connection to 
+12VDC!!!  This fuse should be sized to protect the wire going to the pump 
switch.  There should also be a fuse closer to the pump, sized per the pump 
instructions; this is to protect the pump from overheat/fire in case the shaft 
or impeller seizes.

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On May 26, 2014, at 10:54 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
wrote:

> Install a Rule Model 43 rocker switch in a convenient but out of the way 
> location.  Wire the switch's positive to one of the battery cables on the 
> back of your battery switch (not the common, the one marked #1 or #2) and the 
> negative to ground (for the indicator light).  By connecting to the #1 or #2 
> connection, you're essentially connecting to one of the batteries.  As a 
> rule, I don't like to connect directly to a battery inside the battery box.

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Re: Stus-List First time out at the helm

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Barbara — a woman who dares (and wants) to take the boat out herself is a rare 
and valuable commodity…   :^)

Congrats on your first outing, and there’s no shame in backing a boat out of a 
precarious situation; you’d be subject to a lot more grumbling if you had hit 
someone, or gotten yourself cross-wise in a fairway.  Keep at it, and you’ll 
most likely earn the respect of all those mumblers.

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On May 27, 2014, at 7:34 PM, via CnC-List  wrote:

> Since my darling husband decided to jump ship and file for divorce, I left 
> the dock with myself at the helm just this past weekend. My brother and his 
> buddy who knows nothing about sAiling were along and I'm so glad they were. 
> Leaving the dock wAs a bit tricky since the tide and wind was against us and 
> against the Atomic 4.  We wound up backing out of the marina breakwaters 
> after fending off successfully several boats. Embarrassing? Yes but a great 
> lesson. And unfortunately upon return, there were mumblings about a "woman at 
> the helm ".   It wasn't pretty  but there was no damage. 
> Barbara Hickson Fellers 

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Re: Stus-List List water pump repair

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Bill — if you can find the pressure switch assembly, carefully remove it and 
look for a small orifice or hole on the flat face of the switch that threads 
into the pump body.  That hole can get plugged by particulates that settle out 
of the water.  Try cleaning it carefully with a toothpick or pin.  If you find 
the orifice is clear, the pressure switch probably needs to be replaced.

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On May 28, 2014, at 9:41 PM, Wwadjourn via CnC-List  
wrote:

> 
> Anyone know how to troubleshoot PAR diaphragm pump that pumps great but will 
> not shut off when reaches pressure.  Just keeps on grinding.  There is NO air 
> in system.  with faucets open pumps great, great pressure, but when shut 
> faucets it won't reach pressure and stop.  Is there a setting for pressure?  
> Was working fine this spring, now not.
> Bill Walker
> CnC 36
> Pentwater, Mi
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Re: Stus-List 2012 Annapolis Bermuda Race C&C 37

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

As much as I’d like to meet you, I hope it doesn’t take us THAT long to get 
there…   :^)

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On Jun 1, 2014, at 7:10 PM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List  
wrote:

> I may be passing through St G in three weeks if you're still there, I'll look 
> you up.

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Re: Stus-List AC wiring

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Tom — this means that the ground (green wire) and neutral (white wire) are tied 
together somewhere in your AC system.  You’ll need to trace the wiring 
throughout the AC system and see if they’ve been tied together somewhere.  You 
can try disconnecting AC-powered gear (shorepower charger, water heater, etc) 
completely and rechecking the resistance between the green and white wires of 
the system to see if anything changes.  Obviously, you’ll want to disconnect 
from shorepower first (!), and make sure any inverter you might have onboard is 
completely disconnected from the DC system first.

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On Jun 2, 2014, at 1:46 PM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List  
wrote:

> I received the following email from our club regarding our AC electric.  Any 
> C&C listers able to elucidate as to what this means and what you would 
> anticipate it will take to correct?
> 
>> Tom,
>>  
>> I have been doing electrical tests on new boats in QYC docks recently. In 
>> reviewing the records of previously tested boats I noticed an anomoly in the 
>> recorded results of one of the tests that was done on Alera. Apparently, I 
>> overlooked or ignored this when I tested Alera. 
>>  
>> One of the measurements recorded indicates a very low resistance (20 ohms) 
>> from your AC plug neutral wire to the AC plug ground wire. All the other 
>> measurements were high resistance and OK. This low resistance would indicate 
>> that your boat's AC system has the neutral wire connected to AC ground 
>> somewhere. While this is normal in home wiring it is not standard on boats. 
>> It creates a shock hazard. It is against ABYC standards for small boat 120 
>> VAC, 30 A systems.
>>  
>> I highly recommend that you have this looked into and corrected. I would be 
>> happy to help you checking this out if you want to deal with it yourself.
>>  
>> J
> 
> thx
> Tom Buscaglia
> SV Alera
> C&C 37+/40
> Vashon Island WA
> 

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Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 101, Issue 6

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Keep in mind the corrosion that’s common on our older boats, 20 ohms might not 
be out of the realm of possibility...

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On Jun 2, 2014, at 2:50 PM, Michael Brown via CnC-List  
wrote:

> A normal measurement if neutral and
> ground were connected together even with a 50' boat cord set would be more 
> like
> 0.5 ohms.

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Re: Stus-List Annapolis to Bermuda Race nearing finish

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Steve’s keel/centerboard arrangement was perfect for this light air race; he 
was able to smoke almost everyone through the Chesapeake, and he even caught up 
with many of the Class 1 and 2 boats.  Kinda depressing that it took us almost 
three days to get out of the Bay…

Also, we were one of several boats (mostly Class 1) that paid for and attending 
a weather briefing by Jennifer Clark.  The Office was the only boat in the 
briefing that following the weather routing.  We actually did make up some time 
once we were out of the Chesapeake, but by then, it was a bit late.


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On Jun 12, 2014, at 8:55 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
wrote:

> Looks like Steve Sharkey's Impromptu may finish first in PHRF-3 class.  He's 
> about 70 miles out and leads the next boats by about 12 miles.  Hard to tell 
> but he looks pretty good for corrected time also.
> 
> http://www.bermudaoceanrace.com/race-overview/2014tracker
> 
> Joel needs some breeze to catch up.
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
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Re: Stus-List C&C 38mkIII

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

How about considering a Landfall 38?  Pretty much the same hull, but only draws 
4’-11” on a longer keel.  Mine points like a witch, too…   :^)

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

FINALLY getting launched tomorrow…   :^)


On Jun 19, 2014, at 10:51 AM, Jerome Tauber via CnC-List 
 wrote:

> I've owned a C&C 24 and 29mkII and now own a 27mkV.  A friend and I are 
> considering partnering on a 38mkIII.  The 7.5 foot draft may be good in the 
> Mariana Trench but not in my harbor. (3 mile Harbor ).   Has anyone had any 
> experience with the shoal keel version which I think gives the boat a. 6'4" 
> draft ( still problematic).  How does it point.  How many points does it gain 
> in PHRF.   Any other comments appreciated.  Jerry

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Re: Stus-List hull number distinction between 38 and Landfall 38

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Paul — as far as I know, the LF’s were all built in Rhode Island.  And the hull 
differences lie primarily in the keel design; while the original 38 has a deep 
fin keel, the LF38 has a shallower-draft, but longer, keel.  The 38’s draw 
between 6’-1” and 7’-7”, while the LF38 draws 4’-11”.

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

FINALLY launched!!!

On Jun 21, 2014, at 10:40 AM, PME via CnC-List  wrote:

> Hi,
> 
> When I first purchased my LF38 I was a bit surprised with the CCY hull number 
> as I thought I read somewhere that the Landfalls were build in Canada.   I 
> know that the LF38 shares the same hull as the 38, but what in the hull id 
> distinguishes a LF38 from a 38?   I have always assumed that my hull number 
> 88 was that out of the LF38's only.   
> 
> I am guessing that all LF38's are build in the USA and all 38’s are built in 
> Canada and as such the later would have ZCC hull id.   is this correct?   
> 
> 
> Here is my LF38 hull id: CCY38088M81D
> 
> CCY:  C&C built in Rhode Island
> 38:   model length (but FL title list 37’)
> 088:  hull # 088
> M:model year format
> 81:   model year 1981
> D:built in November
> 
> 
> -
> Paul E.
> 1981 C&C Landfall 38
> S/V Johanna Rose
> Carrabelle, FL
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Re: Stus-List getting seasick

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

The couple of times I’ve been sick, the Stugeron worked well — even AFTER the 
onset of symptoms.  Your mileage may vary; and know that it’s NOT approved for 
use in the U.S.  But widely available in most of the rest of the world.  And 
online via canadianpharmacyonline.com…

As a disclaimer, I’m not a physician (although the Admiral is).  I’m not 
advocating this for everyone.  I’m just passing on personal experience… check 
with your doctor before dosing yourself with anything.

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

On Jun 23, 2014, at 1:49 PM, Indigo via CnC-List  wrote:

> I am soon to depart for Bermuda to help bring a J/133 home. I can be prone to 
> seasickness especially if I am down below trying to navigate / read etc in 
> poor conditions. I had heard before about the "three day ahead" dosing trick 
> so will be taking Stugeron from Thursday onwards. Unfortunately Stugeron is 
> not available in the States (I get mine brought over from the UK)
> 
> --
> Jonathan
> Indigo C&C 35III
> SOUTHPORT CT

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Re: Stus-List Aluminum coating

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

A powder coating guy I spoke with a few years back told me that powder-coating 
wasn't recommended for aluminum castings, as the heat used to bake on the 
powder could cause the casting to fracture.

Frederick G Street
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38)
Bayfield, WI

> On Jun 29, 2014, at 9:47 PM, Brad Crawford via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Do you think it would work well on a black pedestal?  Mine has been eroding 
> away in a few spots over the years.  Might be best to remove the pedestal and 
> have the whole thing powder coated, but maybe the zinc chromate primer and 
> black paint might get me by for a few year?  What do you think?  Anyone have 
> any luck with painting over the cancer while still on the boat?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Brad
> CnC 36
> "Dora Pearl"
> Seattle
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> 
>> On Jun 29, 2014, at 3:45 PM, Jake Brodersen via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> Tom,
>> 
>> I've used zinc chromate primer and black spray paint.  It has held up well.
>> The primer has a tenacious hold, while the black spray paint may need a
>> touch up after a couple of years.  Overall, I'd say it works well.
>> 
>> Jake
>> 
>> 
>> Jake Brodersen
>> "Midnight Mistress"
>> C&C 35 Mk-III
>> Hampton Va
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> -Original Message-
>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Tom
>> Buscaglia via CnC-List
>> Sent: Sunday, June 29, 2014 12:27 PM
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Subject: Stus-List Aluminum coating
>> 
>> The black coating on the stanchion bases along the rail on Alera have flaked
>> off in a few spots.  I bet someone here has dealt with this issue...
>> 
>> Tom Buscaglia
>> S/V Arera 
>> 1990 C&C 37+/40
>> Vashon WA
>> P 206.463.9200
>> 
>> 
>> 
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>> 
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>> 
> 
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Re: Stus-List FleaBay scores - anyone get anything good lately?

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Rich — before you order, let me price it for you.  I’ve been looking at getting 
the same system.

— Fred


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

On Jul 10, 2014, at 9:43 AM, Rich Knowles via CnC-List  
wrote:

> I got a Raytheon ST50 wind instrument that is ok but does not have the 
> true/relative switch that my old dead one had. Saved a bunch, but I'm now 
> going to install new Raymarine gear. It works so much better and does a lot 
> more. The i70 multi and an Itc-5 converter box will allow me to use all my 
> existing transducers and get wind, speed, depth and nab info on the one 
> instrument. A mere zillion bucks. 
> 
> Rich Knowles
> Indigo. LF38
> Halifax. NS

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Re: Stus-List FleaBay scores - anyone get anything good lately?

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

And I might still have an ST60 display or two (even a Multi?) around, if that 
would help.

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

On Jul 10, 2014, at 11:31 AM, Rich Knowles via CnC-List  
wrote:

> I'm told it'll work. If it doesn't, I'll just have to swap the MHU. Cable and 
> connections are the same. I'll probably get annoyed too
> 
> Rich
> 
> On Jul 10, 2014, at 13:25, Michael Brown via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
>> I thought the ITC-5 was compatible with most stuff but not the ST50 MHU.
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Re: Stus-List bonding strap question

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Skip — there’s no reason to use braid over the usual insulated large-gauge 
stranded cable.  I’ve got all crimp terminals from 8AWG to 4/0, in terminal 
sizes from #10 to 3/8”, as well as the proper compound crimper needed to do 
those large lugs; if you’d like, I could do up a heavy grounding wire for you.  
4AWG green cable should be okay for the mast; I may actually have some of that 
around, depending on the length you need.  And for the engine, if it’s just 
bonding (NOT the main DC system ground), 4AWG should be okay there, too.  If 
you need a main DC ground, I’d probably go bigger than 4AWG; maybe 2/0 to 
account for engine cranking current.

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

On Jul 13, 2014, at 7:52 AM, Burt Stratton via CnC-List  
wrote:

> I am in need of a bonding conductor for both my engine block and mast. Engine 
> block strap is corroded to the point of dust. Mast strap is missing.
>  
> The boat contains braided tinned copper straps with nice big ring ends to fit 
> over the keel bolts. I have been able to find braided flat straps but no 
> termination hardware. Does anyone here have experience with that? I have lots 
> of experience terminating standard stranded wire but never braided straps. Is 
> there a source for purchasing pre-terminated straps of varying length?
>  
> Skip
> 1974 C&C 33 ¾ ton
> Portsmouth, RI
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Re: Stus-List bonding strap question

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Actually, there’s a reason to NOT use braid; from the ABYC bonding standard:

> The common bonding conductor shall be uninsulated copper or bronze strip, 
> copper tubing, bare tinned-copper wire or insulated copper wire of the proper 
> gauge. Copper braid shall not be used for this purpose.
> 
> (a) Common Bonding conductors fabricated from copper or bronze strip shall 
> have a minimum thickness of 1/32 inch and be no less than 1/2 inch in width.
> 
> (b) Wire, where used as the common bonding conductor, shall be at least no. 8 
> AWG.
> 
> Note: These requirements are based on both physical strength and the ability 
> to make alld maintain low-resistance connections, as well as current ratings.

So 8AWG would be okay for bonding; UNLESS it’s part of a lightning protection 
system.  Then 4AWG is recommended.


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

On Jul 13, 2014, at 8:59 AM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
 wrote:

> Skip — there’s no reason to use braid over the usual insulated large-gauge 
> stranded cable.  I’ve got all crimp terminals from 8AWG to 4/0, in terminal 
> sizes from #10 to 3/8”, as well as the proper compound crimper needed to do 
> those large lugs; if you’d like, I could do up a heavy grounding wire for 
> you.  4AWG green cable should be okay for the mast; I may actually have some 
> of that around, depending on the length you need.  And for the engine, if 
> it’s just bonding (NOT the main DC system ground), 4AWG should be okay there, 
> too.  If you need a main DC ground, I’d probably go bigger than 4AWG; maybe 
> 2/0 to account for engine cranking current.
> 
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
> 
> On Jul 13, 2014, at 7:52 AM, Burt Stratton via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
>> I am in need of a bonding conductor for both my engine block and mast. 
>> Engine block strap is corroded to the point of dust. Mast strap is missing.
>>  
>> The boat contains braided tinned copper straps with nice big ring ends to 
>> fit over the keel bolts. I have been able to find braided flat straps but no 
>> termination hardware. Does anyone here have experience with that? I have 
>> lots of experience terminating standard stranded wire but never braided 
>> straps. Is there a source for purchasing pre-terminated straps of varying 
>> length?
>>  
>> Skip
>> 1974 C&C 33 ¾ ton
>> Portsmouth, RI
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Re: Stus-List dual ownership?

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Which is common with aircraft — dual ownership, or one owner taking it to South 
America?   :^)

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

On Jul 14, 2014, at 9:30 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
 wrote:

> I know of a dual-owned C&C that was taken to South America by one owner 
> without the permission of the other. Just sayin…
> BTW, this type of thing is very common with aircraft.
>  
> Joe Della Barba
> Coquina C&C 35 MK I

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Re: Stus-List bonding strap question

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Skip — one other note from the ABYC standard:

> Note: the bonding wire (or cables) to the engine(s} must be large enough to 
> cany cranking current, because a break in the cranking circuit could cause 
> the cranking current to flow in an alternate path (such as fuel lines).
> 

Sorry — I neglected that one before.  It’s been several years since I was 
ABYC-certified.


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI



On Jul 13, 2014, at 8:59 AM, Frederick G Street  wrote:

> Skip — there’s no reason to use braid over the usual insulated large-gauge 
> stranded cable.  I’ve got all crimp terminals from 8AWG to 4/0, in terminal 
> sizes from #10 to 3/8”, as well as the proper compound crimper needed to do 
> those large lugs; if you’d like, I could do up a heavy grounding wire for 
> you.  4AWG green cable should be okay for the mast; I may actually have some 
> of that around, depending on the length you need.  And for the engine, if 
> it’s just bonding (NOT the main DC system ground), 4AWG should be okay there, 
> too.  If you need a main DC ground, I’d probably go bigger than 4AWG; maybe 
> 2/0 to account for engine cranking current.
> 
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
> 
> On Jul 13, 2014, at 7:52 AM, Burt Stratton via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
>> I am in need of a bonding conductor for both my engine block and mast. 
>> Engine block strap is corroded to the point of dust. Mast strap is missing.
>>  
>> The boat contains braided tinned copper straps with nice big ring ends to 
>> fit over the keel bolts. I have been able to find braided flat straps but no 
>> termination hardware. Does anyone here have experience with that? I have 
>> lots of experience terminating standard stranded wire but never braided 
>> straps. Is there a source for purchasing pre-terminated straps of varying 
>> length?
>>  
>> Skip
>> 1974 C&C 33 ¾ ton
>> Portsmouth, RI

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Re: Stus-List B&G Instruments

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Jean-Francois — just to expand on this, pretty much any older transducer (and 
many of the new ones) do NOT directly output NMEA0183 or NMEA2000 data; most of 
the depth, speed and wind transducers need to be connected to a display head 
which will then convert the signals into NMEA0183, NMEA2000 or SeaTalk data.

The exceptions are the “smart” transducers from Airmar (and others; but Airmar 
makes most of the transducers for most of the manufacturers); these are capable 
of being directly connected to NMEA0183 or NMEA2000 networks.

You can also get boxes from some manufacturers that will convert the older 
transducer outputs into usable network data.  An example would be the ITC-5 
from Raymarine which takes the analog outputs of speed, wind, depth, 
temperature, fluxgate compass and rudder position transducers and converts it 
all into a SeaTalkNG data stream that can be also used in most cases on an 
NMEA2000 network.  It’s a nice (and pretty inexpensive) way to move into the 
newer data network topologies.

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

On Jul 15, 2014, at 10:23 AM, Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List 
 wrote:

> Hi Mike, 
> 
> The easiest thing would be to find out the nature of the signal is out of the 
> computers / transducers.  If it's NMEA 0183 compatible then you just get a 
> NMEA 0183 to NMEA 2000 converter (A Google search will easily get that)  If 
> not find out if there is a way to get the signal converted to NMEA 0183 then 
> you take that and convert it further to NMEA 2000. 
> 
> Once you get to NMEA 2000 than pretty much all MFD's  / chartplotters can use 
> it.  Of course you'll have some latency / refresh rate annoyances as the 
> conversion will introduce some lag in the process. 
> 
> Honestly though. It's probably worth a haul-out to pop then ancient stuff out 
> and pop-in fresh transducers. 
> 
> I had that done this spring. It was a surprisingly simple process, the new 
> masthead was pretty simple to install and speed / temp / depth transducer 
> takes just one through hull an is very accurate.  The underwater transducer 
> is the same standard size as the old one (Both made by Airmar), it was 
> basically and pop-off / pop-in job. 
> 
> I installed a pair of new B&G Triton MFD's and a Zeus chartplotter.  The 
> displays are amazingly clear  / easy to use / and full of neat features.  All 
> the above works on a standard NMEA 2000 backbone so adding other sensors  / 
> displays in the future should simply be a plug and play into the backbone 
> affair regardless of the brand.  
> 
> Good Luck, 
> 
> -Francois Rivard
> 1990 C&C 34+ "Take Five"
> Lake Lanier, Georgia
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anybody on this list use B&G H1000 series instruments?  I have these on
> my Frers 33 and the displays are sometimes difficult to read (esp at
> night and on angles) and are starting to lose some of what I call raster
> lines (for lack of proper term).  Does anyone know if there is a newer
> Multifunction display that is compatable with the behind the scenes
> computers and transducers?
> 
> Thanks Mike
> 
> Persistence
> 1987 Frers 33
> (I know - not a C&C)
> 
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cnc-list@cnc-list.com

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Joel — that’s a Landfall 43; maybe this one?

http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1983/C%26C-Landfall-43-2666345/Annapolis---Galesville/MD/United-States#.U8vjBahPZvM

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

On Jul 20, 2014, at 8:44 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List  
wrote:

> Wednesday I saw a 43 center cockpit moored in Annapolis Harbor.  First time I 
> saw a C&C center cockpit.  I think it is for sale on Yachtworld, but I know 
> nothing else about the boat.
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[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

There's a Landfall 43 in my marina asking $149k; think they'll get it?   : ^)

-- Fred

> On Jul 21, 2014, at 8:06 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Bob,
> 
> It is, and we should all hope he gets it!  I'm sure the wind generator and 
> self-sterrer cost lots of $$, but it is unlikely he will recoup those costs.
> 
> Joel
> 
> 
>> On Sun, Jul 20, 2014 at 10:00 PM, bobmor99 . via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> That's big bucks for a 30 year old C&C. Nearby, a 39 foot '84 C&C center 
>> cockpit now has an asking price of $40K. Fred, I think you noticed this one 
>> awhile ago. I have not seen it.
>> http://www.yachtworld.com/core/listing/pl_boat_detail.jsp?&units=Feet&id=2602489&lang=en&slim=broker&&hosturl=stbartsyachts&&ywo=stbartsyachts&;
>> 
>> Bob M
>> Ox 33-1
>> Jax, FL
>> 
>> 
>>> On Sun, Jul 20, 2014 at 11:41 AM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> Joel — that’s a Landfall 43; maybe this one?
>>> 
>>> http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1983/C%26C-Landfall-43-2666345/Annapolis---Galesville/MD/United-States#.U8vjBahPZvM
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>> 
>> 
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>> 
>> 
> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> Joel 
> 301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List web site update

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Andy — I can probably get you good pricing on the Hellas; and to anyone on the 
list who’s interested, I have a few of the smaller Hella Jets available cheap.

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

On Jul 21, 2014, at 3:09 PM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List  
wrote:

> Wal, which model caframo fan? I need to install a few in Peregrine and I was 
> thinking of going with the Hella Turbos, but if you like the caframo...
> Andy

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Re: Stus-List Yacht Licensing and Regisration

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Hi, Tom — welcome to the List, and congrats on the new boat!  Which boat did 
you buy?  I’ve been up in the Bayfield area for nearly 20 years now, and know 
many of the C&Cs up there.

You can either keep the MN registration, or switch to WI.  My boat has WI 
registration AND Federal documentation; documentation can make it easier to 
take your boat international, and Canada is less than 100 miles away, across 
Lake Superior.



Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

On Aug 5, 2014, at 10:31 AM, Tom Lynch via CnC-List  
wrote:

> Hi Folks, 
> 
> I have just purchased a 1985 C&C 33 MKII from a private party. The boat is 
> currently moored in Bayfield WI on Lake Superior and I intend to keep it 
> there.   It is currently registered and titled in State of MN with MN a 
> license on the bow.  I live in MN.  
> 
> Initially, I was planning to transfer the title and registration and keep it 
> registered in MN.   I'm wondering now if that is not the proper/legal thing 
> to do.   
> 
> Am I required to registered it in the State of WI where the boat resides?  
> Are there advantages to completing the US Coast Guard documentation 
> registration rather than state registration? 
> 
> Any thoughts on this would be greatly appreciated. 
> 
> Thanks 
> Tom Lynch
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Re: Stus-List Replacing Rub Rail - Landfall 35 Now Landfall 38 rub rail

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

My LF38, hull #9, has NO rubrail at all, plastic or otherwise; just the teak 
toerail sitting on top of the hull/deck joint.

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

On Aug 6, 2014, at 2:08 PM, PME via CnC-List  wrote:

> Hi,
> 
> I was a bit surprised to hear people discuss about a white rub rail on the 
> Landfall 38.  I assumed they were all teak as I have on my LF38.  That is, I 
> have an iconic LF teak toe rail which bolts through the deck along with a 
> separate teak rub rail (~ 1-1/2" x 5/8" ) which is screwed onto the bottom 
> outside of the toe rail. 
> 
> I have just looked online, and I now notice other LF38 with the white rub 
> rails, but I don't see any with a teak rub rail.   Does anyone know if the 
> teak rub rail was a factory option or was it likely a previous owner upgrade? 
>   
> 
> -
> Paul Eugenio
> 1981 C&C Landfall 38
> S/V Johanna Rose
> Carrabelle, FL

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Re: Stus-List Battery charger on 24

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Patrick — I’d stay away from non-marine battery chargers in the marine 
environment; for both safety and longevity/reliability reasons.

Something like this would probably work fine for your size boat:
http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|328|2289962|2289963&id=1512352

You could upsize to 20 amps, but that may be overkill.  Do you already have a 
shorepower system?

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

On Aug 7, 2014, at 10:07 AM, Patrick H. Wesley via CnC-List 
 wrote:

> 
> Investigating availability of "smart" or three step charger to install in 
> locker next to batteries, obviously concern is size for this type of boat, or 
> portable one. Must have auto shut-off. Any ideas? Battery guy says most car 
> type chargers only measure volts and shut off when reach the limit but you 
> then need to put it on manual and charge another four hours, which isn't 
> practical given distance house/boat. Also that real importance is amps and 
> only way to measure that is using a battery acid hygrometer.
> 
> Thanks in advance.
> 
> Patrick Wesley, Sidney BC
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Re: Stus-List Shannon 38

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Hi, Bob — the Shannons are pretty boats, for the most part well-built.  From 
the photos, this one looks like there’s been some water damage to interior 
woodwork; and the electrical system and much of the electronics are very dated. 
 And they’re not going to sail anything like a C&C.

Pretty high price for a 70’s boat.  I imagine it’ll sell for less...

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

On Aug 12, 2014, at 7:23 PM, bobmor99 . via CnC-List  
wrote:

> I've been an 8-9 year consumer of Stu's List wisdom - mostly contributing 
> questions and an occasional opinion. I'm curious what people think of the 
> Shannon 38, referenced below, as a retirement boat for bumping up and down 
> the US East Coast. I realize it's not a C&C but the opinions of many on the 
> list are held in high regard. The dismasting and repair are of special 
> interest.
> 
> http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1978/Shannon-staysail-Cutter-2644578/Shelter-Island/NY/United-States#.U-qVSONdWSo
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Bob M
> Ox 33-1
> Jax, FL
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Re: Stus-List Shannon 38

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

On Aug 13, 2014, at 1:10 PM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List  
wrote:

> But I sail on a lake ;)

I do, too.


Mine’s bigger…   :^)


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI___
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Re: Stus-List Bow Thrusters

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Edd just wants to be able to call out, “Helmsman: maneuvering thrusters to 
leave Spacedock”…   :^)

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

> On Sep 28, 2015, at 7:14 AM, Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Some people retire from sailing, or buy a trawler prematurely, because they 
> eschewed equipping their boat with whatever was needed to make it less 
> physically demanding to sail. Luddites be damned! There are plenty of sailors 
> who will tell you that a GPS and RADAR are wastes of money, too. 
> 
> Bill Bina
> 
> On 9/27/2015 2:56 PM, John Pennie via CnC-List wrote:
>> Ed:
>> 
>> I sailed/lived aboard a 51 for many years.  Everyone thought we were crazy 
>> when we removed the bow thruster (it didn’t work anyway).  I can say I never 
>> missed it.  They do add some drag - probably not as much as you would 
>> expect.  I would think a pod hanging down would be worse.  Nevertheless,I 
>> just don’t see the need and I sail in the same area as you.  It sounds 
>> strange, but my experience has been the tighter the slip the easier it is to 
>> get into. There just isn’t as much room to screw up!  Yes, there has been 
>> the rare occasion where it would have been helpful coming in.  Leaving a 
>> dock it serves no purpose as god invented spring lines.  To me, the 
>> complexity of the systems, to say nothing of the cost, just isn’t justified. 
>>  I
>> 
>> My opinion would be just say no…
>> 
>> Of course, it’s your money and you should spend it however you damn well 
>> want to.
>> 
>> John

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Re: Stus-List boat closing!

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Danny — very nice!  Yes, some work to be done; but it wouldn’t be a boat 
without that…   :^)

I love the separate shower.

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

> On Sep 28, 2015, at 8:23 AM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> HI Fred,
>  
> I uploaded some photos, in no particular order, of the new boat if anyone 
> would like a peak!
>  
> One of the details I like, that the PO ordered from the factory, was that he 
> did away with the teak toe rails for an aluminum angle toe rail.  minimal 
> exterior teak to maitain!
>  
> You can really see the need for a paint-job in some of the photos...
>  
> http://1drv.ms/1MATBD3 
>  
> Danny
> 1985 Tartan 40
> Still Vagabond

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Re: Stus-List Recommendations Please...

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Not quite by itself; the Landfall 38 is right in there, too, as I recall (along 
with the LF42, 43 and the 41): http://cncphotoalbum.com/technical/stability.htm 


— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

> On Sep 28, 2015, at 2:48 PM, Gary Nylander via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Agreed. Somewhere in the archives there is a Dallenbach chart which shows the 
> relative 'stiffness' of most of the early C&C's. It would be pretty useful in 
> this selection. And the 30-1 is by itself.
>  
> Gary
> 30-1 #593

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Stus-List Raymarine Lighthouse II R15 software update

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

I just got word from Raymarine that they’ve issued a new update to the 
Lighthouse II operating system:

http://www.raymarine.eu/view/?id=8291 

They’re adding some nice AIS features, as well as the ability to do future 
software updates on MFDs (as well as autopilots, instruments, etc that are on 
the network) via WiFi.

— Fred


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

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Re: Stus-List Raymarine Chartplotter

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

It’s a bit confusing — you need to watch upper- and lower-case when you talk 
about the Raymarine products.  The E80, along with the other E Series and all 
of the older C Series, use an older operating system.  This update does NOT 
apply.

This update is for the newer a Series, c Series, e Series, eS Series and gS 
Series MFDs.  These would include Joel’s e7, along with my a75, the a95, etc.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

> On Sep 30, 2015, at 10:55 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Ted,
> 
> I have an E7.  Don't know what the E80 will do.
> 
> Joel
> 
> On Tue, Sep 29, 2015 at 11:10 PM, Ted Drossos via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> Joel, which Raymarine chart plotter do you have that will show laylines? I've 
> got an older Raymarine e80. Do you know if a software upgrade on this unit 
> will provide layline information?
> 
> Ted Drossos
> Long Island NY
> C&C 110
> Lady in Red

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Re: Stus-List Photo album ads & other stuff

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Rick — is that Bayfield, Wisconsin, or Bayfield, Ontario?  I’m not familiar 
with Mark, but I can check around this weekend.

Haulout tomorrow…   :^(

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

> On Oct 8, 2015, at 9:10 AM, Rick Brass via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Stu, I’d appreciate contacting Mark Janda as well. James’ message prompted me 
> to look at the Photo Album ads for the first time in a while, and I see a 
> couple of items for my 38 that I could probably use. I tore up my RF 140 a 
> couple of weeks ago, and I see that he has two for sale. Plus I see a propane 
> locker, which it what I need to make the switch from the alcohol stove on my 
> boat to propane.
>  
> Fred, the ads say he is parting out a 38 in the Bayfield area. Any chance you 
> know him and can get him to contact James and me?

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Re: Stus-List Autopilot Recommendations

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Doug — sorry for the delay; it’s haulout weekend.  Yes, on any Raymarine 
autopilot systems older than the current EVO systems, you really need to have 
the rudder reference transducer installed and calibrated to get decent 
performance out of the system.

You should have gotten a transducer along with the X10 system; I’ve got one 
around somewhere if you don’t find yours.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Oct 9, 2015, at 9:33 PM, svpegasu...@gmail.com via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I had to get auto pilot because my cat refuses to take the helm. So I got the 
> Raymarine X10 with linear drive and a St70 control head. Thinking I should 
> add a rudder transducer... am thinking this will lessen the constant 
> adjustments from the pilot. What is your opinion Fred? 
> 
> Doug Mountjoy
> svPegasus
> LF38 
> just west of Ballard, WA.

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Re: Stus-List Autopilot Recommendations

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Bill — the older ST4000 wheelpilot does not use a rudder reference transducer; 
but the newer ST4000+ does.  It should have shipped with one.  They are 
available as a standalone part, for about $250 plus shipping.  As I mentioned 
before, I have a spare here somewhere; if anyone is interested, the first $150 
plus $15 to ship takes it.  This is brand new in the box.

As far as installation goes, that’s definitely the hardest part.  As each boat 
may be a bit different, and I’m not familiar with the 36’s steering system and 
accessibility, I can’t give you an exact idea.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Oct 11, 2015, at 8:37 AM, William Walker via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Fred,
>   I guess this goes for st4000 wheel pilots too?  Are there any available for 
> these and how tough an install.  
> Bill Walker
> CnC 36
> Pentwater, Mi
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Re: Stus-List Autopilot Recommendations

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

See my reply to Bill.


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Oct 11, 2015, at 10:36 AM, svpegasu...@gmail.com via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Fred, I never got the transducer with my system. If you have one I would be 
> more than happy to buy it off you. 
> 
> Doug Mountjoy
> svPegasus
> LF38
> just west of Ballard, WA
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Re: Stus-List Autopilot Recommendations

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Typically the tiller pilots never had them; if you think about it, if you have 
tiller steering, you don’t have a quadrant to attach the transducer to.  And 
the older wheelpilots just used a fluxgate compass to steer to.  But the 
results weren’t always as good as they could be, so the ST4000+ added the 
transducer (which has pretty much always been a part of the below-deck pilot 
installations) to improve its performance, particularly downwind (which is 
problematic for many pilots).

The new Raymarine EVO pilot systems still use the transducer; but Raymarine 
says it’s “recommended”, not necessary.  According to the EV install manual:

> The connection of a rudder reference unit is highly recommended, to help 
> ensure optimum autopilot performance...
> 
> Certain environmental conditions such as a cross-current can cause the 
> autopilot system to steer persistently to port or starboard, even when the 
> rudder is centered.  With a rudder reference unit connected to your autopilot 
> system, you can use an autopilot control head to specify an offset angle in 
> +/– degrees to compensate for inaccurate rudder angle information caused by 
> such conditions.
> 
> The more accurate the rudder angle information, the more accurately the 
> autopilot system can keep to a correct course.

And for Pete Shelquist, even Garmin offers it as an option:

> Add Even More Peace of Mind
> Add an optional GRF 10 rudder feedback sensor and you can further enhance the 
> performance of your GHP Reactor autopilot with SmartPump.

:^)

— Fred


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(



> On Oct 11, 2015, at 11:06 AM, Rick Brass via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> From all the comments over the past few years I know that David’s comment is 
> true. But I have always wondered “WHY?”. What changed to make the rudder 
> position sensor essential?
>  
> Over the years I’ve had an Autohelm tillerpilot (800 I think) on a 27 and a 
> Raymarine 1000 tillerpilot on my 25 with tiller steering. A Raymarine 3000 
> belt driven wheel pilot. And there is a Navico 5000 wheel pilot on my 38 (I’m 
> sure it isn’t older than dirt, but it is almost older than plastic). None of 
> these has a wheel sensor – relying only on heading information from the 
> fluxgate compass built into them to steer the boat. All of them worked well. 
>  
> The Navico took a bit of adjustment to the settings to optimize performance 
> (I suspect the PO had never set it up since the wheel lock to lock setting 
> was the default and not the proper number for the boat), but once set up the 
> wheelpilot will steer the boat for miles and miles without a variance from 
> the desired heading of over a degree or two.
>  
> So what has changed with the newer autopilots to make the rudder position 
> sensor so important?
>  
> Rick Brass
> Imzadi  C&C 38 mk 2
> la Belle Aurore C&C 25 mk1
> Washington, NC

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Re: Stus-List Isotemp SPA water heater in a LF38

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Paul — the Isotemp water heaters in general have an excellent reputation.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Oct 16, 2015, at 6:46 AM, Dreuge via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Hi,
> 
> Does anyone have any bad experiences with Isotemp SPA water heaters?  I can’t 
> find any reviews regarding the SPA line of heaters online.  I am planning on 
> installing either the SPA 25 (6.5 gal) or the SPA 30 (8 gal) on a LF38.
> For some reason, the price only differs by $9, but my main consideration will 
> be space restrictions.  
> 
>  I plan to locate the water heater either in the usual location, starboard of 
> the engine, or low in the old starboard berth, which is now halfway converted 
> into a nav station. 
> 
> 
> As always any comments are truly welcomed.
> 
> -
> Paul E.
> 1981 C&C 38 Landfall 
> S/V Johanna Rose
> Carrabelle, FL
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Re: Stus-List Placement of autopilot control head?

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Graham brings up a good point: with the newer Raymarine MFDs, you can control a 
properly-networked autopilot right from the screen, which makes a nice backup 
to the control head.  You really NEED to have reliable control of the pilot at 
the wheel, in my opinion.

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Oct 17, 2015, at 8:49 AM, Graham Collins via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I've got my p70 on the right side of the companionway - otherwise I would 
> have an empty hole, or would have to buy another multifunction display.  I've 
> got an a75 at the wheel pedestal (thanks Fred!) and that can activate and 
> tweak the pilot settings, so I can control it either place.  The setup works 
> well.
> Graham Collins
> Secret Plans
> C&C 35-III #11

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Re: Stus-List Placement of autopilot control head?

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Allen — by newer, I mean the e series, the c Series, the a Series and the eS 
Series.  Your "Classic E” MFD doesn’t have the autopilot functionality that the 
newer ones have.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Oct 17, 2015, at 12:45 PM, allen via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Fred,
>  
> How new is newer?  I have an E120.
>  
> Allen Miles
> Septima
> Hampton, VA
> 
> From: Frederick G Street via CnC-List <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Sent: Saturday, October 17, 2015 9:54 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Cc: Frederick G Street <mailto:f...@postaudio.net>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Placement of autopilot control head?
> 
> Graham brings up a good point: with the newer Raymarine MFDs, you can control 
> a properly-networked autopilot right from the screen, which makes a nice 
> backup to the control head.  You really NEED to have reliable control of the 
> pilot at the wheel, in my opinion.
> 
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

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Re: Stus-List : Re: Placement of autopilot control head?

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Dave — the only way I know of controlling a Raymarine autopilot on an iPad or 
similar WiFi-connected device is to use the Ray Control app through a Raymarine 
WiFi-capable MFD, with the autopilot control enabled.  The smallest 
(least-expensive) MFD you could use would be the 5.7” a68 for well under $1000 
USD.

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Oct 18, 2015, at 4:24 PM, Syerdave--- via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Placement of autopilot control head? 
> 
> Thanks all for the great input on this.   Runs the gamut and validates my own 
> conflicting ideas.  certainly though:
> 
> One needs to be able to control autopilot from the helm, and it's a  bonus to 
> be able to control from forward of the helm.
> It appears as though one needs a raymarine mfd to do this, something I had 
> hoped to avoid. (B-o-a-t and obsolete in 3 yrs) 
> 
> Wireless remotes and iPads have been mentioned - in order to operate the p70 
> wirelessly, does one need the ray MFD with wifi capability, or does remote 
> operation work with nmea wifi multiplexers or other wifi routers?   (Would 
> assume this is all proprietary, knowing Ray). None of this is clear in the 
> searching I have done.  
> 
> When using an iPad with the ray mfd, do you have full control of the 
> autopilot?   I have read that control options are limited for safety reasons. 
>  
> 
> Reason I ask all this is that I'm trying to keep my install very clean - no 
> pods or permanent chartplotter at helm.   Ideally the i70 and p70 on the 
> bulkhead by the companionway, filling the two existing holes.   Chartplotter 
> etc at helm (or anywhere else) wirelessly via tablet on RAM mount.  Wireless 
> was to be supplied by a generic nmea 2000 router.   Ideally
> 
> Looks like a smaller mfd at helm might be the best primary solution anyway, 
> provided it can fully control the autopilot.   no wifi issues, and no worry 
> about having to recharge the tablet.  That said, the 3rd party software and 
> interoperability seems to be improving daily.
> 
> Dave

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Re: Stus-List Sale Tools

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

If it seems too good to be true...

http://www.scamadviser.com/check-website/sale-tools.com

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Oct 19, 2015, at 8:58 AM, Tim Goodyear via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Wow - that is a great price.  I have Raymarine speed / depth on my new boat 
> (no wind instrument at all), a Garmin plotter and Furuno radar.  It would be 
> worth replacing the speed / depth to get a modern package that integrates 
> natively with the plotter at that price.  Please let me know what you find 
> about the vendor.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Tim
> Mojito
> C&C 35-3
> Branford, CT
> 
> On Mon, Oct 19, 2015 at 9:19 AM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> I'm actually considering this:
> http://www.sale-tools.com/products/Garmin-Ultimate-Sailing-Bundle-GWS%252dDST800%252d3-GMI.html
>  
> 
> 
> My concern is just the reputation of the vendor, not so much the product.
> 
> Cheers,
> Steve
> Suhana, C&C 32
> Toronto/Midland

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Re: Stus-List Sale Tools

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Ha!  I recently had to suggest to a lister to get a wheelpilot from Defender; 
for some reason, the sale price they were running was actually over $100 below 
my wholesale cost from my vendor.  Volume purchasing does have its advantages… 
the rest of the time, I can beat their pricing.

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Oct 19, 2015, at 5:17 PM, Graham Collins via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> How about "If they can beat Fred's price..."
> Graham Collins
> Secret Plans
> C&C 35-III #11
> On 2015-10-19 11:35 AM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List wrote:
>> If it seems too good to be true...
>> 
>> http://www.scamadviser.com/check-website/sale-tools.com 
>> <http://www.scamadviser.com/check-website/sale-tools.com>
>> 
>> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
>> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

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Re: Stus-List Replacing Windows

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Gary — I’m going to be replacing the fixed windows on my LF38 over the winter.  
I’ve done the Plexus thing twice now (previous boat); this time, I’m going to 
try the VHB tape with Dow 795 approach, like Paul did on Johanna Rose: 
http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/search/label/NewPorts.

I’ll be using 3/8” bronze acrylic with a chamfer to the outside edge.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Oct 21, 2015, at 12:45 PM, Gary Russell via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hi Paul,
>  I agree that 1/4" is too thin.  The other 37+ at my club has 5/16"  It 
> amazes me that people with no marine design experience would change the 
> design.  I plan to go with 3/8" acrylic.  But then again...
> 
> The problem with Lexan (which is a polycarbonate) is that it is less 
> scratch resistant than Plexiglas (acrylic).  You are probably trading one 
> problem for another.
> 
>  As for Plexus vs Silka 295, I am really torn.  The write-up in the Photo 
> Album suggest that Plexus will be flexible enough if (big if) the bond 
> thickness is large enough.  To that end he added glass beads to the adhesive 
> to make sure the bond thickness didn't get thinner than 0.030".
> 
>  Thoughts, anyone?
> 
> Gary
> S/V High Maintenance
> '90 C&C 37 Plus
> East Greenwich, RI, USA

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Re: Stus-List Strengths of Various Adhesives

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

From this, it sure looks like Plexus is the best structural option; 5200 would 
be next, but it’s not compatible with acrylic.  I’m surprised that LifeSeal 
shows such good characteristics.  VHB tape, 4200 and Sika are all in about the 
same range.  Looking at a cut sheet for Dow 795 (which you didn’t include here, 
but has been used with VHB tape), it’s not really providing much in the way of 
strength, with a >21 days cure tension adhesion strength of 45psi.

I thought the Dow 795 had greater structural characteristics than the cut sheet 
shows: http://www.dowcorning.com/DataFiles/090276fe801a7bbe.pdf

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Oct 21, 2015, at 3:40 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I did a bit of quick research on adhesives.  My quick look and the 
> terminology may lead to inaccuracies.  I am not a materials engineer.  For 
> instance, shear strength numbers were either listed as shear strength or lap 
> shear strength, then there is dynamic vs static whatever.  Please take the 
> info with a LARGE grain of salt.
> 
> I listed the references so you can look them up yourself.
> 
> This may interest some.
> 
> Material
> 
> Static or Lap Shear strength, psi
> 
> Tensile strength, psi
> 
> Reference
> 
>  
>  
>  
>  
> Plexus MA530
> 
> 1600-2200
> 
> 3000-3500
> 
> http://www.rshughes.com/p/Plexus-MA530-Black-Methacrylate-Adhesive-50-Gal-Drum-Shear-Strength-1600-To-2200-Psi-Tensile-Strength-3000-To-3500-Psi/plexus_it206/
>  
> 
> Sika 
> 
> n/a
> 
> 160
> 
> https://www.google.com/search?q=sika+295uv+shear+strength&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8 
> 
> 3M 5200
> 
> 360 (fiberglass)
> 
> 630-705
> 
> http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/158782O/adhesive-sealant-5200-tech-data.pdf
>  
> 
> 3M 4200
> 
> 20-165
> 
> 180
> 
> http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/891179O/3m-marine-fast-cure-general-purpose-adhesive-sealant-4200fc.pdf
>  
> 
> LifeSeal
> 
> 240
> 
> 290
> 
> http://www.boatlife.com/content/NEED%20LifeSealR%20POLYURETHANE-SILICONE%20SEALANT.pdf
>  
> 
> 3M VHB tape 59XX
> 
> 1000
> 
> 90-100
> 
> https://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/67100O/3mtm-vhb-tapes.pdf 
> 
> Dennis C.

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Re: Stus-List Strengths of Various Adhesives

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Based on the data, it sounds like VHB with LifeSeal would be a great 
combination (four times stronger than with Dow 795).  Has anyone tried that 
yet?  Or am I going to be the first guinea pig?   :^)

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Oct 21, 2015, at 7:18 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> LifeSeal is my "go to" sealant.  Haven't used 4200 (polyurethane) or silicone 
> in months. 
> 
> Dennis C.

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Re: Stus-List Vinyl letters - experiences?

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

I may be biased, living in the land of 3M here, but their vinyl and automotive 
marking products are pretty hard to beat.  I was also going to suggest checking 
with the vinyl company to make sure you could get 3M marking products.  The 
name on my transom has lasted for twelve years now, and still looks new.

Edd, I’d still suggest vinyl over paint — just make sure to get the good stuff.

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Oct 22, 2015, at 11:58 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Dennis, 
> 
> Talk to the sign company.  Mine quoted a 3M film and gave UV spec, thickness, 
> and warranty period.  Different products and product lines have different 
> longevity.  My black letters were a 12 year guarantee but some have failed in 
> the first season.
> 
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD 
> 
> On Oct 22, 2015 12:25 PM, "Dennis C. via CnC-List"  > wrote:
> Speaking of vinyl letters, I believe there is a difference in quality and 
> service life of vinyl letters depending on suppliers.  
> 
> The first decal I had on Touche' looked good for over ten years.  I removed 
> it to repaint the topsides.  I have also had several iterations of the 
> Touche' logo on the side windows of my SUV's.  
> 
> The first set of decals was made by a local sign company.  This company does 
> the local police and sheriff's vehicles.  The last few I had made at one of 
> the nationwide quickie sign companies.
> 
> IMO, the decal made by the local company seemed to last longer. 
> 
> I'm considering using BoatUS or going back to the local sign company for the 
> next set of decals. I have the logo digitally in several common formats so I 
> can deal with most suppliers.
> 
> Anybody got any light to shed on this subject?
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA

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Re: Stus-List Anti-fouling paint -> devolving the basal plates

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Rick -- you mean "MSDS", right?   :^)

Frederick G Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Oct 23, 2015, at 7:35 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> You might also look up the MMSI for Barnacle Buster and see what the active 
> ingredient is

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Re: Stus-List outboard size

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Mike — as long as you’re not expecting to plane or work into heavy swells, I 
think a 2.2hp would be a good fit.  Much more portable than my 6hp Mercury on 
my 9.2’ Seaworthy  dinghy.

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Oct 26, 2015, at 11:32 AM, Michael Jones via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Ls and Gs
> 
> Can you help me? I have recently bought an 8ft inflatable as tender and am 
> looking at second hand outboard options. Can you advise me of adequate size 
> required? Specifically I have seen a 2,2 hp advertised. Will that be enough 
> to potter to the dock and back? The safety sticker on the boat says up to 5hp 
> but that seeems a bit much and heavy.
> 
> Thanks and regards
> 
> Mike Jones
> Seanachai, 1981 C&C 34
> Victoria

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Re: Stus-List Galvanic isolator - Good idea?

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Steve — the “fail-safe” versions of galvanic isolators are also ABYC-approved, 
and don’t require the remote panel.  There’s a company up in our neck of the 
woods that started out making electrical equipment for dairy farms; they 
realized that their ground isolation products would also work well on boats, so 
they expanded into the marine market.  All their units are the “fail-safe” 
types, and their prices are reasonable.

http://www.dairyland.com/products/galvanic-isolator 

http://www.deimarine.com 


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Oct 28, 2015, at 11:24 AM, S Thomas via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Ed, 
>What you say is true from the perspective of having effective galvanic 
> isolation, but there are a couple of design issues that come to mind. In 
> order for galvanic isolation to work, all wiring grounds to the boat must be 
> interrupted by a galvanic isolator. This means that if there are two shore 
> power receptacles then both of them would have to have their wiring grounds 
> taken to the isolator and then out again to the distribution panel(s). From 
> an engineering perspective, a wiring ground only needs to have enough 
> capacity to reliably trip a circuit breaker without catching on fire, but 
> most electrical codes require that they have the same capacity as the main 
> conductors. In other words, if you care about regulations and some people on 
> this list have indicated that they do, then the galvanic isolator would most 
> likely have to have at least the current capacity of the sum of both shore 
> power receptacles. 
> According to the instructions that came with a galvanic isolator that a 
> friend of mine bought last year, a galvanic isolator requires an (optional 
> and at an additional cost for that particular product) indicator light to be 
> ABYC compliant. I was shocked at the price tag on the commercial units. The 
> prices are grossly out of line with what they actually contain. 
>If you don't care about the light and just want something that works, then 
> a big enough bridge rectifier, 30 amps for example, with the DC terminals 
> connected together will work fine and cost a lot less than something that 
> says "marine" on it. The voltage rating of the rectifier does not matter, 
> just the current rating. It will provide about 1.2 volts of isolation from 
> the mains ground. 
>  
> Steve Thomas
> Port Stanley, ON

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Re: Stus-List Galvanic isolator - Good idea?

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Also, the ProMariner FS Series is a “fail-safe” type isolator; no remote panel 
needed.  Under $300 for a 30-amp unit.

http://promariner.com/products/galvanic-isolation/prosafefs-series/

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Oct 28, 2015, at 11:29 AM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Steve — the “fail-safe” versions of galvanic isolators are also 
> ABYC-approved, and don’t require the remote panel.  There’s a company up in 
> our neck of the woods that started out making electrical equipment for dairy 
> farms; they realized that their ground isolation products would also work 
> well on boats, so they expanded into the marine market.  All their units are 
> the “fail-safe” types, and their prices are reasonable.
> 
> http://www.dairyland.com/products/galvanic-isolator 
> <http://www.dairyland.com/products/galvanic-isolator>
> http://www.deimarine.com <http://www.deimarine.com/>
> 
> 
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
> 
>> On Oct 28, 2015, at 11:24 AM, S Thomas via CnC-List > <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>> 
>> Ed, 
>>What you say is true from the perspective of having effective 
>> galvanic isolation, but there are a couple of design issues that come to 
>> mind. In order for galvanic isolation to work, all wiring grounds to the 
>> boat must be interrupted by a galvanic isolator. This means that if there 
>> are two shore power receptacles then both of them would have to have their 
>> wiring grounds taken to the isolator and then out again to the distribution 
>> panel(s). From an engineering perspective, a wiring ground only needs to 
>> have enough capacity to reliably trip a circuit breaker without catching on 
>> fire, but most electrical codes require that they have the same capacity as 
>> the main conductors. In other words, if you care about regulations and some 
>> people on this list have indicated that they do, then the galvanic isolator 
>> would most likely have to have at least the current capacity of the sum of 
>> both shore power receptacles. 
>> According to the instructions that came with a galvanic isolator that a 
>> friend of mine bought last year, a galvanic isolator requires an (optional 
>> and at an additional cost for that particular product) indicator light to be 
>> ABYC compliant. I was shocked at the price tag on the commercial units. The 
>> prices are grossly out of line with what they actually contain. 
>>If you don't care about the light and just want something that works, 
>> then a big enough bridge rectifier, 30 amps for example, with the DC 
>> terminals connected together will work fine and cost a lot less than 
>> something that says "marine" on it. The voltage rating of the rectifier does 
>> not matter, just the current rating. It will provide about 1.2 volts of 
>> isolation from the mains ground. 
>>  
>> Steve Thomas
>> Port Stanley, ON
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Re: Stus-List Galvanic isolator - Good idea?

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Joel —it would pretty much take a direct hit by lightning to cause one of these 
units to fail; if that happens, you’ve got other issues to deal with…   :^)

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(


p.s. — I just looked out the window, and there’s some weird white flaky stuff 
falling from the sky…   :^(   Dennis, got your boards ready?


> On Oct 28, 2015, at 1:14 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I understand the need for a failsafe mode. However if there is no indicator 
> light how would you ever know it failed unless you put a meter on it and 
> tested it periodically?

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Stus-List Electronics

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

To any lister who’s thinking about updating or adding electronics, my vendor’s 
“virtual showroom sale” started today.  They’ve got additional savings off the 
already-great pricing I can offer to my friends here on the list; like an 
additional $50 off Raymarine chartplotters like the new eS75.

If you’d like pricing on anything, let me know.  Shipping in the US is flat 
rate, regardless of order size.

Now back to our regularly-scheduled programming...



Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

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Re: Stus-List Cabin Heat

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Steve — I’ve got a Dickinson P12000 on my LF38, and love it.  However, I’ve got 
a propane locker with two five-pound tanks in it; I teed off from the feed to 
the galley range (after the solenoid, inside the locker) and ran a separate 
propane line to the heater.

In your case, you would have to have some sort of external propane locker which 
is sealed, vented overboard and has a solenoid to control the gas.  Also, 
you’ll need a regulator to reduce the pressure of the gas in the tank to levels 
that the Dickinson could use (about 3-4 psi, if I recall correctly; and you’d 
need to do this regardless of whether you were using a large tank or the 
1-pound disposables).  Something like this, but you’d need to find a place to 
put it: 
http://www.go2marine.com/product/211547F/trident-propane-locker-fully-rigged-lpg-system.html

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Nov 5, 2015, at 9:57 AM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Not sure if this needs a separate thread but I've been looking at the 
> Dickinson heaters, the Propane P9000. I don't have diesel on board and my 
> early 32 doesn't have a propane locker. Seems you can run these things off of 
> 1lb disposable tanks but if I'm reading it correctly, they must be located 
> outside or in a propane locker (which I don't have). I suppose it's not safe 
> to have the 1lb propane tank inside the boat eh? 
> 
> What have other non-propane boat owners done?
> The hot water engine heat is nice when you're motoring now doubt, but we like 
> to spend days at anchor and we're looking to extend our cruising into the 
> fall next year. 
> 
> Thanks,
> Steve
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Re: Stus-List cabin head...hard fuel

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

I’d think that after the first year frozen in, you would have move to warmer 
climes…   :^)

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Nov 5, 2015, at 1:16 PM, Jimmy Kelly via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> spent 5 winters  frozen in  ice  living aboard in great lakes ...

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Re: Stus-List Fwd: Raymarine Multi Function display/radar combo

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Danny — happy birthday!   :^)

I can beat that price by $25 through midnight Eastern time, if anyone’s 
interested… my vendor’s sale ends then.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Nov 10, 2015, at 8:43 AM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I don't know if anyone is interested but I saw the package at boaters land 
> for under $1775.00 shipped
>  
> Model RAYT70232
>  
> Thats pretty cheap!
>  
> I wish I could get west marine to price match because I have over $200 in 
> gift cards that I got for birthday presents!
>  
> Danny

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Re: Stus-List Ray marine AutoPilot and Garmin GPS

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Edd — Joel’s right, you’ll need some sort of NMEA2000/SeaTalkNG converter to 
NMEA0183 to get your Garmin plotter connected; and the Actisense would be a 
great choice.  The new plotter would be an even greater choice…   :^)

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Nov 11, 2015, at 10:22 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Edd,
> 
> Looks like the plotter is NMEA 0183 and the AP is NMEA 2000.  You'll need an 
> Actisense converter to translate the info - about $200.  Or get an early 55th 
> bDay present of a new plotter!
> 
> Joel
> 35/3
> Annapolis

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Re: Stus-List Changing weight distribution in Landfall 38

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Bob — I would consider sizing the wiring aft from the forward batteries to 
allow at least 100 amps, with a maximum 10% voltage drop.  This would require 
at least 4AWG cabling from under the v-berth to the electrical panel aft; 
better would be 2AWG, which would allow you to pull 30 amps with a 3% voltage 
drop.  Don’t forget that you’ll need a battery switch located very close to the 
bank under the v-berth; and I would also put a 100-amp breaker (a 285-Series 
surface mount would do the trick: 
https://www.bluesea.com/products/7187/285-Series_Circuit_Breaker_-_Surface_Mount_100A)
 after the battery switch to protect the long wiring running aft.

The biggest issue with doing this is that trying to start your engine by 
switching over to the forward bank is most likely not going to work, as your 
starter wants more current than your wiring would be sized for.  Trying to 
upsize the wiring to accommodate this would be VERY expensive, and not ideal in 
any case.  If you move two batteries forward and keep two aft, basically 
splitting your house bank into two banks, you’d have a better chance using the 
aft bank as an emergency engine start source; but your wiring for charging and 
selection is going to be more complicated.

Does this help at all, or just set you up for more questions?   :^)

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Nov 19, 2015, at 10:24 AM, Robert Boyer via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I am equipping my boat for 8 months per year of cruising in the Bahamas.  I 
> have added a 19-gallon auxiliary diesel tank where my holding tank was 
> located (under the navigation seat) which adds weight aft.  I currently have 
> 4 group 27 batteries which will be eventually upgraded to Group 31's--these 
> also are located aft.
> 
> I have been considering moving 2 or 3 batteries from the aft cockpit locker 
> to some dead space under the v-berth.  This would take some weight from the 
> aft and add it forward.  (My boat currently sits about 2" high at the bow and 
> maybe 1 inch low at the stern with no one aboard but full fuel tanks.)
> 
> I could configure the batteries such that the new forward bank could be the 
> house bank and the starting bank (which I could probably reduce to 1 or 2 
> batteries) could remain aft.  My problem is sizing the cables that would run 
> from the forward batteries to the aft controls.  As I see it, these cables 
> would never carry more than 30 amps (maximum charging from my solar panels) 
> unless I needed them for starting (in the event of a dead starting battery).
> 
> Does anyone have any comments or suggestions on this matter?
> 
> Bob
> 
> Bob Boyer
> S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD
> 1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230
> email: dainyr...@icloud.com  
> blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com 
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Re: Stus-List Batteries in the cabin. Was Re: Changing weight distribution in Landfall 38

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Bob — I think you missed the boat reference underneath the C&C25:  Irwin 43 
“Waterdancer”.  I imagine that’s where the batteries live…  and the dogs…   :^)


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Nov 20, 2015, at 7:54 AM, Robert Boyer via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> The symptoms are (1) an unexplainable urge to find warm weather, (2) an urge 
> to get off the boat when it snows, and (3) cold feet in the winter.  (Just 
> kidding)
> 
> Life is full of dangers--the biggest one on the highway.
> 
> How did you manage to fit 5 group 27s under your cabin sole in a C&C 27?  Are 
> you crazy living aboard avC&C 27 in the winter in Boston?  I can understand 
> the need for 2 dogs--hope they are big ones!
> 
> Bob
> 
> Bob Boyer
> S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD
> 1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230
> email: dainyr...@icloud.com  
> blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com 
> 
> "There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply 
> messing about in boats."  --Kenneth Grahame
> 
> On Nov 19, 2015, at 11:30 PM, Sailnomad via CnC-List  > wrote:
> 
>> Ok, now I am worried
>> I have 5 group 27 wet cell batteries under my cabin sole. They are not 
>> wented. And I live aboard full time with wife and 2 dogs. Am I living 
>> dangerously ? I never smelled anything. What are the symptoms ?
>> Ahmet
>> C&C 25 "Tabasco"
>> Irwin 43 "Waterdancer"
>> Boston, MA
>> 

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Re: Stus-List Keel repair

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

That sounds like Wal’s deal, back in 2005 I think.

— Fred



Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Nov 22, 2015, at 4:40 PM, Jim Watts via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I heard of that technique with keel scrubbing but using a wire brush with 
> epoxy to really get into the lead. I think that came from Gougeon originally, 
> but I don't know who first mentioned it on this forum. 

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Re: Stus-List substitution of depth transducers

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Eric — the old transducer may very well work with the new head; you may lose 
readings at depths beyond 150 feet if your older transducer won’t do 50 kHz.

But as another lister pointed out, why not just have a nice new transducer to 
go along with your shiny new i50/i60 instruments?  Once you get the old 
transducer out, unless there’s any hull work to do, installing a new one 
doesn’t take that long.  And if you ever decide to take Cat’s Paw out into the 
Gulf Stream, you’ll be glad you have the temp transducer.

Happy Thanksgiving, all!

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Nov 25, 2015, at 9:27 PM, Eric Frank via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I am replacing depth, speed and wind instruments on Cat’s Paw with i50 and 
> i60 Raymarine instruments.  As noted in an ongoing thread, it is difficult to 
> remove the old depth transducer, so is it possible to use the old one with 
> the new Raymarine display?  The old transducer is for a Signet Scientific 
> MK172 instrument, which is probably more than 12 years old but still works 
> fine.  In the manual, it states that “The transmitter produces six pulses per 
> second at an amplitude of 450 volts peak·to·peak with 63 watts of power 
> output per pulse. The high power output is obtained by charging a large 
> capacitor to build a large current flow without heavy drain from the external 
> power source. The frequency is adjustable from 160 to 200 kHz but is set at 
> the factory for 200 kHz nominal.”  The transducer that came with the 
> Raymarine instruments is an Airmar P319, listed on the tag on its cable as 
> 50/200 KHz. That transducer also measures temperature, but I would be happy 
> to forgo that if I didn’t have to change the transducer.  Is there a way of 
> testing if the old transducer works with the new display while the boat is on 
> the hard (for the winter)?  What happens if you test a transducer when it is 
> completely out of water?  Would it harm the Raymarine instrument to be 
> connected to the old transducer? 
> 
> Eric Frank
> Cat's Paw
> C&C 35 Mk II
> Mattapoisett, MA

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Re: Stus-List substitution of depth transducers

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Russ — there actually IS a way to test depth transducers out of the water.  
Hook it up and turn on the depth instrument, then put an AM radio near the 
transducer, turn it on and tune it away from a station to static.  If you then 
hear a regular “tick-tick-tick” sound coming out of the radio which gets louder 
as you get the radio closer to the transducer, then the transducer is working.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Nov 27, 2015, at 1:41 PM, Russ & Melody via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hi Eric,
> 
> I didn't see all of your questions answered in the batch of replies. Don't 
> worry, it's not unusual for this beloved group o' squirrel chasers :)
> - there is no practical way for you to test the old transducer out of the 
> water

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Re: Stus-List substitution of depth transducers

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Eric -- if Joel can do it on his 35, you can, too.   :^)

-- Fred

> On Nov 28, 2015, at 4:41 PM, Eric Frank via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> And as Fred points out - who knows - I might need to measure water 
> temperature when I sail to Bermuda again - not since 1972 when I sailed to 
> the Azores with my father on a lovely 43 foot SS yawl, a sister ship to 
> Finisterre.
> 
> Cheers,  Eric
> Cat's Paw
> C&C 35 Mk II
> Mattapoisett, MA

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Re: Stus-List substitution of depth transducers

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

This is the first one I’ve heard of that failed.  Usually they’re very 
reliable.  It’s just a thermistor potted in the transducer housing:

http://www.airmartechnology.com/uploads/wiringdiagrams/91_636.pdf 


No info on the value of the thermistor...

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Nov 27, 2015, at 6:47 PM, Russ & Melody via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Now, how about the unreliability issue with the temperature sensing element 
> of the Raymarine transducer? Is it a simple RTD and of what value, so I can 
> haywire something in stead of it?
> 
> Cheers, Russ
> Sweet 35 mk-1
> B.C. South Coast, where it has dropped below freezing on some nights 
> now!

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Re: Stus-List Tide prediction app for my IPad?

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Yup, I’ver got the Nobeltec TZ for iPad; it’s got decent currents on it.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Dec 1, 2015, at 8:19 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Rick,
> 
> Several of the nav programs have currents.  I think Fred used Nobeltec on his 
> mini.  
> 
> Joel

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Re: Stus-List DST800 Transducer (tri)

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Hi, Steve — these transducers ARE the same, only with different plugs.  The 
Garmin one is actually cheaper than the Raymarine through my vendor.

As these are NMEA2000-native transducers, and the instruments you’ve got are 
only SeaTalk1, you can’t use the triducer directly with the instruments without 
the SeaTalk1 converter mentioned on the Raymarine site; and you won’t get any 
calibration without having an i70 on the SeaTalkNG network.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Dec 1, 2015, at 7:31 AM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> turns out the info is on Raymarine's website, who would have thought?!!
> 
> ;)
> 
> "The transducers above may be used with ST40, i40, i50 and ST60+ displays (as 
> repeaters only) on the SeaTalk1 network via a SeaTalk to SeaTalkng convertor 
> (right).
> 
> Please note that ST40/i40/i50 and ST60+ displays will only work as repeaters 
> if used with the above transducers. You cannot calibrate the transducers from 
> these instruments. For calibration you would require a following SeaTalkng 
> instrument: ST70, ST70+ or i70 display in your network."
> 
> Sounds like it'll work, but not really. How big of a deal is this? I want new 
> instruments anyway but new instruments don't come with a smart transducer 
> like this and I want to get rid of the existing depth without drilling 
> another hole or going through-the-hull like it is now. 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Steve
> Suhana, C&C 32
> Toronto
> 
> 
> 
> On Tue, Dec 1, 2015 at 8:22 AM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> Hi All,
> 
> I'm assuming that these are both just airmar transducers:
> 
> Garmin:
> http://ca.binnacle.com/p7849/GARMIN-TRANSDUCER-DST800-SPD/TEMP/DEPTH-NMEA2000/product_info.html
>  
> 
> 
> Raymarine:
> http://ca.binnacle.com/p8942/RAYMARINE-TRANSDUCER-RETRACTABLE-TRIDUCER-ST-NG-DST800-(ST70/i70)/product_info.html
>  
> 
> 
> I have Raymarine ST40 for depth and speed and want to replace the paddlewheel 
> I have with this one so I can get rid of the internally mounted depth 
> sounder, which has always been flakey. I'm under the impression that this one 
> will work but would appreciate verification (or not!).
> 
> Thanks,
> Steve
> Suhana, C&C 32
> Toronto
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> ___
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Re: Stus-List little A&H hatches on a LF38

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Paul — I had a bunch of sets made up for LF38 listers several years ago; I may 
still have a few left.  Let me check and get back to you.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Dec 1, 2015, at 4:29 PM, Dreuge via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I need to replace the lens on the little hatches in the galley and head.  I 
> believe these are Atkins & Hoyle model 550 single frame hatches 
> (discontinued).  
> 
> Does anyone know of a reasonable source for new lenses?   I contacted A&H and 
> they want $325 for a single lens.   Or has anyone made their own replacement 
> lenses?  For the most part they look like 1/2” grey acrylic 15-1/4” x 8”  
> with a routered gasket groove on the inside.  Making the groove would seem 
> tricky.
> 
> 
>  
> Here is a photo: 
> http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-cQwWT5f4T5s/VlxR-3M0xvI/IR0/31kUx-Mliz0/s1600/%2B-%2BVersion%2B2.jpg
>  
> 
> 
> 
> -
> Paul E.
> 1981 C&C 38 Landfall 
> S/V Johanna Rose
> Carrabelle, FL
> 
> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/ 
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Re: Stus-List Tide prediction app for my IPad? with great lakes twist

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Pete — I’m not seeing anything on TZ for current on Lake Superior.  It doesn’t 
surprise me, as there are very few data buoys on the lake, and looking at the 
National Data Buoy Center website data for the buoys out on the lake, I don’t 
see any current data.

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Dec 1, 2015, at 4:29 PM, Frederick G Street  wrote:
> 
> You know, I haven’t looked; I used it mostly for the Bermuda race last year.  
> I’ll check and see, but I’d be willing to bet it doesn’t.
> 
> — Fred
> 
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
> 
>> On Dec 1, 2015, at 4:27 PM, Pete Shelquist > > wrote:
>> 
>> Fred – 
>> Does it provide currents for the Great Lakes?
>>  
>> FYI - At times I encountered up to 1 knt during the Trans.  It would be nice 
>> to have a tool to help predict that.
> 

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Re: Stus-List little A&H hatches on a LF38

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Paul, Patrick and Dan — I found my order for the replacement lenses (from 
2005!), along with one blank lens.  Back in 2005, I paid about $60 each to have 
the lenses fabricated; I can check with the company that did it and see if they 
still have the CNC files, and what it would cost to have some new sets made up. 
 Let me know if you’re interested.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Dec 1, 2015, at 4:35 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Paul — I had a bunch of sets made up for LF38 listers several years ago; I 
> may still have a few left.  Let me check and get back to you.
> 
> — Fred
> 
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
> 
>> On Dec 1, 2015, at 4:29 PM, Dreuge via CnC-List > <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>> 
>> Hi,
>> 
>> I need to replace the lens on the little hatches in the galley and head.  I 
>> believe these are Atkins & Hoyle model 550 single frame hatches 
>> (discontinued).  
>> 
>> Does anyone know of a reasonable source for new lenses?   I contacted A&H 
>> and they want $325 for a single lens.   Or has anyone made their own 
>> replacement lenses?  For the most part they look like 1/2” grey acrylic 
>> 15-1/4” x 8”  with a routered gasket groove on the inside.  Making the 
>> groove would seem tricky.
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Re: Stus-List little A&H hatches on a LF38

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Sorry, make that “eight by fifteen inches”.  I’ve got a call in to them to see 
if they still have the CNC pattern, and to get pricing.  Anyone else who might 
be interested, please post on the list and I’ll get back to you.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Dec 2, 2015, at 12:11 PM, Frederick G Street  wrote:
> 
> Pete — this was at A1 Acrylics in Osseo.  Keep in mind that these are small 
> frameless-lens opening hatches over the galley and head on just a few models 
> of C&C’s.  The lenses aren’t very big (roughly five by twelve inches), in a 
> rounded rectangular shape, with some small cutouts for the hinges and a 
> groove cut in the face for a round gasket.
> 
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
> 
>> On Dec 2, 2015, at 12:04 PM, Pete Shelquist > > wrote:
>> 
>> Fred – 
>> That sounds like a good price.  Is that local?
>>  
>> FYI I just had a new window cut by a local shop in Anoka and it was close to 
>> $200.
> 

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Re: Stus-List little A&H hatches on a LF38

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Patrick — there should also be two small routed areas where the hinges are “let 
in” to the edge of the lens; one is longer that the other to allow for the 
spring that pushes the hatch open when you undog it.

I specifically ordered these WITHOUT any of the holes drilled; just because of 
the issue of precision.  If you place the lens centered in the frame, then flip 
the hinges over, you can exactly mark and drill the holes.  This worked well 
for me and the six others who did this back in 2005.

The lenses are fabricated out of 3/8” acrylic in color #2404, bronze — this 
should match the originals.  I dropped my spare lens off at the acrylic company 
this morning, and expect to hear back from them with pricing by the first of 
next week.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Dec 4, 2015, at 12:00 PM, Patrick Davin  wrote:
> 
> Hey Fred, I'm interested in 2 of the windows if you find the company still 
> has the pattern. 
> 
> I confirmed last night my windows are exactly 8" x 15". With rounded corners, 
> grooved cut for the gasket, a hole for each of the hinge bolts, and two holes 
> for the latch knob.
> 
> Do you know the thickness of the material and do they actually drill all the 
> holes too? I'd be a little worried about it lining up exactly, but if it 
> worked for you then it sounds like a pretty easy job. 
> 
> thanks,
> -Patrick
> 1984 C&C LF38
> Seattle, WA

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Re: Stus-List little A&H hatches on a LF38

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Paul — that looks pretty nasty; and those lenses don’t look like they’re 
original to me.  The hinges have two holes for bolts; it looks like the one on 
the left of your photo cracked across those two holes.  I have no clue where 
the other one came from, with one large bolt through it, unless it was drilled 
out from its original state.

If you can get the hinge pin out, I’d be willing to bet you could use the one 
intact hinge from this hatch to have some new one machined out of aluminum, 
with the original hole pattern for the lens bolts.  If you decide to go that 
route, let me know and I can have some lenses made up for you.

I doubt you’re going to find a replacement hatch anywhere that will fit those 
dimensions without having to do a LOT of glass work; the pads in which they sit 
don’t match any after-market hatches I’ve ever been able to find, or I would 
have replaced mine long ago.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Dec 6, 2015, at 10:51 AM, dre...@gmail.com wrote:
> 
> Hi Fred,
> 
> 
> I have to pass on the hatch lenses.  I have bigger problems with my hatches 
> then just poor acrylic.   I just removed the lenses, and found that ALL of 
> the hinges were galled and most of the bolt threads are stripped.  Even 
> worst, one hinge, under a glob of silicone, is broken in two.  It looks like 
> the last owner tried to pot the lenses permanently in place with silicone.  I 
> have been putting this repair off for some time (the sunbrella hatch covers 
> made it easy to ignore).  And I was hoping it would be a somewhat easy fix, 
> but as now see it is more of a mess that I realized.  I am contacting 
> Hammerhead and A&H to look  for replacement parts, but may need to start 
> thinking of hatch replacements if parts are not available. 
> 
>  Have a look at: 
> http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-0oqyr9V2SNU/VmRVOgtsv4I/ISU/yWwtZ3XFuz8/s1600/IMG_4905.JPG
>  
> 
> 
> Thank you again for your kind offering to help.
> 
> -
> Paul Eugenio
> 1981 C&C 38 Landfall 
> S/V Johanna Rose
> Carrabelle, FL
> 
> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/ ___

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Re: Stus-List little A&H hatches on a LF38

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Paul — they must have changed them at some point.  See the photos I took when I 
changed these out in 2005:

http://www.postaudio.net/webserver/lf38hatches.html 


Another good reason I didn’t drill out the holes when I had the lenses 
fabricated (apparently a reason I forgot…).

— Fred


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(


On Dec 6, 2015, at 6:17 PM, s/v Johanna Rose via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

> Fred,
> 
> All of my hinges have one hole.   The break occurred between the hole and the 
> hinge joint.  I have posted additional photos on my blog but no write up yet. 
> 
> I checked Wally’s site(our hulls are two numbers off), and it looks like his 
> hinges are like mine with one big hole through the acrylic for each hinge.  
> The latch on the other hand has two holes.  
> 
> Maybe around 1981, they changed the hinge?
> 
> 
> Here is the direct link to Wally’s page:  
> http://www.wbryant.com/StellaBoat/Projects/deck/hatch/index.htm 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks again for you input.
> 
> -
> Paul E.
> 1981 C&C 38 Landfall 
> S/V Johanna Rose
> Carrabelle, FL
> 
> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/ ___

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Re: Stus-List Rot in non-structural bulkhead - thoughts?

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Patrick — from what I can see in your photos, I wouldn’t be surprised if the 
battery (or a previous one) had something to do with the rot.  The 
discoloration and deterioration of the wood could have come from acid leak or 
outgassing of hydrogen sulfide from a battery being overcharged.

Your best bet, if you have enough access, would be to cut back a rectangular 
section of the plywood until you reach “good” wood, then put in a patch out of 
new marine plywood and get a layer of glass over everything.  That should keep 
the battery issue in check in the future.

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Dec 7, 2015, at 3:00 PM, Patrick Davin via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> So I'm doing a lot of projects lately, and was majorly bummed out to find the 
> wall between the engine compartment and the lower foot of the port aft 
> quarterberth has some significant rot. Frustrated because lately it feels 
> like every project I fix, I find a new one. And this will be a big one. 
> 
> Please see pictures here: 
> https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0BxfHpwssU_6NNVBhbXpEZnhkUE0&usp=sharing
>  
> 
> 
> As they say, pictures are worth a thousand words. It's a 2-3 foot section of 
> the port engine compartment wall, abutting the storage compartments under the 
> port quarterberth.
> 
> One thing I'm perplexed on is - how did this happen? There are no leaks 
> dripping onto this area as far as I can tell. The cockpit is above this and 
> it doesn't have any major penetrations on this side. And the top of the 
> bulkhead is solid. Normally when wood rots I expect it to start from the top, 
> where the leak is. 
> 
> The only clue I have is this bulkhead had two cuts / gaps in the bottom 
> (probably to run wires through) and that's where the rot seems to have spread 
> out from. So maybe the moisture got in through the exposed grain at the cut?  
> There is high humidity in the engine compartment due to inevitable moisture 
> in there. But also the rot is right behind the batteries (house #1 + 
> starter), which I find suspicious. Is it possible the gel cells outgassing 
> actually caused the damage somehow? 
> 
> From the pictures do you think this might be "dry rot"? (a particularly evil 
> kind of rot which apparently spreads by fungus even without an active water 
> leak anymore)
> 
> If it's spreading I want to cut out the bad portion of the bulkhead and glass 
> in new wood asap. If it's not spreading I can put it off, or even ignore it 
> since it's not structural. I could even just paint over it with new 
> waterproof marine paint?   If I have to cut it out, access will be tough - 
> it's in the engine space, I'll have to remove the batteries, some wiring, and 
> probably the exhaust lift riser, and the panel that covers the aft 
> quarterberth storage compartments. 
> 
> The other thing is I can't even tell what kind of wood this was originally. 
> It doesn't seem as strong as marine plywood or the wood used in other 
> bulkheads. The bad wood seems sort of grey / bluish colored - I'm not sure if 
> that's from the flaked off white paint or what. 
> 
> The other option is trying Git Rot injected into holes drilled into it. 
> http://www.boatlife.com/git-rot/ 
> 
> At this point mainly wondering if any of you have experience with this issue, 
> particularly in this area (non-structural, between engine compartment and aft 
> qtrberth storage compartments) or how something like this can happen (rotting 
> from the bottom up rather than top down)?
> 
> -Patrick
> 1984 C&C LF38
> Seattle, WA
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Re: Stus-List little A&H hatches on a LF38

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

I just heard back from the acrylics place — they want $65 each for the lenses 
for the small galley/head hatches on the LF38.  These would come precut, but 
not predrilled for the hinge and latch castings; you’d need to do those 
yourself, due to differences in the hatches.

These same hatches are in use on a couple of other models of C&C, as well (33?).

Anyone interested, contact me off-list and we’ll sort through the details.  
Hopefully we can get ten to order, as that’s what the acrylics place based 
their costs on.  And shipping would be additional.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Dec 6, 2015, at 10:51 AM, dre...@gmail.com wrote:
> 
> Hi Fred,
> 
> 
> I have to pass on the hatch lenses.  I have bigger problems with my hatches 
> then just poor acrylic.   I just removed the lenses, and found that ALL of 
> the hinges were galled and most of the bolt threads are stripped.  Even 
> worst, one hinge, under a glob of silicone, is broken in two.  It looks like 
> the last owner tried to pot the lenses permanently in place with silicone.  I 
> have been putting this repair off for some time (the sunbrella hatch covers 
> made it easy to ignore).  And I was hoping it would be a somewhat easy fix, 
> but as now see it is more of a mess that I realized.  I am contacting 
> Hammerhead and A&H to look  for replacement parts, but may need to start 
> thinking of hatch replacements if parts are not available. 
> 
>  Have a look at: 
> http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-0oqyr9V2SNU/VmRVOgtsv4I/ISU/yWwtZ3XFuz8/s1600/IMG_4905.JPG
>  
> 
> 
> Thank you again for your kind offering to help.
> 
> -
> Paul Eugenio
> 1981 C&C 38 Landfall 
> S/V Johanna Rose
> Carrabelle, FL
> 
> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/ 
> 
>> Begin forwarded message:
>> 
>> From: Paul Eugenio mailto:dre...@gmail.com>>
>> Date: December 1, 2015 at 7:05:18 PM EST
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List little A&H hatches on a LF38
>> 
>> Fred,
>> 
>> Wow, sound great.   
>> 
>> 
>> -
>> Paul E.
>> 1981 C&C 38 Landfall 
>> S/V Johanna Rose
>> Carrabelle, FL
>> 
>> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/ 
>>> On Dec 1, 2015, at 5:47 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com 
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Date: Tue, 1 Dec 2015 16:35:59 -0600
>>> From: Frederick G Street mailto:f...@postaudio.net>>
>>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
>>> Subject: Re: Stus-List little A&H hatches on a LF38
>>> Message-ID: >> >
>>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>>> 
>>> Paul ? I had a bunch of sets made up for LF38 listers several years ago; I 
>>> may still have a few left.  Let me check and get back to you.
>>> 
>>> ? Fred
>>> 
>>> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
>>> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
>> 
> 

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Re: Stus-List How to attach a rigid boom vang on LF38

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Patrick — I scratched my head on that one for a little while, too; but I 
finally realized that the mainsheet does NOT need to follow the boom all the 
way to the mast.  I have two fiddle blocks attached to the bottom of the boom 
to spread the mainsheet load from the fiddle block on the traveler.  From the 
forward one of those blocks, the line then angles down to the mast collar, 
where it turns on a block to head back to the cockpit.  So the mainsheet 
basically parallels (and is beneath) the Garhauer rigid vang, which is mounted 
to the boom ahead of that fiddle block.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Dec 20, 2015, at 10:50 PM, Patrick Davin via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I'm thinking of getting a Garhauer rigid vang. Only problem - the dang 
> mainsheet block lead is in the way. It's mounted on deck in the standard 
> location a few inches behind the mast collar, then the main sheet runs 
> vertically up to a boom block. If I mount the boom vang to port of the main 
> sheet, it'll bind / rub on a starboard broad reach (I think). Or similarly 
> for the other side. 
> 
> How have other LF38 owners attached a rigid vang? I'm sure there are more 
> than just one who have made the upgrade. 
> 
> Wally has some good writeups on his running rigging and moving his main sheet 
> padeye. But, it's not clear to me exactly how he ran the vang, and it seems 
> like he was unhappy with how the main sheet padeye move worked out (it ended 
> up being in the way). And I'm not sure if he ever installed the rigid vang he 
> was thinking of upgrading to. 
> 
> http://www.wbryant.com/StellaBoat/Projects/runrig/mapadeye/mpad.htm 
> 
> 
> http://www.wbryant.com/StellaBoat/Projects/runrig/pad2/pad2.htm 
> 
> 
> I know from the archives that Nick of "Parbleu!" installed a Garhauer vang, 
> but he didn't mention anything of changing the leads. 
> http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/2011-January/036831.html 
> 
> 
> Maybe it doesn't matter because although the mainsheet will get bent a bit by 
> the vang, the smooth metal won't be enough to chafe it or make trimming 
> difficult? Or does everyone move their main sheet padeye?
> 
> Here's a pic of the current layout:
> 
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BxfHpwssU_6NY0ZoeVBpV244UDQ/view?usp=sharing 
> 
> 
> Main sheet is the red one, and the turning block immediately to stbd of it 
> (white line with blue/black tracers) is the current non-rigid vang attached 
> to the mast collar. That one binds too, but it's not too bad because the 
> block+shackle gets it out far enough that usually just the blocks are hitting.
> 
> -Patrick
> 1984 C&C Landfall 38
> Seattle, WA

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Re: Stus-List How to attach a rigid boom vang on LF38

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Patrick — I basically replaced two blocks, each with a roughly 90-degree lead 
(at the mast/boom gooseneck, and at the mast partners), with a single block 
with about a 150-degree lead at the deck collar.  With enough purchase at the 
boom for the sheet (in my case, 4:1), I just need to overcome the friction of 
that one acute lead.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Dec 21, 2015, at 11:35 AM, Patrick Davin via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I think I see what you're saying... a bit hard to visualize without pictures. 
> But it sounds like you moved the forwardmost deck lead to the mast collar, 
> and then from there to the boom you skipped / eliminated the forward-most 
> lead on the boom (where the line would normally go vertically almost straight 
> up to), going instead to a mid-boom (slightly aft of vang) block? 
> 
> I think the angles on that would work. One concern I had with that - that 
> makes the sheeting angle at the mast collar block acute? As in about 45-60 
> degrees, rather than 90 degrees or so?  I thought 90 or more was advisable 
> since sharp acute angles exert higher loads. Although I guess that just means 
> use a strong enough block. 
> 
> It sounds like most people's solutions end up abandoning the deck-mounted 
> turning block behind the mast collar. The only downside to that is my mast 
> collar is getting crowded. But I think I can free up room by moving the jib 
> halyard forward stbd one position.
> 
> -Patrick

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Re: Stus-List Welcome to a great resource! [was "Lines led forward"]

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

To those who aren’t aware, I believe Chuck worked at Edson in years past; and 
been a great resource for technically-related steering issues on our old boats. 
 In fact, every customer-service related call I’ve made to Edson over the years 
(and I believe Chuck has been involved in more than one…) has been exceptional, 
and they’ve gone out of their way to support me, first on my 1981 30mkI and now 
my even older 1979 LF38.

So Chuck, welcome; and I hope we can repay the favors.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Dec 22, 2015, at 7:28 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hi All,
> I’m purchasing a Landfall 35 that has a brand new gennaker but no sock or 
> snuffer.  From several forum posts, I’m reading that using a sock can be a 
> bit challenging and can easily foul midway through the hoist or douse if care 
> isn’t taken to keep lines clear.  Any recommendations?  Can one assume that 
> the ATN or North products work equally well (or poorly)?   Most of the 
> sailhandling with be done double handed with the help of my teenage son, thus 
> the reason for the post.  The main and jib halyards are run aft to the 
> cockpit, but I believe the spin halyard stays up by the mast, something I may 
> likely change.  The new boat is on the hard, mast down and there aren’t any 
> winches on the mast (only on the boom for outhaul and reefing).  From the 
> factory, this boat has two dedicated halyard winches and cleats (not 
> clutches) on the coach roof with pass through holes in the cockpit coaming 
> for the main and jib halyards, but not seeing anything obvious for the spin 
> halyard.
> Thanks in advance for any feedback from sock users…
> Chuck Gilchrest
> S/V Half Magic
> 1975 25 Mk1
>  
> S/V Orion
> 1983 Landfall 35
> Padanaram, MA

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Re: Stus-List Stus List - Raymarine Combo on sale again

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

I can match that through the end of the year (barely).  It’s a hell of a price. 
 Keep in mind that if you’re going to mast-mount the dome, you’ll need the 
mount, as well as a 10-meter radar extension cable; those will total about 
$400.00 additional.

Also, I just got an email from Raymarine about their Gear-Up 2016 rebate 
program; it starts on January 4th.  Here’s a link: 
www.postaudio.net/webserver/2016_Gear_Up_Sales_Event_Worksheet_Web.pdf

Merry Christmas to all, and best wishes for a great 2016!

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Dec 24, 2015, at 9:16 AM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Okay so, Hodges has the Raymarine T70232 Multi function/radar combo for 
> $1730.00 delivered.
>  
> its the e7D & RD418D Radar Dome
>  
> anyone have any thoughts on the particulars of this package for my sailboat?
>  
> Also, Fred you want a shot at this?
>  
> Danny
> Mattapoisett, MA

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Re: Stus-List Route Planning and Uploading to Chart Plotter

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Allen — I have to admit to having absolutely NO experience with the Raytec RNS 
software.  It’s Windoze only, and I’m a Mac guy.  There are so many planning 
software tools out there, both free and not, that it’s about impossible to keep 
track any more.  But OpenCPN gets a lot of good press.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Dec 24, 2015, at 10:26 AM, allen via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Joel,
>  
> I am looking at OpenCPN for another reason, but it exports a .gpx file and I 
> don't know what that is or what accepts it as an input.
>  
> Fred, 
>  
> What do you think of Raymarine RayTec  RNS Navigation Software?
>  
> Allen
> 30-2
> Hampton

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Re: Stus-List New beer can Genoa

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Jon -- especially given your last name (!), I'd suggest you try Rolly Tasker 
Sails in Thailand.  They've given me a quote of $1400 delivered for a 135 
headsail for my LF38; and their quality is supposed to be very high.

www.rollytasker.com

-- Fred

Frederick G Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis -- 1979 C&C Landfall 38
On the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Dec 25, 2015, at 12:31 PM, Jon Tasker via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I need an affordable 155% Genoa for my 37 for Wednesday nights. North wants 
> $5000, Ullman wants $3140. At age 75, my wife the questions the necessity. 
> Anyone got any suggestions.
> Jon Tasker 
> C&C 37
> Muskegon MI
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> ___
> 
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Re: Stus-List Stus List - Raymarine Combo on sale again

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Danny — the e Series has what Raymarine calls Hybrid Touch, where you have a 
touchscreen along with hard controls to manage the MFD.  The a Series is 
touchscreen ONLY; there are no hard controls with the exception of the on/off 
switch.

All the Raymarine MFDs should work with the same set of tablets/smartphones, as 
they all use the same firmware/OS.  Then the Raymarine app for the mobile 
device does the work locally.  The compatibility list for the e Series probably 
hasn’t been updated as recently as the a Series, as the a Series is newer.

CHIRP may be an advantage if you’re planning on fishing a lot…   :^)

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Dec 28, 2015, at 11:41 AM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hello again,  
> 
> I'm getting ready to pull the trigger on this package but I notice a similar 
> package with the A78 for $110 more. 
> 
> Can anyone help with the differences and benefits of one over the other fur a 
> sail boat! 
> 
> I see the a78 has that chirp technology and seems compatible with more 
> tablets and smart phones than just the apple reference of the e7D.
> 
> Thanks for any insights
> Danny

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Re: Stus-List Stus List - Raymarine Combo on sale again

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Sure!  The eS Series is the newest MFD from Raymarine, and is basically an 
updated, more powerful version of the e Series, with both touchscreen and hard 
controls.  I would definitely recommend the eS over the e if you’re looking to 
buy today, particularly at the 7” size where there’s not much difference at all 
in price.

The Raymarine c Series has NO touchscreen capability whatsoever; just buttons.  
I’d put it at the bottom of the heap in terms of power and functionality.

How’s that?   :^)

Happy New Year, all!

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Dec 29, 2015, at 11:22 AM, Tim Goodyear  > wrote:
> 
> Fred, thank you for that summary - I've been trying to work out what the 
> differences between the Raymarine models amount to in the real world.  Would 
> you care to expand your descriptions to include the "c" and "es" ranges too?
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> Tim

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