Stus-List Fwd: Source for long stainless/brass screws

[Mike Taylor via CnC-List]

Did you try Brafasco on TerryFox.

Mike


Begin forwarded message:

> From: David Morris via CnC-List 
> Date: May 22, 2020 at 9:14:51 PM EDT
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: djmor...@djma-ltd.com
> Subject: Stus-List Source for long stainless/brass screws
> Reply-To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> 
> 
> I’m having difficulty finding a supplier of the 6” screws - preferably 
> stainless, but will settle for brass - to re-install the interior and 
> exterior handrails on our C&C 30 MKI. I’m not sure if they are a no. 10 or 
> 12. Recommendations would be much appreciated, preferably in Canada.
>  
> David J. Morris, MBA
> President, D.J. Morris & Associates Ltd.
> 24 St. Paul’s Place, Kingston, ON  K7M 7S3
> Tel. 613-531-4429
> email: djmor...@djma-ltd.com
> Member: Canadian Freelance Guild
> Blogging at: http://davidmorrisjourneys.wordpress.com/
>  
> 
> 
>   
> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. 
> www.avast.com
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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Re: Stus-List securing cables in mast

[Nathan Post via CnC-List]

Thanks to everyone who contributed to the topic of securing cables in the
mast.  I just thought I would follow up and report back the result.

In the end, I did end up going with conduit.  I installed two runs of
1-1/4" schedule 40 outdoor PVC conduit (gray).  One up the aft of the mast
(slightly off to one side) that goes up to about 12 inches from the top of
the mast and the other up the front to just past the spreaders for the
steaming light and radar.  Each ends about 6 inches from the bottom of the
mast.

Both conduits are secured using 3/16" blind sealing aluminum rivets (I got
the rivets with aluminum mandrel because I was concerned about the
corrosion resistance of the steel ones).
https://www.mcmaster.com/rivets/rivet-type~blind/material~aluminum/system-of-measurement~inch/diameter~0-1875inches/aluminum-domed-head-sealing-blind-rivets/
For the most part I used the 0.375-0.5" length.  Steps taken:
- glue conduit pieces together using PVC primer and cement, then cut bottom
end to length.
- rotate mast so surface to rivet to is down and slide conduit into mast so
gravity kind of keeps it in place
- start at foot of the mast, put two rivets in about two inches apart
(these are easy cause we can hold the pvc in place when drilling).

I was then able to install the first few rivets about 2 feet apart going up
the mast.  However, this method stops working when you get to the first
joint (where the overlapping PVC is thicker).  I could snag it if I got a
longer rivet in the joint, but starting the next section was very hard as
it moves around when trying to drill and the rivet usually didn't catch the
PVC.  I tried different methods, pushing the conduit in place where another
mast fitting gave me access or drilling another hole off center and using a
wire hook (I wasn't very successful with that). The approach that worked
best for me was to drill for a hole about 2 inches away from the target
location but in line withe the PVC.  Drill into PVC using a smaller
diameter bit and drill out the aluminum with the 3/16" bit.  Then use a
fairly long self tapping screw into the PVC and use the screw to grab the
PVC tub and pull it against the mast.  Drill and install the desired rivet
location.  Remove screw, drill out hole in PVC to 3/16 and then install a
second rivet.  I did these two rivet pairs 3-4 feet apart.
On the front of the mast, I originally didn't secure the conduit where the
spin pole track is mounted.  However, I found that it had a lot of
flexibility and banged from side to side when the mast was rotated.  I was
able to push the middle over to one side (using one of the halyard exit
holes for access) and then put some rivets in the middle there).

For the front of the mast, I drilled holes into the PVC for the cables to
come out the side of the conduit at the appropriate locations, then used an
fish tape run up from the bottom to pull feed lines in and use those to
pull the cables.  Along with the cables, I pulled a thin line to use if I
ever need to add another cable.  At the top of the mast, the cables exit
the top of the conduit a little below the mast head, VHF runs out one side
and a 5 conductor 14 gauge cable for lights out the other.  Each of those
are going through existing diagonal holes.  After securing the cables I
caulked the holes to reduce water coming down the mast.  The NEMA1803 cable
for the wind instruments goes straight up through the center of the mast
head between the head sail sheaves and into the bottom of its mounting
bracket.

Note, with the rivets sticking into the conduit the conduits filled up
pretty quick and the cables sometimes catch on the rivets when trying to
pull them through. I am not sure I could pull anything else through even
though there is a pull line.  This does point to an an advantage of the
alternative carriage bolt method that was suggested. I also think I
probably could have fit 1-1/2" conduit instead so that might have been a
better choice to give a bit more room.

The aft conduit has:
LMR400-UF
5 conductor 14 gauge round marine cable (Tri-color/anchor light, Windex
light, + 1 spare)
NEMA1803 cable (put this one in first because of the connector).
The front one has:
- Garmin radar power cable
- Garmin radar communication cable (Ethernet) - note I had to cut the
connector off to fit it in and will need to crimp a new RJ45 on at the
bottom.
- Extra cat 6 cable
- 3 conductor flat 14 gauge cable for steaming and fore deck light.

Overall, I am reasonably pleased with the result - it will definitely be
good keeping the cables and halyards separate and I am hopeful that the
noise will be minimal (as long as the conduit doesn't come loose - crosses
fingers).  It did mean drilling a lot of holes in the mast and having a lot
of rivet heads sticking out which are pretty shiny right now, but I am sure
with a year or two they will not stand out too much.

Nathan

~~~
Nathan Post
S/V Wisper
1981 C&C 34 CB
Lynn, MA
___

T

Re: Stus-List Fwd: Source for long stainless/brass screws

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

Jamestown distributers is a really good source for screws. 


thanks,

Danny


From: Mike Taylor via CnC-List Sent: Saturday, May 23, 2020, 7:09 AMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comCc: Mike TaylorSubject: Stus-List Fwd:  Source for long stainless/brass screwsDid you try Brafasco on TerryFox.MikeBegin forwarded message:From: David Morris via CnC-List Date: May 22, 2020 at 9:14:51 PM EDTTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comCc: djmor...@djma-ltd.comSubject: Stus-List Source for long stainless/brass screwsReply-To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comI’m having difficulty finding a supplier of the 6” screws - preferably stainless, but will settle for brass - to re-install the interior and exterior handrails on our C&C 30 MKI. I’m not sure if they are a no. 10 or 12. Recommendations would be much appreciated, preferably in Canada.  David J. Morris, MBAPresident, D.J.. Morris & Associates Ltd.24 St. Paul’s Place, Kingston, ON  K7M 7S3Tel. 613-531-4429email: djmor...@djma-ltd.comMember: Canadian Freelance GuildBlogging at: http://davidmorrisjourneys.wordpress.com/ 



	
		
			

			
		
		
			
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Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 172, Issue 80

[Joe Boyle via CnC-List]

y 22, 2020 at 9:23 AM Bailey White via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> > I?ve learned about butyl tape from my C&C and have been happy with its
> > waterproofing, but I have an issue with butyl where I would welcome
> > advice.
> >
> > I tend to try to be very careful with waterproofing any deck penetrations
> > and end up with a bit of butyl tape exposed around the edges of the
> > hardware, handrail, etc where it meets the deck.  Someone eventually sits
> > on or near the hardware and manages to get a bit of tape on his or more
> > likely, her, clothes.
> >
> > Any advice?
> >
> > Bailey White
> > C&C 36
> > Lake Lanier
> > ___
> >
> > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> > and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> > use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> >
> > --
> Sent from Gmail Mobile
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>
> Message: 4
> Date: Fri, 22 May 2020 21:14:06 -0400
> From: 
> To: 
> Subject: Stus-List Source for long stainless/brass screws
> Message-ID: <00fc01d6309f$751b3920$5f51ab60$@djma-ltd.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> I'm having difficulty finding a supplier of the 6" screws - preferably
> stainless, but will settle for brass - to re-install the interior and
> exterior handrails on our C&C 30 MKI. I'm not sure if they are a no. 10 or
> 12. Recommendations would be much appreciated, preferably in Canada.
>
>
>
> David J. Morris, MBA
> President, D.J. Morris & Associates Ltd.
> 24 St. Paul's Place, Kingston, ON  K7M 7S3
>
> Tel. 613-531-4429
> email:  <mailto:djmor...@djma-ltd.com> djmor...@djma-ltd.com
> Member: Canadian Freelance Guild
>
> Blogging at:  <http://davidmorrisjourneys.wordpress.com/>
> http://davidmorrisjourneys.wordpress.com/
>
>
>
>
>
> --
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>
> Message: 5
> Date: Fri, 22 May 2020 21:33:01 -0400
> From: Josh Muckley 
> To: "C&C List" 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Source for long stainless/brass screws
> Message-ID:
> <
> ca+zacrcbp9ks_3shqu9taqshwtsxh6sukdwz+bqo6m9rxpo...@mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> Screws, 18-8 Stainless Steel, Square-Drive, Number 12 Size, 6" Long
>
> https://www.mcmaster.com/9A633
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
> On Fri, May 22, 2020, 21:14 David Morris via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> wrote:
>
> > I?m having difficulty finding a supplier of the 6? screws - preferably
> > stainless, but will settle for brass - to re-install the interior and
> > exterior handrails on our C&C 30 MKI. I?m not sure if they are a no. 10
> or
> > 12. Recommendations would be much appreciated, preferably in Canada.
> >
> >
> >
> > David J. Morris, MBA
> > President, D.J. Morris & Associates Ltd.
> > 24 St. Paul?s Place, Kingston, ON  K7M 7S3
> >
> > Tel. 613-531-4429
> > email: djmor...@djma-ltd.com
> > Member: Canadian Freelance Guild
> >
> > Blogging at: http://davidmorrisjourneys.wordpress.com/
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > --
> > [image: Avast logo] <https://www.avast.com/antivirus>
> >
> > This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
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> >
> > <#m_8228243513644323890_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
> > ___
> >
> > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> > and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> > use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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Re: Stus-List Butyl tape

[John Conklin via CnC-List]

Don’t see the bed it on Amazon
Few other Colormetrics -GSSI
Link please.

John Conklin
S/V Halcyon
S/V Heartbeat
www.flirtingwithfire.com


On May 22, 2020, at 9:24 AM, Dave Godwin via CnC-List  
wrote:

 This is for Bailey White’s question about removing excess butyl under the 
hardware. I use this Smart Caulk tool found on 
Amazon
 (of course…). Use the black handle caulk remove by slipping the hooked end 
into the caulk and working it around. Here’s the best part. As you start 
removing the butyl, let it form a ball and use that ball to “dab” the little 
bits and pieces that may remain. Those will adhere to the ball and you will not 
see any evidence of caulk.

And I second Bruce Whitmore’s suggestion. I only use Bed-It Butyl Tape which I 
source from this guy (who keeps changing the name of his site…), “How To 
Marine.”  Link.  Read his butyl tape posts and you’ll 
be convinced.

Regards,
Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit

On May 22, 2020, at 8:02 AM, bwhitmore via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

I will back what Dave Goodwin and others have said, and make two more 
observations.  1)  Go with Bed-It Buytl Tape, as it seems to have the same 
properties as the original C&C material, and I find it goes on much quicker 
than stuff in a tube.  Not only that, it doesn't dry out, so that roll will 
last you a long time unless you have major projects ahead of you.

I am 100% sold on butyl.

Bruce Whitmore
1994 C&C 37/40+



Sent from Samsung tablet.


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Re: Stus-List Butyl tape

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

https://shop.marinehowto.com/t/bed-it-tape

On Sat, May 23, 2020, 10:23 John Conklin via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Don’t see the bed it on Amazon
> Few other Colormetrics -GSSI
> Link please.
>
> John Conklin
> S/V Halcyon
> S/V Heartbeat
> www.flirtingwithfire.com
>
>
> On May 22, 2020, at 9:24 AM, Dave Godwin via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>  This is for Bailey White’s question about removing excess butyl under
> the hardware. I use this Smart Caulk tool found on Amazon
>  
> (of
> course…). Use the black handle caulk remove by slipping the hooked end into
> the caulk and working it around. Here’s the best part. As you start
> removing the butyl, let it form a ball and use that ball to “dab” the
> little bits and pieces that may remain. Those will adhere to the ball and
> you will not see any evidence of caulk.
>
> And I second Bruce Whitmore’s suggestion. I only use Bed-It Butyl Tape
> which I source from this guy (who keeps changing the name of his site…),
> “How To Marine.”  Link .  Read his butyl tape
> posts and you’ll be convinced.
>
> Regards,
> Dave Godwin
> 1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
> Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
> Ronin’s Overdue Refit 
>
> On May 22, 2020, at 8:02 AM, bwhitmore via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> I will back what Dave Goodwin and others have said, and make two more
> observations.  1)  Go with Bed-It Buytl Tape, as it seems to have the same
> properties as the original C&C material, and I find it goes on much quicker
> than stuff in a tube.  Not only that, it doesn't dry out, so that roll will
> last you a long time unless you have major projects ahead of you.
>
> I am 100% sold on butyl.
>
> Bruce Whitmore
> 1994 C&C 37/40+
>
>
>
> Sent from Samsung tablet.
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Source for long stainless/brass screws

[Michael Brown via CnC-List]

Try Pacific Fasteners in Toronto.


https://www.pacfast.com/


Mike



Michael Brown
Windburn
C&C 30-1






 From:
 To:
 Sent:   5/22/2020 9:14 PM 
 Subject:   Stus-List Source for long stainless/brass screws 




I’m having difficulty finding a supplier of the 6” screws - preferably 
stainless, but will settle for brass - to re-install the interior and exterior 
handrails on our C&C 30 MKI. I’m not sure if they are a no. 10 or 12. 
Recommendations would be much appreciated, preferably in Canada. 
 
David J. Morris, MBA
President, D.J. Morris & Associates Ltd.
24 St. Paul’s Place, Kingston, ON  K7M 7S3
Tel. 613-531-4429
email: djmor...@djma-ltd.com
Member: Canadian Freelance Guild
Blogging at: http://davidmorrisjourneys.wordpress.com/
 
 

 

 
 
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Re: Stus-List Butyl tape

[John Conklin via CnC-List]

Found it bought it
Replacing few barients with self tailing so that’s first application
Good?

John Conklin
S/V Halcyon
S/V Heartbeat
www.flirtingwithfire.com


On May 23, 2020, at 10:26 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List  
wrote:


https://shop.marinehowto.com/t/bed-it-tape

On Sat, May 23, 2020, 10:23 John Conklin via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Don’t see the bed it on Amazon
Few other Colormetrics -GSSI
Link please.

John Conklin
S/V Halcyon
S/V Heartbeat
www.flirtingwithfire.com


On May 22, 2020, at 9:24 AM, Dave Godwin via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

 This is for Bailey White’s question about removing excess butyl under the 
hardware. I use this Smart Caulk tool found on 
Amazon
 (of course…). Use the black handle caulk remove by slipping the hooked end 
into the caulk and working it around. Here’s the best part. As you start 
removing the butyl, let it form a ball and use that ball to “dab” the little 
bits and pieces that may remain. Those will adhere to the ball and you will not 
see any evidence of caulk.

And I second Bruce Whitmore’s suggestion. I only use Bed-It Butyl Tape which I 
source from this guy (who keeps changing the name of his site…), “How To 
Marine.”  Link.  Read his butyl tape posts and you’ll 
be convinced.

Regards,
Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit

On May 22, 2020, at 8:02 AM, bwhitmore via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

I will back what Dave Goodwin and others have said, and make two more 
observations.  1)  Go with Bed-It Buytl Tape, as it seems to have the same 
properties as the original C&C material, and I find it goes on much quicker 
than stuff in a tube.  Not only that, it doesn't dry out, so that roll will 
last you a long time unless you have major projects ahead of you.

I am 100% sold on butyl.

Bruce Whitmore
1994 C&C 37/40+



Sent from Samsung tablet.


___

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___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
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___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List Butyl tape

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

John, links there. Second one, not first..,,

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 23, 2020, at 11:00 AM, John Conklin via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
>  Found it bought it 
> Replacing few barients with self tailing so that’s first application
> Good?
> 
> John Conklin 
> S/V Halcyon
> S/V Heartbeat
> www.flirtingwithfire.com
> 
> 
>>> On May 23, 2020, at 10:26 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
>> 
>> https://shop.marinehowto.com/t/bed-it-tape
>> 
>>> On Sat, May 23, 2020, 10:23 John Conklin via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> Don’t see the bed it on Amazon 
>>> Few other Colormetrics -GSSI
>>> Link please.
>>> 
>>> John Conklin 
>>> S/V Halcyon
>>> S/V Heartbeat
>>> www.flirtingwithfire.com
>>> 
>>> 
 On May 22, 2020, at 9:24 AM, Dave Godwin via CnC-List 
  wrote:
 
  This is for Bailey White’s question about removing excess butyl under 
 the hardware. I use this Smart Caulk tool found on Amazon (of course…). 
 Use the black handle caulk remove by slipping the hooked end into the 
 caulk and working it around. Here’s the best part. As you start removing 
 the butyl, let it form a ball and use that ball to “dab” the little bits 
 and pieces that may remain. Those will adhere to the ball and you will not 
 see any evidence of caulk.
 
 And I second Bruce Whitmore’s suggestion. I only use Bed-It Butyl Tape 
 which I source from this guy (who keeps changing the name of his site…), 
 “How To Marine.”  Link.  Read his butyl tape posts and you’ll be convinced.
 
 Regards,
 Dave Godwin
 1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
 Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
 Ronin’s Overdue Refit
 
> On May 22, 2020, at 8:02 AM, bwhitmore via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I will back what Dave Goodwin and others have said, and make two more 
> observations.  1)  Go with Bed-It Buytl Tape, as it seems to have the 
> same properties as the original C&C material, and I find it goes on much 
> quicker than stuff in a tube.  Not only that, it doesn't dry out, so that 
> roll will last you a long time unless you have major projects ahead of 
> you. 
> 
> I am 100% sold on butyl.
> 
> Bruce Whitmore 
> 1994 C&C 37/40+
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from Samsung tablet.
> 
 
 ___
 
 Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each 
 and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - 
 use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
 
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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Stus-List Force 10 heater removal

[John Conklin via CnC-List]

Ok I had a chance to visit the boat during  5 straight days of torrential rain  
Here in in Oriental.
Found a pretty good leak at exhaust pipe on the force 10 water running along 
coach roof to circular block  creating a water trap.
Realized it was not only leaking dripping off heater and down wall  but finding 
its way into roof liner  and traveling mid ship leaking from headliner at that 
spot too bottom line - I do not use this heater and could be really bad news 
and cause unseeen damage  if I don’t seal this up. I want it out ! Anyone want 
this baby or ebay or ?? 
As a rookie on fiberglass or epoxy  Curious on  the process for fillIng this 
size  hole that will be left in deck 1 1/2”+-  which also sees foot traffic 
think that’s what happen fee good kicks 
Thanks !!

John Conklin 
S/V Halcyon
S/V Heartbeat
www.flirtingwithfire.com

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Re: Stus-List Butyl tape

[John Conklin via CnC-List]

Ordered thanks !!

John Conklin
S/V Halcyon
S/V Heartbeat
www.flirtingwithfire.com


On May 23, 2020, at 11:14 AM, Dave Godwin via CnC-List  
wrote:

 John, links there. Second one, not first..,,

Sent from my iPhone

On May 23, 2020, at 11:00 AM, John Conklin via CnC-List  
wrote:

 Found it bought it
Replacing few barients with self tailing so that’s first application
Good?

John Conklin
S/V Halcyon
S/V Heartbeat
www.flirtingwithfire.com


On May 23, 2020, at 10:26 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List  
wrote:


https://shop.marinehowto.com/t/bed-it-tape

On Sat, May 23, 2020, 10:23 John Conklin via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Don’t see the bed it on Amazon
Few other Colormetrics -GSSI
Link please.

John Conklin
S/V Halcyon
S/V Heartbeat
www.flirtingwithfire.com


On May 22, 2020, at 9:24 AM, Dave Godwin via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

 This is for Bailey White’s question about removing excess butyl under the 
hardware. I use this Smart Caulk tool found on 
Amazon
 (of course…). Use the black handle caulk remove by slipping the hooked end 
into the caulk and working it around. Here’s the best part. As you start 
removing the butyl, let it form a ball and use that ball to “dab” the little 
bits and pieces that may remain. Those will adhere to the ball and you will not 
see any evidence of caulk.

And I second Bruce Whitmore’s suggestion. I only use Bed-It Butyl Tape which I 
source from this guy (who keeps changing the name of his site…), “How To 
Marine.”  Link.  Read his butyl tape posts and you’ll 
be convinced.

Regards,
Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit

On May 22, 2020, at 8:02 AM, bwhitmore via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

I will back what Dave Goodwin and others have said, and make two more 
observations.  1)  Go with Bed-It Buytl Tape, as it seems to have the same 
properties as the original C&C material, and I find it goes on much quicker 
than stuff in a tube.  Not only that, it doesn't dry out, so that roll will 
last you a long time unless you have major projects ahead of you.

I am 100% sold on butyl.

Bruce Whitmore
1994 C&C 37/40+



Sent from Samsung tablet.


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Re: Stus-List Force 10 heater removal

[Doug Mountjoy via CnC-List]

I would be interested in it. Doug Mountjoysv Rebecca Leah C&C Landfall 39Port 
Orchard yacht club
 Original message From: John Conklin via CnC-List 
 Date: 5/23/20  08:45  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: John Conklin  Subject: 
Stus-List Force 10 heater removal Ok I had a chance to visit the boat during  5 
straight days of torrential rain  Here in in Oriental.Found a pretty good leak 
at exhaust pipe on the force 10 water running along coach roof to circular 
block  creating a water trap.Realized it was not only leaking dripping off 
heater and down wall  but finding its way into roof liner  and traveling mid 
ship leaking from headliner at that spot too bottom line - I do not use this 
heater and could be really bad news and cause unseeen damage  if I don’t seal 
this up. I want it out ! Anyone want this baby or ebay or ?? As a rookie on 
fiberglass or epoxy  Curious on  the process for fillIng this size  hole that 
will be left in deck 1 1/2”+-  which also sees foot traffic think that’s what 
happen fee good kicks Thanks !!John Conklin S/V HalcyonS/V 
Heartbeatwww.flirtingwithfire.com___Thanks
 everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and every one 
is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send 
contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Force 10 heater removal

[John McCrea via CnC-List]

I will take it!

John McCrea 
Talisman
C&C 36
Mystic, CT

Sent

> On May 23, 2020, at 11:45 AM, John Conklin  wrote:
> 
> Ok I had a chance to visit the boat during  5 straight days of torrential 
> rain  Here in in Oriental.
> Found a pretty good leak at exhaust pipe on the force 10 water running along 
> coach roof to circular block  creating a water trap.
> Realized it was not only leaking dripping off heater and down wall  but 
> finding its way into roof liner  and traveling mid ship leaking from 
> headliner at that spot too bottom line - I do not use this heater and could 
> be really bad news and cause unseeen damage  if I don’t seal this up. I want 
> it out ! Anyone want this baby or ebay or ?? 
> As a rookie on fiberglass or epoxy  Curious on  the process for fillIng this 
> size  hole that will be left in deck 1 1/2”+-  which also sees foot traffic 
> think that’s what happen fee good kicks 
> Thanks !!
> 
> John Conklin 
> S/V Halcyon
> S/V Heartbeat
> www.flirtingwithfire.com
> 


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Re: Stus-List speedometer - C&C 35 Mk2

[General Gao via CnC-List]

that is what I am thinking. Would vaseline work?

Thank you,

Bo

On Mon, May 18, 2020 at 3:49 PM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Put some dielectric grease on the connections ;)
>
>
>
> *Joe Della Barba Coquina C&C 35  MK I*
>
> *www.dellabarba.com *
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *General
> Gao via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Monday, May 18, 2020 3:41 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* General Gao 
> *Subject:* [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List speedometer - C&C 35 Mk2
>
>
>
> Reporting back. followed the guide and verified the transmitter had
> resistance of 1787ohms, verified there was VAC output when the paddle was
> turning fast (couldn't get to the 5knots as boat is on land). Decided to
> sand the connectors, and put it back, tested again, and it worked...the
> connectors looked without rust, a bit surprised.
>
>
>
> Thank you everyone for the kind help!
>
>
>
> Stay safe, stay healthy.
>
>
>
> Regards,
>
>
>
> Bo
>
>
>
> On Mon, May 18, 2020 at 11:42 AM General Gao 
> wrote:
>
> thank you everyone. I really appreciate the information. I will go check
> and report back.
>
>
>
> Stay safe!
>
>
>
> Bo
>
>
>
> On Mon, May 18, 2020 at 8:32 AM Ken Heaton via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Yup, that's correct. If there are only two wires coming from
> the paddlewheel transducer, it is likely this 'generator' type as a more
> modern hall effect transducer will have at least three wires (I think).
>
>
>
> Of course a broke wire or bad connection anywhere between the transducer
> and the instrument will cause it all to not work.  We would just pull the
> transducer and connect it directly to the back of the instrument to see
> what happens.
>
>
>
> From the Troubleshooting section (last page) of the pdf I linked:
>
>
>
> TROUBLESHOOTING
>
>
>
> DISPLAY READS ZERO- The problem could be either the transmitter or the
> display. Please follow the proceeding steps to determine cause of the
> problem-
>
>
>
> A. Measure the two wires of the transmitter with an ohm meter for
> resistance value of approximately 2000 ohms (2K ohms). Do not spin the
> paddlewheel.
>
> a. If unit is good, then check paddlewheel for any broken fins or missing
> magnets.
>
> b. If unit is open (infinite resistance) then unit needs replacing.
>
> B. Measure with an AC voltmeter when the paddlewheel is spinning. You
> should get approximately 1.0 VAC at about 5 knots of speed when unloaded
> (not hooked up to display).
>
> INTERMITTENT READINGS- Keep the unit wired as normal and add an AC
> voltmeter to where the input wires of the transmitter are connected. Motor
> or sail as usual-
>
>
>
> A. If an AC voltage is being produced but no speed indication appears on
> display, then the problem is in the display.
>
> B. If readings only occur when voltages are produced, then the paddlewheel
> is not always turning. Clean paddlewheel first and be sure it spins freely,
> and then try again. If the results are the same then paddlewheel may need
> replacing.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Mon, 18 May 2020 at 09:18, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> So if I understand it correctly, the theory of operation for these
> generator style knot meters would simply be a 2 wire system and a voltage
> developed between the two?  I would expect that a simple initial test would
> be for continuity between the two wires with the wheel stopped.  Then spin
> the wheel and check for voltage proportional to the speed of the wheel.
>
>
>
> Josh Muckley
>
> S/V Sea Hawk
>
> 1989 C&C 37+
>
> Solomons, MD
>
>
>
>
>
> On Mon, May 18, 2020, 07:38 Joe Della Barba via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> There are (were) some generator knotmeters. Coquina came with one when
> we bought her. If memory serves, it topped out at 10 or 12 knots and it
> was always fun to peg it :)
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina
>
> On 5/18/2020 5:32 AM, Ken Heaton via CnC-List wrote:
> > Have you looked at this web page?  This takes yo to the manuals for SR
> > Mariner Instruments (since 1973):
> > https://srinstruments.com/manuals#mariner_manuals
> 
> >
> > The only SR Mariner Knotmeter I ever worked on (on a friend's C&C 35
> > Mk.I 1973) was self powered.  In other words, no external power was
> > needed (except for the backlight for the instrument face for night
> > use), the paddle-wheel seemed to be a generator.
> >
> > More info here: https://srinstruments.com/r/manuals/public/MANSELF.pdf
> 
> >
> > Ken H.
> >
>
> _

Re: Stus-List speedometer - C&C 35 Mk2

[Neil Andersen via CnC-List]

I use Vaseline to keep the barnacles and other sea life from sticking to the 
impeller if I forget to pul it out when we tie up after sailing.

 

Sincerely,

Neil 

Neil Andersen 
20691 Jamieson Rd, 

Rock Hall, MD 21661

  neil.eric.ander...@gmail.com

LinkedIn: www.linkedin.com/pub/neil-andersen/0/239/a36/ 
 

+++

Save money and the environment.

Use Century Gothic font and save 30% of your ink

*** Confidential and Privileged ***

This e-mail message and any attachments are for the sole purpose of the 
intended recipient(s) and may contain confidential and privileged information. 
Any unauthorized review, use, disclosure or distribution is prohibited. If you 
are not the intended recipient, please contact the sender by reply e-mail, and 
destroy all copies of the original message and any attachments.

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of General Gao via 
CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, May 23, 2020 12:55 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: General Gao 
Subject: Re: Stus-List speedometer - C&C 35 Mk2

 

that is what I am thinking. Would vaseline work?

 

Thank you,

 

Bo

 

On Mon, May 18, 2020 at 3:49 PM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Put some dielectric grease on the connections ;)

 

Joe Della Barba Coquina C&C 35  MK I

www.dellabarba.com  

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
 ] On Behalf Of General Gao via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, May 18, 2020 3:41 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Cc: General Gao mailto:general.z@gmail.com> >
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List speedometer - C&C 35 Mk2

 

Reporting back. followed the guide and verified the transmitter had resistance 
of 1787ohms, verified there was VAC output when the paddle was turning fast 
(couldn't get to the 5knots as boat is on land). Decided to sand the 
connectors, and put it back, tested again, and it worked...the connectors 
looked without rust, a bit surprised.

 

Thank you everyone for the kind help!

 

Stay safe, stay healthy.

 

Regards,

 

Bo

 

On Mon, May 18, 2020 at 11:42 AM General Gao mailto:general.z@gmail.com> > wrote:

thank you everyone. I really appreciate the information. I will go check and 
report back.

 

Stay safe!

 

Bo

 

On Mon, May 18, 2020 at 8:32 AM Ken Heaton via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Yup, that's correct. If there are only two wires coming from the paddlewheel 
transducer, it is likely this 'generator' type as a more modern hall effect 
transducer will have at least three wires (I think).

 

Of course a broke wire or bad connection anywhere between the transducer and 
the instrument will cause it all to not work.  We would just pull the 
transducer and connect it directly to the back of the instrument to see what 
happens.

 

>From the Troubleshooting section (last page) of the pdf I linked:

 

TROUBLESHOOTING 

 

DISPLAY READS ZERO- The problem could be either the transmitter or the display. 
Please follow the proceeding steps to determine cause of the problem-

 

A. Measure the two wires of the transmitter with an ohm meter for resistance 
value of approximately 2000 ohms (2K ohms). Do not spin the paddlewheel.

a. If unit is good, then check paddlewheel for any broken fins or missing 
magnets.

b. If unit is open (infinite resistance) then unit needs replacing.

B. Measure with an AC voltmeter when the paddlewheel is spinning. You should 
get approximately 1.0 VAC at about 5 knots of speed when unloaded (not hooked 
up to display).

INTERMITTENT READINGS- Keep the unit wired as normal and add an AC voltmeter to 
where the input wires of the transmitter are connected. Motor or sail as usual-

 

A. If an AC voltage is being produced but no speed indication appears on 
display, then the problem is in the display.

B. If readings only occur when voltages are produced, then the paddlewheel is 
not always turning. Clean paddlewheel first and be sure it spins freely, and 
then try again. If the results are the same then paddlewheel may need 
replacing.   

 

 

 

On Mon, 18 May 2020 at 09:18, Josh Muckley via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

So if I understand it correctly, the theory of operation for these generator 
style knot meters would simply be a 2 wire system and a voltage developed 
between the two?  I would expect that a simple initial test would be for 
continuity between the two wires with the wheel stopped.  Then spin the wheel 
and check for voltage proportional to the speed of the wheel.

 

Josh Muckley 

S/V Sea Hawk 

1989 C&C 37+

Solomons, MD 

 

 

On Mon, May 18, 2020, 07:38 Joe Della Barba via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

There are (were) some generator knotmeters. Coquina came with one when 
we bought her. If memory serves, it topped out at 10 or 

Stus-List Diesel Filter

[General Gao via CnC-List]

Hi everyone,

Just wondering, how often do you have to change diesel filters? or how do
you tell it is time to change?

Thank you,

Bo
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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List speedometer - C&C 35 Mk2

[Joe Della Barba via CnC-List]

Dielectric grease is made specifically for electrical use. Any auto 
parts store has it for about $5.


Joe

Coquina

On 5/23/2020 12:54 PM, General Gao via CnC-List wrote:

that is what I am thinking. Would vaseline work?

Thank you,

Bo

On Mon, May 18, 2020 at 3:49 PM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Put some dielectric grease on the connections ;)

*/Joe Della Barba Coquina C&C 35  MK I/*

*/www.dellabarba.com /*

*From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
] *On Behalf Of *General Gao
via CnC-List
*Sent:* Monday, May 18, 2020 3:41 PM
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
*Cc:* General Gao mailto:general.z@gmail.com>>
*Subject:* [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List speedometer - C&C 35 Mk2

Reporting back. followed the guide and verified the transmitter
had resistance of 1787ohms, verified there was VAC output when the
paddle was turning fast (couldn't get to the 5knots as boat is on
land). Decided to sand the connectors, and put it back, tested
again, and it worked...the connectors looked without rust, a bit
surprised.

Thank you everyone for the kind help!

Stay safe, stay healthy.

Regards,

Bo

On Mon, May 18, 2020 at 11:42 AM General Gao
mailto:general.z@gmail.com>> wrote:

thank you everyone. I really appreciate the information. I
will go check and report back.

Stay safe!

Bo

On Mon, May 18, 2020 at 8:32 AM Ken Heaton via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Yup, that's correct. If there are only two wires coming
from the paddlewheel transducer, it is likely this
'generator' type as a more modern hall effect transducer
will have at least three wires (I think).

Of course a broke wire or bad connection anywhere between
the transducer and the instrument will cause it all to not
work.  We would just pull the transducer and connect it
directly to the back of the instrument to see what happens.

From the Troubleshooting section (last page) of the pdf I
linked:

TROUBLESHOOTING

DISPLAY READS ZERO- The problem could be either the
transmitter or the display. Please follow the proceeding
steps to determine cause of the problem-

A. Measure the two wires of the transmitter with an
ohm meter for resistance value of approximately 2000
ohms (2K ohms). Do not spin the paddlewheel.

a. If unit is good, then check paddlewheel for any
broken fins or missing magnets.

b. If unit is open (infinite resistance) then unit
needs replacing.

B. Measure with an AC voltmeter when the paddlewheel
is spinning. You should get approximately 1.0 VAC at
about 5 knots of speed when unloaded (not hooked up to
display).

INTERMITTENT READINGS- Keep the unit wired as normal and
add an AC voltmeter to where the input wires of the
transmitter are connected. Motor or sail as usual-

A. If an AC voltage is being produced but no speed
indication appears on display, then the problem is in
the display.

B. If readings only occur when voltages are produced,
then the paddlewheel is not always turning. Clean
paddlewheel first and be sure it spins freely, and
then try again. If the results are the same then
paddlewheel may need replacing.

On Mon, 18 May 2020 at 09:18, Josh Muckley via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

So if I understand it correctly, the theory of
operation for these generator style knot meters would
simply be a 2 wire system and a voltage developed
between the two?  I would expect that a simple initial
test would be for continuity between the two wires
with the wheel stopped.  Then spin the wheel and check
for voltage proportional to the speed of the wheel.

Josh Muckley

S/V Sea Hawk

1989 C&C 37+

Solomons, MD

On Mon, May 18, 2020, 07:38 Joe Della Barba via
CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

There are (were) some generator knotmeters.
Coquina came with one when
we bought her. If memory serves, it topped out at
10 or 12 knots and it
was always fun to peg it :)

Re: Stus-List Favorite deck cleaner/recipe?

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

I am with Josh on this one.  I find that the sun does a great job of keeping my 
decks white.  I keep some Scrubbing Bubbles on board, bur rarely use it.  Given 
time, the sun will bleach most stains, shoe marks, etc.  I use the cleaner for 
stuff that accumulates in the spring from trees and in the cockpit drains and 
places the sun tends not to get to.  During the summer at the mooring, I rarely 
need it.   Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT



> On May 22, 2020, at 12:46 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I have been very successful with a scrub brush and garden hose nozzle.  We 
> run public sailing charters so keeping the boat clean is a pretty high 
> priority.  Between the the birds and the pollen I'm down there everyday 
> before the first customer arrives.  I pre-wet the deck all over and then 
> circle back and spray clean.  That which needs a little more gets the brush.  
> I'm a mix of OEM gel-coat and kiwi grip.  If a detergent is absolutely 
> necessary I tend towards simple green.  If stain fighting is a must I'll turn 
> to straight but judicious bleach.  We had a customer spill red wine all over 
> some control lines, gel-coat, and kiwi grip.  We rinsed it promptly but a 
> very large purple stain persisted.  They were excruciatingly apologetic but I 
> told them that the birds stain the boat all the time and that they shouldn't 
> worry about it.  By the following weekend all traces of the stain had been 
> bleached out by the sun with absolutely no additional effort or environmental 
> impact on my part.  Yes various cleaners may get the deck an additional bit 
> cleaner than water and scrubbing but in a matter of days the elements bring 
> it right back to baseline.
> 
> I do suggest considering the use of wood's wax.  If nothing else it leaves a 
> nice touch to the surfaces which then also seem to not chalk as much.  It is 
> supposed to protect and make cleaning easier though I haven't had a side by 
> side control boat for scientific evaluation.
> 
> Josh Muckley 
> S/V Sea Hawk 
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD 
> 
> On Fri, May 22, 2020, 11:43 David Risch via CnC-List  > wrote:
> That time of year in the NE...
> 
> Sent from my Android. Please forgive typos. Thank you.
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

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Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Force 10 heater removal

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Fiberglass repair videos are provided by Jamestown Distributors and/or
Boatworks Today.

-In general you'll want to epoxy a backer on the bottom of the deck to hold
the filler in place.  A piece of G10 might be a good choice.  1/8th inch
would probably be thick enough but thicker would be fine too.
-With the backer epoxied in place remove the core all around the sides of
hole.  Go as far back as possible.  Unless this area has already been
filled out with epoxy.
-Wet the entire cavity with unthickened epoxy.  You can inject with a
syringe up in the cavity and then use a brush to spread that which runs
back into the "hole".  If you have too much use the syringe to suck out the
extra.  Give the epoxy a chance to "kick" but don't wait so long that it
cures.
-Inject thickened epoxy (consistenc of peanut butter up into the now wetted
cavity.  Thickened epoxy in the tube is available as thiox? and Six10.  Or
you can make your own.  If you are not using a fill material such as wood
then just pump the hole full of thickened epoxy.  Be careful to use really
long cure times so that it doesn't overheat and cause a runaway reaction.
-If you want a filler then just smooth the epoxy into a vertical plane
along the edges of the hole.  This is where you would pick up if this step
was already done during the chimney installation.
-Select a filler material or none at all. Cousa board is a fiberglass
sponge type material that seems to be a good choice.  Cut it to fit and
install in the hole while the previous epoxy is still at least tacky but
less cured is fine too.
-soak down the filler with un-thickened epoxy and let it cure.
-with a grinder, feather the edges of the whole 4 inches back.
-Cut fiberglass cloth in concentric circular shapes such that they fill the
feathered area.  Each layer will layup as 1/16 inch thick so cut each one
accordingly (appropriately 1" shorter radius for each layer.
-MASK!
-brush on some epoxy then apply the smallest bottom layer which should
extend about 1" over the joint.  Brush more on until the whole thing is
clear and evenly wetted with epoxy.
-allow it to kick for a few minutes.
-Repeat for the remaining layers.
-let it all fully cure.
-wash off the amine blush with soap water and a scrubby pad
-sand flush with a DA or orbital sander
-if you need to add thickness to level the deck area then you can fill
depressions with thickened epoxy or if the whole thing is deep you can add
another layer of glass.
-cure, clean, sand, leave with 80 grit for a tooth for the top coat.
-easiest non-skid is probably gonna be kiwi-grip.

I probably forgot something along the way.  Sorry.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD



On Sat, May 23, 2020, 11:46 John Conklin via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Ok I had a chance to visit the boat during  5 straight days of torrential
> rain  Here in in Oriental.
> Found a pretty good leak at exhaust pipe on the force 10 water running
> along coach roof to circular block  creating a water trap.
> Realized it was not only leaking dripping off heater and down wall  but
> finding its way into roof liner  and traveling mid ship leaking from
> headliner at that spot too bottom line - I do not use this heater and could
> be really bad news and cause unseeen damage  if I don’t seal this up. I
> want it out ! Anyone want this baby or ebay or ??
> As a rookie on fiberglass or epoxy  Curious on  the process for fillIng
> this size  hole that will be left in deck 1 1/2”+-  which also sees foot
> traffic think that’s what happen fee good kicks
> Thanks !!
>
> John Conklin
> S/V Halcyon
> S/V Heartbeat
> www.flirtingwithfire.com
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Diesel Filter

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

I rarely change mine.  I find that I'm more likely to cause a problem by
messing with them than leaving them alone.  The engine mounted filter is 2
micron IIRC and the engine can draw up to ~ 1 gallon per hour.  The
upstream Racor can be 2,10,or 30 micron and is rated at 15 gallon per
hour.  Many people will run a 10 or 30 micron to get the big chunks... I
run a 2 micron to protect the engine mounted filter.  Some people worry
that that will cause too much head loss and poor engine performance.  I say
that with a design flow rate ~15x that of the engine consumption you would
have to be at filter end of life or have a sever fouling incident that was
going to shut down the engine one way or another.

I run a suction pressure gage on the racor and monitor how it changes over
time.  If the engine has to start sucking harder then it tells me that the
filter is getting fouled.  I keep spares but typically some other fuel
system maintenance is going to admit air in the system before the gage
tells me it is time.  I probably got better than 4 years out of the last
one and the only reason I changed it was because it I was doing other fuel
system work.

On Yanmar engines the bleed screws on the engine mounted filters are
notorious for stripping and/or leaking.  I don't touch them.  I vent at the
banjo fitting on the high pressure injector pump.  If you have copper
washers then you would have to replace the washers at this time.  See how
changing the fuel filter just messes everything up?!  If you replace the
copper washers with seal washers then you can reuse them successfully many
times.  Videos below show suction pressure gage mod, seal washer mod, quick
and easy fuel venting mod, and finally the seal washer venting
location/method.

https://youtu.be/H-GI38vE4hQ

https://youtu.be/F7KD1_EZmU4

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD




On Sat, May 23, 2020, 12:59 General Gao via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Hi everyone,
>
> Just wondering, how often do you have to change diesel filters? or how do
> you tell it is time to change?
>
> Thank you,
>
> Bo
> ___
>
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> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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>
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Re: Stus-List Diesel Filter

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

Bo,

Much will depend on how much you use your engine, how clean your tank is, and 
the quality of fuel you are using. 

When the Enterprise came down from New York, she was practically motoring the 
entire time, adding many hours of engine use in three weeks. For that trip, the 
filters were changed two times. 

For normal use, like Josh, I have a fine raycor filter and change that maybe 
once every several years - or if I can see notable clogging or the engine 
stalls. The filter on the engine Itself I change once every three years or so. 

I used to do oil changes and oil filter changes every fall before laying up for 
the winter. Since there is no real layup season down here in Florida, I still 
keep to my fall schedule. 

My engine (Beta 30) came with a maintenance schedule based on engine hours. If 
you have that for your engine, that should be an excellent guide. 

All the best, 

Edd

———-
Edd M. Schillay
Captain of the “Starship Enterprise”
C&C 37+ | Sail No.: NCC-1701-B
Venice Yacht Club | Venice Island, FL
www.StarshipSailing.com
———-
914.774.9767   | Mobile
———-
Sent via iPhone 11 Pro
iPhone. iTypos. iApologize


On May 23, 2020, at 12:59 PM, General Gao via CnC-List  
wrote:


Hi everyone, 

Just wondering, how often do you have to change diesel filters? or how do you 
tell it is time to change?

Thank you,

Bo
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Re: Stus-List Diesel Filter

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

Hi Edd- How did you know you needed to change the filter twice on the trip 
down?  Were there symptoms or just being cautious?  Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT



> On May 23, 2020, at 4:00 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Bo,
> 
> Much will depend on how much you use your engine, how clean your tank is, and 
> the quality of fuel you are using. 
> 
> When the Enterprise came down from New York, she was practically motoring the 
> entire time, adding many hours of engine use in three weeks. For that trip, 
> the filters were changed two times. 
> 
> For normal use, like Josh, I have a fine raycor filter and change that maybe 
> once every several years - or if I can see notable clogging or the engine 
> stalls. The filter on the engine Itself I change once every three years or 
> so. 
> 
> I used to do oil changes and oil filter changes every fall before laying up 
> for the winter. Since there is no real layup season down here in Florida, I 
> still keep to my fall schedule. 
> 
> My engine (Beta 30) came with a maintenance schedule based on engine hours. 
> If you have that for your engine, that should be an excellent guide. 
> 
> All the best, 
> 
> Edd
> 
> ———-
> Edd M. Schillay
> Captain of the “Starship Enterprise”
> C&C 37+ | Sail No.: NCC-1701-B
> Venice Yacht Club | Venice Island, FL
> www.StarshipSailing.com
> ———-
> 914.774.9767   | Mobile
> ———-
> Sent via iPhone 11 Pro
> iPhone. iTypos. iApologize
> 
> 
> On May 23, 2020, at 12:59 PM, General Gao via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> Hi everyone, 
> 
> Just wondering, how often do you have to change diesel filters? or how do you 
> tell it is time to change?
> 
> Thank you,
> 
> Bo
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

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Re: Stus-List Diesel Filter

[Joe Della Barba via CnC-List]

I have a vacuum gauge on my filter. It makes it pretty obvious when it 
is getting clogged. They don't have to be on the filter, you can add a 
hose and put one where you can see it in the cockpit.



Joe

Coquina


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Re: Stus-List Diesel Filter

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

David,

I wasn’t on board, but I think one was a precaution and the other because of a 
stall-out. 

All the best, 

Edd

———-
Edd M. Schillay
Captain of the “Starship Enterprise”
C&C 37+ | Sail No.: NCC-1701-B
Venice Yacht Club | Venice Island, FL
www.StarshipSailing.com
———-
914.774.9767   | Mobile
———-
Sent via iPhone 11 Pro
iPhone. iTypos. iApologize


On May 23, 2020, at 5:02 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List  
wrote:

Hi Edd- How did you know you needed to change the filter twice on the trip 
down?  Were there symptoms or just being cautious?  Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT



> On May 23, 2020, at 4:00 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Bo,
> 
> Much will depend on how much you use your engine, how clean your tank is, and 
> the quality of fuel you are using. 
> 
> When the Enterprise came down from New York, she was practically motoring the 
> entire time, adding many hours of engine use in three weeks. For that trip, 
> the filters were changed two times. 
> 
> For normal use, like Josh, I have a fine raycor filter and change that maybe 
> once every several years - or if I can see notable clogging or the engine 
> stalls. The filter on the engine Itself I change once every three years or 
> so. 
> 
> I used to do oil changes and oil filter changes every fall before laying up 
> for the winter. Since there is no real layup season down here in Florida, I 
> still keep to my fall schedule. 
> 
> My engine (Beta 30) came with a maintenance schedule based on engine hours. 
> If you have that for your engine, that should be an excellent guide. 
> 
> All the best, 
> 
> Edd
> 
> ———-
> Edd M. Schillay
> Captain of the “Starship Enterprise”
> C&C 37+ | Sail No.: NCC-1701-B
> Venice Yacht Club | Venice Island, FL
> www.StarshipSailing.com
> ———-
> 914.774.9767   | Mobile
> ———-
> Sent via iPhone 11 Pro
> iPhone. iTypos. iApologize
> 
> 
> On May 23, 2020, at 12:59 PM, General Gao via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> Hi everyone, 
> 
> Just wondering, how often do you have to change diesel filters? or how do you 
> tell it is time to change?
> 
> Thank you,
> 
> Bo
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

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Re: Stus-List Source for long stainless/brass screws

[schiller via CnC-List]

McFeely's.  6" Stainless Steel, square drive. Hope you are sitting down 
when you see the price but they are top quality.


Neil Schiller
1983 C&C 35-3, #028, "Grace"
Whitehall, Michigan
WLYC
Got out for our shake down with our new UK Main and Jib today!

On 5/22/2020 9:14 PM, David Morris via CnC-List wrote:


I’m having difficulty finding a supplier of the 6” screws - preferably 
stainless, but will settle for brass - to re-install the interior and 
exterior handrails on our C&C 30 MKI. I’m not sure if they are a no. 
10 or 12. Recommendations would be much appreciated, preferably in 
Canada.


David J. Morris, MBA
President, D.J. Morris & Associates Ltd.
24 St. Paul’s Place, Kingston, ON  K7M 7S3**

Tel. 613-531-4429
email: djmor...@djma-ltd.com 
Member: Canadian Freelance Guild

Blogging at: http://davidmorrisjourneys.wordpress.com/




Avast logo   

This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
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Re: Stus-List Force 10 heater removal

[John Conklin via CnC-List]

Josh,
Many Thanks for your detailed response! Much appreciated. I am definitely gonna 
put the Netflix series  on hold while I figure out how this all works. 😊

Ciao !

John Conklin
S/V Halcyon


From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, May 23, 2020 2:44 PM
To: C&C List
Cc: Josh Muckley
Subject: Re: Stus-List Force 10 heater removal

Fiberglass repair videos are provided by Jamestown Distributors and/or 
Boatworks Today.

-In general you'll want to epoxy a backer on the bottom of the deck to hold the 
filler in place.  A piece of G10 might be a good choice.  1/8th inch would 
probably be thick enough but thicker would be fine too.
-With the backer epoxied in place remove the core all around the sides of hole. 
 Go as far back as possible.  Unless this area has already been filled out with 
epoxy.
-Wet the entire cavity with unthickened epoxy.  You can inject with a syringe 
up in the cavity and then use a brush to spread that which runs back into the 
"hole".  If you have too much use the syringe to suck out the extra.  Give the 
epoxy a chance to "kick" but don't wait so long that it cures.
-Inject thickened epoxy (consistenc of peanut butter up into the now wetted 
cavity.  Thickened epoxy in the tube is available as thiox? and Six10.  Or you 
can make your own.  If you are not using a fill material such as wood then just 
pump the hole full of thickened epoxy.  Be careful to use really long cure 
times so that it doesn't overheat and cause a runaway reaction.
-If you want a filler then just smooth the epoxy into a vertical plane along 
the edges of the hole.  This is where you would pick up if this step was 
already done during the chimney installation.
-Select a filler material or none at all. Cousa board is a fiberglass sponge 
type material that seems to be a good choice.  Cut it to fit and install in the 
hole while the previous epoxy is still at least tacky but less cured is fine 
too.
-soak down the filler with un-thickened epoxy and let it cure.
-with a grinder, feather the edges of the whole 4 inches back.
-Cut fiberglass cloth in concentric circular shapes such that they fill the 
feathered area.  Each layer will layup as 1/16 inch thick so cut each one 
accordingly (appropriately 1" shorter radius for each layer.
-MASK!
-brush on some epoxy then apply the smallest bottom layer which should extend 
about 1" over the joint.  Brush more on until the whole thing is clear and 
evenly wetted with epoxy.
-allow it to kick for a few minutes.
-Repeat for the remaining layers.
-let it all fully cure.
-wash off the amine blush with soap water and a scrubby pad
-sand flush with a DA or orbital sander
-if you need to add thickness to level the deck area then you can fill 
depressions with thickened epoxy or if the whole thing is deep you can add 
another layer of glass.
-cure, clean, sand, leave with 80 grit for a tooth for the top coat.
-easiest non-skid is probably gonna be kiwi-grip.

I probably forgot something along the way.  Sorry.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD



On Sat, May 23, 2020, 11:46 John Conklin via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Ok I had a chance to visit the boat during  5 straight days of torrential rain  
Here in in Oriental.
Found a pretty good leak at exhaust pipe on the force 10 water running along 
coach roof to circular block  creating a water trap.
Realized it was not only leaking dripping off heater and down wall  but finding 
its way into roof liner  and traveling mid ship leaking from headliner at that 
spot too bottom line - I do not use this heater and could be really bad news 
and cause unseeen damage  if I don’t seal this up. I want it out ! Anyone want 
this baby or ebay or ??
As a rookie on fiberglass or epoxy  Curious on  the process for fillIng this 
size  hole that will be left in deck 1 1/2”+-  which also sees foot traffic 
think that’s what happen fee good kicks
Thanks !!

John Conklin
S/V Halcyon
S/V Heartbeat
www.flirtingwithfire.com

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Re: Stus-List Diesel Filter

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

I run a 2 micron in my primary Racor as Josh mentioned and on the advice of
the teacher of a 'small marine diesel engine class' I took. I never wait
for the engine to stall before changing and I do not have a guage. What I
do have and maintain is a clean tank and use biobor religiously. I change
my primary annually or before a big offshore trip, for peace of mind. Hell
of a lot easier to use a 2 micron in the primary and leave the downstream 2
micron secondary engine mounted filter in place. I top off the primary
Racor with Diesel when I put it back together so I never have to bleed.



On Sat, May 23, 2020, 2:31 PM Edd Schillay via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> David,
>
> I wasn’t on board, but I think one was a precaution and the other because
> of a stall-out.
>
> All the best,
>
> Edd
>
> ———-
> Edd M. Schillay
> Captain of the “Starship Enterprise”
> C&C 37+ | Sail No.: NCC-1701-B
> Venice Yacht Club | Venice Island, FL
> www.StarshipSailing.com
> ———-
> 914.774.9767   | Mobile
> ———-
> Sent via iPhone 11 Pro
> iPhone. iTypos. iApologize
>
>
> On May 23, 2020, at 5:02 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Hi Edd- How did you know you needed to change the filter twice on the
> trip down?  Were there symptoms or just being cautious?  Dave
>
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C&C 34+
> New London, CT
>
> 
>
> On May 23, 2020, at 4:00 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Bo,
>
> Much will depend on how much you use your engine, how clean your tank is,
> and the quality of fuel you are using.
>
> When the Enterprise came down from New York, she was practically motoring
> the entire time, adding many hours of engine use in three weeks. For that
> trip, the filters were changed two times.
>
> For normal use, like Josh, I have a fine raycor filter and change that
> maybe once every several years - or if I can see notable clogging or the
> engine stalls. The filter on the engine Itself I change once every three
> years or so.
>
> I used to do oil changes and oil filter changes every fall before laying
> up for the winter. Since there is no real layup season down here in
> Florida, I still keep to my fall schedule.
>
> My engine (Beta 30) came with a maintenance schedule based on engine
> hours. If you have that for your engine, that should be an excellent guide.
>
> All the best,
>
> Edd
>
> ———-
> Edd M. Schillay
> Captain of the “Starship Enterprise”
> C&C 37+ | Sail No.: NCC-1701-B
> Venice Yacht Club | Venice Island, FL
> www.StarshipSailing.com
> ———-
> 914.774.9767   | Mobile
> ———-
> Sent via iPhone 11 Pro
> iPhone. iTypos. iApologize
>
>
> On May 23, 2020, at 12:59 PM, General Gao via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> 
> Hi everyone,
>
> Just wondering, how often do you have to change diesel filters? or how do
> you tell it is time to change?
>
> Thank you,
>
> Bo
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> ___
>
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> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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